How shingles are attached. Installation of Metrotile roof tiles

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It will not be a secret for anyone that one of the most popular and, no less important, high-quality materials used for roofing is a ceramic tile roof. Thanks to this natural covering, the living conditions in the house remain comfortable at any time of the year, both in summer and in winter. Moreover, the assortment of material profiles is wide, the color palette is also varied. It is also a well-known fact that the device of a ceramic tile roof is possible on those roofs that have the most complex shapes and curved planes, and therefore the popularity of the coating in the construction of country cottages is only increasing.

Nevertheless, the installation process should be approached extremely carefully, since ceramics is a rather fragile material, and the very considerable weight of ceramic tiles only complicates the work on its device.

That is why, before proceeding directly to the installation work, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with such material as ceramic tiles, the characteristics of which require a special approach. So, it is recommended to apply the coating on those roofs, the roof slope of which is from 10 to 90 degrees. If there are slopes with an angle of 10 to 22 degrees, then it is necessary to lay an additional waterproofing layer, usually represented by a modified roll coating. If the tiles are laid on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then it must be additionally secured with screws. In addition, for a reinforced frame must be made, especially for which the surface must be equipped and the installation technology corresponding to the profile must be selected.

Laying the rafter system and roof pie

When a roof is equipped with ceramic tiles, it is important to correctly install the supporting structure, which consists, first of all, in strengthening the rafter legs, since the load on the roof covering is 40 - 60 kilograms per 1 m². Therefore, a well-dried wood (maximum 15% moisture) should be used as the material for the rafters. The cross-section of the timber should be 50x150, and the timber with a cross-section of 60x180 will help to further strengthen the strength of the structure. When calculating the distance between the rafter legs, it should be remembered that the longer they are, the less there should be a step between them.

After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to equip a heater equipped with a vapor barrier. Tightness will be given by construction tape, which must be glued to the material. The rafter end is equipped with a counter-lattice, which provides a ventilation gap of 50 millimeters between the insulation and waterproofing layer, due to which the space under the roof is provided with normal air access. After that, waterproofing must be laid on the counter-lattice and the lathing, which is the basis for the roofing, must be nailed perpendicularly to the rafters.

So, the laying of ceramic tiles is invariably accompanied by the installation of the lathing, which is very important in the construction of the roof. It is based on a wooden beam with a cross section of 40x40 or 40x50 millimeters. The width of the board of the eaves, which should fit 20-30 millimeters higher than the rest, can be 100 millimeters. Thus, the laying of the tiles on the slope will be flat, and the space under the roof will be ventilated.

Then it is necessary to calculate the step of stuffing the material onto the rafter legs. The easiest way to do this is to subtract the laying overlap from the width of the tile. The indicator will be approximately 310 - 345 millimeters, and the width of the tiles is 400 millimeters. The marking for the rows should be carried out with a cord attached to the counter-lattice.

Laying ceramic tiles

When working with a material such as ceramic tiles, the sizes and types of which directly affect the installation technology, you should know the varieties of this coating.

Today the construction market offers the following options:

flat roof tiles. It should be laid from the bottom up, and you can immediately have 2 - 3 layers;
grooved shingles. Fits from left to right;
groove tiles. Laying starts from the eaves and works upward.

The choice of roofing for a bath is a question that is both simple and complex at the same time. Even a large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception, each bath owner is trying to find his own solution. And we do not have our goal to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their opinion - there is no perfect roof, just as there is no one, absolutely bad, each has strengths and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and in the complexity of installation.

The most prestigious and complex are tile coverings, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings, the difference in price by brand may differ factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Variants of coverings with metal and flexible tiles are most often found in bath coverings, and we will dwell on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with the brief characteristics of the coating.

Prices for metal shingles

metal roof tiles

Dignity

Cheapness, quick installation, a wide range of colors and geometric shapes. You can also mention durability, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are made with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6 ÷ 7 years the coating will have to be repaired or changed. Conscientious licensed manufacturers for elite brands of products give a guarantee of 25 years or more.

disadvantages

Noises during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical, in the bath, no one is going to sleep in a sensitive sleep. And if an attic is made on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - for baths, metal tiles are an excellent roof covering.

It is necessary to transport metal tiles only in a horizontal position, the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Carefully unload the roof, transfer sheets only in an upright position, do not allow sharp bends.

We will describe the most difficult method of installing metal shingles - with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use of the attic space, you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most of the baths have the simplest gable roof types, it does not take much time to check their dimensions.

How to do it? First, you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system, the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the extreme rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted, the deflections are corrected while nailing the battens.

Step 2. If possible, treat all wooden elements of the rafter system with antiseptic agents of complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety performance. For a bath, this is an important factor.

Step 3. Laying waterproofing.

It will protect the insulation layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles, water droplets can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-shielding performance. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause them to deteriorate prematurely. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected with a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls, during installation you need to follow the markings, lines are drawn on the front surface. Simple bath roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Begin waterproofing just near the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and fix it with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of the condensate drainage, it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.

The chimney is processed - proceed with the waterproofing of the slopes. Lay the rolls from the bottom up, fix them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow significant sagging of the material; in no case should it touch the mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50 × 50 mm counter battens.

Such a device increases the efficiency of natural ventilation between the roofing and the battens. Some builders skip this operation, they believe that there are enough gaps between the crate and the covering sheets for ventilation. Both methods have the right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing.

Step 4.

Nail wind boards along the eaves, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For the lathing, you can use boards with a thickness of 30 mm and a width of 100 mm or strips of 30 × 50 mm. The first board or rail from the eaves should be one centimeter thicker than the rest to increase the strength of fixing the sheets and prevent them from being blown up by strong gusts of wind. The step of the lathing should be equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

Lathing for metal tiles - photo

Nail the first strip at the eaves, check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a marriage. In order to speed up the process of nailing the lathing, you need to cut off several strips along the length of the wave step, they will be used as a template. There is a second method of speeding up the work - beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice with a rope with blue at the desired distance. Follow these lines when nailing the battens. The ridge must have slats, the distance of the slats from the ridge cannot exceed ten centimeters. The slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roof covering.

The wavelength of metal shingles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet, select the shingles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climatic zone. Around the perimeter of the chimney, you need to make a continuous crate with a width of about 20-25 centimeters.

Step 5. Chimney apron installation.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing; their list also includes metal abutment strips for the chimney. They look like flat plates, you need to cut out the technological bends yourself, taking into account the size of the chimney.

Measure the width of the lower part of the chimney, beat off this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the angle of the exit of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Do not be afraid to make a mistake, while fixing the element, the corner will align to the existing dimensions.

Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall of the brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron, through which the water will go into the collectors. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, the upper part is sealed last.

In order to exclude the ingress of water through the stacks of the chimney under the roofing, it is recommended to drown the side strips in the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact of the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. A grinder with a diamond disc cuts a line (strobe) at the marked place. The saw cut must be cleaned of dust and rinsed. The folded edge of the strip is inserted into the strobe and sealed with silicone along its entire length. This should be done around the entire perimeter of the brick chimney. The planks are screwed with countersunk screws to the roof lathing. The junctions are the most dangerous from the point of view of leaks, very carefully perform all operations to seal them.

The outer apron for sealing the chimney is installed after laying the metal tile. Some masters do not want to install an internal apron, we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two or three hours, this is not the time, due to the savings of which, the entire roof of the bath can be put at additional risk.

Step 5. Installation of hooks for the drainage system.

The hooks should be fixed even before the installation of the metal shingle drip, this is very important. Cornice strips can be installed immediately after the hooks.

Important. The bottom of the eaves should be slightly lowered into the groove. Otherwise, with strong gusts of wind, rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be supplied after the installation of the metal tile.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The total slope of the gutter should be at least three millimeters per meter of length, mark on each holder for bending lines in the desired place.

Let's look at an example how to do this. Let's say the length of the bath roof slope is 6 meters, the slope between the extreme holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Place all hooks in a row and line up the ends. On the first mark the bend point, and on the last mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the points with a line, each hook will have a bend mark on it. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during attachment they do not change places. Do not be upset if during the bends it is not possible to maintain accuracy up to a millimeter, the gutter itself will eventually fall into place.

Step 6. An opening for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter, the width of the opening depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a metal hacksaw. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the groove with the metal tabs to the holders. To increase the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and is secured by the bend of the metal tongue.

Step 7. On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to remove the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensate will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.

Step 8. Sheets of metal tiles are raised to the roof one at a time, you can use wooden logs installed from the ground with an emphasis on the beginning of the slope.

If the bath is two-story, then tarpaulin belts should be used for lifting.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.

If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, put the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1 ÷ 2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end finishing element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, as needed per 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the crate at least two centimeters.

In the lower part of the fastening sheet is made in each deflection of the wave, then the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it goes under the first. This should be borne in mind and do not screw the screws on the extreme waves of metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, feet should be placed only in places where the wave bends.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without undershooting or pinching. The rubber washer should press firmly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9. Installation of skate strips.

They can be flat or semicircular and are equipped with end caps of the corresponding profile. Lay the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters, fix to the metal tile with ridge screws.

Step 10. Installation of end strips.

Align the ends, all battens should be in one line. The planks are fixed to the windshield on one side and to the roofing on the other.

If a metal sandwich pipe is used for the chimney in the bath, then for its exit to the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment - a rubber outlet. Its outlet diameter changes by cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How the outlet of a metal pipe is sealed

Step, no.	Description	Illustration
Step 1	Mark the chimney outlet on the roof, cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and fix it to the battens or battens with metal strips
Step 3	Attach the outlet base to the metal tile profile and fold it to fit
Step 4	On the underside of the outlet, apply a layer of sealant, install the outlet in place and fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the fixture should be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the flue pipe

If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from the one described above, only the appearance and engineering of the ventilation cap are different.

The final "touch" is the snow holders. It is recommended to place them in areas with a large snow cover, they protect the weir systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave only above the crate. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and battens. They are needed for high-strength screw bolts, snow holders must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to mount the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retainer tubes are inserted into the holes in the brackets.

Snow guard prices

snow holders

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing shingles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible shingles occupy a worthy place, this is a coating for universal use, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or broken roofs.

In terms of price, the material belongs to the middle category. Of course, the range of prices among various brands and manufacturers of shingles can be significant, but according to the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All advertising brochures of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of colors, but also the shape of the "petals" of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers gives photos of roofs with soft tiles after 5 ÷ 6 years of operation. Do you know why? And because during this time, enough dust accumulates between the particles of the crumb for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating, some people may like it - a real "retro-blood". Let it be pleasant, but mosses and lichens "do not like" the roof itself, the root system of plants at an accelerated rate destroys the base of the soft tile. No "modified" bitumen and nonwovens can withstand the effects of wildlife. This means that it is time to save money for a complete replacement of the roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work in the "long box", after a few years the plywood will start to deteriorate, the top veneer will peel off. Expensive plywood will also have to be replaced. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the crate, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for cleaning moss, but they simultaneously "clean" the surface from chips and part of bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is also a more expensive version of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
The distance between the rafters of the lathing, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the lathing materials, depending on the distance between the rafter legs. The most advantageous is the use of thinner slabs, laid on a step crate of unedged boards. So the strength can be adjusted independently, and the price of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will stop at this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its nodes. Flexible roof structures are much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, and this is an additional load. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters with a tensioned rope. Deflections were found - make marks in these places and eliminate them while laying the stepped lathing. The distance between the lathing boards is 20-30 centimeters.

Step 2. Start nailing down the OSB boards.

The base for shingles - solid sheathing

Baths, as a rule, are small in size and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of material cuts, which means time and quality. Plates can be fastened with ordinary nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long, there is a desire to suffer and pay extra money for these torments - fix the plates with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy around the need to leave a gap between the plates, they say, it will compensate for thermal expansion.

Don't believe it. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the board if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, first of all. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter, by which the plate can really expand, are crumpled at the edges without any problems. Try to keep the plates as flat as possible in one plane. But a run of a few millimeters should not upset you, flexible shingles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.

Step 3. Fasten the gutter hooks.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph 5 of the section "Rules and step-by-step instructions for the installation of metal tiles." And the general algorithm for installing the spillway system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4. Install metal drippers on the eaves overhang, fasten them with roofing nails at intervals of approximately 15 centimeters. It is much easier to hammer nails into the metal with a special hammer, it has a sharp tooth, with which holes are first punched in the sheet and only after that the nail is hammered. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5. Installation of shingles must be started from the chimney, lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is implemented as a kit. We strongly advise you to put the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves. It is inexpensive, but it will bring a lot of benefits. Width is approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and stick it carefully, do not bend, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm, if the barrier does not adhere well, use a special liquid bitumen mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it off, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. You can additionally fix the lining carpet with studs with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the pitch is 25 ÷ 30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15 °, then it is better to lay the underlay on all slopes. The material is laid from the bottom up, the overlaps are sealed with bitumen mastic. On the skate, the barrier must be laid in all cases.

One more point. If the shingle profile has deep cutouts such as jazz, tail, trio, then the underlay should be applied to the entire roof.

Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the studs is about twenty centimeters, do not forget to overlap the slats. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, and the nails should be staggered.

Step 7. Roof slope markings. On the lining carpet, parallel horizontal lines should be beaten off with a rope with blue, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. Such a mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing shingles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of skewing the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to keep the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to observe it on difficult sections of the roof, to correct the incorrect dimensions of the slope.

Step 8. Put a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney, be sure to coat the joints with bituminous mastic.

Step 9. Setting up the starting strip.

This is a very crucial stage, treat its implementation with maximum attention. Perform work from the center of the cornice; the excess will be cut off at the edges. This method will allow the entire roof to be made symmetrical, and this is very important for the appearance of the bath. The starter strip has its own profile and an increased thickness of the adhesive layer. From the back, remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and fix it in a checkerboard pattern with studs with wide heads. 1.5 cm should be retreated from the rib of the dropper.

Step 10... Before you start laying the shingles, you need to mix in random order, do not take them in a row from one stack.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. A protective film is removed from the back of each shingle, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally fixed with nails.

Important. When hammering in nails in the lower part of the shingles, you should pay attention to the fact that their heads are necessarily covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.

There are types of tiles that do not have the protection of the adhesive layer, and it is a little easier to work with them. Drive in nails only at right angles, the caps should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; from the visible part of the shingle, the cap should be located at a distance of at least two centimeters. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11. Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints are additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to saw through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junctions are carefully coated with mastic.

Passage element - fixation

Step 12. Gables decoration. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. The excess parts are cut in a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13. The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then closed with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bituminous mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is pasted over with soft tiles. It can be cut out of an ordinary or broken along the lines of the cornice perforation. Secure the shingles with four studs, two on each side. Place your ridge against the prevailing wind direction.

If the ridge has an acute angle or the tiles are laid during the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be warmed up with a construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be installed at -5 ° C. Do not believe or experiment, work should only be done in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top, a little wider at the bottom. The wide, flat part of the factory cut will hide all the handcrafted irregularities.

This completes the work on the roof, you can proceed to the insulation of the roof.

Prices for shingles

flexible shingles

Video - Installation of flexible shingles

The construction of the rafter structure of the pitched roof is carried out in accordance with the norms and requirements of SNiP in force in Russia.

Particular attention should be paid to the climatic features of the region where the building is located. Both wind and snow loads (in winter) vary significantly depending on geographic location.

A roofing material such as shingles is intended only for pitched roofs. MetroTile® composite shingles can be used for roofs with a slope of at least 12 degrees.

Modern architectural solutions often involve a complex roof configuration, where some elements have a lower slope than the main slopes. In such areas of the roof, composite shingles can only be used for decorative purposes if there is one hundred percent waterproofing.

Figure 5-1.1 shows a general design diagram. Waterproofing is placed on top of the rafters, which are sawn vertically. The sheets of waterproofing material are mounted horizontally, from the eaves from bottom to top, with vertical overlaps of at least 150 mm and horizontal overlaps of about 100 mm. At the same time, as the specialists of the Stroymet company note, the waterproofing should sag between the rafters by 100-200 mm.

Docking of the waterproofing material canvases is carried out on the rafters. The very first canvas should hang from the edge of the rafters by at least 10 centimeters. Near the ridge of the roof, the waterproofing is not brought to the ridge itself by about 10 centimeters. This is necessary for roof ventilation.

The pitched roof has two ventilation ducts - VK-1 and VK-2 (see Fig. 5.1-2). The first is located above the waterproofing, and the second is below.

Rice. 5.1-2 - A

Rice. 5.1-2 - B

VK-1 is formed by a counter-lattice, for which bars with a cross section of 50 by 50 mm are usually used. The lower end of the counter-lattice should protrude beyond the edge of the rafter by a distance of up to 4 centimeters.

If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 20 degrees, then it is recommended to use a bar of 50 by 75 mm for the counter-lattice. In this case, the section of the VK-1 ventilation duct increases, as shown in Fig. 5.1-2-B.

Elements such as valleys can be provided in the roof structure. Taking their name from the old Russian narrow and long vessels, roof valleys help to quickly remove excess moisture from the roof - even in the case of prolonged slanting rains.

If there are valleys in the roof project, then it is necessary to start the installation of waterproofing and counter-laths from them.

When installing heat and waterproofing, it should be borne in mind that between them there must be a ventilation duct, which is designated in the diagrams as VK-2. It is necessary so that condensation does not form on the roof, which turns into ice at sub-zero temperatures.

Only if the newest Tyvek superdiffusion material is used in the waterproofing of the roof, the arrangement of the VK-2 ventilation duct is optional.

Installation of the lathing

The lathing of the roof with a distance between the rafters up to 1 meter (in Fig. 5.2-1 it is indicated by the letter "W", that is, the step of the rafters) is made of bars with a cross section of 50x50 millimeters. In the event that the step of the rafters is larger, the cross-section of the sheathing bars should also be increased. At the same time, the moisture content of the wood from which the crate is constructed cannot be higher than 20% of the dry weight.

The purlins are mounted from the bottom up. In fig. 5.2-1, the bottom bar is marked with number 1, and the top one - 4. The lowest bar is attached 2 cm from the end of the grid (see callout I in the same figure), and the first row of tiles from the bottom is fixed on it.

The bars used in the lathing must cover at least 2 spans between the rafters in length, and the lower edges of the adjacent rows of the lathing must be strictly 370 mm apart from each other. This is exactly the length of the standard sheet of composite tiles in all five MetroTile® collections. Therefore, only such a step between the battens allows you to create a lock at the joints of the tile sheets, which plays a key role both in functional terms (waterproofing the roof and its protection from wind loads) and in aesthetic (attractive appearance).

Figure 5.2-1 shows the templates with which you can accurately adjust the distance between the battens. They are quite simple to manufacture and greatly simplify the work.

The distance from the top row of the roof lathing to the ridge of the roof is a special parameter that is determined separately in each project. In fig. 5.2-1 (callouts II and III) it is designated with the letter "A". The ideal can be called such a rafter length at which this parameter will also be 370 mm, but other options are possible, which are described in more detail below.

Let's dwell especially on the ridge bars of the sheathing:

Callout II of Figure 5.2-1 shows the fastening of the semicircular ridge elements. In this case, the lathing bars are placed at a distance of 13 cm on either side of the roof ridge.
If ribbed elements of the ridge are used, then the sheathing bars should be trimmed and placed 120 mm from the ridge, as shown in callout III.
In the presence of valleys, the purlins should be located at a distance of 18 centimeters from the center line of the valley.

Work on the eaves of the roof begins with the installation of a eaves board 40 millimeters thick. The cornice board is firmly nailed to the rafters.

If the project provides for the installation of gutters, then brackets for gutters are fixed on the eaves board (Fig. 5.3-1, callout II). If the creation of gutters is not planned, then a condensate drip must be installed on the eaves board, which can be made from the eaves strip, as shown in Figure 5.3-2. When calculating the need for materials, the specialists of the Stroymet company note that the consumption of the cornice strip at the same time increases by about two times.

At the next stage, the first cornice element from the edge is fastened with 4 nails. Then, in the same way, the following cornice elements are installed with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters.

Important!

Since the reliability of the waterproofing of the roof and the functionality of the under-roof ventilation directly depend on the correct installation of the cornice elements, during the work, you must make sure of the following:

The cornice board is covered on top with a waterproofing film, and at the same time, a free drain of condensate into the gutter or drip is provided.
The dropper of the cornice plank is brought into the drainage system.
Between the waterproofing layer and the cornice element, there is sufficient space for air flow into the under-roof ventilation channel, indicated by a dotted line in Fig. 5.3-1 (callouts I and II), like VK-1.
The cornice lining has channels that provide air flow into the under-roof ventilation channel, indicated by a dotted line in the same figure as VK-2.

Installation of tiles on the roof slope

Laying of sheets of composite tiles is carried out with an overlap in such a way that the lower row goes under the upper one. After one row of sheets is fixed on the upper side, these sheets should be lifted in order to bring the sheets of the next (lower) row under them. After that, the top of the new sheets is nailed to the sheathing bars along with the bottom of the sheets of the higher row.

Tiled sheets are staggered with lateral overlap and offset. In fig. 5.4-1 lateral overlap is indicated by B and offset by S.

Different collections of MetroTile® composite tiles have their own recommendations for calculating offset and overlap parameters. In some cases, the basis for the calculation is an integer number of shingle waves, in others - the exact size in millimeters.

Rice. 5.4-1 - A

Rice. 5.4-1 - B

In overlapping areas, a maximum of three sheets of composite tiles are allowed to converge.

The following diagrams (Fig. 5.4-1, A and B) show the order of laying the sheets, depending on the prevailing wind direction in a given area. Since the entire roof structure is subject to constant wind loads, it is extremely important to take into account the direction of the wind when installing the tiles!

The fastening of shingles to the lathing also depends on the selected collection. The sequence of nails driving and the specific points where they should be driven are shown in Figure 5.4-2 - note that nails 1-4 are used if a new tile on the left side overlaps the previous one. If the sheet takes the last place in the row, then its free edge is attached with a nail 4a.

The nails are driven in at an angle of 45 ° to the surface of the sheet (Fig. 5.4-2, callout I). This should be done manually, and you need to stand on the surface of the already mounted tile and move along it as shown in Fig. 5.4-3.

In order for the nails not to stand out against the background of the decorative coating of the tiles, they can be painted over with acrylic paint and covered with basalt powder. Both are included in the repair kit.

Rice. 5.4-4 - A

Rice. 5.4-4 - B

As mentioned above, the top row of ridge tiles, unlike the rest of the rows, does not have a fixed size. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of this row of sheets, it is necessary to accurately measure the distance between the upper bar of the sheathing on the slope and the ridge bar.

If the distance (in Fig. 5.4-4 - A it is indicated by the letter "A") is 370 mm, then the top sheets of the tiles can be fixed in the same way as all the previous ones.

Distance A from 250 to 370 mm also allows the use of complete tiles in the top row. However, at the same time, one row shifts to another, and Stroymet specialists advise taking care of maintaining the required values of the maximum snow and wind load. For this purpose, not four, but eight nails should be hammered into the sheet, both from the top and from the bottom (see Fig. 5.4-4 - B).

Otherwise, from the top side, the sheet is attached in the usual way, while from below, nails must be driven into the top of the sheet profile. In this case, a sealant is placed between the sheets.

Rice. 5.4-4 - C

The most difficult situation is when the distance A is less than 250 mm. This eliminates the possibility of using whole shingles in the top row. Therefore, the sheets need to be shortened. How to do this is shown in Fig. 5.4-4 - C.

In order to prevent deformation of the sheets or reduce it, you should first make a fold at a distance A from the edge of the sheet. The fold and cut lines are marked on the sheet (the second is 50 mm further than the first) and then, using a hand or special tool, the sheet is folded up.

Both manual and special tools can be used to cut the sheet.

The shortened shingles are nailed to the upper purlins with nails - 8 pieces per sheet.

On the pediment, the roofing sheets must be mounted flush with the ends of the purlins, as shown in fig. 5.5-1. The edges of the sheets should be bent upwards at right angles using a manual bending tool (at a distance of about 30-40 mm from the edge). At this point, a universal self-adhesive seal is glued to the sheets (Fig. 5.5-2 and 5.5-3).

The most important element of the pediment is the wind board, which has a cross section of 25 by 130 millimeters and is attached to the ends of the sheathing bars with nails (Fig.5.5-3).

Important! The wind board should be installed in such a way that when installing the end strip, its curly teeth only slightly touch the surface of the tile sheets.

The end plates are installed from the bottom up. At the bottom strip - the first from the cornice - the end should be closed with a special plug (Fig. 5.5-4).

The end plate plug must be inserted inside it, sealed with silicone and secured with four self-tapping screws.

Before attaching the end strips, they must be placed on the end board and only after making sure that they are all laid out correctly and evenly can you start fixing.

Each plank is nailed to the wind board with five or six nails.

Rice. 5.5-5 - A

Rice. 5.5-5 - B

For decorative purposes, the end strip on the pediment can be replaced with a semicircular ridge.

In Figure 5.5-5 - A, you can see the cross-section of the end plate attachment unit on the pediment. In fig. 5.5-5 - B shows a special case where the total thickness of the roofing cake is more than 130 mm. It requires the inclusion of an additional element in the design - an apron, which is made from a flat roofing sheet and placed under the end strip, as shown in the diagram.

The ridge roof elements are installed with an overlap of 100 mm. If the ridge is semicircular, then its elements are placed with an overlap of 45 mm and form a kind of lock.

Both rib and semicircular elements are nailed to the ridge bars of the sheathing with 50 mm nails in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.6-1 or 5.6-2.

For the ridge of a single-pitched roof, Stroymet specialists recommend using a bent flat sheet, as shown in Fig. 5.6-3. The bending angle depends on the thickness of the rafters and the slope of the roof slope. If necessary (as a rule, for aesthetic reasons), semicircular ridge elements can be fixed on top of such a ridge.

To prevent the penetration of water and snow into the space between the upper Boer lathing and the ridge elements, it is recommended to put a universal seal in this place.

The elements of the semicircular ridge should be positioned as shown in fig. 5.6-4 taking into account the prevailing direction of wind flows.

The ends of the semicircular and ribbed skates can be closed with special covers (Fig. 5.6-5).

Hip roof has triangular slopes, which creates some specific difficulties when installing composite shingles on such a roof.

Figure 5.7-1 shows a diagram of the installation of bars with a section of 50 by 50 mm on top of the roof lathing along the hip ridge. If the ridge is semicircular, then the distance between the outer edges of these bars should be 150-160 mm, but if the ridge is ribbed, then 120-130 mm is enough.

The sheets of MetroTile® composite shingles that will be adjacent to the hip must be trimmed as shown in fig. 5.7-2. Before cutting, to reduce deformations, the sheet should be folded (Fig. 5.7-3). The fold line should correspond to the required sheet size, and the cut line should be marked with a 50 mm allowance. You need to bend the sheet vertically upward, at an angle of 90 degrees. It is recommended to measure and mark the fold and cut lines directly on the roof, while preparation is best done on the ground.

Before installing the ridge elements, additional seals must be laid along the hip ridge bar. Otherwise, the installation of hip skates does not differ from the installation of ridge elements on a conventional roof (in accordance with the recommendations outlined in the previous section).

The features of installing semicircular ridge elements on a hip roof are shown in Fig. 5.7-4.

On both sides of the longitudinal axis of the valley, it is necessary to install wooden blocks with a section of 50 by 50 millimeters. On top of these bars, waterproofing is placed, which in no case should be pulled and secured with nails.

In 5 centimeters from the bars under the valley, counter-lattice bars with a sawn-out part with a section of 25 by 150 mm are installed, which is a quarter of a bar. A support board under the valley should be laid here, the section of which is exactly the same - 25x150 mm.

The ends of the purlins coming into the valley are attached to the support board and cut at a distance of 200 mm from the axis of the valley. In this case, cavities are formed under them, which are necessary for removing condensate from the under-roof space and ensuring air circulation in it.

The valley elements are attached to the support board with 40mm self-tapping screws. The installation of the elements starts from the bottom of the roof. In this case, the upper self-tapping screws are located 30 mm from the edge of the element and at the maximum distance from the axis of the valley.

The following elements are pushed into the previous ones, and the overlap must be at least 150 mm. They are also screwed to the support board with self-tapping screws.

Stroymet specialists recommend installing a universal seal along the side of the valley.

Before starting the installation, you can bend the side edge of the roof sheet adjacent to the valley downward, as shown in Fig. 5.8-2. In this case, the distance from the valley to the fold of the sheet should be about 10-15 mm.

Attention! When working on the design of a tiled roof, it should be borne in mind that valley elements are supplied without basalt dressing.

All ventilation and heating pipes leading to the roof must be plastered before installing the tiles. No ledges or overlaps are allowed on pipes.

The installation diagram of the roofing elements on the roof sections adjacent to the pipes is shown in Fig. 5.9-1 and 5.9-2. On the first of them, you see section A - in a plane that is parallel to the rafters (on the leader on the left you can see how it looks on the scale of the entire building).

The apron shown in the diagram is attached to a pipe or to a wall using self-tapping screws with dowels.

Figure 5.9-2 shows section B. Here the section plane is perpendicular to the roof rafters:

Installation of tiles on the external and internal fracture of the slope

If the roof slope has an external fracture, then in this place the roofing sheets are mounted in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.10-1.

In fig. 5.10-2 shows how to mount composite shingles on an internal slope fracture. In this case, the step between the lathing bars at the fracture is, as a rule, more than the usual 370 mm. The figure in the diagram is indicated conditionally - the actual distance depends on the angle of inclination of both slopes and is specified when installing the battens.

Installation of end and side abutment to the wall

The junction to the wall is made in the same way as the junction to the pipe - that is, in accordance with the diagrams in fig. 5.9-1 and fig. 5.9-2 and the materials of the corresponding chapter.

Installation of complex roof fragments

The MetroTile® flat roof sheet is suitable for covering difficult roof areas such as tapered or semicircular roofs. This sheet must be cut into pieces of the desired shape, which are then fixed on a solid sheathing of edged boards, moisture-resistant plywood, oriented strand board (OSB) or other materials.

Installation of a roof window

Skylights that are installed in roof openings with MetroTile® tiles must have a flashing specially designed for high profile roofing materials. In the Stroymet company you can buy a complete set of a roof window - with a frame and elements for sealing. We offer windows for attic and. Also, when preparing the base for the installation of the MetroTile® roof, it is necessary to take into account in advance the correspondence of the dimensions of the roof window, the distance between the rafters and the battens.

The dimensions of the opening for the attic window are calculated so that it is 40-60 millimeters wider and 45 millimeters higher than the window itself (Figure 5.13).

In addition, it is necessary to prepare the battens of the lathing directly adjacent to the window frame so that the level of the flashing is 25 millimeters below the lathing. For this, a quarter is selected in the corresponding bars to a depth of 25 mm and to the width of the window flashing.

At the bottom of the window, the roof sheathing must be reinforced. Specific reinforcement parameters are usually specified in the instructions of the roof window supplier.

Applying MetroTile® Transparent Sheets

The device of roof windows is the only acceptable way to ensure the penetration of light rays through the insulated roof.

However, when it comes to the construction of awnings and open terraces, as well as the lighting of cold attics, you can use another method of lighting - using transparent MetroTile® sheets.

In their shape and size, they do not differ from ordinary roofing sheets, so their installation is not associated with any difficulties and does not require the use of additional accessories. The peculiarity of transparent sheets is that they are made of polymeric material - polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Thanks to this, they let light through.

If the slope of the roof slope does not reach extreme values of more than 40 degrees, then the very structure of the MetroTile® composite tile prevents an avalanche of snow masses.

However, in some cases, the installation of snow guards is required in accordance with SNiPs. They are also needed at too large slope angles.

Snow guards can be mounted in accordance with the diagrams in Figures 5.14-1 and 5.14-2.

MetroTile ® roofing materials can be successfully used not only in the construction of new buildings, but also during the renovation of existing ones, including the installation of tiles over the existing roof. If the existing roof has become dilapidated, began to leak or is outdated morally, then it is not necessary to remove it.

Composite shingles can be installed on old corrugated roofs as well as standing seam roofs or shingles.

A counter-lattice on a corrugated sheet is made of bars of such a section that their upper edge is higher than the crests of the corrugated sheet. The step between the bars of the counter-lattice should not exceed 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-1).

It is even easier to mount the counter grill on flexible or folded tiles. Here, standard bars with a section of 50 by 50 millimeters are used with a step of exactly 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-2).

If the dilapidated roof is leaking, Stroymet specialists recommend laying an additional layer of waterproofing material above it, as shown in Figure 5.15-3.

If the old roof has a bituminous coating, then additional insulation may be necessary (Fig. 5-15-4).

In all cases, a batten is mounted on top of the counter batten, to which the MetroTile ® composite tiles are attached in accordance with the instructions in this manual.

Despite the huge amount of modern roofing materials that are capable of imitating the natural look of tiled roofing in a very high quality, many homeowners prefer ceramics. The rather high cost of ceramic tiles does not allow the massive use of this material in a roofing device. In addition, professional work on the installation of ceramic roofing is considered to be expensive.

Features of the rafter system

The roof rafter system made of ceramic tiles is specific due to the weight of the roofing material. Natural tiles are ten times heavier, and the load per square meter of the roof is about fifty kilograms.

For the rafter frame, you should choose dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 15%. The rafters are made of timber with a section of 50x150 mm or 60x180 mm. The pitch range should be 80 - 130 cm and depends on the roof slope. The larger the roof slope, the larger the rafter step.

On a roof with a slope of 15 degrees, the distance between the rafters is 80 cm, and with a slope of 75 degrees, the rafter pitch is 130 centimeters. In addition, the length of the rafter legs must be taken into account. The longer the rafters, the less distance is maintained between them.

Material calculation

Any one must withstand a load of 200 kg / m2, regardless of the weight of the roofing material itself. To obtain correct calculations, it is necessary to add the weight of the ceramic tiles to this indicator. Thus, the roof frame is created taking into account the roof load of 250 kg / m2.

Installation of natural tiles is carried out by overlapping, the size of which is influenced by the roof slope. If there are slopes less than 25 degrees, installation is carried out with an overlap of 10 cm, with a slope of 25-35 degrees - 7.5 cm, and with a slope of more than 45 degrees - 4.5 centimeters.

To obtain the effective length of the material, it is necessary to subtract from the total length of the ceramic element the segment required to form the overlap. The useful width is indicated by the manufacturer in the enclosed instructions. Based on these two values, the roofing material is calculated per square meter of coverage. The result is rounded up.

It is also possible to determine the number of tiles along the length of the ramp based on the useful length of the tiles. The resulting indicator is the number of tiled rows. Then you need to calculate the number of elements in one row, and multiply the result by the number of rows.

With a roof slope of 22 degrees, a waterproofing layer of roll material is required. The overlap of the canvases should be ten centimeters. To calculate the waterproofing material, the area of the slopes must be multiplied by 1.4.

The most accurate calculation of the materials required for roofing work can be done using special computer programs or using online calculators.

Installation instructions

Layout and installation of the crate

The lathing for natural tiles is made of beams with a section of 50x50mm or 40x60 mm. Along the eaves, it is necessary to lay lumber with a width that is two centimeters more than this indicator for ordinary elements. The horizontal beams of the lathing are stacked in an amount that corresponds to the number of tiled rows with the addition of an additional cornice row.

The marking of the place for laying the lathing beams is made using a coated cord and templates that match in size with the useful height of one tile. The docking of horizontal rails is performed on the rafters.

To calculate the pitch of the lathing, subtract the length of the lower step from the total pitched length, as well as the distance from the bottom of the last batten. The result obtained is divided by the approximate lathing step.

The simplest method for calculating the frame is to take into account the standard length of 40 cm with an overlap of 5.5-9 centimeters. Based on the standard data, the pitch of the battens is the length of the tiles, from which the overlap is subtracted. As a rule, the optimal step size is at least 31 and no more than 34 centimeters.

Masonry and fastening of natural tiles

Tile installation begins with an even distribution of the stacks of roofing elements over the roof surface. This principle does not overload the rafter system.

First, the top row of natural tiles is laid out. It is located along the ridge. Then

the lower row of roofing material is mounted, which should be laid along the overhang. It is necessary to fix the tile tiles to the frame of the lathing after checking the correctness of the installation.

After fixing the eaves row, further installation of the tile covering is carried out in the directions from bottom to top and from right to left. For fastening the material, hardware is used, regulated by instructions from the manufacturer of roofing tiles. Then the elements of the ridge and pediment sections are laid.

The ridge part is supplied with an edged board, which touches the ridge elements only at the attachment points. The intersections of the pediment and the roof ridge are equipped by adjusting and trimming the tile elements. It is recommended to use a grinder for cutting.

Pitched roofs require a tight abutment of the roof covering to the chimney and the equipment of steps for safe access to the pipes. For the steps, the installation of two reinforcing rails to the rafter legs is required. Tiles with steps must be devoid of a lock, which allows for the correct landing of the steps.

An important role is played by a competent and dense arrangement of chimney joints by means of a self-adhesive material based on lead or aluminum. All joints of the roll abutment are fixed by means of a clamping bar. The seam in the upper part of the plank is treated with a colorless sealant. When arranging the ridge, the parameters of the edge shingles are taken into account, which are leveled by cutting the material along the edge bevel.

On roofs with a complex configuration, it is required to equip valleys. Before laying the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to fix the continuous sheathing. The bottom of the valley is equipped with edged boards, on top of which an appropriate layer will be laid.

Adding double-sided self-adhesive tape to the valley helps to improve waterproofing. For fastening, special steel clamps are used, which are mounted in the drilled holes. The edge is painted with special pigments.

Ventilation arrangement

Normal operation of a roof made of natural tiles is impossible without quality assurance. is carried out in accordance with the rules and arrangement of air gaps. One gap is located between the thermal insulation layer and the waterproofing. The second gap is installed from the waterproofing membrane to the roof covering.

For the valley, the length of which exceeds six meters, a ventilation tiled row is being laid. For this purpose, tiles of the corresponding category are used.

You can learn more about editing by watching the video.

Installation work cost

Laying tiled roofs using natural ceramic tiles costs the consumer on average from 700 rubles per sq. meter. This cost includes the price for the device of absolutely all standard roofing units. All non-standard roofing options are rated according to complexity and volume.

Summing up

A distinctive feature of ceramic tiles is the complexity of the installation work and for this reason it is recommended to use the services of experienced roofers.

For fastening natural tiles, galvanized hardware or special clamps are used. Mandatory shingles fixation points are:

places subject to significant wind loads;
a row along the eaves;
sections of gables and along the ridge element.

The fixing of ceramics on slopes with a roofing slope of more than 50 degrees is carried out strictly through the element.

Among the variety of roofing materials, ceramic tile roofing is especially popular. And although such a coating is quite expensive, its operational properties fully justify the financial costs of purchasing the material. About what the roofing is, and how to properly install ceramic tiles, we understand in the article below.

Ceramic roofing dates back many hundreds of years before our existence. Indeed, it is based solely on clay, which in ancient times was almost the main building material. Today, shingles are also made from clay by pressing and firing at high temperatures. And to enhance the finished product and give it an attractive appearance, the glazing technique is used. That is, the tile surface is covered with a special glaze, which forms a protective glossy layer of the material and enhances its wear-resistant characteristics. Roof tiles are produced individually and sold on pallets.

Benefits of roofing material

A ceramic tile roof is not only an attractive and rich appearance of a house. In addition to aesthetics, such a roofing material has a number of other advantages. These are:

Durability of the coating... In general, properly laid tiles can last up to 100 years or more;
Coating resistance to weather factors... Tiles are not afraid of rain, snow, wind, frost or sun rays;
Absolute environmental friendliness of the material... Such coatings are made from exclusively natural components;
The possibility of constructing a roof of ceramic tiles on roofs of complex configuration... This is due to the small size of the coating fragments;
Good maintainability... In case of wear of the roof section, it can be easily replaced using the required number of fragments;
High level of noise absorption... The tiled roof and the residents under it are not afraid of the sound of rain on a thunderstorm night.

Disadvantages of coverage

Shingles, like any other roofing material, have their drawbacks. These are:

Large product weight... In the final mass, the entire roof will weigh about several tons. Therefore, a reinforced rafter system is required under a tile roof.
Relative fragility of the coating. So with very strong point mechanical shocks, the tiles can break. But this is extremely rare.
Some painstaking styling. So, small elements require a careful and balanced approach during installation and tiled roofs, which increases the complexity of the process.

Important: The high cost of roofing material can also be attributed to its disadvantage. However, this is only at the discretion of the buyer.

Tip: Tiled roofing is best suited for houses built on a reinforced foundation and built of stone or brick. It is worth remembering that tiles laid on wooden or foam-block walls of a house will cause significant deformation and shrinkage.

Settlement work

In order for the installation of a ceramic tile roof to be carried out correctly and without interruption, you first need to calculate the amount of material required. To do this, measure the length and width of each roof slope.

Then it is worth finding out the useful area of the shingles. As a rule, it is indicated by the manufacturer. But it should be borne in mind that it can vary depending on the length of the overlap when laying. And that, in turn, changes depending on the angle of the slope of the slope. In particular, the picture looks like this:

For a slope with a slope angle of 25 degrees, the overlap is 100 mm;
For a slope with an angle of 35 degrees - an overlap of 75 mm;
For a slope with a slope angle of 45 degrees and more - 45 mm.

Thus, from the length of one tile, you need to subtract the overlap you need in your case and then multiply the resulting value by the width of the tile. We get the usable area of one element.

It remains to translate the area of the slope and the area of the element in mm and divide the first value by the second. We get the number of tiles required for one particular roof slope.

Important: the number of tiles required is calculated for each slope separately. Especially if there are turrets, triangular slopes, etc.

Advice: if the roof has a slope angle of less than 22 degrees, then it is advisable to protect it with a diffuse membrane. The required amount of material is calculated by multiplying the total area of the roof slopes by 1.4. The resulting value is rounded up.

Installation of a tiled roof

Preparation

It should be understood that laying ceramic tiles requires thoroughness and deliberation. The slightest mistake in the work and at least everything will have to be redone again. In the worst case, the roof will leak.

First, preparatory work is performed in the form of a roof lathing and waterproofing device. The sequence of actions looks like this:

Along the rafter legs at the very bottom (20 cm from the edge), a drip is attached, which will protect the tree from getting wet. It is fixed on self-tapping screws along its entire length with overlaps at the joints. The apron is tucked under the rafter legs.
Now, in the valleys, two longitudinal beams are attached on both sides of it. The ends are cut flush with the eaves. The distance between the beams is approximately 10 cm.
A diffusion membrane is laid on top of the beams of the valley, with the inscription upwards. It will keep the roof corners from leaking. The membrane is cut along the cornice with a margin of 15 cm for the fold.
Now lay a membrane on each slope before installing the shingles. The roll is rolled out over the rafters and gradually fastened with a stapler. On triangular slopes, the membrane is attached with 5 cm overlaps on the opposite slope.
On the drip tip, the membrane is attached with double-sided tape and pressed tightly.

Sheathing device

Now, in order for the ceramic tile installation of which we started to be stably fixed on the roof, you need to correctly arrange the crate. Start with the bottom support bar. Actions are performed in this order:

A support bar for the lower row of tiles is stuffed along a drip. And the remaining ventilation gap under the eaves is covered with a perforated mesh. This will protect the under-roof space from birds settling in it.
Now is the time to attach the second support bar at such a distance from the drip (support bottom bar) that part of the shingles hangs over the gutter by 1/3 of its width. To do this, you will have to attach the shingles and try on their length. We mark the place of attachment of the bar and fix it.

Important: using a level, you need to monitor the evenness of the bar.

Then the upper lathing beam is nailed at a distance of 3 cm from the intersection of the counter-lattice beam in the area of the ridge.
The batten is the support for the top and bottom of each row of shingles. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate its step. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the extreme upper and lower support bar of the sheathing. We divide the value by the useful height of one tile. We get the number of support beams. We place them at a distance equal to the length of one tile. We apply all the basting with a control cord, so that later it would be easier to fix the beams correctly.
Now the stuffed beam must be cut along the edge from top to bottom in one line so that it protrudes no more than 30 cm from the extreme rafter leg.
Under the lathing beams, a counter-lattice beam is also mounted along the edge. Then the edge of the left membrane is wrapped around it and fixed with a stapler.
And it remained to fill the frontal board along the beam, covered with a membrane. The remainder of the membrane is cut off.

Along the eaves, mounts for the gutter with a pitch of 70 cm. The slope of the gutter should be at least 3 mm for each meter of its length along the slope. Therefore, it is necessary to number the curved mounts before fixing and then arrange them in the desired order.

Important: the edge of the gutter closest to the wall should be 1 cm higher than the far edge. For this, all fasteners must be correctly bent at a given angle using a bend bracket.

All fasteners are fixed with self-tapping screws and screws. Then a pre-assembled chute is installed on them. The ends of the gutter are covered with a dummy tip. The drain pipes are led to the gutter in accordance with their instructions.

Now you need to attach a plastic apron to the lower edge of the overhang, which will go over the edge of the gutter and prevent water from entering the wall of the house.

Waterproofing device in the valley

In this place, it is necessary to install a frequent crate due to the heavy snow load in these places. The tile laying technology implies the installation of the valley gutter from the bottom up. It is fixed in the upper part with two self-tapping screws. The next section of the gutter is laid with an overlap on the lower fragment and is also fixed with self-tapping screws. The groove on both sides is fixed with special brackets with a step of 20-30 cm. The joints are glued with a sealing tape and rolled with an eagle.

Laying tiles

The first shingle must be laid on the lower extreme beam of the overhang so that it joins its extreme ledge with the frontal board. In this case, the support spike of the tile is knocked down with a hammer.
Now we lay out a row of tiles and fix each of them with a self-tapping screw through the drilled hole.
Then we lay the column of roofing material, moving from bottom to top. Each tile is attached at the top with a self-tapping screw. You can also fix the shingles on special clamps, but this is longer in time.

Important: all tiles are laid from right to left and from bottom to top along the applied markings.

To lay the shingles in the valley, it is necessary to apply a basting on it with a cord so that the overlap of future elements on it is at least 8 cm. The shingles must be cut off with a grinder at an angle.

Important: Avoid small triangles of shingles in valleys that are difficult to fix. To prevent this from happening, in the rows of the roof, you can use its half parts with a shift away from the valley. That is, in the valley there should be a large piece of tile, cut at an angle.

The visible part of the valley, not covered with tiles, should be no more than 13-15 cm.

Tip: to lay a ceramic roof on a triangular roof slope, you need to outline the middle from its top to the base. Then the tiles are laid, moving to the sides from the center of the base of the triangle. The extreme tiles are cut at an angle when laying.

Now we install the ridge beam and cover it with a membrane. The ends of the timber are covered with decorative elements. The ridge bar is covered with a ridge tile fixed on special clamps. The corners of the roof slopes are covered by the same principle.

Tip: since the shingles on a pallet weigh about a ton, you should correctly distribute the load on the rafter system when lifting the roofing material up. And for this, the raised cover is laid out in piles in several pieces along the entire perimeter of the ramp.