I bought daffodils in a pot what to do. How to grow daffodils at home in a pot

Daffodils are a genus of monocotyledonous perennials from the Amaryllis family. Flowers bloom among the first with the onset of spring. In the natural environment, they grow in the south of Europe, in Asia and the Mediterranean. Of the 60 species, about 25 are cultivated, including hybrid forms. Belonging to bulbous plants confuses the rules of care. Inexperienced flower growers adhere to standard agrotechnical measures, focusing on tulips. This is a wrong position. Only competent care throughout the growing season and after flowering will be the key to healthy growth next year.

Flowering of daffodils is observed in May-June. They reach their maximum development in the third year of life. In the shade, primroses will not bloom so colorfully, but for a longer time. It should be noted that it is unacceptable to touch the leaves until the plant has completely faded and they have not dried up on their own. For another 1.5–2 months after flowering, the nutrients accumulated from the sun enter the rhizome. Therefore, other bulbs are planted nearby. So that drooping flowers do not greatly spoil the overall picture in the garden, daffodils are planted in compositions with late flowering crops.

Daffodils are quite unpretentious in care, but they are classified as plants with a short growing season. They bloom beautifully in early spring, and in mid-summer they begin to turn yellow. In most cases, these are winter-hardy flowers that can be left in the ground during the cold season. You need to take care of the following algorithm:

pruning;
top dressing;
planting bulbs.

The bulb at this stage is saturated with everything necessary for the full development for the next season. Mineral complex fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus are applied. If the foliage has not completely died off, you should not touch it for the next 2-3 months after flowering. The first 10-12 days the bushes are watered, then completely stopped. Immediately after the death of the buds, fertilizing is made from potash-phosphorus fertilizers.

All useful substances from the leaves descend into the bulbs. As soon as they dry naturally, cut and burn.

The root perimeter is loosened and mulched with an organic layer: peat, fallen leaves or sawdust. The procedure is carried out until the soil cools down, and the shelter is removed in the spring, when the threat of night cooling has passed.

Cultures in containers

Such specimens are more demanding to care than plants in the open field. After the end of the flowering period, the soil is fed with bone meal. Wait 1-2 months until the plant completely fades, stop watering. Then the bulbs will safely overwinter in a pot without digging. After the flowers die, the container is placed on its side.

In the fall, they return it to its original position and moisturize it abundantly. This is a necessary measure for flowering in the spring. Bulbs are able to live in this mode for up to 3 years without transplanting into open ground. In the second year of growth, the flowers become smaller. It is advisable to transplant in the summer, when the foliage completely dies off.

When are daffodils transplanted?

For successful rooting of the bulbs before frost, they are transplanted in September-October. The soil is pre-fed and dug up, holes with a drainage layer are prepared. Planting depth depends on the size of the head, usually 25–30 cm. Deepen 4–5 cm more into loose soil, closer to the surface into clay soil. Plantings are placed at a distance of 15–20 cm. After that, they are well moistened and covered with mulch.

Flowers quietly grow in one place, without needing a transplant, up to 5-6 years. Dig up when many bulbs form in one nest. Such a measure is resorted to when there is a deterioration in flowering. A suitable period is when the foliage is completely withered. Do not hesitate with this, so as not to spoil the planting material. Terry and tubular varieties of daffodils and those growing on peat bogs are transplanted annually. Then there are more chances to retain the original maternal qualities.

It is acceptable to remove heads for transplanting if the leaves are not completely wilted. It takes place in the middle of summer. Be very careful not to damage the bulbs.

Then they are cleaned and dried. Sorted by quality: no chips and rot, lesions. The bad ones are immediately burned. The selected material is washed, disinfected with a manganese solution, and dried. Store until autumn in a cool and ventilated room at a temperature of + 17°C. Planted in August-September, asymmetrically. So before the onset of frost, the landing will have time to take root in a new place.

Care for lilies after flowering - is it possible to cut the shoots?

Color division

You can divide and plant daffodils in the third year after planting, in the fall. Then next year, a new flowering plant will turn out from the daughter formations. After yellowing of the leaves and their complete drying, the bulbs are dug up and divided. The sick and injured are discarded. The entire above-ground part is removed. The heads are dried and stored until disembarkation in a cool place, not lower than 20 ° C.

Before planting, the soil is dug to a great depth and all rocky inclusions and debris are removed. If necessary, make humus. The onions are pre-soaked in a fungicide solution for 2-3 hours..

A layer of fine sand is poured at the bottom of the pit and expanded clay drainage is laid. This will protect the roots from putrefactive processes. Transplanted immediately after digging, as fresh air harms the roots. The landing site is watered and covered with a mulch cover.

Shelter for the winter

Daffodils are frost-resistant crops, but this does not exclude freezing of the roots in harsh and snowless winters. No less detrimental to them are early thaws and short-term drops in temperature. In early spring, flowers begin to come to life along with nature, but a sharp temperature jump can instantly destroy them. Particularly sensitive to cold are large-flowered varieties of daffodils and those planted in late autumn. They simply do not have time to adapt to the new environment.

To avoid this, the root circle is covered with a layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 20-25 cm. From above, the bushes are covered with a special cover material, but a little later. They are waiting for a stable low temperature and a slight freezing of the earth. In the spring, all protective devices are removed.

bulb storage

If you want to move the daffodils for the winter, the bulbs are dug into the room in July, when the bush loses its decorative effect and falls apart. A similar period begins immediately after flowering and lasts 2-3 months. Depends on climatic conditions. It is not worth delaying digging up, as there is a danger of being hit by a narcissus fly. This pest loves to eat bulbs.

The children are carefully separated so as not to injure the regrown roots. Soft and deformed specimens are removed. The good ones are washed under running water, treated with potassium permanganate and dried. For the winter season, daffodil bulbs are placed in thin rows in a wooden ventilated box and placed in a cool room. Cannot be packed in polyethylene. The carbon dioxide released, which will not be weathered, will not allow the daffodils to breathe freely, and they will die. The optimal microclimate regime during storage: until the end of August, the temperature is + 20 ° C, then - not lower than + 10 ° C before planting. Humidity is about 65–70%.

Do not place tulip and hyacinth bulbs next to each other. They are also perennials, but with different storage requirements.

Regularly inspect the bulbs to remove rotting specimens in time. The source of putrefactive processes is different. If brown spots are observed, this is a fungus. When an unpleasant odor comes out - bacterial reproduction. If you dig onions in the heat, there is a high risk of developing Fusarium during storage. Rotting begins at the bottom and progressively rises up. At first it is imperceptible, but in a short time the head softens. If it is planted in the ground, the plant will not fully develop, the leaves will quickly turn yellow and fall off. Control measures - careful rejection of seed, cleaning from old scales and pouring with chalk.

Timely watering, removal of dead buds, weeding and top dressing are mandatory measures for caring for daffodils after flowering. The leaves are cut off completely, a stump of 1.5–2 cm is left. Next, they are waiting for natural wilting. For the first year of life, you can not transplant the plant if the soil is well fed. But for the winter the flowers must be covered.

Since the elegance and irresistibility of daffodils was recognized, they have been grown in almost every garden, front garden, and city flower bed. They look good as a cut and are combined with other plants. Narcissus is not only a garden flower. It can also be grown at home in a pot.

Planting bulbs.

If the bulbs are planted in heavy soil, then the planting depth should be twelve centimeters, if in light, then seventeen. Large bulbs are buried twenty-five cm, and the distance between them should be seventy. To get more children, the depth and distance between plantings are reduced by ten to twelve cm.

Narcissus bulbs are planted in holes, on the bottom of which sand is poured. Then peat is placed on the soil, and with the onset of frost, the area is covered with straw. When the snow melts, the protective layer is removed, and the peat is left.

Caring for daffodils.

The plant does not require special care. Enough properly water, loosen and fertilize.

Watering and loosening.

Lack of moisture adversely affects flowering. When the first shoots appear, you need to water twice a week. After flowering, watering is not stopped so that the bulb can receive the necessary nutrients.
Periodically, the flower garden is weeded and loosened, faded flowers are removed in time.

Fertilizer

Throughout the entire period of growth of daffodils, they are fed 4 times:

mineral fertilizers are used for sprouts;
at the stage of the appearance of the peduncle, a solution is prepared, which consists of potassium sulfate, superphosphate and urea;
when a bud has formed, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen are used;
during the flowering period, phosphorus and potassium are used (the dosage is small).

Fertilizers are always applied after weeding. In drought it is better to use solutions, and in rainy weather - powders.

Reproduction of daffodils.

There are two methods of reproduction - seed and vegetative.
Reproduction by seeds the longest way, the plants will bloom only after 6 - 7 years. Dried seeds are planted in boxes with earth and looked after as seedlings. The first years the sprouts are not touched, they give the onion to get stronger and form roots. Then transplanted to a permanent place.

Vegetative method includes two options:

separation of children from mother. They are planted in separate holes. They are cared for in the same way as for adult bulbs.
reproduction by means of scales. To do this, take the largest bulbs and dry them for a week. Then cut off the top and divide into eight parts. Each lobule should have two scales. They are put in a bag and kept closed for 3-4 months, during which time small onions should form, which are planted in boxes with peat and sand.

Why don't daffodils bloom?

The plant may not bloom if it is not properly cared for.
There may be several options here:

the bulbs are too closely spaced to each other;
acidic soil;
little light;
stagnant water
lack of moisture.

Diseases and pests.

Daffodils are susceptible to the following diseases - fusarium, nematode and banding. Processing planting material before planting will get rid of the fungus. If the plant is affected by the virus, then it should be destroyed immediately. Dip healthy bulbs in hot water for several hours.

Hoverfly, tick, fly harm daffodils. An insecticide will help against them.

Diseases most often occur due to violations of agricultural technology - poor lighting, too much nitrogen, inappropriate humidity and temperature.

What to do after flowering.

When flowering is over, the leaves should not be cut, they should dry out.
After the leaves have dried, the bulbs can not be dug up, but the ground parts can be removed, the flower garden should be weeded, loosened and watered until autumn.
You can store bulbs intended for planting:

in the cellar (they are planted in boxes);
in the refrigerator (stored in a paper bag, checking for rot).

Growing daffodils at home.

Daffodils grow well at home in pots and delight in flowering from December to March. In order for them to take root well, it is important to choose bulbs that are large and without damage (holes, scratches, rotting areas). After the planting material is purchased, it must be planted in pots as soon as possible. Until then, it should be stored in a cool, dry place.

In order for the plant to take root, you need to follow some rules.

Planting in pots

The pot for planting is taken not very high, in the width of the average size. In one pot, you can plant from 2 to 4 bulbs (the number depends on the size). A clay or ceramic container is best suited. If the pot is chosen incorrectly, the plant will not bloom. At the bottom of the pot should be holes for draining water. They are necessary so that the water does not stagnate, and the bulbs do not rot.

Land for planting can be bought at any special store. It can be a soil for daffodils, universal, or you can take the earth from the garden. Whatever the soil, you need to add sawdust, sand or clay to it. The earth must be crumbly. If there are lumps in it, then much less oxygen will enter the soil and this will lead to infection by the fungus.

After the pot and soil are selected, they begin planting. Drainage 3 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pot and covered with earth. The bulbs are lightly pressed into the soil, their upper part should remain on the surface. Then the pot is placed for 3 months in a dark and cool place. After this period, the plant is transferred to the room.

In order for daffodils to bloom by December, the landing must be made in September. If flowering is planned for spring, then in November or December.

Daffodils should not be placed next to other plants on the windowsill, as they contain toxic substances and can harm home flowers.

Caring for flowers in the house

It is important to water the plant properly. The first watering is done immediately after planting the bulbs. While the rooting process is in progress, it should be moderate - once every 14 days. Then watered as the earth dries into the pan. Water should be at room temperature. After the leaves turn yellow, watering should be stopped.

Fertilizing domestic daffodils is carried out 2 times: the first, when sprouts appeared; the second, when the buds started. Nitrogen and potassium are used for fertilizing.

After the plant has faded, the dried flowers are cut off, and the leaves are left. As soon as they completely wither, they are cut off and the pot is removed in a cool place. You can also take the bulbs out of the pot and wrap them in paper.

At home, narcissus is most often affected by a fungus. This is due to improper watering. The plant should not be flooded. Before planting, all planting material must be treated with a fungicide.

Among the pests are tick, nematode and fly. To prevent the plant from becoming infected, it is necessary to remove its withered parts in time, loosen the soil and inject an insecticide into it.

The use of daffodils in garden design.

These flowers can be used in various flower beds. They look best in the garden in large arrays of the same species. They can be combined with goose onions, scilas, corydalis, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses,

All garden plants and shrubs require proper and high-quality care. The most popular among flowers are daffodils. They decorate the backyard with bright sunny inflorescences in the summer. When the end of flowering comes, the daffodils have faded, and many do not know what to do next. Even in autumn, it is important to prepare them for the winter period. The preparation and processing of bulbs is important so that they do not lose their varietal properties.

After the daffodils have faded, it is necessary to take care of them.

It consists of the following steps:

You can not cut the foliage after flowering for 2 months. Sunlight enters the bulbs through the leaves.
After 2-3 months, when the foliage is completely dry, carefully cut it off and remove it from the main bush.
With the onset of autumn, it is necessary to fertilize with fertilizers that dissolve in water.
Young plants are covered with a layer of humus or leafy turf on top for the winter.

Young flower bulbs after the growing season should not be dug up. It is better to dig every 3 years so that the mother bush gives young children. Adult bulbs of 3 years of age are dug up after the growing season in late July, early August.

After the foliage dries, the bulbs do not have a dormant period, they continue to breathe, grow and receive the necessary nutrients. The dug out planting material of daffodils also breathes, so you should not delay transplanting for more than 2 months.

Important! Do not remove yellowed and withered foliage, so that it is easier to find a place to plant the bulbs when transplanting.

The need for a procedure every year

It is not recommended to replant flowers annually. Transplantation should be carried out no earlier than after 3-5 years, when the bulbs will be crowded. Babies can form from the mother bulb, depending on the variety and growing conditions, from 2 to 5 pieces in one growing season.

For additional planting material, it is allowed to dig bulbs after 3 years. With an annual transplant, they can weaken, stop blooming for 2 years. To achieve strong and abundantly flowering plants, it is necessary to replant no earlier than after 6 years. The main signs for transplantation will be small inflorescences, growth retardation and the appearance of diseases and pests on flowers.

An annual transplant is allowed if the bulbs are sick. After digging, they must be carefully examined, sick children removed and treated with a special solution.

Digging Precautions

Major precautions must be taken when digging out planting material so as not to damage the bulbs with a sharp tool. And also after digging the material.

Precautions include:

It is better to dig the bulbs with a sharp spatula or a garden fork, deepening them into the ground so as not to damage them, along with an earthen clod.
After digging, cut off the foliage with a sharp knife, and the roots should not be cut until they are completely dry.
Shake off the material from the ground without separating from each other and place in storage.
You can not leave them in an open sunny place so that they do not burn out from the sun.
After they dry out a little, separate them from each other and use your hands to remove the excess remnants of the earth.
Separate the daughter bulbs from the mother bulbs after they dry out. so as not to spoil them.

If, separating the daughter children from the maternal material is damaged, the fracture site can be sprinkled with wood ash. To avoid rot or deterioration during storage. Wounded babies treated with ash are best stored separately from whole heads.

Important! If the flowers have been growing for 6-7 years in one place, without transplanting, so as not to cut the bulbs, it is better to use a large shovel. Landings can grow and occupy a large area.

Bulb storage rules

The bulbs, after being removed from the soil, are left for 5-10 minutes in the fresh air so that they dry out. It is better to choose a slightly shaded place to avoid sunburn. If the weather is rainy, they are transferred to a closed room, with good air ventilation for ventilation.

After that, they must be placed in an underground or cellar with an optimum temperature of 15-18 degrees, and a humidity of 60 percent. Before lowering into the cellar, the bulbs are sorted by type and placed in wooden boxes or special pallets, you can shift the layers with paper. Do not store in closed bags, otherwise they will rot.

There must be vents in the underground so that fresh air enters freely. If it is damp, you can put a fan to circulate the air. Inspect the material daily for rot or disease. Remove rotten heads immediately so that the infection does not go to healthy onions. It is not allowed to store them for a long time, the shelf life should be about a month.

Is processing necessary?

Strong and healthy daffodil bulbs do not require additional processing. To be sure and avoid rot, planting material can be soaked for 10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Cleaned heads of daffodils, before storage, can be poisoned from worms and other pests with a solution of Karbofos. To do this, prepare a solution for 2 liters of pure water, add 2 ml. drug. Place the material in the prepared solution and soak for half an hour. Then dry them thoroughly and send them to storage in the room before planting.

Terms of planting in the ground

The most optimal time for planting daffodils in the ground is autumn, late August, early September. During this period, the bulbs will have time to take root and not start growing. In each region, it is necessary to observe the time when frosts occur. You can independently calculate, 3 weeks before the first frost is the most favorable time.

If the planting took place at the end of September, beginning of October, you can cover the seedlings from above for the winter with a layer of dry foliage, tops no more than 15 cm. To be sure of the safety of the crops.

It is better to choose a new place, where the rested land is. It is better not to plant in the former place where daffodils grew. For 3 years, the soil is depleted, it may contain harmful microorganisms, the flowers will not grow well.

A hole is dug according to the size of the bulb, about 20 cm. If fast flowering is required, it is enough to deepen it by 5-10 cm. A layer of sand, humus soil and 1 tablespoon of mineral fertilizer are laid on the bottom of it. Having formed a drainage layer, the bulb is placed in a hole and sprinkled with a layer of soil on top, compacting it a little. When planting, it is important to keep a distance between the material of at least 10-15 cm. If different varieties of flowers are planted, you can deepen pegs with the name of the variety into the ground next to the heads.

Important! The narcissus bulb is poisonous, all work and contact with them should be done with rubber gloves.

Now there is a huge selection of varietal daffodils that will delight their owner with colorful paints during flowering in early spring. By giving them proper care and following all the rules of planting, the plant will be strong and healthy, will not be exposed to diseases and pests.

Gave a room daffodil! It is fading ... what to do with it next? and got the best answer

Answer from? M@rin@ ?[guru]
Narcissus is not a houseplant. He was forcibly forced to bloom at this time at home by distillation.
After flowering, cut off the peduncle and leave in a pot until the leaves completely wither. At the same time water a little.
When the leaves dry, remove from the pot, dry and store in the refrigerator until AUTUMN planting in the garden.
The second time in a row (like after 2 weeks!) They don’t plant - the bulb is completely exhausted by distillation. In order to get a full-fledged hyacinth bulb suitable for flowering again, it is necessary to plant it outside according to all the rules. And only a year later you will be able to grow at home.

Answer from 2 answers[guru]

Hey! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: They gave a room daffodil! It is fading ... what to do with it next?

Answer from Elena[newbie]
Hello. 2 months unemployed. Almost all the time I'm stuck in the country, I come to the employment fund 2 times a month.

Answer from Anna Brin[guru]
When it blooms and begins to dry out, dig up, cut off the greens and put in a dry place for 4 weeks. Then in the refrigerator for 2 weeks at a temperature of about 0 degrees. And you can plant it again, it should grow and bloom again.

Answer from Julia[newbie]
daffodils. CARE.
Care for daffodils begins in early spring, when it is necessary to review overwintered plants and remove weak and sick ones. During the period of growth and flowering, the ground under daffodils should be regularly loosened, weeded, and regularly watered.
The soil for planting should be prepared in advance and at the same time apply the main fertilizer. The best fertilizer for daffodils is decomposed humus or compost soil (8-10 kg per 1 sq. M.). It is not bad to add a handful of bone meal under each bulb, which will supply phosphorus for the intensive formation and nutrition of the roots. When re-digging, phosphate fertilizers are also applied in the form of bone meal or superphosphate (60 g per 1 sq. M.).
When growing daffodils, the nutritional requirements of these flowers must be considered. With proper care, daffodils are fed several times during the season. In order for fertilizers to be better absorbed, the first top dressing is carried out when the snow has not yet melted. At this time, a full fertilizer with a high nitrogen content and equal parts of phosphorus and potassium (NPK) is applied in a ratio of 2:1:1. The amount of fertilizer per 1 sq.m. - 100g. Before flowering, a second top dressing is carried out in the same amount, but with an increased content of phosphorus, proportions (NPK) 1:2:1. The third top dressing falls on the flowering period, is applied in smaller quantities (30 g per 1 square meter), the ratio of phosphorus and potassium (PK) is 1:1.
A bouquet of daffodils looks very impressive, so these flowers are often grown for sale for the spring holidays. The experience of growing daffodils for cutting shows that cutting does not affect the development of the bulbs, and if we want to get high-quality planting material for forcing, then cutting flowers is even useful. It is especially important in this case to prevent the ripening of seed pods.
Bulbs of daffodils develop slowly. Full development occurs only in the third year, the most intensive flowering occurs at the same time, so it is not recommended to dig daffodils earlier than three years after planting. In one place, daffodils grow well for 3-5 years and they do not need frequent transplantation.
If necessary, daffodil bulbs can be dug up when the leaves turn completely yellow and dry. The dug out bulbs are laid out in one row to dry in the shade or in a room with a temperature not lower than +20 degrees C. Before storing, the bulbs of daffodils are cleaned, inspected and the unfavorable ones are removed. If daughter bulbs are found, they should not be torn off from the mother bulbs. This can lead to illness. The kids will separate themselves when the time comes. Bulbs are stored until planting at a temperature of 16-18 degrees C.

Growing beautiful daffodils in the garden

Growing daffodils in the country is very popular, both among gardeners and urban gardeners and landscape designers. Thanks to the delicate flowers that begin to bloom in early spring and become the first decoration of the garden, they are called "garden snowdrops".

Daffodils are not demanding for care, but they need an individual approach, which is why growing questions arise: when to cut daffodils and whether they need to be dug up after flowering.

The best varieties of daffodils for the garden

When buying, be sure to pay attention to what type and variety the planting material belongs to. Consider the most common in Russia.

Daffodils tubular (lat. Trumpet narcissus)

In the center of a rather large, single flower is a crown resembling a bell. It can combine yellow and white or have one of the shades.

Large-cupped narcissus (lat. Large-cupped narcissus)

Single flower, but with a shorter crown and an unusual color of the crown and perianth shading it.

Small-cupped narcissus (lat. Small-cupped narcissus)

Flowers have wild, non-cultivated forms, are not popular due to their small size, but are resistant to pests and major diseases. Often new varieties with improved decorative features appear, as breeding work is carried out in the direction of this group.

Terry daffodils (lat. Narcissus double)

Elegant, chic varieties that can be called gift. Large double flowers can be single, and several pieces on the peduncle.

Daffodils triandrus (lat. Triandrus narcissus)

Multi-flowered daffodils in yellow and white. There are few varieties in the group and they practically do not have differences.

Choosing planting material

Narcissus reproduces by dividing the bulbs, which can be single-top (one top and one bottom) and multi-top (have several tops with a common bottom). If possible, it is better to choose the second option, since when planting planting material with one vertex, only one stem will develop. Multi-top bulbs can be divided for propagation by cutting them with a knife along with the bottom and sprinkling the slices with ashes. Such "delenki" must be kept in the shade for several days before planting.

Bulbs are best purchased in mid-August, three months after flowering. In the southern regions, daffodils bloom earlier, and therefore the date of their acquisition is closer to mid-summer.

When choosing bulbs, you need to pay attention to their elasticity and density, they should not be too soft. The bottom should ideally be clean and whole, the necks should be smooth and dense, with no signs of rot.

Bulbs that are dug up with the rest of the stem or sold with flowers. It is better not to take a bulb that has begun to germinate and a young sprout has already appeared. Poor planting material also includes multi-top, with a large number of "daughters" bulbs.

Preparation and planting of daffodils in open ground

In order for the cultivation of daffodils in the country to be successful and the flowering to be lush, it is important to choose the right time and place for planting. Also, for these flowers, the neighborhood is important, as well as which plants were previously grown at the planting site.

Choosing a landing site for daffodils

For planting daffodils, a place well-lit by the sun or light partial shade is suitable. Also, one of the conditions is good protection from wind and drafts - then the flower will be large, and the flowering will be long.

Narcissus is not picky about the soil, it can grow on sandstone and loam. The soil is prepared a week before planting, the flower bed is dug up to a depth of at least 30 cm.

For cultivation in clay soils, sand is added (2 buckets per 1 sq.m.), and humus is added to sandy soils (2-3 buckets per 1 sq.m.).

Fertilizer when planting daffodils

Narcissists like organic fertilizers, but they cannot tolerate fresh manure and manure, so it can be applied to the soil a year before planting. This is usually done at the same time as digging, so the preparation of the flower garden should be planned long before planting.

Daffodils should not be grown in a place where they have been growing for 3-4 years, the ground needs a rest for 5-6 years. It is also recommended to avoid planting on the site of asters, phloxes or chrysanthemums, as well as other bulbous flowers - gladioli, lilies, amaryllis, dahlias, callas.

Planting daffodils in open ground

Holes for planting bulbs are prepared from the size of the planting material. Usually the depth is made three times more, and the width is about one and a half. If the autumn turns out to be dry, the plantings are shed once with water.

Daffodils - cultivation and care

With proper preparation and planting, the culture rarely gets sick, is not demanding on climatic conditions and fertilizers. Therefore, caring for daffodils will not be difficult.

Feeding daffodils

Feeding daffodils does not require variety. Fertilizer during the appearance of sprouts, ovary buds and flowering, you can use the same thing, for example, nitrophoska. During the germination period, it is applied at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m., during the period of bud formation and flowering, 50-60 g per 1 sq.m.

After flowering, the plants are fed only with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium, mixing them in equal parts and fertilizing the garden bed 50-60 g per 1 sq.m. Fertilizers are best applied together with watering the plants, after which it is useful to slightly loosen the soil.

Watering daffodils

Narcissus loves abundant watering, approximately 2 buckets per 1 sq.m. The plant does not tolerate stagnant water, like many bulbs, so the soil must have good drainage. After flowering, it is necessary to continue watering, since it is during this period that the bulbs are stored with minerals for the next season.

Caring for daffodils after flowering

After the plant has faded, care for it does not end - it is necessary to prepare for the next season. Caring for daffodils after flowering is not difficult, but mandatory.

Do I need to prune daffodils after flowering?

In the case when the bulbs of daffodils remain to winter in their place, their yellowed dried leaves can be carefully raked with a small rake, or braided with "pigtails". If the bulbs are to be dug up, the foliage should be left to determine the location of the bulb so that the digging goes without loss.

Leaf pruning is generally undesirable, and can be done after digging or in the process; the only thing that should be removed without fail is wilted flower stalks.

When to dig up daffodils after flowering

Each gardener decides for himself how often he will dig and replant daffodils. Basically, they do this every 3-4 years, covering the plantings from freezing for the winter with a layer of peat. In this case, when re-planting the bulbs, it is necessary to choose a new place for the daffodil bed to comply with the crop rotation.

Some flower growers prefer to dig out the bulbs every year, thereby conducting an "audit" of the planting material. This option is inconvenient, as it creates additional trouble in the summer season, and the bulbs are very poorly stored outside the soil.

On the other hand, annual digging makes it possible each time to plan the planting of daffodils in a new way, sort them by type, treat them for pests and divide the bulbs to obtain new planting material.

In fact, transplanting daffodils is necessary only when the planting has been in the same place for several years, the flowers grow and shrink, and it is time to divide and sort the bulbs.

Knowing exactly when to dig up daffodils for replanting is difficult, as different varieties and growing conditions change the timing of flowering. It is recommended to pay attention to the behavior of the plant. Daffodils should be dug up after flowering, when the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and the bush begins to “fall apart”, lose its integrity. It is not necessary to wait until the leaves have completely died off, since during this period the bulbs can already give new roots, and digging or transplanting will damage them.

Transplanting daffodils in the summer from place to place is not desirable, as the bulbs will be weakened and will not tolerate adaptation well. If necessary, change the location of the flower beds, they are dug up, and planting is carried out next year.

How to store daffodil bulbs

After digging, the bulbs are dried, damaged and rotten are discarded and treated with a weak solution of manganese. After this procedure, the bulbs are again dried in the shade for several days, then stored in a wooden box or box until September, the optimal time for planting daffodils.

The best storage temperature for bulbs is plus 17-18 degrees Celsius. Before planting for 2-3 days, it should be lowered to plus 9 degrees.

Outcome

Caring for daffodils is not complicated, and their beauty and grace are appreciated by many landscape designers and flower growers. Having provided the flowers with the necessary conditions, you can be proud of the beautiful flower bed that decorates your garden and attracts the admiring glances of guests and neighbors.

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Nadezhda Filatova 09/25/2015 | 3314

Unpretentious daffodils tolerate even very severe frosts well, and in the spring they are one of the first to delight with their abundant flowering. Learn how to properly plant daffodil bulbs outdoors.

A short dormant period makes it possible to plant daffodil bulbs in open ground one of the first - already in August. Landing must be completed no later than mid-October. This is necessary so that before the onset of severe frosts, the bulbs have time to take root well, but not hatch, otherwise the plants will die. The optimum soil temperature for planting is 8-10°C.

If you didn't have time to plant daffodils before the end of October, don't worry. Bulbs can also be planted later, but in this case they will need to be mulched with dry leaves, spruce branches or sawdust.

How to prepare daffodil bulbs for planting

When buying planting material, pay attention to the appearance of the bulbs. They must be tight, without visible mechanical or any other damage, mold, rotten areas and holes near the bottom.

Be very careful with the delicate and fragile roots of daffodils. If they are damaged or torn off, the bulb will most likely die, because new roots will not have time to form.

Another mandatory preparatory stage - disinfection. To prevent the appearance of rot and fungal diseases, you need to pickle the bulbs in a solution of any fungicide (Maxim, Skor, Fundazol, Vitaros, etc.).

How to prepare a solution of the drug Maxim at home

Pour 1 liter of clean water into a deep bowl, carefully cut the package with the drug, pour it into the water and mix thoroughly with a wooden stick or a disposable stirrer. The solution should be bright red.

Alternatively, you can pickle the bulbs in a common solution. It is enough to hold the bulbs in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for no more than 30 minutes.

How to choose the right place for planting daffodils

If you bought varietal pink or orange daffodils, then it is better to plant them in partial shade, otherwise the flowers may burn out. The best place for planting all other varieties is calm and well-lit areas.

Compositions of bright daffodils look great along hedges, fences and in near-stem circles of fruit trees. Daffodils begin to bloom much earlier than the first foliage appears on the trees, so they will have enough light.

You should not choose low-lying areas for planting daffodils, where melt water stagnates, and the soil does not have time to dry out. In such places, the bulbs may begin to rot or mold.

What kind of soil do daffodils need?

Daffodils are unpretentious, therefore they can grow on almost any soil. But still, in order for the flowering to be lush and plentiful, it is better to plant the bulbs in nutritious loamy or sandy loamy soil.

poor sandy soil before planting daffodils must be made more nutritious. To do this, you need to add humus (at the rate of 15 kg per 1 sq.m), compost (5-7 kg per 1 sq.m) or rotted manure (20 kg per 1 sq.m) into it. Fresh manure can only be added in advance: a year and a half before the planned planting.
To do clay soils suitable for planting daffodils, it is necessary to add coarse sand at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq.m. Additionally, you can pour a little sand on the bottom of the hole.

How to plant daffodil bulbs outdoors

Bulbs of daffodils can be planted in special baskets for bulbs and just in the ground. In any case, the planting depth should be three times the height of the bulb.

Using a bulb planter, make holes 10 cm apart.

If you need to additionally drain the soil, pour a 1-1.5 cm layer of coarse sand on the bottom. Place the bulb in the bottom of the hole and cover with soil. You can also plant daffodils in neat rows.

Bulbs of daffodils can be planted less often, at a distance of 15 and even 20 cm from each other. In this case, the baby will grow much faster.

Before the onset of stable frosts, daffodils must be covered with spruce branches, foliage, peat, sawdust or straw.

What to do when daffodils have faded?

Peduncles are best cut before the formation of a seed box on them. The green leaves of daffodils should not be touched, but the withered and yellowed ones must be removed. Bulbs do not need to be dug up annually - they can grow in one place for up to 5 years. And so that the flower bed remains beautiful all summer, in May, you can sow the seeds of annuals on it.

Properly planting daffodils in open ground in the fall, you can enjoy their beautiful flowering next spring.

In the spring, the gardens are filled with delicate and lovely bulbous daffodils. In late winter - early spring, flower shops sell them in pots. This is a great gift for International Women's Day or any other holiday. For example, why not grow daffodils at home and decorate the New Year's table with them? The nuances of growing daffodils at home in pots, how to plant and care for them, when to forcing them so that they bloom by March 8, on Valentine's Day or another holiday? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

It is important! About four months are needed for forcing daffodils. That is, from planting the bulb in a pot to flowering, about 4 months will pass. Therefore, to get flowers by February 14, plant in October, forcing daffodils by March 8 - in November, and by the New Year - at the end of August. But experienced gardeners came up with ACCELERATE forcing of daffodils for 2 months, the technology of which you can read below.

It is not difficult to grow daffodils in an apartment, but in order for the bulbs to germinate and the flowers to turn out beautiful, certain conditions are necessary:

Air temperature after planting the bulbs until the sprouts appear, it should be +3..+9 degrees. The emerging sprouts are transferred to a warmer place with a temperature of about +10 degrees. After a few days, they can be transferred to a room where the air temperature is +15..+18 degrees. At higher temperatures, leaves and buds will wilt, and flowering will be short-lived.
Lighting for daffodils good, but without direct sunlight is required. In winter, when the days are short, it is recommended to illuminate the plants in the morning and in the evening.
Air humidity- not less than 70%. To do this, in an apartment with running batteries around the flowers, they place containers with water and cover the heating radiators with wet rags. You can spray the air around the plants.

If you can provide flowers with such conditions, feel free to grow daffodils at home in a pot.

Varieties and photos of daffodils for growing at home

Thanks to the breeders who bring out more and more new varieties of various plants. Thanks to them, southern crops can be grown in regions with a cold climate, and outdoor plants can be grown at home.

There are varieties of daffodils that are adapted to grow and bloom indoors in pots. Of these, the most popular beautiful and unpretentious:

Snowball (Snowball) - white flowers are distinguished by a lush crown that looks like a ball. The buds are about 8 cm in diameter.

In the photo, daffodils of the Snowball variety Snowball

Avalanche (Avalanche) - the variety is interesting in the arrangement of flowers. Up to 10 flowers with white petals and a golden yellow crown are formed on one stem.

In the photo, daffodils of the Avalanche variety (Avalanche)

Ziva (Ziva) - plant height can reach from 15 to 50 cm (depending on the species). Flowers pale white, up to 10 per stem.

In the photo, daffodils of the Ziva variety (Ziva)

February Gold (Ferbruary Gold) - an interesting variety, the flowers of which consist of pointed yellow petals and the same color of a terry crown. The diameter of the buds is about 8 cm, the height of the plant is up to 30 cm.

In the photo are daffodils of the February Gold variety (Ferbruary Gold)

Magnet - large flowers up to 14 cm in diameter bloom on stems up to 50 cm long. Their pale yellow petals brighten towards the edges, and the crown is bright yellow.

In the photo, daffodils of the Magnet variety (Magnet)

Papery (Papyraceus) - the name of this variety of daffodils speaks for itself, since the flowers on it are white, like a sheet of paper. They have a diameter of only 3 cm, but up to 11 buds are formed on each peduncle. This is one of the most unpretentious varieties, the forcing of which is the easiest. The bulbs do not need to be cold-treated, and potted sprouts will appear in two to six weeks.

In the photo, a variety of daffodils Papery Papyraceus

Advice! Plant identical varieties of daffodils in the same pot. Then the flowers will bloom at the same time, and you will get a beautiful bouquet. The fact is that different varieties have different growing seasons.

Bulb selection

For planting daffodils at home in a pot, planting material should be carefully selected. Bulb requirements:

firm onions without damage, rot and signs of disease;
give preference to large, large bulbs;
roots should feel firm to the touch.

Attention! If you are forcing daffodils by a certain date, keep in mind that if the bulb has no roots, it will take an additional 2 weeks or so. The onions will need to be soaked for two weeks in a solution of any growth stimulant and placed in the vegetable section of the refrigerator, a frost-free cellar or on a glazed loggia. Do not submerge the bulbs completely in the solution. Pour it into a flat container and place the onions so that only the bottom is in the growth stimulator.

It is best to plant the bulbs immediately after purchase, otherwise they may dry out at home. If this is not possible, store them in a cool dry and dark place.

Pot and soil selection

You can plant tulip bulbs for growing at home not only in a pot. They will look beautiful in a wide planter, basket, low vase. However, the container must have drainage holes and certain dimensions:

for low daffodils, pick up a pot up to 15 cm high, since their onions are small;
for ordinary varieties, containers about 30 cm high are used;
for growing one bulb, the diameter of the pot should be 15-20 cm;
when planting several bulbs in one container, make sure that they all fit freely, and there is still some room around for the soil from which the roots will draw nutrients.

Too large slides for planting daffodils are not recommended. A lot of soil around the bulb is a direct path to its decay. It is even better if the onions are cramped.

Attention! The height of the pot is easy to choose according to the size of the onions. Under the bottom there should be 3-5 cm of earth, and the onions should be covered with soil by 2/3 of the part. Add to this another layer of drainage and get the height of the pot necessary for planting daffodils.

soil in the store choose for bulbous flowers. If you use garden soil, mix it with sand or sawdust and disinfect with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin diluted according to the instructions. The result should be loose soil.

Be sure to prepare drainage. It can be perlite, expanded clay, broken shards or even small pieces of foam.

Forcing daffodils in a pot: planting and care step by step with video

Before planting in a pot, daffodil bulbs are recommended to be disinfected for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

And now ATTENTION ! In order for daffodils to bloom in a pot about 2 months after planting, place the bottom of the bulbs for two weeks in a solution of any growth stimulator and keep in a cool place. The vegetable section of the refrigerator or a room with the same temperature will do. After that, you can start landing.

How to plant daffodils in a pot and care for them after planting:

Pour the first layer into the pot drainage(3-4 cm), which we cover with soil. soil layer should be about 5 cm for large onions and a little less for small ones.
Carefully we press the bulbs with the bottom down and cover them with soil so that the upper third part remains uncovered.
Arrange the onions almost close to each other, but not back to back. There should be a very small distance between them, otherwise they can be affected by fungal diseases.
Pour sand between the bulbs. He will protect them from decay.
Water planting settled water.
Cover the pots with a dark cloth and place to a cool place from +2 to +9 degrees.
Keep track of soil moisture. Maybe during rooting for a month, it will need to be moistened a little two or three times.
As soon as the sprouts appear and reach a height of 3-4 cm, remove the shelter and place the pots of daffodils in a bright place with a temperature of +10 degrees. Attention! If immediately placed in a warm room, the peduncle may stretch out or even the bulb may not bloom.
After 3-4 days put daffodils in pots in the room and you can wait for flowers.

With proper planting and care during the forcing period, daffodils will bloom in 24-30 days. It all depends on the type of flowers.

Advice! To get a lawn of daffodils that blooms for a long time at home, plant varieties of different ripening periods in several pots.

WATCH THE VIDEO - HOW TO PLANT DAFRICASSES ON FORCESS IN POTS

Care during flowering for a narcissus in a pot

Caring for flowering daffodils consists in timely watering, rare feeding and providing plants with the conditions that are described at the beginning of our article.

Do not moisten the earth often. Water only when the soil is dry, otherwise the bulbs may start to rot.

Most often, during forcing, daffodils are not fed, as there are enough nutrients in the bulbs. You can feed the plants a little after the emergence of sprouts and during budding with a solution of mineral fertilizers for bulbous flowers.

By the way! Daffodils will bloom at home longer if they are provided with cool conditions, that is, a temperature of about +12 degrees. The warmer it is in the apartment, the sooner the flowers will wither.

Caring for daffodils after flowering

Care for daffodils, after they have not faded, is practically not necessary. Water the plants as the soil dries out until they wilt. Then cut off the peduncle, cover the container with a cloth and put the pot in a cool room. It will be necessary to store them there until the end of summer, after which they can be planted in a flower bed in the garden.

It is recommended to use daffodil bulbs for distillation once. The second time the quality of flowering may be worse.

Forcing daffodils in pots by March 8, Valentine's Day, New Year's is not difficult, especially if you have all the conditions for growing them in your house.

When growing daffodils, many beginner growers often have questions: “Do I need to prune daffodils when they have faded?”, Why prune daffodils - what is special?” etc. In this article, we will tell you when to prune daffodils after flowering, and how to do it so as not to harm them.

After the end of flowering daffodils, they should not be touched. They should remain growing in the form of green bushes, without flowers. During this period, the bulbs of plants store nutrients, so the leaves should not be cut until they are completely dry.

Further, your actions will depend on whether you want to leave them for the winter in the soil or dig them up for transplanting. Do not forget that, despite the resistance to frost, in a very cold season and snowless winter months, the bulbs in the ground can suffer. Especially often they suffer with the advent of the first thaws. Bulbs react to warming, wake up and release the first sprouts. But subsequent frosts on the ground can destroy barely germinated shoots.

When to prune daffodils after flowering for the winter?

When the plants bloom, they need to be fertilized. Choose a fertilizer with a high percentage of phosphorus and potassium. Now you need to wait until the leaves are completely dry, then remove them and loosen the soil. There is an opinion that daffodils are unpretentious and do well without covering before winter, but it is erroneous. In particular, plants need this if they were planted in the 2nd half of September. This is a late planting, because, before the onset of cold weather, the flowers do not have time to fully adapt and may not survive in a frosty snowless winter.

The most vulnerable to frost are varieties of daffodils with large flowers. To protect them from freezing, cover the flowers with dry fallen leaves, peat, dry grass, wood ash or special mulching materials (for example, agrofibre). The soil needs to be mulched before frost hits. How to properly mulch the soil can be found in the article:. It is possible to remove the mulch layer only in the spring, when there will be no sudden changes in temperature and the risk of frost on the street.

If you plan to keep daffodils in the winter at home.

When cutting daffodils after flowering is required for their home maintenance, it is not necessary to wait for the leaves to die. Bulbs need to be dug in late June, early July. When you notice that the edges of the leaves began to turn yellow and the bushes fall apart. The process can be lengthy, depending on how wet the summer is. Some growers do not wait for the leaves to dry out - digging up the bulbs earlier, because of the high probability of being hit by a daffodil fly. And indeed, it is better not to delay digging up the onions, since after the leaves die off, it will be more difficult to detect them in the ground.

After digging, cut off the remains of the leaves and dry the bulbs in a dark, dry place. After drying the bulbs, treat their damaged parts. The rest - you need to rinse in running water and put in a strong solution of manganese for disinfection. Let the onions stay there for up to 10 minutes, and again put them to dry in a dark place.

In one place, daffodils can grow up to 9 years. However, when the bush becomes large and stops blooming, it needs a transplant. In addition, some of the varieties themselves require an annual transplant, for example: double or tubular daffodil. So they will better preserve varietal characteristics. In addition, daffodils planted in peat soil should be replanted annually.

Caring for daffodils must be continued after the delicate flowers wither. This period is very important in the life of the plant, as it has a decisive influence on flowering in the next season.

Pruning the leaves of faded daffodils

Dried flower stalks should be removed immediately, as soon as the flowers wither, if there is no question of obtaining seed material for propagation. This is done in order to prevent the formation of seeds that will take away the vital juices from the bulbs. Old flower stalks are carefully cut off near the ground with secateurs, garden shears, or simply broken out with your hands.

Withered daffodil flowers are removed immediately after flowering.

Foliage must be left to its natural withering and drying. Photosynthesis continues in the leaves, as a result of which nutrients are supplied to the bulb. If they are cut ahead of time, then this stock will be small, the plant will weaken and may die in winter, or flowering will be poor.

Narcissus leaves continue to supply nutrients to the bulb, so they are not pruned until they are completely wilted and yellow.

Usually, the ground part of a daffodil dries up completely 6-8 weeks after flowering, then it can be safely removed.

Some gardeners practice braiding narcissus leaves into knots, which are laid on the ground between other crops, without spoiling the view of the entire flower bed.

Braided foliage of daffodils fits between other plants and does not spoil the look of the flower bed

Video: remove faded daffodil flower stalks

Feeding daffodils after flowering

To help the bulb ripen and effectively form flower buds, you can competent top dressing. The best option during this period are fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus:

It is important not to overdo it with mineral supplements. It is believed that their excess negatively affects the winter hardiness of the bulbs.

Until the foliage of daffodils turns yellow, they need to be watered along with the rest of the flowers in the flower bed.

For about 2-3 weeks after flowering, while the leaves of the daffodils are still completely green, I continue to water them along with the rest of the flowers. As soon as the first signs of drying are outlined, I gradually stop watering.

Bulbs of daffodils: when it's time to dig

The time of digging up daffodils is determined by the condition of the foliage. When it completely dies and dries out, the bulbs can be removed from the ground.

Daffodils are dug up when the tops wither and turn yellow

Do not wait for the moment when the leaves completely fall off. It becomes difficult to determine the exact location of the bulbs, and when digging, they can be accidentally damaged.

It is impossible to be late with digging, because daffodils can re-root and then react extremely painfully to this procedure. Most often they are taken out of the ground in late June or early July, and then stored in a cool place for about two months. But you can land immediately after the separation of the bushes. If there is no need to transplant and divide nests, then daffodils are not dug up, but left in the ground.

Usually daffodils are dug up in late June or early July.

A few years ago, by chance, at a sale, I bought several varietal daffodil bulbs. I got them quite inexpensively, because autumn was already in full swing and the time for planting bulbs had passed. It had to be planted in practically frozen soil, because there was nowhere to store it until spring. Everything bloomed in the spring. I did not dig up the bulbs and every year there were more and more flowers. After 4 years, it became clear that the nests had grown and it was time to share with neighbors.

Dividing and transplanting daffodil bulbs

Narcissus is one of those bulbous crops that do not require an annual transplant.. They grow well in one place for at least 5-6 years, sometimes even more.

Daffodils can grow in one place for 5-6 years

Some new cultivars and hybrids are transplanted every summer to better preserve varietal traits.

The need for dividing and planting a bush arises when the crushing of flowers is clearly noticeable and the number of peduncles is reduced. At the same time, the leaf mass falls apart in different directions, forming untidy thickets.

You need to transplant daffodils when there are few flowers and they are small

Works are carried out according to the following technology:

The bulbs removed from the ground are carefully shaken off the remnants of the soil and laid out for drying in a well-ventilated, dry and shaded place for 2–3 days. Dry leaves are pre-cut, living roots are left.
In dug daffodils, the foliage is cut off, the roots are left
Mother bulbs are disassembled and separated. Some children separate on their own, and some have to be broken off. The fracture site must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ash to prevent infection.
The mother bulb needs to be divided
All diseased, weak and suspicious specimens are discarded.
Specimens damaged by narcissus fly must be destroyed
Healthy daffodils are planted immediately or stored in a cool, dry place until August (1.5–2 months). They are planted in holes with a depth equal to three diameters of the onion, and at a distance of at least 10-12 cm between them.
The bulb is planted at a depth equal to three of its diameters.
The seat is filled with ash mixed with dry sand (1/3 cup per bulb) and any mineral complex fertilizer (1 tsp per bulb).
After transplanting, the daffodil bulbs need to be well watered.

If the transplant is made no later than the beginning of September, then the daffodils will be able to take root well before the cold weather. Later planted plants will need to be covered for the winter with a layer of mowed grass, straw, peat or dry foliage.

Late-planted daffodil bulbs are best covered for the winter with a layer of dry foliage.

It is allowed to store the bulbs in a cool (about 0 ° C) dark room until spring. A cellar or basement is most suitable for this purpose, but a refrigerator can also be used (no more than two months). Before laying for storage, planting material is disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate and treated with insecticidal preparations (Karbofos, Fufanon, etc.).

Video: when it's time to transplant daffodils

Competent care for faded daffodils will help the plants recover quickly, gain strength, winter well and again delight their owners with delicate and fragile spring flowers.

Show all

Care after flowering

pruning;
top dressing;
planting bulbs.

All useful substances from the leaves descend into the bulbs. As soon as they dry naturally, cut and burn.

Cultures in containers

When are daffodils transplanted?

It is acceptable to remove heads for transplanting if the leaves are not completely wilted. It takes place in the middle of summer. Be very careful not to damage the bulbs.

Care for lilies after flowering - is it possible to cut the shoots?

Color division

Before planting, the soil is dug to a great depth and all rocky inclusions and debris are removed. If necessary, make humus. The onions are pre-soaked in a fungicide solution for 2-3 hours..

Shelter for the winter

bulb storage

Do not place tulip and hyacinth bulbs next to each other. They are also perennials, but with different storage requirements.

Daffodils are bright and delicate garden daffodils that delight the gardener's eye year after year. This flower is able to overwinter and bloom with renewed vigor in the spring. But when the daffodils have faded, what to do next?

It is also equally important to rid the site of. It is desirable to fertilize the soil well with organic matter, for example, use a lot or rotted. After fertilizing the plot, respecting the depth of the bayonet.

Did you know?Narcissus essential oil has long been used in perfumery. Its popularity was based on its gentle and intoxicating aroma. Since the advent of synthetic and cheaper flavorings, the daffodil has been largely abandoned.

Landing pattern

To plant daffodil bulbs, you need to dig holes, the depth of each of them should be three times the diameter of the bulb itself. Compost is poured into the bottom of the hole, after which the bulb is placed.

The sharp tip of the bulb should always point upwards. After that, the hole is covered with earth and watered abundantly.

In the case when daffodils are planted in order to get a lot of babies, it is recommended to plant them in an ordinary way, keeping a distance of 15-20 cm between the holes. If the distance is less (10-12 cm), fewer babies will form, but the bulbs will be larger ones.

This option is suitable for elite varieties of daffodils that are transplanted every year. Also a good option for group planting is a "tight circle". So you can create a composition that looks like a beautiful blooming bouquet.

Aftercare

Since caring for daffodils, especially at first, is very important, there are some important points to keep in mind.

The soil must be regularly moistened and loosened. Mulch (peat or) or a layer can be used as top dressing. You can also cover the area with a layer of dry foliage, this works especially well in snowless winters. In the spring, foliage is removed from the site.

Separation of bulbs after flowering

For several years, the bulbs grow and become crowded. The mother bulb multiplies, creating around itself a cluster of small bulbs, which are called babies. In this regard, the number and size of flowers may decrease, because the nutrients go to the bulbs, which is why separation and transplanting is so important.

To form stronger, developed bulbs, buds and flowers are cut off on many bulbous plants. Tulip, narcissus, hyacinth inflorescences are cut immediately after flowering to prevent excessive depletion of plants.

At the same time, the tulip leaves 1-2 leaves, the narcissus and hyacinth have all the leaves.

Hyacinth must be dug out of the soil every year, this is done by hand when the leaves turn yellow.

Bulbs of hyacinths are cleaned from the ground and placed in a row in boxes, leaving for preliminary drying for 2-3 days under a canopy. Then they are cleaned of excess scales, roots, growths on the bottom, a well-formed baby is separated.

Bulbs are stored at a temperature of 20 + 25 degrees in paper bags, to maintain an average humidity, they should be lightly sprayed with water or covered with a damp cloth.

Without a transplant, daffodils can grow in one place for 5 years, then it is advisable to plant them, because they grow strongly and form large nests of bulbs.

Daffodils are planted earlier than other bulbs at the end of August until the end of September!

Bulb planting depth 15 cm (on loam). If the soil is heavy - 12 cm, on light soils - 17 cm.

The distance between the bulbs of daffodils is 10-12 cm. With such a dense planting, the bulbs turn out to be large, with a rare planting, many children grow.

Tulips can be grown on one dream for 3-4 years. It cannot be returned to its original place earlier than after 2-3 years.

Tulips are planted in September - October, planting depth 12-15 cm, with a distance between the bulbs 18-20 cm.

Before a cold snap, peat or sawdust is sprinkled on the planted tulips, with a layer of 5 cm, and in the spring the mulch is not removed, but loosened.

The bulbs are harvested after the leaves have withered (end of June - beginning of July).

If possible, it is better to cut flowers from faded tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, if you do not plan to breed a new variety from seeds. Then the nutrients will fully enter the bulb and contribute to its growth and the laying of a new flower bud for the next year.

Not necessarily ... they must be cut when they begin to fade ... the bulbs will have time to ripen before the end of summer.

It is enough not to leave seed boxes, and if you cut flowers, then leave at least two leaves.

The main thing is not to cut the leaves, they feed through them.

It is advisable to cut after 4-5 days of flowering. But you can just cut off the seed pods.

Quite right. After flowering, the outflow of nutrients from the leaves goes into the bulb. All leaves do not need to be cut.

I never cut at all, cut off the seed pods, as they rightly said after flowering, and the bulb will gain strength from the leaves

Surely, more than once, flower lovers have thought about planting and growing certain flowers at home, because not everyone has summer cottages or garden plots. Here we look at self-care for daffodils at home - this flower is very popular because of its early flowering and unpretentious nature.

Growing this wonderful plant at home is not that difficult, and the patience that most flower lovers have is always worth the effort and patience.

Narcissus is a perennial bulbous plant of the Amaryllis family, which is very well suited for growing at home in pots and flowerpots. With proper care, timely feeding, the right choice of soil and conditions for the plant, it will delight you with its beautiful flowers and aroma in gratitude.

What varieties are best for home growing

Daffodils have many varieties, which affects the color and structure of their flowers. Today there are more than 30 of them and many more breeding subspecies. Different varieties have leaves of different lengths and widths, but the color of the bushes is always rich dark green.

The flowers are yellow, white and recently bred - pale pink color of the crown. The structure of the petals can be smooth or terry. Since the flowers of daffodils are located on separate peduncles, pruning them does not cause any damage to the bulbs themselves.

The pear-shaped bulbs of daffodils are very interesting. They have two regenerating buds in their structure. Moreover, these kidneys have two completely different stages of difference. Roots grow best and most intensively in autumn. Their life span is about 11 months, after this period they die off.

What specific varieties can we affect? The most common are Fortune, Magnet, Yellowsun, Ziva, Inbal.

Paper variety is widely used. This daffodil has a large number of white flowers located on one peduncle.

Planting and caring for daffodils at home

Self-care for daffodils at home is a painstaking task. Absolutely everything is important: the choice of bulbs, planting conditions, containers, soil, etc. But first things first.

First, consider how to choose bulbs for planting daffodils with the maximum result?

Firstly, it is important to carefully examine the bulbs outwardly. Their ideal color is uniform, without spots and specks. In appearance, they should be healthy and dense. Pay attention that there are no cracks, holes or rotten dark places.
Secondly, it is advisable to weigh each onion. For planting, bulbs from 6 g and above are best suited. Anything below this weight is more suitable for seedlings in the garden.

Do not forget that the bulb does not need to be buried in the soil entirely. A third of it should peek out of the ground. Planting is best in September. After planting the bulb, be sure to pour plenty of water and press the earth around the plant.

After planting the daffodil, the bulb pot is placed in a dark place for a period of 3 months. The temperature around should not exceed 10 degrees. As soon as the plant sprouts, you can safely move the pot to the windowsill by the window.

Pot selection

A pot or flowerpot for planting is necessarily covered with a lower, drainage layer of expanded clay, pebbles or brick fragments. Pots should not be very high.

It is recommended to choose flowerpots made of clay or ceramics, with obligatory holes at the bottom to allow excess water to escape. If the water stagnates, the plant may begin to rot. With stagnant moisture, the risk of fungal diseases also increases. Two or more bulbs can be planted in one pot, it all depends on its size.

Soil selection

You can purchase soil for planting at any flower shop, make sure that the package says “for daffodils”. But it is not necessary to use a purchased substrate. Ordinary garden soil is also suitable for filling flowerpots. The main thing is to add some sand, clay and sawdust to it. Be sure to make sure that the soil is soft, light, crumbly.

If you decide to take care of daffodils on your own indoors, keep in mind that indoors there are not many moments that are in open nature. It is unacceptable, for example, that soil particles stick together; there must be enough oxygen in the earth.

Otherwise, daffodils will be doomed to decay and fungal infections. Under natural conditions, the soil drains due to winds, rains, and worms. And at home, all these factors are absent and they need to be created artificially.

Choosing a place (which window is suitable, lighting)

Daffodils are not very capricious flowers in terms of care. There are a few basic rules to follow. The main thing is not to place the culture next to other types of flowers. Narcissus contains a certain amount of toxic substances, they can harm the more capricious plants growing nearby.

You do not need to eat narcissus, and then it is not at all dangerous. Therefore, make sure that it does not fall into the hands of children and in the food of animals.

The place for the flowerpot should be quite lit, but not in direct sunlight. Tender plants do not tolerate direct sun very well. Also, do not place the pot near heating radiators.

Temperature and Humidity

Do not forget about the temperature around and about the humidity of the air. These are very important indicators for the plant.

Normal, comfortable temperature for daffodils is within 18 degrees. The recommended humidity is about 50-60%.

If the level of humidity in the room is not enough, it is advisable to use purchased humidifiers. You can also put water on the heating radiator to increase the humidity in the room.

When flowers appear, it is advisable to move the pot to a cooler place. This will significantly increase the flowering period. The temperature at the time of flowering should be within 12 degrees.

Watering

It is very important to correctly approach the watering of the plant. It can not be filled with water, otherwise it will get sick with fungal diseases. Water as the soil dries and directly into the pan. With the beginning of flowering, watering is carried out more often, when flowering ends - more moderately. When the leaves turn yellow, watering stops.

During the growth period, flowers should be watered regularly, with settled water at room temperature.

Fertilizer

With home, self-care for daffodils, it is very important to apply fertilizers and top dressing in a timely manner.

In room conditions, this should be monitored no less than in the garden. It is best to use peat fertilizers or peat itself. This is done during the flowering period and after it.

Wood ash and minerals are the most suitable for fertilizing the soil in summer and autumn.

In spring, top dressing is done mainly with nitrogen-potassium fertilizers. For the first time after the appearance of sprouts, after - with the appearance of buds, about once every one and a half weeks. During the flowering period and when watering is stopped, fertilizing is not necessary.

What to do after flowering

Daffodils need your care even after flowering. Flowers are removed as they dry. When the bush has completely faded, the rest of the plant is also removed. You need to let them dry completely. During this period, watering is carried out moderately, as well as top dressing no more than once every ten days.

After complete withering, the supra-bulbous part is cut off, the bulbs themselves are carefully dug up, dried and stored in a dark, cool place. It would be useful to treat them with a Fungicide. They are no longer suitable for replanting in a pot. They can now be planted only in an open area in a garden plot or flower bed.

How to propagate home daffodil

The daffodil has two methods of reproduction - seeds and vegetative processes. To propagate daffodil with seeds means to get used to the fact that self-care for seedlings will last 6-7 years.

Dry the seeds before planting. Then they are soaked for a couple of hours in potassium permanganate and sown in pots.

Courtship occurs, as well as for onion seedlings at home. Until seedlings appear, keep the seed containers in a warm place under a greenhouse shelter. The soil is regularly moistened and ventilated.

At first, the sprouts are left in place so that the bulbs get stronger and give stronger roots. In the future, they are transplanted to a place where daffodils will grow constantly.

Please note that seed germination is not very high. This method is not recommended for beginners. It is complex, long and labor intensive.

The vegetative propagation method is simpler, it consists of two more options. The first is the separation of the babies from the mother bulb. They are seated separately. They continue to care, as well as grown bulbs.

The second method allows you to propagate daffodils using scales. To do this, select the largest bulbs and pre-dry them for about a week. After cutting them into pieces, having previously cut off the top. These shares are put in a bag and closed for 4 months. They are kept in this form, in a cool place, until the formation of small bulbs, which are then planted in pots and cared for.

Diseases and pests of daffodils

The most common pests are:

big daffodil fly,
bulbous root mite,
clickers,
onion hoverfly,
cabbage owl,
slugs - they harm mainly by hatching offspring, which eats either bulbs or stems and buds. Adults can be harmful too.

At home, not all types of these pests can start in plants. There is a risk only if the windows are constantly open in the house or there is an infected plant nearby.

Common diseases include fusarium, various types of rot, curvularia, bacterial scab, bacterial rot.

In almost all types of these infections, it is necessary to destroy the affected parts of the plants and avoid transmitting the disease to healthy plants.

Timely identified diseases, the use of insecticides and disinfectants will help protect your plants from any misfortunes. Proper storage and selection of healthy planting material is the key to healthy flowers that delight your eyes!

Having studied all this information, we come to the conclusion that self-care for daffodils at home is not difficult work, but it requires attentiveness, knowledge and love for plants. Daffodils flowers are unpretentious, but still afraid of diseases and pests.

Follow some simple rules for these beautiful flowers. You can surprise your acquaintances and friends with beauty on the windowsill, for example, in the winter season, or present a nice gift to your loved ones, say, by March 8th. Love and care for plants and they will certainly answer you with their beauty and fragrant aromas of fresh flowers.

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