Marmoleum is an innovation in the construction industry, and more precisely in the field of flooring. It is rapidly replacing the usual linoleum and laminate flooring, since it has a number of advantages:

• Due to the cheap materials used for the production of marmoleum, its cost is low.
• The coating is absolutely environmentally friendly, non-toxic and safe for human health, therefore it is suitable for installation in a residential area.

• The material has good thermal insulation characteristics, is resistant to heavy loads and does not lend itself to deformation.
• A varied selection of colors and textures, which will allow you to choose the best option just for you, and the operational life reaches 20 years.
• Ease of installation.

All materials have not only pluses but also minuses. Marmoleum is no exception:

• Marmoleum, produced in rolls, cannot be twisted more than once, with the base to the top, and it is also necessary to be careful during the installation process, since the material has fragile edges.
• After a certain time, the material hardens a little and spreads, in addition, after long-term storage in improper conditions, or careless transportation, marmoleum deteriorates its quality indicators.
• Since marmoleum is a rather elastic and heavy material, it cannot be used for wall and ceiling decoration.
• When slicing, an uneven cut forms on it, which can ruin the whole look. Therefore, the material should be cut only in those places that will later be hidden by furniture or baseboards.

Release form

Marmoleum is produced in several variations:

• In the form of a roll with a width of 200 cm. It is rather difficult to lay it in an apartment, since it can be rolled up only once, so the help of several professionals and special tools will be required.
• In the form of square tiles with dimensions 50 * 50 and 30 * 30 cm. Special glue is used for their installation.
• In the form of rectangular slabs 90 * 30 cm. The installation process is similar to the previous version.

Installation process

If you have chosen this material as a floor covering, you need to figure out how to lay marmoleum in order to avoid mistakes. When choosing tools for work that are used when installing laminate flooring, you should be careful, since marmoleum is more fragile. Also, keep in mind that the process of cutting the material is quite complicated, and after it there are ugly edges, which will need a rubber hammer and a hook clamp to level them.

Due to the characteristics of the material, it can be laid directly on the old floor. However, this is allowed only if there are no defects on the old coating, otherwise it must be deformed and work carried out on the concrete base. Marmoleum does not require any backing as it does this function by itself.

For home use it is worth giving preference to square tiles planted with glue, as there may be problems with joining with the panels.

Base

When preparing the base, try to level it, or rather, get rid of strong changes in the surface, with further putty of deep potholes. After all work, dust the floor with a vacuum cleaner.

Material fit

Spread the material on the floor of the room in such a way that there is a distance of 1.5 cm between the wall and the marmoleum along the entire perimeter.This must be done so that in the future the floor covering does not deform under the influence of temperature extremes and moisture. These gaps will disappear under the skirting boards. If required, adjust the outer row of plates to fit required sizes using a jigsaw.

Installation on a concrete base

If you work in rectangular room, work should be started from a wall with a shorter length. Before the process, place a plank (1.5 cm) against the wall, which must be wrapped with foil to avoid sticking. Next, take the glue and apply it in a zigzag directly under the tile, and then lay the coating and press it tightly against the plank. For fixing, silicone or special glue is used.

Then add next item from the side and thus move to the opposite wall, laying the transverse rows. Use a hammer and clamp if necessary.

After completing the work, you must leave the flooring alone until the glue has completely dried (this time is indicated in the instructions).

Seam processing

You can add originality to your flooring by inserting matches between the tiles during installation. After the end of the match, pull it out, and grout the seams.

Remember that before starting the installation, you should treat the material with the utmost care, otherwise cracks and defects will appear on its surface.

Laying, flooring of natural Forbo Marmoleum linoleum

Requirements for the premises

Before laying natural linoleum, the room temperature must be stable for at least 48 hours. The air temperature in the room should not fall below 17 ° C. Substrate temperature should exceed 14 ° C and relative humidity should not exceed 75%.

Preliminary preparation of natural linoleum for laying

Before laying, the rolls of marmoleum should be acclimatized in the room for 24 hours, while it is necessary to give the rolls an upright position.
The labels on the prepared rolls must be easily readable so that the article, color, roll and batch numbers can be controlled. If several rolls of the same color are stacked in the room, make sure that all these rolls are from the same batch (to avoid discoloration).

Base requirements:

Natural linoleum flooring begins with the preparation of the base. The basis for the flooring of the marmoleum should be:

Smooth and monolithic (without lumps, dimples, sags, drops and joints), otherwise all the unevenness of the base will appear on the surface of the marmoleum after laying. And during operation in uneven places, the marmoleum will wipe;

The substrate must be dry (the permissible moisture content of the substrate is no more than 2%, measured by the carbide method);

Durable (not less than 300 kg / cm2);

The substrate must be clean (free from dirt, oil, paint or grease).

Adhesive for laying natural linoleum

For flooring natural linoleum, it is recommended to use exclusively water-based adhesives specially designed for laying natural Marmoleum linoleum, namely - Forbo 418 glue.
characterized by an exceptionally high adhesive strength (at least 3 N / mm2), as well as a high initial adhesive strength. Moreover, this glue has a so-called "moisture retention power". This property is one of the main properties for adhesives intended for natural linoleum. The fact is that, while still wet, 418 glue develops such an adhesive force that either keeps the coating from shrinking completely, or radically reduces the shrinkage of the coating.
It is not recommended to use two-component for laying natural linoleum polyurethane adhesives as they do not create an initial adhesive force. This means that you will not be able to completely remove bubbles from under the marmoleum during the curing period of the glue. After the polyurethane glue has reacted, it will be impossible to remove the bubbles remaining under the coating.

Preparation of natural linoleum (cutting for the room)

Before laying, the rolls of marmoleum must be rewound with the front side inward - this will significantly reduce the amount of shrinkage!

It is necessary to unwind the roll along the long wall of the room, cut it off, leaving a margin of 10 cm on each side;

Using a trimmer, trim the edge of the linoleum sheet on both sides, undercutting inward to prevent “picking”;

Push the marmoleum sheet against the wall as tightly as possible, making sure that the 10 cm stock is evenly distributed on both sides;

Set the length of the long scribe 10 mm longer than the length obtained. greatest distance between the wall and the covering sheet;

Holding a long marker, as perpendicular to the covering as possible, draw the outline of the wall onto the covering using a needle as a marker;

Now we cut off the material according to the received mark, using the blade-hook, cutting inward;

We push the covering tightly against the wall - the configuration of the wall and the outline of the covering must match;

On the base, draw a line (edge) with a pencil, using the free edge of the marmoleum sheet (opposite from the wall) as a ruler;

On the base and on the sheet of marmoleum, draw a mark (short transverse line) with a pencil, which will fix the position of the sheet;

Slide the marmoleum sheet along the drawn edge of the line until the 10 cm stock left lies loosely on the base;

Install a long marker (between the roller stop and the needle) slightly less than the distance (shift) between the marks on the cover and on the base - to compensate for shrinkage;

Using the marker installed in this way, apply the contour of the wall to the coating, then remove the excess along the resulting contour using a hook blade, cutting inward;

Repeat the above process for the opposite side;
Now sweep or vacuum the base and place the prepared marmoleum sheet in its place;

If it is necessary to lay two or more sheets of natural linoleum indoors, each next sheet is laid in the same way, after which it is cut first along the long side, and then from the ends;

In order to ensure accurate marking of the seams, it is first necessary to overlap the sheets: by 1.5–2 cm.

How to apply the glue for laying marmoleum?

After opening the can, the glue should be thoroughly mixed and applied to the base with a notched trowel TKB / B1. The consumption of glue, when gluing natural linoleum, is about 450 g per 1 sq. m.
In a circular motion, gently and evenly apply the adhesive to the entire surface of the substrate. In this case, you need to use only one side of the spatula, the other must remain clean. The excess glue must be collected back into the jar with a spatula and closed.
After applying the glue to the base, there is no need to withstand the "drying time", since the base absorbs moisture, and the natural linoleum itself is a moisture-permeable coating.

Bonding natural Marmoleum linoleum

After you have cut the marmoleum into canvases in accordance with the room, it can be glued.
Taking hold of the short sides of the sheets, the prepared marmoleum canvases are simultaneously wrapped with the base upward, freeing up 1 half of the base area for applying glue.
It is impossible to roll prepared sheets into a roll, as this will lead to deformation of the coating and the appearance of bubbles.

On the base, along the folded edge, draw the border of the glue application with a pencil;

Using a suitable notched trowel (TKB / B1), apply the glue to the substrate, strictly observing the previously marked glue border;

Place the first piece of marmoleum on the glue and roll;

After one side of the linoleum strip has been laid on the glue layer and rolled in, it is necessary to wrap the edge of the marmoleum that has not been glued and carefully apply the glue to the base, observing the border. If there is a repeated application of glue to the same place, then this will appear through the coating in the form of a spot;

Roll the coating across the bale in order to expel the air under the coating along the shortest path, only then roll it along the bale.

After 15 minutes, you need to re-roll the natural linoleum in order to achieve the final and reliable adhesion of the linoleum and the base;

After all strips of natural linoleum have been laid, the seams must be trimmed. Set the seam width with the short combi marker.

When working with Marmoleumom Forbo you can:

for rooms where there is no danger of a significant amount of water on the coating, leave a tight seam, abandoning welding, - the transverse expansion of linoleum makes such a seam extremely tight and reliably protects it from the penetration of a small amount of water;
for rooms where the likelihood of water appearing on the coating is very significant, it is necessary to weld the seams, for this it is necessary:

Place the foot of the marker under the previously left "overlap", rest his heel against the edge of the glued cover sheet and, drawing the marker along the edge of the cover, mark the exact contours of the edge of the lower marmoleum cloth on the upper canvas;

Trim the edge along the mark using a hook blade, also trim inward;

Set the cut edge of the coating into glue, pressing carefully;

Remove any glue on the coating with a clean, damp cloth;

Wash the tool from the glue with cold water.

Features of gluing natural linoleum
After you apply the glue, you can carefully lay the marmoleum. Natural linoleum laid on glue must be carefully ground with a board sheathed with a piece of carpet, the air from under the linoleum is squeezed out along the shortest path - in the transverse direction.
After that, it is strongly recommended to roll the entire surface of the marmolemois with heavy rolling rollers weighing 50-70 kg. First, the coating is rolled in the transverse direction, removing air from under the coating, and then in the longitudinal direction. The coating should be rolled especially carefully in the area of ​​the seams.

General recommendations for laying natural linoleum
If several rolls of the same article are stacked in a room, you should strive to stack the rolls in sequence with increasing roll numbers.
Sheets of natural linoleum should be stacked in one direction; on back side marmoleum are marked with arrows indicating this direction.
Due to the properties of natural linoleum, when laying in a wet adhesive layer - to shrink in the longitudinal direction (1mm / 1 running meter), it is necessary to rewind the rolls with the front side inward before laying - this will significantly reduce the amount of shrinkage.
Due to the properties of natural linoleum, when laying in a wet adhesive layer, it slightly expands in the transverse direction, it is necessary to cut the marmoleum, slightly tilting the knife so that the sheets of linoleum laid next to it touch the sharp upper edges. When natural linoleum expands, the sharp edges touch and even wrinkle somewhat, forming a tight seam. This will prevent the linoleum from being squeezed out in the area of ​​the seams - the so-called “picking”, which would take place if the linoleum sheets rested against each other throughout the entire thickness of the coating.

Welding seams (joints) of natural linoleum

To ensure that natural flooring is completely waterproof, it is necessary to weld the marmoleum sheets using a special welding cord designed for natural linoleum. Please note that different designs can be created on the marmoleum coating using a welding cord of a contrasting color.
Welding work on natural linoleum must be carried out after the glue has completely polymerized, preferably the next day or a few hours after the flooring. If you start welding immediately after laying the coating, then the glue boiling under the influence of hot air and steam emissions from the seam will not allow you to reliably weld the marmoleum joints.
Unlike welding PVC coatings, it would be more correct to apply the term "soldering" to natural linoleum, since hot air unable to melt the wood flour coating.
When "welding" natural linoleum, the cord, consisting of a low-melting polymer, melts, penetrates into the pores of the marmoleum and, solidifying, seals the seam.
For high-quality "welding" of natural linoleum, it is necessary to use only a professional tool: a hair dryer with stepped air temperature control, special knives and accessories.

Make a "groove" for the seam using a grover carving knife;

The depth of the "groove" should be almost the entire depth of the marmoleum, up to the jute base, which cannot be damaged;

Then it is necessary to thoroughly vacuum the seam area;

Set the temperature of the hair dryer to about 350 ° C, put on a cast nozzle with a diameter of 5 mm and turn on the hair dryer;

Wait until the nozzle heats up to the required temperature;

We take a piece of the welding cord a little more than half of the seam and insert it into the nozzle, immediately press the end of the cord into the groove of the seam and, holding it in this position for about a second, begin to move the hair dryer along the seam (with the same, low, speed of movement);

The heel of the nozzle must always be parallel to the surface during movement;

It is necessary to select the correct speed of the hair dryer, making sure that the cord does melt, bonding with the coating material; with the right welding process on the sides of the seam, two tracks of tiny beads are formed from the material of the welding cord;

Immediately after the end of welding, while the cord is hot, using a sickle-shaped knife and a nozzle for preliminary cutting of the cord, remove the "rough" excess of the cord;

Repeat the welding, starting from the opposite wall, and put the cord with an overlap of 20 cm on the previously welded and cut cord;

After the temperature of the cord equals the temperature of the coating, it is necessary to cleanly remove the excess cord, while keeping the sickle-shaped knife as parallel to the floor surface as possible.
If you cut the fused cord in one pass, when the cord is still hot, then as a result, after the cord cools down, a groove will remain - the cord shrinks when cooled. Such negligence can lead to significant deterioration appearance as the coating is laid, as dirt and dust will collect in the grooves.

When creating designs in the form of friezes ("frames"), it is necessary to cut strips natural linoleum only along the roll, but not across. Natural linoleum, when rolled into a roll, has been exposed to significant bending forces for a long time and is in a stressed state. Having cut the strips across the roll, it is impossible to compensate for this stress with the adhesive force (due to the small width of the strip); as a result, the strips of the coating will take on a characteristic “slab” shape. The smaller the width of the strip, the more noticeable this effect will be. Most often, such a "slab" cannot be corrected by pressing down with the help of unfolding heavy objects in such areas.
THEREFORE, when creating friezes, you need to adhere to the following rules:
The stripes are always laid in one direction, in accordance with the direction arrow;
The marmoleum strips, from which the frieze is formed, are joined only diagonally, at an angle of 45 °, - this will allow to evenly distribute the stress and prevent breaks and / or “picking” at the joints.

Drying chamber deflection

The term "deflection of the drying chamber" is understood as a factor associated with the technology of natural linoleum production, namely, the preservation on the linoleum sheet of a stable transverse "wave" 10-12 cm wide of the trace from the crossbeam used to tension the natural linoleum sheet when marmoleum matures in the drying chamber.
As a rule, it is located in the middle of the roll - at a distance of 15-16 meters from the beginning of the roll. Unfortunately, due to the stress in this area, the installation of the "drying chamber deflection" is fraught with some difficulties. For reliable gluing of such an area, the reliable adhesive force inherent in adhesives for natural linoleum is often not enough. Therefore, if possible, it is recommended not to use this area, if the size of the premises, the design of the coating pattern and the supply of linoleum allow.

From year to year construction market pleases with a lot of new materials. One of these is marmoleum. This material is used for installation as a floor covering and cannot be used for any other purpose.

The presented product looks very similar to ordinary linoleum, but it differs in its technical characteristics.

Marmoleum has main feature: it is a completely natural material.

The fact is that the following components are used for manufacturing in production: linseed oil, chalk, resin conifers, wood flour, as well as elements of cork oak wood. The use of various dyes allows you to get a lot of color and texture options.

The picture shows the natural ingredients used in the production of marmoleum.

Another feature of the product is that the pattern on its surface can retain its brightness and color for a long time. This is ensured by a special technology for applying a picture, which assumes its location throughout the entire thickness of the layer. In stores, marmoleum is sold in the form of panels, rolls, and tiles. The roll option is most common.

Specifications

Before purchasing this natural material, you need to find out what features it has. Marmoleum has the following technical characteristics:

1. Warranty period of operation: at least 35 years.
2. Mechanical strength of the product: 160 kg / cm2.
3. Standard material dimensions: roll - width - 2 m, thickness - 2-4 mm; tiles - 50x50 or 30x30 cm; panels - 90x30 cm.
4. Specific gravity: 2.6-3.4 kg / m2.

Classification

Such a flooring has a classification similar to linoleum. For example, there are such classes of marmoleum:

• 41-43 - such a product can be considered the most durable and reliable. It is used most often where a large number of people congregate. For example, you can lay this material in shopping centers, airports, train stations. Due to the thickness of the decorative layer, which is 3 mm, it can serve for a long time and with high quality.

For large office space suitable for marmoleum class 31-33, for small - class 21-23. Pay attention to the beauty of the coating pattern.

• 31-33 - This is an industrial product. It fits in factories, production halls and large offices. The thickness of the decorative layer is about 2.5 mm.
• 21-23 - this marmoleum is the thinnest and cheapest. It is designed for apartments, private houses and small offices. But do not think that such material is of lower quality than products of previous classes. The warranty period for this type of product is about 20 years.

For the nursery, it is better to choose the thinnest marmoleum. Such a coating is sold at a lower price, while maintaining the properties of durability.

Choose your own flooring high class not worth it. It will not be worth your investment. The fact is that dents from furniture legs can form on a thick layer over time. For home use, thin, cheap material is fine.

Advantages and disadvantages

Marmoleum has the following advantages:

• Security. Since the product is made from natural materials, it does not emit any harmful substances... In addition, this coating is well suited for allergy sufferers and children. Natural resins, which are present in the composition of the material, provide a bactericidal effect.
• High degree of resistance to mechanical stress.
• The product is UV-resistant, so it does not fade.
• The coating has a high level of resistance to fire and temperature changes. This feature allows you to use it for arranging underfloor heating.

A plus to all the advantages of marmoleum is a wide selection of colors and floor decoration possibilities.

• Resistant to moisture.
• Despite the relatively small layer thickness, such a floor does not require additional noise, thermal and waterproofing. Thanks to this, your repairs will be completed faster, and you will spend much less money.
• A wide variety of standard sizes.
• Possibility of laying the material on the old floor covering.
• Resistance to the influence of chemicals.
• Good decorative qualities.

Also, this material practically does not accumulate static electricity.

Due to its qualities of resistance to mechanical stress and moisture resistance, this coating can be easily used in the kitchen.

Despite the fact that this coating is natural, it also has certain disadvantages:

1. Relative stiffness. Over time, the coating softens a little and hardens. This fact does not allow it to be used to decorate walls or ceilings.
2. Fragility. During transportation and use of the product, you need to be especially careful with the edges of the elements. As for the rolls, you can roll them only once.
3. Quite a lot of weight. But this does not prevent the marmoleum from remaining relatively plastic along the edges.
4. Difficulties in processing. When cutting elements, you will not be able to achieve a perfectly flat and smooth cut. However, this problem is eliminated by installing the skirting board.

General form marmoleum tiles.

As you can see, marmoleum is not without its drawbacks, but they can be eliminated.

Features of laying roll cover and panels

The presented flooring has enough good feedback users to help you choose suitable option... Now you can consider how the marmoleum is laid. First of all, it needs to be prepared for work. That is, the roll or tile must lie in the room in which they will be laid for at least a day. During this time, you can remove all furniture, debris from the room and vacuum the base well. You may need to further align it.

In principle, the flooring of rolled marmoleum is most often produced in large rooms... The technology of its laying is practically no different from the features.

As for the panels, they must be laid as carefully as possible. The fact is that fastening latches are thin spikes that can be broken with one careless movement.

Features of "click" tile installation

The presented material is laid on a substrate. It compensates for some unevenness in the substrate and also prevents the formation of condensation. Usually such a substrate is made of polyethylene, and is laid with a small overlap of 20 cm. An additional layer of thermal insulation is not required. Please note that you do not need to use glue to mount the elements.

So, the technology of laying the coating consists of the following stages:

• Installation of the first row. In this case, keep in mind that you will have to retreat from the wall about 1 cm.This is necessary to form expansion joints... The groove of the first element should be directed in the opposite direction from the wall, the ridge, on the contrary, to the wall. Marmoleum is installed quite simply, but this process has a peculiarity: each subsequent tile must be connected to the previous one at a slight slope.

The photo shows the very feature of the installation. The next tile is joined at an angle.

• Installation of the second row. It is produced in the same way as the previous one. Remember about the expansion joint, for this place a block under the first tile. After fixing the rest of the elements, it is removed, and the locks click into place.
• Installation of the remaining rows. In this case, parallelism must be taken into account.

After you reach the opposite wall and the final row, try to remove the groove a little, grease the tile with glue and tap with a block. The gap between the flooring and the wall is closed with a skirting board. You may need to trim the material a little as you work. This is not so easy to do. For work, use a grinder or jigsaw.

Features of coating care

Marmoleum is a natural material that is very popular. But it also requires careful maintenance. This material is unpretentious to use, but in order to avoid scratches on its surface, while cleaning, try not to use metal brushes, scrapers or hard abrasive sponges. Prefer a dry and soft cloth.

There are on the market special means for the care of marmoleum.

If stains appear on the floor, and without wet cleaning indispensable, it is better to use neutral detergents... Some users suggest using special cleaning fluids for hard floors. They are capable of providing an excellent effect. That's all for today. Beauty for your sex!

Manufacturers claim that linoleum has a lifespan of 20 years or more. But in reality this is not always the case. If you want the linoleum to serve the stated terms, and you do not have to prematurely make repairs and produce again laying natural linoleum- contact the StroyEkoMarket company.

Brigade professional builders will carry out work on the highest level- you will definitely be satisfied with the result. We use an individual approach, so we try to make sure that price for laying natural linoleum arranged for you.

Professional approach when laying natural linoleum

• Natural linoleum requires careful transportation and layout of the material before it is glued.
• Laying natural linoleum on a floor of complex geometry (for example, in corridors) should be carried out according to precise markings, taking into account the shrinkage of the material after gluing.
• Linoleum will not sell out and will last a very long time if the main floor is carefully prepared and leveled by professionals.
• Seams at the joints individual elements coatings are additionally "welded" with a special glue or welding cord - the most important stage of installation.
• When laying rolled linoleum in several sheets, the edges are cut at an angle with a trimmer to obtain a tight seam. This operation should be carried out very accurately without damaging the edges.
• Spectacular patterns on the floor made of linoleum fragments in contrasting colors are already a challenge for experienced professionals.

Laying natural linoleum - why StroyEkoMarket?

1. Professional advice will help you choose natural linoleum for each room, which the best way will show itself in the proposed conditions.
2. The cost of laying natural linoleum higher than PVC, and this material is picky about careful installation, so there is no room for error when laying. Engaging professionals will make your choice in favor of natural coating really cost effective.
3. StroyEcoMarket specialists will prepare the base for laying linoleum and offer the least expensive option for leveling the problem floor.
4. We work directly with the best manufacturers construction and finishing materials, we have access to original brands and the latest technology work with them.

Strange, but the further science advances in terms of creating cheap artificial materials, the more often people tend to use natural materials in the decoration of their homes. Not everyone can afford the complete decoration of an apartment or house with natural building materials, but you still want to bring at least something into your home.

One of the available natural materials is marmoleum, which is also called "natural linoleum". Its cost is about 2 - 3 times higher than the cost of a quality one, but it is quite affordable for most people.

Do not think that marmoleum is a super-modern material. Its prototype was invented in the 16th century. And now the production process is simply improved, thanks to the capabilities of modern technology.

Marmoleum - what is it

To begin with, only natural ingredients are used in the manufacture of the material:

• wood flour;
• linseed oil;
• resin of coniferous trees;
• natural coloring pigments.

Thanks to the variety of natural dyes, manufacturers have managed to create a material of such a wide range of colors that the decoration of each interior can be made exclusive.

The color drawing of marmoleum is made for the entire thickness of the material, therefore, even with some wear, it retains its decorative effect.

The cost of the material is partly due to the length of the production process:

• linoleum mass mixed from natural products should mature at a certain temperature within a week;
• after that, pigments are added to it and pressed on special machines;
• then the layer is cut into strips of a given width and laid on a jute base;
• the resulting dense texture ripens for another two weeks in the drying chamber, where it turns into marmoleum;
• the last stage is the creation of a protective surface layer of polymers, which increases the wear resistance of the coating (you can purchase a material without this layer, it will be 100% natural, but it must be constantly rubbed with special mastics).

The quality of the material and its types

Like many floor coverings, marmoleum is divided into classes in terms of quality and durability:

• 22 - 23 class - the thickness of the pattern is about 2 mm, the coating is used for laying in general purposes (including residential);
• 31-32 class - pattern thickness 2.5 mm, the coating can withstand significant loads and has industrial application;
• 41 - 43 class - the thickness of the pattern is not less than 3 mm, the coating is used in rooms with high traffic (airports, hotels).

The higher the class of coverage, the higher its price. Therefore, when buying marmoleum for your home, you should not overpay for quality, the thinnest and cheapest material is quite suitable here.

Depending on the form in which it is released, marmoleum is divided into:

• rolled with a width of 200 cm;
• square tiles with dimensions 30 * 30 and 50 * 50 cm based on HDF board;
• rectangular plates with dimensions 90 * 30 cm.

For home use are more often bought tile material, which is less susceptible to damage, both during transport and during installation.

Advantages and disadvantages of marmoleum

There are disadvantages, like any other, but they are few:

There are many advantages:

1. Environmental friendliness of the material, which makes it possible to use it even in medical and children's institutions;
2. , which gives it the resin of conifers;
3. Hypoallergenic for both people and pets;
4. Large selection of colors and shades, giving ample opportunities design;
5. Uncomplicated and quick installation coverings;
6. Possibility reuse with careful dismantling of tiled coatings;
7. High, unlike linoleum, resistance to mechanical damage and exposure to chemicals;
8. Marmoleum tolerates well high temperatures so can be used like topcoat for .

For starters, it should be noted that the material is not recommended for flooring in damp or cold rooms.

The best operating conditions are: humidity not more than 60% and temperature not lower than 18 degrees. Therefore, bathrooms are contraindicated, where the coating can deform and unheated rooms ( summer houses, and loggias).

The material is good for flooring in children's rooms, bedrooms, living rooms, office premises.

Preparation for styling

First you need to carefully study the purchased material in daylight. If you find defects after installation, your claims to quality will no longer be accepted.

Before starting work, packages with the material are stored for 2-3 days in the room where it will be mounted, laid on a flat surface.

The room must be dry and clean, all concrete and plastering work as well as installation of windows and doors.

The subfloor must be level, dry and solid. If there are irregularities, they must be eliminated using a self-leveling floor or dry screed. The deviation of the surface from the horizontal can be no more than 2 mm in either direction by 2 m.

Humidity concrete base cannot exceed 2%.

As you can use plastic wrap 0.2 mm thick. The edges of the film should be brought onto the walls by 5 cm, and overlap at the seams by at least 20 cm.

For better sound insulation and clipping impact noise on top of the waterproofing, you need to lay a special substrate made of foamed polyethylene with a density of at least 30 kg / cu. m and 2 mm thick.

If you chose roll material, then its installation practically does not differ from. The only limitation is to avoid bending the material too much, it may crack.

To lay the tiles you will need:

• roulette;
• a pencil for marking;
• or ;
• wedges 1 - 1.5 cm thick;
• wooden blocks;
• hammer.

Determine in advance the floor pattern, the direction of laying the tiles. Carefully inspect the places of passage of pipes, the location of thresholds, protrusions of the walls and decide on the most rational placement of tiles in these places.

Technology:

1. The gap between the wall and the first panel should be at least 1-1.5 cm, which will protect the floor from deformation during thermal expansion. Prepared wedges are used to set this gap. The first panel is laid with a ridge against the wall, the rest are joined with their ends until the end of the row. It is necessary to correct the position of the panel by gently tapping with a hammer on the gasket from wooden block... This precaution will help to avoid damage to the material.
2. The beginning of the second row is the trimming of the last slab of the first row. It is inserted with a spike into the groove of the first row, but the lock is not latched, leaving the panel tilted. The slope is provided by prepared bars. All panels are sequentially joined together with their ends, leaving them at an angle. And only when the entire row is ready, the bars are removed and, by gentle pressing, the second row is snapped into place along the longitudinal joint with the first.
3. All subsequent rows are mounted in the same way.
4. After laying several rows, if the distance between the marmoleum and the wall becomes less than 1 cm, the position of the coating is corrected.
5. If the width of the last row is less than the width of the tile, then the material is cut in width with a jigsaw.
6. Minimum clearances must also be observed near pipes. At the end of the work, they are closed with special overlays.
7. fixed only to the wall, since the covering should not be fixed motionless. The width of the skirting board must cover the installation gap between the floor and the wall.
8. If the edge of any panel crumbles a little during installation, then at the end of the work, all such defects are sealed with a compound for linoleum, it is only important to choose the right color.

Caring for the coating is simple:

According to consumer reviews, for some time after laying the coating, the smell of oil can be felt in the room, which disappears over time. You need to be ready for this and not be afraid - marmoleum does not emit any harm.

It was also noted that saws for wood with a pitch of 2.5 mm make it possible to cut panel material almost perfectly - without chips and scoring.

When laying marmoleum in the kitchen (for greater sealing of the coating), a sealant can be used to treat the seams, the excess of which can be easily removed 10 - 15 minutes after application.