How to install an aluminum slatted ceiling: step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself installation of a rack ceiling: detailed instructions What you need for a rack ceiling

Rack ceilings are a popular solution for finishing kitchens and bathrooms, however, they look pretty decent in other areas of the apartment. With such a ceiling, notes of style and originality appear in the interior, the very highlight that is so lacking traditional methods arrangement of home interiors. A huge selection of materials, textures and color shades give design ideas complete freedom, which allows you to realize any, even the most extraordinary interior design. But the most important thing is in the installation. slatted ceiling there is nothing complicated, so you can do it yourself, and quite quickly and without much effort.

Types of slatted ceilings

Several types of slatted ceilings can be found on the market today. Their main differences lie in the design and shape of the rails, as well as in the features of their docking with each other and fastening to the supporting frame.

Rack ceilings are made of lightweight aluminum alloys or non-combustible plastic, therefore their main advantages are fire resistance, moisture resistance and environmental friendliness. Even being multi-level, such structures are easy to install, however, they somewhat reduce the height of the ceiling and require complete disassembly if it is necessary to replace individual elements.

Rack ceilings in the home interior in the photo

Classification of slatted ceilings:

  1. By panel type:
  • closed;
  • open;
  • solid.

The open design implies the placement of slats with a small (1.5-2 cm) gap and is great for finishing tall rooms where the gap between the slats will not be so noticeable. A closed ceiling is created using slats, which, having a special shape of the edge, are attached with an overlap, from which they resemble plastic or. In gapless or continuous slatted ceilings, the panels are installed without a gap, which creates a sense of the solidity of the ceiling space.

  1. By the shape of the reiki:
  • rectangular (German profile);
  • rounded (Italian profile);
  • V-shaped, etc.

Rectangular battens are used in ceilings open type, incl. with decorative inserts. Italian profile suitable for furnishing closed ceilings with a minimum gap between the panels. As a rule, panels of other shapes are used as decorative ceiling inserts or for the implementation of original design ideas.

  1. By the presence of a filling profile
  • with insert;
  • without insert.

In ceilings with an insert in the gap between the slats, an additional profile is installed. Constructions without an insert can have a sufficiently large gap (more than 2 cm) between the slats.

Varieties of rack suspended ceilings in the photo

As a rule, slatted ceilings are made of light aluminum alloys or non-combustible plastic, therefore their main advantages are fire resistance, moisture resistance and environmental friendliness. Even being multi-level, such structures are easy to install, however, they somewhat reduce the height of the ceiling and require complete disassembly if it is necessary to replace individual elements.

The surface of the slats can be of any color, be smooth, embossed or imitate other materials, which must be taken into account when choosing a finishing option.

Calculation of the ceiling structure

To install a slatted ceiling, it is necessary to prepare the room for work and complete all necessary calculations... To do this, you need to take out all the furniture, remove peeling plaster, level the walls and remove construction debris.

The structure of a slatted ceiling includes the following components:

  • main panels (slats);
  • slotted profile (used if necessary);
  • traverse (a special tire that serves to fix the rail);
  • corner (bearing) profile installed along the perimeter of the room;
  • adjustable suspension (wire or perforated strip, which is installed on the main ceiling and serves for fastening busbars with rails - similar to the guide profiles of gypsum plasterboard suspended structures);
  • stringer (guiding longitudinal and transverse profile);
  • plinth (performs a decorative function, covering the junction of walls and ceiling).

The calculation of the rack ceiling begins with measuring the perimeter of the room - it will correspond to the total length of the bearing profile. The length of the slats is selected according to the dimensions of the room, and they can have any direction - longitudinal, transverse or even diagonal. On sale you can find 3 or 4-meter panels, so the size of the panels should be selected with the expectation of a minimum of waste.


The location of the guide profiles is calculated with a distance of 30 cm from the longitudinal walls. The step between the stringers is taken no more than 1-1.2 m, therefore, in narrow spaces stringers may not be needed. In order to determine total length guides, you should draw a ceiling plan on paper.

For the installation of lighting devices, the distance between the base and the rack structure is taken based on their mounting dimensions. For example, for recessed luminaires with incandescent lamps, at least 130 mm is required, while for halogen or LED lamps, only about 70 mm.

What do you need for installation?

If you made the calculations and bought everything you need to install the rack ceiling, it remains to assemble the tool and stock up on consumables.

The list of tools should include:

  • construction knife;
  • hammer;
  • drill (with punch function);
  • screwdriver;
  • pliers;
  • construction and hydro level;
  • scissors or a hacksaw for metal (depending on the thickness of the slats);
  • marker or pencil;
  • tape measure and square.

In addition, you will need mounting dowels and self-tapping screws sufficient for reliable installation. ceiling structure quantity. Also, when working, it is worth using overalls, goggles and gloves.

With everything you need at hand, you can start marking the ceiling. The line of the bearing profile must be drawn strictly along the horizontal level. After that, the points of placement of stringers and suspension elements should be marked.


Multilevel ceilings require more complex calculations. The size of the gap between the main ceiling surface and the first tier will depend on what material you are going to fill it with. If not needed, heat or top level can be raised to maximum height(from 5 cm), but always taking into account the mounting dimensions of the lighting fixtures.

Electrical wiring in home interiors it is always hidden. Therefore, its wiring must be done before starting installation work. It is advisable to lay it in corrugated pipe securely fixed to the main ceiling or walls.


Do not forget about the difficulty of dismantling the slatted ceiling. The wiring must be laid so that later, in order to replace its individual sections or restore broken contacts, you do not have to disassemble the entire structure.

Installing a slatted ceiling

The installation of a rack-type suspended ceiling structure should be done only after finishing the room. And all in order not to damage or stain the front surface of the rails.


If there are markings, you can proceed to the first stage of installation - laying the bearing U-shaped profile. It is mounted along the wound of the line marked along the perimeter of the room using dowels, which are placed in increments of 30-50 cm.


The next step is to install adjustable hangers. They are located at the intersection points of the stringers and are attached to the main floor with dowels or self-tapping screws (depending on the base material). After mounting the suspension, you can start laying the stringers. Their length is taken with a 5-7 mm gap, which avoids curvature of the ceiling plane during final fixation to hanging elements.

Before installing the rails, you need to remove protective film... The length of the panels is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the room. The corners in it may not be straight, so the extreme rivers will have to be cut. This should be done taking into account the dimensions of the plinth, which should cover the angular gap between the suspended ceiling and the wall. The length of the panels is taken 3-5 mm shorter than the distance between the opposite walls for ease of installation.

The panels are positioned between the teeth of the traverse and snap into place on it. It may happen that you need to reduce the width of the side rails. To do this, having measured the required distance, you need to make a deep neat cut along the panel, and perpendicular cuts on the cut-off part, after which it can be broken off in parts by bending and unbending the metal.


When installing the side rails, the last one is mounted first, and then the penultimate one. Do not forget also about the intermediate liners, which are included in the design in order to neatly design the joints.

Lighting and other subtleties of installation


Mounting lighting equipment Is the most delicate part of the job. The slots for the luminaires must be made in advance, being careful not to make burrs. The setting of the lighting points is carried out in parallel with the laying of the battens. When doing this, do not forget to make sure that the connection is correct and secure.


The direction of the planks is chosen at the planning stage in accordance with the characteristics of natural lighting. As a rule, they try to place them along the line of light.

In narrow and cramped rooms, the best effect is achieved by the transverse arrangement of the slats, and in spacious square-shaped rooms - by diagonal ones, so look at the situation.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in installing a slatted ceiling. It is only important to correctly calculate the structure and observe the installation technology - in this case, the ceiling, pleasing to the eye, will serve you for many years.

Diy installation of a suspended rack ceiling, video

The installation of a suspended rack ceiling is quite simple, as is the technology for its installation. In most cases, you will be able to complete the installation yourself. You don't have to purchase expensive equipment or hire specialists to work. The main thing is to understand the design of the ceiling system, calculate the material consumption and strictly adhere to the installation instructions.

Rack ceiling design

Rack ceiling systems are used in the design of apartments, private houses and public premises. Structural elements are made of aluminum, so they are not exposed to moisture and corrosion. The use of slatted ceilings is especially important in rooms with high humidity: pools, kitchens and bathrooms.

The main advantages of the harness include:

  • ease of installation and ease of maintenance;
  • high level of fire resistance;
  • strength, reliability and, as a result, a long service life;
  • good sound absorbing and reflective qualities;
  • environmental friendliness and hygiene of the structure;
  • wide range of design possibilities.

Installation of a slatted ceiling allows you to hide defects in the base base, electrical wiring and ventilation. However, it is important to remember that the suspension system will lower the ceiling level by 5-10 cm.

The complete set of the structure provides for the following elements:

  1. Reiki. The lamella configuration depends on the type of ceiling. The shape of the rack profiles are rectangular, rounded or V-shaped. The first two options are the most popular, and V-shaped profiles are used as decorative inserts for the implementation of unusual design ideas.
  2. Steel or aluminum guides (combs, stringers). Standard length components - 4 m, thickness - up to 1 m. It is important that the rails and guides are selected from the same manufacturer, then the parts will clearly fit into the grooves and take their places, and no gaps will appear on the finished suspended canvas.
  3. Adjustable mini suspenders.
  4. Wall corners and U-profiles are elements used to hide joints between walls and ceilings.

Types of rack-and-pinion suspension systems

When choosing a rack suspended ceiling, pay attention to the main parameters:

  • installation method;
  • material of manufacture;
  • the texture of the lamellas.

Based on the technology of installing a rack ceiling, systems of two types are distinguished: open and closed.

Open structures provide for the presence of slots up to 1.5 cm between the slats. Subsequently, they are filled with inter-lath inserts or left open. This technology is suitable for rooms with high ceilings, where the gaps are not particularly noticeable. Advantage open systems - good ventilation, thanks to which on back wall condensation does not accumulate in the lamellas.

Rack structures of closed modification are placed tightly due to the presence of the so-called "tongues". These elements allow you to fix the adjacent lamella.

The panel material is selected based on the installation location of the suspended ceiling:

  1. Aluminum slats are moisture resistant and tolerate temperature fluctuations well, practically do not corrode. Aluminum panels combine lung properties picky plastic and durable metal. Such ceiling system most in demand when arranging a bathroom and kitchen.
  2. Steel slatted ceiling is usually installed in warehouses. Steel provides sound insulation and is a good reflector. However, the material is susceptible to corrosion, therefore it is recommended for use only in dry rooms.
  3. Plastic panels are a versatile finish that has received wide use... PVC slatted ceilings are installed in bathrooms, kitchens, commercial premises and warehouses. Such ceilings are not susceptible to dampness and are not demanding to maintain.

The texture of the slats is selected in accordance with the design and style of the room. According to the texture, the lamellas are glossy, matte, perforated and with imitation of wood, stone, leather and other natural materials.

DIY installation instructions for a rack ceiling

Calculation of materials and preparation of tools

To perform accurate measurements and calculations, you will need a tape measure, a simple pencil, a sheet of paper (preferably graph paper) and a calculator. First, you should accurately measure the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe ceiling. As a rule, the dimensions of the floor and ceiling are the same, so measurements can be taken below.

  1. Calculating area rectangular room is carried out by multiplying the length of the room by its width.
  2. If the room is supplemented with niches, then their area is added to the main size.
  3. Find out the area of ​​the room irregular shape somewhat more complicated. This value can be viewed in the registration certificate for the apartment or calculated independently by dividing the entire area into separate sectors. For calculations, you need the following formulas:
    • Area of ​​a triangle: S = Ö (p (p-a) * (p-b) * (p-c)), where p is the half-perimeter of the triangle; a, b, c - sides of the triangle;
    • The area of ​​the sector of a circle: S = 1 / 2PR, where P is the radius of the sector, R is the length of the arc.
  4. To calculate the perimeter, you need to measure and sum the lengths of all its sides.

The procedure for calculating accessories for a rack ceiling:

  1. Number of corner profiles - divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one profile. For trimming, you need to lay plus two profiles.
  2. Number of fasteners - divide the perimeter of the ceiling by the step of fixing the corner profiles.
  3. Number of support rails:
    • draw up a diagram of the ceiling of the room;
    • mark the location of the support rails on the image, providing an installation step of 1 meter.
  4. The number of adjustable suspensions - 4 suspensions are required for 1 tire.
  5. Number of decorative strips:
    • calculate the area of ​​the used rail ( standard dimensions panels - 3 m by 0.1 m);
    • divide the area of ​​the room by the resulting area of ​​the lamella.

Important! The calculated racks are the absolute minimum. Upon purchase, the resulting value should be increased by 10-15%.

Ceiling preparation and marking

To install a slatted ceiling in a kitchen or other room, you will need:

  • electric drill;
  • puncher;
  • scissors for cutting metal;
  • building level;
  • a hacksaw for plaster;
  • pliers and side cutters;
  • knife with replaceable blades;
  • roulette;
  • dowels, screws;
  • protective glasses.

The first step is to draw a horizontal line - marking for fastening the end profile. Procedure:

  1. Select the depth of the harness.
  2. Put a mark on the wall and use a level to transfer points to each of the corners of the room.
  3. If a tile is laid in the room, then you can adhere to the tile seam.
  4. Connect the marks and get a control line. For convenience, you can use a paint cord.

At this stage, it is advisable to take care of the electrical wiring. Its wiring must be done before installation work... The cable is laid in a corrugated pipe, which is securely fixed to the walls or the base of the ceiling.

Suspended frame mounting technology

The further installation of the slatted ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands is performed in the following sequence:


Ceiling paneling

When frame work the slatted ceiling is completed, the lamellas are being fastened:


Installation of spotlights

To equip a slatted ceiling in the bathroom, as in the photo below, it is necessary to install lamps. If the electrical wiring is connected to the site lighting fixture, then it is enough to make a neat hole for the ceiling lamp. This work must be done before installing the rails. Alternatively, the desired rail can be simply removed for a while.

Measure the diameter of the luminaire and prepare a circle template by cutting it out of cardboard. Attach the stencil to the rail and trace with a pencil. Make a hole in the center of the circle, insert scissors into it and cut the circle into small sectors. Then gently bend each slice to the edge, loosen and break off. The result should be an even hole.

As a rule, while maintaining normal operating conditions, there are no difficulties with the maintenance of the ceiling. To prolong the service life and the initial appearance of the slats, it is necessary to provide good ventilation in the room. In addition, the aesthetics of the coating largely depends on the quality of the lamellas used. Preference should be given to modern products, old copies with a film coating are practically unrealistic to wash.

Mirror ceiling surfaces are more finicky to care for. When caring for them, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

  1. To maintain shine, you must use special household chemicals without abrasive substances.
  2. If the ceiling is installed in the bathroom, then it is advisable to mount forced ventilation... Couples from hot water immediately rise up and settle on the mirror slats. In order not to constantly wipe the ceiling from stains, you can wipe it dry. However, with powerful fan this issue will be resolved by itself.
  3. When working with chemistry, it is imperative to wear safety glasses so that drops of funds do not get into your eyes.

Installing a slatted ceiling is a simple process that an amateur master can handle. The main thing is to perform the correct calculation of the material and follow the installation instructions.

Installation of a rack ceiling: video

Today you can see the slatted ceiling not only in the interior of shopping and entertainment centers, but also in many city apartments and country cottages... The reason for such popularity lies in the fact that the technology for arranging such structures is not so complicated. It is quite within the power of a novice builder to install a rack ceiling with your own hands. Before proceeding with the consideration of the installation technology, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with existing species this ceiling.

External features

Ceilings can differ in different ways. Let's list them.

Manufacturing material

This ceiling is a kind of suspended structure. We can say that it consists of slats made of different materials(plastic, steel, aluminum) and a special system for their fastening.

Dimensions (edit)

Existing standards for ceiling slats:

  • the width of the slats should be from 50 mm to 30 cm;
  • thickness - from 0.4 mm to 0.7 mm;
  • length - up to 6 m.

A slatted ceiling can be:

  • matte;
  • smooth;
  • glossy;
  • perforated;
  • or a special decorative texture.

Colour

The existing variety of colors and shades of ceiling slats allows designers to use them when decorating any interiors.

The form

Most often forms ceiling panels are rectangular, but sometimes they also have a rounded shape.

Joints

According to the types of joints, streams are:

  • Open. A small gap appears between the rails (about 15 mm), which in decorative purposes closed with a special profile.
  • Closed. The slats are overlapped. Installation is carried out without the use of decorative profiles.
  • Gapless. This type of ceiling also does not need a layout. The installation of the rails is done close to each other.

The main advantages of slatted ceilings are:

  • Versatility. They have proven themselves perfectly in rooms with significant requirements for moisture resistance: they are installed in swimming pools and saunas, on verandas, terraces and in gazebos.
  • Environmental friendliness. Usage safe materials in the manufacture and coating of panels.
  • Durability. The slats do not rust, the color of their coating does not fade and does not fade over time. These ceilings have been in service for over 25 years.
  • Diversity. There is a huge assortment of panels (in style and design).
  • Fire resistance. Reiki is made, as a rule, from non-combustible materials, besides, when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances.
  • Hygiene. Dust does not accumulate on the panels and they can be easily washed with warm water.
  • Simplicity and ease of installation. Rack ceilings are mounted quite simply, quickly, and besides, without dirt and dust. They are endowed with an excellent suspension system, which gives an excellent opportunity convenient device communications (air ducts, electrical lighting distribution, etc.). Also, at any time, any rail can be quickly dismantled and replaced with a new one or installed back.

Installation instructions for slatted ceiling

Suspended ceiling system consists of elements:

  • Corner profile. It is necessary to close the gap that forms between the wall and the slatted ceiling.
  • Suspension (adjustable). Consists of a rod attached to the base and a special bracket that is needed to attach the stringer (support rail).

  • Carrier rail (stringer, traverse, comb). Galvanized steel strip, on which there are retaining grooves for installing the rails.

So, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with our installation instructions:

  • First, you should decide to what height the ceiling is supposed to be lowered.
  • With the help of a lace and a level, it is necessary to beat off the horizontal along the perimeter of the room.
  • Next, measure the length of the horizontal and cut off the pieces of the corner profile of the required length (for the first wall).
  • If the profile does not have holes for fasteners, then you should take a drill with a drill for metal and drill the holes yourself. The first hole is drilled at a distance of five centimeters from the beginning of the corner, and all subsequent ones - after about fifty centimeters.
  • Along the marked line, attach the profile with holes to the wall, and then through drilled holes mark the points on the wall with a marker.
  • Drill holes in the wall and insert the prepared dowels into them.

  • Using self-tapping screws, install the corner profile (screwing self-tapping screws into the dowels) - the basis of the rack structure.
  • Repeat the above process for installing the profile for other walls.
  • The cut-off corner is fixed in the outer corners at an angle of 45 °, and in the inner corners - butt-to-end.
  • Place the support rail against the ceiling and then use a marker to mark two holes to drill holes at a distance of about 30 cm from the ends of the rail. Make the remaining holes at a distance of 1.2 m or slightly less.
  • Repeat the same steps with the rest of the stringers (support rails).
  • Drill holes at the pre-marked points of the base ceiling with a hammer drill and install the dowels.
  • To the ceiling slab using hangers with special brackets attach support rails. Fix the tires parallel to each other in 1.2m increments.
  • If the distance is small, the support rails can be fixed directly to the base with self-tapping screws. Maintain a distance of 1 cm between the support rail and the installed corner section.

  • Measure the required panel length. The length of the slats, as a rule, is equal to the distance between the walls minus 0.5 cm.
  • Place the rack-and-pinion panel on the corner profile and snap into place with the bus clips. The rest of the rails are installed in the same way. Check the level of the ceiling periodically.
  • At the end, install a special profile-spreading to close the gap formed between the panels.

The technology of mounting slatted ceilings provides for the arrangement of slats at different angles to the walls and in different directions. When working in a narrow long room, it is recommended to place the slats across - this way the room visually expands.

It is up to you how to mount the ceiling, the main thing is that it harmoniously fits into the overall design of the room.

Video

To make it easier for you to understand the progress of work, we suggest that you watch the video instructions for installing a rack ceiling.

Here's another guide that will definitely help you with your work.

Before installation, it is necessary to correctly determine the attachment points for suspensions and stringers, taking into account the minimum distances indicated in the figure, and the location of lamps, diffusers and other elements that will be mounted in the future ceiling in order to prevent their intersections with the stringer.

There are three ways to attach the stringer to the main ceiling (floor):
1. Directly with a self-tapping screw through the holes in the stringer, adjusting the level by the depth of the self-tapping screw;
2. With a self-tapping screw through a spring, if the length of the self-tapping screw is insufficient;
3. Using a spoke with an adjusting spring. It is possible to use knitting needles of various lengths. A needle that is too long can be cut.

Before installing the first panel, it must be trimmed 5 mm shorter than the actual room size. The panel snaps onto the stringer with a light push.

The first and second panels must be installed next to opposite walls.

The edge panel often cannot fit in its entirety, it all depends on the size of the room. In such cases, it must be cut lengthwise. For this, the distance from the wall to the interpanel profile next to the extreme panel is measured.

Transfer the obtained measurement results to the panel that will be trimmed. Note: For accuracy, you need to measure the distance in several places, as shown in the figure. Then connect the marked points along the ruler, thereby marking the cutting line.

Using a painting knife, make an incision along the entire cutting line with the effort of your hand. If necessary, hold the knife again for a deeper cut.

Cut the part of the panel that will be cut with metal scissors into 20-30 cm segments and alternately break them off by bending them in different directions.

Before installing the end profile, it is necessary to flatten the rolled edge at a distance of 1.5 cm from the end of the profile on both sides. This can be done with pliers or pliers. To avoid scratching, it is best to do this through a piece of cardboard or other soft material.

Install the cut panel together with the end profile, for tight fixation of the panel in the end profile, use pieces of the end or interpanel profile, there should be a lot of such pieces if you have previously installed rack ceilings. These pieces are wedged between the upper and lower shelf of the end profile, thereby pressing the cut panel against the lower shelf. The installed interpanel profile completes the strength of this structural element.

When the base of the ceiling is assembled, it is necessary to set the longitudinal and transverse level, and adjust it using the adjusting springs, moving them along the spoke, or by adjusting the screw tightening depth. It depends on what method of attachment was used.

The panel, pre-cut by 3-5 mm, is first inserted with one end into the end profile until it stops. Placing the panel diagonally, we put the other end in the opposite profile and push it to the required position of the panel. Interpanel profile is inserted between two installed panels... In order for it to enter both end profiles, it needs to be slightly bent, avoiding kinking.

When there are few left recent panels, the space for installing them diagonally into the end profile becomes insufficient.

If the size of the room allows, then the panel can be bent a little, thereby it will quietly go into both end profiles. In this case, the length of the panel must exceed 2 meters.

Second way. It is necessary to cut the panel by 1.5 cm, bring one end into the end profile until it stops. Then the second end should freely enter the second profile. Align the panel symmetrically with respect to the two end panels.

The holes in the panel for the lamp, diffuser and other elements are cut out as follows. If the diameter of the luminaire allows it to fit into the panel, then a circle is drawn at this place required size... Then an incision is made around the circumference with a painting knife, and the resulting circle is divided into sectors with the same incisions. Carefully, separating one sector by swing, we get an even hole for the lamp.

If necessary, place the luminaire between two adjacent panels, two semicircles are cut out on the panels, and the interpanel profile is divided into two. The semicircles are cut with the same painting knife. In this way, the installation locations of the luminaires and diffusers are reinforced with additional stringers without suspensions.

To install a 600x600 raster luminaire, the luminaire itself is suspended on separate suspensions, and the trimmed panels are closed with an end profile. The installation locations of such luminaires are reinforced with additional stringers.

The panel adjacent to the raster luminaire can be folded rather than trimmed to prevent warping.

A slatted ceiling is a simple structure that consists of slats (can be made of aluminum, plastic or thin-walled metal), 50 to 200 millimeters wide and up to six meters long; bearing strips (called traverse, comb or stringer); wall baseboards (can be in the form of a corner or a U-shaped profile); and various elements fastening the traverse.

Such a ceiling can be of two types: open, when an inter-lath is installed between the slats, which in width can be five to ten times narrower than the main one; and closed when the slats are close to each other.

I would also like to note that by alternating slats and inter-slats with different colors, you can get very interesting design solutions.

Do-it-yourself installation of a rack ceiling should not cause problems due to the ease of installation of the entire structure.

To install a slatted ceiling, you will need:

  1. Hammer drill
  2. Pliers
  3. Construction pencil
  4. Carpenter's knife
  5. Hydro level
  6. Hammer
  7. Dowel
  8. Metal scissors
  9. Roulette

Installation of supporting structures (stringers)

Installation of a slatted suspended ceiling, like any other, begins with marking.

Using the hydro level, we mark the required height of the future ceiling. Then, stepping back from the wall a distance of 30 cm, draw a line parallel to the wall, this will be the place for attaching the first comb. Parallel to this line, draw the rest of the traverse attachment lines at a distance of no more than 120 cm from each other (if the room is narrow and the length of the panel (rail) to be installed is no more than two meters, then you can get by with installation on only wall skirting boards).

The choice of stringer mounts to the ceiling depends on how much distance you need to get between the main ceiling and the rack. If you have planned the installation of spotlights, then the space should be at least 15 cm for the convenience of installing the fixtures.

Conversely, if the height of the main ceiling is low, then the installation of the combs is done directly on it. If, nevertheless, you need some space between the ceilings, then the stringers must be fixed to the ceiling using spring adjustable ones.

The distance for fixing the hangers is no more than 1200 mm.

Installation of skirting boards

After all the traverses are safely installed, you can proceed with the installation of the skirting boards.

They are attached directly to the wall using dowels or self-tapping screws. When installing skirting boards, the marks previously applied to the walls using a hydro level should serve as a guideline. When the installation of the skirting boards is completed, it is necessary to align the traverses in the same plane using a level and taking into account the installed skirting boards.

Installation of panels

After you have checked the correctness of the installation of the stringers, as well as checked the correctness of the wiring of the electric lighting cables or other inter-ceiling communications, you can proceed directly to the installation of the panels.

To do this, you need to start the installation from the wall, near which the first whole (not cut panel) will be mounted. The length of the panel is taken 3-4 mm shorter than the measured distance from wall to wall. If mistakes were made during the installation of the traverse and some stresses appeared in the plane of the panels, then they can be corrected by adjusting the suspensions.

Installation of inter-lath strips is carried out after complete installation main panels.

This video tutorial will help you more clearly understand all the features of installing a rack suspended ceiling.

Installation features

There are no special differences from the installation of suspended ceilings.

When cutting holes for the luminaire, it is recommended to use the segment method, then the hole will turn out to be even and neat. If you have some experience in the installation of plastic and suspended ceilings, then installing a rack ceiling with your own hands will not cause you any difficulties.

Aluminum profile rack ceiling - device and installation

Considering the topic of slatted ceilings, it is necessary to touch upon the concept of suspended ceilings in general. The name speaks for itself: they are suspended from the base base indented from it.

Taking into account their decorative function, rack and pinion dropped ceilings also called false ceilings. Their popularity is based on a number of advantages, which are sometimes defining:

  • quick and easy assembly;
  • no need to prepare the foundation;
  • ease of solving the issue of lighting;
  • possibility concealed installation communications;
  • unlimited choice of design solutions;
  • availability due to the widest range of options.

The disadvantages include the presence of space between the false ceiling and the base ceiling, which reduces the height of the ceilings in the room.

The advantages of slatted ceilings

Rack - ceilings assembled from strips, long narrow panels.

  • euro lining;
  • wall panels (PVC, MDF);
  • metal slats - aluminum, as a rule.

Each of the options is worth considering.

But aluminum slatted ceilings are the most interesting. Let's dwell on them.

Advantages of aluminum slatted ceilings:

  • ease of installation;
  • moisture resistance;
  • fire safety;
  • resistance to chemical and bacterial influences;
  • maintainability;
  • strength;
  • availability;
  • exclusivity of design.

Photo of a slatted aluminum false ceiling.

Installation of aluminum slatted ceilings

The design of suspended suspended ceilings involves the use of several elements:

  1. Aluminum panels (slats), 40 to 400 mm wide and 3 to 6 meters long.
  2. Inserts (narrow strips, 16 mm wide).
  3. Carrying profile (tire, stringer, comb, 4 m long).
  4. Suspensions (adjustable spring or universal).
  5. End edging (wall corner or U-shaped profile).

Types and types

Panels are different widths, differ in color, texture, design features: there are open and closed.

This refers to the differences in their form.

Open-type panels, when assembled as standard, form 16 mm wide gaps between them, into which a narrow insert must be inserted. If the insert is not mounted, then through slots will remain and the panels will not be rigidly fixed.

Reiki closed type assume installation with or without insert.

And their shape determines the sequential assembly, since each next edge is superimposed on the previous one.

There is another type of slatted ceilings - gapless, assembled without inserts. In fact, any panels can be assembled without gaps. Because it does not depend on their shape, but on the characteristics of the carrier rail.

More about structural elements,

Carrier rail

The supporting profile is a rigid steel structure.

It has a V or H - shape, in the upper part of which there are holes for the suspension hook. At the bottom - there are spikes clamps. Panels snap onto them. The type of ceiling to be assembled depends on the location of the spikes and the distance between them.

When purchasing a slatted ceiling, it is important to pay attention to the specifics of stringers. They must correspond exactly to the selected panels and the type of assembly (gap-free or gapless).

Usually, the distance between the spikes involves the installation of panels of a certain width, with a gap for a decorative insert.

Hangers

The comb is attached with hangers or directly to the base ceiling. The choice is due to the height of the ceilings in the room. If this parameter allows you to "steal" 10 - 20 cm, then an adjustable suspension is used.

Euro hangers are often included in the delivery set of suspended ceilings.

This fastening element consists of two steel spokes located in parallel.

At the top there is a bend in the form of a ring for a self-tapping screw, at the bottom there is a hook inserted into the support rail. The spokes are connected by a C-shaped plate (spring), the tension of which fixes the adjustment. Such a suspension is easy to install and adjust, but it requires large space between base and false ceilings.

Universal ceiling suspension - perforated stainless steel tape.

A universal suspension allows you to mount a false ceiling at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the ceiling.

Its disadvantage is the need to screw the profile to the suspension, which complicates the adjustment. But if this is not the first time the master holds a screwdriver in his hands, this is not a problem.

Edging

The most important design element is the end border.

It does not carry loads and has a decorative function. The whole visual effect comes from this element. After all, the eyes first of all see the edging, abutments and corners.

The choice between a wall corner and a U-profile is quite simple - experienced master will recommend the profile.

It is rigid in itself and adds rigidity to the entire ceiling structure. However, the scope of delivery often includes simple corners, they are cheaper.

The U-profile is indispensable where it is impossible to touch the walls again.

For example, tile may lie with voids. This means that drilling and drilling will cause the tiles to split.

In most cases, a wall corner is used. But even walls are a rarity, and the aluminum corner poorly repeats their curvature. That is, it forms gaps that cannot be corrected.

These slots will be between the wall and the corner, and between the slats and the corner. True, sometimes, it turns out, bend the corner, reducing the gap. But this is not worth hoping for. It is better to check how curved the walls are, and proceed from this during the purchase of the material and its installation. In any case, the U-shaped profile is mounted more tightly to the panels, eliminating unnecessary gaps.

Installation procedure for an aluminum slatted ceiling

The assembly of suspended slatted ceilings can be divided into two stages:

  • installation of the frame;
  • installation of panels.

Wall corner

The first stage begins with the installation of a wall angle or U-profile.

First you need to beat off the intended ceiling height building level around the perimeter. If the room is of a decent size, it will be convenient to use a laser or hydro level.

Advice: Many people use a bright marker for these purposes, without thinking that it will have to be erased.

And it is not a fact that it will be possible to do it. Better to draw a light dotted line with a simple pencil.

Beating off the perimeter, you need to measure the dimensions of the walls with a tape measure and inscribe directly on them.

It is advisable to indicate them with millimeter precision. Cutting off the necessary pieces of the wall corner, the joints in the corners must be made end-to-end. In outer corners the edges are connected at an angle of 45 degrees.

Photo of an installed wall corner.

The main thing is that there is no overlap, as it will add gaps between the corner and the panels.

This means that from each signed size you need to subtract the width of the corner or profile - 20 or 25 mm.

As a rule, the edging is cut with simple metal scissors. But you need to be careful not to jam the edges. They can be straightened with pliers or a hammer, but traces will most likely remain. Except for the scissors this work can be made "grinder".

However, paint around the edges of the item is likely to turn black from heat.

Advice: A neat, but not easy, way is to use a hacksaw for metal.

Then, on the surface of the corner that will be pressed against the wall, holes are drilled, approximately every 50 cm. Having attached the profile in place, the holes are marked with a pencil on the wall and holes with a diameter of 5-6 mm are drilled for dowels.

Advice: when mounting the edging to the tiled walls, you can try to screw the self-tapping screw into the seam.

Sometimes this is the only way to avoid splitting the tiles and speed up the process.

During work, it is important to pay attention to the curvature of the walls, on the basis of which the dowels are placed. By pulling the corner in the places of the depressions, it will be possible to avoid the appearance of gaps between the edging and the wall.

The corner, most likely, will bend and form gaps between itself and the slats. It is possible to do it completely without gaps if the walls are even. Otherwise, it is necessary to look for the "golden mean".

Carrier rail

Having fastened the edging (corner), mount the support rail. It is installed perpendicular to the slats, cut with metal scissors or a grinder - aesthetics does not matter here. The location of the studs on the stringer is important. You need to cut the stringer so that the first panel clearly falls on these spikes.

Having prepared sections of the bus of a suitable length, they are laid on the wall corner by inserting a 10 mm thick spacer.

If a U-profile is used, the stringer fits on its upper shelf.

Installation of the support rail.

The supporting profile must be placed 30 cm away from the side walls. The distance between the profiles should not exceed 100 - 110 cm in order to avoid sagging of the ceiling.

The support rail is fastened with suspensions, the distance between which should not exceed 1 m.

The frequency of the suspensions is determined in fact, based on the resulting rigidity of the structure.

V large rooms to check the evenness of the ceiling, a lace is used, in small ones it is done simply by eye, since the bearing profile is quite rigid in itself and should not sag.

Having mounted the frame, it is necessary to resolve the issue with lighting and distribute the wires.

Installation of luminaires is carried out along the way with the installation of panels.

Installation of slats and lamps

The panels are always cut to a slightly smaller size than the length of the walls, for ease of installation. This operation is performed with scissors or a grinder very carefully.

Each fold will most likely lead to the appearance of extra gaps. Fixing the rails is easier than dismantling them, so it's better not to make mistakes anywhere.

Installation of slatted ceiling panels.

Reaching the first spotlight, it is necessary to cut a hole on the panel for it.

Advice: It is more convenient to do this while she is lying on the floor.

A hole drill for wood is suitable for this purpose. Having chosen the desired diameter, the hole is drilled at low speed of the drill.

Do-it-yourself installation of a rack ceiling. Instructions

In this case, you need to be careful, after passing through the metal, the drill can catch on and bend it.

The last panel usually needs to be cut lengthwise. This can be done with a simple clerical knife, the stiffeners will no longer interfere. Having passed it several times along the rail, it is simply broken. It is inserted without problems.

However, it must be taken into account that the edge of the panel is not fixed in any way. Therefore, on top of it, you can insert gaskets of a material with a thickness of 10 mm, for example, drywall.

Slatted ceiling in the bathroom.

When planning a suspended ceiling, it is important to understand some of its features:

  • aluminum is a soft metal, requires careful handling;
  • uneven walls can ruin appearance ceiling, so it would be good to align them first;
  • the aluminum slatted ceiling is not firmly fixed.

    This means that attaching accessories to it is undesirable.

Installation of slatted ceilings

Rack ceiling Is a type of suspended ceilings, which consists of a system of narrow panels (strips) and suspended structure designed for their attachment.

Types of slatted ceilings

So, from the many options for facing materials, we have chosen exactly the slatted ceiling. Now you need to decide on the type of ceiling, they are open and closed.

Open suspended ceiling

The open-type slatted ceiling is based on the placement of slats at a distance from each other, forming gaps between them.

Subsequently, they can be filled with inter-lath inserts or not at all. This type of overlap is usually installed in high rooms where the cracks are not conspicuous. In addition, they create good ventilation and do not trap condensation on the back of the battens. The open ceiling is suitable for both residential and shopping centers, warehouses, offices

.

This is how the rail itself looks for open ceilings.

Closed suspended ceiling

Accordingly, a closed-type slatted ceiling consists in placing the panels close to each other.

Closed slats have the so-called "tongues", which allow you to hook onto the adjacent panel, forming ceiling covering without gaps.

A closed rail with a "tongue" looks like this.

Rail material

The material from which the slats are made, as a rule, determines the purpose of the suspension system. The main materials are metal (steel, aluminum) and plastic.

Slatted aluminum suspended ceiling

Panels, which consist of aluminum, easily withstand temperature extremes and are moisture resistant.

Aluminum combines the qualities of durable metal and light, picky plastic. That is why it is the most common material for suspended ceiling slats.

Aluminum is practically non-corrosive.

It is aluminum slatted ceilings that will a great solution for the bathroom, for more details in the article the slatted ceiling in the bathroom.

Also specifications aluminum slatted ceiling allows you to install it in the kitchen, where good ventilation is needed.

Read about the advantages of slatted ceilings for the kitchen on our website.

Steel slatted ceiling

Steel panels are usually installed in warehouses. Steel is durable, provides sound insulation and is a good reflector, moreover, this material is cheaper than aluminum. But steel can rust over time, so it is better to install steel rails only in dry rooms.

Plastic slatted ceiling

Such ceilings can also be called universal, they are immune to dampness and humidity, besides, plastic is an order of magnitude cheaper than its metal counterparts.

Plastic slatted ceilings do not require special care, which is important for modern housewives. This is why plastic suspended ceilings have become widespread in bathrooms and kitchens.

They are also often used in offices, warehouses and other commercial premises.

The appearance of the rails

As for the very appearance of the panels, everything is simple here: the slats are perforated and solid (solid). Most often you come across solid slatted suspended ceilings.

They consist of solid panels without any additional holes.

.

Perforated panels speak for themselves. They are made by punching equidistant holes on sheet material... They are advised to be installed in rooms where good ventilation is required.

Advantages and disadvantages of slatted ceilings

Sometimes one "cons" weighs much more than a few "pros", so we will consider in detail all the pros and cons of rack ceilings.

Advantages

    Ease of installation

    Hide irregularities or defects in the original ceiling

    Versatility - due to properties such as fire safety, moisture resistance are applicable in any room

    Practical - no special maintenance required

    Large selection of colors, materials, panel sizes

    Reliability - rack and pinion suspension systems will last up to 50 years

    Aesthetics - looks very nice with the appropriate design of the room

disadvantages

    Lowers the level of ceilings, so it is better to choose glossy panels that will reflect the room in themselves and visually enlarge it

    One-piece dismantling - certain panels cannot be removed, only the entire ceiling

    The relatively high prices make many wonder if it's worth it.

    But in this case, the quality justifies the price.

Types of ceiling slats

Decorating ceilings with suspended systems prevents the lengthy and difficult process of leveling and cutting. One of these types is ceiling ceiling, which is a system of narrow plates held by a frame to fix the suspension.


There are two main types of ceilings:

first

Clean it up. The plates interact with each other, which is the gap between them. These gaps can be decorated with special inserts or remain so.

Master class: installing ceiling strips with your own hands

This type of flight is used in rooms with high wall heights where slots are barely visible. Because of the gap natural ventilation inter-quarter space.

In addition to apartments, open ceilings are also widely used in offices, shops and stores.

2. Closing. The panels are installed end-to-end, and the tightness of the connections ensures a "language" system.

Reiki is usually made from the following materials:

aluminum. Such ceilings are strong and light. They fully tolerate fluctuations in temperature and humidity, while they do not corrode. The most commonly used aluminum ceiling grilles in kitchens and bathrooms, due to the above properties.

steel. In most cases, it is used for finishing ceilings in warehouses.

The material is less expensive than aluminum but can be thinned so it is only suitable for drying dry areas. They differ in power and sound insulation.

Plastics. In fact, it is a versatile type of lumbar flow that has excellent moisture resistance and lightness.

Plus, plastic is much cheaper than any metal. Once installed, it does not need any special care and can be used in rooms for any purpose.

As for the texture of the rails, they are most often monolithic, without holes. However, in order to achieve an adequate level of ventilation, a separate line produces perforated perforated ceilings that resemble a beautiful mesh with small holes.

There is also a wide range of sizes and shades to choose from, so it's not hard to find the right ceiling for a particular room. The service life of such a coating, taking into account the basic operational recommendations, should be at least 50 years.

Overview of the main types of slatted ceilings: aluminum, zinc, plastic. Analysis of how to install them. DIY bathroom rack ceiling installation guide.


In previous articles, we did an overview of ceilings and ceilings from, today let's deal with rack suspended structures.

Rack ceilings, first appearing on the domestic construction market in the early 90s, and today they do not lose their popularity. They got their name due to the geometric features, since they form such suspended ceilings from narrow aluminum or zinc slats.

Mirror slatted suspended ceiling

The reason for their particular popularity is the attractive appearance of the suspended structure, under the walls of which you can successfully decorate the uneven surface of the main ceiling. In addition, they are renowned for their ease of installation without the use of additional equipment... Therefore, making a rack ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands will be within the power of anyone.

It is enough just to correctly choose the component parts and know the key points of the installation of the structure.

Types and advantages of rack systems

A slatted ceiling is a structure that includes a suspended frame system and cladding panels. Material for manufacturing finishing panels most often plastic, galvanized steel or aluminum is protruding.

Scheme: device rack system

Rack structures made of polyvinyl chloride are lightweight, but low strength. Zinc ceiling slats are more susceptible to corrosion. And therefore, it is not advisable to install them in bathrooms and kitchens, the humidity in which often exceeds the threshold of 70%.

The "golden mean" can be considered aluminum panels, successfully combining positive properties and galvanized counterparts. Soft material not afraid of water and does not corrode. Will relieve such a ceiling from extra costs in case of flooding by neighbors.

There are two options for installing rack shelves:

  • Closed type - assumes installation metal frame and installation of the panels themselves on it. An inter-lath insert is placed in the gap between adjacent panels, which makes the structure decorative.

Scheme: installation of a closed-type slatted ceiling

  • Open type - does not provide for filling the inter-lath space. They form a coherent and smooth surface.

Open-type systems have good ventilation, thereby eliminating the settling of water condensate on the rack surface. But regardless of the installation method, the arrangement of the rack ceiling eliminates the need for the construction of powerful frame systems.

Schematic: open mounting

As for the aesthetic aspect, thanks to the variety of textures and wide color palette using rack and pinion structures, you can successfully implement the most daring ideas. Ideas for design can be gleaned from photos on thematic forums on the network.

A spectacular design can be created using curly slatted panels. Arcuate elements help shape curves, creating a smooth transition between two rooms with different ceiling heights.

Video selection: options for finishing kitchens with river ceilings

Suspended construction accessories

To make a rack ceiling with your own hands, it is important to know the types and purpose of the main elements of the system.

All components that are used for the installation of rack ceilings have a non-flammable base. And thanks to the dust- and moisture-repellent coating, the parts are strong and durable.
On sale there are slatted ceilings that can be assembled like a designer. It is also possible to customize the suspension system, in which aluminum or galvanized panels may have non-standard dimensions.

The main elements of the slatted ceiling are:

  • Stingers - slats equipped with grooves are designed to fix the protrusions cladding panels... They may have different sizes and are selected in accordance with the size of the rails themselves. These strips allow you to disassemble part of the structure without much hassle for repairing broken ones. engineering communications or replacing damaged parts.

Suspended ceiling accessories

  • Suspensions - can be spring type or equipped with spokes. They are designed to hold suspension system, preventing it from bending. Due to the length of the suspensions, it is possible to lower the ceiling to a predetermined height, which makes it possible to place ventilation equipment in the formed niche or to lay electrical wiring.
  • Guide and intermediate profiles are necessary for arranging the frame. They are made of aluminum with a thickness of 0.3-0.5 mm. Length finished products is 4-6 meters.
  • Cladding panels - can be made of aluminum, plastic or steel. They often have a mirrored or embossed surface. The width of the slats ranges from 50-200 mm, and the length of the products can reach 10 meters.

Types of guides

Tip: To correctly calculate the number of rails, profile and fasteners for installing a rack ceiling with your own hands, you can use the rack ceiling calculator. To carry out calculations, it is enough just to set the parameters of the bathroom, on the basis of which the exact volumes of the material can be obtained.

Sequence of installation work

Do-it-yourself technology for installing a rack ceiling includes a number of main stages:

    1. Surface preparation. At this stage, the height of the ceiling and the distance between the surfaces are determined. These parameters depend on what will be laid in the intermediate niches, for example: pipes, ventilation ducts or cable channels. The height of the ceiling space is also determined taking into account the dimensions of the selected lighting fixtures. LED lamp it is necessary to provide at least 130 mm of height. For the installation of built-in luminaires, it is enough to allocate the minimum area required for the wiring and mounting of fixtures.

Attention: In bathrooms, the height of the walls of which does not exceed 2.5 meters, the ceiling space is minimized. For this, the stingers are fixed directly to the overlap, aligning with special spacers. For illumination in these cases, choose pendant lights... The ceiling surface is leveled and cleaned, only after that they proceed to its marking.

Installation of a slatted ceiling

    1. Surface marking. To install a rack ceiling with your own hands, you need a set of tools that includes
      • Roulette;
      • Electric drill;
      • Screwdriver;
      • Pliers;
      • Scissors for metal or a saw.

The markings begin to be done from the most even wall in the room. Having retreated from the base ceiling to the allotted distance for the installation of the structure, draw a parallel line for the installation of the stinger.

Surface marking

Tip: In order for the line to be located in a horizontal plane, the masters recommend using a building level.

From this line, moving along the wall, draw parallel lines, maintaining an interval of 1.2 meters. Having drawn the main lines for the frame on the wall, points are marked on the ceiling surface for the installation of lighting fixtures.

The technology for installing a rack ceiling in a bathroom with your own hands is clearly demonstrated in the video


Maintenance of a slatted ceiling does not require much effort. To remove dirt, you can use traditional detergents... The washed surface is polished to a high gloss with a soft cloth.

How to install a rack ceiling: video

Rack ceiling: photo