Fastening the corrugated pipe to the wall. Cable fastener - choice of fastening method

The cable is fastened to the wall in different ways: with clamps, brackets, etc. The choice of the appropriate option is made taking into account the purpose of the room, operating conditions. Take into account the type of material from which the wall is built. Different fasteners are designed to fix a cable that differs in characteristics (with insulation, without a box, stranded, etc.).

It is a mistake to believe that the wiring can be fixed on any flat surface. Bearing structures and partitions are built from materials that differ in properties:

thin, soft;
dense;
solid.

Wall surfaces made of porous materials (foam, aerated concrete) are considered soft. This group also includes drywall, plastic, fiberboard. These materials are able to withstand a moderate load, deform under the influence of strong pressure. To prevent the destruction of the entire structure, you should choose methods for attaching the cable to the wall, based on the use of fasteners that have an extended middle / end part. These can be dowels of different types.

The group of dense materials includes chipboard, wood, gypsum. Surfaces covered with plaster are also durable. The top layer of the material has a dense structure. If the question is how to fix the cable on such a wall, consider 2 options: nails, self-tapping screws.

The first one is less reliable. Such fasteners can be dispensed with if it is used as a temporary measure or if the area will not be used in the future. Due to mobility, the strength of fixing the nail in the wall decreases. To fix the screws, pre-make holes of a smaller diameter. However, this measure is used only if fasteners are difficult to install.

Hard materials: concrete, brick. Dowels are attached to such walls, and then screw holders (brackets, clamps, ties, etc.). When you need to install the cable on a brick, concrete wall, the diameter of the hole must match the size of the dowel. In other cases, the difference should be 1 mm.

Corrugated cable, pipe or cable channel

If open wiring is performed, this method is preferred. This is due to the fact that the wires are hidden in a corrugation or pipe, a special channel made in the form of a box. Due to the use of a closed design, the safety of cable operation is increased. However, this method is much less commonly used for laying large bundles of wire.

Cable channels

Existing varieties are made from:

galvanized steel;
plastic;
aluminum.

The cable channel can be made in the form of a rectangular box, the outer surface of some products has a radius. Such varieties are often installed along the wall: on the floor or instead of a baseboard. Other types of cable channel:

trunk;
parapet.

The first of the options is designed for laying wire over significant distances. These boxes are larger. Parapet analogues are installed in offices in order to protect against damage. They have a flattened shape, due to which such boxes are less likely to touch when moving. To install the cable channel, dowels and screws are used, as well as liquid nails.

Fastening with clips

This method is often used in open wiring. It is designed for fast cable attachment. The wires are fixed with clips with a small step. Such fasteners are installed more often on the wall than on the ceiling, since some varieties are characterized by an open design. The wires won't stay in them. Fasteners of this type have the form of arches, a closed or open circuit, installed using nails, self-tapping screws.

Clips are selected according to the type of material: metal, plastic. There are holes on the arms, thanks to which the fasteners are fixed on the wall. In this case, dowel clips or a variant with a hole for a nail are used. Such elements are most suitable for mounting bundles of wires.

There is another option for fixing this product with an adhesive single-sided tape. Fastening the wire to the wall in this case does not require drilling the surface. The type of clips is selected taking into account the type of base material.

exposed wires

Cable fastening is carried out with a certain step. The wiring remains open. For comparison, if the cable is laid in a strobe, you can completely hide it. However, open wire is much easier to maintain. In this case, detachable and one-piece fasteners are used. If you plan to increase the number of cores, use the first of the types.

Metal bracket

Such cable fasteners can have 1 or 2 lugs. It is fixed on the wall with nails, self-tapping screws. This type of product is used when laying the cable in a metal sleeve. Supports heavy wires. The bracket is selected taking into account the diameter of the metal sleeve.

Dowel-screed

If you are interested in the question of how to fix the cable using such products, you should know that a dowel is first inserted into the wall. It is equipped with a special lock on a flexible plastic band. For fastening, detachable and one-piece fasteners can be used. The disadvantage of this method is the lack of a rigid fixation of the structure, since the dowel is simply connected to a flexible tape.

Ties with a platform

This option is outwardly similar to the previously considered analogue. However, in this case, the dowel has a platform, due to which such an element is firmly fixed in the wall. If a flexible cable tie with a hole for a self-tapping screw is used for fastening, it is not necessary to use a separate dowel. This method involves the need to install self-tapping screws with a certain step.

Dowel clamp

Outwardly, it simultaneously resembles a dowel and a collar. For fixing in the wall, notches are provided located at the ends of the fastener. First, the cable is tied, and you can attach the wire to the wall by laying a kind of dowel in a pre-made hole. The product is held thanks to the notches - they do not allow the clamp to slip out.

Dowel type bases

Outwardly, they resemble a dowel and a self-tapping screw, they have a hole for installing a plastic tie. Flexible elements are purchased separately. First, a hole is made in the wall. Then a fastener is installed, and the head with the hole should be located on the wall surface. At the last stage, using a removable tie, the cable is fastened.

insulators

This mounting option is used when laying a cable in a wooden house. It is also sometimes used as decoration. First, an insulator is installed on the wall surface (a ceramic barrel with a hole for a nail or screw in the center). Then a twisted wire is pulled between such elements.

Homemade fasteners

If the cable is laid in hidden areas, you can use self-made elements: they are created using self-tapping screws and dowels, and old wiring or metal flexible plates are used as a platform for fixing the wires. After installing the fasteners, strapping is performed. In this case, the free ends of the flexible platform or the old wire are connected to each other after laying the cable in the loop.

When installing the cable, various fastening methods are used. It all depends on the specific conditions, financial capabilities and tastes of the owners of the premises. When performing these works, everything must be securely fixed, the insulation is not broken, and the appearance is consistent with the environment and be favorable.

Types of cable and wire fastening to the wall

The materials from which walls and ceilings are made can have different densities and structures. The cable, depending on the task, can be completely or partially "hidden" in strobes (groove recesses), plastic pipes, corrugations or special trays. And if this is not very necessary, you should fix it more carefully.

All this can be done with a wide variety of tools. We will try to consider in more detail the most common types of fastening.

General rules for cable installation

When laying the cable on the walls or ceiling, it is recommended to be guided by the following rules:

When using screws, dowels and self-tapping screws, try to tighten them until they stop. Otherwise, the protruding cap may damage the insulation.
The maximum distance between attachment points should not exceed 50 cm, and at bends (turns) it can be reduced to 5-10 cm.
Laying is carried out without humps, evenly and preferably in a straight line (horizontally or vertically).
If a margin is provided, it should be made less noticeable.
With hidden laying of cables in the strobe, they are laid so that they do not interfere with further wall decoration.
If you have suspended or stretch ceilings, there is no need to make strobes under them.
The main tool that should be used during installation is a drill, puncher, screwdriver, screwdrivers and a hammer.

Methods of fastening to walls made of various materials

Depending on the type of surface, the method of fastening is also selected.

Soft and thin . These include walls made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, fiberboard, plastic, drywall, etc. Simple fasteners will not hold here. More reliable and stable will be special devices in which the end or middle part is made extended. These can be butterfly dowels, umbrellas or dowels with a drill.
Dense . These are wooden, gypsum, plastered surfaces, OSB and chipboard. In this case, ordinary self-tapping screws or simple nails are used. If the self-tapping screws are screwed in with great effort, you can pre-drill holes with a smaller diameter.
Solid . Brick and concrete walls are the most common materials in this category. Here, even in pre-drilled holes, it will be problematic to screw self-tapping screws just like that. It is in this case that dowels should be used. Most often, they consist of a plastic cap and a screw. Holes are drilled in the wall. For walls made of concrete and brick, the diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the dowel (drill 6 mm - dowel 6 mm). For less dense surfaces, the drill should be thinner by 1 mm (drill 5 mm - dowel 6 mm). Caps are inserted into the holes, the end of which should not protrude from the surface. Then, with the help of screws, fasteners (clamp, plates, etc.) are attached to them.

Cable channels of various sizes

Cable channel is a very common way of fastening wires and cables in an open way. According to many electricians, this is the most convenient mounting method. The cable channel is made of galvanized steel, non-combustible plastic, aluminum and represents the simplest U - shaped design. Wires are placed in this technical box and closed with a one-sided or two-sided cover. They differ in materials of manufacture, color design, dimensions, design (which cover), moisture protection, and also in design:

floor;
trunk;
plinth;
parapet.

Types of cable channels

When installing the channel cable, markings are first made on the wall, then fastened with self-tapping screws, dowel nails or “liquid nails”. The video shows how to properly install a PVC box.

Fastening with clips

These fasteners are quite in demand for open cable laying. Clips after installation look pretty neat. They can be of various sizes, shapes and be metal or plastic,

A simple version has the form of a bow, on both sides of which there are holes for dowels or self-tapping screws. A good and simple design, but there is a small minus - for installation it is necessary to drill two holes. This slightly increases the installation time.

metal clips

Made from metal strip. For installation, they first “wrap” the cable with it, align the holes and fix it on the surface. Can be used on both wall and ceiling. For the latter, they are inconvenient only because it is necessary to drill a lot of holes.

They are mainly used for the installation of cables in corrugations for hidden and outdoor installation. Corresponding clip sizes are available for different pipe diameters. They are mounted on concrete walls with dowels, and on wooden surfaces - with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The installation can be carried out both for one cable, and to combine several pieces, for fastening the wiring bundle. The design of the clips allows you to assemble them into a single block. Each has locks (special grooves) on the side, with their help they make a reliable connection of the clips to each other. The wiring with the help of these elements is neat and even.

Self-adhesive clip

They are used to fasten cables or wires of various shapes, they can be made in plastic or metal form. The surface where it will be attached must be cleaned of all dust and dirt. The clip on the back has a one-sided adhesive tape. Such fasteners are used to fasten the cable to plastic panels or furniture. There is no need to drill holes in expensive or fragile materials.

Clips with a nail

They are made in the form of a plastic bracket, on the side of which there is a hole for a nail. The shape can be very different. Used for open mounting on wooden and similar density walls. In the photo above.

This fastening is very fast and convenient. It is often used when it is necessary to pass telephone, television and other small-section cables along the plinth.

Metal bracket

Used for cable installation in metal sleeves. They have one or two ears, in which there is a hole for fastening. Sizes may vary. They are selected based on the diameter of the metal sleeve. Staples are well suited for holding massive cables. They are easy to install and remove. In the photo above.

dowel

The use of dowels is justified by ease of installation, versatility of use and low price. They can be carried out, both hidden and open installation on walls and ceilings made of solid materials.

Dowel-screed

Made from non-flammable plastic. It is a convenient fastener. Used for quick installation of open or hidden gaskets.

The coupler can have a detachable or one-piece lock. The first option allows, if necessary, to change the number of cores. Installation is the same as with conventional dowels.

Ties with a platform

It is a dowel with a thread and a platform (square or rectangular), to which a coupler is attached. These fasteners (KSP) are convenient for quick installation. Made from non-flammable plastic.

KSP - screed with mounting platform for dowel

Initially, a dowel is installed, on which a platform with a screed is wound. After that, the wires are attached. Installation is suitable for wooden, brick and concrete walls and ceilings. With the help of such platforms, several cables can be attached at once.

Dowel clamp

Used for quick fastening of one cable. The clamp is very easy to install. A puncher (if the wall is concrete) drills a hole of the required length and diameter. After that, the clamp is carefully opened, the cable is laid in it and the sharp end is thrust into the hole. The clamp will not fall out of it due to the double-sided notches on its sides.

The shape of the clamp must match the cross-sectional shape of the cable. Basically it is either round or rectangular. These installation elements are low cost and reliable in fastening.

Dowel type bases

Dowel base (DB) type for screeds, made of plastic. "Two in one" - like a self-tapping screw and a dowel. The head has a hole through which a tie is inserted to tighten the cable.

Installation is very simple. A bandage is driven into the prepared hole. A screed is installed and wiring is laid in it. Then tightening is carried out.

Building mix

It is used for hidden cable laying in wall and ceiling strobes. For this, gypsum mortar is often used. This installation has a special name - "freezing". There is nothing complicated in this method. They make an alabaster batch and the cable is stuck in the strobe in places evenly spaced from each other. This should be done promptly, since the gypsum sets quickly enough.

Gypsum mortar for fixing wiring

Such "freezing" is well suited for installation in a single cable strobe. But this method is also used as an additional fastening of several cables, for securing already installed brackets, dowels, clamps, etc. After all this, the strobe channels are filled with plaster mortar.

If the laying volumes are large, frequent preparation of the solution and fixing the cable significantly reduces the installation speed. But in many cases it is completely justified.

insulators

In most cases, attaching wire to insulators is used as retro or decorative. This method of open laying is used for wiring both in the house and in the bath.

Retro wiring, mounting on insulators

The barrel is fastened with a screw or nail to the wall and a pre-twisted wire is fixed to it. You can twist it yourself or buy already twisted.

Homemade fasteners

It often happens that there are no suitable brackets, pads or clamps for attaching the cable. All these elements can be made by yourself. Of course, in their design, they are likely to be inferior to factory elements, but in some cases this is not so important. And if hands grow from where it is needed, then fasteners can be quite a worthy replacement for branded fasteners.

Homemade fasteners for wires

For the manufacture of installation elements, you can use a wide variety of materials. It can be single-core or two-core wires, plastic, galvanized sheet and much more. Here are some of the DIY options.

We cut two-core pieces of wire, the length is selected depending on the wire being attached. In the middle of each we pass a self-tapping screw.
We wrap the same, but single-core pieces around the dowel or self-tapping screw head.
Cut tin strips. In the middle we break through a nail or self-tapping screw.

The advantages of such homemade fasteners are as follows:

ease of manufacture and installation;
there is no need to search for fasteners and purchase them in stores;
the ability to use (install and replace) homemade products repeatedly;
You can attach one or more wires at the same time.

The choice of accessories that make life easier for masters of all stripes is simply huge today. The market segment intended for the hard work of electrical workers was no exception.

Depending on the method of laying the wires, the fasteners for the electrical wiring also differ. In this article, we will try to cover the entire modern assortment as fully as possible, so it will be useful for both working craftsmen and those who prefer to do everything with their own hands.

Having fixed it so that in the future, when plastering or embedding strobes, it was securely fixed and did not interfere? To do this, it is important to remember two rules: place the wires geometrically correctly in the places recommended for this and use reliable fasteners. Which of them are provided for flush mounting, we will consider in this chapter.

Dowel clamp

This mount is one of the most common. It is quite easy to mount and provides a secure fit, and the price of this product will not burden your wallet much. There are several varieties of this mount, which differ from each other not only externally, but also functionally.

So:

The simplest version of this product is a bracket-type mount. It is a strip of plastic with locking notches at both ends, 6-8 mm wide. The size and shape of the mount is selected in accordance with the cable to be mounted. The quality of fixation is average, since there is no spacer element. Therefore, the use of such brackets for ceiling mounting can create some inconvenience.

To fix the element in a concrete or any other base, it is enough to pass a cable through it and install it in a pre-drilled hole of the desired diameter. For greater reliability, it is recommended to install brackets at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other.
This type of fastener is designed for wires with a diameter of 6-25 mm. It is also possible to fasten cable bundles, for which it is necessary to take into account the type of insulation that must be suitable for group laying.

The next type is a dowel-clamp with a spacer. The design of this product differs significantly from that discussed above. The photo shows that it contains a durable plastic rod, which is hammered after the toothed part is installed in the mounting hole.

This type of fastening is more durable and can withstand loads up to 8 kg. The cable clamp is made in the form of a fastened clamp, which allows you to fix power cables, corrugations and even smooth-walled pipes with a diameter of up to 32 mm.
This fastener has one drawback - after installation, it cannot be reused. Therefore, when using this type of connection, be careful when placing attachment points.

How to properly wire the house

installation site- this is a mount that resembles a kind of hybrid of the previous two options. It is a dowel equipped with a mounting head with a hole for a plastic or metal tie. Made from nylon or polypropylene. In the presence of a solid base, it keeps perfectly in the wall, due to the shape of the rod. With it, you can easily fix both a single cable and a whole group.

Advice! If you decide to use this type of fastening outdoors, then make sure that the clamps used are UV-resistant. The instructions on the label will clarify this information - most often such ties are black.

Cable clamps

The following is a mount made in the form of a clamp. This design is more durable than a dowel-clamp, since a metal screw is used for spacers, thanks to which, if necessary, the entire structure can be easily dismantled and moved to another location.

Fixing the wire is carried out simultaneously with mounting to the wall. It is important that the diameter of the cable being fastened clearly matches the diameter of the clamp, which is necessary in order to avoid sagging or squeezing the wire insulation.

Fasteners type PP

Another type of clamps is a PP type dowel. It has several varieties that differ from each other in shape and size, which are determined based on the type of wire being fixed.

Mounting is similar to a mounting pad or “bracket”, the only difference is that the cable is pressed directly against the wall. Also, using this mount, you can install pipes. If necessary, this connection can be easily dismantled.

Homemade fasteners

If at the right time you didn’t have a single staple at hand, and the household goods store is far away, then don’t rush to get upset, because making a home-made analogue will not take much effort and time.

For work you will need: ordinary dowel-screws or dowel-nails, as well as a two-wire wire or galvanized iron plates. We cut the wire (iron) into pieces of 5 - 7 cm long. In the middle we make a hole and put our dowel in there. Everything is ready, you can clearly see the result in the next photo.

It is also possible to use a single-core wire (wire) - in this case, the dowel must be wrapped with wire at the base of the cap.

For fixing the cable in the strobe, a quick-hardening gypsum mortar is perfect. This method requires some skill, since the time before solidification is very short, and you need to work it out very quickly. Therefore, knead the plaster in small portions.

To facilitate the task, we will offer one original way to fix the wire before the mixture hardens. If the strobe has even edges, then use pieces of corrugation that will serve as spring struts. This is enough to hold the cable.

Mounting brackets for surface mounting

If the electrician in the house is carried out after the repair, then the method of open wiring is used for this. It is simpler in execution, but due to the fact that the wires remain visible, it requires more care during installation, and the fasteners used here, in addition to the main function, should bring some aesthetics.

Cable channels

One of the most convenient, beautiful and at the same time inexpensive ways of open mounting is mounting using cable channels. It is a rectangular pipe with a removable front panel, which is attached to the wall using ordinary self-tapping screws, dowels, screws or nails.

After installation, a group of wires is placed inside and closed with a lid. You can easily choose the right color scheme and even texture, thanks to which this mount will discreetly fit into the interior of your room.

There are more complex options, one of which is shown in the diagram above. Most often they are presented in the form of electrical skirting boards. To install such a system will require a certain qualification.

Clips

This type of connection is intended for fastening cables placed in an additional insulator - a polymer corrugation. Due to its rough appearance, it is most often used in inconspicuous places and technical rooms, it is also excellent for outdoor installation.

To install the clips, use self-tapping screws or dowel screws, then simply snap the corrugation into them. The resulting connection will be very reliable and practical.

Insulators for retro style

Today, when creating an interior in the “retro” style, they often use the open-mounted method, which was used at the dawn of the century of electrification, for which modern manufacturers produce special wires and fasteners. Such wiring looks very nice in wooden houses.

The cable is fixed using a ceramic insulator, which provides a safe gap between the conductor and the wooden base. During installation, be careful not to overtighten the screw to avoid damage to the insulator.

Staples

In the above photos you can see the types of brackets for direct mounting the wire to the surface. Their installation is simple and intuitive, but due to the risk of direct cable contact with the wall, use this fastener only if the wires are double or triple insulated. Most often they are used to fix a television cable.

Mounting area

If you need to fix the wire in places where surface damage is undesirable (furniture, tiles), then use the mounting pads. They come in various shapes and colors, but they have one function - just stick such fasteners in the right place, and you can stretch the wire.

Specialized mounts

How to properly conduct wiring in the house, if there is no possibility to drill the surface at the cable locations, or the type of conductor has unusual specifics? To do this, rare, but no less useful mounting devices will come to your aid.

So:

The metal mounting tape is designed to fasten the cable in compliance with the desired laying step. It is used when installing underfloor heating, anti-icing systems and heating outdoor areas. It is very convenient to use when fastening large groups of conductors. It has a width of 21 mm and a distance between flexible fixation points of 25 mm. There are two types - copper and steel galvanized.
When installing anti-icing systems, it is necessary to pull the cable inside the downpipes. There are two types of fasteners designed for this - galvanized tape and special plastic clips.
Separately, we note aluminum tape, designed for installing wires on water pipes. It provides maximum heat transfer and high tightness of the cable to the pipe.

The reader who has read this article, for sure, understood how to properly conduct the wiring in the house and what devices will suit him the most. However, we strongly recommend that you watch the video presented on this page. Perhaps you will discover something new for yourself.

The corrugated pipe is the best accessory for wire protection. It allows you to prevent damage to it during physical impacts, and also does not allow liquids or dangerous chemicals to get on the cable insulation. In addition, corrugated pipes are able to prevent the spread of fire - they effectively extinguish sparks and open flames.

When installing such accessories for wiring, the question most often arises of how to organize the fastening of the corrugated pipe to the wall. We will consider which fixation methods are used most often, and what are their advantages.

Detachable connection

The most popular is the laying of electrical pipes using clips and clamps (with or without a latch). The simplest clip does not have specialized latches, which somewhat simplifies the removal of the pipeline, but reduces the strength of the fastening as a whole.

The advantage of this method is its simplicity - professional help is not required to fix the pipe. It is enough just to fix the clip or bracket on the wall, and then put the corrugated pipe into it. In the case of a clip with a latch (or sliding), the latch will have to be clamped manually, but the clip will snap into place on its own, due to the natural elasticity of the material used in its manufacture.

Fastening a corrugated pipe to a wall can be carried out using various means - for example, anchors, bolts, "molly" and others. The selection of specific fasteners is made depending on what material the wall is made of.

If we are talking about temporary fastening of a corrugated pipe, you can use specialized fasteners with clamps-screeds. Permanent (non-separable) fastening is represented by metal brackets. Attention: on our website, clamps and clamps-couplings are placed in another section - Clamps, fasteners, terminal blocks! In this section, you can buy clips for electrical pipes of various modifications and sizes.

Permanent connection

One of the options for attaching a plastic corrugated pipe to the wall surface is to use metal supports, represented by hooks or special platforms. The principles of laying corrugations are very similar to pulling a cable between power transmission towers used in electrical mains. However, in this case, insulators can be dispensed with, since the plastic corrugation can withstand discharges with voltages up to 1–2 kV.

The supports are attached to the wall with dowels or similar clamps. It is worth remembering that the penetration depth of fasteners into the wall will be the higher, the greater the load on the clamps. The hole must be large enough if a metal tray is laid on hooks or platforms - this type of cable laying is used in various engineering structures.

Mounting to the wall with the help of a special polymer adhesive is also considered one-piece. It should be used in cases where damage to the substrate surface is unacceptable or impossible. An example of the scope of application of polymer adhesive for fixing corrugations is the laying of a PVC pipeline on a gypsum board profile. In addition, with the help of such material it is possible to lay pipes on other metal structures.

How to choose the fastening pitch?

One of the most important parameters that you should pay attention to when organizing the fastening of a corrugated pipe to the wall is the fixation step. It means the distance at which clips or other types of fasteners will be located.

If we are talking about 20 mm pipes, then a distance of 70–75 mm should be maintained between individual clips or brackets. This indicator will avoid sagging of the corrugated pipe and its deformation. In addition, in this position, the cable will be in a state of minimum tension, which will ensure its durability and resistance to physical stress.

The distance between fasteners increases proportionally depending on the diameter of the pipelines used. So, if the pipe diameter is 25 mm, the distance will be 80–85 mm, and for 40 mm products - 100–105. The maximum distance must be maintained between pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters - it will be 1.2–1.25 meters.

What mounts to choose?

It is also worth choosing clamps according to the type of material from which they are made. Metal staples or other holders are considered the best option, but they are quite expensive and not always easy to use. Therefore, many experts advise using plastic clips. They are made from the same material as pipes - for example, PVC. If it is necessary to use holders of increased strength, then preference should be given to products made of ABS plastic. Plastic clamps-screeds should always (!!) be used only nylon.

: laying and fastening the cable to the wall, floor or ceiling has to be done in an apartment with a rough finish, during redevelopment or repair. Also, when installing new household appliances, you have to pull a separate line from the electrical panel.

Consider how to fix the wires on the wall so that they do not spoil the interior with their appearance, comply with electrical safety rules and be protected from external influences and accidental damage.

Depending on how you decide to wire the rooms - in an open or hidden way, the method of attaching the wires to the wall is chosen. In this article, we will look at popular cable attachment methods - dowels, ties, staples, clips, their pros and cons.

Cable fixing

All this can be done with a wide variety of tools. We will try to consider in more detail the most common types of fastening.

General rules

In principle, the recommendations are universal and simple. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, at the turns of the track, fasteners are installed at a small distance from the bend - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.

When using screws, dowels and self-tapping screws, try to tighten them until they stop. Otherwise, the protruding cap may damage the insulation.
The maximum distance between attachment points should not exceed 50 cm, and at bends (turns) it can be reduced to 5-10 cm.
Laying is carried out without humps, evenly and preferably in a straight line (horizontally or vertically).
If a margin is provided, it should be made less noticeable.
With hidden laying of cables in the strobe, they are laid so that they do not interfere with further wall decoration.
If you have suspended or stretch ceilings, there is no need to make strobes under them.
The main tool that should be used during installation is a drill, puncher, screwdriver, screwdrivers and a hammer.

Fasteners for concealed gasket

If cables are laid during the repair phase, laying inside walls, floors or ceilings is increasingly being used. Since the result of the work is invisible, little attention is paid to aesthetics. But a lot of attention is paid to reliability and safety - access for rework is very, very complicated.

Ties of any type - with dowels, mounting platforms, etc.
You can choose the appropriate size clip type.
Make homemade fasteners.

If you are making a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the wiring can be attached to hangers or laid inside the profiles. Only during installation, do not lay the cables close to the profile wall - so as not to damage during operation.

For laying large bundles of wires on the ceiling, it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can still use the same fasteners. The only bad thing is that you have to drill a lot of holes for installing fasteners in concrete or brick. This is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. About how best to optimize the work in this case a little lower.

If the presence of false walls or a finished floor is not expected, recesses are made under the wires - strobes. Wires are laid in them, then they are covered with a solution and after that they are already finishing.

From an aesthetic standpoint, it's perfect. From the point of view of operation, it is problematic, since it is almost impossible to replace the wiring without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, the wiring is done just like that, just trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with some margin in terms of power or the number of pairs.

According to the safety rules, in combustible walls (wooden, panel and frame), the cable is laid in a non-combustible sheath or in an all-metal tray. If we are talking about a non-combustible shell, then usually it is a corrugated pipe made of a non-combustible plastic compound. In this case, the sheath itself is attached, inside which the cable is located.

This does not particularly affect the choice of the type of fastening, but it does affect the selection of fastener sizes - it is simply necessary that the latches can cover the shell.

Laying cables inside combustible walls is difficult: the requirements are very stringent. They can be made in frame or panel houses, but it is very difficult in timber or log houses. It is necessary to lay all-metal trays in the walls.

At the same time, a large amount of wood has to be taken out, which does not improve the thermal performance, and it is not possible to make the appearance ideal. Therefore, in wooden houses, they often resort to an open mounting method - over the walls.

Fasteners for open laying

For outdoor cable laying, more stringent requirements are imposed on the appearance of fasteners. Since everything is in plain sight, it is necessary to select the most inconspicuous options, or vice versa, the most decorative, for example, retro wiring.

Installation in cable channels. These are plastic trays that are mounted along the walls. Not the best method in terms of aesthetics, but if it is necessary to lay a large number of wires in wooden houses, perhaps the cheapest and most convenient for installation.
Laying a certain number of wires in special skirting boards.
Using staples from a stapler. The most inconspicuous fastener, besides it is installed quickly.
Fastening with brackets and clips, painted to match the cable.
There is a choice, but all methods are not ideal, because everyone decides for himself how and with what to fix the cable.

Attaching the wire to the wall

Depending on the type of surface, the method of fastening is also selected.

Soft and thin.

These include walls made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, fiberboard, plastic, drywall, etc. Simple fasteners will not hold here. More reliable and stable will be special devices in which the end or middle part is made extended. These can be butterfly dowels, umbrellas or dowels with a drill.

Dense.

These are wooden, gypsum, plastered surfaces, OSB and chipboard. In this case, ordinary self-tapping screws or simple nails are used. If the self-tapping screws are screwed in with great effort, you can pre-drill holes with a smaller diameter.

Solid.

Brick and concrete walls are the most common materials in this category. Here, even in pre-drilled holes, it will be problematic to screw self-tapping screws just like that. It is in this case that dowels should be used.

Most often, they consist of a plastic cap and a screw. Holes are drilled in the wall. For walls made of concrete and brick, the diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the dowel (drill 6 mm - dowel 6 mm).

For less dense surfaces, the drill should be 1 mm thinner (drill 5 mm - dowel 6 mm). Caps are inserted into the holes, the end of which should not protrude from the surface. Then, with the help of screws, fasteners (clamp, plates, etc.) are attached to them.

Attaching the cable to the ceiling

It is necessary to attach cables to the ceiling mainly when installing stretch ceilings or ceilings made of plastic panels and drywall. In the case of drywall, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a suspension system to which you can fasten the wire harnesses with plastic ties.

In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because they use all the same clips and brackets, and you need to install a dowel under each (if the ceiling is made of concrete slab).

Using cable trays (described above).
After attaching a number of lines to the ceiling, hang small wire harnesses from them with plastic ties.
Use a long perforated strip of metal for fastening.

How to fix the cable in the strobe

It is necessary to take care of the laying of cable harnesses long before the final finishing of the premises: just when the apartment still does not have any furniture, no things, no wallpaper, no linoleum, nothing at all. In a word - bare walls, as in one well-known TV show.

On these bare walls, we determine and mark the route along which we will have cable lines. Marking can be done with a construction pencil and a level.

Here it would not be superfluous to recall that the cable lines should not be located anyhow, but go either horizontally under the ceiling (at a height of 2.5 m), or strictly vertically along a plumb line. No diagonal transitions and horizontal segments at a low level are strictly allowed.

When marking the walls, we immediately determine the location of the sockets, switches and, because the holes in the wall for their installation will need to be made at the same stage as the strobes for laying the cable.

The width of each strobe is determined in accordance with the number and section of the cable that will be fixed in it.

Shtroblenie

Having completed the markup, we move on to the next question, which is of paramount importance. What to grind? There are plenty to choose from.

Most often, a puncher with one of the special nozzles is used to make a strobe. The first of these nozzles is called the strobe. Strober is a slightly curved blade with a longitudinal groove. The end of this blade is pointed and is designed to deepen inside the punched strobe.

Work with a strobe should be in a purely shock mode, without rotation. The strobe from it turns out to be neat and deep. However, with the help of this device, a strobe wider than the strobe itself can be made only in a few steps, which, of course, is not very convenient.

Another nozzle often used for chasing with a hammer drill is a regular flat spatula. The principle of working with it is about the same as with a strobe, but the performance is slightly lower.

Ordinary sharp peaks for a perforator or even drills, oddly enough, are also sometimes used for chasing - when there is nothing else at hand, and the amount of work is very small.

And yet, one should not expect great productivity when chasing with a perforator, especially when it comes to chasing concrete walls. Therefore, with large amounts of work, many electricians use a disc cutting tool to perform strobes.

As such, an angle grinder (angle grinder) is often suitable, or, more simply, a grinder with a diamond segment disc. With its help, cuts are made along the edges of the strobe to the required depth, and the middle part is subsequently easily knocked out using the same perforator.

Despite the seemingly much larger number of work operations, chasing with a grinder is much more productive than the same work using only a puncher. The reason is that the grinder makes each cut very quickly in one single pass.

The most productive tool for chasing is a chasing cutter - a device very similar to a grinder. The wall chaser has two cutting discs parallel to each other.

The distance between these discs is adjustable, which means that you can set the width of the strobe within the required limits. The position of the disks relative to the supporting surface also changes, that is, the depth of chasing.

Disc cutting tools have only one drawback compared to a rotary hammer. Of course, there is a lot of dust and dirt when shaving with a perforator, but this dust flies from the cutting disc not even in clubs, but in a continuous stream.

If an electrician neglects personal protective equipment when chasing with a grinder or a chasing cutter, then after finishing several objects, he risks having a disease of the lungs and / or eyes.

Therefore, goggles, a respirator and earplugs when making strobs are far from a luxury, even if you work as a perforator. Your health is always more valuable.

Professional wall chasers, by the way, are equipped not only with a protective cover for discs, but also with a standard pipe for connecting an industrial vacuum cleaner, which can absorb most of the generated dust.

Installation of a cable in a strobe

And now the strobe is completed, the dust and fog have dissipated, and you can proceed with the installation of cables. Unfortunately, the requirement for the replacement of hidden electrical wiring when laying the cable in the strobe most often has to be neglected. The implementation of large and wide strobes, in which a pipe for cable wiring could be accommodated, is far from always possible.

Therefore, as a rule, cables are laid in bundles in a strobe, without any additional protection. The insulation of the most popular cable for home installation - VVGng - is quite reliable and does not fail with this installation method.

You can fix the cable in the strobe in one of the following ways:

With perforated strip.

It was these perforated nylon strips that were used in their mass in the construction of our "favorite" panel "Khrushchev". The strip was fastened across the strobe with dowels and securely held the entire mass of cables, regardless of their number.

How to fix the cable in the strobe using a mounting aluminum strip.

This is available at any electrical store. Actually, it is not necessary to buy it: if you have free time and patience, you can make it by cutting any thin and ductile metal.

For installation, the strip breaks through in the middle and is screwed to the bottom of the strobe using the popular self-tapping dowel pair. The cables are laid on top of the strip, and its ends are bent with pliers, forming a tight and reliable lock. The method, of course, is laborious, but still very popular.

It is quite possible to fasten the cable with alabaster.

We pull the cable line along the strobe and immediately fix it with a solution that we keep at hand. The disadvantage of this method is that the alabaster solution cannot be diluted in large quantities due to the fact that it dries very quickly.

The most "advanced" and productive way of fastening a cable in a strobe is fastening with dowel clamps.

The dowel-clamp is a dowel with an installation size of 6 mm. At the end of it there is a special loop that allows you to hold the cable harness. Thus, installation using dowel clamps is utterly simple: you just need to punch a number of holes with a puncher, and then insert dowel clamps with a fixed harness into them.

Types of fasteners for cables and wires

For any type of wiring and cable installation, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected based on the existing conditions, opportunities and tastes of the owners.

The main task is to ensure high-quality fixation and not violate the insulation either during installation or during further work and operation. And choose the type of fastening from the possible options.

There are quite a few of them - there are special ones that are produced specifically for cables, there are borrowed from other areas, there are home-made ones.

Dowel clamp

Plastic dowel cable ties are designed for fixing a single cable. Fastening the cable dowel with a clamp is very simple. To do this, we just need a puncher and a concrete drill with a diameter of 6 mm.

Notches are made on the sides of the clamp at an angle, which prevents it from falling out of the wall. If the size of the drill and collar are chosen correctly, then the dowel will never fall out of the hole.

First, a hole is drilled in the concrete to the required depth (depending on the length of the dowel itself), then the clamp is opened and the cable is laid into it, after which the clamp is pushed into the hole.

The dowel clamp for fixing the cable can be in two versions: for flat and round cables.

The positive aspects are low cost, quick installation method, reliable fixation (you can be sure that the cable will not break under its own weight).

Using the dowel clamp, the cable can be fastened to concrete, brick, foam block, decorative stone. Suitable for both open and hidden fixing of wires.

This type of fastening is sometimes called a dowel-clip or a dowel-bracket.

Dowel clip

More inconspicuous during installation is the dowel-clip. This is a curved strip of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which, due to the force of elasticity, will hold the fasteners in the material of the wall or ceiling.

The shape of these products is available for round and flat cables of various sizes. But you can’t fix serious cables with them - they are too small. But they look very neat on conductors of small sections, including television, telephone and Internet.

They are easy to install: a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled, a conductor is inserted into the clip, the ends are tucked into the hole and inserted with force. A really good option - quickly mounted, you look neat. Mainly used for open wiring.

Another option for quick cable attachment is a dowel tie. It is made of non-combustible self-extinguishing plastics, allows you to quickly mount cable lines. Can be used for both surface and concealed installation.

The dowel-tie is a quick and convenient way to fix the cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces.

There is a coupler with a detachable and one-piece lock. The detachable lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The installation method is the same as for a conventional dowel. The difference is that the dowel here is also plastic.

brace

Cable clamps are available in plastic and metal.

Metal clips for cable fastening

As a rule, this method is used to fasten cables laid in a metal sleeve. Metal brackets have a hole for fasteners on one or both sides. The size of the brackets can be selected depending on the diameter of the metal hose. Excellent resistance to mechanical stress, suitable for "holding" heavy cables.

The advantage is "reusability". You can easily replace, shift, add-remove the cable, just unscrew the screw.

With this method of fastening, the cable is fixed to surfaces using pre-prepared fastening structures; it is traditionally used for fastening wiring.

Reliable fixation, thanks to which the cables can be pressed very tightly to the surface.
Fixing several parallel cables, this does not require drilling a bunch of holes, and a long fastener bracket can grab and fix 3-4 (or even more) cables at once.

Two-core aluminum noodles or PTPZh - a more rigid wire, usually used as staples. The bracket itself is attached to the wall using “quick installation” (6 x 40 or 6 x 60) or using building nails (if the walls are lined with gas silicate).

As a rule, it is applied to open installation of single cables. The plastic bracket is equipped with a nail for fixing, therefore it is suitable for mounting on soft surfaces such as wood, chipboard, plastic (you cannot drive such a nail into concrete).

During my practice, I often saw this method of fastening television and telephone cables. Providers are very fond of using plastic brackets for fastening an Internet cable.

In general, if the repair has already been completed and you need to carefully lay the cable over the baseboard, this is an ideal option - simple and cheap.

clip

Using clips, you can fix the cable on the wall, ceiling, on the floor. You just have to choose the right design, and there are a lot of them. Fastening the cable with clips is a very popular method - it can turn out very neatly and almost imperceptibly. This is if open wiring is supposed to be laid.

These fasteners are quite in demand for open cable laying. Clips after installation look pretty neat. They can be of various sizes, shapes and be metal or plastic,

Clips for mounting the cable are metal and plastic, and of different shapes. The simplest are in the form of a bow, which has holes for self-tapping screws or dowels on one side and the other. They are all good, but installation requires drilling two holes, and this takes a lot of time.

There is an option that allows you to withstand the fire gap when installing the power cable on combustible surfaces (pictured left). This fastener is fixed with one self-tapping screw to the surface. It is good in that, if necessary, threads can be added to the same fasteners. To do this, you do not have to remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding the upper part of the clip.

The third option is a kind of loop from a strip of metal. To install it, you first need to bring the cables inside, then align the holes and fix it on the surface.

All these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large number of threads on the ceiling, they are inconvenient - too many mounting holes are required. They are made of metal, part is then painted - so that the fasteners stand out less during external laying.

Plastic clips are mainly used for fixing cables in corrugated hoses. They are available in different sizes for different corrugation diameters. They can be installed both individually and assembled in lines - for more accurate installation of large bundles of wiring.

This type of clips is used mainly for hidden gaskets, but if the corrugation is laid outside, then it is more convenient to fix it with their help.

An excellent option for attaching a cable to dense surfaces: wood and its derivatives, plaster - a clip with a nail. On the side of the plastic bracket there is a hole into which the carnation is inserted. In shape, nail clips are round and rectangular - for conductors of various shapes.

Fastening the cable with such brackets is quick and not conspicuous. Most often, small wires are also attached - television, telephone, for the Internet.

Another option for quick installation. It consists of a dowel with a thread and a platform with a coupler attached to it. First, a dowel is installed, a platform with a screed is screwed onto it. Wires are attached to the finished track.

KSP - cable tie with mounting platform for dowel

Material - non-combustible plastic, color - gray, use temperature - from -45°C to +85°C. Can be mounted on concrete, brick and wood surfaces.

Even the smallest staples and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make fasteners almost invisible, at least in some cases. If you have a construction stapler, wires and telephone cables can be attached to wooden surfaces or plaster with special brackets.

They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special stapler staples designed for mounting cable with plastic stops (middle picture). They do not allow you to transfer the wire, which happens when working with conventional staples, if too much force is set on the trigger.

A good way is high speed - just one click on the stapler lever and the staple is already installed. In an hour you can fix a decent footage. Another positive point is that the fasteners are hardly noticeable; during dismantling, very small holes remain in the wood, which are also practically invisible.

With stucco and chipboard, OSB is somewhat more difficult - damage can be greater, however, they are still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest ones.

The disadvantage of fastening cables with a stapler is significant size restrictions. Such staples are not large. The maximum size for the width of the bracket is 12.5 mm, and even then not in all types.

This is more than enough for mounting telephone "noodles", an Internet cable or other similar conductors, but it is far from always possible to fix VVG or NYM in this way. In addition, these cables have more rigid insulation, which requires more frequent installation of staples.

This cable mount is made in the form of a square platform. May be square or more oblong. I prefer the second option as they are more durable. Inside there is a mounting hole for mounting. Sometimes in stores you can find the abbreviation as PMO (platform with a mounting hole).

Installation is also not difficult. To begin with, a hole is drilled in concrete with a diameter of 6 mm, an ordinary dowel is inserted into it, and the platform is attached to the base (wall or ceiling) with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take an ordinary nylon tie and fasten the cable to the site with it. This method allows you to attach several wires and cables to one site. This means that fewer holes need to be drilled, which accordingly speeds up the installation process.

A positive aspect is ease of use, quick installation, the ability to attach several cables to the site at the same time.

The fastening of the clip for the corrugation is carried out with a dowel and a self-tapping screw. Clips are selected depending on the diameter of the corrugation. The advantage of clips is that they can be assembled into blocks (there are special locks on the side for this) and several cable routes can be laid simultaneously.

Mounting tape

The metal mounting tape is designed to fasten the cable in compliance with the desired laying step. It is very convenient to use when fastening large groups of conductors. It has a width of 21 mm and a distance between flexible fixation points of 25 mm. There are two types - copper and steel galvanized. Each ribbon clip has a folded tab and tab. The petal protrudes above the surface of the tape, which makes it easier to bend it, for example, with a screwdriver. A slight fold at the end of the tongue ensures that the cable is securely locked into place.

Wires are placed in this technical box and closed with a one-sided or two-sided cover.

floor;
trunk;
plinth;
parapet.

When installing the channel cable, markings are first made on the wall, then fastened with self-tapping screws, dowel nails or “liquid nails”.

It is not always necessary to fix the wires permanently. In some cases, you just need to arrange the bundles so that they do not get confused. For example, usually a considerable number of wires come to the desktop.

There is no need to fix them rigidly - after a while, alterations may be required, and holes remain from the driven nails, which you can’t disguise on the table. For these purposes, there are various devices. They are more commonly referred to as wire or cable holders.

For example, the same staples, but of a different structure. On the right in the photo above, you see a cable clip with double-sided adhesive tape attached to the back.

For mounting on furniture or plastic panels - it is very convenient, the glue can then be washed off, and the surface remains intact. In the center - the second option with the same idea, and on the left is the so-called mounting platform for attaching cable ties.

First, these pads are attached to the surface - they also have Velcro on the back. Then the bundle of wires is attached to the holes with a conventional plastic tie. Not so convenient and neat (the tails of the ties will stick out), but it can also be used.

Homemade fixtures

It often happens that there are no suitable brackets, pads or clamps for attaching the cable. All these elements can be made by yourself.

Of course, in their design, they are likely to be inferior to factory elements, but in some cases this is not so important. And if hands grow from where it is needed, then fasteners can be quite a worthy replacement for branded fasteners.

We cut two-core pieces of wire, the length is selected depending on the wire being attached. In the middle of each we pass a self-tapping screw.

We wrap the same, but single-core pieces around the dowel or self-tapping screw head.
Cut tin strips. In the middle we break through a nail or self-tapping screw.

ease of manufacture and installation;
there is no need to search for fasteners and purchase them in stores;
the ability to use (install and replace) homemade products repeatedly;
You can attach one or more wires at the same time.

Many factory fixtures are relatively inexpensive, but when hundreds of them are required, the sum is considerable. And if the wiring is hidden, it is required, for example, to fix the cable in the strobe, why wall up extra money if you can get by with improvised means. This is what a homemade cable mount is made of.

Tin strips + nails or dowels - depending on the material of the wall. Tin is preferably galvanized, but it can be "extracted" from beer cans. It is cut into strips 7-10 mm thick, a hole is made in the center into which a nail is threaded.

First, fasteners are stuffed along the route with a step of 60-100 cm, then the cable or wire is clamped with tin strips. To secure the cable securely, it is advisable to clamp the ends into a lock.

From galvanized metal, cut into strips about 1 cm thick, you can make the simplest U-shaped bracket. Nail at the ends, use as regular staples - grabbing the conductor every 50-80 cm. Can be used to attach wires to walls and ceilings.

Also, a strip of tin can be used to fasten the cable into a loop. The strip covers the cable after which the strip is attached to the wall (see photo on the right).

This option can also be used to fix the conductors in the strobe. It will be distinguished from the usual external fastening only by the installation step of the clamps - they can be installed less often, since their task is to hold the cables until the mortar with which the gate is closed hardens.

In the same way, you can fix wires in a protective sheath - corrugation, pipe, etc. Only the strips will need to be longer and, possibly, wider - for a more secure fixation. For wood, a nail or self-tapping screw is suitable; for brick and concrete, a dowel is required.

With improvised means, you can also fix bundles of wires. A longer strip of tin can be used to fasten several conductors located one next to the other. It is more convenient to use perforated metal for this (for example, mounting hangers for suspended ceilings), but you can get by with ordinary tin strips.

These are the main types of cable fasteners that you can do yourself. Surely there are other options - the imagination of craftsmen is inexhaustible, but these are the most common.

Cable trays - for concealed laying of large bundles

When lighting the ceiling from spotlights, a large number of wires have to be laid, and they have to be fixed to the ceiling. If we are talking about apartments, then the floors are most often a concrete slab.

It is hard and long to drill a lot of holes in it, it is not much easier to fasten wires individually or in small groups. For such cases, hanging cable trays are used. They are usually made of galvanized wire or perforated metal.

They are of different sizes, there are several different types of fastening - on studs attached to the ceiling, on “T” or “L”-shaped suspensions.

The installation order is as follows: first, the structure is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then cables are thrown into it. If desired, they can be fixed with ties to the bars, but this is usually not necessary.

In addition, there are metal trays made of perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are necessary when laying cables inside combustible walls - in frame houses, for example.

The same trays can be used when laying cables in the underground space. But then you can use the perforated version. It also provides excellent protection against rodents and accidental damage.

Fixing the tray to the ceiling and ceiling structures

Recommendations for the method of attaching the tray to ceiling racks
The method is similar to fastening shelves and brackets to the wall, with the only exception that the brackets are not attached to the wall, but to special ceiling racks or to prefabricated structures from ceiling supports and a mounting profile.
The trays are fastened to the ceiling with brackets using a prefabricated unit - a ceiling bracket.
The ceiling bracket assembly is attached to the ceiling using bolt anchors or a drive-in anchor.
The anchor is driven in using a special tool for driving the anchor, and then bolts are wrapped into it. Anchor mounting makes it easy to move or dismantle mounting structures.
The ceiling bracket must be installed every 1-1.5 meters (i.e., as with any other installation method: at the joints and in the middle of the cable tray).

In a similar way, the installation of trays is carried out using free-standing (without support to the wall) floor racks.

Mounting on perforated tape is the cheapest solution, but due to insufficient rigidity it has limited application: low load, low suspension height, small width of cable trays, difficulties with expanding mounting structures.
Perforated tape is attached to the ceiling with bolts screwed into anchors.
The channels are attached to the perforated tape with screws, nuts and washers.
The distance is chosen in the same way as when fastening with brackets - at the joints of the trays and in the middle of the tray (1-1.5 m).
As a more convenient, practical and reliable alternative to this method, it is proposed to mount the trays to the ceiling using C-shaped hangers.