Means for daily maintenance of parquet boards. How to care for a parquet board? Care rules
Laying methods for Tarkett parquet boards
When laying modern piece materials, for example, TM TARKETT parquet boards, a lock connection is used, which simplifies and speeds up the process of flooring. Each board is made with filigree precision of geometric dimensions and connecting elements (locks), which allows you to obtain perfectly flat surfaces, without any additional processing (scraping, grinding). Laying of parquet boards is carried out in a floating way or with a landing on an adhesive composition. The technological differences between these methods are shown in the following comparative table.
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Floating floor |
Adhesive floor |
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Particularly high demands are made on the quality of the base preparation. |
Small inaccuracies in the base can be hidden with an adhesive. |
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The parquet board is laid dry, without fixing, which allows you to correct the mistake at any time. |
The parquet board is glued to the base, due to which the inaccuracies in the coating can be eliminated only before the glue has set. |
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The coating is ready for use immediately after installation. |
The coating gains strength gradually, as the glue dries, which takes 4-6 days on average. |
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High maintainability of the coating, including the base - you can change individual elements of the floor, get access to the communications hidden under it. |
Even with local damage to the glued coating, it will have to be changed completely. |
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Reuse of the dismantled coating is possible. |
Reuse of parquet boards is excluded. |
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For the installation of coatings with an area of over 240 m2, additional structural elements are required - transitional sills. |
The surface area for laying is unlimited. |
In addition, both methods of laying parquet boards have common characteristics:
1) Can be laid on a concrete base, cement screed, surface made of sheet materials - plywood, chipboard, fiberboard, particle board;
2) They require the same set of working, measuring and control tools - a hacksaw with a fine tooth, a square, a ruler, a protractor, a chisel or a special plane for edging, a pencil;
3) Have identical parameters of stability, resistance to external influences and service life of the coating.
Professionals, all other things being equal, give preference to the floating method of installation for its simplicity and speed and suggest observing the basic installation rules common to both methods:
1) The base for the parquet board is carefully leveled. For the entire time of installation, the room must maintain a microclimate (temperature and humidity) within the limits recommended by the manufacturer of the parquet board.
2) To protect the underside of the "floating" floor covering on a concrete base or cement screed, it is laid on a substrate covered with an insulating film.
3) The protective packaging of parquet boards is opened immediately before starting work. Different batches of the same type of material may differ in shades of color, therefore, the boards should be sorted to obtain imperceptible color transitions.
4) Boards from opened packs should be used on the same day.
5) The gap between the end of the parquet board and the wall is taken at the rate of 1.5 mm per meter of the total length of the covering. The minimum gap size is 8-10 mm. The same gaps are maintained when bypassing any rigidly fixed structures - pipes, stairs, columns, etc. This measure protects the finished coating from warping in the event of sudden temperature fluctuations or wetting.
6) The minimum amount of displacement of adjacent rows of boards relative to each other is 50 cm, which ensures the stability and strength of the finished coating.
7) The minimum width of the board of the extreme (last) row must be at least 50 mm. Otherwise, it is necessary to trim the boards of the first row. To avoid such a situation, preliminary measurements should be taken to determine the residual width of the boards of the last row.
8) Parquet board, and especially locking elements, requires careful handling during work, without which it is impossible to obtain a perfectly flat and durable finished surface.
Now in more detail about the floating and adhesive methods of laying parquet boards.
Floating laying of parquet boards
The finished floating floor is a type-setting board made of parquet boards, laid on a flat base without the use of adhesives. The same technology is applicable for the construction of floors made of other piece materials, the design of which provides for a lock connection - classic parquet, modular (panel) parquet, laminate. Tarkett is one of the most popular brands of parquet board, which is distinguished by high mechanical strength, workmanship and absolute environmental safety - it does not use products containing formaldehydes.The technique of laying a floating floor from a parquet board describes the sequence of stages, methods and techniques for bypassing fixed structures, ensuring technological gaps, etc. The quality of the preparation of the base is checked. The concrete or cement screed must be completely dry, an insulating film with gluing the joints with tape and a substrate for additional thermal insulation and compensation (amortization) of loads are laid on them. The horizontalness of the base surface is checked with a level (spirit level) or laser control devices. All detected base defects (grooves, chips, bumps) are eliminated.
The conformity of the height of the base level in the doorways is checked. To do this, a parquet board is applied at the threshold - there must be a gap of at least 3 mm between it and the lower edge of the door leaf. If necessary, the door leaf is trimmed before proceeding with the installation of the floor covering. Preparation for laying the first row of parquet boards begins with removing the side protruding groove along the entire length. Work should be started from the left corner along the longest length of the room, so the visual effect of increasing the space is ensured. The first row is laid with a cut groove to the wall. The boards are connected by their ends, for which they are applied at an angle and pressed down with a little effort. The lock automatically fixes the position and connection of adjacent coating parts.
The last board of each row needs to be trimmed. To do this, turn it over to the back side with a lock connection to the wall and mark the cutting line. If the remaining piece of board is longer than 50 cm, it is used to start the next row. Here and in the future, do not forget about fixing the gaps (at least 8-10 mm from the walls according to the principle mentioned earlier. For this, spacers are used, which can be made from scrap parquet boards.
After laying and fixing the first row of boards, the installation technique for subsequent rows changes. Each board is inserted into the lock of the previous row at an angle of 45 °, then there is an end connection (thorn-groove), and when the whole row is dialed, it is pressed against the base. The correctness and quality of the connection are visible to the naked eye, if the seams are invisible - everything is done as it should. When fixing the snap joints, do not use excessive force so as not to damage them.
Another technique for laying the subsequent rows of parquet boards is that the entire strip is completely typed end-to-end and only after that is inserted into the locks of the previous row. In this way, the installation process is accelerated and the color shades of the material are clearly visible, which simplifies the selection of color, pattern and surface texture. This technique should be used with helpers so as not to damage the key joints when installing and moving the assembled strip.
When laying the last row of parquet boards, it is common to see the material need to be ripped. Moreover, its width should be at least 50 mm, taking into account the provision of a compensation gap. We hope you haven't forgotten about the general installation rules in order to avoid an unpleasant surprise. Tools for sawing and edging must be carefully sharpened, otherwise the risk of chipping and delamination of the parquet board increases, after which it becomes completely unusable. If the last row of boards does not require cutting, only the protruding ridge is removed from them.
When bypassing fixed structures (stairs, sills, etc.), a similar situation arises of inconsistency between the width of the board and the place of laying. In this case, a protruding ridge is removed with a chisel, a part of the corresponding configuration is prepared, and using a traction block, it is connected to the cleaned edge using a special glue, for example TARKETT D3. For such an operation, it is not necessary to remove the previously laid boards.
It looks more difficult to bypass pipes for various purposes. In this case, it is necessary to drill holes in the board, the diameter of which is 16 mm larger than the pipe size. From the outer center of the circle, cut lines are marked in the form of a trapezoid, along which part of the board is carefully cut out for the pipe plant. After laying the boards, the sawn-off part is put in place using glue and a traction block, similarly to item 8. The resulting gap around the pipe is closed with decorative rings to match the baseboards. All walks that require cuts or removal of the ridge should be performed as carefully as possible, since the appearance and solidity of the coating depends on this. When using glue, remove excess glue immediately with a clean, dry cloth.
When laying parquet boards near the entrance doors, you can use the bypass technique proposed in paragraph 8. But since the floor at the entrance to the room is exposed to increased and regular load, it is recommended to wind the edge of the board under the door frame, for which a cut of the required depth is made in it. Thus, the floor covering in this place receives an additional margin of safety. Do not forget about the 3 mm clearance between the floor and the door leaf. If you lack experience, use the classic or staggered way of laying parquet boards. Diagonal laying requires constant practice and skills in cutting material at different angles, so it is better to invite a specialist for such work.
Adhesive installation of Tarkett parquet boards
There are no fundamental differences in the operational characteristics of a glued and floating floor made of parquet boards, but the technology of laying with the use of glue is more complicated and more demanding in terms of the professional training of the performers and the conditions for their implementation. The reasons for this are the impossibility of correcting mistakes made during the installation of the floor and the need to maintain the temperature and humidity within the permissible limits to ensure optimal drying conditions for the adhesives.Technique and methods of working with a parquet board using the adhesive method are similar to the “floating” one, adjusted for the characteristics of adhesives - the time of manipulation with the material is limited by the time of setting and drying of the adhesive. Further, the procedure and content of work when installing the floor with an adhesive method is proposed. Preparing and checking the base of the floor predetermines the overall success of the business. The use of glue allows you to "forgive" minor errors (irregularities) of the surface of the base, but makes high demands on cleanliness - no dust and oil stains. In the latter case, degreasing the surface is mandatory. For parquet boards of the first row, a protruding groove is cut along the entire length of the board. This side will face the wall. The operation can be performed with a chisel, a special plane and a fine-toothed hacksaw. The tool must be carefully sharpened so as not to damage the inner structure and outer surface of the parquet board.
To create the visual effect of a larger space, it is recommended to start laying the coating from the left corner along the length of the room.
Before laying the first row, parquet boards are laid out dry with a connection in a lock for accurate marking of the row length, taking into account the expansion gaps with the walls. The last board of the row is almost always sawed off. To measure it, the board is laid with the wrong side up and with a lock to the wall, after which a piece of the required length is sawn off. The remaining part is used to start the next row, provided that its length is more than 50 cm. The ends of the cuts are treated with compounds to keep the material from moisture.
After making sure that the dimensions of the boards of the row correspond to the length of the room, you can begin their installation. The installation site is covered with a uniform layer of glue for the width of the row. Parquet boards are laid with an end connection (tongue and groove), but they are not pressed down until the end of the row. Only after that, the entire row is pressed against the base smeared with glue. To ensure an expansion gap along the entire length of the row, spacer wedges are installed every 50 cm, for which the remains of the parquet board can be used. The same wedges are installed from the ends of the row.
For laying subsequent rows of boards, two methods of work are used - piece-by-piece assembly of row elements or its assembly aside and subsequent installation as a whole. In both cases, the boards are first inserted into the locks of the previous row at an angle, after which the fully assembled row is gently lowered and pressed to the floor. Do not forget that each row should have a shift relative to the adjacent one at least 50 cm. Reception of work with a full row assembly to the side speeds up the installation process, but requires additional working hands. Sawing and edging of parquet boards is accompanied by the formation of dust, therefore it is recommended to wipe the installation site before applying the next strip of glue. The correct connection of individual parquet boards to each other is confirmed by the absence of visible seams. Constantly monitor the shades of colors, which may differ in different batches of material, do not rush, but remember about the limiter in the form of the drying time of the glue.
You should not leave the opened packs of parquet boards the next day, as a result of which their characteristics may change and negatively affect the quality of the finished coating. Longitudinal sawing of the last row of parquet boards, techniques and techniques for bypassing fixed structures (stairs, pipes, sills, door frames) exactly repeat these procedures when laying floating floors. The pressing force of the boards in all cases and places of laying is regulated by means of a traction block.
Massive use of adhesives requires careful attention to the protruding excess of glue and immediately remove them with a clean soft cloth. Between the floor covering and the door leaves, a clearance of at least 3 mm is required. At the end of the laying of parquet boards, we install the spacer wedges of the last row, after which the coating is completed. It is possible to step on it for the first time after 1-2 days, and the full strength of the coating and locking joints occurs in 4-6 days. All this time, it is necessary to maintain the microclimate of the room within the same limits as when installing the floor.
A minimum of time is allotted to correct errors in the adhesive method of laying parquet boards. If the adhesive has passed the setting (polymerization) stage, then it is impossible to correct the error - only complete dismantling of the coating and big problems with removing glue residues and re-preparing the base. Adhesive laying technology is required in rooms with high humidity, such as kitchens. You should not overestimate your capabilities - such work requires professionals of the highest class, which means it is better to turn to specialists. We recommend that you heed this advice.
Parquet board is an amazing material that gives the interior an indescribable naturalness and attractiveness. Children take their first steps on this floor, their beloved pets bask in the sun, and the inhabitants of the house themselves spank the floor in the early morning. It turns out that the floor is under stress every day, so maintenance of the parquet board should be regular. And here special knowledge is not required, just a drop of care is needed.
Have you laid a beautiful parquet board on the floor? Get ready to take full care of your new coating. If you ignore this question, thinking, "but what will happen to her!", Then soon the parquet board will lose its attractive appearance, dry out, crack, scratch. Fearfully? That's just it, because a lot of money had to be paid for high-quality material, and if the installation was carried out by people from the outside, then the costs turned out to be significant.
Then you should quickly familiarize yourself with the basic principles of caring for a parquet board so that it does not hurt excruciatingly for a damaged floor covering:
- furniture leg pads;
- roller mats;
- water-repellent compounds.
In order for the care of the parquet board to be as correct as possible, you need to learn about the rules of care even before laying it:
- protect the floor from scratches in every possible way;
- if a dog lives in the house, after each visit to the street it is necessary to wash his paws. And also do not forget about the timely cutting of the claws of the animal in order to avoid damage on the surface of the parquet board;
- to put on the legs of furniture a kind of "felt boots", that is, felt nozzles. This precaution is most relevant for furniture that often moves around the room;
- today in the store you can find various care products, for example, polishes, mastics, varnishes, anti-slip agents. With their help, the parquet board becomes clean, shiny, a protective film forms on it, which serves as a barrier against scratches and other defects. Plus, manufacturers offer consumers a huge assortment, you can find products to remove traces of shoes, chemicals, food contamination;
- As for shoes, you should try to walk on the parquet board in soft slippers. It is strictly forbidden to wear outdoor shoes, especially heels. As a result of such unreasonable actions, chips, dents, cracks will appear on the parquet board;
- after applying varnish, you should wait 12 hours (not forgetting to close windows, doors) and only after that you can walk on the floor covering;
- after complete drying, there is no need to rush and immediately start pulling furniture, running, jumping and stamping your feet. We'll have to endure two weeks, observing a gentle mode of operation. And if you can't stand time directly, furniture should be moved extremely carefully, and during assembly, put dense material, for example, corrugated cardboard, fiberboard, so as not to accidentally wrinkle or scratch the fresh coating;
It is imperative to remove the backing after the assembly is complete, because if you leave it for a long time, a very undesirable darkening will occur in those places that were covered with cardboard.
Daily cleaning rules
This is a rather difficult event that requires special skills, because the wrong cleaning technology will entail damage, and it is not easy to eliminate it. So how do you clean your parquet flooring? First of all, cleaning should be done with a vacuum cleaner or a well wrung out cloth. The main thing to remember is an important detail - in no case do not flood the floor with water, as this will lead to swelling and warping.
Before starting cleaning, it is advisable to inspect the floor covering for cracks or deep scratches. If there are any, it will be necessary to eliminate such defects without fail, because decay processes will begin in the places of damage, that is, the floor will become unusable. The cracks should be cleaned with a thin wire, then sealed with a putty made of wood glue, birch or oak sawdust.
An unlacquered parquet board does not need to be washed often, it is better to wipe such a floor with a cloth soaked in cold water with the addition of glycerin - the proportions are as follows: one tablespoon per 200 grams of water. As for hot water, according to the recommendations of experts, the parquet board cannot be washed with it. By far the easiest, non-hazardous way to clean is with a vacuum cleaner. And, yes - if animals live in the house, cleaning will need to be done more often.
Making armor against water
Parquet board dislikes water catastrophically, we can say that she is afraid of it. And, indeed, this common truth must be known and never forgotten. A large amount of water - death for a parquet board!
But there is one secret weapon that saves the day a little. The fact is that there are special means that repel water, few people know about them, and this miracle remedy is called "polish". But this does not mean at all that after its application it will be possible to pour water in buckets onto the parquet floor. The essence of the process is that a thin protective film is formed on the floor, which saves the parquet board from a small amount of water and abrasion.
Also, polish are useful when the joints are poorly sealed between the dies. For example, if a child accidentally spills juice, there is no need to shout at him, accusing him of causing damage: the juice will simply remain on the surface, because polish will not let him "slip" there. For primary use, you need to buy several bottles of polish at once, because it disperses instantly. It must be diluted clearly, observing all the points specified in the instructions. Re-processing will be needed in a week or two, but the amount of polish will significantly decrease. It is also important not to walk on the floor after treatment for about half an hour.
Flooring rugs for furniture
Furniture on wheels has a negative effect on parquet floors, and on any other as well. Take, for example, a computer chair, which is a headache for flooring: wheels fidgeting in different directions harm the varnish and lead to cracking.
But, not everything is so sad, the hard work of scientists did not go unnoticed, you can find plastic rugs on store shelves. They save the floor from scratches and do not spoil the appearance of the room at all, because they are transparent, that is, invisible.
Special furniture and felt pads
And here progress is striding by leaps and bounds, however, it is quite difficult to find such furniture. What's so special about her? In fact, this is absolutely normal furniture on wheels (chairs, dressers), just the wheels are made of soft rubber that does not leave black marks and scratches. Buying such furniture will be an excellent option if you want the parquet board to serve for a long time.
Felt pads are an excellent invention worthy of high praise. Why? Sometimes it becomes necessary to move furniture, while, often, the furniture is dragged along, traces of such irresponsibility and negligence remain on the floor.
To avoid such negative actions, you just need to glue felt pads on the "sole" of the furniture. You can also buy felt heels and screw them into the legs of sofas, chairs, cabinets.
Methods for removing scratches
Undoubtedly, scratches are the most common injuries that need good masking. Option one - a special wax-based pencil is selected, matching the color scheme to the parquet board. Then melt it and apply the softened wax to the unsightly scratch. The next step is to level the surface, remove all excess wax with a rubber spatula. After that, the surface is polished with a soft cloth.
The second option is a young walnut (only suitable for shallow scratches). First you need to split it, remove the core, rub a scratch with it. The wood in the treated area will darken, the defect will become less noticeable.
The above methods are good for removing shallow scratches, but what about others? The use of a repair varnish will help here. Before starting the process, the surface is thoroughly cleaned, varnish is applied to it (according to the manufacturer's instructions). Also, deep scratches can be eliminated with a special putty, which must match the color of the floor. The putty is applied with a rubber spatula, the excess is removed. After drying, the surface is sanded with sandpaper, dust is removed, a layer of varnish and wax is applied.
Sanding parquet flooring
If, nevertheless, the scratches cannot be disguised, you will have to use sanding. But there is one nuance, the parquet board cannot be sanded endlessly, maximum - several times. The specific figure depends on the quality of the manufacturer and the thickness of the top layer. On average, this indicator varies within 5-7 times. Of course, before starting the process, you need to consult with a specialist or entrust this matter to a master.
It must also be remembered that room humidity needs to be controlled. The optimal parameters are 40-60%. If the humidity is low, the board will dry out, and this will lead to deterioration. It is best to put an aquarium in a room with a parquet floor and forget about humidity forever.
Fight floor stains
If stains appear on the floor that cannot be washed with a damp cloth, you need to use special products. However, there are also folk methods, the use of which has an excellent effect.
The main types of contamination and cleaning methods:
- shoe marks (black stripes) - rub the floor with a nylon cloth;
- paint, chewing gum - in this situation, only special products that can be bought at a household chemicals store will help. Instruction plays an important role, since self-activity will lead to serious consequences;
- colored pencil - moisten a piece of cloth in White Spirit and wipe the pencil mark;
- wax - first freeze the wax spot with ice, then take a plastic spatula and gently clean it off. Next, you need to put a piece of soft material on the remaining particles and iron it with an iron;
- blood - a fresh stain is removed with a rag soaked in cold water, and for a dried one it is necessary to add a small amount of ammonia to the water and moisten the cloth with the already obtained solution;
- nail polish - wipe with a solution of acetone and water.
An important point - it is highly undesirable to use pure acetone!
Types of protective coatings - varnish or oil?
Various varnishes and oil-wax mixtures are used as protective films.
Option # 1 - varnishes
Varnishes based on synthetic solvents have a pungent odor; people prone to allergies may experience burning sensation in the eyes, pain. And some modern wear-resistant varnishes require mandatory UV light during curing.
Before applying varnish, the surface is primed: pores are filled, the surface is protected from cracking, varnish consumption is reduced. It is better to apply a test coat on an inconspicuous area.
Option # 2 - oil-wax mixtures
This method is still relevant today. The oil-wax mixture penetrates deep into the wood, fills the pores, gives the parquet board a unique look, while effectively highlighting the uniqueness of the wood species. Modern mixtures do not require too frequent application - it is enough to apply them once a year (of course, with proper care).
How is this process carried out? First, you should apply a layer of oil, then another one, but this time with wax. The composition of oil-wax mixtures contains Chinese or linseed oil, a drying accelerator, color pigments, natural modifiers. The wax can be vegetable, animal. As you can see, the components of such compositions are natural, environmentally friendly materials. If there is a need to change from wax to varnish, first remove the wax by sanding, because otherwise the varnish will not adhere.
And lastly, the parquet board reacts painfully to various influences (physical, mechanical). But this does not mean at all that the floor needs to be covered with a carpet or path. So the sense of choosing a parquet board as a floor covering disappears altogether. It is better to protect her from unwanted contacts: do not walk in street shoes, do not allow dirt, sand to fall on the floor, do not defile on high heels and, undoubtedly, follow the rules of care. Then the parquet board will delight the eye with its beautiful appearance for a long time.
In this article, you will learn:
- What are the ways of laying parquet boards
- How to lay a parquet board yourself
Repair in Moscow must be taken seriously. It is necessary to clearly define the type of floor covering that would be to your liking.
Using parquet as a flooring is not only a good way to declare your wealth and status. It is also an opportunity to show others that you have excellent taste. In addition, parquet flooring is very reliable, environmentally friendly and has a long service life. Previously, to lay parquet, you had to work hard, while having certain skills. Now, thanks to the appearance of massive parquet boards, everything has become somewhat simpler. If you follow the recommendations of experts, then the process of its installation will not be difficult for you. Today we will talk about how to lay a parquet board.
At the moment, there are two types of parquet boards on sale: massive and multi-layer. The difference between them is in the manufacturing method.
- Massive a parquet board is made from different types of wood, both deciduous and coniferous. But to create it, a solid piece of wood is taken. Grooves and ridges are made at the ends of the board.
- When making multilayer Several types of wood are used for parquet boards, each with its own advantages. Thanks to this combination, the output is a parquet board with high performance characteristics. So, the top layer of parquet is made of hard and valuable species of wood, because it is he who will "be responsible" for the appearance of the floor. The middle layer of the plates is placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the top, using softwood. The purpose of this layer is to act as a connecting element both for this particular panel and for those adjacent to it. The material for the bottom layer is plywood, as well as pine or spruce lamellas up to 4 mm thick.
Parquet board for laying goes on sale only after applying a special coating and impregnation to it, which protects it from rotting and the formation of fungus. Keep in mind: whether the board is multilayer or massive, its service life depends not only on the production technology and storage rules, but also on the correct installation. You cannot influence the first and the second in any way, but the third point can be easily controlled. Or even do the laying of the parquet board yourself.
But for such a flooring to be durable and serve you for a long time, it is not enough to be able to work well with your hands. It is necessary to carry out some kind of preparatory work. It is also necessary to exactly comply with all the conditions of the technological process. What points should you pay attention to in the first place?
- At first, inspect the base on which the parquet board will be laid. All kinds of cracks, crevices and depressions are unacceptable. The base must necessarily be flat and strong, and also without a significant difference in height. 2 mm per linear meter is the maximum that can be tolerated. An inadequate base must be repaired or completely remodeled.
- Secondly, the parquet board should "adapt" to your apartment - more precisely, to its microclimate. Therefore, after purchasing the board, it is not recommended to immediately start laying it. Wait at least two days.
- Thirdly, an important condition for the successful installation of parquet boards is the level of humidity in the room. High humidity has a detrimental effect on this material, and therefore it is not worth laying parquet in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
- Fourth, again about humidity. During work, it is advisable to observe a certain level of it (from 35 to 65 percent). The temperature should be at least 18 degrees Celsius. Compliance with these conditions will allow the coating to become more durable and increase its service life.
- And the last by list, but not by value. When laying parquet boards, in no case should you forget about the substrate and waterproofing. Moreover, the features of the premises and the grounds do not play a role here, this must be done in any case.
In addition, one little tip: do not lay the parquet board perpendicular to the light rays. In this case, shadows will be clearly visible at the joints.
How to lay a parquet board in different ways
Well-known manufacturing companies (Barlinek, Tarkett, Kahrs and others) are constantly trying to improve their products. Moreover, they work not only on the appearance of products, but also on methods with which you can significantly facilitate the installation process. All new locking systems are produced. There are several main types of them:
- A connection that is considered classic when the tenons enter the grooves.
- The strips are connected at an angle of 10-30 degrees, after which, by pressing, the plates are fastened together.
- This is a volumetric fixation system. There are several types of them, the names and basic characteristics may not coincide, but the principle of connecting the elements is the same. A “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. Otherwise, it might just be an extra insert. Be that as it may, but thanks to such a fixation, the whole hitch becomes more rigid and durable, and the service life of the parquet increases. Also, this system prevents the divergence of the planks due to seasonal changes in the environment.
Depending on what kind of locking system is present on the products, the method of laying parquet boards is also chosen. When purchasing a flooring material, be sure to see if detailed installation instructions are available. If the product is of high quality, it must be attached to the package.
How to assemble laminated wood flooring?
There are several methods most popular:
- Laying parquet boards on joists.
- Fasteners with nails.
- Laying on a rough wood floor.
- Method using glue.
- Floating method, in which parquet boards are connected with a lock.
The castle system has recently been used most often. This method of laying parquet boards is convenient for both large and small spaces. On the other hand, glue is used less and less in such works. The fact is that laying parquet using this method is a very laborious work, taking a lot of time and requiring perseverance.
Solid parquet is fixed to the subfloor mainly with nails. But this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past. If you put parquet boards on logs, the insistence between the latter should not exceed 30-40 cm, and this is not very profitable financially. And the process itself is also quite laborious. But one of the advantages of the floating method of laying parquet boards is that all the work can be done by hand.
To decide which installation method is best for you, let's take a closer look at some of them.
Floating way
Many people have little idea how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor using this method. Let's sort it out in order. Initially, plywood sheets with a thickness of 20 mm are rigidly attached to the floor. A waterproofing is placed on top, which can be used as polyethylene of 200 microns. It is necessary that the entire surface is covered with waterproofing. For this, polyethylene is overlapped, with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints are glued together with tape. The film should also cover the walls - by about 10-15 cm. On top of the waterproofing, you should put dense polyethylene foam, expanded polystyrene or cork mats. In the first case, the substrate, like the waterproofing, is overlapped and glued with tape. In the second and third mats should be placed end-to-end, but out-of-the-box.
Plywood sheets should also be laid apart, leaving a distance of up to 5 mm between them. There should be 10-15 mm from the walls. Parquet floors in a room can be installed in two ways: parallel and diagonally. In the latter case, a little more material will be needed. Before you start laying parquet boards, make all the necessary calculations: how much material is required, which direction will be optimal. You need to plan everything so that the slabs in the last row do not seem too narrow compared to the rest. Connect parquet boards with tenons and grooves intended for them. Remember that between the wall and the parquet you need to leave a distance of 1.5-3 cm for the expansion of the material.
When laying the first row of planks, remove the spikes from them pointing towards the wall. Direct the spike of the next die at an acute angle into the groove of the previous one, lay the board on the base and use a hammer (through the block!) To achieve a tight connection with the neighbor. Place wedges between the first row and the wall.
When installing the second row of parquet boards, offset the end seams by one third of the length of the board. This is called staggered editing. Start by making the first plank in the second row 1/3 shorter. Collect the row completely, and then dock with the first. Also, insert the spikes of the boards into the grooves at an acute angle and tighten the joint by knocking it over the block with a hammer.
By the way, you can choose the run-off step at your discretion. But if you decide to make it just like that, then the first board in the third row must be shortened by 2/3 of the length. In the fourth row, all dies are of their original size. In the future, follow the same installation cycle for parquet boards.
Most likely, you will have to saw off the last row of dies to the desired width. When doing this, do not forget to leave a distance between the parquet and the wall. After that, remove the wedges and attach the skirting boards, under which the expansion gaps will not be visible.
One important caveat. For greater strength of the joints, the grooves between the boards can be glued. But, on the other hand, if you need to replace one of the boards, this will cause certain difficulties.
Glue
With this method of laying parquet boards, you first need to firmly screw moisture-resistant plywood to the screed. The adhesive is then applied with a notched trowel, preferably a two-component polyurethane adhesive. When working with glue, keep in mind that it is toxic, although after drying it is completely safe for humans. Small sheets of backing are placed at random on a concrete base. The distance between them and the walls should be no more than 5 mm. Further, all parquet boards are planted on the glue - using the same technology as with the floating installation method.
Before starting work, it is best to draw a diagram according to which in the future you will glue the parquet boards to the plywood. The difference from the previous laying method is that the boards are not assembled in rows, but attached one at a time. The glue must be applied both to the plywood and to the dies; the grooves on the ends of the boards must also be filled with this compound.
Then we act according to the principle described earlier: we attach the board with a lock to the previous one, align and seal with a hammer and a wooden block. The panels are additionally reinforced with pneumatic nails in the groove, but in such a way as not to interfere with the connection. Glue will appear on the surface, it should be removed immediately. Fill the distance between the walls and the parquet with a cork. Then we prime the entire surface of the floor, cover it with oil, wax or varnish. We fix the plinth along the walls.
This method of laying parquet boards is mainly used for rooms with a large area.
Using fasteners
How to properly lay a parquet board using this method? Just as with floating installation, waterproofing and insulation of the concrete screed is required. The boards are connected in the same way. The only difference is that you can put dies with a thickness of more than 20 mm. It is permissible to fix the parquet both to a wooden base lying on the logs, and to the logs themselves. If you decide to use the latter option, then keep in mind: the joists must be of sufficient width so that the joints of the parquet boards can easily fit in their middle. The optimal distance between the lags is from 30 to 40 cm.
They are attached to the concrete base through the insulation strictly horizontally, using self-tapping screws with dowels. The dies are connected to the logs with nails or self-tapping screws, the length of which exceeds the thickness of the boards by 2-2.5 times. So that nothing interferes with the laying, they must be installed in the grooves of the boards at an angle of 45 degrees.
How to lay a parquet board with your own hands
To work, you need to have the following in stock:
- Waterproofing film with a thickness of 200 microns.
- Combined or coniferous PE backing, 2-3 mm thick. Another will do, but the manufacturer should be the same as for the parquet.
- A block to compact boards, a mallet.
- Tool for fixing joints (for laying parquet boards with 5G locks).
- Metal bracket or wringer for the last row.
- Adhesive sealant, carpentry or PVA.
- Plastic wedges for gaps between parquet and walls.
- A hacksaw or jigsaw.
- Construction pencil, tape measure and square.
- Level and hygrometer.
- An adhesive or reinforcing primer.
- If necessary, a notched trowel, screwdriver, air gun or hammer.
Preparation of the base
First you need to get rid of all the old foundations. Then take measurements and determine if the floor needs to be leveled. If yes, then there are two options to prepare the surface for laying parquet boards:
- Use gypsum or cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors.
- Assemble a screed from plywood, chipboard or other.
Having prepared the base for laying, check it for moisture using a hygrometer, and with a long rail (more than 2 m) for evenness. Small flaws can be filled with quick dry mixes or cemented.
The next step is priming:
- If the parquet board will be laid with glue, use adhesives.
- If you plan to use the floating method, you need strengthening mixtures.
Is it a wooden base? Then you need to shave off all the irregularities from it (you can use a parquet grinder). Fill the cavities with an elastic filler. If the boards "walk", tighten the sub-floor to the base with screws or nails. If there are many defects, it will be easier to make a new screed from chipboard or plywood with a thickness of more than 16 mm. Treat the surface with an antifungal primer.
Preparation for work
The surface is prepared. The next stage of work will be laying waterproofing and backing material on it. Spread the film overlapping, the overlap should be 15-25 cm. Glue the joints with tape. Attach a backing (sheet or roll) on top. Place it back to back. If you plan to glue your parquet board, you should skip this step.
After purchasing the material, give it time to "get used" to the microclimate of the room, this usually takes from 24 to 36 hours. If a "warm floor" is installed in the apartment, then it would be good to turn on the heating system for two weeks, and turn it off 3-4 hours before the start of work. This maneuver creates an ideal climate for laying parquet boards and at the same time prevents thermal damage to the final finish.
One important point. If, upon opening the packages with parquet board, you find that some products differ slightly in color and texture, that's okay. Wood is a natural product, and therefore it happens sometimes. Wrap it up to your advantage by making an interesting pattern out of the boards.
Before starting work, be sure to draw up a diagram of the future installation, preferably on a scale. The last row should be at least 5 cm wide.
Installation of flooring
When installing the parquet board by the floating method, start work from the longest wall, clockwise. Leave room for expansion wedges around the perimeter of the room. According to experts, it is better to do this after laying the first three rows of parquet: move the boards with the help of a bracket and insert wedges into the resulting gaps.
Next, at the boards in the first row, cut off the spikes directed to the wall. Install the first tile in the corner and start assembling at the ends. If the outer die is larger than necessary, cut it off. Start laying the second row with the remainder of the first lamella. If you plan to lay a parquet board with a classic Click-lock, then after connecting the boards with the butt end, fasten them along the length, while always knocking them with a mallet or hammer through the block.
By the way, it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G lock systems. All thanks to the ability to join them both along and across.
There are volumetric locks for which you do not need to adjust the plastic insert. Just snap in the plates and you're done.
The last row of dies will take a little tinkering. It is unlikely that they will fit perfectly in size, and therefore they will need to be cut. After that, the tiles are fastened at the ends and attached to the last row. Be sure to squeeze the laid parquet boards with a metal clip or a squeeze.
It happens that a pipe or something else interferes with the even laying of parquet boards. In this case, mark the cutting line on the die, saw off a piece along it and drill a hole with a margin of 1–1.6 cm. Place the board in the right place, apply adhesive to the cut and glue it.
After the installation is complete, remove the wedges and turn on the underfloor heating system (the temperature must be raised gradually). Secure the skirting boards and fit the door sills. By the way, mandatory gaps in doorways are a requirement of manufacturers.
As a final touch, it would be a good idea to treat the floor with a parquet-specific product. The wax contained in these mixtures clogs the joints between the boards well.
How to lay a parquet board on a warm floor
The parquet floor itself has excellent thermal insulation properties, plus everything, the substrate does not allow the cold to pass through. But sometimes additional heating is still required. In such cases, the parquet boards are laid directly on the "warm floor".
True, not every system will work here. If there are no problems with water heating, then an electric floor is incompatible with a parquet board. Such a "warm floor" heats up too quickly, there is a sharp temperature drop, as a result of which the locks of the tiles begin to crack.
Laying of parquet tiles on the "warm floor" should be done only after it has been turned off and cooled down to room temperature. At the end of the work, the system can be turned on no earlier than a week later, and its temperature should be raised gradually, no more than 2-3 degrees per day. It is also very important that the floor is heated evenly, otherwise the parquet board can be "led".
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Basic methods of laying parquet boards
The parquet board is laid either by the floating floor method, or by the method of rigidly fastening the board to the base.
1. Floating floor method consists in connecting parquet boards to each other without fixing them to the base of the floor. The boards are assembled into a single layer, which lies freely on the substrate - a special compensating material located between the base and the parquet floor. This method is the most common, but like any other method it has its own strengths and weaknesses.
Main pluses:
high speed of the assembly process - laying a 30 m2 board takes no more than one day;
minimization of costs - the cost of the finished floor consists only of the cost of the board, substrate and parquet work;
lower requirements for the professionalism of the stacker - the board can be laid even on your own;
the possibility of reusing the board - the glueless connection allows you to partially or completely disassemble the parquet floor and put it again.
The main cons:
insufficient reliability - the mobility of the parquet layer over time can lead to deformation of the tool joint and violation of the integrity of the structure;
when restoring parquet, it will be almost impossible to polish its surface with high quality. The lack of rigid attachment to the base will not allow it to be done evenly over the entire area;
possible discomfort during operation - movements of the floating floor in a vertical plane under short-term loads lead to the sound of steps characteristic of the floating floor and, over time, to the appearance of a squeak.
2. Method of rigid attachment to the base means gluing each parquet board to a specially prepared subfloor. During the drying time of the adhesive composition, the boards are additionally fixed with parquet nails or staples to strengthen the strength of the entire structure. This method also has its advantages and disadvantages.
Main pluses:
high structural reliability - the glued structure of the "parquet pie" will add additional reliability and durability to the floor;
good repairability - the structural integrity of the parquet floor will make it possible to qualitatively repair its surface;
high level of comfort - the appearance of a squeak or a loud sound of footsteps when walking on the floor is almost completely excluded.
The main cons:
high requirements for the professionalism of the installer - the installation of a parquet board by non-professionals will significantly increase the risk of a failure;
a higher level of costs - you will need to purchase additional materials and pay for the services of professional parquet flooring;
time-consuming - layer-by-layer installation technology will require much more time than floating floor assembly;
the thickness of the "parquet pie" - an additional layer of plywood will increase the height of the parquet floor.
Preparatory stage of work
Before proceeding with the main stage of work, a number of important preparatory activities should be carried out.
1. Preparation of the base
Requirements for the substrate for floating boards. Old wooden, tile or stone floors, concrete or self-leveling mixtures, etc. can be used as a base for a parquet board. Textile coverings (carpet, linoleum, carpet) are not suitable as base material. Regardless of the type of substrate used, it must be absolutely flat, dry, strong and clean. The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of the upcoming installation, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The clearance between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled or sanded according to the specified requirements. The moisture content in a concrete or sand-cement base should not exceed 2%. Use underfloor heating with extreme caution. The heating temperature of the base surface should never exceed +27 ° C. Fluctuations in floor temperature during the day should remain within 5 ° C. It is not recommended to install parquet boards made of wood species that are especially sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature, such as beech, maple, olive or wenge, on heated floors.
Requirements for the base for laying the board by means of rigid fastening. As with a floating floor, the base for rigidly fixing the parquet board must be dry, level, clean and solid. In addition, it should be as suitable as possible for full surface adhesion of parquet and be able to reliably hold nails or screws inside itself. The ideal base will be moisture-resistant plywood, comparable in thickness to a parquet board. Plywood, in turn, must also be securely attached to a wood or concrete base using glue and self-tapping screws. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with a 5 mm technological gap between the sheets. Attention! The use of underfloor heating systems for such a base is unacceptable.
2. Laying scheme
Before starting work, you need to decide on the choice laying directions parquet boards in every room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of the daylight falling into the room. In elongated rooms, it is recommended to lay the parquet board in the longitudinal direction (material waste will be 3-5%). In rooms of complex geometric shapes, you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%). If the base is an old wooden floor, the parquet should be laid across the planks of that floor. Rooms with different laying directions must be separated by expansion joints, which are then closed with overhead thresholds.
3. Preparation of materials and tools for work
The minimum set of tools. To lay parquet boards, you will need the following tools: a saw with a thin blade, a hammer, a sharp knife, a scribe square, a drill, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, a wooden or plastic fender (at least 30 cm long with straight edges), wooden wedges, a spatula, etc. mounting foot.
Preparation of boards and related materials for work. Before starting directly to work, prepare the parquet board for laying. It is recommended to keep unopened packages with a parquet board in the room in which they are to be laid for at least 3-5 days to better adapt the board to the room's microclimate. Parquet packs should be opened only in the course of work. Before laying the boards, make sure they are free from defects. If a damaged board is found, it can be replaced with a flawless board by contacting the seller, or used at the beginning or at the end of a row during the installation process. The room in which the installation will be carried out must be well lit and have optimal temperature (18-24 ° C) and air humidity (40-60%). Do not forget to prepare everything for work: the backing and, if necessary, glue, plywood, hardware, rags to remove excess glue.
Important points to consider when floating parquet flooring
Before starting work, be sure to familiarize yourself with the installation manual and the operating rules of the parquet board drawn up by its manufacturer. Below are only general recommendations for laying parquet boards, and also lists the typical mistakes that inexperienced craftsmen make during installation work.
1. Brief step-by-step instructions for floating installation
First of all, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how many rows of boards you need. If the width of the last row is less than 40 mm, cut the boards of the first row with a saw, reducing their width.
Spread the underlay on the base of the floor, if necessary, fasten adjacent sheets of material with adhesive tape so that they do not bend during installation.
Start laying from left to right (fig. 1), from the solid wall of the room, placing the first plank with a longitudinal spike against the wall. The distance of 7-10 mm between the boards and the wall must be adjusted with wedges.
Set the next board with the short side to the previous board. Connect the boards to each other with a tenon into a groove (Fig. 2). Continue styling in this manner to the end of the first row.
Using a saw, cut the last plank of the row to size, taking into account the expansion joint, and lay it down.
Begin the next row (fig. 5) with a piece cut from the last plank you laid. Neighboring boards should overlap each other by at least 30-50 cm (Fig. 3). For a tight connection, it is necessary to lightly knock adjacent boards to each other with a hammer and a hammer (fig. 8). Attention! Do not use board trimmings as headers. Continue assembling the parquet board until you reach the last row.
The last row. Measure the width of the last row at several points (taking into account the expansion joint), mark the trim line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Lay the planks down and place them firmly in place, for example using the mounting foot. Place a protective pad between the wall and the mounting foot to avoid damaging the wall. Install the spacer wedges.
Even after studying the instructions for laying parquet boards, many make typical mistakes and miscalculations, namely:
laying a parquet board on a poorly prepared base;
carry out installation work in a room with inadequate temperature and humidity conditions;
do not suit the technological seam at the border of the board with other floor coverings and when approaching vertical obstacles (walls, columns, built-in furniture);
use in the installation of trimming boards smaller than permissible sizes;
leave the distance between the end joints of the boards in adjacent rows less than 30 cm;
loosely connect the docking unit (thorn-groove) of the board.
Important points to consider when laying parquet boards by rigid attachment to the base
1. Brief step-by-step installation instructions with gluing to the base
Once again, make sure of the readiness and quality of the base, materials and tools for laying the board in this way.
Carry out the assembly of the parquet boards in the same order as for the floating assembly of the boards, first applying a layer of glue to the base or back of the board.
Press each glued board firmly to the base using nails or a heavy weight. Do not remove the load until the glue is completely dry.
Avoid spilling adhesives on oiled or varnished surfaces. Remove excess glue protruding onto the surface immediately with a damp cloth, preventing them from drying out.
Do not subject the floor to heavy loads during the first few hours after installation until the adhesive is completely dry.
2. The main mistakes during installation work
The method of rigid attachment to the base requires much more experience in carrying out parquet work. But even professional parquet flooring specialists sometimes make mistakes:
do not clean the base from dust and dirt, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of gluing;
use low-quality, improperly prepared or unsuitable glue in terms of properties;
do not control the consumption of glue;
not tightly press the boards to the base, leaving "air pockets" between them;
do not remove the remnants of glue from the surface of the board in time.
Summary
At the beginning of our article, we asked ourselves the question: what you need to know and be able to do to get a beautiful, reliable and durable floor from a parquet board. It's time to take stock.
Laying a parquet board is a laborious and demanding process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Observance of the following rules will help to achieve success in this difficult business.
Choose a suitable technology for laying parquet boards.
Purchase the quality materials you need for styling.
Prepare the base correctly.
Determine the direction of laying.
Start laying the parquet board only after finishing all wet work.
Entrust the execution of all of the above points to professionals.
Floors are the most significant home furnishings. Parquet floors give the interior a natural naturalness and harmonious beauty of wood. Therefore, it is important that the color of the floors is in harmony with the prevailing color scheme in the room. One of the solutions is the selection of parquet shades that match the colors of the furniture, which looks very harmonious. Also, there is an option, contrasting options for the floor and furniture. In a word, the choice of coating color has ample opportunities for creative searches.
So, in this article, we will try to clarify what reasons should be followed when choosing natural flooring, such as parquet board.
The three-layer construction is a reliable and technological product, which is much less susceptible to wood "movement". This means that in case of temperature and humidity changes in the room, the construction of the parquet board allows it to withstand unfavorable conditions and strictly "keep" the geometry. In other words, your floor will not snap into place, or will not start to "ship". It's all about the three-layer construction of the parquet board.
bottom layer, as a rule, made of spruce plywood (in some cases, spruce dies are used).
Middle layer represents a set of spruce or pine dies, the direction of the wood fibers of which is perpendicular to the useful layer, i.e. front, which is made of various types of wood and has various versions. Thus, the reliability of the parquet board is due to the double weaving of wood fibers in the construction of the parquet board.
Upper layer- this is directly a layer of noble wood.
Covering parquet boards
The parquet board is coated with varnish or oil, at the factory, using special equipment. On the surface of the front layer of the board, putty is applied, a primer layer and then 6-7 layers of varnish (depending on the manufacturer) with UV hardening. Thus, the surface of the board is reliably protected from abrasion during operation, which gives advantages over parquet, which is covered at home, in which such a quality of coating cannot be achieved.
But it must be borne in mind that the use of chairs on wheels, point stress on the flooring of the parquet board, is fraught with the formation of scratches, cracks, depressions, etc. In order to avoid such problems and extend the life of the factory coating, we strongly recommend: use rugs for chairs on wheels, felt pads on furniture legs (especially chairs and tables, since these pieces of furniture move more often), limit point stress on the coating (do not walk on lacquered heels), avoid the ingress of sand and moisture (we recommend styling rugs in the hallways).
The same precautions apply to oiled positions of the parquet board. However, it must be borne in mind that the wood pores of the oiled surface are less protected from moisture, wear and contamination. Therefore, when wet cleaning oiled boards, we recommend using special polish liquids (oil-wax), which clean the surface and fill the cracks with a wax composition, as well as once a year to carry out general cleaning using special machines.
Laying methods
Having a three-layer construction, the parquet board can be installed in several ways. The most common, simple and cheapest is floating way of laying... This is a method in which a parquet board is placed on a dry, hard, level and clean substrate. Boards are assembled together, fastened with a lock joint, as well as laminate (Karelia, Timberwise).
The advantage of this method is:
- a simple and quick way of laying the floor,
- strength and durability during operation,
- immediate readiness for use after installation,
- the possibility of dismantling with subsequent use.
But some people don't like the "hollow" feeling in the floating installation method, when the floor seems to "walk". It is also possible to lay a parquet board by gluing it to the base ( glue method) - plywood (8-12 mm thick) is placed on a dry, hard, even and clean base, which is primed. The parquet board is adhered to the glue that is applied to the plywood. It takes several days for the glue to "set".
The advantage of this method is that the board is firmly glued to the base and gives the feeling of a solid floor structure.
Flaw such laying is that the parquet board cannot be reused during dismantling.
Sort selection
The next point in choosing a parquet board is sorting the wood of the front layer. This means the number of knots on the board, sapwood, the presence / absence of a variegated wood pattern. Manufacturers offer, as a rule, at least three options for sorting European wood species. This allows you to more accurately display the design solution in the interior drawing and embody your ideas. In this case, there are no specific recommendations, except that follow the advice of the designer and your own preferences. The selection or sorting of the parquet does not affect the performance properties!
Manufacturer's choice
The most difficult moment when buying is. It is necessary to find a product that would combine both good value and excellent quality. Since the parquet board market is wide enough and there are many brands, you can get confused. Of course, in this case it is necessary to determine what price range products you can afford. We offer products from various factories and price levels.
Polarwood boards of joint production of Russia and Finland are a high-quality budget option, with a large selection of options for oak parquet boards.
The manufacturer of parquet boards is one of the most technologically advanced manufactures in Europe. Affordable price, high quality and a wide selection of products distinguish this manufacturer from competitors.
Magnum - a large selection of parquet boards in various designs. Affordable price coupled with high quality. Available in a warehouse in Minsk.
Parquet board - elite quality in a piece design. This is a single-strip parquet board made of oak, ash in various versions: colors (natural, thermo, bleached), surfaces (smooth, structured, aged) and sorting (select, classic).
So, in this article, we tried to clarify the main issues in choosing a parquet board. Of course, these products are technologically advanced, i.e. practically not subject to the main problems of wooden floors (problems of changing the geometry), has a wide choice of execution of various types of wood (which expands the possibilities of interior solutions) and, most importantly, fully pays for itself (since it does not require special preparation during installation, it is already ready for installation, does not require varnishing ).
We wish you good luck with your choice!
