/ The last panel on the PVC ceiling - how to install it?

The last panel on the PVC ceiling - how to install it?

Each builder and installer has his own special tricks, which he is in no hurry to share with the rest. These are the so-called "tricks". One of these tricks was the installation of the latter. It turns out that doing this without difficulty is not always taught.

What is the difficulty

When the frame is mounted, the installation of almost all parts of the coating occurs completely without problems - the first part is attached, followed by the next, and so on, until it reaches the installation of the last plank of the coating.

If the installation is carried out on a frame with the subsequent installation of a decorative plinth, then there are no questions - part of the coating is simply cut to the desired size and inserted into the groove on the penultimate fragment. Along the edge, which is closer to the wall, it is simply screwed with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

After everything is fixed and checked, a decorative plinth is installed around the perimeter of such a ceiling, under which all the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. However, this installation method is not always chosen.

Very often, for the installation of such coatings, special plastic profiles are used, which have a special groove. Both the first part and the final part are inserted into it, and the outer part of such a profile acts as a finish for the junction of the panels and the wall.

This is where the main difficulty arises. If a special wall profile is used, then it has a groove into which the back of the part must be inserted. At the same time, it is necessary to insert the protruding front edge of the panel into the groove on the penultimate element. It will not work to bend it to such an extent that it will immediately insert both sides - it will simply break. And a natural question arises: how to install the last pvc panel in the ceiling and at the same time not damage it?

Tricks

Now comes the turn of tricks, which were mentioned at the very beginning. Not everyone is familiar with such techniques, especially if there is little or no experience in repair work.

There are several ways to solve such a problem. But, before installing, the extreme element of the ceiling covering must be cut to size. This is a very important point, without which all efforts can go down the drain.

Accuracy is very important here. Regardless of which option is chosen to solve the problem with the installation of the final fragment of the coating, it is necessary to carefully measure at several points.

A tape measure or ruler measures the distance from the wall to the edge of the penultimate element. This must be done on each side of the panel - so you can be sure that the part will fit perfectly on all sides. At the same time, one very important point must be taken into account - the panel should be one centimeter less than the distance from the wall to the edge of the penultimate element. This will allow it to move slightly during installation.

We also measure the length - the walls can present an unpleasant surprise at the last stage. If the distance between them is at least five millimeters less than the length of the element, it will not stand up straight and will have to be trimmed. And this is a waste of time and extra work. The part to be installed itself should be only a couple of millimeters longer than the distance from the edge of one profile to the edge of the opposite. This will allow you to move it freely before inserting the back side.

Having cut out the part of the desired shape and size, it remains only to install it in its place. This is done in the following sequence:

• First, you need to insert the sides of the panel, for which it bends a little. Do not be too zealous with this - you can break the bar. First, one side is inserted until it stops, and then, when the second side is inserted into the profile on the opposite wall, it is pulled out for a more secure fixation.

• Now, the bar must be inserted with the back side into the wall corner until it stops. The leading edge should ideally fit into the remaining free space, leaving no gaps or gaps.
• It remains to move the last fragment of the ceiling forward so that the protruding front edge is connected to the previous fragment. The easiest way to do this is with masking tape. Having pasted a couple of strips on the plane of the panel, you can pull them and it will firmly fall into place.

All these operations are carried out very carefully so as not to damage either the bar itself, or the corners into which its edges are inserted.

There are other options for setting the edge fragment. One of them has already been considered - in the case when a decorative plinth is used, a piece of the coating is simply cut to the desired size and attached to self-tapping screws, which are subsequently hidden by the installed baguette.

If the method described above does not work for some reason, you can do it differently. When fixing the corner around the perimeter, the farthest one is not mounted. The one in which the back side of the last element will be fixed. The installation of the rest of the canvas occurs in the usual way, without any changes.

The difference will be that the last fragment is mounted with a segment of this very corner put on it. With the bar that is mounted last, the same manipulations are performed as in the previous method - we measure, cut to size. There is only a small clarification - its size should allow it to be inserted into the side profiles and at the same time, it should be included in the remaining free space.

Next, a corner is put on the back of the cut piece of the coating. It will be installed simultaneously with a piece of canvas. The edges are also turned into profiles on the walls. The bar is inserted into the groove on the previous one and the corner is moved to the wall. In this case, it is attached either to glue or silicone, which must first be lubricated on its back side. The result is obtained - all parts of the decorative canvas are in place and there are no cracks or gaps.

To better understand the whole process, you can watch a video that shows how the last PVC panel is installed on the ceiling.

Until recently, the main materials used in the decoration of ceiling surfaces were plain or wallpaper. Modern technologies have gone further and significantly expanded this list. Now on the market you can find quite unusual solutions. For example, plastic panels.

Their range is constantly expanding. New textures, colors, etc. appear. Despite such a variety, among all the plastic panels on the ceiling, preference is usually given to their light shades: white, ivory, baked milk. However, along with the choice of the main material, which is relevant for those who decide to carry out repairs on their own, the question remains how to fix the plastic panels to the ceiling.

Such panels differ among the materials used in the decoration of ceiling surfaces in the following advantages:

• strength and durability;
• resistance to moisture, UV radiation, mold and bacteria;
• resistance of the outer coating;
• lack of smell;
• resistance to chemicals.

But this material is not without drawbacks.

• When burned, plastic releases harmful fumes.
• Subject to mechanical damage.
• Burns out in the sun if constantly exposed to bright light.
• Such a ceiling reduces the height of the room due to the frame.

What will be needed at work

The following tools may be useful for mounting and fixing panels to the ceiling:

• electric drill;
• hacksaws for wood and metal;
• screwdriver (screwdriver);
• hydraulic level or building level;
• construction stapler;
• marker or pencil;
• self-tapping screws, dowels, screws.

How to calculate and select material

Before attaching PVC panels to the ceiling, you need to make a preliminary calculation of the material, as well as decide on the color and texture.

The panels are produced with an average thickness of 0.5 to 1 cm and a width of 25 to 50 cm. The standard minimum length is 2.7 m, the maximum is 3 m. The mounting elements used in the work are usually produced in a standard length of 3 m.

To determine the amount of material needed, you need to divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling surface by the area of ​​​​the finished panel. Most often, information about this is indicated on labels and packaging for products.

It is necessary to add 12-16% to the resulting figure in case of possible marriage, errors, etc. The result is then rounded up.

Everything you need for work should be bought in one store so as not to make a mistake with the texture and color if you have to buy more plastic.

In order to take less time to install ceiling panels to the ceiling, you must first stock up on a profile and fasteners.

Determining the required number of profiles for mounting the frame is carried out as follows:

1. the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling is measured and its reduced version is drawn on a piece of paper;
2. lines are drawn in the figure showing the distance between adjacent. In reality, this value is 60 cm. The number of lines will show the number of profile strips that you need to buy. Given that the average length of the bar is 3 m, the total footage of the material is calculated;
3. it is additionally worth buying 1-2 straps in case of marriage, mistakes, etc.

Fastening materials are calculated based on the number of profiles.

To determine the required amount of plinth per ceiling, the total perimeter must be divided into 3 parts.

A large assortment of plastic panels misleads a potential buyer. Differences in shades make you think about which type to give preference to. Experts recommend using light shades of plastic, visually increasing the area.

Before buying, it is important to check the material for quality. To do this, the edge of the panel is compressed with your fingers. If the panel is not deformed or the compression is slightly noticeable, the material can be bought. Otherwise, over time, the ceiling panels may crack.

How to prepare for the installation of PVC panels on the ceiling

Preparation will not require laborious work, since plastic panels hide visible surfaces.

It is only necessary to clean the ceiling of whitewash if it has begun to crumble, and cover it with a protective layer of primer or antibacterial agent. This will help prevent the formation of mold and fungus spores in the future.

Frame installation

Before attaching plastic panels to the ceiling, you need to create a reliable frame. This is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming stage of work. It affects how the ceiling will turn out.

The procedure will be as follows:

• profiles are installed in a perpendicular direction to the position of the plastic panels attached to the frame;
• when communications and electrical wiring are turned on under the plastic, the frame must be lowered 10 cm from the draft ceiling surface;
• the lowest angle in the room is determined. To do this, measure the height from floor to ceiling with a tape measure. The minimum value will be the height of the ceiling to be mounted;
• dots are placed in the corners, which are connected by horizontal lines. Evenness is determined by the construction hydraulic level;
• metal profiles are attached to the wall on suspensions in the shape of the letter "P", placed 60-80 cm apart using anchors on the wall. Suspensions are attached to the profile itself on screws or self-tapping screws;
• for such a coating, there is no need to include jumpers between the carrier profile in the lattice. They are installed only where it is planned to include lighting elements;
• when the frame is ready, it is necessary to carefully lay the wires for lighting.

Another option for installing the frame is the situation when a plastic crate is mounted. In this case, the profile must be fixed in such a way that its lower part is aligned with the horizontal line along the perimeter of the room. The plastic profile is mounted in this case after 30 cm.

One of the most economical types of frame is wooden. Planks are fixed to the ceiling with plastic dowels or screws every 60 cm.

The general technology of this stage is based on the tenon-groove principle.

First, around the entire perimeter, you need to attach a profile where plastic panels will be mounted. They can be a special plastic ceiling plinth with a mounting groove. Mounted on a metal frame with self-tapping screws. If the frame is made of a starting profile or wooden slats, the plinth can be attached with brackets or the same self-tapping screws. For a flat ceiling without a frame, liquid nails should be used.

After installing the start profile, you can mount the plastic panels.

How to properly fix PVC panels? First you need to inspect the panel, and find the locks on both sides. Attach the panel to and see how it will attach. If the lock fits snugly against the frame, then the panel is in the correct position. If there is a gap, you need to turn the tile to the other side. That lock on the first panel, which will enter the gap of the starting profile, needs to be cut a little. You can do this with a utility knife.

Using small self-tapping screws, fix the panel in the recess of the starting profile. The next plastic panel will be inserted into the lock of the previous one, and so on. around the perimeter.

The last plastic panel must first be measured and cut to the required size. In place of the cut, you need to put on a plastic profile in the form of the letter "P". With the help of liquid nails, it will be glued to the frame.

In order to be invisible, they use a ceiling plinth that hides all the flaws. Its installation will be the final result of the installation of such a ceiling.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling video instruction

Plastic finishing panels are a material that differs from analogues by a combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range of plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, plaid, with various patterns and images.

However, if we are talking about panels for the ceiling, then the most popular are the details of light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it really is. In addition, shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on the power of lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some argue that this material is a danger to human health and violates the correct living conditions in the house. Others consider plastic completely harmless and quite suitable for residential use. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth examining all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, then all opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and in the food industry. Various items made of plastic are found in large quantities in bathrooms, kitchens and living areas, where plastic is present in almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a false ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.

Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps and pores. This quality suggests that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them with an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, upon a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a lack of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, emitting 50% less smoke when burned.

The last imaginary drawback of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling design is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grate is built into the opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the ability to "breathe". In addition, when mounting a suspended plastic ceiling in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material used to make the ceiling and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main types of PVC panels:

• Ceiling, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
• Wall, stronger and more rigid products that are more expensive and not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply impractical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

• Rack products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
• Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other by means of a lateral tongue and groove joint);
• Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material that is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before you assemble the ceiling from plastic panels, you need to choose the best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet clean and are of good quality. Good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are only talking about visual characteristics, and a full-fledged service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two concepts:

• Suspended ceiling, which is equipped as a separate structure;
• Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures - this is a fairly popular way to finish the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is the absence of the need to prepare a strobe for laying communications - and this is essential, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.

On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes away part of the free volume of the room. In the most successful scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only subject to the installation of conventional lighting fixtures. To install recessed lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before you make a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

• The main structural element will be guides, which are most often used as standard profiles for mounting drywall sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular plastic panel ceiling profile, and for rooms with high humidity, it is best to take galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame of wooden bars with a section of 30x30 mm or more.
• Profile elements are fixed along the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Further, with the help of suspensions or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All guides for the ceiling of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth pulling the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focus on them.
• If the suspended structure is located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the strips can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made of pieces of wood or plywood. It is necessary to calculate the structure so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up the starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can start installing the starting profiles:

1. To work, you need to take a ceiling molding. It is attached to the frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even a minimal deviation will lead to noticeable gaps. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
2. To fix the bar, you can use adhesive or self-tapping screws. Moldings are recommended to be glued with liquid nails - in this case, a perfect joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward a little.
3. The edge directed towards the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along the entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the wall surface. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - until the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue has completely hardened, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue with the installation. During the installation process, liquid nails can squeeze out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling details. You need to wait until the glue dries completely and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fixing plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

1. When mounting a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. You do not need to cut the parts in accordance with the length or width of the room - in this case they will not go into the profile. With ideal room geometry, you can cut a lot of parts, but this is rarely the case, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
2. The first panel comes with three edges into the molding. You need to install the panel with the spike forward so that it connects to the bar. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf can bend and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can slightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, filling the edge of the panel with it. An important point - the panel should immediately go into the profile along the entire length. The mounted elements are immediately attached to the rails using self-tapping screws or a construction stapler if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
3. Further installation of a plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding by 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted bar is leveled and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the bar on the profile, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape.
5. When mounting suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that it is necessary to cut holes for lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance exactly where they will be installed. For cutting, you can use any suitable tool - for example, a drill with an annular nozzle. You need to insert fixtures, connect and check them immediately - after the ceiling is fully assembled, this work simply will not work.

Before you make a false ceiling made of plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, at this stage, the installation of the structure does not end.

Mounting the last panel

At the stage of installing the last plastic part, a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and features of the fastening of this element. However, everything is simple with dimensions - the bar is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.

Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starter profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it cannot be installed. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, it is necessary to observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology of gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that the last panel turns out to be non-removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the interior of the ceiling.

When all the panels are mounted, it remains to install only the last plinth. A mounting plate is cut off from it and corners are cut (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, it can be smeared with glue on both sides, and installed in its place.

Sealing with acrylic

With how to make a plastic ceiling, everything is clear - but there is one more step that needs to be completed in the vast majority of cases. We are talking about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. When using high-quality panels with the correct geometry, you will not need to adjust the design.

The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill it with a mounting gun. Using a gun, you need to carefully close up all the gaps, joints between the panels, baseboard and ceiling, as well as corner sections. As a rule, there are a lot of noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
2. You need to fill the gaps in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high curing speed, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardening excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
3. Acrylic, when solidified, may decrease in volume, being drawn into the cavity of the seam. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to fully seal the entire ceiling. The stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Fixing plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to the dimensions are mounted in it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fasteners in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

• For wooden structures, small nails or staples of a construction stapler are quite suitable;
• In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not go into such an overlap, and drilling individual holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
• Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the design will eventually turn out to be non-separable.

Before you make a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in the plastic ceiling

The selection of the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual matter, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the features of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps are suitable, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products.

Luminaires powered by a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of more than 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulated housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, because of which the plastic can darken and deform over time. So that the increase in temperature does not affect the plastic, and thermal insulation is used.

You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it must be protected from direct water ingress. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. For the installation of moisture-resistant lamps, it will be necessary to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps, the situation is somewhat simpler, since they work from 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such fixtures, power is supplied through an automatic machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the fixtures.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - an increase in the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in the intensity of illumination. When installing in the bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is a rather convenient, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.

You can use different materials to finish the ceiling, but PVC panels are the most practical, affordable and easy to install.

Any home craftsman can make a ceiling from PVC panels with his own hands, for this you need to purchase or rent the necessary tools, study the installation sequence and the recommendations of specialists.

In order to independently, you first need to correctly calculate their number and the required length, figure out how the installation of the supporting structure and the panels themselves is carried out, after which you can begin to work.

Before starting to calculate the amount of materials needed, you need to decide which PVC panels you will use, since they have different sizes. pay attention to the fact that the panels are ceiling, and not. Since they are not subjected to serious loads on the ceiling, their strength will be less, respectively, and the cost will be lower.

The standard dimensions of the ceiling panels will be as follows:

• thickness within 3-5 mm;
• width from 125 to 350 mm;
• length is usually from 2.7 m to 6 and even 10 m.

Ceiling in the bathroom

Of great importance is such a parameter as the width of the material. If you veneer, there will be fewer seams, so the surface will look more solid. Narrow panels have their advantages: they are much easier to work with, but they produce a large number of seams. Experts recommend using medium-width material for finishing the ceiling, so it should be 250 mm.

When you decide on the length and width of the panels, be sure to pay attention to the quality of their workmanship. When choosing a material, pay attention to the following characteristics:

• it is necessary to observe the geometry of the products, and their surface must be even and smooth;
• if there is a drawing, then it should be applied clearly and evenly;
• stiffeners should not shine through on the front side;
• compare several types of panels, the more stiffeners they have, the stronger the structure will be;
• pay attention to such characteristics as the thickness of the stiffeners and outer walls;
• try to connect two parts, docking should be easy, and the gap should be minimal, almost imperceptible;
• check the material for bending, it should not crack and change its shape.

Calculation of the number of panels for the ceiling

To calculate the number of PVC panels, you first need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the ceiling will be finished. To determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, multiply its length by its width. On the packaging of PVC panels, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element must be indicated. It remains for you to divide the resulting ceiling area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element, and you get the number of panels needed.

When determining the number of panels, a fractional number is usually obtained, it is rounded up, 15-20% is added, which will be spent on cuts, and the number of panels that you need to purchase is obtained. It is necessary to focus on the length and width of the room, decide how the panels will be installed, along or across, and in accordance with this, choose the required length of the elements.

Ceiling with LED lights

In addition to the required number of PVC panels, the number of metal profiles used for the crate is calculated. To do this, make a diagram of the room on paper and draw parallel lines along the wall at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other. Carry out the calculation and get the required length of the profiles.

The standard length of a galvanized profile is 3 m, so the resulting length is divided by 3 and the number of profiles is obtained. If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 m 2, then transverse strips are also installed, the number of which is calculated separately, in accordance with the scheme for their installation.

Ceiling finish option

A more rigid profile is installed on the walls along the perimeter; to determine its quantity, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the ceiling. The calculation is carried out for dowels for fastening profiles to the ceiling and self-tapping screws, with which PVC panels are attached to the crate. For every 50 cm of a profile or panel, one dowel or self-tapping screw is required.

To determine the length of the ceiling plinth, you need to divide the resulting room perimeter by 3 (the length of the plinth), round up to a larger integer, and you will get the required number of elements.

Instead of a galvanized profile and self-tapping screws, when creating a crate in a room with normal humidity, you can use wooden elements and staples.

PVC ceiling installation

Regardless of the material used to create the frame, the markup is done in the same way. Usually the distance between the profiles is 60 cm, marks are made on the ceiling across the direction of laying the panels on opposite sides, and markings are applied using a chopping cord.

Ceiling installation

If the frame is attached not to the surface of the ceiling, but on suspensions, then the line marked on the walls around the perimeter of the room is lowered to the required distance. In addition, on broken lines for profiles, every 50-70 cm marks are made for attaching suspensions.

Support structure device

If the PVC ceiling is lowered, then at first the suspensions are fixed at the marked points, this is done with the help of dowels. At the next stage, a metal profile is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room. First, it is installed on the marked line, then holes are made in the wall at a distance of 30-40 cm, they are made through the profile and immediately fixed with dowels.

Now the ends of the profile cut along the length are inserted into the wall profile, and it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the suspensions; for the reliability of the structure, this must be done on both sides to each suspension. After that, the ends of each element are fixed with screws.

ceiling lining

After mounting the frame, electrical wiring is carried out; for this, the corrugated pipes are attached to the suspensions, and the cable is already laid in them.

If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 square meters, then transverse jumpers must be installed between the longitudinal supporting profiles, which are needed to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Ceiling cladding with PVC panels

Regardless of what material was used to create the frame, the installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way. Keep in mind that wood is easier to work with, but metal elements are lighter and more durable.

Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

• along the perimeter of the room, a starting bar is mounted on the installed profile;
• if it is planned to install a ceiling plinth, then a special rail is installed for it;
• after that, the ceiling plinth is mounted;
• the first panel is inserted into the gap on the plinth or starting bar, which has a U-shape;
• the first element is aligned and fixed with screws or brackets to each carrier profile;
• the next panel with its spike should fit snugly into the groove of the previous one, the parts should be tightly connected so that the gap between them is minimal;
• after that, the panel is fixed, and so all subsequent elements are mounted;
• in those places where the fixtures will be installed, holes are pre-made in the panels, and during installation, the cable is output into them;
• the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one. If its width is large, then you have to cut it to the desired parameters;
• at the wall, the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws through and through, since then they will be hidden under the plinth;
• it remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and;
• installation and connection of spotlights is carried out in ready-made places.

Expert advice when finishing the ceiling with PVC panels:

• in order to prevent the reproduction of fungus and mold, the surface of the panels, as well as all wooden elements, must be treated with special means before installation;
• even if the ceiling is even, plastic panels cannot be glued to concrete, as there will be no ventilation;
• buy only high-quality material, an attempt to save money by purchasing cheap materials leads to the fact that they quickly lose their color and shape, they can release harmful substances;
• before installing the panels, be sure to make electrical wiring and check its performance;
• in rooms with high humidity, you can not make a frame of wooden elements.

Summarizing

If you decide to finish the ceiling yourself, then the best option, which has a beautiful appearance and low cost, is to use PVC panels. Installation of this material is easy, so you can cope with the work without outside help, it is enough to study the installation technology and follow all the recommendations of specialists.

Related video

Plastic panels are increasingly used today as a finishing material for walls and ceilings. Their popularity constantly tends to grow, which is due to good performance, aesthetic appearance and easy installation work. Another significant advantage of panels of this type can be called an affordable level of price indicators.

How to choose plastic panels

Plastic panels can be used without any special fears in rooms with high humidity -.

Such material is resistant to aggressive environments and temperature fluctuations - suitable for. Moreover, their use prevents the formation of mold and mildew, which is important for. When choosing PVC panels, length and width indicators should be taken into account. The surface of the material can be lacquered, glossy or matte.

Another significant advantage of PVC panels is the absence of the need for careful leveling of the surface, as well as the ability to hide individual communication elements under the frame.

Photo: finishing the bathroom with plastic panels

When choosing this variation of the finishing material, you should focus on the fact that plastic panels for walls and ceilings have certain differences. The former have higher weights. In addition, they have a more rigid structure.

Option to finish the bathroom with plastic panels

Plastic panels designed for finishing the ceiling are lighter. This is due to the need for installation work at height. The minimum weight indicators greatly facilitate this procedure.

Finishing the walls and ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels

Along with this, plastic ceiling panels are more fragile. When performing installation work, you should be very careful, as you can easily damage the surface of the finishing material.

Wall decoration with decorative plastic panels

With a standard thickness of 5-10 mm, the width of the panels can vary from 25 to 50 cm. The length varies from 2.7 to 3 m. When choosing a finishing material, you should pay attention to the quality of the color of the panel, the uniformity of the drawing and the correctness of the shapes. The quality of the stiffeners should also be taken into account. They should not stick out from the outside. The surface of the material should not contain characteristic chips and cracks.

The level of resistance of the material to deformation will depend on the quality of the density and flexibility of the PVC panel. If such a panel is tightly compressed, then no traces of mechanical damage should remain on it.

Necessary tools and materials

When performing work on installing plastic panels on the wall and ceiling, at the initial stage, you should select the necessary tools and materials. To resolve an issue related to installation, you may need:

• PVC panels;
• drill;
• dowel;
• cord and pencil;
• perforator;
• ladder.

This should also add moldings and corners. By using the latter, you can achieve the most even markup. Otherwise, when installing plastic panels on walls or ceilings, certain difficulties may arise.

Photo: plastic panels for bathroom tiles

Plastic panels are selected depending on the features of the layout of the room. In a small room, it is advisable to use narrow panels. Under the condition of finishing a more spacious room, it is best to resort to the use of wider products.

Photo: ceiling decoration with built-in lamps with PVC panels

Self-tapping screws can be used instead of dowels. They are necessary if the frame will have a metal version. Dowels are relevant only if a wooden frame is used. It should also be noted here that the wooden base cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity. This is due to the fact that such material is susceptible to decay, as well as the negative effects of fungi and mold. For this reason, in the kitchen and bathroom, the use of a wooden frame is not a viable solution.

Construction of battens for walls and ceilings

The frame device is a primary issue that should be resolved when installing plastic panels on a wall or ceiling. It was noted above that a wooden or metal variation of the frame can be used as the basis. The optimal distance between the individual elements of such a base is equivalent to 50 cm. In this way, it is possible to compensate for the unevenness of the surface of the ceiling or walls. The recommended sequence of actions will look like this:

1. Carrying out markup.
2. Installation of profiles around the entire perimeter of the surface.
3. Installation of transverse profiles.
4. Installation of the basis for fastening PVC panels.
5. Panel installation.

During the marking, you should first determine the smallest height of the ceiling. From this point, two lines must be drawn on the walls. To do this, you can resort to using a cord painted with chalk. The correctness of the markup is checked using the building level.

After marking, profiles should be installed around the entire perimeter of the surface. The fixation of these elements should be carried out without the formation of voids and gaps. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to achieve maximum reliability of the entire structure.

Profile frame for walls

After installing the transverse profiles, you should solve the problem, which consists in mounting the base for fastening the panels. Self-tapping screws can be used to fasten plastic profiles.

Profile frame on the ceiling

When installing a metal variation of the frame, you should be as careful as possible. The total weight of the structure will be large enough, so it is necessary to ensure high reliability of its fastening. Hangers can be fastened to a concrete floor by using special dowels with a cap on the sleeve. Ordinary dowels will fail, as concrete is characterized by the presence of internal voids.

Attaching the first panel to the frame

Holes in the metal profile can be drilled simultaneously with the preparation of holes in the wall. If the frame is mounted on ceramic tiles, it is advisable to resort to using a perforator only if the adhesive mixture is completely dry. In a different scenario, cracks may appear on the surface of the tile.

Features of mounting panels

Or a wall, it is best to start by determining the optimal length of the material. It is recommended to provide a solution to this issue in advance. To cut plastic panels, you can resort to using a regular hacksaw.

There is nothing difficult in the installation procedure of such panels. Previously, they are placed in the profile, and then fastened with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to start the installation of plastic panels from the corner of the room. This applies to both the ceiling and the wall. It is also very important to monitor the quality and evenness of the installation of the first element. It should be strictly perpendicular to the wall or ceiling. Otherwise, the panel will not be able to snap into the groove and will need to be removed and reinstalled.

Special crate for plastic panels with fasteners

The edges of the plastic panels should go into the slats. The last detail is adjusted to the optimal distance to the wall. If necessary, you can cut the panel with a regular hacksaw.

Advice! Before performing work related to the installation of plastic panels on a ceiling or wall, it is recommended that you first take care of installing various elements of communication systems. They are able to mask water pipes, electrical wiring or heating pipes well.