Diagonal laying of laminate: material calculation and installation features. Laminate diagonally: a new way to emphasize the originality of the interior (27 photos) Laminate diagonally in a rectangular room

Laminate can be installed in two main ways: straight (along the wall) and diagonally. For narrow, long rooms, straight installation is better, and if the length of the room differs slightly from the width, you can resort to diagonal installation. The process itself is quite laborious and requires more complex calculations.

The main disadvantage of diagonal laying is an increase in material consumption (waste is 10-15%, and when laying in a straight line - 5%). But this flooring option looks good and allows you to create a more sophisticated design. Since the eye usually glides along the long panel joints, this is a good way to draw attention to a piece of furniture in a corner.

The easiest way to calculate diagonally is to determine the area of ​​the room and add 15%, and then divide the result by the area of ​​one laminate panel. There is also a formula for a more accurate calculation.

Let the length and width of the room be X and Y, and the length and width of the laminate panel A and B. In addition to these values, we need a number equal to the square root of 2, which is approximately 1.42.

  1. The area of ​​the room is determined in a standard way, X * Y
  2. Stock area according to the formula Y * B * 1.42
  3. To get the total area of ​​products that will be needed for work, add both results obtained
  4. We divide the amount by the area of ​​one panel of the laminate, we get the number of panels, round the result up

In general, the formula for determining the number of panels n looks like this:

Tip: For diagonal laying, it is better to purchase a laminate with a shorter panel length.

Preparatory work

To cut the laminate, you need a tool with fine teeth, it is best to use a special machine or jigsaw, you can also use a circular saw. As a last resort, a hand saw or a hacksaw for metal is suitable, but for a large amount of work, a power tool is preferable. Cutting can be done as the installation progresses, first preparing panels for 2-3 rows. If a large number of panels are cut, they must be numbered so as not to get confused.

Important: the corners in rooms are often not perfectly straight, so you have to navigate directly on the spot in order to determine at what angle to cut the edges of the panels adjacent to the walls. Especially careful measurements are needed for the first 2-3 rows. If the panel is laid in a place where there is a protrusion, a pipe comes out of the floor, curly cutouts are made according to a cardboard template.

Before starting installation, you must:

  • let the laminate sit in the room for at least a day
  • align, harden, clean the base
  • lay a substrate
  • prepare wedges for expansion gaps (you can use wooden blocks, laminate trim, the optimal width is 1-1.5 cm)

Possible styling options

Diagonal laying of the laminate can be done in 3 ways:

  1. Laying starts from the corner, the first element is in the form of a right-angled triangle
  2. The first fragment fits at some distance from the corner and has the shape of a trapezoid
  3. Laying starts from the center of the room, from the line of its diagonal, the first row is prefabricated

As a rule, work is carried out from left to right, starting from the corner farthest from the doors. It is customary to lay the first row with a tongue (comb) away from you, with a groove towards you. Panels with a conventional lock (Lock) are located in one plane and are knocked down with a light hammer through a wooden gasket for a tight connection. Since it is more convenient to drive a spike into a groove, and not vice versa, it is better to start laying a laminate with such a lock from the corner and work in one direction. If a row consists of several panels, they can be attached to those already laid individually or assembled in a row and connected to the previous one.

Snap-on panels (click) are angled and snap-on, no padding required. The connection can be made on both sides, so the laminate can be started from the center or offset from the corner.

Laying from the corner

On the reverse side of the laminate board, a right-angled triangle with angles of 45 ° is drawn (if the corner of the room is not perfectly straight, the necessary adjustments are made), with the hypotenuse towards the groove. This triangle fits into the corner of the room and wedges from the walls on both sides to create a gap. The unused part of the board will come in handy when laying in the second half of the room.

Then a whole panel is taken, from the edge of the side with the groove to the side with the tongue, a line is drawn at an angle of 45 °. A segment equal to the length of the base of the triangle is laid from the obtained point on the side with the tongue. The second point is connected to the base, so that an angle of 45 ° is formed again, an isosceles trapezoid is cut out. The same principle is observed when cutting the following elements - the length of the smaller base of the next trapezoid should be equal to the length of the larger base of the previous one.

When the length of one panel is not enough to fill the distance from wall to wall, rows of several panels are assembled, first from 2, then from more. The corners are cut only at the outermost panels in each row. The panels must be laid with an offset of half or a third of the length, so that the seams are staggered. Each next laid row is wedged.
After half of the room is covered with laminate, the direction of trimming the corners changes, now the larger base will be on the side of the tongue and the smaller one on the side of the groove. At this stage, you can use the fragments previously formed during cutting.

Video: Laying the laminate diagonally from the corner

Laying in two directions

Laying can start from a solid panel, it is cut at both ends at 45 °, it is laid with cuts parallel to adjacent walls, it is pushed into a corner as far as the walls allow, and wedged. Further, several rows are collected in the direction of expansion. The row immediately following the solid panel can be made of two symmetrical fragments, and in the subsequent ones, the seams are offset. When several rows are assembled, you can fill the corner with smaller pieces. For ease of access, the assembled shield can be pushed towards you, and when the corner is assembled, slide it back, not forgetting the wedges.

If the installation starts from the center, it is necessary to connect the opposite corners of the room with a diagonal line, tracing it on the substrate.

Advice: it is difficult to draw a long line from corner to corner; it is better to pull the lace between nails or screws hammered in the corners.

Then the angle between the drawn diagonal and the wall is measured and the first panel of the laminate is cut at the corresponding angle. It fits into the corner so that its wide base lies on the drawn line, and is separated from the wall with wedges. The required number of whole panels is connected to it with the ends, and the last in a row is cut at the desired angle. Then the second row is assembled, which is a mirror image of the first, only the cutting must be carried out in such a way that the seams are staggered. Further laying is done in both directions from the center, suitable fragments are used immediately.

If the same flooring will be laid in several rooms, and they are not separated by sills, the laminate is not cut along the line of the doorway, the following panels will be connected to the panels extending outside the room.

Video: Laying the laminate diagonally from the center of the room

Outcome

Laminate laid diagonally looks quite impressive, so that labor and material costs are justified. It is best to install the tongue and groove laminate in one direction and start from the corner. With a snap-on laminate, the direction of laying is not essential, so that new rows can be connected to the base on both sides. When laying from the center, small fragments are mounted last, ensuring a more rational consumption of material.

Plain laminate flooring is pretty monotonous. A diagonal finish will look much more interesting, in which even inexpensive and unremarkable laminate panels will look stylish.

This laying technology has a number of advantages over the standard one:

  1. In the case of a non-standard arrangement of window openings, you can displace the material when facing the floor so that the light falls in the desired direction.
  2. If there are strong irregularities in the walls in the room (they are not parallel to each other), the flooring using standard technology will only emphasize this defect. The diagonal arrangement of the panels, provided that the angle of inclination is correctly selected, will hide irregularities.
  3. If the room is small, laying the laminate at an angle will visually expand the space a little.

At the same time, working with the material can cause some difficulties. Firstly, this is a waste of material, so the method is not suitable for those people who are trying to save on the cost of facing. Secondly, the installation procedure is complex, so it is better not to undertake such work without finishing skills.

Features of the method and preparatory work

Prepare to overspend on material - about 15% more laminate will have to be purchased in advance so that you do not run to the store later. This can be explained simply - at the ends of the panels, right next to the wall, each of them will need to be cut and adjusted to the place. Hence the big expenses.

An experienced craftsman already has a flair for how best to position the panels in the room, so the overrun will reach only 5%... If you do not have experience in performing such work, then it is better to stock up on material, waste-free installation will not work.

If it is a concrete floor, then it is necessary to carry out the whole complex of works on waterproofing and leveling. A plastic wrap is laid on top of the dried concrete mixture, then it is the turn of the substrate.

You can use cork or polyurethane, each has some peculiarities, so the choice depends only on you. it will additionally act as a sound insulator, therefore, you need to be careful about laying and fix the joints of the sheets with tape.

Tools for the job

Prepare in advance:

  • substrate in rolls or sheet based on the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe room;
  • mallet and hammer for tapping;
  • square and tape measure;
  • wallpaper or any other sharp knife;
  • pencil;
  • a roll of scotch tape.

It is necessary to lay the laminate at an angle of 45 or according to any other scheme only after leveling the floor. Any unevenness or difference in height is the reason for the appearance of squeaks, loose panels or even a bulging coating. Remember that the service life of the floor will depend on the quality of the leveling.

Smooth linoleum can not be further processed, the concrete floor with irregularities is poured with a self-leveling mixture, and it is advisable to loop the wooden boards and carefully coat each joint with putty. The finished base is checked again using a level for horizontalness.


We roll out the roll strip of the substrate around the perimeter of the room, cut off the excess and glue all the joints with tape. The substrate should reach the walls of the room, but if heating pipes are on its way, then the sheets are cut to size.

Remember that when laying laminate flooring at an angle of 45 degrees, it is not mounted close to the wall, so you need to stock up on spacers in advance. Even trims of laminate panels can act as such wedges, with the help of which you can leave a gap of the required width. To trim panels under the wall, prepare a square or a 45-degree template in advance for more accurate marking.

Now it's time to move on to the process of installing the first row.... We place each board on the floor, measure out the excess with a ruler or square and draw a cut line with a pencil. The excess is cut off with a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw. First, you need to place all the boards from a row on the floor, and only then measure the pieces from the outermost ones.

After that, the boards of the row are fastened together, and it's time to put the next row. Be sure to leave a gap for the wedges near the wall itself.... In a similar way, the excess is measured on the extreme panels of the new row, after which it is tightly attached to the previous one and tapped with a hammer. Deformation of the panel can be avoided by placing a rag or rubber pad under the hammer.

To lay a row, all the end locks of the panels are connected. It is necessary to slightly raise the free edge of the panel, insert the lock and snap them into place by lightly pressing on the floor. The panel can be shaken lightly so it will find the desired position faster. The easiest way to carry out the installation work is with an assistant.

Installation specifics


Laying the laminate should be carried out at a temperature of 20 to 26 C and in conditions of humidity from 45% to 75%... In this way, the possibility of deformation of the covering strips can be excluded. Additionally, it is recommended not to start installation work immediately, but to leave the packaging with laminate in the room where the repair is being carried out for a couple of days.

The process of laying the laminate diagonally does not have any particular difficulties, but in order to obtain a high-quality result for a long time, it is important to adhere to the following rules:

  1. first you need to determine the direction of laying (usually the far left corner in the room) at an angle of 30-45 degrees;
  2. remember to insert spacer wedges (about 10 mm in size) between the walls and the edges of the laminate panels. This creates expansion joints and the coating will not swell;
  3. it is best to install at a 45 degree staggered angle. But since not in every room the walls are connected at an angle of 90 degrees, the first row will immediately need to be adjusted to the existing angle;
  4. during the installation process, it is imperative to ensure that the last bar exactly matches the shape of the next one.

This gives you a spectacular floor that will last for years.


Laminate flooring today is chosen by many for flooring - it is not only very convenient to choose it for the design solution of almost any apartment, but it is also quite easy to lay it yourself and without unnecessary expenses.

Those who were at least superficially interested in this issue know that you can lay the laminate either in a straight or diagonal way. Both of these methods have their advantages and disadvantages - for example, a straight line is perfect for laying on your own, even if there is not enough experience in this matter, however, this method can only be used to lay laminate in a room with a standard layout - elongated in length. For square rooms, it is necessary to lay the laminate diagonally - we cover how to do this correctly in this article.

Despite the fact that the installation of a laminate floor is a technology that requires adherence to technical recommendations, it is quite possible to do it yourself. Let's take a closer look at how you can lay the laminate diagonally, what are the advantages and disadvantages in this process, and also compare the various methods of laying flooring.

It's no secret that today the laminate floor is at the peak of popularity, so for most people there is a question of installation - and some prefer to do the work on their own, adjusting the finished result to their needs and needs, as well as making quite significant savings.

Most often, those who have no experience in laying the floor do it in the usual straight way and lay the panels in a straight line, along the walls in the room.

Such a solution is good only for those rooms that have the correct shape - if there are features such as an unconventional shape or rounded walls, it is the diagonal laying method that will help.

If, with the standard technique, laminate panels are laid so that they are parallel to one wall and perpendicular to the other, otherwise they are laid diagonally at an angle of about 45 degrees. This is usually the angle that will produce the best results.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

One of the main advantages that I would like to highlight is an interesting and original view of the room, a good design solution that visually adds volume to the space while maintaining the usual length and width. The coverings laid out in this way look neat in narrow rooms that are very elongated in length. If the room has the shape of a hexagon, has niches or rounds, then with the direct method of laying, most of the flaws will be noticeable immediately.

List of advantages:


Disadvantages, unfortunately, are also present:


In general, with a competent approach, this method has much more advantages than disadvantages.

How to prepare

Every zealous and careful owner should know that the foundation is extremely important when performing preparatory work. Having analyzed what material the base is made of, it will be possible to choose the right type of preparatory work. Usually there are two different types of bottom base.

Concrete

Usually, we are talking about a concrete base if the repair is carried out in an apartment building with a large number of floors. In this case, preparation will begin with pouring a screed made of cement and concrete - it is easy and accessible to everyone. There is no need to involve outside forces and employees.

Here's what to look for if you have a concrete base:

  • the screed will dry out for at least 3 weeks;
  • to quickly cope with drying, add plasticizers to the prepared solution;
  • be sure to make sure that the screed is neat, without cracks and grooves - such parts can significantly harm and bring some problems in the future. To avoid this, it is easier to simply replace the screed with a new one.

If you take into account all these nuances, then the result will be of high quality and faster.

floor screed

Wood base

Of course, wood is a much less durable and stable material, despite the abundance of all kinds of impregnations and compositions. That is why try to perform a few simple steps before installing the laminate that will allow the floors to last longer:


List of instruments

First of all, we need a saw with fine teeth, a special machine, jigsaw or "circular" is also well suited. However, remember that hacksaws and hand saws will not work for metal cutting.

Additionally, purchase a hammer, measuring tape, sticks and wedges, as well as pencils and rulers for taking measurements.

How much laminate flooring will take?

It is very simple to carry out an accurate calculation of the number of boards required for work with the classical method - it is enough to find out the ratio of the total area of ​​the entire room and the area of ​​a single board.

At the same time, large panels are first laid out and cut to the end to the desired size, then, in the second row, whole panels will need to be put, in addition to the last one - it is carefully trimmed until the desired size is reached. The same is done with the third, and with any next step.

In general, the installation principle will practically not differ from that with direct editing - with the only difference that the trims will be triangular, and initially the amount of material should be prepared more. So, the amount is calculated from the area of ​​the room, however, it will be necessary to add about 15 percent of the amount of material for additional waste. For particularly experienced pavers, this number can be reduced to 5 percent, with average values ​​around 10 percent.

Interesting! This amount of stock will be required when laying at an angle of 45 degrees, if the angle increases, then there will be more waste. Better not to deviate from gold standards.

What rules should be followed


A little trick from the owner: the pieces of laminate that are left from the first laid row can be a great start to the next.

It is best to stick to an angle of up to 45 degrees (okay - about 30). This method of laying is good for rooms with a width of up to 6 meters and a length of up to 8 meters.

In what cases the laminate is not laid

Laminate flooring is not always a good option for flooring. There are conditions that make this type of coverage impossible, or impose certain restrictions on the use.

First of all, you can not put the laminate coating on glue (or any similar method) - this not only looks terrible, but also reduces the durability of operation. Shrinkage of the building or changes in temperature will lead to the fact that the coating will simply move.

Interesting! Laminate is an unsuitable option for those rooms where the natural humidity is higher (this applies to saunas or baths, showers, open spaces, balconies and terraces).

If the room assumes high traffic or the constant presence of a large number of people, then it is better to give preference to another material that is more resistant to wear and tear.

Laying technology: making the right choice

Remember that the choice of the technology by which the installation will be carried out is a very important task that cannot be neglected. Here are the basic techniques.

MethodDescription
Adhesive mountingWith it, laminate boards are attached using glue mixtures specially selected at the end. This method is good in that there is the possibility of good sealing of the joint areas, good waterproofing, no deformation and resistance to temperature changes. Such an installation is quite easy and simple to carry out. However, the disadvantages include the impossibility of replacing individual elements if they are damaged - only through total dismantling.
Castle ClickThis method is considered one of the most popular - so the laminate is mounted quite easily, the method is accessible even for beginners, and the boards are attached using such a system at an angle, which allows you to quickly and conveniently dismantle the coating partially in the event of damage or other deformation of the board.
Castle LockThe lock Lock's method is similar to the "Click", however, the parts will be fastened precisely in the horizontal plane - for example, when installing boards between walls or performing the second row along the length, if the distance between the rows of boards is small. The boards are knocked down with a bar and a hammer between two rows. All rows will subsequently be mounted in the same way, without changes.

Step-by-step instructions for performing the technique of laying the laminate flooring diagonally

As we have already mentioned several times earlier, any laying of flooring begins with good preparation - first, the base is leveled, all irregularities are eliminated, after which all debris, dirt and foreign objects are completely removed.

The second step in the preparation will be the implementation of the backing layer - usually the sheets (in case the backing is sheet) must be laid out with a spacing of the joints - the sheets are fastened using adhesive tape. If you prefer a roll substrate, it is still easier - the sheets are rolled out in rolls over the entire floor area from wall to wall. If on the way of rolling and laying the base there is a pipe or other element that cannot be removed, it will be enough to carefully cut the backing.

  1. The first method: the starting point for laying the laminate floor will be the corner of the room farthest from the door, a triangular fragment of the covering is placed in the corner, which is formed by cutting the board at an even angle of forty-five degrees. Next, the elements are laid at the same angle - they will be trapezoidal boards.
  2. The second method: we lay the laminate from the central point of the room, which is determined by the intersection of the diagonals of two opposite corners. In this case, the first laid out row will be the longest; it will need to be laid out from several elements of the laminate flooring.

Remember that you will need to leave gaps near the walls and elements of the heating system. For evenness, use specially selected wedges or simply trim laminate boards.

Not sure how to trim your material to an exact 45 degree angle? It couldn't be easier - use a regular square and create a template for cutting the material.

Corner way

This is the simplest and most common method of installing laminate flooring. It is recommended to make sure that the long sides of each board (panel) are located in the direction of the sun's rays that enter the room - this will make the joints less noticeable, the floor looks more even and neat.

The boards, as already mentioned, will have a trapezoidal shape. Accordingly, the length of the upper side of the board will be equal to the lower side of the previously laid trapezoid.

Step-by-step instruction.

  1. Accurate measurements are carried out taking into account all allowances and technological clearances. Use a tape measure and square, and use a prepared template. All lines will be drawn using the most ordinary pencil. The edges are trimmed with a hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw along the lines drawn earlier.
  2. If more than one board is stacked in a row, you will need to trim the first panel from the left into a triangle.
  3. The boards will be connected to each other in the same row with their short end sides, after which the already assembled row is connected to the previously laid one.
  4. Once you have laid the last panel, the final joining of the last row is done, the floor will need to be tapped and compacted.
  5. In the same way, gradually you will lay out all the rows one after another and approach another corner of the room - the cutting direction will be changed, now we are moving not from short to long rows, but exactly the opposite. All rows will be laid in the same way.

    All rows must fit the same

  6. Our installation ends with the installation of the last small triangle, which you cut out from the panel in advance - it will be exactly the same as the triangle that you laid the very first.

Laying method from the center

If you have decided and decided to lay the laminate diagonally, starting from the central part of the room, adhere to the following recommendations.

  1. Draw a conditional diagonal between opposite corners of the room. The method is at your discretion - you can simply draw this line on the backing or stretch the rope from one corner to another.
  2. Next, measure the size of the cut angle on the first board between the rope and the wall closest to it - as soon as you draw the cut line on the board, cut along it. This board is placed with its long side on a diagonal, leaving wedges near the wall to make a gap.
  3. Then other panels are attached to the first board with short sides, while the last board at the bottom must be cut to the desired size at the desired angle (you determined its size earlier).
  4. All the following rows are laid according to a similar pattern, the joints are shifted according to the principle of a checkerboard. Thus, you will come to the fact that in adjacent rows the joints will be obtained with an offset - this will allow the flooring to be stronger, less prone to deformation.
  5. Also, the end joints in adjacent rows will be located according to the checkerboard type.

Summing up - first connect the ends of the panels (as a rule, with the help of locks), then fasten the already assembled rows with the long sides with the previous rows.

The most convenient thing is to carry out such an installation together, because you will need to connect several boards in long rows, there will be no unnecessary help. If this is not possible, then just use a small weight: as soon as you have connected part of one row and clicked the locks, just press the connected boards with the weight and continue to interlock the parts in the row. Fear not - the jointed planks must not fall apart.

Observe a technological gap of about 10 mm between the walls and panels - this will allow the floor to lie more evenly, especially if the room often changes climatic parameters. You will later remove these gaps under the skirting boards, they will not be noticeable.

Installation features

It will not be superfluous to pay special attention to how best to arrange the places of contact of panels with heating pipes.

The first way is to drill a hole in the panel that will be about one and a half centimeters larger than the pipe diameter. This gap can be made on two butt-boards by drilling a separate semicircle for each. Or, if you want, drill a hole in the board, and then divide the laminate sheet into two halves.

Use sealants to seal the area where the panel meets the cut-outs and central heating pipes (or other items that cannot be dismantled).

As you can see, everything is very simple - laying laminate flooring in a diagonal way does not present any great difficulties, it only requires accuracy and precision in budgeting and counting the material. Without planning, it's best not to start this method. As a result, you will have a neat and beautiful floor with an unusual coating effect that you could do with your own hands.

The room looks more spacious, it has more visually defined space - this will be a huge advantage for apartments with a small living space.

When installing, pay attention to the fact that there may be difficulties when purchasing goods from brands such as "Kronotex", "Berry Flour", "Tarkett", "Vitex" and "Pergo". The fact is that each of these companies has a number of developments that can affect how the panels are displaced, what type of lock and its size. If you are faced with the fact that you have difficulty connecting blocks, then create rows with alternating short and long locks.

Interesting! It will be most accurate to cut the material with an electric jigsaw from the wrong side - this way you will protect the surface from chips.

Laying the laminate on top of the cement screed is usually carried out no earlier than a week after application. In winter, it is better to wait three weeks or even a month. To level hardwood floors, use OSB slabs, isolon or underlayment.

jigsaw

In no case do not lay the laminate in a continuous manner for the entire apartment, especially if the covering is laid in several rooms at once, in the hallway and in the kitchen. Try to make sure that each room has its own individual direction for laying the panels.

If you use parquet as a base, be sure to repair it so that it does not creak.

If you are still not sure that you will be able to lay the laminate on your own, it is better not to risk it and enlist the help of specialists. The overpayment for a high-quality installation will more than pay off with long-term operation and the absence of the need for repair work.

Remember that laminate flooring is sensitive to water, so do not use water-based adhesives. Also, avoid the ingress of sand or fine gravel, which can scratch the surface. After finishing the installation, wipe the floor with a microfiber cloth.

Laminate floors look noble, neat, durable and of high quality. Be sure to consider the temperature and humidity in the room.

When laying, sort the cuttings and try to make the most of them during installation.

Medium-sized panels are well suited for diagonal installation.

Diagonally laid laminate: interior solutions

Try to experiment: for example, panels with contrasting colors or just shades that are slightly different look good - this gives the flooring expressiveness.

There should be a slight difference in color from the walls - this is a general rule of room design. Try not to overload the room with dark or light colors in the interior.

Of course, you can also lay dark laminate diagonally - it will look good in offices and bedrooms.

Let's summarize

In the article, we set out the basic rules for installing and laying laminate flooring made in a diagonal way. Despite the fact that this is a rather laborious and in some places more complicated process than laying with the traditional direct method, the result is usually much more advantageous and creates room for creativity and imagination. The room will look much more beautiful and original, often the appearance of the room is truly transformed. Use different colors and feel free to look for your own solutions.

We examined the main advantages and disadvantages of this method, as well as the features of its self-styling. If you want the flooring to look good and harmonious, then we recommend that you choose this method.

Feel free to experiment, learn new things and get acquainted with interesting design solutions - and success in transforming your home!

Video - Video tutorial on laying laminate diagonally

There are two main ways to lay laminate flooring: straight and diagonal. The first option is easier for beginners, but it suits mainly in a narrow, elongated room. If it is close to square in shape, it becomes possible to work diagonally - and you need to be able to do it properly.

Pros and cons of the method

Often among the disadvantages of laying the laminate diagonally is the increased labor intensity and complication of calculations. More material will have to be used up - the amount of waste doubles and triples even for the most skillful and experienced people. But still, there is a significant advantage: attractive appearance and the ability to create a spectacular design. A glance gliding along the long joints between the panels perceives this way of flooring better.

Diagonal technology allows you to visually expand the space in the room, which is very beneficial for small apartments and houses. Judging by the reviews, this solution looks especially good in a space that is not cluttered with furniture and other interior items. The drawing can be prepared as varied as possible, and any professional designer uses this. And a responsible builder will not cite difficulties, because he also understands the stylistic advantages of such an option.

Laying laminate strips diagonally in a very complex room is even easier than using the classic "straight" method. But keep in mind that any master will undertake to lay the covering in this way only with an increased payment, because he values ​​his time and effort.

Preparatory work

Laying the laminate in a diagonal way requires a very accurate calculation, competent cutting. It is best to cut the laminate into no more than three rows of panels. When preparing a larger quantity, be sure to number each block so as not to forget exactly where to put it. Since perfectly right angles are not found everywhere, it is more correct to estimate the angle for trimming panels adjacent to the walls by trying them on. The laminate, laid over the protrusions, recesses, places where pipes are exited, is cut according to cardboard templates.

Whether you are installing your laminate diagonally or in a straight way, you need to prepare the surface. The floor is treated with leveling mixtures to an ideal state, all debris and foreign objects are removed. Immediately before laying, it is advisable to sweep the subfloor, strengthen it with a primer. A cellophane film is placed on it, and then a substrate or sheets of cork. That's all, after that only you can start the main part of the work.

How to put it right?

The generally accepted rules are as follows:

  • the laminate must be kept indoors for at least 24 hours before laying;
  • it is leveled;
  • strengthen;
  • clean the base;
  • lay the substrate;
  • wedges are prepared for expansion gaps (bars of wood or trimming of the laminate itself, best of all 10-15 mm wide).

Lay the laminate from the corner, first by drawing a right triangle on the back of the boards(its corners are adjusted depending on the straightness of the wall joints in the room). In this case, the hypotenuse must "look" in the direction of the groove. The triangle is placed in the corner and wedged so that an interval appears.

Do not throw away the remaining part of the board, it will still be needed when laying in the other half of the room.

When the gap appears, take the whole panel, from the border of the side where the groove, in the direction of the section with the tongue, draw a line at an angle of 45 degrees. Now draw a line from its end point, the length of which is the same as at the base of the triangle. Connect the second point to the base, again at 45 degrees, so you should get an isosceles trapezoid. Observing these simple principles, you can achieve excellent results even without special skills and abilities.

Required tools

You can cut the laminate with any cutting tool with a fine tooth. Experts recommend using special machines and electric jigsaws, circular saws. Unless you are going to use the repair as an excuse to train willpower and patience, do not try to use hand saws and hacksaws for metal. In addition to the basic tools, you will also need:

  • hammer;
  • roulette;
  • block for padding;
  • wedges for forming gaps;
  • ruler and pencil for measuring short pieces of material.

Calculations

It is easy to estimate the approximate material consumption: knowing the area of ​​the room, add 15% to it and divide by the known area of ​​a single panel. A formula with more accurate results has also been developed. The length of the room is conventionally denoted as X, the width as Y, the designations A and B are used for the length and width of the laminate panels, respectively.

The area of ​​the room is calculated by multiplying its length and width. The stock is calculated multiplying UxV and by 1.42; this is how the area for which the laminate should definitely be enough is obtained, if it did not deteriorate at all during installation. Then both figures are summed up, the sum is divided by the area of ​​a unit block and the resulting number of panels is rounded up.

Prepare the layout of the premises and once again discuss with the seller how much coverage to take, otherwise you run the risk of facing an excess or, more often, a lack of material at the most crucial moment.

Execution technique

The diagonal way of placing the laminate is divided into three typical types:

  • In the first of them, work begins with a corner, the very first element is a right-angled triangle.
  • In the second, they begin to act with an indent from the corner, the initial fragment is a trapezoid.
  • And in the third scheme, laying is carried out from the middle, from a line running diagonally across the room, the first row is made prefabricated.

The layout most often starts from the corner that is farthest from the entrance; when working, they move from left to right. The initial row is placed with the comb away from you and the groove towards you. If blocks with a typical lock are used, they must be positioned in the same plane and, having laid a wooden spacer, knocked out with light blows of a wooden hammer. Since the tenon is easier to drive into the groove, and not to “catch” the tenons with the grooves, the work proceeds from the corner to one side.

When a row is formed by several panels at once (and this happens, of course, in most cases), you can either add them one after the other, or immediately form a chain, then attach it to the previous one. Snap blocks no need to knock, double-sided docking is possible, leading either from the middle, or from an indent from the edge.

The trapezoid method requires that the length of the smallest base of any figure does not differ from the length of the largest base of the previous one. If one panel is not enough to close the gap between the walls, whole rows are assembled, and the corners can only be cut off at the blocks that end the chain.

You can put a laminate flooring from the center of the room with your own hands, connecting opposite corners with a diagonally running strip(it is drawn on a substrate). If this is difficult for you, there is an easier way - nails are hammered in the corners or self-tapping screws are screwed in, after which a lace or rope is pulled between them. Measure the angle separating the diagonal and the nearest wall, it will show you exactly how to cut the first panel. It is placed in the corner with its wide part on the prepared line, fenced off from the wall with wedges.

As many panels are attached to the initial block with the ends as needed, only the final row requires a cut at a certain angle. Each tier duplicates the previous one, but they are cut so that the seams do not coincide, they run up.

To the right and left of the middle, you need to use the appropriate elements. When there is no threshold between several rooms, and the same flooring will be applied in each of them, no trimming of the laminate in the opening is done. And those panels that do not fit in one room will immediately be connected to the next.

Laying laminate with comb-and-groove locks is advisable only in one direction, moreover, from the corner; if you choose a cover with snaps, this does not really matter, and the following chains can be attached to the previous ones from different sides.

Starting from the middle of the room, save the smallest fragments for later so as not to waste material. From the wall to the edge of the blocks, one-centimeter spreading wedges are placed, which can then be removed - their role is to avoid immediate adjoining surfaces and create an expansion joint.

Important: watch if the walls have begun to narrow throughout the work, because then the laying will begin in turn.

The final part of a certain layer turns into the initial part for the opposite segment. When laying the laminate of individual manufacturers obliquely, pay attention to its specific features. Problems may arise with products from:

  • Kronotex;
  • Berry Flour;
  • "Tarkett";
  • Vitex;
  • Pergo.

Each of these concerns have their own developments that affect the characteristics of the offset, the type of lock and the size. If it suddenly turns out to be difficult to connect the blocks, the solution may be to create whole rows with alternating long and short locks.

Development is not only in the technology of manufacturing materials for decoration, but also in the method of their installation. Laminate is a beautiful, high quality material. Recently, it has become popular to lay laminate flooring diagonally in an apartment. This method is suitable for those who want to add zest to their interior, to make it more individual. This type of styling will also allow you to visually expand the room. You can do the work yourself.

Calculation of the material for this installation method. Is it true that more of it is needed than with traditional styling?

For diagonal installation, the amount of material must be calculated using a special formula that differs from that used in the straight-line method. You need to take the length of the room and the width and multiply them. To this product it is necessary to add the product of the width of one board by 1.42 times the width of the room.

Mathematically, the formula for the calculation looks like this: AC - the width of the room; CD is the length of the room; 1.42 is the square root of 2; (ACxCD) + (1.42 AC x the width of one board).


Calculating the amount of laminate flooring per room

When mounting diagonally, you actually need more material than when mounting. This is easy to explain. The thing is that in areas where the ends of the panels are adjacent to the walls, they need to be cut in a certain way. So waste-free production will not work here. It is advisable to take the material with a margin of 15-20%.

Diagonal laying of the laminate can be done by hand.


Laminate laying tool

You will need the following tools for this:

  1. hammer;
  2. tape measure with a pencil;
  3. jigsaw;
  4. block for padding;
  5. wedges for spacers.

Before you start laying the laminate diagonally, you need to carry out certain preparatory operations. , clean up the trash. In order to make the surface even, you can use self-leveling mixtures. They are very easy to use and give excellent results.

It is better to sweep the floor first, and only then to strengthen the floor with a primer.

After that, you need to cover the surface with cellophane. A substrate is placed on it, or else. Before starting work, it is necessary to hold the material indoors for about a couple of days. This will prevent it from swelling and shrinking.

You can lay the laminate diagonally in two ways: from the center and from the corner. Both methods are used quite often, but the first one gives the least amount of waste. You can do the work yourself.

Angle method:


Angle method
  1. If you choose to lay your laminate from a corner, you should start with a solid panel that is trimmed on both sides to the correct angle. It is this panel that will indicate the direction in the future. It is important to remember that the panel must be wedged from the wall by 10 in order to compensate for thermal expansion.
  2. If there is a heating system not far from the corner in which you start work, then it is worth starting from here. At the junction with the system, you can immediately make a cutout. This will simplify the task. From the main panel it is worth moving to the center of the room. With this laying, the rows will subsequently increase in length. So it is imperative to offset the seams by about half the length of the panel. So the reliability will be much higher, and the floor itself will look more beautiful. Watch the tutorial video, you can understand the editing system faster.
  3. The panels in each row must be fastened at the ends. An exception is the line segments that are adjacent to the walls. The row is laid out in its own place, while it is not adhered to the previous one too tightly. After that, a measurement is carried out at 2 points. This length is reduced by 10 mm and transferred to the panel to be cut. It is important to note that if the walls are strictly opposite each other, then the angle that remains after trimming should fit exactly on the opposite side. This way you can avoid wasting material.
  4. After you have prepared the parts, remove the row from the lock, and then reassemble it completely at the ends. And only after that the clutch is made with the lock from the last row.

Center method:


Center method

Laying the laminate diagonally can be done using the "from the center" method. With this method, the first to be laid is a long prefabricated row. He will give direction in the future. Its installation is carried out in the same way as described in the previous method. After that, it is worth starting the installation of the coating, first to one corner, and then to the other.

This technique is justified for those rooms in which external corners are present.

It is better to start the first row from the outer corners tangentially. After you complete the installation, you will need to remove the spacers and attach the skirting boards to the wall.

How to remove the edge panel

Remove the edge panel

Measure the length to the wall. Transfer the measurements to the material. Measure the length from the opposite end. Again, transfer the measurements to the material. The points that you got will need to be connected. It is better to cut with a jigsaw from the inside out. So on the front you will not have chips.


To fasten all the locks

To lay them out, you need to fasten all the locks. Install one panel at an angle to the other. Next, press on the floor, the lock will snap into place, so you need to fasten all the rows. Now hold the sides together, the more you have made the row, the harder it will be to click it. The technology is the same: slightly lift the opposite edge. Install the timber in the lock, click on the floor and click it into place. In order for the panel to enter its position, you can shake it slightly. And to see the process more clearly, turn on the video.

This installation method in this way has its pros and cons.


Mounting method

Its main advantage is beauty. You can easily hide room imperfections. The disadvantages include higher material consumption.

If you decide to lay the laminate flooring in the apartment, then you can do it yourself.

To do this, just watch the training video. This floor will look very unusual and elegant. It will make your room bigger.

Video

In today's video, you will see how to properly lay laminate flooring diagonally in a master class.
Thanks to this material, you will learn a lot of useful things for yourself.

Photo source: laminatekspert.ru, strmnt.com