Features of the installation of electrical wiring in rooms from various building materials. Rules for installing hidden electrical wiring in an apartment and house Sequence for installing hidden electrical wiring

Everyone who has been doing repairs in the house is familiar with the concept of hidden wiring. Someone decided where and how to lay it, and someone needed to find it. But they have one thing in common: you have to tinker with the wiring. This article will discuss the basic principles that should guide the work when installing and searching for hidden electrical wiring, as well as equipment that should make work easier.

Advantages of concealed wiring

To begin with, it is worth deciding what is hidden wiring? As the name implies, it is not visible to the eye and can be located inside structures: in walls, under the ceiling, under the floor, in the ceiling. As a rule, it is laid in pipes, in PVC corrugations, metal hoses or in strobes.

There are many advantages to this type of wiring:

  • as the name implies, it is not visible, which means it does not interfere with the design and does not distract the eye - the room looks more attractive;
  • this method is safer from the point of view of fire safety and electrical safety (being in an inaccessible place for air, sunlight and ordinary consumers, any short circuit will remain local);
  • thanks to modern materials, once having mounted all the wiring, you can forget about it for several decades, and it will work properly.

Disadvantages of hidden wiring

With so many advantages, there are also disadvantages, but they are leveled by competent installation and further proper operation. Flaws:

  • inaccessibility after commissioning (over time, there may be situations when it is necessary to replace, repair the wiring or simply not get into it when installing new furniture or equipment, but this task can be difficult due to inaccessibility);
  • the work of installing the wiring itself is quite laborious (chasing walls, laying pipes in grooves).

Concealed wiring v wooden house most prone to such shortcomings. Therefore, in such situations, most often all the electrics are pulled into cable channels.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

When performing the installation of electrical wiring, it is worth remembering some requirements for it:

    1. fire safety requirements. For example, it is forbidden to lay wires without corrugations under the inner lining wooden house. It is worth laying metal pipes or PVC corrugation, and the corrugation must be fire-resistant. The same requirements can be attributed to brick, concrete houses, as well as during installation behind drywall;
    2. Wiring must be replaceable. This is a very handy property for future renovations. If the wiring is deep in the wall, but it can be freely extended and replaced, this will greatly facilitate the work. But as a rule, this requirement is not met, because it is very difficult to lay a pipe in a concrete wall, and PVC corrugation is often pinched with mortar or makes sharp turns through which you can then not stretch anything. So that in the future you do not have to look for wiring in the walls for a long time, making unnecessary destruction, you should immediately do a competent installation. For example, be sure to wire at a right angle, not diagonally. This will allow you to easily trace the path of the wire in the future. It is also worth trying to lay pipes strictly vertically along the walls or horizontally under the ceiling;
    3. After installation, it is worth compiling an accurate and detailed wiring diagram indicating the location of junction boxes and wires. This scheme should be saved for future repairs, so as not to accidentally get into a live wire when you need to hang a new photo frame;

  1. For laying wires in a hidden way, it is worth laying more power. For example, for lighting it is worth using wires with a cross section of 1.5 square meters. mm, for sockets - 2.5 sq. mm. It is also recommended to use a three-wire cable, even if the ground wire has not yet been brought into the house. Perhaps in the future it will appear, and in the junction boxes everything will already be assembled properly;
  2. Shtroblenie. This is the dirtiest job in home electrical work. It should be carried out at the initial stage of repair. Immediately with the strobes, you should prepare holes for the sockets. After laying all the wires, the strobes are sealed with plaster or plaster.

Search for hidden electrical wiring

Everyone who has ever made repairs in the house, faced the problem of finding hidden wiring. If you need to hammer a nail, and in doing so you get into a live wire, this can lead to serious consequences. In addition, after such an unwanted contact, you have to change the wiring. So experienced builders before any action, they search for hidden wiring. How to find electrical wiring in the wall? If there is no executive wiring diagram, you can use the device to detect hidden wiring.

The cheapest tool is a voltage gauge or indicator screwdriver. The price is about 150 rubles. It works on the principle of capturing the presence electromagnetic field. As a rule, it has three levels of sensitivity:

"O" - the definition of the phase in the supply network.

"L" - non-contact detection of the presence of electrical wiring with low sensitivity.

"H" - non-contact detection of the presence of electrical wiring with increased sensitivity.

This device can detect only those wires that are in this moment under tension. At the same time, it will show the location of the field within a radius of 10-20 cm from the wire itself. Therefore, a screwdriver should be used only in cases where accuracy is not so important.

Those who have about 1500 rubles. can purchase the E-121 signaling device, popularly called the Woodpecker. It allows you to find wiring at a depth of up to 8 cm. The essence of its functioning is based on the principle of electrostatics of an alternating electric field. When the antenna approaches the current source, the electrodynamic force begins to work, and the equipment gives a signal. It can be seen that the "Woodpecker" finds only those wires that are energized. As you approach the voltage source, the intensity of the signals supplied by the devices increases. Thus, it is possible to determine quite accurately both the location of the wires and the break in the hidden wiring.

Metal detector Zircon TriScanner PRO SL. It costs a little more - about 2 thousand rubles. But the device allows you to detect metal constructions, wooden structures, as well as concealed wiring even if it is not energized. This is possible due to the fact that it works on the principle of a metal detector. Therefore, this device can quite accurately determine the path along which the wires are laid. But the disadvantage is that, perhaps, there are not wires, but self-tapping screws, nails or fittings.

Outcome

When installing electrical wiring, you should think about how to conduct it in a hidden way, because. it is safe and aesthetically pleasing. The main thing is to remember where it is!

From time to time we make repairs in our apartment or in a private house, and as a rule we are faced with the need to replace electrical wiring. Experts offer to carry out electrical work before proceeding with the main repair and decoration of the premises. In new apartments or houses, this work is usually carried out immediately after the construction of walls and internal partitions and before the start of the floor screed process. If you have wiring done from aluminum wires, we strongly recommend that you change it immediately. Moreover, the replacement must be carried out entirely. After all, connections in junction boxes of old aluminum wires with new copper wires are extremely dangerous and can lead to a fire. Of course, the features of electrical installation, the specifics of working with hidden wiring are thoroughly known by professionals. They are the ones who know how to correctly calculate the cross section of the required wire and determine the allowable load. But every literate, educated tenant must have a basic understanding of the electrical wiring elements and the work associated with its installation.

Wiring planning

At the first stage, the owner plans the places where he is going to locate and install electrical appliances, suggests what his requirements for lighting in the premises are. Determined by the installation height of sockets and switches. A specialist electrician calculates the number of electrical outlets, draws up a diagram and determines on the spot how to properly connect hidden electrical wiring to all these devices, where to place sockets and switches, how to correctly distribute the leads for chandeliers, light bulbs, sconces, etc. The specialist also determines the installation location of the main electrical panel, the number and current characteristics of the protective shutdown elements. The peculiarity of this wiring is that all electrical communications are hidden, invisible. Recall once again that electrical installation should be done before the start construction works, because the wiring is mounted in the voids of partitions, behind a false ceiling, in the plaster covering of walls, ceilings, etc.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

in concrete and brick walls before starting the electrical installation, chasing is carried out. Small strobes are laid in the wall with a depth of 20 mm and a width of 10-15 mm. For this work, there is a wall chaser that makes even grooves in any material. You can use for such grooves and a simple puncher with a special nozzle for crushing. As a last resort, you can use a grinder with a diamond wheel to cut the grooves yourself. For reliability, it is recommended to fix the wiring in the strobes with dowel-clamps or a mixture of alabaster, which instantly hardens, thereby firmly fixing the wire. This is the first, rough stage of laying the electrical wire. After the wires are routed from the junction box to the right places and rough fixed in the strobe, the next “cosmetic” step should be taken - to plaster or putty the groove.

Installation of electrical wiring in suspended ceilings

The most common, quite simple, very fast way conducting hidden wiring - this is laying behind suspended ceilings. When a false ceiling is mounted, there will certainly be a gap in which telephone, antenna and electrical wires can be installed. You can also do wiring there. electrical wires to all kinds of lamps. Installation always starts from the junction box upwards, clamps are fastened (screwed) along the ceiling, which firmly hold the cable. When wiring in false ceiling it must be remembered that there is air in the gap between the base of the ceiling and its suspended part. This is fraught with the fact that a short circuit may cause a fire. In order to avoid this, in suspended structures with cavities, it is recommended to lay the wires in a corrugated PVC pipe (corrugated hose), in which each cable is placed separately from the other. The corrugated hose has such an excellent property: in case of strong heating of the cable and fire, the corrugated hose shrinks in this place, localizes and extinguishes the fire.

Installation of electrical wiring in drywall

Running electrical wiring in plasterboard walls is somewhat similar to wiring in false ceilings. In this case, there is also a place where one or another communication can be carried out. And in this case, fire safety rules should not be neglected, and therefore also wiring in the corrugation. Work on the installation of communications in plasterboard structures is carried out before sheathing the ceiling, walls, and floor with plasterboard. Having installed a metal "skeleton" - a special frame, all the wires are led to the junction box - a node that is fixed in the box. From this node, the wires diverge to switches, sockets, lamps. After installing the wires and other communications, you should proceed to sheathing the frame with drywall, pre-cutting holes for boxes, switches and sockets in the right places. And at the end of the work, a bunch of wires is pulled out, a socket is installed.

Installation of electrical wiring in floors

Installation of hidden wiring in the floors also has its own characteristics. It is carried out before the floor screed is made. The main advantage of such a gasket is that it saves money on strobes in the walls. And also wires are saved due to their more direct laying to the places of electrical outlets. A solid wire is laid from the switchboard to the outlet, it is easy to fix it over the floor area, and then pour it with a screed from above. There are no special complications in this work, just in the electrical project, the places where the cable will be located should be clearly indicated. This is necessary, first of all, so that when laying floor coverings, if it is necessary to drill holes in the floor, do not damage the electrical wires.

Installation of electrical sockets, switches

Modern technologies are designed to ensure that boxes, switches and sockets are installed with a minimum protrusion from the wall. As mentioned above, special recesses are made in the walls with drywall, in which socket boxes are installed specially designed for installation in drywall structures. In rooms with concrete walls everything is different, but not so difficult with certain knowledge and skills. In the recent past, a hammer and a chisel were used to install a socket in a concrete wall. Currently, there is a wonderful puncher with special nozzles, templates that are drilled into the wall required hole. Then the recess should be cleaned of dust, dilute the alabaster, coat the recess, and then put the socket box on the mixture. The frozen alabaster mixture firmly fixes the socket. In the same way, junction boxes, switches, telephone and TV sockets are installed. When the alabaster hardens firmly, the wiring is pulled out into the socket and the inside of the socket, switch is mounted.

Conclusions on wiring hidden wiring

In the event that you want to install hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house without hanging or plasterboard ceiling, then you should remember the following: when laying wiring inside the walls, either metal cable channels or metal hoses are required. Sockets and lifts to switches must be done strictly vertically. Socket boxes and boxes should only be steel. Wires are bought with an additional plastic braid. Sockets and switches should be selected to withstand heat. If you decide to replace the wiring, we recommend that you contact a professional electrician. And you can save money by buying the necessary

Owners try to create most modern living spaces with perfectly aligned walls, floors and ceilings without excessive protrusions, and all electrical communications are hidden inside. building structures. This allows you to create a unique design, limits access to electrical wiring, but complicates its inspection and maintenance.

The technology of installation of hidden electrical wiring can be performed different ways, which are constantly being improved with any method of building construction. For each specific case, choose the best option that meets two basic requirements:

The cost of installation should also be taken into account, but it must be considered not at the time of laying the electrical wiring, but considered in conjunction with ensuring the possibility of long-term, safe operation, excluding the occurrence of malfunctions, emergencies, including the consequences of their elimination.

Hidden wiring diagram

Its presence is a mandatory attribute before starting electrical work. Design organizations create documentation at a professional level, take into account the rules for safe operation, the necessary protection, and the specific requests of the owner.

Self-drawing up a closed wiring diagram without proper experience can complicate the work, lead to unnecessary waste of material resources, create serious mistakes for which electricity punishes.

Experienced electricians can do the wiring diagram with their own hands. A separate one is devoted to this issue. We recommend that you read it carefully.

Requirements for wiring lines

In hidden wiring, the current-carrying cores of cables and wires must provide two functions:

1. current flow through the elements of the electrical circuit with minimal power loss and voltage drop;

2. reliable isolation of the formed chains between themselves and the ground loop, excluding the occurrence of short circuit currents and leakages.

The choice of wire for metal core

To solve the first task, trade provides the consumer with wires and cables with metal conductors from:

    aluminum;

    or copper.

The advantages of aluminum conductors include:

1. lighter weight;

2. reduced cost.

However, they have disadvantages:

    understated mechanical strength, providing a break after several bends, twists and tensions;

    increased plasticity of the wire in the clamped terminal. When it is heated from the current load, an additional deformation of the metal occurs due to the expansion of the contacting steel parts. After cooling, the steel returns to its original dimensions, while the aluminum remains in a reduced dimension. The contact weakens, and the resulting layer oxide film on aluminum further worsens electrical resistance at the junction, resulting in overheating, sparking, ignition, fire.

In a closed modern electrical wiring, even at rated loads, a high heating of the wires is created. The removal of heat from them to the external environment is limited. Ductile and weak aluminum in such conditions is prone to creating malfunctions, is prohibited.

We choose copper.

Dielectric properties of insulation

The outer sheath of current-carrying conductors may have one dielectric layer on the wires or several on the cables.

Trade provides cable products intended for transmission electrical energy different voltages from low-current circuits of several tens of volts to high values, measured in kilovolts.

In a household network, it is sufficient to use conductors with insulation that can withstand 0.4 kV. They cope well with the loads arising from short-term emergencies associated with overvoltages in the supply circuit, which are eliminated by appropriate protections.

However, when choosing a cable, you should pay attention to its fire-fighting qualities. In a closed version, the wiring can be subjected to high temperature loads. It must have non-combustible properties.

This parameter is indicated in the marking with the symbols "ng", for example, cable VVGng 3x1.5. Simple insulation of conductors during overloads in the network can ignite, support combustion, and cause a fire.

About flat wires PUNP, APUNP


Cable products of this brand, deciphered as a flat wire with universal properties (the letter "A" denotes aluminum inside the conductive core, not copper). Wires PUNP have long been a household name.

They are not issued state standards, which are the law, and according to local specifications"TU" of the manufacturer. The wire cross section indicated on the factory label can be reduced by up to 30%. Insulation layer of poor quality materials also underestimated.

Even with a double sheath of insulation, PUNP wires do not meet safety requirements and are the cause of numerous fires in household electrical wiring.

The use of wires of the brand PUNP and APUNP in household closed or open wiring creates increased risks for people's lives, safety of property.

Directions of concealed wiring highways

Among electricians, it has long been a rule to uniformly orient wires inside building structures with maximum observance of horizontal and vertical lines located at right angles. They correspond to the main directions of architectural structures.

This technique facilitates troubleshooting in closed electrical wiring, allows owners to better navigate the drilling of walls when installing fasteners for furniture and accessories.

Features of the installation of electrical wiring in panel buildings

In old houses from reinforced concrete panels the method of arranging wires horizontally and vertically was often violated in the past in order to save materials. In the slabs for walls and ceilings, during their casting, special pipeless voids and recesses were created for laying electrical mains. These channels were located at arbitrary, but typical angles for the entire series of buildings.

It is not required to mark the places for installing electrical appliances and laying cables with this method. At the joints of building structures, recesses were created for connecting electrical wires. At one of the wall panels, niches were prepared for accommodating an apartment electrical panel and low-current circuits.

You can familiarize yourself with a similar arrangement of cable routes in the construction technical documentation or clarify the passage of routes from neighbors or maintenance electricians.

When pulling wires in such channels, check cross section their free space by stretching the caliber, and the lack of cutting edges that can damage the outer insulation when the cable is inserted.

The force of tightening the wires into the prepared cavities is limited to 20 N per 1 sq. mm of the total cross section of the area of ​​the conductors used. When the free diameter of the channel is 20 mm, then it is permissible to place 5 wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm square, and for 25 - 8.

Features of the installation of electrical wiring in buildings made of building blocks and bricks

Concealed installation is associated with the implementation of a large amount of dirty, dusty work on the processing of wall material and building structures. It is best to do it before fine finish premises.

Work begins with marking according to the design scheme and the execution of electrical points - places where cables are switched with wires and sockets, switches, lighting, junction boxes, shields and other electrical equipment.

Then all electrical points, starting from the inlet or apartment shield, are marked with lines for laying cables between electrical points. According to the markup, recesses are created in building structures.

For indoor installation in a plastered wall, the cable can be placed inside the tie joints, under a layer of plaster or in.

When chasing, pay attention to the thickness of the wall and the required depth of its processing. It is impossible to go beyond the permissible limits. Otherwise, there is a weakening of building structures, which can cause the collapse of the supporting element.

It must be clearly understood that the gating of power load-bearing structures and ceiling tiles are not allowed, prohibited.

The cable can be placed:

1. into a pipe or corrugated sleeve, which is puttied directly into the strobe;

2. or mount without it.

In the first case, it is possible to quickly extract the cable damaged in this section from the corrugation and replace it with a new piece. In the second variant, a non-separable connection is formed, which requires dirty work during repairs.

However, when right choice cable with additional sheath protection against mechanical damage and the exclusion of the modes of its emergency operation, the second method is economically justified. It is most often used in practice.

But, in this case, first make a local fixation of the cable inside the strobe, for example, with gypsum or alabaster, and then perform the final electrical installation schemes, check the quality of its work. After eliminating the errors that have arisen, the plastering of the cut line is completed.

Hidden wiring on plasterboard partitions

Plasterboard sheets are used to level walls, divide rooms into zones, create suspended ceilings and multi-level structures. They install sockets, switches, light sources.

The technology of mounting wires and cables in this situation is less laborious. Strobes are not necessary. All communications are hidden behind the sheet. At the same time, attention is paid to the exclusion of damage to the outer layer of insulation during installation on reinforced metal structures for fixing drywall. Otherwise, leakage currents and a dangerous phase potential may occur on the mounting device.

The best protection option is to put the wires inside corrugated pipe, mounted on metal profiles and protecting the outer insulation layer.

Hidden wiring in wooden buildings

Now construction companies mass-produce houses from logs, glued and rounded timber. They are in demand due to natural eco-friendly materials, and the owners want to have all the conveniences of modern civilization and want to operate the electrical wiring installed in a hidden way.

In carrying out such a plan, three important conditions must be observed:

1. wood, even impregnated with special fire-fighting compounds, is a combustible material. If the electrical wiring is damaged, sparks or an arc occur, causing a high temperature, which the impregnation layer cannot withstand - a building fire is inevitable;

2. Wood products contain moisture in their structure, which dries out or accumulates during operation. Houses in the first few years after construction reduce their dimensions - they shrink;

3. Condensation occurs in the internal wire ducts at low temperatures.

Let's analyze them in more detail.

1. How to protect wood from fire in hidden electrical wiring

On this issue, paragraph 7.1.38 of the current seventh edition of the PUE clearly defines three important moments for our case:

1. carry out concealed electrical wiring exclusively inside metal pipes and ducts that have a localization ability to ignite;

2. use only flame retardant cables;

3. Realize the ability to replace damaged cables.

Features of cable protection from wood

The PUE rules unambiguously indicate the method of flush-mounted installation of electrical mains in environments capable of ignition, focusing on the fact that the protective cable fencing should prevent the development of a fire and localize it.

The fact is that the wiring can be operated with overload when protective devices have yet to eradicate it. In this case, the insulation undergoes small but irreversible processes, gradually deteriorating its dielectric properties.

As a result of its premature aging, a short circuit occurs over time, an electric arc is formed with a temperature of about five thousand degrees. It instantly burns through the outer shell. If the cable is located near wood, then the latter ignites.

When the highway is hidden inside wooden wall and a fire started, it is very difficult to put it out because the source of the fire is hidden, it is problematic to get to it with simple fire fighting equipment. The situation is aggravated by the accumulation of dry wood dust, which, in the event of a fire, ignites with an explosion along the entire length of the highway. When the fire flared up well and broke out, it immediately covers a large part of the building.

Therefore, the cable must be protected from wood reliably. Since the corrugated sleeve from high temperature burns out, like thin-sheet pipes, then it makes no sense to use them.

On forums of electricians on this issue there are disputes. But, in the event of a short circuit, the cable fencing must withstand the temperature flash of the created electric arc, prevent the metal protection from burning out, and therefore ensure the tightness of the volume.

Then the influx fresh air to the place of ignition will not, and the fire of the electrical wiring will self-destruct due to the lack of oxygen, as an oxidizing agent for the combustion process.

It is important to focus on the fact that the metal channel with the cable must be reliably sealed from the surrounding air. Otherwise, self-extinguishing of the fire is excluded. For this purpose, individual pipes are interconnected in advance in one of two ways:

1. welding;

2. sealed threaded connection.

In the second case, it is necessary to provide electrical connection between the individual pipes. After all, the entire metal pipeline will still need to be connected to a protective grounding device in the potential equalization system to eliminate sparks or breakdown.

The cable entry into switchgears, junction boxes, sockets and switches is also sealed, and they are installed in a metal socket.

Flame retardant insulation features

Since the short-circuit current of an electric arc is of the same nature as that of welding, it is proposed to conduct a simple experiment with two pieces of cable with ordinary insulation and non-combustible: subject them to high temperatures.

As a result, you will see that in both cases the external protective covering will burn through. But in one case, the insulation will continue to burn, and in the other it will stop.

This will help to understand that the cable marked "ng" does not protect against burnout of the emergency short circuit current, but only does not aggravate the fire. Its insulation is destroyed and requires subsequent replacement.

Possibility to replace damaged cables

This requirement of the PUE also complicates the installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house. In the design of a metal pipe, it is necessary to provide hermetically sealed windows through which the faulty cable is removed and a new one is mounted.

Without the technical implementation of this possibility, a clear violation of the rules for the installation of electrical installations is created.

2. Taking measures to protect hidden electrical wiring from shrinkage of the building

A building made from timber natural humidity, capable of drying out and settling up to 15 ÷ 20 cm per floor in 3 years with its height of about three meters.

A thick-walled metal pipe mounted inside the wall will not change its dimensions. It will be affected by external mechanical loads of the contacting building materials.

To exclude pipe deformation, it will be necessary to introduce compensating devices into its design, which will eliminate vertical compression forces, prevent destruction of the sealing of internal cavities and violation of the integrity of the cable.

The technical implementation of this method in each specific case requires calculation and justification.

3. Taking measures to protect against the formation of condensate

Let's say that we have created a house from glued laminated timber, in which we want to preserve the natural color of natural wood and therefore, on the inside, we emphasize its natural look with various design techniques. Inside the walls, according to all the rules of the PUE, hidden electrical wiring was placed, placing it in sealed metal pipes, and even devices were provided to compensate for the shrinkage of the building.

If the house is located in a warm area where low temperatures excluded, then you can rest easy on this. When in winter the temperature outside drops to minus 25 degrees or lower, then in metal pipe condensation will begin to appear with the cable, caused by the temperature difference between the outer and inner sides of the walls.

Moisture from it will flow from top to bottom where sockets and switches are located. With an increase in the thermal difference, its amount will increase. When the temperature inside the pipe reaches minus, the accumulated water will turn into ice.

To prevent the formation of condensate, it will be necessary to apply a layer of thermal insulation on the outside and inside of the wall. How efficiently it will work remains a question, but the design plan for decorating the walls with natural wood trim will have to be broken.

It remains to consider the option of installing hidden wiring only in internal walls or consider other technical solutions, for example, placing it in the floor and raising it to a small height to the sockets.

As a result, it turns out that for a wooden house it is possible to carry out safely hidden electrical wiring only in compliance with all the requirements of the PUE. However, for this it will be necessary to provide for the issues of shrinkage of the building and prevent the formation of condensate in winter.

Violation of any of the above safety requirements, of course, will not immediately lead to a building fire. But the owner must clearly understand that the accident in wiring diagram may occur at any moment. Automatic protections prevent it not instantly, but with the minimum possible time delay. The break in the load current is often associated with the formation of an arc, the flame of which is not immediately extinguished.

Dried wood ignites quite easily from damage to electrical wiring. To live in a house built in violation of existing rules is to put yourself at risk, to repeat the path of those who have already experienced the consequences of a fire.

Installation of concealed electrical wiring in everyday life after it is done inside the house from any materials must be inspected and checked by electrical measurements before connecting to voltage:

    for compliance assembled circuit continuity of sections of mounted circuits;

    Between all phase and zero wires, as well as to the ground loop.

Without measurements it is possible short circuits and leakage currents, which will appear due to errors made immediately when the assembled circuit is turned on under load.

In the practice of electrical work wide use received hidden electrical wiring, carried out by APPVS and APV wires with their laying directly in the thickness of building structures: in gypsum, concrete partitions, under plaster, in voids and channels of ceilings and walls.

Hidden wiring of wires is performed, observing the following requirements: wires in thin-walled partitions up to 80 mm or under a layer of plaster are laid parallel to the architectural and construction lines; between horizontally laid wires and floor slabs, the distance should not exceed 150 mm; in building structures with a thickness of more than 80 mm, wires are laid along the shortest routes.

indoors brick buildings, as well as in large-block buildings with partitions made of small slabs, hidden wiring with flat wires is performed as follows: in brick and plastered walls - directly under a layer of plaster; in the walls of large concrete blocks - in the seams between the blocks, and individual sections in the grooves; in ceilings made of hollow-core slabs - in slab voids.

The installation of electrical wiring is started after the completion of construction work and work on laying a clean floor.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring is performed in a certain sequence.

First, mark the route of the electrical wiring, determine the location of the installation of junction boxes for switches and sockets, hooks for lamps. The markup begins with determining the places for installation of shields, lamps, switches and sockets according to the project.

Next, mark the wire routes. Flat wires are laid at a distance of 100 - 150 mm from the ceiling or 50 - 100 mm from a beam or cornice. Wires can be laid in the gap between the partition and the ceiling or beam. Lines to socket outlets they are laid at the height of their installation (800 or 300 mm from the floor) or in the corner between the partition and the top of the floor slab. Descents and ascents to switches, lamps are performed vertically.

When laying wires and cables in the channels of prefabricated building structures, it is not required to mark the routes and places for installing devices.

Before tightening the wires with a gauge, the suitability of the channels is checked. The diameter of the gauge must be at least 0.9 of the design diameter of the channel. Special attention pay for the presence of edema and sharp edges at the interface of the building elements of buildings.

Then the condition of the connecting niches of adjacent connecting panels is checked. The niche is made semicircular with a radius of 70 mm. the wires are pulled into the channels from the device to the boxes and niches. The tightening force should not exceed 20 N per 1 sq. mm of the total cross section of the cores. With a channel diameter of 20 mm, up to 5 wires can be tightened, with a 25 mm connection - up to 8 wires with a cross section of 205 mm square.

With a limited number of wires and a short length of channels, tightening is done manually, with a large number - using steel wire, previously drawn into the channel.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring is carried out at the construction stage or at the very beginning of repair, when there is only rough finish. This option is considered optimal, since it allows you to completely hide the wires from the eyes. However, the work requires effort for wall chasing and subsequent puttying. However, if there is a laying in the floor, then the scope of work is simplified. So, how to hide the wiring?

Stroke or not?

The average thickness of the plaster, in which any hidden wiring could be hidden, is 6-7 mm. In most cases, the standard finish will completely cope with camouflage. However, if it is planned that the thickness of the plaster layer will be only 3-4 mm, it would be more expedient to first plaster all the walls, and then make channels right size and cover them again after laying the wire.

An important point: before installation and immediately after it is completed, be sure to check the cable for integrity. For this, a probe lamp or a special indicator is used. Remember: repairing hidden electrical wiring in the event of an error will require much more effort than extra control over the process.

general description

Before starting to lay strobes, it is required to draw in advance the lines along which they will pass, and subsequently hidden electrical wiring will be laid.

In order for the lines to be strictly vertical or horizontal, a level is used. They should not be made too high or low, so as not to interfere with the subsequent installation of the floor or false ceiling. Experts recommend making a margin of 15 cm. The places for future fastenings are also noted, the recommended step is from 20 to 40 cm.

At the second stage, holes are cut for the boxes (a puncher is more often used), and connecting strobes are made with a grinder or a special wall chaser. It remains to make hatches in the boxes, the conductors are put into place and fixed. Further, the same is done with the cable between them. Upon completion, all installation boxes and cables are masked with plaster, and at the end of the work, switches and sockets are installed.

Shtroblenie

If laying the cable during rough finishing is not possible or the thickness of the plaster layer is insufficient, it becomes necessary to gouge. This term is understood as making a rectangular groove for the subsequent laying of hidden wiring.

Strobes are made using special tool wall chaser or an ordinary grinder. The first one is not so popular because of its high cost and rarity (that is, it is unlikely that it will be possible to take it from a neighbor), however, it allows you to cope with the task as quickly as possible and with the least labor costs. In the absence of a tool, a chisel and a hammer are used. However, this option is fraught with possible chips and damage to the plaster.

The parameters of the strobe depend on which conductors and how many are planned to be used in hidden wiring.

The depth should be chosen to hide the wire in the furrow with a margin. Most often the best option is 2, maximum 2.5 cm. The width is somewhat more complicated: it is necessary to ensure between separate wires distance of at least a few millimeters.

Before plastering the wall again, it is necessary to carefully clean the accumulated debris from the strobes, and also cover them with a primer. The junction boxes are the final work, so at first you should just leave the wires hanging. This is very important, since it is difficult to predict in advance at what depth the boxes will be installed.

Fasteners and installation

For brick and concrete walls, all experts recommend using a dowel-clamp or UW as a fastener. In common parlance, it is also often referred to as "uveshka". To work with 3x1.5 or 3x2.5 cords, you will need an attachment marked 5/10. To drill holes for fastening, a drill with a diameter of 6 mm is used. During installation, the dowel is wrapped around the cable and inserted into the hole, the antennae key in the system become a spacer, which is wedged in the strobe.

Separately, it should be noted cases when the cable needs to be rotated 90 degrees. This should be done carefully, ensuring a sufficient turning radius. The exact numbers can be found in technical specifications cable used.

Laying cables in pipes

For greater reliability, in some cases, hidden wiring is mounted in pipes made of PVC or corrugations. This method it is not used so often and is in demand only in rooms where temperature or humidity changes often occur: baths, buildings without heating, and the like.

There is practically no difference between the installation of conventional hidden electrical wiring in an apartment and installation in pipes. The key difference is that in the case of pipes, there are relaxations to the requirements, for example, cables are allowed to overlap. However, the strobes for them will have to be done much more. Pipes are fastened in the same way in the case of a small diameter or with brackets if the diameter exceeds 4 cm.

Fast setting plaster can also be used as an alternative fastener approach. It will help increase the reliability and fire safety of the system, but it is much more difficult to work with it. True, if desired, it will also be much easier to remove the cable from the pipe if necessary.

Place of laying - floor, partition, ceiling

Separately, it should be noted options when hidden wiring is mounted in floors, ceilings or partitions. For example, if we are talking about a suspended plasterboard ceiling with a metal frame, it will be much easier to hide the wiring, you don’t even need to ditch the walls - the conductors simply hide under the ceiling, and go down at the right points.

Also, junction boxes can be placed under drywall, but for them you will have to take care of embedding hatches opposite. Hatches are used to gain access to hidden wiring if necessary. Clamps or UW are used to fasten the lighting cables to the ceiling.

The best option: hidden electrical wiring is first hidden in pipes, and they are already mounted in the ceiling. This solution improves fire safety. drywall construction, installation is made by clips.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring under flooring produced in a similar way. The easiest way to install cables into the floor is if it is made of wood or gypsum fiber. In the case of a tree, holes are made in the logs, into which pipes are inserted, and a cable is laid along the nom. As an alternative, hidden wiring can also be arranged along the floor surface. First, the surface is leveled with expanded clay or a similar mixture, and a top coat is applied on top.

Some equip hidden electrical wiring in the apartment, hiding the wires in pipes, and then pouring them with cement. This should not be done, especially if it is planned that the solution layer above the pipe will be small.

An important point: if you decide to hide the wiring under the floor or ceiling covering, connections may only be made in specially designed boxes. Only in this way, in case it fails, it will be possible to get to it relatively quickly.

Often, hidden wiring is installed behind drywall and in partitions.

As practice shows, often non-specialists make a common mistake, they forget about protective shells.

In an attempt to get by with minimal effort, holes are made in the metal profile itself. Also, do not run wires through drywall before sewing it on. In both cases, the risk of damage to the insulation is high. Pulling out the conductor for repair becomes very problematic. This problem is solved in an elementary way. Before you pull the conductors through the holes, you should first dress them in pipes.

Working with lighting is much easier. The voids in the slabs play a key role here. They remain from the stage of installation of the floor. This solution It is also attractive in that it does not require any gating. However, this does not affect cable protection. It is enough to punch two holes: near the wall and at the location of the lamp. To pull the wire through the pipes, special probes made of hard wire are most often used.

It remains to note the case when the hidden wiring is mounted through the insulation in the walls. It is preferable to lay through mineral wool due to individual features material: it is lightweight, compresses perfectly and does not require any additional work. Many prefer foam, but it will have to cut additional channels for pipes.

Mounting box installation

There are some nuances here as well. It is worth starting with the fact that in rooms with concrete walls, it is recommended to use diamond-coated drill bits, since the more common models with a pobedit coating wear out quickly, and additional drills will have to be purchased. They can only be used in houses with finblock walls. Tellingly, when working with finblocks, it is forbidden to use diamond-coated crowns for the same reasons.

Before starting milling, a hole with a diameter equal to the drill is made in the center of the installation, due to which there will be much less difficulties during operation. Experts recommend choosing boxes with a diameter of 6-7 cm, this will be enough for 6 cores. If you plan to connect several outlets in a row, the place for them is leveled.

Wire quality

It is worth remembering that the reliability of hidden, and indeed any, wiring, not least depends on the quality of the wire. Today on the market you can find a considerable range of conductors. Their main parameters are as follows:

  • the cross-sectional diameter of the core can be from 800 to 0.75 mm;
  • core material (most often copper, aluminum or their alloy);
  • the number of cores up to 37;
  • wire sheath yarn, rubber, paper, plastic (more protected wires have two types of insulation at once).

For wiring at home, they use cables marked NUM and VVG, as well as wires ShVVP, PUNP and a number of others. It is worth briefly talking about the main features.

VVG is a cable without armor, the cores of which are copper, and the insulation is vinyl. There are several varieties on the market with additional markings: VVG NG has an increased fire safety, VVG Z has additional insulation, etc.

NUM - high-strength cable for organizing hidden wiring. Poorly suited for, as the outer shell has poor resistance to sunlight.

PVS - connecting wire for any type of work.

PBGPP and PBPP - wires for laying lighting lines. They differ in the presence of an additional flexible core.

SHVPP - copper wire increased flexibility.

In general, making hidden wiring at home with your own hands is a difficult task, but quite accessible even to a non-specialist. The main thing here is to clearly observe the features of the technology and the nuances described above, and then high-quality wiring will be able to please for many years.