The moisture content of the timber: how important it is and how to determine it, how to choose a high-quality timber for building a house. Construction of a wooden house: which timber to choose Which timber is the best

Building timber of natural moisture

Country houses, baths and not expensive houses for permanent residence profitable to build from freshly sawn timber natural moisture.

Such timber is much cheaper than profiled or glued beams. Assembling the walls of the house from construction timber it is quite simple and, if certain rules are followed, it allows you to build a reliable and durable house.

The figure below shows a variant of the non-recessed strip foundation, combined with a plinth, for one-storey house with an attic and with timber walls.

Two options for arranging a strip foundation for a one-story house from a bar: a - a shallow foundation for load-bearing wall; b - not buried foundation for the load-bearing wall; c - shallow foundation for self-supporting wall... 1 - foundation tape; 2 - vent hole; 3 - sand pillow; 4 - a layer of crushed stone, upper and lower 5-10 cm; 5 - backfilling; 6 - vertical filling of the construction site; 7 - vertical dumping of slopes around the not buried foundation; 8 - bottom and top waterproofing of the basement.

Tape monolithic foundation- the basement shown in the figure is designed for building a house on weak peat soils of the "former swamp", with high level groundwater.

The base tape made of concrete grade B25 is reinforced in the lower and upper levels three longitudinal bars of the main reinforcement class A-III, diameter 12 mm... The size of the concrete cover for reinforcement in foundations - 50 mm.

To increase the bearing capacity of the soil, reduce the degree of its heaving, as well as for drainage surface waters from the house, dumping of soil is carried out within the boundaries of the foundation, plus outside at least 1.5 meters, pos. 6 on the image. Dumping is done with non-heaving sandy soil.

For soils with a higher bearing capacity, the width of the foundation base can be reduced to 500 - 350 mm.

Sand pillow pos. 3, laid in layers of 100 mm... per layer rammed into natural soil washed crushed stone pos. 4. Each layer of sand under the sole of the foundation is carefully rammed.

On the sand pillow a layer of crushed stone is again laid and rammed under the base of the foundation, item 4. The compacted crushed stone is spilled with heated bitumen, which, after hardening, creates a waterproofing film under the foot of the foundation. The bituminous film prevents the cement laitance from leaving the sand when the foundation is poured, and subsequently does not let water through the capillaries of the concrete foundation tape.

The side surfaces of the foundation in contact with the ground are coated with twice heated bituminous mastic... The surface of the concrete is primed before applying the mastic.

More detailed information about device various designs For shallow foundations, see the links above.

A house with a grillage on piles with a basement overlap is more expensive, more difficult to build and operate than a house on a shallow or not buried foundation p.

Traditionally wooden house done with a basement floor and a cold subfloor - they leave a space between the ground and the floor of the lower floor.

The emergence of new thermal insulation materials allows you to build a wooden house without a basement with cheaper, warmer and more durable floors on the ground:

To find out how to make such a floor in a house from a bar, click on the picture

Bottom trim of walls from a bar

Bars bottom strapping along the contour of the walls, they are laid on the basement tape through a layer of waterproofing. The surface of the base is coated with bitumen mastic, on which a layer of waterproofing is laid.

Outside, the dimensions of the lower strapping are recommended to be made less than the dimensions of the foundation by 50-70 mm... from each side. Sheathing bars are supported on the outer ledge of the foundation, and the joint between and the strapping is closed with a metal sheet - an ebb. In addition, if the walls hang strongly from the foundation, then it looks ugly.

The joint of the lower trim and the base is closed with a metal sheen. Ebb sheets are fixed on the strapping beam with self-tapping screws. Wall cladding is performed over the ebb.

It is recommended that the bars of the lower strapping and wooden parts of the basement overlap be planed and treated with a protective antiseptic. The bio-protective compound must be designed for the treatment of raw wood. Sliced ​​and impregnated wood does not rot longer.

Damp wood should not be coated with oil or bitumen based compounds. The depth of impregnation with such compounds will be small, and the waterproof film on the surface of the timber will preserve moisture inside the wood.

Biosecurity is effective only for the first few years after application, protecting the wood during the drying period.

To protect the harness bars from moisture for a long time, it is recommended under the bars, on the waterproofing of the basement, lay a gasket along the entire length of dry antiseptic board wrapped in roofing felt.

Modern advanced builders do this gasket between the rail and the base made of extruded polystyrene foam(penoplex, etc.) 40 mm.

The gasket protects the beams from moisture that can accumulate on the surface of the base / plinth waterproofing as a result of vapor condensation or soaking. By changing the thickness of the spacer, you can align the harness bars to the horizon.

The bars of the lower strapping are interconnected with construction brackets or galvanized steel plates.

After assembling and checking the diagonals (rectangularity) of the strapping frame, its position on the foundation strip is marked with paint - marks are applied to the timber and waterproofing. This is necessary to control the position of the frame during the installation of the walls.

It is not recommended to fasten the harness beams to the foundation. It should be remembered that during the drying process, the dimensions of the timber decrease, and the dimensions of the foundation remain constant. It is possible to install temporary fasteners that fix the position of the tie frame to the foundation only for the period of wall installation.

Basement ceiling of a wooden house from a bar

For the device of a traditional basement overlap, the structural scheme "beams - logs" is most often used.

Beams from a bar or boards on an edge better to lay on the ledge of the base... Such a ceiling design, when the beams are weakly connected to the strapping beams, provides better safety and ease of replacement of wooden parts in the basement of the house. Moisture from the beams is not transferred to the strapping beam, and vice versa. If necessary a floor beam or a strapping beam can be relatively easy to replace.

Bars - logs are fixed from above across the beams. Insulation is laid in the intervals between the beams and between the logs. Slabs or subfloor boards are laid on the logs.

This overlap design allows:

• Arrange the logs with a step that is convenient for laying sub-floor slabs.
• Get a rigid structure and a total floor height of at least 200 mm. using cheaper lumber with a smaller cross-section. Such a ceiling height is necessary for laying insulation plates of the required thickness in the gaps between the beams and logs.

The construction of the basement floor only on beams, without logs, is used when using thick planks as a subfloor - 40 mm. and more, and beams with a height of 200 mm.

Beams should be laid so that between their ends and strapping was ventilation gap (2 cm) ... This is done using spacers, which are removed after attaching the beams with brackets or steel linings (see Fig., Node B). The end of the beam must rest on the plinth for a length of at least 120 mm.

The technology for installing beams is simple. First, the extreme beams are mounted and aligned in the horizontal plane. After that, a board is placed on the edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually monitored visually, and, if necessary, a level is applied. A temporary technological flooring made of boards is laid on the beams.

On the base, the ends of the beams are laid in the same way as the strapping beam, through a layer of waterproofing and leveling gaskets.

Before installing the basement floor, the space under the floor is thoroughly cleaned of wood residues and other debris that can rot. The surface of the earth under the floor is covered with sandy soil with a layer thickness of 10 cm ... and ram it down.

Over sand preparation the soil in the subfield is covered over the entire surface roll waterproofing based bituminous materials with careful gluing of panel joints. The waterproofing is wrapped on the basement walls and glued to them.

A modern solution that provides comfort and savings on heating costs is the device.

To find out how to make such a warm floor without concrete screed, click on the picture.

Double lining of walls from a bar

There is another version of the lower strapping device log house- double strapping. Design double strapping well shown in the video clip.

The idea behind the double strapping device is to the floor beams rested on the ledge of the lower beam, without a tie-in into the upper beam of the strapping.

The time will come, and, as mentioned above, such an independent laying of beams will make it quite easy to replace defective beams and strapping beams. In addition, the durability of the timber strapping parts is increased.

By building codes the ends of the beams must rest on bottom bar at a length of at least 100 mm. Therefore, it is recommended to choose the lower bar with a width of at least 200 mm.

Double strapping is beneficial to use in structures, when the width of the basement (grillage) does not allow the floor beams to rest on it.

In summer cottages log houses on piles or columnar foundations often a separate grillage is not made. The lower strapping beam is laid directly on the pile heads or foundation posts. In this design, the bottom beam of the double strapping actually serves as a grillage. In this case, the floor beams are often cut into the upper strapping beam. This is a cheaper and less durable option.

Three ways to connect the timber in the corners of the walls

When building houses or baths, the following three methods of joining the beams in the corners of the walls are most popular:

1. Floor-to-ceiling connection. At the ends of the beams, horizontal cuts are made in half the thickness and the ends are placed on top of each other. The parts in the connection must be fastened with construction brackets, galvanized steel plates or a dowel. The connection is easy to perform, but requires additional fastening of parts and "cold", because of the easily blown gaps.
2. The connection into a one-sided keyway is an analogue of the connection, which is traditionally used in log cabins made of round logs. The connection is "warm", strong, but difficult to implement in the conditions of the building site. Most often, in log cabins from a bar, it is used in the manufacture of parts in the factory.
3. The ligation with a root spine is the most common gusset bars. The profile of such a connection is easy enough to mark and cut out. The gaps in the thorn-groove lock are sealed by pushing the mezhventsovy insulation from above.

A floor-to-tree connection is commonly used in corners to secure the planks of a building's lower trim.

Connections of partitions from a bar to an outer wall

Timber connection inner wall- partitions with a crown outer wall type of groove - the thorn turns out to be "warm", since it does not have through joints outward. This connection is easy to make.

"Warm" connection of the beams of the partition and the outer wall. 1- the main bar; 2 - additional timber; 3 - partition bar

In every fourth crown of the log house, the partition beam is fastened to the wall beam with construction brackets, or galvanized steel linings.

The figure below shows the connection node in the crown of three beams at once - the outer wall, the bay window and the inner wall - the partition.

The connection of the timber in the crowns of the outer wall, bay window and inner wall - partitions

The connection of the beams in this unit is made using rectangular dowels, which are inserted into the grooves in the parts to be joined.

In one crown, the end of the outer wall beam adjoins the end of the bay window beam, and the end of the partition beam - to the wall beam. In the next crown, the ends of the outer wall and bay window beams adjoin different sides to the partition bar.

A bar for a house, a bath in your city

Steel perforated fasteners for timber

Wooden parts of a house from a bar are traditionally connected and fastened together with the help of inserts, cuts, spikes, grooves of various configurations, as well as steel construction brackets and nails.

V last years on the construction market perforated steel fasteners appeared, specially designed for joining wooden parts in construction.

When developing the designs and dimensions of the connectors, we took into account standard sizes wooden parts that are massively used in construction, as well as the loads that wooden parts usually withstand.

Steel perforated fasteners - support of a wooden beam.

For example, above in the article, it was repeatedly emphasized the need to fasten the floor beams to the strapping beams without notches, in order to ensure a simple replacement of the floor beams and not to weaken the strapping.

Application metal supports for attaching beams to the beams of the strapping allows you to easily solve this problem and in some cases to simplify the construction of the basement of the house.

The beam support is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 2.5 mm. with high strength indicators.

The metal part of the support must cover at least 2/3 of the beam height.

The dimensions of the "throat" of the steel support must correspond to the width of the beam, and the height of the support is chosen at least 2/3 of the beam height.

TO wooden parts the steel support is screwed on with self-tapping screws. The load-bearing capacity of the beam connector is equal to the sum of the load-carrying capacities of the screws with which the support is attached to the beam.

In order to use bearing capacity the connector is fully screwed into each hole in the steel support. If this is not necessary, then screws must be screwed into the beam into the upper and lower and then into every second hole. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the strapping beam into each hole of the row located closer to the beam.

The length of the self-tapping screws is chosen equal to half the width of the beam. The diameter of the screws should be slightly smaller holes in the steel support.

Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use "punched" nails. Regular nails with a smooth surface cannot be used.

The gap between the end of the beam and the strapping bar is allowed no more than 3 mm.

You can use perforated steel fasteners in other structures of a log house. For instance, construction brackets can be conveniently replaced with mounting plates or corners.

A wide variety of perforated steel fasteners are available for a wide variety of timber structures.

Admire the art of our ancestors who built without single nail, Of course you can. But taking an example from them and trying to repeat it now hardly makes sense.

Modern technologies make it possible to do a lot faster, more durable, and cheaper. For example, it is convenient to connect a beam, a beam along its length using such a gerbera connector.

A typical application for a gerbera beam connector is connection and splicing of beams, girders, rafters not on the support, but in the span, in the absence of bending and torque moments in the joint.

Connectors should be located from the support at a distance of 1/7 of the span L... Calculations show that at this distance from the support, the minimum bending and torque moments will act on the beam, purlin or rafter.

Always use a pair of connectors for each connection. The height of the connector must be equal to the height of the beam. Gerbera connectors are made of galvanized steel, thickness 2 mm.

More articles on this topic:

Despite the popularity of stone, many developers prefer to build cottages from wood. The market offers many wall materials intended for the construction wooden house... We have already told our readers about. In this article we will try to determine which is preferable: dry profiled timber or natural moisture.

It would seem that the answer is obvious, everyone wants to save money, and therefore it is better to choose the usual one, or, as it is also called, "furry". But the construction site does not tolerate fuss and does not allow negligence. Before making the final choice, you need to understand the key characteristics of these materials and understand what their advantages and disadvantages are.

Natural moisture bar

A regular bar is obtained by processing a solid log. Ready product has a rectangular or square section. Ease of manufacture affects its low price and popularity.

However, it has a number of disadvantages.

In its production, wood of natural moisture is used. In accordance with GOST 8242-88, dry timber is a tree whose moisture content does not exceed 18-20%. Wood with a moisture content of more than 20% is a timber with natural moisture.

This material begins to deform when it dries. It can be twisted by a "helicopter", cracks can appear. built of it takes a long time to sit down.

Shrinkage of the walls reaches 5%. It is possible to decorate a house built from such material only after it has settled for 6-12 months.

The purchased material must be stored in stacks, ensuring free air circulation between the beams, for which an inner layer of boards with a thickness of 2-3 cm is laid between them.

It is also necessary to provide protection from rain and direct sunlight.

Some developers are trying to "get around" a number of the main negative characteristics of the material.

renat322 user FORUMHOUSE

I heard that if you take a regular one, with a section of 150x200 mm, and lay it with its wide side along the horizon, then it will twist and tear less.

Indeed, it cracks less, but if we compare the first house built from a bar of 200x200 mm and a house made of 150x200 mm material, then with the same height of buildings, a cottage built from a tree of a smaller section will shrink more (since you have to lay large quantity rows).

A timber of natural moisture, if stored improperly, can begin to rot. Its geometry is far from ideal, so a house built from this material requires caulking. If this is not done (and the house will have to be caulked more than once), the wind will blow through the walls. In winter, the owners of such a cottage will actually heat the street.

Before starting the construction of a log house, it is necessary to decide on the purpose of this building: a summer residence or permanent residence.

veresov user FORUMHOUSE

In my opinion, if a house is being built for permanent residence, then you can take 150x150 mm, and then insulate it.

If additional insulation is not provided, then for a house for permanent residence (depending on the region of residence) material is taken with a size of at least 200x200 mm. If less, then the house will be cold.

The walls of a house built from ordinary timber, due to irregularities and roughness need additional finishing. This leads to additional costs.

• Low price, especially in winter period time;
• General availability;
• Easy to assemble at home - enough carpentry skills.

• The need for repeated caulking of the walls leads to an increase in the construction estimate;
• The need for additional finishing;
• When dry, it can greatly change its geometry, which will lead to deformation of the walls.

Dry profiled timber

The profiled timber has complex shape section. The front sides are smooth and well finished. Upper and Bottom part(when viewed from the end, the so-called working side), has a selection: "tongue-groove" or "comb".

Thanks to this profile, a greater tightness of the connection is ensured, and the degree of wall blowing is reduced. In most cases, a house made of profiled timber does not need additional finishing. It is enough just to paint the walls to emphasize the texture of the tree.

When using a thorn-groove connection, a mezhventsovy insulation is laid between the elements. Even if, during drying, the groove bar will lead a little, then such a connection will prevent the walls from blowing.

The peculiarities of the comb connection are that the teeth fit exactly to each other. Therefore, there is no need to use mezhventsovy insulation... If poorly dried building material was used during the construction of the house, when it dries, it can change its geometry, which will significantly reduce the reliability of such a connection.

Dry profiled timber has an important advantage over the usual one: it lies in the fact that before processing on the machine, this type of material is dried and defective products that have changed their geometry or have begun to rot are rejected.

Thus, it takes more than quality material.

Drying takes place either in a special drying chamber, or naturally, when the material is stacked in ventilated piles and stored under a canopy to protect it from rain. In the presence of a chamber drying, it is dried in chambers equipped with air heaters. Thanks to the automation of the process, the chamber is supported optimal mode drying. It depends on the size of the timber, the type of wood and its initial moisture level.

Therefore, dry profiled timber deforms less than natural moisture. Such material retains its geometric dimensions better, cracks less and is less prone to mold.

What to choose: profiled timber of natural moisture or dry

There is also a profiled timber of natural moisture. It occupies an intermediate position between regular and well-dried profiled. The main difference from the usual (except for the profile) is natural drying until its moisture content reaches 22% before processing on the machine. Also, material with obvious defects is rejected: cracks, "screw", etc.

The moisture content of dry profiled timber is in the range from 12 to 20%. The shrinkage of the walls made of it is two to three percent.

All the advantages of such lumber can be nullified if it is improperly transported and stored. Dry timber can quickly absorb moisture from the atmosphere. You can measure the moisture level with a wood moisture meter.

Patrikeevna user FORUMHOUSE

The question of which timber is best for the house is more relevant today than ever before. First of all, the number wooden buildings is increasing everywhere, and in addition, the assortment of lumber is also becoming more diversified. As a result, it is not surprising for a person who decides to buy building materials to make a mistake in their choice.

What is the timber

Let's try to figure out what kind of timber is better to build a house for all-season living. Wooden beams is a long beams with a rectangular shape cross section.

The standard length of the material is 6 or 9 meters with a thickness of 100 to 300 mm.

Such standard sizes are considered optimal for construction. If there is a need for longer length, you can pay attention to Finnish lumber with a length of up to 12 meters.

According to the degree of processing, the timber is subdivided into the following modifications:

• edged or sawn timber (untreated);
• planed;
• polished;
• profiled.

All long sawn timber, in accordance with the manufacturing method, is divided into solid, glued and hollow.

Therefore, to the question that better home there is no definite answer from a bar or foam block, because the characteristics of lumber are diverse. Again, statistics on the construction of residential buildings made of wood clearly indicate that lumber in terms of thermal conductivity is not inferior to most traditional building materials.

Edged timber

Picked up best projects houses from a bar and are looking for an inexpensive, but high-quality material for their implementation? In this case, you will probably be interested in the classic edged modification.

In fact, it is wood product, obtained in the process of sawing a tree trunk. Edges are sawn off from a solid log in the horizontal and vertical plane. The result is a square beam with four flat but rough sides.

As a rule, this type of lumber is sold with a natural moisture level. Therefore, during the acquisition process, it is advisable to examine the product for the presence of distortions from improper storage.

In the photo - edged timber

The range of standard sizes includes cross-sections of 250 x 250, 150 x 200, 150 x 150, 100 x 150 and 100 x 100 mm.

Thus, you can pick up the material, as required by the instructions for the construction of a full-fledged cottage or the construction of auxiliary buildings.

One of the many disadvantages of this type of timber is the need to use inter-row seals based on jute cloth or natural moss. In the latter case, the insulated walls must be caulked with jute or hemp-linen twine. The fact is that the absence of additional sealing allows atmospheric precipitation, when it hits the walls, to seep into the cracks.

As a result, dampness and fungus may appear at the junction of the bars. An equally significant problem of such a material is deformation during the drying process.

Sliced ​​and sanded material

Not sure which timber is best for building a house? Pay attention to planed and sanded lumber. Such products are not only cut from all sides, but also planed or even sanded to a state of optimum smoothness.

Depending on the production technology, the beams can be processed from one, two or all sides. Moreover, the corners of the product can be chamfered. The advantages of such a bar are optimal appearance combined with ease of use when building a house. ...

Important: You need to be careful when choosing these lumber, since instead of polished timber, planed timber is often sold.

Profiled timber

Sometimes it is not easy to decide what size of timber is best for building a house, but it is equally important to decide on the shape of the cross-section. Profile lumber is the most progressive and technologically advanced category of timber. These lumber differ from others in the presence of a lock connection.

Due to this structural difference, the crown of one beam with maximum density enters the other. The design of the product is such that two sides are smooth - inner and outer. The top and bottom sides are equipped with fasteners.

Although the price is slightly higher than the cost of untreated edged beams, purchasing them is a profitable and justified investment.

Currently on the market there are sawn timber with two main types of profile: "German" grooved (multi-ridged) and "Finnish" with special grooves (crown cups). On the basis of two types of profiles, various manufacturers are developing new modifications corresponding to the peculiarities of a particular construction.

What is it made of

If you have selected the best projects wooden houses from a bar, it's time to decide on what raw materials the building material should be made of. In order for the built cottage to be reliable, durable and comfortable, it is advisable to use drier winter wood.

How to distinguish quality dry lumber from raw beams? If you decide to build a house with your own hands, use materials with light ends. Such wood is easy to saw, and there is no waviness on the longitudinal cuts.

Tip: The core of a tree harvested in winter has a high starch content. It is not so difficult to make sure of this, for this you need to drop iodine on the cut and the stain should turn blue.

In order not to subsequently wonder which house is better from a bar or foam blocks, pay attention to lateral surface each beam. The wood should, if possible, have an even cut line, be smooth, free of knots and bark residues.

Features of the Finnish timber

Do not decide which house is better brick or timber? In this case, pay attention to elite sawn timber made by Finnish technology.

Among the characteristic features of this material, we note the following:

• Annual rings in lamellas are directed towards the center of the section, that is, in opposite directions from each other.
• In the manufacture of these sawn timber, gluing is used, in the process of which fragments of wood of the same color are connected.
• The lamellas are spliced ​​vertically every 4-6 meters, due to which best view and the greatest strength of the finished product.
• Exceptionally thick lamellas are used in the manufacture. The question of what thickness the timber is best for building a house in this case is more relevant than ever. After all, this is done so that after gluing the wood does not lose its original breathability. In accordance with the technology, the wood is impregnated with glue to a depth of 2 cm. As a result of the use of thick lamellas, lumber is impregnated with glue not completely, but superficially.
• Glued laminated timber made abroad using Finnish technology costs twice as much as domestic counterparts.

Composite materials

Everywhere under construction best houses from a bar. Both traditional sawn timber and products made in accordance with the most advanced technologies are used as the main building material. In the last couple of years, hollow and packaged types of timber have appeared on the market.

Both the one and the other modification is a hollow wooden block from the inside. This structure consists of two boards of a certain thickness with end elements and lintels. The difference between the two modifications is that the hollow beam is used with an air space inside, while the batch modification is filled with insulation (based on foam glass or mineral wool).

The advantage of building materials with air gap is the low thermal conductivity and, as a result, the energy efficiency of the house. When it comes to modifications with filler, the question of which house is better from foam blocks or from a bar is generally inappropriate. According to the latest data, composite walls retain heat 1.5 times better than masonry from traditional building materials.

Another new development of the composite type is a thermal beam made of two boards with a polyurethane foam layer. The manufacturers of these materials claim that the degree of thermal conductivity of such walls with a thickness of 160 mm corresponds to the parameters of a glued solid bar with a width of 390 mm. In addition, the cost of the two types of buildings is the same.

Thus, the advantages of the technology are obvious. As for the shortcomings, in all likelihood they also exist, but since the statistics on the use of such materials are insignificant, it is too early to draw any conclusions.

Chamber drying

Do not know when is the best time to build a house from a bar? Yes, in fact, whenever you like, the main thing is that there is no precipitation, and that the material does not lose its original degree of moisture. Optimum humidity- this is the condition due to which the construction is carried out quickly without long-term shrinkage.

The best parameters of moisture content in construction wood are from 15 to 20%. Such parameters can be achieved by drying in special chambers. As a rule, the workpiece is dried immediately after the log is cut. Subsequently, dry wood is sanded, profiled, etc.

* information posted for informational purposes, to thank us, share the link to the page with your friends. You can send material of interest to our readers. We will be happy to answer all your questions and suggestions, as well as hear criticism and wishes at [email protected]

Determine the moisture content of wood, the choice of timber for building a house

Wooden buildings are back in fashion due to the fact that they are made of natural materials and even good for health. Houses, summer cottages, baths and gazebos are built from timber. Every builder who has had experience with wood knows how important it is to use a timber of a certain moisture content. Wood species such as pine or spruce have made available cheap houses from profiled timber of natural moisture. Profiled timber allows you to build houses with flat walls. It has a groove or profile that makes it easy to construction works and makes the building stronger. The amount of moisture in the timber will affect many indicators, consider the main ones.

• In too damp wood, harmful bacteria and mold grow, and decay processes begin.
• Timber structure high humidity over time, it gives in to shrinkage, therefore, its main structural elements can be deformed.
• Rapid drying of wood in the heat and sun leads to cracks, which can further increase in size.

This is not to say that completely dry wood is needed to build a house, because it will still absorb moisture from environment... Optimal and most inexpensive option can be considered a bar of natural moisture content of about 25 percent. In order to achieve suitable moisture values, the winter timber is folded in a special way until May. So, it undergoes natural drying, but the edges must be greased with linseed oil so that the process is gradual. Completing the material, we want to note that you can order a log house on the website http://srubstroy53.ru/, see what the specialists offer and how much their solutions cost.

Types of wood depending on moisture content:

• wet and freshly cut wood can contain up to 80% moisture;
• wood of natural moisture content - 18-25%;
• dry - 10-12%.

Wood felled in winter has a moisture content of about 20-30 percent, and harvested in summer about 70-80. To make the wood dry, a special chamber drying... According to the requirements of GOST, timber can be traded with a moisture content of no more than 20-22 percent. In the process of operation, cheap houses from a bar can gradually gain up to 30 percent benefit when it rains, or lose it in summer in a drought. In particularly humid areas, it is advised to use additional funds protection of wood from moisture and mold.

Moisture meter

In order to measure the moisture content of the wood, a moisture meter is used. It determines the amount of moisture per weight of dry wood. The moisture meter will not only help with the purchase of wood with the required moisture content, it will also be useful in the process of building from wood. It can be contact or non-contact. The contact moisture meter has needles that are pushed into the wood for analysis. The device should be able to set the wood species and other parameters for analysis.

What kind of timber is better to build a house

The choice depends on the amount of finances, the professionalism of the builders and the amount of available time. If the house is built from a bar of natural moisture, then experts advise to wait up to a year until the bar has passed a period of shrinkage. In addition, there is glued or profiled timber, which can also have different moisture indicators.

A house made of profiled timber does not need to be caulked, it absorbs less moisture, but the wood shrinkage period is the same as for a regular timber. Many are erecting country houses made of glued timber, such wood is much stronger, thanks to several glued layers. Glued laminated timber is more expensive than usual, most often it is also profiled. It is best to buy wood that is cut in the northern regions and harvested in winter.

Before building, read which timber is better for building a house - choose the type of timber, size and thickness, depending on the purpose of the future construction. Consider and compare the types of wooden building materials.

And we will also determine what thickness of the timber is suitable for the construction of a bathhouse, a summer residence and a house for permanent residence.

Types of wooden building materials on the modern market

Currently, there are several types of materials used in wood construction:

• glued laminated timber,
• profiled timber,
• non-profiled timber,
• calibrated log,
• rounded log,
• hewn log.

The advantages of timber buildings

Why a bar for building a house is better than a log:

• smooth and even surface of the walls,
• "Light" construction due to the lower weight of the timber,
• geometric accuracy of the entire structure,
• strong fastening of the bars to each other, which, as a result, prevents the penetration of cold and the formation of cracks,
• pleasant atmosphere and aesthetically pleasing appearance, both outside and inside the house.

The most popular competing wooden Construction Materials: glued beams and profiled beams. Both have their supporters and opponents.

Before starting construction, the customer must clearly understand which timber is best for building a house, and which timber is best used for a summer residence or a bath.

What type of timber to use for building a house

Profiled timber

The most popular material for low-rise wood construction... The beam is made of wood, usually conifers. It is a solid solid wood, processed to obtain a groove on a planer and milling machine. When making it, it is important to observe exact dimensions and correct geometric shape, otherwise the bars will not fit together and a gap will form. Therefore, the main requirement for obtaining high-quality profiled timber is high-precision equipment.

Glued laminated timber

Glued laminated timber is also often used for low-rise construction of private houses, summer cottages and baths. The beam is made of wood, usually conifers - spruce, cedar, larch, pine. The logs are sawn into planks (lamellas) and planed until they are perfectly smooth.

Which timber is better for building a house - glued or profiled

Let's compare the main characteristics of these types of timber.

Environmental friendliness

There is no equal to the profiled bar here. This is a natural material, absolutely harmless to people living in a house built from it. The environmental friendliness of laminated veneer lumber depends on the glue that was used for its production. The more harmless the glue (and over time it will evaporate a little anyway), the more expensive the glued timber is. When using low-quality glue, the boards can completely unstick over time.

Dimensions (edit)

The length of the profiled bar depends on the length source material(most often the length of the timber is 6 m.) The length of the glued timber can be up to 18 m.

Quality

The question is complex. At first, glued beams are stronger than profiled ones due to gluing and pressing, and besides they are drier (glued beams contain 11-14% moisture), profiled beams - up to 20%. Due to dryness, glued laminated timber gives very little shrinkage (about 1%). But over time, glued laminated timber is saturated with moisture from the environment, which brings it closer in properties to a dry profiled timber.

Well dried and past process shrinkage profiled timber does not rot, does not crack and can serve for more than a hundred years.

Price

The cost of laminated veneer lumber is much more expensive than profiled - 2-3 times, which is due to the peculiarities of the manufacture of materials. It happens that the price of laminated veneer lumber on the market is significantly underestimated, by 1.5-2 times, but then you need to pay attention to the quality of the material (what kind of glue was used, what kind of wood, how dry the material was, etc.).

Summary

Which timber is better for building a house - glued or profiled - everyone decides for himself, there is no universal answer. Briefly summarizing the features of each species:

• profiled timber- favorable price, environmental friendliness, less cracking or damage;
• glued laminated timber- high strength, reduced shrinkage time, external finishing can be dispensed with.

Remember the main thing: do not skimp on materials, because in the future this will affect the quality of the house.

What size and thickness of timber is best for building a house

The answer to the question of what size of timber is best suited for construction depends on the purpose of the building being erected. The thickness of the profiled bar can be different: in the final size, taking into account the profile, 90 mm, 190 mm.

The thinner the timber, the more it is in cubes, for example,

• timber 100 x 150 mm - 11 pieces in a cube;
• timber 150 x 150 mm - 7.5 pcs. cubed;
• timber 200 x 150 - 5.5 pieces per cube, so the final price of the house is lower for a thinner timber).

But the thicker the timber, the better the heat will be kept in the room.

For a bath, a bar with a section of 100 mm is enough.

Summer cottage house

A bar with a section of 100 mm - quite suitable option for the dacha economical home, in which the owners do not plan to live in the winter.

Winter house for permanent residence

• A bar with a section of 150 mm is ideal for a seasonal house, where they live in spring / summer / autumn. Such a house can be suitable for winter option, it all depends on the quantity and quality of the insulation and on how and with what the house will be heated.
• A bar with a section of 200 mm is made only for a specific order for houses of "premium" class. It keeps heat better, but many will consider its cost unreasonably high. This thickness allows it to withstand temperatures down to -25 ºС without any problems.

So for the construction of a house for permanent residence, choose a beam with a thickness of 150-200 mm. 150 mm is a more economical winter house and is suitable for middle lane, 200 mm - more expensive and suitable for northern regions.

The DomBanya company builds houses from profiled timber up to 200 mm thick. Contact the company's specialists, and they will advise what thickness of timber is best for building a house or a bath.