How to build a good bath from a bar. Do-it-yourself timber bath: how to build a good bath without a single nail

How to make a bathhouse with your own hands from a bar, because its construction is a serious and time-consuming business. In order not to get trapped, you should be well armed with the knowledge and advice of experienced builders.

Wooden bathhouse from a bar

First you need to decide on the choice of material from which the structure will be erected. You can build a bathhouse with your own hands from a bar. To date, this material has won the recognition of numerous fans and they speak flatteringly about it.

Why is the construction of a bath from a bar preferable? For a beginner in carpentry, the most acceptable option for building a bath with this material.

In addition to the low price, it has a number of undoubted advantages in relation to logs, both solid and rounded:

  • It is much easier to build from this material. If there is an assistant, there is no need to involve hired specialists, since the technology of logging a bath from a bar is simple and does not require carpentry skills.
  • During the construction of log baths, it is possible to purchase additional material as the buildings are erected - the construction process will not suffer from this. This is a big plus, as some material can be rejected during sorting and further preparation.
  • It will be much more economical to build a bathhouse from a bar, in contrast to building a log bathhouse or assembling ready-made log cabins. It is not recommended to purchase rounded log cabins of baths, since they are not durable and after several seasons of use they reveal a number of hidden defects.
  • The beam is also convenient in that it allows you to design complex structures. The sizes can be very different. Using different ways knitting of parts can be built not only small buildings, but also to carry out grandiose projects.
  • In terms of shrinkage, wooden baths from a bar give a significant head start to their counterparts from logs. It is only 5-10 cm. So you will not be surprised that the bathhouse has become half a meter lower.

How to choose a timber

When building a bath from a bar with your own hands, it is assumed that it will serve for a long time, and will not be a craft for several years. Therefore, the choice of raw materials for the material must be taken with all seriousness. If possible, raw materials should be prepared in winter and lie down for at least a year.

This is due to the following arguments:

  • The durability of wood directly depends on the concentration of resin and natural antiseptics. In the "winter" raw materials of such substances and elements are an order of magnitude higher than in the "summer".
  • Highly digestible organic matter in the raw materials collected in summer or autumn, there is more, so it is more vulnerable to various microorganisms that cause decay.
  • V tsarist Russia and before the beginning of the Second World War, the forest was harvested only in winter, it was left to lie down for at least one year, and only then was it sent for processing.

It should be noted that the preferred choice of pine raw materials for construction wooden bath from a bar due to the fact that it has less heat transfer compared to larch. As for the latter, in former times the ancestors used it instead of a foundation or laid out a crown from it in unheated buildings.

Sorting and sizing material

In order for a do-it-yourself sauna from a bar to stand for several decades and be used by children and grandchildren, you need to be scrupulous about sorting the material. It is necessary to carefully reject timber unsuitable for construction. Of course, there is nothing eternal in the Middle Kingdom, but following simple rules, you can increase the life of the structure as much as possible.

The following material should not be used:

  • Wood with deep cracks is excluded, as it is the first candidate for decay in the near future. This wood is best used for other purposes.
  • There are obvious signs of decay on the surface of the timber, even if they are small. Recognized visually. The presence of blue on the tree is a clear sign of the onset of rotting. You should not bring out the blue, this method only removes this external sign for a short time.
  • If the wood is attacked by insects, there are traces of the vital activity of various bugs: wormholes or holes leading into the tree - this means that the tree is infected, and it is unlikely that the pests will be able to lime.

Whoever has encountered woodworking knows that ideal material in this area is difficult to find. In most cases, either the production technology or storage conditions are violated - all this leaves its mark. If, when sorting the material, a curved specimen comes across, it should not be used in the building - no one needs the slots in the steam room.

End locks and notches

The connection of structural elements is the main thing in wooden buildings.

There are more than two hundred options for knitting parts, popularly called cuts and locks. Nodes are of the following types: end, corner T or L -shaped, cruciform.

  • End connection is called a connection in which the part is built up along its length. In this case, knitting is done with smooth overlays or serrated, using thorns. For additional rigidity, they are treated with glue, bolts, wedges or spikes.
  • T-knots are created when one end of the bar is connected to the middle of the other.
  • Cross connections are called connections of parts at oblique or right angles. Usually they use knits with a straight overlay in a half-tree and with a landing in one nest;
  • Corner joints are those joints in which knitting is carried out by the ends of two parts. The ends of the beams are processed with through and non-through spikes. They can also use a half-wood overlay.

There is no need to use complex knots for knitting bath parts. Suitable for her simple options easily performed with a chainsaw. To speed up and simplify the process of making cuttings for marking them, use templates.

Practical part - techniques and methods of execution

After the foundation is established, it must be prepared for waterproofing. To do this, apply to the surface waterproofing mastic such as bitumen. I put strips of roofing material or any other analogue of it. It is recommended to repeat this operation.

Now the most important thing begins - we are building a bath from a bar. We proceed to the installation of the crown - its first two rows will consist of a bar measuring 200x200. Subsequently, a bar 150x150 is used. In the details, cuts must be made in advance. The bottom row of the crown is pretreated with machine working or another antiseptic.

You only need to process the side of the timber, which will lie on the foundation. There is no need to fasten the bottom row to the foundation: the crown will be securely fixed under the weight of the constructed structure. In addition, if it is necessary to replace it in the future, this task will be easier to accomplish.

Insulation is laid on the first row of the crown. In hardware stores, special strips are sold for these purposes - tape jute. You can also use the materials used by our ancestors: tow and moss. Insulation is laid with an overlap so that it hangs down a little, no overlap should be made more than 10 cm - in the future, this excess will be used for caulking.

After laying the second row of the crown, it is necessary to secure it with metal pins or wooden pins. For this, bore holes are drilled for the diameter of the fastener. Drilling can be done both preliminarily and locally.

Subsequent rows are stacked and secured in a similar way. It is not necessary to fasten the two upper beams of the bath with pins or dowels, this is done only after the structure has shrunk.

Windows and doors - we make openings

Openings for windows and doors are made in two ways:

  • The first way provides for the installation of door and window frames during the construction of a log house. This method is more time consuming. The lumber is laid taking into account the size of the boxes. For the installation of door frames on the beams, cuts-thorns are made.
  • Second option provides for the implementation of openings after the construction of a log house. This method is more rational, since cutting is done after the frame shrinks. To execute this option, it is necessary to provide cuts in the timber, which facilitate sawing out door and window openings.

The choice of the method is individual, however, when using the first option, negative consequences are possible. When the bath shrinks, door and window frames can be skewed.

In the second option, the openings are made after the shrinkage of the log house for the next year and the distortions in this case are no longer terrible.

Caulking the cracks, only the erected building, is not required, since the frame must first shrink: settle for six months

After the log house of the bathhouse is ready, it is prepared for "wintering". To do this, thick boards are laid on it and roofing material, slate or other similar material is placed on them.

Thermal insulation of a wooden bath

After the frame has shrunk, the construction of the bath continues. The next step is to caulk the cracks.

This process requires a hammer and caulk (wood or metal). Work is carried out with dry material, if the tow is wet, then the work must be postponed to completely dry it. If tow or moss acts as a heater, they are twisted into a bundle and, with the help of a tool, they are pushed into the cracks between the bars. In the case of using tape jute, caulking is not necessary. Its ends are attached to the tree with a stapler.

The construction from the timber of the bath is almost completed, it remains only to raise the roof, install necessary equipment, complete the finishing and you can wash.

Do-it-yourself bath from a bar: construction, how to build, we build a log house of a bar-shaped wooden bath, how to make


Do-it-yourself bath from a bar: construction, how to build, we build a log house of a bar-shaped wooden bath, how to make

Do-it-yourself bath from a bar 100x100 or 150x150

Most people in construction give preference to exactly natural materials, namely the tree. Bar at all times was in great demand among connoisseurs of baths, it is safe for health, practical in collection and elegant. This article will help you understand the peculiarities of building a building from a profiled beam with your own hands, and will also tell you about some options for the construction of this structure.

How to choose the right timber

Before buying a tree for construction, you need to know certain features that you should pay attention to before purchasing material.

  • You need to carefully examine the tree. There should be no cracks on it, the timber can quickly deteriorate.
  • It is unnecessary to purchase material with dark spots. Spots often indicate a decay process.
  • It is worth abandoning logs with traces of a bark beetle, the presence of wormholes.
  • The low cost of the material may indicate its low quality.

High-quality material will allow you to build a beautiful structure and do it in a short time. When building, it is necessary to do everything in stages, not to rush so that the result meets all expectations.

How to prepare a bar yourself

Wood is a natural and expensive material, the price in Russia for a timber of size 150/150/6000 ranges from 7000 to 9000 rubles. You can prepare a log house yourself, mainly in winter.

After the cut, the tree should lie down for some time, one month is enough. After that, you need to carefully examine the trunks and select high-quality ones, without black spots (rot), traces of bark beetle.

Then we start cleaning the beams. The first step is to remove the bark, but not all of it. Leave about 15 cm of bark on both sides, this is necessary to prevent crackling. The workpieces must be folded on a hill so that the logs do not come into contact with the ground, at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other.

Before choosing a material, your attention should be paid to both deciduous trees and conifers. Logs from deciduous trees it is better to lay on the lower rows when building a bath, and higher are conifers - they have better thermal insulation.

How to draw up a project for a future bath

The technology of building a bath should begin with drawing up a project. The project will allow you to calculate to the smallest detail the characteristic nuances of this room.

Bath project example

An accurate plan allows you to save finances, thanks to the documentation, the owner will be able to accurately calculate the amount of all materials that he may need for construction.

When drawing up a project, consider the main nuances:

  • The number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time should be at least 4m 2 per person;
  • The location of the structure plays an important role, if there is a lake or river nearby, then it is better to design a bathhouse near the reservoir;
  • What materials, in addition to the timber itself, will you use for construction. They must be harmless (natural) for the body: stones for the steam room, moss, hemp for caulking logs.

Foundation construction

The foundation must have good resistance to various weather conditions (frost, snow, rain) and be durable. You can build a foundation on your own, without the help of professional builders.

The first step is to decide on the material of the foundation, the choice of which takes into account:

  • Level groundwater Location on;
  • Type of soil;
  • If possible, it is necessary to calculate as accurately as possible the load that will act on the foundation. This includes the weight of the building itself, the equipment inside the building, total weight people who can be in the steam room at the same time;
  • It is important to determine the depth of soil freezing in winter time of the year.

When building a bath, several types of foundations are often used:

Tape base

This type of foundation is classic version, it is used to build baths and other structures.

The strip foundation is:

The first is a monolith tape, it is located along the entire base of the perimeter of the future bath with bridges in the middle serving as a support for load-bearing walls building. The very process of this foundation is digging a trench and laying a deck. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay metal reinforcement.

A prefabricated strip foundation can be erected if there is an access road near the future bath. Mobile concrete blocks weigh quite a lot; cranes are used for this.

Foundation pillars

This foundation is often used in flooded areas, for the sake of economy - as it does not require the use of a large amount of materials.

To erect a foundation with pillars, it is necessary to dig at least 6 identical holes around the perimeter of the future structure. After it is poured concrete mortar mainly with admixtures of stone, thus the pillars are erected. The distance between the supports must be at least 1.5 meters.

The columnar foundation evenly distributes the weight of the structure and can support a building with multiple floors. Foundation posts prevent water ingress in case of flooding.

Pile foundation

Piles are often used in areas with a gentle slope.

If there is no time and opportunity to correct the slope on the site, then they come to the rescue screw piles... They can be installed without difficulty, for several men in just 3 days.

The screw pile looks like a rod, it is hollow and made of durable metal. Upper layer the rod is covered with a special anti-corrosion agent, so that when screwing in (when scratches are formed), corrosion does not occur.

Laying the first crowns

After the construction and complete drying of the foundation, you can start laying the first crowns, it is not difficult, the main thing is to use the building level.

The first step is to check the first log for evenness, for this you need to use a level (not by eye, as many do). A perfectly flat beam at the base is the key to the successful construction of the entire structure.

The first crown should be much thicker than all subsequent ones, all subsequent ones will be held on it. Experienced builders argue that the first crown should be with sections of 20/20 cm, and all the rest will be laid above it, with sections of 15/15 cm, no less.

It is necessary to lay the first crowns not on the foundation itself, but on pre-fixed wooden yards, 1.5 cm wide. This will prevent dampness and decay and increase the service life of its use.

Before folding a tree, you should know that you cannot do it tightly, over time it will shrink and swell a little. It is unnecessary to fix the lower bar - the pressure of all the higher rows provides it with a good fixation. If the lower frame of the bath needs to be replaced, then the disassembly of the entire structure is not required, and only the lower row needs to be removed.

Walling

If the beams for the walls have not been previously processed, then this should be done, for this the tree is covered with a special protective agent, prevents fire and protects against harmful insects. When choosing logs, it is worth giving preference to logs without knots, as this may require additional processing material.

Before assembling the walls, everyone should know - this can be done in two ways:

The laying of beams with the remainder involves the spacing of the ends of the logs behind horizontal surface... Without a trace, the log lies close to each other without protruding ends. Let's take a look at each step by step.

A bath without the remnants of protruding logs requires less costs than with the remainder; the second requires logs more than half a meter long than in the laying of the first method.

In construction practice, there are several ways to connect a log house with the remainder:

First option assumes a cut round bowl the upper log, after which the next transverse log is placed in it.

Second option similar to the first, only the bowl is carved on the bottom of the log.

The third way has significant differences from the previous two. In this case, rectangular grooves are made on both sides for about a quarter of the length.

It is necessary to lay insulation on the first row, often moss or tow is used. After laying the second row, fix it, it can be done in two ways, using metal pins, wooden dowels.

Having laid all the crowns, you should know that the last few are not fixed, as they will eventually give styling. Ceiling beams are laid on top.

Caulking cracks

The construction of a bath involves caulking the cracks. Experts say that this is not necessary, since wooden structures, especially baths, swell, smoothing out the cracks. If the walls are not caulked, then if for a long time do not use the steam room, then the logs in it dry up, thereby decreasing, so you still need to caulk the cracks.

The material for caulking cracks must have the following qualities:

  • Absorbs moisture well;
  • Keep warm and allow air to pass through;
  • Mold, insects should not form in it;
  • The material must perfectly tolerate fluctuations in temperature conditions;
  • It must be environmentally friendly.

Very often, materials such as linseed tow, marsh moss, tow, sphagnum or hemp hemp are used to caulk cracks in timber structures. All these materials absorb moisture well and protect the building from heat loss.

The roof for the steam room can be pitched or gable. For a bath from a bar 6x6 is often used gable roof, it perfectly suits the weather conditions of our country (under it you can place - an attic, an attic).

For a small steam room from a 6x3 bar, you can use pitched roof, before installing it, you need to think about insulation in advance. Insulation can be done in two ways, namely with the use of mineral wool or foam. Mineral wool is much more expensive and more difficult to install. Polyfoam is much cheaper, its installation will take much less time.

Installation of doors and windows

The installation of doors and window frames can be done in parallel with the erection of the walls or after. Do not forget during construction that the bathhouse will settle down over time, so installing windows in parallel with the construction can be very risky.

When the building is ready, you can start installing the window frames. If the places previously left under the windows turned out to be less than the frame itself, then they can be cut with a chainsaw.

The windows for the steam room use plastic or with wooden frames... As for the door, you should give preference to wood and during installation, remember that even a treated wood surface swells with increased moisture, and shrinks if insufficient.

There must be a small threshold under the door made of wood, which will prevent heat loss. The handle on the door from the side of the steam room must be wooden, you can get burned from the metal.

Construction of a structure from a bar by professionals of a construction company. What is better to do it yourself or hire professionals?

Natural shrinkage, interior work

Decorating a bath from a bar inside should be done as soon as the structure is seated. After laying the upper side beams, the structure should be covered with slate and left for at least six months without operation, preferably in winter.

After six months, the cover is removed, then covered with a permanent roof, windows, doors are installed and internal work is carried out.

Useful tips for building a bath without the help of specialists

If you do not have practice in construction, then in this case, preference should be given to small baths, measuring 3.5 / 3.5 meters, a family of 3-4 people can fit in it, while its equipment can consist of a dressing room, washing and of course a steam room.

If your private plot small, then in this case the bath can be combined with a utility room, very often the steam room is attached to the summer kitchen.

It is better to locate such a structure in the depths of the site, so that the neighbors do not interfere with your rest.

An inexperienced builder is better to give preference strip foundation if the soil allows it.

Walls, both inside and outside, do not require a special coating, in extreme cases, this can be done with varnish, an antiseptic

Many people think that the bath is an expensive pleasure, besides double bar, that is, a natural expensive material. Not everyone thinks that you can make the blanks yourself on your own, and then build the steam room itself, thereby getting a full-fledged Russian bath from a natural bar cheaply, which will delight you for many years.

How to build a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands: video, technology, step-by-step instruction


How to build a small bathhouse, for example, 100x100 or 150x150 with your own hands from a bar? Consider the entire process: from the choice of materials to the construction of walls

Construction of a bath from a bar: the advantages of the material and the stages of the construction of a log house

In this article we will look at the construction of a bath from a bar. Why this particular material? Because for many centuries the tree has perfectly proven its primacy in this matter. And the timber is the most convenient in construction, but let's take a closer look at its advantages:

Photo of a sauna made of timber

Advantages of the material

  1. Popularity. Thanks to this quality, it is easy and simple to find and, most importantly, choose a suitable project. The presence of many diagrams and drawings will greatly simplify the work with your own hands.

An example of a drawing of a sauna from a bar

  1. A light weight. This means that a strong foundation is not required, which makes it possible to significantly save money.
  2. Simplicity of installation work. This building material is easy to assemble. And unlike logs, it can be collected immediately on the basis, and not separately on a prepared site with subsequent transportation.
  3. High heat-saving qualities. A very important point in the functioning of the steam room, which should perfectly keep high fever... Otherwise, there will be very high costs for fuel materials.

Poor insulation will lead to high wood consumption

  1. Minimal shrinkage. That is, there will be practically no deformation changes under its own pressure.
  2. Affordable price. Although wood is expensive in itself, there is a very large price difference between products with different levels of processing and between different tree species. So you can always find something for your budget.
  3. Ecological cleanliness. The health benefits of the steam room will be even greater if you are surrounded by completely natural materials.

Harmony with nature

Due to the combination of all the qualities listed above, the construction of log baths is very popular among the owners of their own suburban areas.

Construction works

The construction of a bath from a bar does not begin with earthworks, and from sorting. Because hitting the structure not quality material can lead to the most undesirable consequences.

Sorting

To protect yourself from unpleasant surprises in the future, you should postpone products with the following signs:

  • Cracks of considerable depth. Such a bar can soon split completely.

Crack in wood

  • The presence of fungus, traces of decay and insect pests. The process that has begun will bring its work to the end.

Blue stains on wood

  • Deformations along the longitudinal axis. The timber must be flat and with a smooth surface. Otherwise, cracks will form in the masonry, which is absolutely unacceptable.

Advice: Immediately burn products affected by fungi or insects. Otherwise, there will be a threat of damage to the rest of the material. Deformed specimens can still be used in the base after careful processing.

Waterproofing

The instructions for installing logs on concrete suggests high-quality waterproofing to protect wood from moisture.

  • We apply the melted bitumen with a brush or roller to the cement surface.

Foundation coated with bituminous composition

  • On top, after the bitumen hardens, cover with a layer of roofing material.

Roofing material for waterproofing purposes

Preparing the timber

The most common and simple technology the construction of a bath from a bar consists in joining the products using the “paw” method, that is, without the protruding part from the back side.

Variants of different ways of joining timber

To successfully complete the work, templates must be created and the correct cutouts must be made on all wood products.

Pay extra attention to the details adjacent to the base. They should be treated with an antiseptic; to save money, you can use machine oil.

Erection of a log house

The construction of a bathhouse from a bar is a responsible business, especially the construction of a log house and proceeds as follows:

  1. We put on the surface of the foundation wooden slats... This will prevent the timber from joining the base and create the necessary ventilation holes... This will significantly extend the life of the material, protecting it from the spread of mold and decay processes.
  2. We mount the first crown:
  • We install the timber on the slats.
  • We carefully check its horizontal position. If there are even the slightest deviations, we correct them. Since the evenness and reliability of the rest of the structure depend on this element.
  • We connect the beams of the base together.
  • Blow out the space between the wood and the cement polyurethane foam.

Tip: fix with fasteners lower crown not worth it. For its stability, the weight of the entire building will be enough.

Lower rims of a wooden frame

  1. Create a layer of insulation on top of the crown.

The following materials are quite traditionally suitable for this:

Tow between products from a bar

Moss as insulation

In this case, tow and moss should be laid with a release on the sides of 10 cm, in order to further compactly tamp the material into the gaps between the beams. Jute, on the other hand, spreads flush with the width of the product and is nailed with staples. construction stapler or steel nails.

  1. Next, we install the beams with a section of 15 by 15 cm by analogy with the first ones. We fix them using pins or iron pins through the previously prepared unloading holes. Moreover, the more accurate the correspondence of the diameters of the holes with the diameters of the pins, the stronger the structure will be.
  2. We do not fasten the last upper rim. The construction of log baths implies the possibility of their removal for the arrangement of ceiling beams.

Finished wooden walls

Arrangement of door and window openings

Install window frames and door frames can be done in two ways:

In this case, you provide holes in the process of laying the timber, and then level the openings with a chainsaw. This construction technology is simpler and safer.

You can achieve the perfect result with a saw

  1. During the construction of a log house.

This is more time consuming and dangerous. The fact is that after the construction of the structure, it will certainly shrink. And with built-in window frames, the walls can lead.

Which will lead to the need for repairs immediately after completion construction works and will significantly increase the total cost of building a bath from a bar.

Final stage

After the construction of the entire building with a stele on top of the timber, forty-millimeter boards and cover with roofing material. The frame must remain in this state for at least six months in order to give the necessary shrinkage and acquire its final shape. After that, the installation of the floor and roofing works are carried out.

We build baths from a bar with our own hands

If you used moss or tow as a heater for the bath, then immediately after shrinkage, you should dig in all the walls. The process consists in driving the protruding edges of the insulating material into the gaps between the bars with the help of caulking.

Compaction of tow with caulk

When using jute, this process is not necessary. Since it creates a fairly dense layer even with a simple overlay.

Wood has always been the best building material for building a bathhouse. This is facilitated by its peculiarity to keep heat remarkably, ecological cleanliness, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.

To make the work easier, and the building to be more reliable, it is recommended to use a bar. Smooth smooth products correct forms easy to install. It is also easy to calculate how much it costs to build a bathhouse from a bar in advance when purchasing material.

Sauna from a bar, ready for use

Construction of a bath from a bar: construction technology, do-it-yourself video instructions for installation, photo


Construction of a bath from a bar: how much does it cost to build, construction technology, cost, do-it-yourself video instructions for installation, photo and price

Do-it-yourself technology for building a bath from a bar

Choosing a bar for building a bath

Sauna from profiled timber

As we have already said, the timber for the construction of a bath can be profiled and glued. Both the one and the other option of sawn timber has its own advantages and disadvantages, which we will now consider.

Profiled timber

Profiled timber is made from a log or a pre-prepared carriage. In the first case, the log is processed from four sides to required section using a special machine. The profiled bar, sawn out of the log, is of high quality and immediately prepared joints of the bar (usually this is a “thorn in the groove” joint). As for the manufacture of a bar from a gun carriage, the technology is practically the same, since the carriage is a sawn timber, in which two opposite edges are flat (they are cut out on a special machine).

It should be noted that very often summer residents for the construction of a bath do not use a rounded log or a bar, but a carriage that fits comfortably and has high strength properties.

As for the advantages of a profiled bar, they include:

  • Environmental friendliness of the material
  • Lower material cost, and, accordingly, lower costs of building a bath (saving about 25%)
  • Attractive appearance of the timber
  • Durability of the material (the treated timber will last more than 20 years)
  • High thermal insulation properties
  • Quick and easy installation of the bath (since the manufacturer immediately cuts special mounts timber by type of constructor)
  • Profiled beams do not need to be finished with decorative material
  • The timber is lightweight, which implies the construction of a light foundation (and this, again, saves time and money)

The disadvantage of profiled timber (in comparison with glued timber) is a longer shrinkage (about 6 months) and is more susceptible to the negative effect of atmospheric precipitation.

Glued laminated timber

Glued laminated timber for the construction of a bath is created in several stages. First the lamellas ( wooden planks) is checked for defects, which are immediately removed. After that, the lamellas are dried to a material moisture content of no more than 15%. Further, the material is glued together, pressed in special machines and fasteners are cut out in the finished glued beam.

Glued laminated timber can be of various qualities, which are represented by the homogeneity / heterogeneity of the wood, the presence of defects and the type of glue. The latter needs to be discussed in more detail, tk. glue for creating glued beams can be of different qualities. The durability and strength of the material will depend on the quality of the glue. If melamine or resorcinol glue was used when preparing the timber, it means that the timber will have high quality, which will affect its price. If polyurethane glue was used in the preparation of the timber, most likely the lumber during gluing had high humidity, therefore, after you build a bath, glued laminated timber may begin to delaminate.

It should also be noted this type of glue as "EPI". This adhesive is available in the form of a hardener and an adhesive, which have high adhesive properties and are increasingly used by laminated timber manufacturers.

The advantages of laminated veneer lumber are:

  • No material shrinkage
  • High material durability
  • Quick installation of the bath
  • Light weight and attractive appearance of the timber

The disadvantages of laminated veneer lumber are the higher price of the material and the presence on the market of many low-quality products.

We draw your attention to one significant drawback of both glued and ordinary profiled timber - it is impossible to make reconstruction from these materials in the bath (that is, to demolish the walls or carry out an add-on in the bath).

Construction of a bath from a bar

Construction of a bath from a bar

Do-it-yourself construction of a bath from a bar is a relatively simple process compared to construction brick bath or a bathhouse from a log house. It should be noted that the manufacturers of the timber can immediately provide you with the construction of a bathhouse by the specialists of their company for a fee. This is not to say that this is a bad option, because the bath will be built quickly, efficiently, and most importantly, according to your project.

We also draw your attention to the fact that the very process of erecting a bath from a bar with your own hands can take a lot of time. This is due to a 2-3 week solidification of the foundation, as well as shrinkage of the timber, after which it is allowed to decorate the interior of the bath with decorative materials.

The technology of building a bath from a bar with your own hands is not very convenient to provide in writing, because visual information is easier to perceive and remember. That is why we will provide you with a video tutorial below. self-erection do-it-yourself timber baths, and now we will tell you a few tips that will come in handy when building your own bath.

Tips for building a bath:

  1. Choose the right foundation. Although a bathhouse made of timber is a light construction that can be erected on a columnar or pile foundation, a lot depends on the properties of the soil. For example, if the soil on your site is heaving, then even a light bath will require the construction of a slab or strip foundation.
  2. If you decide to lay the timber yourself, do it with additional insulation of the inter-crown space using materials for caulking the log house (jute or linen).

Video lesson of building a bath from a bar

We present to your attention a visual video example of building a bath from a bar with your own hands:

That's all that I wanted to tell you about choosing a bar for a bath with your own hands, as well as about building a bath from this material.

We will help you switch to YOU, with landscape design personal plot, and construction and arrangement country house generally.

DIY construction of a bath from glued and profiled timber


Choosing a bar for building a bath with your own hands. How to build a bathhouse from a bar on your own? Video lesson on the construction of a bath from a bar.

What can be used to build a sauna at a summer cottage? There are enough materials for this today, ranging from natural wood to brickwork... You can hire a construction company that will build everything quickly and efficiently, but only a do-it-yourself timber bathhouse will constantly remind you of your successes.

A wooden blockhouse today is not only a tribute to fashion, but also a great way to spend time in the healing atmosphere of natural materials. Where else if not in a bath you will have the opportunity to completely relax from a working week and get a boost of energy from wood of various species.

Never worked as a carpenter and vaguely understand this business? It doesn't matter, assembling a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands will become for you a forgotten children's designer, where all the details are strictly marked in their places. You can really save on this without seeking help from specialists.

Material preparation

Before you assemble a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands, you must responsibly approach the acquisition of the necessary building materials. The durability of the bath-sauna directly depends on the quality of the wood, so there is no need to rush in this matter..

It's another matter when you buy a ready-made kit for a building, where each log is pre-inspected by a specialist. In this case, you should not hesitate, as there is a warranty period for the material.

Material selection

Have you decided to show independence? It doesn't matter either, but keep in mind that the wood for the bath must be prepared in the cold season. The very same processing of the cut down tree can be carried out no earlier than a month after it has been cut down. Only such a bar will not give you any trouble in the future.

If you are preparing it yourself, use the tips:

  • clean the bark from the trunk;
  • leave strips with bark 150 mm wide at both ends of the trunk, this will be a guarantee that it will not crack;
  • store finished logs in stacks or bundles at a distance of 200 mm from the ground;
  • leave a gap of 50-100 mm between the trunks.

Rejection

This stage will make it possible to operate the bath for a long time. You must remove damaged and bad logs, and select quality ones for work.

When doing this, pay attention to:

  1. Cracks. They should not be in prepared logs. Even the most insignificant ones can spoil the building, which, under the influence of natural causes, can lead to rotting wood.
  2. Light blue. On the surface of the timber, it can appear when rotting processes have begun inside, so it cannot be used to build a log house.

  1. Wormholes and bugs damage to wood. Such a bar is not used in the construction of a bath-sauna.

The bathhouse should be built from the most even and smooth timber. Otherwise, you will have problems when laying the crowns, which will significantly delay the construction time.

What do you say to do with the defective material? It is definitely not necessary to let it go on firewood. It can be used as rails, doorways and others small parts... Anything that really cannot be applied anywhere else must be burned so that the infection does not spread to high-quality wood.

What breeds can be used

Other features of the material, heat and waterproofing, are also important, so northern conifers are perfectly suited for the construction of a bath.

Foundation

A do-it-yourself bath from a bar can be built directly on the foundation, which is the advantage of such a project, in which case the work time is reduced. Most often, two common methods of building a foundation are used.

Tape

  1. Around the perimeter of the future bath, a trench is dug with a depth just below the freezing of layers in this area.
  2. A formwork is installed in it, leaving at least 500 mm above the ground for the basement. This way you can protect the lower rims from excess moisture.
  3. At the bottom of the trench, two layers are poured - sand and crushed stone, each 100 mm high.

  1. For the strength of the foundation, it must be reinforced.
  2. The formwork is poured with concrete mortar.

The laying of the first crowns of the log house begins after 3 weeks, when the concrete has completely hardened.

Columnar

  1. Dig holes around the perimeter of the future structure so deep that Bottom part brick pillar was below the freezing point of the soil in this place, and with a diameter of 0.25 m in increments of up to 2 m. They must be at all angles and where the walls intersect with each other.
  2. Make a concrete "pillow" at the bottom of the holes.

  1. If the pillars are poured out of concrete, they must be reinforced. The price of this base for a bath will be significantly lower than a tape base.

After installation, any type of foundation. Why use molten bitumen and roofing material. First, bitumen is poured onto the surface, then roofing material is laid, as soon as the bitumen hardens, repeat the operation.

Fastening crown

  1. Place thin wooden slats around the perimeter of the basement - their thickness is up to 15 mm, the installation pitch is 250-300 mm. Fill in the free space between them construction foam or insulation.

Tip: check the level of the waterproofing layer construction tools, calculation "by eye" is not allowed.

  1. Select the thickest beams for the first row, which will support the entire weight of the log house. It is desirable that their cross section is 200 mm by 200 mm, the rest of the crowns can be assembled from a bar with a cross section of 150x150 mm.
  2. Do not fasten the lower crown, which you place directly on the foundation, it will be held by the weight of the structure. It will also make it easier to replace it when needed, without disassembling the bath.

Advice: do not tightly assemble the log house, it will shrink and condense naturally.

  1. The bars of the lower rim are connected to each other by end cuts. If you purchased finished material, they fit exactly together. When making them yourself, make sure that they clearly match the template. Before joining the beams, the cuttings are laid with an inter-crown insulation.

Tip: the lower crown must be treated with an antiseptic on all sides.

Walls

Subsequent crowns are collected in the same way, fastening together with wooden dowels. They are a wooden stick with rounded edges. They are inserted in advance drilled holes in adjacent beams with a step of 1-1.5 m.

Lay each crown that does not rot and is not afraid of moisture. Do not fix the last two beams, as after the bath shrinks, they will need to be removed to install the ceiling beams.

Openings for windows and doors

Boxes for windows and doors are installed after the walls have been built. To do this, during the period of their construction, leave a small gap in the crowns where they will be located. Finally, cut out the openings with a chainsaw after the structure has shrunk.

Final stage

The assembled timber bathhouse with your own hands requires shrinkage, so it is necessary to properly prepare the frame for this procedure. Lay boards 40-50 mm thick on the upper beams and cover them with slate or roofing material.

After such "wintering", you can proceed to the final stage - installation of the roof and interior furnishings.

Conclusion

The proposed article told how to make a bath from a bar with your own hands, spending a minimum of effort. You learned how to choose a material, what to look for when rejecting, which bar is better and why.

Was also provided detailed instructions self-assembly of a log bath. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

The timber is one of the most practical and convenient materials traditionally used for the construction of a bath. It is easy to install, aesthetically pleasing, can be laid on a light foundation, almost does not shrink and does not need additional adjustment.

The timber is an excellent material for building a bath. It is easy to build, environmentally friendly and almost does not shrink.

The phased construction of a bath will allow you to thoroughly understand the features of working with this material and build an excellent steam room with your own hands.

Preparation for work

The construction of a bath from a bar is carried out using the following tools:

  • electric or chainsaws;
  • an ax and a hammer;
  • drills;
  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • corner;
  • jute;
  • screws and nails;
  • puncher;
  • screwdriver.

To build a bathhouse as quickly and easily as possible, and the building itself is as reliable as possible, you need to check the quality of building materials and sort them. Construction can only be done using the very the best bar, no flaws.

Material with the following defects must not be used:

  1. Deep cracks.
  2. Insect and fungal infections.
  3. With longitudinal axial deformations. For the construction of a bath, only a flat and even beam from all sides can be used. In the event that you do not have a sufficient amount of high-quality material, you can use a deformed timber, but when laying the crowns, it will need to be additionally adjusted.

For the construction of a bath, do not use beams with deep cracks.

To minimize losses building material even in the process of preparing for the construction of a bath, when choosing a supplier of timber, you need to pay special attention to even the smallest nuances. If characteristic cyanotic spots, the slightest signs of deformation are visible on the surface of the bar, then it is better to immediately refuse to buy such material.

One of the very important milestones the construction of a bath is the laying of waterproofing between the base of the building and the embedded beam. Cover the surface of the base / plinth with molten bitumen and then cover with roofing felt. Wait until the bitumen cools down, and apply another layer of bitumen on the roofing material, and on it - a layer of roofing material.

Regardless of which particular project was chosen, you need to pay special attention to the first crown. He is the most important. For its device, you should use a bar of the same length with a section of 20x20 cm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make connecting cuts of exactly the same size. Even the slightest error is unacceptable here. The protrusions of one bar should clearly fit into the grooves of the other.

The cuttings can be of any configuration. It depends on the type of connection used.

The simplest is the paw connection.

Select the cut shape and prepare the templates. On them you will need to mark all the bars and create cuts. The mortgage beam must be treated with an antiseptic. Special attention should be given to the area adjacent to the base of the bath. Used engine oil is perfect as an impregnation, which can most often be obtained without financial investment.

Next, you will need to prepare and properly process the reiki. The thickness of the slats should not exceed 1.5 cm. They will need to be made so much so that the entire foundation of the bath can be laid in width with a step of about 25-30 cm.

Back to the table of contents

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of a log house

The construction of a bath begins with laying the slats on the base. This is done in order to prevent contact of the material with the foundation, which will provide sufficient ventilation to protect the wood from mold and rot, which will significantly extend the life of the bath.

Lay the slats and proceed with the device of the first crown. Check it's horizontal building level... It is important to bring it to perfection. Connect the bars of the first crown. Fill the space between the foundation and the building material with foam. This will protect the timber from harmful environmental influences. It is not necessary to fix the starter ring on the base. Weight finished bath will provide the required stability.

Place the insulation over the crown. You can insulate with moss, jute or tow - these are the most budgetary options. Place tow or moss so that there is 10-12 cm of space behind the edges of the beams for further compaction. If using jute, do not leave a margin. Spread it over the surface and fix it with a construction stapler or nails.

Prepare a beam with a section of 15x15 cm for the remaining rims of the log house. Lay the crowns. Check them horizontally and fix with each other. The bars are fixed with metal pins. Dowels are also suitable. Make relief holes for fasteners. The diameters of the holes and pins must match each other, otherwise you can not count on a strong connection.

Insulate and process each wreath being arranged as you did with the first. Such processing will provide strength, reliability and good thermal insulation baths. It is not necessary to connect only the beams of the pair of the uppermost rims of the log house. In the future, they will need to be removed to install the ceiling beams.

Install window and door frames. They can be installed after completion or in the process of constructing a log house. The first option is more preferable. It is more convenient because in this case, you just need to saw through the connectors of the required dimensions using a chainsaw, you do not have to leave gaps between the beams during construction.

It is quite difficult to install boxes at the same time as a log house. It should be borne in mind that ready-made bath will still give some shrinkage. If the boxes are inserted, the uniformity may be disturbed. So it is better not to risk it and install the boxes after the completion of the construction of the bath.

During construction, most people prefer natural materials, namely wood. Bar at all times was in great demand among connoisseurs of baths, it is safe for health, practical in collection and elegant. This article will help you understand the peculiarities of building a building from a profiled beam with your own hands, and will also tell you about some options for the construction of this structure.

How to choose the right timber

Before buying a tree for construction, you need to know certain features that you should pay attention to before purchasing material.

  • You need to carefully examine the tree. There should be no cracks on it, the timber can quickly deteriorate.
  • It is unnecessary to purchase material with dark spots. Spots often indicate a decay process.
  • It is worth abandoning logs with traces of a bark beetle, the presence of wormholes.
  • The low cost of the material may indicate its low quality.

High-quality material will allow you to build a beautiful structure and do it in a short time. When building, it is necessary to do everything in stages, not to rush so that the result meets all expectations.

How to prepare a bar yourself

Wood is a natural and expensive material, the price in Russia for a timber of size 150/150/6000 ranges from 7000 to 9000 rubles. You can prepare a log house yourself, mainly in winter.

After the cut, the tree should lie down for some time, one month is enough. After that, you need to carefully examine the trunks and select high-quality ones, without black spots (rot), traces of bark beetle.

Then we start cleaning the beams. The first step is to remove the bark, but not all of it. Leave about 15 cm of bark on both sides, this is necessary to prevent crackling. The workpieces must be folded on a hill so that the logs do not come into contact with the ground, at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other.

Before choosing a material, your attention should be paid to both deciduous trees and conifers. It is better to lay logs from deciduous trees on the lower rows when building a bath, and above conifers - they have better thermal insulation.

A detailed report on the construction of a bathhouse from a log house with your own hands. It's simple.

How to draw up a project for a future bath

The technology of building a bath should begin with drawing up a project. The project will allow you to calculate to the smallest detail the characteristic nuances of this room.

Bath project example

An accurate plan allows you to save finances, thanks to the documentation, the owner will be able to accurately calculate the amount of all materials that he may need for construction.

In the title photo there is a small typical bath made of timber with an area of ​​6 * 4 sq. meters (turnkey price - 520 thousand rubles, felling - 300 thousand rubles)

When drawing up a project, consider the main nuances:

  • The number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time should be at least 4m 2 per person;
  • The location of the structure plays an important role, if there is a lake or river nearby, then it is better to design a bathhouse near the reservoir;
  • What materials, in addition to the timber itself, will you use for construction. They must be harmless (natural) for the body: stones for the steam room, moss, hemp for caulking logs.

Foundation construction

The foundation must have good resistance to various weather conditions (frost, snow, rain) and be durable. You can build a foundation on your own, without the help of professional builders.

The first step is to decide on the material of the foundation, the choice of which takes into account:

  • Groundwater level at the site;
  • Type of soil;
  • If possible, it is necessary to calculate as accurately as possible the load that will act on the foundation. This includes the weight of the building itself, the equipment inside the building, the total weight of people who can be in the steam room at the same time;
  • It is important to determine the depth of soil freezing in the winter season.

When building a bath, several types of foundations are often used:

  1. Tape base;
  2. Pillars;
  3. Pile foundation.

Tape base

This type of foundation is a classic option; it is used to build a bath and other structures.

The strip foundation is:

  • monolithic;
  • prefabricated.

The first one is a tape made of a monolith, it is located along the entire base of the perimeter of the future bath with bridges in the middle serving as a support for the load-bearing walls of the building. The very process of this foundation is digging a trench and laying a deck. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay metal reinforcement.

A prefabricated strip foundation can be erected if there is an access road near the future bath. Mobile ones weigh quite a lot, for this they use cranes.

Foundation pillars

This foundation is often used in flooded areas, for the sake of economy - as it does not require the use of a large amount of materials.

To erect a foundation with pillars, it is necessary to dig at least 6 identical holes around the perimeter of the future structure. After that, a concrete solution is poured mainly with admixtures of stone, thereby pillars are erected. The distance between the supports must be at least 1.5 meters.

The columnar foundation evenly distributes the weight of the structure and can support a building with multiple floors. Foundation posts prevent water ingress in case of flooding.

Pile foundation

Piles are often used in areas with a gentle slope.

If there is no time and opportunity to correct the slope on the site, then screw piles come to the rescue. They can be installed without difficulty, for several men in just 3 days.

The screw pile looks like a rod, it is hollow and made of durable metal. The upper layer of the rod is coated with a special anti-corrosion agent, so that when screwing in (when scratches are formed), corrosion does not occur.

Laying the first crowns

After the construction and complete drying of the foundation, you can start laying the first crowns, it is not difficult, the main thing is to use the building level.

The first step is to check the first log for evenness, for this you need to use a level (not by eye, as many do). A perfectly flat beam at the base is the key to the successful construction of the entire structure.

The first crown should be much thicker than all subsequent ones, all subsequent ones will be held on it. Experienced builders claim that the first crown should be with sections of 20/20 cm, and all the rest will be laid above it, with sections of 15/15 cm, no less.

It is necessary to lay the first crowns not on the foundation itself, but on pre-fixed wooden yards, 1.5 cm wide. This will prevent dampness and decay and increase the service life of its use.

Before folding a tree, you should know that you cannot do it tightly, over time it will shrink and swell a little. It is unnecessary to fix the lower bar - the pressure of all the higher rows provides it with a good fixation. If the lower frame of the bath needs to be replaced, then the disassembly of the entire structure is not required, and only the lower row needs to be removed.

This video will tell you more about the features of the construction of the walls of a wooden bath.

Walling

If the walls have not been previously processed, then this should be done, for this the tree is covered with a special protective agent, prevents fire and protects against harmful insects. When choosing logs, it is worthwhile to give preference to logs without knots, as this may require additional processing of the material.

Before assembling the walls, everyone should know - this can be done in two ways:

  1. With the remainder;
  2. No residue.

The laying of the beams with the remainder assumes the spacing of the ends of the logs beyond the horizontal surface. Without a trace, the log lies close to each other without protruding ends. Let's take a look at each step by step.

A bath without the remnants of protruding logs requires less costs than with the remainder; the second requires logs more than half a meter long than in the laying of the first method.

In construction practice, there are several ways to connect a log house with the remainder:

  1. Oblo;
  2. Okhlop;
  3. Okhryap.

First option involves cutting a round bowl of the upper log, after which the next transverse log is placed in it.

Second option similar to the first, only the bowl is carved on the bottom of the log.

The third way has significant differences from the previous two. In this case, rectangular grooves are made on both sides for about a quarter of the length.

It is necessary to lay insulation on the first row, often moss or tow is used. After laying the second row, fix it, it can be done in two ways, using metal pins, wooden dowels.

Having laid all the crowns, you should know that the last few are not fixed, as they will eventually give styling. Ceiling beams are laid on top.

Caulking cracks

The construction of a bath involves caulking the cracks. Experts say that this is not necessary, since wooden structures, especially baths, swell, smoothing out the cracks. If you do not caulk the walls, then if you do not use the steam room for a long time, then the logs in it dry up, thereby decreasing, so you still need to caulk the cracks.

The material for caulking cracks must have the following qualities:

  • Absorbs moisture well;
  • Keep warm and allow air to pass through;
  • Mold, insects should not form in it;
  • The material must perfectly tolerate fluctuations in temperature conditions;
  • It must be environmentally friendly.

Very often, materials such as linseed tow, marsh moss, tow, sphagnum or hemp hemp are used to caulk cracks in timber structures. All these materials absorb moisture well and protect the building from heat loss.

Roof

The roof for the steam room can be pitched or gable. For a 6x6 timber bath, a gable roof is often used, it perfectly suits the weather conditions of our country (under it you can place - an attic, an attic).

For a small steam room made of 6x3 timber, you can use a pitched roof; before installing it, you need to think about insulation in advance. Insulation can be done in two ways, namely with the use of mineral wool or foam. Mineral wool is much more expensive and more difficult to install. Polyfoam is much cheaper, its installation will take much less time.

Installation of doors and windows

The installation of doors and window frames can be done in parallel with the erection of the walls or after. Do not forget during construction that the bathhouse will settle down over time, so installing windows in parallel with the construction can be very risky.

When the building is ready, you can start installing the window frames. If the places previously left under the windows turned out to be less than the frame itself, then they can be cut with a chainsaw.

The windows for the steam room are made of plastic or with wooden frames. As for the door, you should give preference to wood and during installation, remember that even a treated wood surface swells with increased moisture, and shrinks if insufficient.

There must be a small threshold under the door made of wood, which will prevent heat loss. The handle on the door from the side of the steam room must be wooden, you can get burned from the metal.

Construction of a structure from a bar by professionals of a construction company. What is better to do it yourself or hire professionals?

Natural shrinkage, interior work

Decorating a bath from a bar inside should be done as soon as the structure is seated. After laying the upper side beams, the structure should be covered with slate and left for at least six months without operation, preferably in winter.

After six months, the cover is removed, then covered with a permanent roof, windows, doors are installed and internal work is carried out.

If you do not have practice in construction, then in this case, preference should be given to small baths, measuring 3.5 / 3.5 meters, a family of 3-4 people can fit in it, while its equipment can consist of a dressing room, washing and of course a steam room.

If your private area is small, then in this case the bathhouse can be combined with a utility room, very often the steam room is attached to the summer kitchen.

It is better to locate such a structure in the depths of the site, so that the neighbors do not interfere with your rest.

It is better for an inexperienced builder to give preference to a strip foundation, if the soil allows it.

Walls, both inside and outside, do not require a special coating, in extreme cases, this can be done with varnish, an antiseptic

Many people believe that a bath is an expensive pleasure, moreover, from a double bar, that is, a natural expensive material. Not everyone thinks that you can make the blanks yourself on your own, and then build the steam room itself, thereby getting a full-fledged Russian bath from a natural bar cheaply, which will delight you for many years.

Country cottage area, Vacation home or simply private house in the city, the need for hygiene is not at all canceled. Most often, the problem is solved by building an ordinary bathroom, which is a combination of a bathroom and a toilet. Nevertheless, for aesthetic reasons, the construction of baths is more correct, since they are also a good place to relax, and are also a tribute to traditions.

Peculiarities

A log bath is more popular than other options for objective reasons:

  • low thermal conductivity (reducing heating costs and accelerating room heating);
  • lightness of the structure, which does not require strong foundations and careful engineering preparation;
  • high construction speed;
  • ease of decoration;
  • accessibility for self-construction.

As for the section 150x150 mm, it is considered quite universal. and is suitable for use in middle lane RF, because such material does not create any problems there. It is important to take into account that in northern regions you need to use logs with a cross section of at least 20 cm or supplement narrow options mineral wool and other heaters.

Projects

For the construction of baths, you must use spruce and pine wood; cedar is also acceptable, but only in completely exceptional situations. The advantage of such materials is their saturation. essential oils, because when heated, the oil evaporates and makes the air in the room very pleasant and healthy.

It is better to design a 3x4 meter bath individually, because this significantly increases the aesthetics of the structure and allows you to form it as individual as possible. Finished project baths of 6x3 or 6x4 meters with a layout have another advantage - it was initially worked out in all details and turns out to be significantly cheaper than a custom-made analogue.

A bath from a bar of 150x150 mm with sides of 6x6 meters has an area of ​​36 squares, which makes it possible to make a comfortable and convenient terrace. On this site, you can always get together with loved ones and spend time with barbecue. If the dimensions of the bath are 4x4, or 4x6 meters, putting the main oven outside helps to save space. Then, in the drawing, you need to provide for its optimal connection with the internal space due to air ducts or water pipes.

When the space is even smaller - 4x4, 3x3, 3x2 meters - it is advisable to compensate for this disadvantage by arranging the attic. But even in larger baths, it can be useful, because it helps to more comfortably accommodate after being in the steam room, to relax for a while.

Calculation of the amount of materials

It is very important to take care that the timber does not have the slightest cracks, as they will inevitably provoke shrinkage. Blue spots are another serious defect, which is a sign of tree-gnawing insects.

It is not difficult to calculate the consumption of materials for an average bath made of 6x4 m timber. Shrinkage is often a significant problem as it varies depending on the size of the blocks, the climate and how well the crowns are insulated. In most cases, it is worth focusing on an indicator of 17 cubic meters. m of timber. First, the amount of materials that will be required for a single row (crown) is determined. Then the resulting parameter is multiplied by the total number of rows. See how many pieces are required in terms of 1 cubic meter. m, can be found in the table attached to a similar product.

As for costs, even with independent work, the foundation will cost at least 10 thousand rubles. When hiring performers, you should focus on the lowest rate of 25 thousand rubles. The purchase of materials for a 3x6 m bathhouse will require at least 50 thousand rubles for the walls and another 10-15 thousand for the roof. It is about the option with a roof made of metal tiles, which are not additionally insulated. The smallest payment for the purchase of the necessary communication products (without their installation) is 30 thousand rubles; in total, the lower threshold for the cost of construction cannot be less than 100 thousand rubles

How to do it yourself?

The construction of a bath with your own hands at the stage of construction of the foundation, walls and roof has almost no differences from the construction of wooden houses.

You will need to do:

  • a leisure room (furniture is placed there that can withstand significant humidity);
  • shower room (with a floor equipped with drain devices);
  • a steam room, complemented by a stove, is the main room in all saunas.

The foundation will have to withstand a relatively low load, so builders can safely choose both columnar and tape structures. Both options are easy enough to perform, even if you work yourself, without the involvement of professionals. The installation site is marked out, a trench with a depth of 0.7 m is dug on it (regardless of the freezing of the soil), the width is selected in accordance with the section of the bar with a small reserve. The bottom is sprinkled with 10 cm of sand, which is tamped by hand using a tamper. This tool is made on the basis of thick logs and handles attached transversely.

The edges of the trench are equipped with formwork, which is easiest to fold from a board or from a board, and are connected with spacers. Please note that the formwork must rise above the ground by at least 0.3 m. Fragments of timber with lower grooves, put on the perimeter of the formwork panel, will help to simplify the work. Continuing to work step by step, they prepare concrete mix and pour them into trenches, then wait until the concrete sets and becomes dry. In hot weather, the foundation should be covered from the sun and sprayed with water to avoid cracking.

Then roofing material or other insulation is placed on top of the base. Next, you need to build walls from a profiled beam. The hardest material is used for the strapping, which does not have even minor cracks. The selected blocks are impregnated with an antiseptic compound, after which the original crown is attached to the foundation with metal pins with dowels. Alternatively, the bars are put on the reinforcement installed when pouring the foundation.

Places for genital lags are prepared by inserting into crowns. Fastening is carried out by the "thorn in the groove" method, adjacent crowns are tied with wooden pins, which are hammered into the parts to be joined. When calculating the number of rows of material, you need to focus on the average height of the baths from a bar of 250 cm. It is recommended to use not linen, but jute tape for sealing. Common gable roofs are the best way to deal with accumulating snow.

They begin to work by creating nests under rafter legs , and do them on the final crowns. The counter lattice is attached to the rafters, boards are sewn onto the slats. After them, they are engaged in a vapor barrier (the gaps between the rafters are saturated with a film) and insulation ( mineral wool must cover the vapor barrier layer). Then comes the turn of laying a film that restrains the spread of water. Finally, it comes to the lathing, which supports the main coating (OSB sheets are used for bituminous shingles).

Ceilings in attics are mainly sheathed with clapboard, and only in exceptional cases is it replaced with plasterboard.