Every fan of radio-controlled cars after what time begins to modify and improve their models. Different body options are bought for the same chassis, tuning is done, additional painting is done, light is installed.

It is about the installation of the latter that will be discussed in this article.

The control unit is bought ready-made, usually the following is included in the kit:
4x3mm Orange LEDs.
2x3mm White LEDs.
4x5mm White LEDs.
2x5mm Red LEDs.
8x60mm nylon ties.
2 JR Y-cables (splitter).
8 Blocks for fixing the wires.
12 LED mounts.
Double-sided adhesive tape.
Instruction with pictures

Diodes are supplied soldered in several pieces and after connecting all the LEDs there are 2 more free connectors.

RC Car Light Control Unit Connector List:
Connector 1: Front low beam headlamps. (Without movement - they light up dimly, when you press the gas - light up brightly)
Connector 2: front headlights. (Without movement - do not light, when you press the gas - light up brightly)
Connector 3: left turn signal. (Flashing when turning the steering wheel)
Connector 4: right turn signal.
Connector 5: front dipped headlights.
Connector 6: reversing lights. (Light up only when the brake is pressed again)
Connector 7: flashing lights. (Like strobe lights)
Connector 8: brake lights. (They burn dimly all the time, when you press the brake, they light up brightly)

Alexander comments:

So I'm wondering where to get such headlights on the sprue or what are similar, I looked for many places and all without results, and drilling holes just under the diodes in the RC model is somehow not beautiful. Can you tell me ????

You can buy any lighting equipment for your car model from us. In our store, you can purchase both individual items, for example, turn signals or headlights, and complete sets.

We follow the latest trends and give our customers the opportunity to equip their model in any style: we have sets of equipment "angel eyes", sets with strobe lights. You can purchase equipment for lighting the bottom of the model, individual light units, as well as other equipment, the whole variety of which you can appreciate, simply by scrolling through our catalog.

If you need an individual solution, you can always contact our consultants - they will help you choose the best lighting option for your model.

Various lighting equipment in a radio-controlled car

If you are looking for an impressive selection, then you've found it! Our online store offers you a huge number of products that will be useful to a modeller.

Our assortment includes parts made by world famous brands from China and Japan. You can purchase the following items:

Headlights on a radio-controlled car. Very popular are "angel eyes", which give a clear and bright color.

Turn signals for car models, as well as mirrors with integrated turn signals. These side elements allow you to indicate the direction of rotation.

Police flashers, chandeliers - these products are indispensable if you want to make your car look like a police car.

Underbody lighting for radio-controlled cars. The set usually contains light tubes with a control unit for illumination.

Universal body reflectors are simple and affordable accessories that you can use to enhance the appearance of these products and get the lighting you want.

LEDs in a large number of different colors (blue, white, red, etc.).

LED diffusers are elements that make light warmer and more natural.

All products are presented in a large assortment.

How to buy a light for a radio controlled car?

If you decide to purchase such items in our online store, it will be convenient for you to add all items to your shopping cart online. In addition to a comfortable shopping system, we offer you favorable prices and a huge selection of goods.

Here you will find a variety of headlights for radio-controlled models. Add the item to your Cart, pay for it by choosing a suitable payment method, and expect prompt delivery. Delivery can be arranged anywhere in Russia. Ask our specialists for details.

You will need a car light if you want to customize and improve your car. You can purchase front low and high beam lights, left and right turn signals, reverse lights, flashing lights (reminiscent of strobe lights), brake lights.

To install an additional light on a car, you will need to be careful and carefully follow the instructions. Connecting lights or headlights is a fun process that is both technical and creative at the same time.

Our online store wishes you the best in modeling!

Hello. I want to talk about how I made a semblance of neon lights and headlights with dimensions for a 1:10 scale RC drift model.

Background

In November 2015, I became interested in drifting on RC-models, money suddenly appeared, and then it started ... Drift got me involved, and I decided to move on to the stage, which in electronics usually begins with the manufacture of cases for my devices, and in modeling - with the addition of "beauties "On the model. I already had a case - a life-beating Porsce 911 GT2 RS, and I decided to add some light. What came of this - let's see.

Part 1, theoretical and philosophical

To begin with, I made a list of "Wishlist" for myself:

1. Illumination of the bottom of the model, the so-called. "neon";
2. Headlights (high beam);
3. Dimensions.

For lighting, I dug out a pseudo-RGB LED strip in the bins of the cabinet. The R, G and B LEDs are not in the same case, but simply stand one after the other (I missed this fact when ordering, so the tape moved into the cabinet). The length of one segment of the tape is 147mm and it can accommodate two LEDs of each color. But whatever the RGB tape, it still needs a control controller - I planned to implement it on the ATTiny13, since they were recognized by me as "untenable" for projects and were quietly lying in the same cabinet.

The inclusion of headlights and dimensions was also planned with the help of the same ATTini, but ... it did not work out, in general. Although everything is drawn and described both on the seal and in the code, maybe someday I will add it later; now the light and dimensions are switched on by a DIP switch for 2 sections.

In the original version of the "light block", it was planned to combine the power supply with the power supply of the power unit; Whether it was interference, or a voltage drop due to the gluttony of my governor reset the controller, so I had to add (in version 2) 2 18650 batteries connected in series. A voltage of 6-8.4V was enough to power the LED strips. Then, due to the lack of a large number of compartments for 18650, I had to replace the double compartment with a single one and add a Chinese DC-DC Step-Up module on a small microcircuit with unreadable markings. I set the output voltage to 10V, now both tapes and headlights shine brighter, however, you have to charge the battery more often; but it is still more than enough for 2-3 pokatushki for 2.5 hours. And carrying 2 18650 batteries with you is not such a big problem. MK power is provided by the LM1117-5.0 converter,

Part 2, practical

In practice, the implementation of the light controller is not a miracle, I did not bother too much and decided to make 5 modes of operation - everything is off, R, G, B, RGB. Due to the relatively low ground clearance of the model, all three LEDs are clearly visible in RGB mode. The tape itself has a common anode, the cathodes are switched using small N-channel field-effect transistors in the SOT-23 package. For some reason, the biggest problem for me was the wiring of the power section - I dull a little when I draw circuits with transistors. And after eliminating the problem, I found a connection diagram in the Arduino Basic Connections collection.

LEDs are mounted on the body of the model (for headlights - on asterisks, dimensions are simply glued on with hot melt glue) and a board on which a DIP switch and current-limiting resistors are installed. The battery with a step-up converter is on the chassis, power is supplied through the 3-pin connector, of which 1 is not connected (to protect against polarity reversal).

The firmware for the microcontroller (everything at the end of the article in the archive) is written in BASCOM-AVR, which, IMHO, was undeservedly described by one or two articles on Habré, because the environment deserves attention due to the ease of writing the program and decent code at the output.

In conclusion, a few photos of the resulting:

Photos of the board without heat shrinkage have not been preserved

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Modern radio-controlled toys are clever designs that are the pinnacle of the art of modeling. Models with luminous wheels are a separate product category that you should pay attention to if you want not only daytime, but also nighttime races to be a real sight. The battery capacity of such machines is much larger, due to the impressive power consumption.

What you should pay attention to

When a buyer chooses a radio-controlled toy, he is advised to pay attention to several main factors:

Consumer age;

Machine scale;

Engine's type.

A child's age plays an important role in choosing a model for play. The smaller the child, the easier it should be for him to operate. the scale of the toy will fluctuate with age, the largest radio-controlled cars with luminous wheels are intended for teenagers from 12 years old. They have an impressive weight and some of them are not so easy to transport by hand.

For indoor play, it is worth choosing a smaller model, it will be able to demonstrate all its advantages, it will be easy to enter turns, maneuver between obstacles. Large, large-sized models are used only on the street, where they have enough space to make a check-in.

There is a lot of attention to the type of engine, electric motors are easy to maintain, but a brushless motor has more power and is able to accelerate a car to 200 km / h, despite the fact that it is a toy. Such machines are intended for an older user; for children, manufacturers offer more modest characteristics. Internal combustion engines are not only expensive to maintain, but a lot of experience is required to keep such a machine in order. These are professional models for experienced modelers.

The second stage is the power supply of the brake lights

We gut the second servo, take out the circuit from there and unsolder the motor. We connect the servo in parallel with the receiver's 2nd channel. After connecting, it is necessary to turn the servo wheel to catch the moment when power is not supplied to the wires from the motor. I just soldered the trimmers and tuned with it. I cannot illustrate this process, because everything is already wired and packaged in place.

The initial connection diagram was as follows:

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Those. power to the head light is supplied from the battery from the iPhone (stage 1) while the taillight is lit at full heat. When the brake is pressed, 4V is applied to the taillight and lights up brighter.

By the way, the lantern is made of my first wheel and eight parallel-connected LEDs.

The very first night ride revealed a very serious drawback of such a connection scheme. In the dark, a fadedly burning taillight is not given to feel the dimensions of the buggy, which means that it is very difficult to catch a model trying to slip into a skid or being in a skid.

I decided to install real side lights on the spoiler. Thus, the dimensions of the model are now felt from either side, and the connection diagram has been simplified. The need to use diodes has disappeared, because the lamp now serves only as a brake light.

The headlight LEDs have been embedded in the front bumper. To get the reflectors, the remains of this were sawn. Pieces of Lexan are used as glasses.

In the photo there are already enough wartime headlights, as you can see, they are still in place.

Cooling is required with this LED. I found a heatsink for the memory of a video card in the bins, which came with some kind of cooler in the kit and poked them.

This design is very successful in dissipating heat from high-power LEDs.

It is all arranged in a waterproof box - the only thing that I bought in an offline construction store.

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