Scheme of winter water supply for unheated summer cottages in winter. Water supply from the well to the house - do-it-yourself winter version

Winter water supply and sewerage for a country house

Very many summer residents and owners of village houses in Russia during the cold season are deprived of the elementary and most important amenities in the house: the possibility of using water supply and sewerage. The reason for this is very simple - when the air temperature drops below 0°C, the water freezes. So, in the old fashioned way, you have to draw water with a bucket from a well, collect it at a public column, and to think about the frailty of being, run to separate house in a site with an environmentally hazardous cesspool or in best case, use a peat composting toilet or mobile dry closet.

Meanwhile, it is quite possible to make local water supply and sewerage suitable for year-round use in cold climates. In this article, we will consider the main aspects of creating a year-round water supply system and preventing freezing of water in the pipes of an existing water supply and sewerage system.

Source of water supply and water intake for operation in cold climates.

Water can be supplied to the house from various sources: storage tank for imported water, reservoir, well, borehole or water supply network. The main task of the water intake device is to prevent freezing of water, both in the source itself and in the external water supply system for supplying water to the house.

Frost protection for outdoor water supply

Ways to protect against freezing of water in the supply pipeline are universal for any source of water supply. The pipeline can be protected from freezing of water using various combinations of thermal insulation, protection with a layer of soil and geothermal, the use of heating elements (electric heating cables and tapes), intralumen expansion joints, using direct current water through a loop, or with a spout, drainage of the pipeline (only with occasional use).

In practice, the following methods of laying pipelines from the source of water supply to the house are most often used:

1. Insulated layer thermal insulation material and pipes equipped with cable heating are laid on the surface. This method is used on rocky soils and on permafrost.
2. Pipes insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material and equipped with cable heating are laid in the ground above the freezing depth. This option is used on heavy soils and when high level ground water.
3. Non-insulated pipes are laid in the ground below the freezing depth. This method is applicable when it is possible to dig deep trenches in the absence of high groundwater.
4. Insulated or non-insulated pipes are laid in an insulated or non-insulated underground channel.
5. Insulated or non-insulated pipes are laid in an insulated surface box.
6. Insulated or non-insulated pipes with a constant flow of water into the sewer or drainage. The method is often used for public standpipes.
7. Insulated or non-insulated pipes with constant movement of water along the loop using Pitot tubes or a circulation pump. The method is used for additional protection of pipelines from freezing when it is impossible to bury the water pipeline into the ground, for example, on rocky ground or in permafrost conditions.

Illustration No. 1 Methods for laying outdoor pipelines in cold climatic conditions.

The traditional way to protect pipelines from freezing is to bury pipes in the ground below the depth of seasonal soil freezing. The depth of winter freezing of soils depends on the geographical region and winter air temperatures, thermal insulation properties soil (its density, thermal conductivity), the presence of groundwater at the depths of the pipeline, the nature of the vegetation cover and looseness of the soil layer, the presence of fallen leaves on the surface of the soil, the thickness of the snow cover.

Table No. 1 Normative depth of seasonal freezing of soils (m)

Burying pipes below freezing depths is a reliable way to protect pipelines from freezing. However, burying the pipeline may not be possible or economically feasible on stony and heavy soils, in permafrost conditions. In these cases, pipes have to be laid either in shallow trenches or on the surface, and protected from freezing with thermal insulation, heating and constant water movement, since in the soil freezing zone the temperature usually drops to -20 ° C, but in severe climatic conditions it can reach -40 ° C.

Modern industry produces special pipes designed for laying in cold climates. The water pipe is made of polyethylene low pressure or cross-linked polyethylene. Such pipes have elasticity and better resist damage when water expands during freezing. A self-regulating heating electric cable and a thermosensor are laid along the water pipes, and the pipe is enclosed in a layer of thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam. Outside, the pipe is protected by a polymer or metal corrugated pipe.

With a small depth of laying the external water supply, it can be additionally protected underground insulation soil over the route. In order for the insulation to be really effective, the thickness of the insulation (EPS is recommended) should be at least 10-15 cm, and the insulation sheets should extend at least 1.2 m in each direction from the pipeline.

For additional protection against freezing, water pipes can be placed in concrete, metal, polymer or wooden insulated boxes filled with heat-insulating material (sawdust, foam chips) or without it.

For heating pipelines, self-regulating heating cables are used, which can be located both outside the pipe under a layer of thermal insulation, and inside the pipe lumen. Such cables can be used for heating and sewer pipes when they are shallow, and even for heating a septic tank. Heating tapes are located on the surface of pipes under a layer of thermal insulation. A feature of the use of heating elements is that they must work constantly from the moment of cold snap - as a means of preventing freezing. It is impossible to defrost frozen pipes using electric heating systems.

An additional means of preventing freezing of pipes is the use of pipes of a larger diameter than required, since when cooling, the viscosity of the water increases and the resistance to water movement increases.

New modern additional means to protect pipelines from damage during freezing, an elastic compressible silicone cord of the Ice-Loc type is used, placed inside the pipe lumen. In case of emergency freezing of water, the compression of the cord compensates for the expansion of the medium and prevents rupture of the pipe walls.

Illustration #2 Prevention of pipe damage during freezing with a compressible silicone cord in the pipe lumen

In the harsh Arctic climate, with the surface laying of insulated and heated water pipes as additional measure prevention of freezing of water, passive or activated movement of water in the inlet part of the water supply system is used. When connecting a water supply system to a main water supply system with a constant movement of water, the activation of water movement in the supply water supply system is carried out using a closed loop of water pipes. The movement of water in the loop is activated by the difference in hydrostatic water pressure that occurs in the L-shaped Pitot tubes installed along and against the movement of water in the water supply, as shown in the diagram below:

Illustration No. 3 The system for connecting the water supply of the house to the main water supply using Pitot tubes to create a loop of passive water circulation

The passive water flow loop is closed by a bypass (shunt) to the shut-off valve and the water flow meter. When creating a water circulation loop in conditions of water supply from a source with still water (a well, a well, a pond), a circulation pump is used instead of Pitot tubes.

Features of the design of water intakes from various sources in cold climatic conditions.

Illustration No. 4 Variants of sources of winter water supply country house

Wells and wells are the most common sources of water supply in rural areas of Russia. For operation in cold climatic conditions, the well head is placed in a buried waterproofed and insulated reinforced concrete, steel or plastic caisson, as shown in the illustration below.

Illustration No. 5 Winter water supply from a well and a well

In the caisson can, if necessary, be located a heating element, especially if a hydraulic accumulator is installed in the caisson. The lid of the caisson must be well insulated. Additional horizontal insulation of the soil around the caisson will not only protect the caisson from freezing, but also reduce the heaving forces acting on the caisson, which will serve to prevent its displacement or extrusion. The plumbing to the house is laid with a reverse slope to ensure its good drainage when draining the water.

Well insulation produced according to the same principles. The superstructure above the well, the walls of the aboveground and first underground rings and the soil around the well are insulated. In addition to reducing the possibility of freezing of the well, a decrease in the forces of frost heaving will protect the well rings from displacement and from leakage of the top water. An effective way to prevent freezing of water in a well at a high level of standing is the use of aeration. A pond aeration compressor is installed in the well, designed for continuous operation or switched on by a timer. The constant flow of air bubbles significantly reduces the possibility of water freezing. Also, water aeration is one of the effective ways improving water quality, due to the oxidation of organic impurities, under-oxidized metal compounds and inhibition of the activity of anaerobic sulfur bacteria, the waste products of which give the water a characteristic musty odor.

Water supply on imported water provides for the installation of a storage tank for water. For operation in winter conditions a water tank can be installed in the house, or buried in the ground and additionally insulated around the perimeter and on the surface. Additional horizontal insulation of the soil will make the thermal insulation of the tank the most effective. A water storage tank can also be used as an intermediate tank to collect water from a source with a small debit (for example, a well).

The most difficult device winter water supply from open reservoirs. At water supply from rivers, especially from shallow ones, with seasonal water level fluctuations, with a rapid current, perhaps the only effective device is a water intake device through an infiltration gallery, which is arranged in a recess along or across the riverbed with perforated concrete or plastic pipes, or, in a primitive version, from granular mineral filler in geotextiles. Water is filtered from the riverbed into the infiltration gallery and collected in a receiving well (collector) from where it is supplied to the house as from a conventional well.

To supply water from stagnant reservoirs, or from dammed rivers with a constant water level and a gentle current, water intake by a pumping station on the shore, located in a heated building, can be used. In case of periodic or temporary use of the water intake (for example, when filling the storage tank in the house), water can flow through an external pipeline laid on supports on ice with a slope to the water intake for drainage after each use. To prevent freezing of water in the area of ​​water intake and the submerged part of the pipe, a compressor with an aerator is used.

Illustration No. 6 Winter options for water intake in open reservoirs

To organize a permanent water intake in stagnant water bodies, it is preferable to use an underwater water intake in the form of water submerged with the help of anchors and floats below the level of ice formation. submersible pump, or water intake of a coastal pumping station. If possible, the water intake can be installed on a permanent basis at the bottom of the reservoir. The coastal part of the water supply should be laid using an insulated and heated pipe.

Features of intra-house water supply for operation in cold climates.

Scheme and design features intra-house water supply is primarily determined by the mode of operation of the house. If the house is to be used year-round for living, and the temperature in it drops below +17°C, then minimal adjustments to standard water supply schemes, such as those used in urban areas, will be required. If the house will be operated periodically, and the heating will have a variable mode with temperature drops up to +3 + 5 ° C, then the house water supply will need to be additionally protected from possible freezing in the event of climatic extremes or an emergency power outage during the absence of people. Plumbing in houses that will constantly or periodically remain without heating during the cold season must be designed in such a way as to ensure quick and convenient drainage of water from all pipelines and house systems, and protect sanitary equipment.

Entering water into the house. In all cases, it is recommended that water be supplied to the house through a pipeline of large diameter (1 inch) polymer flexible pipes, well insulated by one of the methods listed above, which has backup heating using electric cable. It is recommended to lay two pipes at once, so that in case of any emergency, a second pipe can be used, rather than laying a new one again. A double pipe will also be needed to organize a loop of constant water movement. It is best to use insulated HDPE pipes in polyurethane foam insulation and protection to bring water into the house. corrugated pipe with standard heating cable. When passing the input pipe through uninsulated sections of the underground (if any), it is better to additionally protect the pipe with an insulated box.

The choice of pipes for laying intra-house water supply. in houses for permanent residence with stable year-round heating, there are practically no restrictions on the material for plumbing, since the likelihood of pipes freezing is very low. However, if you take into account possible accidents and emergency situations, it is better to use polypropylene pipes of the original Western production. Such pipes, unlike pipes of Russian, Chinese, Turkish and Eastern European production, are made from a higher quality polymer, which has greater elasticity and strength. With short-term freezing of water in such pipes, their destruction may not occur, unlike pipes made of a harder and cheaper polymer, which are destroyed in most cases of freezing water in them.

Flexible, high-quality pipes are the absolute choice for homes with variable heating and occasional habitation, where the likelihood of plumbing failures is much higher.

But for houses that remain without heating for a long time, you can use inexpensive polypropylene pipes, since in any case, when you leave the house, you will have to drain the water from the entire system.

In homes with a risk of freezing water in the pipes, Ice-Loc silicone cord can be used to compensate for the expansion of water when it freezes.

Taking into account the possibility of accidents and freezing of pipelines and valves in houses that periodically remain without the presence of people in the cold season, it will be necessary to modify the shut-off ball valves that are currently widely used. The hidden danger of freezing ball valves is that in the closed position, the ball captures some of the water, which, when frozen, easily breaks the valve. To avoid this unpleasant moment, it is possible to drill a hole in one of the walls of the valve ball to drain the residual portion of water, as shown in the diagram below. The valve will perform its shutoff functions due to the second wall of the ball.

Illustration No. 7 Refinement of a ball valve for operation in a cold climate

Scheme of laying an intra-house water supply also depends on the mode of operation of the house. The fundamental difference between schemes for houses with constant, variable or periodic operation is to ensure the convenience and speed of drainage of the water supply system at home. For a house with a constant heating regime, when the likelihood of draining water from the entire system is minimal, you can consider traditional scheme laying plumbing in a house with bottom loops, laying pipes near the floor or underground. In case of a rare need to drain the entire system, it will be enough to provide for the possibility of draining water through the supply pipe (when water is not supplied from the main water supply) and the possibility of connecting a compressor to purge individual branches with lower pipeline loops to drain water. In the absence of special valves for connecting the compressor, the purge of the water supply can be carried out through open taps in washbasins and sinks.

In homes where the system is expected to drain frequently when leaving, the plumbing scheme should be optimized for quick and convenient drainage. In particular, the wiring of the water supply system can be performed with upper loops that facilitate the drainage of water. The upper water distribution scheme also allows you to quickly warm up the pipes when heating the house. In the inevitable lower loops, valves are installed at the lower points to drain the water.

For convenient draining of water from the storage water heater on the outlet pipe hot water an air valve is installed. Drainage of water can be done through the supply line cold water and open taps in the mixers, or through the installed before safety valve fitting with a valve for connecting a hose and draining water.

Prevention of freezing water in the domestic water supply.

The main prevention of freezing is to maintain a positive temperature in the house and in the places where pipelines pass. All pipelines passing through unheated areas must be insulated and equipped with heated cables.

One way to prevent freezing of water in very cold weather, or if there are sections of the water supply that cannot be heated in other ways, is to use a closed-circulation warm water system. Such a system can be gravity, using hot water from a storage water heater or heat accumulator, or forced, using a circulation pump or a special circulation and heating unit such as ReadyTemp, which is installed at the far point of the water supply, bypassing the hot and cold water lines, pumping and heating water. The device consumes only 40 W of electrical power and can operate from an uninterruptible power supply during a power outage in the house.

Illustration #8. Intra-house water circulation system to prevent freezing of water during the cold season in unheated sections of the water supply.

In the presence of people in the house very coldy you can simply open the hot and cold water taps and let the water flow in a thin stream. Open taps will reduce the pressure transmitted by water already when ice has begun to form and reduce the degree of damage to the water supply. It is also recommended to open cabinet doors under sinks and sinks to allow circulation warm air around pipes. Put a piece of Styrofoam or soft wood, which dampen the expansion of water in the drain and prevent the destruction of the toilet. Water must be drained from the tank.

Methods for defrosting frozen pipes.

If the pipes are still frozen, then a steam generator can be used for external defrosting, or hot water under pressure can be supplied to the pipes from a Karcher type washer. Qualified welders, subject to all safety measures, can use the application of electrodes welding machine to frozen areas metal pipes at minimum current.

Methods such as heating pipes with a burner flame, building hair dryer, turning on heating cables, pouring hot water into pipes are usually ineffective.

Features of the design of local sewerage for a cold climate.

In order for the local sewage system to work properly in the cold season, the water in the sewer pipes and in the filtration fields should not freeze, and the temperature in the septic tank should be maintained, suitable for the life of the bacteria inhabiting it. Problems in winter rarely occur in a constantly operated house, the soil under which is warm or has not had time to freeze, and drains enter the sewer regularly, provided that the sewer pipes and the septic tank are adequately insulated. Normally, a septic tank, in addition to geothermal, is provided and extra warmth produced during biological decay organic matter V Wastewater Oh. However, the situation may worsen with long interruptions in the operation of the sewer and with insufficient insulation. In this case, the microflora of the septic tank is inhibited, and the amount of heat generated is reduced. Also, problems can arise with the surface laying of sewer pipes.

As measures to prevent freezing of sewer pipes and a septic tank, it is recommended to carry out preventive warming of the soil above the sewer pipes and a septic tank. When laying pipes on the surface (for example, with septic tanks of a surface structure), they must be removed into insulated boxes. Sewer pipes can be equipped with a cable heating system, in which the cable is placed in the inner lumen of the pipe and released into the septic tank. Such heating will serve as a prevention of freezing of sewage during rare and insignificant operation and will help to preserve the biological activity of the microflora of the septic tank. In aerotanks, the contents are protected from freezing due to active aeration and movement of the medium.

For additional protection of the septic tank, filtration fields and sewer pipes in winter time do not remove snow from above them. On the contrary, it is recommended to set up shields for snow retention. You can also pre-insulate the surface above the septic tank with bags of leaves, sawdust, grass, cover with hay.

Illustration #12. Winter sewer.

Brief conclusions.

1. The operation of a country house in a cold climate requires special attention to the prevention of freezing water in the plumbing and sewer system.
2. When building a house in a cold climate, it is recommended to determine in advance the mode of its operation and, in accordance with it, plan the water supply system of the house.
3. Modern technologies allow you to find the right technical solution to ensure year-round water supply at home even in the most severe climatic conditions and prevent significant losses due to freezing of water in the water supply system in emergency and emergency situations.

Pressurized water can remain liquid even at temperatures below 0°C. University of Illinois research has shown that pressurized water actually freezes in uninsulated plumbing in basements when temperatures reach minus 6.6°C. Also freezing of water negative temperatures prevents its movement through the pipes.

The dacha is a great vacation spot for the whole family, not only in summer, but also in winter. In order not to bring inconvenience in the cold season, it is worth thinking about equipment on suburban area winter plumbing. Doing it yourself is not at all difficult, the main thing is to have construction skills and patience.

The very type of design of the device of the winter water supply system at the summer cottage is not much different from its summer type. Like any other system, it has a set necessary elements such as pump, accumulator, water tank and pressure switch. In both summer and winter versions, the water supply system is mounted with a slope to the side to the intended source of water supply.

The summer water supply system needs to release water at the end of October, but not the winter one if you are in the country.

Among the main features in the functional activity of the water supply system in the frosty season are:

• Winter water supply system in operation all year round.
• Pipes must be laid in the ground below the freezing level of the ground.
• As a rule, pipes with water are laid through cold rooms of the basement type or under the foundation. Of course, no heating system there isn't. Therefore, there is a need for their heating throughout the distance. For this purpose, a special cable is used that heats the liquid in the pipes.
• Pipe routing can only be done in sequential order.

In general, if you decide to install a winter water supply system in your country house, you will not regret it. It will function all year round, supplying to your home warm water Anytime.

The water supply of the winter water supply system for a summer cottage consists of such main elements and devices as:

1. pump. It can be of two types - submersible or surface. The power and type of the pump depends entirely on the depth of the water supply source and what type it has (well, well or water main).
2. Drain valve. Sometimes an electromagnetic drain valve is used. This is a special device that is designed to drain water from the system so that it does not stagnate there. As a rule, it is installed next to the pump at the very bottom of the water supply. Water can drain either into a water supply source, for example, a well, or leave through a specially laid bypass pipe. Typically, this option is used when the water source is not deeper than eight meters or is located near the house. Then it is necessary to install a check valve in the building, and in front of it - a bypass pipe together with a tap. When it opens, the vacuum will disappear and the water will drain itself.
3. Water pipe. Year-round water supply must be installed at the base polypropylene pipes. They are more profitable than polyethylene or metal (only if they are not made of expensive copper) - polypropylene pipes do not rust and are very durable. Connect them together by welding.
4. Water tank pressure sensor. The hydroaccumulation tank, together with the membrane, normalizes the water pressure in the pipes and provides the house with water for some time, even when the electricity is turned off or the pump is out of order. A pressure switch must be installed next to such a tank. When it becomes normal level for the system - the pump automatically turns off. When it is below the norm, the contacts close and water is pumped into the tank.
5. Cable for water heating. Since in most cases country houses basements are not heated, then a water heating cable must be placed along the entire distance of the laying pipes. It is placed directly in front of the pipe laying, laying the cable inside the pipe. It prevents freezing of the water supply, allowing you to use warm water even in the most severe frosts.

All these elements can be bought as a set in a specialized store, or purchased separately. In any case, ready-made plumbing will become your indispensable assistant.

In order to install plumbing in a summer cottage with your own hands, you will need a large number of consumables and special parts, the selection of which is carried out on an individual basis.

A standard set of plumbing tools includes:

• shovel
• Hammer
• Drill
• Perforator
• Pliers
• Screwdriver
• Bulgarian
• Soldering iron for pipes
• A set of keys

Having such a versatile set of tools with you, you can easily mount the plumbing yourself.

The most important point that requires a serious and careful approach is drawing up a water supply scheme. Further compliance with the plan and implementation of the project depends on its correct compilation. Also, how efficient your water supply will turn out to be and what quality it will come out at the end will depend on the scheme. If you doubt your abilities and knowledge, consult with experts in this field.

First of all, you need to decide on the starting and ending point of the line along which the pipes will be laid.

Next you need to choose necessary equipment, designate a water supply point in the house, determine the source of water supply, select materials and tools. After that, it is already possible to proceed to the laying scheme and the winter water supply connection scheme at their summer cottage.

The final stage implies, in fact, the drawing itself, on which you apply the path of the highway, the dimensions and the place where it will be installed pump equipment. The purchase of materials and the selection of tools takes place after the drawn up drawing. Recall that if you are not strong in drawing or do not understand it at all, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

The simplest and convenient option- this is the connection of the country water supply network to the centralized water supply system.

But such a system is far from being available in all areas, so you usually have to choose from two options - a well and a well.

Among the main advantages of a well as a source of water supply are:

• When they are not used for a long time, the well does not clog.
• Using it as a source of water supply, you do not need to install a powerful and expensive pump, because the depth of the well is not as great as that of a well.

At the same time, the water that is supplied from the well is much cleaner. But installing a water pipe based on a well is a rather expensive pleasure and a complex process. Among the main disadvantages of a well as a source of water is that its small volume does not allow water to be drained back during conservation. To do this, you will have to install bypass pipes and dig a sewer or cesspool. Therefore, of two evils, choose the least.

Do-it-yourself winter plumbing installation involves several sequential steps:

• Step 1 - preparing a trench for pipes. We already wrote above that the trench should be deeper than the freezing level of the soil and reach about two meters, especially if there is a source of water supply nearby. The trench must be level. It is recommended to cover its bottom with a sand cushion no less than 15 centimeters thick. After laying the pipe in the trench, carefully connect the water supply line to the pump pipe. The place where the pipe will exit from the water supply source is sealed with cement, mixing it with liquid glass so that the well or well is not flooded with groundwater.
• Step 2 - laying the pipe. The laid pipe must be covered with a layer of sand, and on top with the soil that remained after digging the trench. If the depth of the trench meets the standards, then there is no need to insulate the pipe itself in the ground. It is enough to mount a cable for heating the water in the area where it will pass through the open air. If you do not have the opportunity to dig a deep trench, then you need to lay insulation on its bottom, which does not absorb water, and only after that you can lay the pipe. From above, it is also covered with insulation so that in winter the water in the pipes does not freeze.
• Step 3 is the final one. After the completed processes, the trench is covered with sand and soil, and clay on top. Thoroughly tamp.

After completing these steps, you can already operate the plumbing and be proud that you made it yourself.

Having acquired your own winter plumbing, you need to take into account several recommendations for warming it in the cold season:

• It is necessary to lay pipes in a trench with the outer part to the water supply, taking into account the depth of freezing.
• Insulate the pipes with sand bedding or polypropylene covers.
• In addition to pipe insulation, it is necessary to carefully insulate the source of water supply (all seams, cracks, minor and major damage must be sealed) and equipment that is outside.
• Insulate the sewer, if you have one. This must be done so that in the cold season it does not come in a state of unsuitability and does not freeze.

More information can be found in the video.

After the well is built, it is necessary to take care of the installation of water supply. If Vacation home used all year round, you will need winter water supply from a well. In order to do the whole process with your own hands, you need to know what are the possible nuances and risks associated with connecting the pump and connecting pipes.

What is winter water supply

In this case, the word "winter" means year-round.

If we talk about winter plumbing, then the water will not freeze if one of the special methods is used for installation:

• Winter water supply is carried out below the freezing of the soil.
• Water supply in the country from the well in winter is above freezing, but at the same time additional high-quality thermal insulation is performed.

Advice. If the depth of ground freezing is up to 0.8 meters, then you can use the first method.

Winter water supply of the well, more about the methods:

• If the depth is below 1.5 m and there is no way to dig deeper, then the second method can be used. In this case, the price will increase, as the cost of additional pipe protection and insulation will increase.
• For this case, a trench up to 1m is dug and a pipe is laid. For heating, you will need a heat insulator and an additional heating cable.
• The most difficult thing when installing a water supply system is the connection with a reinforced concrete well in the place where a hole was left during the construction of the structure.
• The connection is carefully insulated so that dirt does not get inside through it.

Sealing and winter water supply from a well:

• In order to ensure the highest quality sealing, it is necessary to use a squeegee, which is a short pipe with threads at both ends.
• On both sides, gaskets are put on the pipes and pressed against the wall with the help of flanges.

Advice. If HDPE pipes with a diameter of 32 mm are used, it is recommended to install an adapter fitting for joining. In order to connect the pipes together, you will need soldering or fittings.

• For outdoor and internal waterproofing it is not recommended to use liquid mastics. Suitable cement mortar with addition liquid glass or silicone sealant.

Advice. In order to supply water to the cottage from the well in winter, the depth of the pipe must be below the middle of the water level. If you bring the pipe close to the bottom, the pump may become clogged.

Pipe installation:

• Before being installed vertical pipe, all the water is pumped out beforehand. The pipe is connected by hand with an angled elbow of the outlet pipe from the trench. Next, you need to measure the indent, which should be equal to about thirty centimeters and connect the pipe.
• Instead of a knee, you can use a faucet at a right angle, which will stop the water supply for the duration of the session. repair work or when replacing plumbing.

How is the water supply of the cottage in winter

Winter water supply can be done in several ways. It all depends on how often the country house is operated: all year round or we are talking about periodic operation with the ability to start water supply at any time.

Let's consider each method in more detail:

• The first method is applied as for ordinary country houses, as well as for residential country houses. Water supply from a well in winter is carried out taking into account the fact that people live there all the time, which means that it is warm in the house in winter. In this case, during installation, the preservation device can be dispensed with.
• Water supply in winter from a well, taking into account conservation, greatly complicates the task, see photo. It is impossible to perform this device without certain skills with your own hands; it is better to seek help from specialists. Warming (see) makes it possible to keep the water supply working all year round, even if no one lives in the house for a long time.

• Water supply from a well in winter in both cases provides for installation underground pipeline at a depth of about 1.5 m. Here it is necessary to take into account the observance of the slope in relation to the water source. If the length of the pipeline does not exceed 8 m, then it is not necessary to include a mandatory filling system in the pipeline device.

Advice. In this case, it would be appropriate to install check valve right in the house, and the pressure will be created when the pump is turned on. To drain the water, you will need a bypass pipeline device.

• Often the water supply of a well in winter involves the use of a pumping station. The installation instructions are simple and work in automatic mode, thanks to which it is possible to organize a regular flow of water offline, which is a good alternative to a submersible pump.

If in a private house there is no possibility of connecting municipal water supply, then you can do autonomous water supply. The main source of water is a well dug on the site. Before building a water pipe from a well to a house with your own hands, be sure to consider the winter version of the water supply.

How to make winter plumbing in the country from a well

The main difference between the summer water supply system is the absence of insulation on the pipes. It can be laid on the surface of the earth. With the onset of cold weather, the water drains from the pipes. Otherwise, when freezing, the ice formed inside will break the pipes. Mineral wool or other insulation is used as a heater.

Winter water supply to the dacha from the well is laid in such a way that the pipes have a slope. When it is not needed, water should escape from the system by gravity. The best option is to lay pipes underground. For this, a trench is dug. Its depth should exceed the depth of soil freezing (regional indicator). In most regions, this is more than a meter.

How to make water supply from a well winter version of water supply

Having autonomous system water supply, homeowners and summer residents do not need to pay money to the municipality. There will be no interruptions in water supply unless the electricity is turned off. It will not be possible to raise water to the surface and transfer it to the house without an electric pump. But even if it happens that the power grid fails, the water can be raised in the old way (bucket).

In summer, flexible hoses can be used as a pipeline. A feature of winter water supply is that water from a well must flow through a pipeline made of metal, plastic or metal-plastic pipes. In any case, the system must be insulated. The entire installation process can be divided into stages, each of which has specific features, since we are talking about operating the system in cold weather.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is necessary to make calculations, on the basis of which materials, equipment, components are determined. For this:

1. The rate of water consumption is calculated. The number of consumers is summed up, provided that they are turned on at the same time.
2. If the house has instantaneous water heater (geyser) the calculation takes into account the pressure in the system, which is necessary for the equipment to turn on.
3. Based on the consumption, the pipe diameter and material are calculated. An excellent option would be metal-plastic. It does not rust, does not rot, does not clog, and lasts a long time.
4. The required pressure will be maintained by the pump. Its power is determined based on the parameters described in the previous paragraphs.

It is necessary to take into account the depth of groundwater in the hot period, so that even in summer the pump performance is sufficient. A diagram is drawn up indicating the geometric dimensions of the pipeline. The length of the pipeline is determined. It is necessary to calculate how many angle and socket connectors will be required for installation. Everything you need is purchased, including fittings.

To make winter plumbing, you need to include insulation in the estimate and waterproofing materials. The cost and type of pump is determined from the performance. Will have to spend on power cable, which must be solid, and have a section that can withstand the maximum load.

Mounting tricks

You can dig a trench yourself. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that there are a number of features:

1. If the depth of pipe laying is greater than the depth of soil freezing, you can refuse to use insulation. But in this case, you have to dig more than a meter.
2. The minimum depth of laying the pipeline is 0.75 m. In this case, insulation is mandatory.
3. The trench is digging downhill towards the well. The angle of inclination is checked by an electronic level, and must be at least 2 degrees.
4. The bottom of the trench is covered with crushed stone of a fraction of at least 5-20, which is laid on sand cushion and compacted with a rammer.

The trench is led from the wall of the well, and reaches the foundation. A hole is made in it. The same must be done on the wall of the well. Now you can lay the pipeline.

Pipe laying

Again, there are a number of features:

1. Polyethylene and metal-plastic pipes do not need to be processed. Metal is coated with a special anti-corrosion mask.
2. The pipes are wrapped with insulation, and wrapped with a film on top so that moisture does not reduce its effectiveness.
3. The pipe crashes into the walls of the well. A drain valve must be provided so that, if necessary, water can be drained from the system.
4. If the route has turns, manholes are arranged. They are dug out in places where pipes are joined by corner fittings.

A manhole is a pit a meter by a meter in area. The bottom is covered with crushed stone, rammed, reinforced and poured with concrete. The walls are being built brickwork. A lid is laid on top so that the well does not fill with water during the flood period.

Deep pump installation

The submersible pump works on the principle of a pump. It should be completely submerged under water, but should not lie on the bottom, the distance to which is made at least half a meter. This is necessary so that the pump does not silt. It is suspended on a steel cable, to which the cable is attached with an insulating tape. Connection must be made on the surface.

The length of the cable should be such that in summer, when the level water will fall, the pump was not suspended in the air. The power wire is laid along the pipe into the trench. It can be wound on top or laid under thermal insulation. Landing is highly undesirable. A whole cable will last indefinitely without the risk of breakdown and short circuit. The pump is attached by means of a coupling to a pipe, which is installed vertically, and is connected to a horizontal route.

Device and insulation of the entrance to the house

If there is a hole or a dig in the foundation - good. You don't have to warm up anything. There is another way to enter, when the pipeline is brought to the surface along the wall and already through it enters the building. In this case, it is necessary to make a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, as in the case of a manhole. Walls are built from bricks.

The vertical pipe must be well insulated to prevent freezing of water. A metal sleeve is laid in the wall or foundation, with a diameter larger than the cross section of the pipeline. The pipe penetrates the structure through this sleeve. There is one technological feature. The pipeline must not be brought into the house with sewer pipe. There should be a distance of at least 15 cm between them.

Equipment installation

In addition to the pump, you will need:

• hydraulic accumulator;
• filters;
• monometers.

A hydraulic accumulator is a container that will provide a supply of water. Another function of this equipment is the autonomous switching on and off of the pump. If the pressure in it drops, the sensor is triggered and the pump starts.

After the pressure reaches the set point, automatic shutdown equipment, which reduces energy costs and saves money. If the house is left unattended and unheated in winter, the system is lowered.

Final stage

Before burying a trench, perform commissioning works. They are about starting the system. The pressure in the pipes is checked. After it reaches the operating parameters, all the taps in the house open, the boiler or column starts. The pressure must be sufficient to supply all consumers.

After closing the taps, you need to make sure that the route is tight and does not flow. And if all is well, you can dig a trench with a pipeline. The well must be protected from dust, leaves, dirt. For the water supply of the dacha from the well in winter, it is also important that the water in it does not freeze and the ice does not press on the pipe.

Innovative way of water supply device

An alternative is an artesian well. This is an opportunity to enjoy crystal clean water. The submersible pump is also lowered inside. You can install a pumping station on the surface (in a special, insulated building) and even in the house. Plus - access to the unit for maintenance. Minus - the presence of noise and vibration during operation.

Summing up

There is nothing complicated in arranging a winter water supply from a well. All work can be done independently. Difficulties may arise at the stage of calculations and installation of the pipeline, but this can be dealt with. The result is water in the house (in the country), and if there is a flow heater or boiler, even hot. This is the minimum comfort available to everyone.

A simple way to winter water supply at home from a well

Immediately after I bought the site, the question of water supply arose. The plot is in a swamp and, as the neighbors said, the wells here are quickly silted up. I decided, like the others, to dig a well. He hired a team that dug a well, and then built a house nearby. Even at the stage of the foundation of the house (concrete belt), I threw a metal-plastic pipe 3/4 from the well to the intended place toilet room at a depth of 50 cm. The pipe was wrapped in a PVC sponge sheath.
I decided that my water supply system should be as simple as possible, function not only in summer, but also in winter, give water to Summer shower and a watering hose in the area, as well as in the toilet bowl, the tank of the shower chamber and for sinks in the toilet and in the kitchen. ( simple system drainage into the septic tank from the shower cabin, two sinks and a toilet bowl was also carried out in advance, before the construction of the house).
From the idea of ​​staging automatic pump with an expansion tank refused immediately. In winter, I visit, and such a system is difficult to maintain when everything freezes through. And the operation of the automatic pump in the house is associated with vibration and noise. And place somewhere outside the house and do some warm cell did not want.
So I made it as simple as possible. In the well there is an ordinary vibration pump of the Malysh type (Chinese analogue for 800 r). Through a flexible hose, and then through plastic pipe water from the pump enters the house or into a barrel and a shower outside. In the house, the pump is controlled by a switch and, depending on which faucet is open, it goes either to the shower tank, or to the toilet bowl, or to the bucket filling faucet. Managed in manual mode:
- if we fill the toilet bowl - turn it off as soon as water flows from below (this can be done without getting up from the toilet bowl);
- if in the shower tank - until water appears in the control tube.
The main element of the entire water supply system is a warm bunker above the well, which allows you to keep the heat of the water column in the well and keep the temperature in the system above 0 * C in any frost. The main trick is that in winter the faucet "to the shower" is constantly open. This does not prevent water from pouring into the toilet bowl or bucket, because when one of the "lower consumers" is open, water still does not go to a 2-meter height. But on the other hand, the system always has an air leak from the "shower end". And the water, when we turn off the pump, slowly flows from the pipes into the well back. (If you do not leave any tap open, the water will remain in the pipe after the pump is turned off and may freeze). Thus, in the most severe frosts, there is nothing to freeze in the pipes! When I turn on the pump, water fills the pipe from a depth of 8 meters. And it does not fall below + 5- + 7 degrees there.
I've been using it for two winters now and I'm very happy with it. I come to a frozen house and even if the house has -10 * toilet and water supply work!
All photos on the topic in my album with the same name.