Geographical description of the Andes mountains. Andes mountains - detailed information with photos

Cordillera or Andes (Cordilleros de Los Andes) - the Spanish name for a huge mountain system (from the Peruvian word Anti, copper); by this name the ridges near Kuzko were formerly called, but later this was the name of the mountain range of South America. The Spaniards and Spanish-Americans also call the Cardillera part of the ranges of Central America, Mexico and the southwestern United States, but it is completely wrong to call the mountains of these countries by the same name with the huge mountain range of South America, which, starting in the extreme south, at Cape Horn, stretches almost parallel to the Pacific Ocean, along the entire south.

America to the Isthmus of Panama, for almost 12,000 km. The mountain ranges of the western North American mainland have no connection with the South American Cordilleras or the Andes; in addition to the other direction of the ridges - they are separated from the Andes by the lowlands of the Isthmus of Panama, Nicaragua and the Teguantenevsky Isthmus.

For the prevention of misunderstanding, it is therefore better to call the South American Cordillera Andes. For the most part, they consist of a number of high ridges, running more or less parallel to one another and covering almost 1/6 of the entire southern region with their highlands and slopes. America.

General description of the Andes mountain system.

Description of the mountain system of the Andes.

The enormous mountain system, with a complex orography and diverse geological structure, differs sharply from the eastern part of South America. It is characterized by completely different patterns of relief formation, climates and a different composition of the organic world.

The nature of the Andes is extremely varied. This is due, first of all, to their enormous length from north to south. The Andes lie in 6 climatic zones (equatorial, northern and southern subequatorial, southern tropical, subtropical and temperate) and are distinguished (especially in the central part) by sharp contrasts in the moisture content of the eastern (leeward) and western (windward) slopes Northern, central and southern parts of the Andes differ from each other no less than, for example, Amazonia from Pampa or Patagonia.

The Andes appeared due to the new (Cenozoic-Alpine) folding, the time of manifestation of which is from 60 million years to the present day. This also explains the tectonic activity manifested in the form of earthquakes.

The Andes are revived mountains, erected by the latest uplifts on the site of the so-called Andean (Cordillera) folded geosynclinal belt. The Andes are rich in ores, mainly of non-ferrous metals, in the forward and foothill troughs, in oil and gas. They consist mainly of meridional parallel ridges: the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes, the Central Cordillera of the Andes, the Western Cordillera of the Andes, the Coastal Cordillera of the Andes, between which lie the inland plateaus and plateaus (Puna, Altipano - in Bolivia and Peru) or depressions.

An interoceanic watershed runs along the Andes; the Amazon and its tributaries, as well as the tributaries of the Orinoco, Paraguay, Parana, the Magdalena River and the Patagonia River, originate in them. In the Andes lies the highest mountain of the large lakes in the world - Titicaca.

The windward humid slopes from the Northwest Andes to the Central Andes are covered with mountain humid equatorial and tropical forests. In the Subtropical Andes - evergreen dry subtropical forests and shrubs, south of 38 ° S latitude - moist evergreen and mixed forests. The vegetation of the alpine plateaus: in the north - the mountain equatorial meadows of Paramos, in the Peruvian Andes and in the east of Pune - dry alpine-tropical steppes of Halka, in the west of Pune and in the entire Pacific west between 5-28 ° S latitude - desert types of vegetation.

The Andes are home to cinchona, coca, potatoes and other valuable plants.

Classification of the Andes.

Depending on the position in a particular climatic zone and on the differences in orography and structure, the Andes are subdivided into regions, each of which has its own characteristics of relief, climate and altitudinal zonality.

Allocated among the Andes: the Caribbean Andes, the Northern Andes, lying in the equatorial and subequatorial belts, the Central Andes of the tropical belt, the subtropical Chilean-Argentinean Andes and the Southern Andes, lying within the temperate belt. The island area - Tierra del Fuego - is especially considered.

From Cape Horn, the main Andes chain runs along the western coast of Tierra del Fuego and consists of rocky peaks from 2000 to 3000 altitudes above sea level; the highest of them is Sacramento, 6910 above sea level. The Patagonian Andes go straight north to 42 ° S. sh., accompanied by parallel rocky, mountainous islands in the Pacific Ocean. Chilean Andes stretch from 42 ° S. sh. up to 21 ° S sh. and form a continuous chain, dividing in the northern direction into several ridges. The highest point not only of this area, but of all the Andes is Aconcogua 6960 above sea level).

Between the Chilean cordillera and the Pacific Ocean, at a distance of 200 - 375 km., There are huge plains, lying at an altitude of 1000 - 1500 above sea level. In the south, these plains are covered with rich vegetation, but the higher mountainous regions are completely devoid of it. The Bolivian Andes form the central part of the entire system and head north of 21 ° S. to 14 ° S huge masses of rocks, stretching in length for almost seven degrees of latitude, and in width for a distance of 600 - 625 km. About 19 ° S sh. the mountain range is divided into two huge longitudinal parallel ridges to the east - the Cordillera Real and the west - Coastal. These ridges enclose the Desaguadero Highlands, it stretches for 1000 km. in length and 75 - 200 km. wide. These parallel ridges of the Cordillera stretch for a distance of about 575 km. one from the other and are connected, at some points, by huge transverse groups or single ridges, cutting them like veins. The slope to the Pacific Ocean is very steep; it is also steep to the east, from where the spurs diverge to the low-lying plains.

The main peaks of the Coastal Cordilleras: Sahama 6520m. 18 ° 7 ′ (S and 68 ° 52 ′ W, Illimani 6457 m. 16 ° 38 S and 67 ° 49 ′ W, Peruvian Cordillera.separated from the Pacific Ocean by a desert of 100 - 250 km wide, extending from 14 ° to 5 °, and is divided into two eastern spurs - one running to the northwest between the rivers Marañon and Guallaga, the other between Guallaga and Ucayalla. Between these spurs lies the Pasco or Guanuco Highlands The Cordillera of Ecuador begins at 5 ° S latitude and blows in a northerly direction to the Quito Highlands surrounded by the most magnificent volcanoes in the world in the eastern branch: Sangay, Tunguragua, Cotopaxi, in the western branch - Chimborazo. There is the Paramo mountain knot, from which there are three separate chains: Suma Paz - to the northeast past Lake Maracaibo to Caracas, by the Caribbean Sea; Kuindiu to the northeast, between the Cauca and Magdalena rivers.

Choco - along the Pacific coast to the Isthmus of Panama. Here is the Tolimo volcano at 4 ° 46 ′ north latitude. and 75 ° 37 ′ W. The giant Andes mountain range intersects between 35 ° S latitude. and 10 ° N many, mostly narrow, steep and dangerous passages and roads at heights equal to the highest peaks of European mountains, such as, for example, the passages: between Arequipa and Pune, (and the highest pass between Lima and Pasco. The most convenient of them are accessible only by mules and lamas or carrying travelers on the backs of the natives Along the Andes, for 25,000 km, there is a large trade road from Trujillo to Papayana.

Peru has Railway through the main ridge of the Cordilleras, from the ocean eastward to the basin of Lake Titicaca. Geological structure of the Andes of South America, partly from granite, gneiss, mica and shale, but mainly from diorite, porphyry, basalt mixed with limestone, sandstone and conglomerates. Minerals found here: salt, gypsum and at high altitudes veins coal; the Cordillera are especially rich in gold, silver, platinum, mercury, copper, iron, lead, topaz, amethysts and other precious stones.

Andes.

Caribbean Andes.

The northern latitudinal segment of the Andes from the island of Trinidad to the lowland of Maracaibo differs from the system of the Andes proper in terms of orographic features and structure, as well as the nature of climatic conditions and vegetation, and forms a special physical and geographical country.

The Caribbean Andes belong to the Antilles-Caribbean folded region, which, in terms of structure and development, differs both from the Cordilleras of North America and from the Andes proper.
There is a point of view according to which the Antilles-Caribbean region is the western sector of the Tethys, separated as a result of the "opening" of the Atlantic Ocean.

On the mainland, the Caribbean Andes consists of two anticlinal zones, which correspond to the Cordillera da Costa and Sierra del Interior ridges, separated by a wide valley of an extensive synclinal zone. At the bay of Barcelona, ​​the mountains are interrupted, splitting into two links - west and east. From the side of the platform, the Sierra del Interior is separated by a deep fault from the oil-bearing Subandian trough, which merges in the relief with the Orinoco lowland. A deep rift also separates the Caribbean Andes system from the Cordillera de Merida. In the north, a synclinal trough submerged by the sea separates the anticlinorium of the Margarita - Tobago Islands from the mainland. The continuation of these structures can be traced in the Paraguana and Goahira peninsulas.

All mountain structures of the Caribbean Andes are composed of folded rocks of the Paleozoic and Mesozoic and are penetrated by intrusions of various ages. Their modern relief was formed under the influence of repeated uplifts, the last of which, accompanied by subsidence - synclinal zones and faults, occurred in the Neogene. The entire system of the Caribbean Andes is seismic, but has no active volcanoes. The relief of the mountains is blocky, medium-high, the highest peaks exceed 2500 m, the mountain massifs are separated from each other by through erosional and tectonic depressions.

Located on the border between the subequatorial and tropical zones, the Caribbean Andes, especially the islands and peninsulas of Paraguana and Goahira, have a drier climate than neighboring regions. All year long they are exposed to the tropical air brought in by the north-east trade wind. Annual precipitation does not exceed 1000 mm, but more often they are even below 500 mm. Most of them fall from May to November, but in the driest northern regions, the wet period lasts only two to three months. Small short streams flow down from the mountains towards the Caribbean Sea, carrying a large amount of clastic material to the coast; the places where limestones come to the surface are almost completely waterless.

The lagoon coasts of the mainland and islands are covered with wide strips of mangrove thickets; on dry lowlands, thickets dominate, such as wash, consisting of candelabra cacti, prickly pears, milkweed, and a mosquito. Among this gray-green vegetation, gray soil or yellow sand shines through. The more abundantly irrigated mountain slopes and open to the sea valleys are covered with mixed forests, which combine evergreen and deciduous species, coniferous and deciduous trees. The upper parts of the mountains are used as pastures. At a low altitude above sea level, groves or single specimens of royal and coconut palms stand out as bright spots. The entire northern coast of Venezuela has been turned into a resort and tourist area, with beaches, hotels and parks.

In a wide valley, separated from the sea by the Cordillera da Costa ridge, and on the slopes of the surrounding mountains lies the capital of Venezuela - Caracas. The mountain slopes and plains cleared from the forest are occupied by plantations of coffee and chocolate trees, cotton, tobacco, sisal.

Northern Andes

Under this name, the northern section of the Andes proper is known from the Caribbean coast to the border between Ecuador and Peru in the south. Here, in the region of 4-5 ° S, there is a fault that separates the Northern Andes from the Central Andes.

Off the coast of the Caribbean Sea in Colombia and Venezuela, fan-shaped ridges alternate with foothill depressions and wide intermontane valleys, reaching total width 450 km. In the south, within Ecuador, the entire system narrows down to 100 km. In the structure of the main part of the Northern Andes (approximately between 2 and 8 ° N), all the main orotectonic elements of the Andean system are clearly expressed. A narrow, low and highly dissected Coast Ridge stretches along the Pacific coast. It is separated from the rest of the Andes by the longitudinal tectonic depression of the Atrato River. To the east, the higher and more massive ridges of the Western and Central Cordilleras rise parallel to each other, separated by the narrow valley of the Cauca River. The Central Cordillera is Colombia's highest mountain range. Separate volcanic peaks rise on its crystalline base, among which Tolima rises to a height of 5215 m.

Farther east, behind the deep valley of the Magdalena River, there is the lower ridge of the Eastern Cordillera, which is composed of highly folded sedimentary rocks and is divided in the central part by vast basin-like depressions. One of them, at an altitude of 2600 m, is the capital of Colombia, Bogotá.

About 8 ° N. sh. The eastern Cordillera is divided into two branches - the submeridial Sierra Perija and the Cordillera de Merida, which branch off to the northeast and reach an altitude of 5000 m. On the middle massif located between them, a vast intermontane depression Maracaibo was formed, occupied in the central part by the lake of the same name. lagoon. To the west of the Sierra Periha ridge, there is a swampy lowland of the lower Magdalena - Kauki, corresponding to a young intermontane trough. At the very coast of the Caribbean Sea, the isolated massif of the Sierra Neva da de Santa Marta (Cristobal Colon - 5775 m) rises, which is a continuation of the anticlinorium of the Central Cordillera, separated from its main part by the depression of the Magdalena Valley. The young sediments filling the Maracaibo and Magdalena-Kauka depressions contain the richest oil and gas deposits.

From the side of the platform, the entire zone of the Northern Andes is accompanied by a young Subandian trough, which also differs
oil-bearing capacity.

In the southern part of Colombia and in Ecuador, the Andes are narrowed and consist of only two parts. The coastal Cordillera disappears and a hilly coastal plain appears in its place. The Central and Eastern Cordillera merge into one ridge.

Between the two mountain ranges of Ecuador lies a depression with a strip of faults, along which extinct and active volcanoes rise. The highest of them are the active volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m) and the extinct volcano Chimborazo (6310 m). The capital of Ecuador, Quito, is located within this tectonic depression at an altitude of 2700 m.

Active volcanoes also rise above the Eastern Cordillera of Southern Colombia and Ecuador - they are Cayambe (5790 m), Antisana (5705 m), Tunnuragua (5033 m) and Sangay (5230 m). The regular cones of these snow-capped volcanoes represent one of the most striking features of the Ecuadorian Andes.

The Northern Andes are characterized by a well-defined system of altitudinal belts. The lower mountains and coastal lowlands are humid and hot, with the highest average annual temperature South America (+ 2 ° C). At the same time, there are almost no seasonal differences. In the lowlands of Maracaibo, the average temperature in August is + 29 ° С, the average January temperature is + 27 ° С. The air is saturated with moisture, precipitation falls almost all year round, their annual amounts reach 2500-3000 mm, and on the Pacific coast -5000-7000 mm.

The entire lower belt of the mountains, called the "hot land" by the local population, is unfavorable for human life. High and constant air humidity and sweltering heat have a relaxing effect on the human body. The vast swamps are breeding grounds for various diseases. The entire lower mountain belt is occupied by a humid tropical forest, which in appearance does not differ from the forests of the eastern part of the mainland. It includes palms, ficus trees (among them - the rubber plant castilloa, cocoa tree, bananas, etc. On the coast, the forest is replaced by mangroves, and in the wetlands - vast and often impassable reed swamps.

Sugarcane and bananas, the main tropical crops in northern South America, are cultivated on the site of cleared tropical rainforests in many areas of the coast. In the oil-rich lowlands along the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean, large tracts of rainforest have been cleared, and in their place have appeared "forests" of countless oil rigs, numerous workers' settlements, big cities.

Above the lower hot mountain belt is the temperate zone of the Northern Andes (Pegga Heterlaya), which rises to an altitude of 2500-3000 m.This belt, like the lower one, is characterized by an even course of temperature throughout the year, but due to the altitude there are rather significant daily amplitudes. temperature. There is no intense heat characteristic of a hot belt. The average annual temperature ranges from +15 to + 20 ° С, the amount of precipitation and humidity is much less than in the lower zone. The amount of precipitation in closed high-mountain basins and valleys decreases especially strongly (no more than 1000 mm per year). The composition and appearance of the original vegetation cover of this belt differs greatly from the forests of the lower belt. Palm trees disappear and tree ferns and bamboos predominate, cinchona tree (StsNopa species) appears, a coca bush, whose leaves contain cocaine, and other species unknown in the forests of the "hot earth".

The temperate mountain belt is the most favorable for human life. Due to the monotony and moderate temperature, it is called the belt of eternal spring. A significant part of the population of the Northern Hades lives within its boundaries, there are the largest cities and agriculture is developed. Corn, tobacco and Colombia's most important crop, the coffee tree, are widespread.

The local population calls the next belt of mountains "cold land" (Pegga / g / a). Its upper boundary lies at an altitude of about 3800 m. Within this belt, a uniform temperature is maintained, but it is even lower than in the temperate zone (only +10, + 11 ° С). This belt is characterized by a high-mountainous gilea, consisting of undersized and twisted trees and shrubs. A variety of species, an abundance of epiphytic plants and lianas bring the highland gilea closer to the lowland tropical forest.

The main representatives of the flora of this forest are evergreen oaks, heather, myrtle, low-growing bamboos and tree ferns. Despite its high altitude, the cold belt of the Northern Andes is inhabited. Small settlements along the hollows rise to an altitude of 3500 m. The population, mainly Indian, cultivates corn, wheat and potatoes.

The next altitudinal belt of the Northern Andes is alpine. The local population knows it under the name "paramos". It ends at the border of eternal snows at an altitude of about 4500 m. Within this belt, the climate is harsh. At positive daytime temperatures in all seasons there are strong night frosts, snow storms and snowfalls. There is little precipitation, and evaporation is very strong. The paramos vegetation is unique and has a pronounced xerophytic appearance. It consists of sparsely growing tussock grasses, pillow-like, rosette-like or high (up to 5 m), heavily pubescent Compositae plants with bright inflorescences. On flat areas of the surface, large areas are occupied by moss bogs, while steep slopes are characterized by completely barren rocky spaces.

Above 4500 m, a belt of eternal snow and ice begins in the Northern Andes with a constantly negative temperature. Many massifs of the Andes have large alpine-type glaciers. They are most developed in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the Central and Western Cordillera of Colombia. The high peaks of the volcanoes Tolima, Chimborazo and Cotopaxi are covered with huge caps of snow and ice. There are also significant glaciers in the middle of the Cordillera de Merida ridge.

Central Andes

The Central Andes stretch for a huge distance from the state border between Ecuador and Peru in the north to 27 ° S latitude. on South. It is the widest part of the mountain system, reaching a width of 700 800 km within Bolivia.

In the south, the middle part of the Andes is occupied by plateaus, which are accompanied on both sides by the ranges of the Eastern and Western Cordilleras.

The Western Cordillera is an alpine chain with extinct and active volcanoes: Ojos del Salado (6880 m), Koropuna (6425 m), Huallagiri (6060 m), Misti (5821 m), etc. Within Bolivia, the Western Cordillera forms the main watershed of the Andes ...

In Northern Chile, from the Pacific Ocean, the Coastal Cordillera chain appears, reaching an altitude of 600-1000 m. The Atacama tectonic depression separates it from the Western Cordillera. The coastal Cordillera drops right into the ocean, forming a straight rocky coast, very inconvenient for anchorage of ships. Along the coast of Peru and Chile, rocky islands protrude from the ocean, where, as well as on the coastal cliffs, billions of Birds nest, depositing masses of guano - the most valuable natural fertilizer widely used in these countries.

The Andean plateaus, called by the local population of Chile and Argentina "punas", and Bolivia "altiplano", located between the Western and Eastern Cordillera, reach an altitude of 3000-4500 m. products. In places, there are depressions, partly occupied by lakes. An example is the basin of Lake Titicaca, located at an altitude of 3800 m.Somewhat southeast of this lake, at an altitude of 3700 m above sea level, at the bottom of a deep gorge cut into the surface of the plateau, and on its slopes lies main city Bolivia - La Paz is the highest capital city in the world.

The surface of the plateaus is crossed in different directions by high ridges, which exceed their average height by 1000-2000 m. Many of the ridge peaks are active volcanoes. As the watershed runs along the Western Cordillera, the plateaus are crossed by rivers flowing eastward to form deep valleys and wild gorges.

By its origin, the Pun-Altiplano zone corresponds to the middle massif, consisting of flattened folded structures of the Paleozoic age, which subsided at the beginning of the Cenozoic and did not undergo such a strong uplift in the Neogene as the Eastern and Western Cordillera.

The high Eastern Cordillera has a complex structure and forms the eastern edge of the Andes. Its western slope, facing the plateaus, is steep, the eastern one is gentle. Since the eastern slope of the Central Andes, in contrast to all other parts of the region, receives a significant amount of precipitation, it is characterized by deep erosional dissection.

Individual snow peaks rise above the ridge of the Eastern Cordillera, which reaches an average height of about 4000 m. The highest of them are Ilyampu (6485 m) and Ilimani (6462 m). There are no volcanoes on the Eastern Cordillera.

All over the Central Andes in Peru and Bolivia there are large deposits of non-ferrous, rare and radioactive metal ores. The coastal and Western Cordillera within Chile occupy one of the first places in the world in copper mining, in Atacama and on the Pacific coast there is the world's only deposit of natural saltpeter.

In the Central Andes, desert and semi-desert landscapes prevail. In the north, there is 200-250 mm of precipitation per year, with most of it falling in the summer. The highest average monthly temperature is + 26 ° С, the lowest is + 18 ° С. The vegetation has a sharply xerophytic appearance and consists of cacti, prickly pears, acacias and hard grasses.

To the south it becomes much drier. Within the Atacama Desert Basin and on the neighboring Pacific coast, less than 100 mm of precipitation falls annually, and in some places even less than 25 mm. In some places east of the Cordillera Coast, it never rains. In the coastal zone (up to an altitude of 400-800 m), the absence of rain is somewhat compensated by the high relative humidity of the air (up to 80%), fogs and dews, which usually occur in the "winter season" of the year. Some plants are adapted to exist on account of this moisture.

The cold Peruvian Current moderates the temperature on the coast. The average January from north to south varies from +24 to + 19 ° С, and the average July from + 19 to + 13 ° С.

Soils and vegetation are almost absent in the Atacama. Some ephemeral plants that do not form a closed cover appear in the fog season. Large areas are occupied by saline surfaces, on which vegetation does not develop at all. The slopes of the Western Cordillera, facing the Pacific Ocean, are also very dry. Deserts rise here to an altitude of 1000 m in the north and up to 3000 m in the south. The mountain slopes are covered with sparsely standing cacti and prickly pears. The annual variation of temperatures, precipitation within the Pacific hermitage and the relative humidity of the desert is comparatively few oases. In the central part of the Pacific coast, natural oases exist along the valleys of small rivers starting from glaciers. Most of them are located on the coast of Northern Peru, where sugarcane, cotton and coffee tree plantations are green among desert landscapes in irrigated and fertilized areas with guano. The largest cities, including the capital of Peru, Lima, are located in oases on the coast.

The deserts of the Pacific coast merge with the belt of mountainous semi-deserts known as dry puna. Dry puna extends to the southwestern part of the inner plateaus, to an altitude of 3000 to 4500 m, in some. places dropping and lower.

The amount of precipitation in dry pune is less than 250 mm, with a maximum of precipitation in summer. In the course of temperature, the continentality of the climate is manifested. The air is very hot during the day, but the cold winds are very warm time years can cause severe cold snap. In winter, there are frosts down to -20 ° C, but the average monthly temperature is positive. The average temperature of the warmest months is +14, + 15 ° С. In all periods of the year, there is a great difference in temperatures between day and night. Precipitation falls mainly in the form of rain and hail, but there are also snowfalls in winter, although snow cover does not form.

The vegetation is very sparse. Dwarf shrubs predominate, among which representatives are called tola, which is why the entire landscape of dry puna is often called tola. Some cereals are mixed with them, such as reed grass, feather grass and various lichens. There are also cacti. Saline areas are even poorer in plants. They mainly grow wormwood and ephedra.
In the east and north of the Central Andes, the annual rainfall is gradually increasing, although other features of the climate persist. An exception is the area adjacent to Lake Titicaca. The huge water mass of the lake (area over 8300 km2, depth up to 304 m) has a very tangible effect on the climatic conditions of the surrounding area. In the lakeside region, temperature fluctuations are not so sharp and the amount of precipitation is higher than in other parts of the plateau. Due to the fact that the amount of precipitation increases in the east up to 800 mm, and in the north even up to 1000 mm, the vegetation becomes richer and more diverse, the mountainous semi-desert turns into a mountain steppe, which the local population calls "pune".

The puna vegetation is characterized by a variety of grasses, especially fescue, feather grass and reed grass. A very widespread species of feather grass, called by the local population "ichu", forms hard tussocks that are rarely sitting. In addition, various cushion-like shrubs grow in the pune. In some places, there are also some undersized trees.

The Puns occupy vast territories in the Central Andes. In Peru and Bolivia, especially along the shores of Lake Titicaca and in the most humid valleys, before the arrival of the Spaniards, they were inhabited by cultured Indian peoples who formed the Inca state. Until now, the ruins of ancient Inca structures are still preserved, paved stone slabs roads and remnants of irrigation systems. The ancient city of Cuzco in Peru at the foot of the Eastern Cordillera was the capital of the Inca state.

The modern population of the inner highlands of the Andes consists mainly of the Quechua Indians, whose ancestors formed the basis of the Inca state. Quechuas are engaged in irrigated agriculture, tame and breed llamas.

Farming is practiced at high altitudes. Planting of potatoes and sowing of some cereals can be found up to an altitude of 3500-3700 m, quinoa is grown even higher - an annual plant from the family of hamsters, which gives a large yield of small seeds that make up the main food of the local population. Around the big cities (La Paz, Cuzco), the surface of the pune has been transformed into a patchwork landscape, where fields alternate with groves of eucalyptus imported by the Spaniards and thickets of gorse and other shrubs.

On the shores of Lake Titicaca, the Aymara people live, engaged in fishing and making various products from the reed growing on the low shores of the lake.
Above 5,000 m in the south and 6,000 m in the north, temperatures are negative throughout the year. Glaciation is negligible due to the dryness of the climate; only in the Eastern Cordillera, which receives more rainfall, there are large glaciers.

The landscapes of the Eastern Cordillera differ significantly from those of the rest of the Central Andes. Humid winds bring significant amounts of moisture from the Atlantic Ocean in summer. Partly through through valleys, it penetrates the western slope of the Eastern Cordillera and the adjacent parts of the plateaus, where abundant "cages" fall out. Therefore, the lower parts of the mountain slopes up to an altitude of 1000-1500 m are covered with dense tropical forests with palms and cinchona trees. Sugar cane, coffee, cocoa and various tropical fruits are grown in the valleys within this belt. Low-growing evergreen mountain forests grow up to an altitude of 3000 m - dense thickets of bamboo and ferns with lianas. Higher thickets of bushes and high-mountainous steppes rise. In the through river valleys, surrounded by fields and groves of eucalyptus, Indian villages huddle. And in one of the valleys belonging to the Amazon basin, on the eastern slope of the Cordillera, there are the ruins of an ancient Inca fortress, created during a fierce struggle with the Spanish conquerors - the famous Machu Picchu. Its territory has also been turned into a museum-reserve.

Chilean-Argentine Andes.

In the subtropical zone between 27 and 42 ° S lat. within Chile and Argentina, the Andes narrow and consist of only one mountain range, but reach their greatest height.

A strip of the low plateau of the Coastal Cordillera stretches along the coast of the Pacific Ocean, serving as an extension of the Coastal Cordillera of the Central Andes. Its average heights are 800 m, individual peaks rise up to 2000 m. Deep river valleys divide it into table plateaus, which abruptly drop off to the Pacific Ocean. Behind. The coastal Cordillera lies a parallel tectonic depression of the Central, or Longitudinal, valley of Chile. It is an orographic continuation of the Atacama Basin, but is separated from it by the transverse spurs of the Andes. Such spurs of the main ridge divide the valley into a series of isolated depressions. The height of the bottom of the valley in the north is about 700 m, in the south it drops to 100-200 m. Isolated cones of ancient volcanoes rise above its hilly surface, reaching several hundred meters of relative height. The valley is the most populated region of Chile and is home to the country's capital, Santiago.

From the east, the Central Valley is bounded by the high chain of the Main Cordillera, along the ridge of which the border between Chile and Argentina runs. In this part of the Andes are composed of highly folded Mesozoic sediments and volcanic rocks and reach an enormous height and integrity of the uplift. Above the wall of the main ridge are the highest peaks of the Andes - Aconcagua (6960 m), Mercedario (6770 m), active volcanoes Tupungato (6800 m), Milo (5223 m). Above 4000 m, the mountains are covered with snow and ice, their slopes are almost steep and inaccessible. The entire strip of mountains, including also the Central Valley, is subject to seismic and volcanic phenomena. Especially frequent and destructive earthquakes occur in Central Chile. A catastrophic earthquake struck Chile in 1960. Repeated tremors reached 12 points. The waves caused by the earthquake crossed the Pacific Ocean and hit the shores of Japan with great force.

In the coastal part of the Chilean Andes, the climate is subtropical, with dry summers and wet winters. The area of ​​distribution of this climate covers the coast between 29 and 37 ° S. sh., the Central Valley and the lower parts of the western slopes of the Main Cordillera. In the north, a transition to semi-deserts is planned, and in the south, an increase in precipitation and a gradual disappearance of the summer drought period signify a transition to conditions of an oceanic climate of temperate latitudes.

With distance from the coast, the climate becomes more continental and drier than on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. In Valparaiso, the temperature of the coldest month is + 11 ° С, and the warmest + 17, + 18 ° С, seasonal temperature amplitudes are small. In the Central Valley, they are more noticeable. In Santiago, the average temperature of the coldest month is +7, + 8 ° С, and the warmest + 20 ° С. There is little precipitation, their number increases from north to south and from east to west. In Santiago, about 350 mm falls, in Valdivia - 750 mm. Farming in these areas requires artificial irrigation. Towards the south, the annual precipitation increases rapidly and the differences in their distribution between summer and winter are almost erased. On the western slopes of the Main Cordillera, precipitation increases, but on its eastern slope, they again become very small.

The soil cover is very variegated. The most common are typical brown soils typical of dry subtropical regions. In the Central Valley, dark-colored soils are developed, reminiscent of chernozems.

Natural vegetation has been greatly destroyed, since in the middle part of Chile, almost the entire population of the country lives, which is mainly engaged in agriculture. Therefore, most of the land suitable for plowing is occupied by crops of various crops. Natural vegetation is characterized by a predominance of thickets of evergreen shrubs, reminiscent of the maquis of Southern Europe or the chaparral of North America.

Forests in the past covered the slopes of the Andes up to an altitude of 2000-2500 m. On the eastern dry slopes, the upper border of the forest lies 200 m lower than on the more humid western ones. Now the forests have been decimated and the slopes of the Andes and the Coastal Cordillera are bare. Woody vegetation is found mainly in the form of artificial plantations in settlements and along fields. On the conical volcanoes that rise from the bottom of the valley within Santiago, you can see groves of eucalyptus, pines and araucaria, plane trees, beeches, in the undergrowth - thickets of brightly blooming geraniums and drakes. In these plantings, the local flora is combined with the species imported from Europe.

Above 2500 m in the Andes there is a belt of mountain meadows, into which narrow strips of low-growing forests and bushes go along the valleys. The vegetation cover of mountain meadows contains species of those genera of plants that are also found in alpine meadows of the Old World: buttercup, saxifrage, oxalis, primrose, etc. Some shrubs are also common, for example, currants and barberries. There are areas of peat bogs with typical bog flora. Mountain meadows are used as summer pastures.

Cultivated vegetation is similar to that of the corresponding climatic regions of Europe and North America. Most of the subtropical crops were brought to South America from the Mediterranean countries of Europe. This vine, olive tree, citrus and other fruit trees. The largest part of the plowed area is occupied by wheat, much less - by corn. On the slopes of the mountains, the peasants small areas grow potatoes, beans, peas, lentils, onions, artichokes and peppers. In the most convenient areas at the place of deforestation, there are artificial tree plantations.

Southern (Patagonian) Andes.

In the extreme south, within the temperate zone, the Andes are lowered and fragmented. Coastal Cordillera south of 42 ° S sh. turns into thousands of mountainous islands of the Chilean archipelago. The longitudinal valley of Central Chile in the south sinks and then disappears under the waters of the ocean. It is continued by the system of bays and straits separating the islands of the Chilean archipelago from the mainland. The main Cordillera is also in decline. Within southern Chile, its height rarely exceeds 3000 m, and in the extreme south it does not even reach 2000 m. Many fjords cut into the coast, cutting the western slope of the mountains into a number of isolated peninsular sections. The continuation of the fjords is often large glacial lakes, the hollows of which cross a low ridge and, reaching its eastern Argentine slope, facilitate overcoming the mountains. The entire area along the Pacific Ocean is very reminiscent of the Norwegian coast of the Scandinavian Peninsula, although the fjords of the Chilean coast are not as grandiose as the Norwegian ones.

Glacial landforms are widespread in the South Andes. In addition to fjords and glacial lakes, one can find large circuses, valleys with a typical trough-shaped profile, hanging valleys, moraine ridges, which often serve as dams for lakes, etc. Forms of ancient glaciation are combined with powerful modern glaciation and the development of glacial processes.

The climate of Southern Chile is humid, with little differences in summer and winter temperatures, very unfavorable for humans. The coast and western slopes of the mountains are constantly influenced by strong westerly winds, bringing huge amounts of rainfall. With an average of up to 2000-3000 mm in some areas of the western coast, up to 6000 mm of precipitation falls per year. On the eastern slope, leeward with respect to the western air currents, the amount of precipitation decreases sharply. Constant strong winds and rains lasting more than 200 days a year, low clouds, fogs and moderate temperatures throughout the year are characteristic features of the climate of southern Chile. On the coast and the islands, constant storms rage, bringing huge waves to the coast.

With an average winter temperature of +4, + 7 ° С, the average summer temperature does not exceed + 15 ° С, and in the extreme south it decreases to + 10 ° С. Only on the eastern slope of the Andes do the amplitudes of fluctuations between the average summer and winter temperatures increase slightly. At high altitudes in the mountains, freezing temperatures prevail throughout the year; on the highest peaks of the eastern slope, frosts persist for a long time down to -30 ° C. Due to these features of the climate, snowy, the border in the mountains lies very low: in the north of the Patagonian Andes at about 1500m, in the south - below 1000m. Modern glaciation occupies a very large area, especially at 48 ° S latitude, where a thick ice cover lies on an area of ​​over 20 thousand km2. This is the so-called Patagonian ice sheet. From it to the west and east powerful valley glaciers diverge, the ends of which lie much below the snow boundary, sometimes near the ocean itself. Some of the glacial tongues of the eastern slope end in large lakes.

Glaciers and lakes feed a large number of rivers flowing into the Pacific and partly into the Atlantic Ocean. The river valleys are deeply cut into the surface. In some cases, they cross the Andes, and rivers starting on the eastern slope flow into the Pacific Ocean. Rivers are meandering, full-flowing and stormy, their valleys usually consist of lake-like expansions, alternating with narrow rapids.
The slopes of the Patagonian Andes are covered with moisture-loving subantarctic forests, consisting of tall trees and shrubs, among which evergreen species predominate: at 42 ° S. sh. there is an array of araucaria forests, and mixed forests are spread to the south. Due to their density, abundance of species, multi-tier, variety of lianas, mosses and lichens, they resemble low-latitude forests. The soils under them are of the type of burozems, in the south - podzolic. There are many swamps in flat areas.

The main representatives of the flora of the forests of the Southern Andes are species, evergreen and deciduous southern beech, magnolias, giant conifers, bamboos and tree ferns. Many plants bloom with beautiful, fragrant flowers, especially decorating the forest in spring and summer. The branches and trunks of trees entwine the vines and cover a lush moss and lichen cover. Mosses and lichens, together with the leaf litter, cover the soil surface.

With the rise in the mountains, forests are thinned and their species composition becomes impoverished. In the extreme south, forests are gradually replaced by tundra-type vegetation.
On the eastern slope of the mountains, facing the Patagonian plateau, precipitation falls much less than in the west.

There grow forests that are less dense and poorer in species composition than on the Pacific coast. The main forest-forming species of these forests are beeches, which are mixed with some double ones. At the foot of the mountains, forests turn into dry steppes and shrubs of the Patagonian plateau.

The forests of the Southern Andes contain huge reserves of high-quality timber. However, until now they are used unevenly. Araucaria forests were the most deforested. In the southern, least accessible areas, there are still significant tracts of forests, almost untouched by man.

Tierra del Fuego.

Tierra del Fuego is called an archipelago of dozens of large and small islands located off the southern coast of South America between 53 and 55 ° S. sh. and owned by Chile and Argentina. The islands are separated from the mainland and from one another by narrow, winding straits. The easternmost and largest island is called Tierra del Fuego or the Big Island.

Geologically and geomorphologically, the archipelago is a continuation of the Andes and the Patagonian plateau. The coasts of the western islands are rocky and deeply indented by fjords, the eastern ones are flat and slightly dissected.

The entire western part of the archipelago is occupied by mountains up to 2400 m high. Ancient and modern glacial forms in the form of heaps of boulders, trough valleys, "sheep's foreheads" and dammed moraine lakes play an important role in the relief of the mountains. Mountain ranges dissected by glaciers rise from the ocean itself, narrow winding fjords cut into their slopes. In the eastern part of the largest island, there is a vast plain.

The climate of Tierra del Fuego is very humid, with the exception of the extreme east. The archipelago is constantly exposed to the harsh and humid southwestern winds. Precipitation in the west falls up to 3000 mm per year, and drizzling rains prevail, which last 300-330 days a year. In the east, the amount of precipitation drops sharply.

Temperatures are low throughout the year, and seasonal fluctuations are negligible. We can say that the Tierra del Fuego archipelago is close to the tundra in summer temperature, and to the subtropics in winter.
The climatic conditions of Tierra del Fuego are favorable for the development of glaciation. The snow border in the west lies at an altitude of 500 m, and the glaciers drop directly into the ocean, forming icebergs. The mountain ranges are covered with ice, and only a few sharp peaks rise above its cover.

Forests of evergreen and deciduous trees are widespread in a narrow coastal strip, mainly in the western part of the archipelago. Especially characteristic are southern beeches, canelo, magnolia, blooming with white fragrant flowers, and some conifers. The upper boundary of the forest vegetation and the snow boundary almost merge with each other. In places above 500 m, and sometimes near the sea (in the east), forests are replaced by scanty subantarctic mountain meadows without flowering plants and peat bogs. In areas where constant strong winds blow, sparse and low twisted trees and shrubs grow in groups with "flag-like" crowns inclined in the direction of the prevailing winds.

The fauna of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and the Southern Andes is approximately the same and rather peculiar. Along with guanacos, the blue fox, fox-like, or magellanic, dog and many rodents are common there. The endemic rodent tukotuko living underground is characteristic. Birds are numerous: parrots, hummingbirds.
Sheep are the most common pets. Sheep breeding is the main occupation of the population.

Environmental problems in the Andes area.

Careless use of natural resources.

Among the minerals mined in the Andes, there are ores of ferrous and non-ferrous metals (copper, tin, tungsten, molybdenum, silver, antimony, lead and zinc) of magmatic and metamorphic origin. Also platinum, gold, precious stones are mined there. In the eastern highlands, large deposits of zirconium, beryl, bismuth, titanium, uranium, nickel are associated with the release of igneous rocks; deposits of iron and manganese - with outcrops of metamorphic stumps; deposits of bauxite containing aluminum - with weathering crust. Deposits of oil, natural gas and coal are confined to the platform depressions, intermontane and foothill depressions. In a desert climate, during the biochemical decomposition of seabird droppings, deposits of Chilean saltpeter were formed.

Also, the use of forest resources is carried out at a fairly fast pace, while at such a pace that they are no longer renewed. Three main problems in the field of forest protection are: deforestation for pasture and agricultural land illegal deforestation by the local population to sell wood or to use it as fuel for heating houses, due to economic reasons.

Countries in the Andean zone are faced with a number of environmental problems in coastal and marine areas. First of all, these are large volumes of fish catch, which is actually not controlled in any way, which poses a threat to the extinction of many species of fish and marine animals, given that the catch is constantly increasing. The development of ports and transport has led to serious pollution of coastal areas, where landfills, equipment and fuel for ships are often located. But the most serious damage is caused by the release of sewage waste, as well as industrial waste into the sea, which negatively affects coastal zones, flora and fauna.

It must be said that it is rather difficult to obtain sufficiently reliable information on greenhouse gas emissions into the atmosphere, since statistical data on this issue are either absent or do not seem entirely reasonable. However, it is well known that industrial production and power generation are responsible for 50% of air pollution. In addition, there is a tendency to abandon promising direction in the use of renewable energy in favor of combustion of fuels, both in power generation and in the transport sector. The largest share of air pollution in South America and in the Andes, in particular, occurs in thermal power plants and factories for the production of steel and iron, and pollution from transport accounts for 33% of all emissions.

The most active industrial activity took place in the territory of the pampa, an area of ​​vast green steppes. Here are concentrated mines, oil wells, smelters and oil refining industry, which significantly pollute the surrounding area. Oil refineries are particularly damaging to waters and underground springs by contaminating them with heavy metals such as mercury and lead and other chemicals. Oil refining activities in Salta have led to soil erosion, deterioration of water quality, negatively affecting the agriculture of the regions. The southern territories of Patagonia have been significantly affected by mining activities in mountainous areas, which adversely affected the flora and fauna of the area, which in turn negatively affected tourism, which is one of the most important sources of income for local budgets.

Since ancient times, the states of South America have been largely agrarian countries. Therefore, soil degradation is a serious problem for the economy. Soil deterioration is caused by erosion, pollution from improper use of fertilizers, deforestation and poor management of agricultural land. For example, the production of soybeans for export forced the Argentine Ministry of Agriculture to expand the use of new technologies, which led to pesticide contamination of large areas in the north of the country. The misuse of pastures has led to land desertification in the Argentine steppes, where 35% of fertile land has been lost. Improper distribution of land and economic instability leads to re-use of land for quick profit, and this pattern is observed everywhere throughout the Andes. If appropriate measures are not taken to protect land resources, land degradation will continue and countries will face serious agricultural difficulties.

The Andes area is richly inhabited by various biological species, but many animals and birds are under threat due to the spread of agriculture and vigorous human activity in coastal zones. Thus, over 50% of birds and mammals are endangered. Although many countries use a large number of nature reserves, many natural areas insufficiently assessed in terms of the degree of risk. Moreover, many protected areas are such only on paper and are practically not protected in any way.

Possible ways out of the problem.

The main environmental problems of the Andes are:

• degradation of soil and coastal zones
• illegal deforestation and land desertification
• destruction of biological species
• pollution of groundwater and atmosphere
• waste recycling problems and heavy metal pollution

The main task of the governments of Latin America today is to improve the economic situation in their countries in order to cope with environmental problems. The first priority is to eliminate environmental problems in urban areas, where more than 1/3 of the population of the countries live. Improving sanitary conditions, solving transport problems and problems with poverty and unemployment - these are the directions in which the authorities need to act. Conservation of biological diversity is the second most important task.

Gradually Latin America is beginning to realize the need to protect its natural resources. But further implementation of the government program on environmental protection is possible only after the economic situation in the countries improves.

However, we must not forget that the forests located in Latin America, especially in the Amazon basin, are, and have long been recognized, the lungs of our planet, and how forests are cut down and burned are to blame not only for the poor countries of Latin America, but also for rich countries, cold-bloodedly pumping out of bowels of these countries natural resources, not caring about the future, living according to the principle: "After us, even a flood."

The Andes Mountains are a unique mountain system that stretches across almost the entire territory of South America. The Andes mountains are the longest mountain system, its length is 9 thousand km. as well as one of the highest, but still not the highest, but this is still, because the mountains are still growing. We look at the famous Andes mountains. ( 11 photo)

The Andes Mountains completely, from the north and from the west, rounded South America, located both along the coast of the Atlantic Ocean. The Andes mountains are relatively young, the history of their origin dates back to the Jurassic period. The Andes Mountains are one of the largest mountain systems formed in the last major era of the geological history of the Earth.

As a result of the collision of three lithospheric plates, Nazca, Antarctic and South American, the first two sank under the larger South American, even in the history of the formation of mountains we see a distinctive feature, usually the collision of no more than two plates serves as the origin. Surprisingly, seismic activity in the Andes continues to be traced to this day, that is, the mountains are actively growing. And moreover, their growth proceeds more intensively than all other mountain systems, which in one way or another, but increase in size.

Thus, in a year, the Andes grow by more than 10 cm, who knows, perhaps they will soon become the highest mountains in the world, but for now they occupy a dominant position. A the height of the Andes mountains is 6962 meters, the peak of the Andes mountains is the peak called Aconcagua. The average width of the mountains is 400 km, the widest point is 750 km. The Andes mountains are conventionally divided into three zones: Northern, Central and Southern Andes.

To all the other advantages of such impressive mountains, one more can be attributed, the Andes mountains are a conditional division line, they share the collection of water. The Andes are also the source of many large rivers and lakes, it is here that the famous river takes its source, which then spills over hundreds of kilometers. The Andes mountains have their own small lakes located right between the slopes, which either dry up or fill up again, depending on the season and precipitation. Andes mountains coordinates 32 ° 39'10 ″ S sh. 70 ° 00'40 ″ W d. (G) (O) (Y) 32 ° 39′10 ″ S sh. 70 ° 00'40 ″ W etc.

Due to the different climatic conditions in which the Andes are located, the mountains have a different and dissimilar structure. So in the northern part of the Andes there are a large number of volcanoes, some of them are still considered active, and the central part is characterized by the sources of many rivers, the southern part of the Andes is characterized by low peaks and large glacial massifs, stretching almost over most of this mountain system, ice begins here already from a height of 1,400 meters.

Due to its impressive size, the Andes are located in 5 climatic zones at the same time: equatorial, subequatorial, tropical, subtropical and temperate. The Andes also penetrate 7 states of South America, the Andes are located on the territory of: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Moreover, each of the countries is proud of the location of one or another section of the mountains on its territory.

Moreover, the Andes mountains are also a rich reserve of various natural resources, on the territory of the Andes there are large deposits of non-ferrous metals: tin, lead, copper, zinc, etc. There is also an active mining of iron, sodium nitrate, but gold deposits are of particular importance , silver, platinum and in some places precious stones (emeralds). The Andes also store oil and gas reserves. In general, the Andes are a real natural treasure for.

Today, in the days of active tourism, when everyone can visit any corner of the planet, if desired, climbing the Andes is gaining wide popularity. In some of the countries where the Andes are located, there are specialized centers that will prepare and guide you to admire the majestic slopes of the mountains. Of course, you will not climb to a height of 6 km, but I think you don't need such an unearthly height. To enjoy all the delights of the picturesque view, 1.5 km will be enough. It cannot be said that the Andes would be distinguished by special climbing difficulties; some sections can be climbed without special climbing equipment.

Who would have thought that the components of agriculture can be grown in the mountains. Today, at low mountain heights, up to 3, 8 km. such crops as coffee, tobacco, cotton, corn, wheat, potatoes, etc. are actively cultivated and produced. Practice shows that on the moist and nutritious lands of the Andes, plants feel no worse than on the dry soil of the plains.

Throughout the history of mankind, people associate mountains with the even supernatural and powerful. Many writers have used the mountains as inspiration. The Andes Mountains are a unique creation of nature, which is already known to the whole world, and to which thousands of tourists rush. We advise you to look at this miracle of nature. Stay with us and enjoy your travels.

I have always been in awe of the sky-propping mountain peaks bathed in sunlight. Mighty, monumental, unshakable Atlanteans breathing tranquility. And if I am faced with a choice between the sea, the forest and huge stone masses, I will not hesitate to prefer the latter. Better than mountains can only be mountains!

And there are few places on the planet where I have experienced such inspiration as near the majestic Andes. Part of the Cordillera mountain system, which divided the planet in half from the northernmost tips of Canada almost to Antarctica itself, the Andes proudly bear the responsibility to keep the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans from mixing in the southern hemisphere. The highest, longest, youngest mountains in the world. Rising to a height of almost 7000 meters, strewn with sleeping and waking volcanoes, this huge prehistoric creature stretches for 9000 kilometers and plunges its southern edge into rough waters, forming an intricate pattern of straits and glaciers, where ships died for centuries. The Andes keep many secrets, mysteries and dangers: somewhere the gold of the Incas is hidden, somewhere the planes died.

This is where I come back every time an airline like Iberia, Lufthansa or Turkish Airways announces a sale.

Northern Andes

In the north, the Andes rise above the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador, they have a difficult character: the altitude of 4500-6000 meters and changeable weather require special skills from the tourist. But you can choose an easier option: rent a car and go around the foothills of volcanoes and lakes, or take a ride on the longest cable car in the world (almost 2 kilometers) Teleferico de Merida in Venezuela.

Central Andes

In the territory of Peru and Bolivia, the Andes keep in their depths vast and fertile plateaus on which the Inca cities were once built. But for me the main treasures of these places are alpine lakes, full-flowing like Titicaca and turned into salt marshes like. You can spend some amazing days studying the customs of the people of Taquile on Titicaca, where men knit from colored wool. Or spending the night on the reed islands of the Uros under the huge and bright stars at an altitude of 3800 meters. Or sweeping with the breeze through a huge pit of salt. Or coming up with the most incredible compositions for photography in a place where there is no perspective. And, of course, enjoying the most memorable sunsets of your life.

South Andes, Carretera Austral

A long and narrow strip of land called Chile and the endless Argentine pampas stretch along the Andean ridges, the tops of which are clinging to clouds. And they cling in the literal sense: the rain clouds driven by the Pacific winds cannot overcome the mountain barrier and shed precious moisture on the southern Chilean side (northern Chile, with the world's driest desert, the Atacama, is not so lucky). The famous road built in the mid-1970s under Pinochet, the Carretera Austral, or "southern road", winds here. This is one of the most picturesque and interesting routes that I have ever traveled, it makes it possible for 1240 kilometers to fully enjoy the beauty of the mountain peaks, turbulent rivers, azure lakes and proud pines.

It is better to travel during the summer months (December to February), as ferry crossings are closed at other times of the year and you will not be able to enjoy all the beauty of the trip. Therefore, feel free to plan a big vacation for the January holidays and then, in addition to the famous South Road, you can see the huge Perito Moreno glacier, breathe in the famous Patagonian winds and find out why Tierra del Fuego is called that. By the way, the Northern and Central Andes are friendly to travelers all year round.

Where to start

The starting point of Carretera Austral is the Chilean city of Puerto Montt. It is a cute little village imbued with a European spirit, from where tourists, admiring the old mahogany cathedral, head to the Lake District, to the Villarrica volcano or to the island of Chiloe. Here you have to decide in what way you will conquer the South Road: the most daring go hitchhiking or on bicycles, and the rest rent a car.

From Chiloe Island, you can take a ferry to the town of Chaiten and move either north or south.

Another option is to start in the south, from the village of Villa O "Higgins, which can be reached by ferry from Argentina, which runs several times a week from November to March and takes only pedestrians or cyclists on board (it costs about $ 60, or 40,000 pesos) , or entrusting itself to the care of a travel company, which will not only arrange for delivery by the ferry by bus, but will also offer to see the glaciers on the lake "on the way" (the tour will cost from $ 130).

What to take with you

1. Regardless of which way of transportation you choose, you need to have a supply of food with you, you will find supermarkets only in relatively large settlements, in other settlements there are only village shops with a minimum set of products.
2. Don't forget the medication and essentials you need (from plaster to toothpaste and repellents). Carretera Austral is not a place where you can take only your passport and credit card.
3. Comfortable clothing and footwear are a must, as there are so many stunning and inviting places to explore!
4. There is enough cash in local currency (Chilean pesos), you will not find ATMs until Coyaic, and cards are not accepted anywhere.

If you decide to hike or bike

Since the distances between settlements and campsites are long, you will need:

• tent,
• sleeping bag (even in summer the nights are cold in the mountains),
• gas-burner,
• a pot and dishes,
• and other camping equipment.

You can rent everything you need, including a bicycle, in Puerto Monte (the choice is very scarce, and the prices are very high) or in Santiago, where there are a huge number of rentals with good bicycles. To do this, you will need to present a passport and a bank card to hold the deposit (depending on the rental period from $ 250). The rental price starts at $ 30 per day or $ 120 per week.

If you decide to travel by car

You can rent a car in Puerto Monte or, as I did, in Santiago (in this case, you will need to lay a few days to drive along the magnificent highway for almost 1000 kilometers, stopping at wineries and visiting national parks).

1. Prepare, in addition to your usual license, international license (some rental agencies do not issue a car without them) and, of course, a bank card with a sufficient amount in the account to block the deposit.
2. Explore the sites of rental offices to choose the most suitable option. Do not watch small cars, only four-wheel drive! If possible, give up the options for cars that seem to have just come out of the passenger compartment, choose a car that has passed the baptism of fire, because small stones will inevitably fly on the gravel road.
3. South of Carretera, the Austral Andes are full of many magnificent landscapes, for example, you can admire the famous Fitzroy peak and the beauty of the Torres del Paine National Park. But, since some parts of the country are occupied by impassable mountains, part of the empty will have to be done through the territory of Argentina. To do this, you will need special documents for the car. Be sure to contact the rental agency in advance - the documents for crossing the border take several days, and be prepared for the fact that you will be charged a fee of $ 200 for registration.
4. Gas stations along the way are rare, so take every opportunity to replenish your gasoline supplies.

So, you've saddled a four-wheeled beast (for example, I got a red pickup with someone playing tic-tac-toe with a nail on the hood) and are ready for adventure.

By sea

At the very beginning of the journey, three ferries will be waiting for you, which will go around the inaccessible, densely forested mountain slopes by the sea (see the map below). The first ferry departs from La Arena every hour and costs about $ 15 (10,000 pesos) per car. In half an hour you will reach the peninsula, which can only be reached by sea. The second ferry departs from the settlement of Ornopien (it has several shops and you can stay overnight), located at the southern end of the peninsula, twice a day - in the morning and in the afternoon. It is better to check the schedule in Puerto Monte. This ferry takes 5 hours, a ticket for it costs $ 54 (35,000 pesos), and this price includes the third ferry, which departs when all passengers of the second ferry have safely overcome 10 kilometers of gravel road.

By land

As a result of all the sea voyages, during which the majestic mountains, forests and waterfalls will float by, you will find yourself in the village of Kaleto Gonzalo. From here, boldly head south, stopping in scenic spots and climbing deep into the mountains. Your travel speed will average 50 km / h, so don't miss the signs for recommended hiking trails to especially beautiful and amazing natural treasures and numerous national parks.

Carretera Austral ends with a dead end in the village of Villa O "Higgins, from where you can ferry to Argentina (only those who travel on foot or by bike are taken on the ferry), or return back if you are traveling by car.

Where to go

All along the South Road you will find several opportunities to cross the border with Argentina: at the village of Santa Lucia, next to the Lago las Torres park, the town of Coyachi and before reaching Cochrane. I would highly recommend the latter option, as you will not only be able to see almost the entire Carretera Austral, but also drive past the magnificent lake, which in the Chilean part is called Lago General Carrera, and in the Argentine part - Lago Buenos Aires.

Tourist infrastructure

You can spend the night in campings, which are scattered along the entire Carretera Austral, or in settlements. Almost all locals rent rooms from $ 10 to $ 55 (8000-35000 pesos) for a night for two and will be happy to feed you breakfast (and not always at an additional cost). Free campings are just cleared areas. Those equipped with a toilet, hot shower and awnings will cost from $ 5 to $ 10 per night.

For example, on January 2, I stopped in the picturesque village of Via Cerro Castillo, where the whole large family of owners gathered for dinner in the evening. Despite my limited knowledge of Spanish, I was invited to share a meal with everyone and enjoy a wonderful evening. The men were cooking a traditional dish- they roasted a young lamb on the cross - a la cruz, and the women cut fresh vegetables and herbs. It was the tastiest lamb I have ever tasted in my life. And the glare of the fire on their open and benevolent faces, songs to the accordion and majestic mountains under the canopy of the starry sky were forever engraved in my memory.

Catering establishments are found only in the largest settlements: Ornopirene, Koyaki, Cochrane. Elsewhere, the best you can count on are small grocery stores. I usually tried to have a hearty breakfast and dinner where I slept (if the owners did not cook, I asked permission to use the kitchen), and during the day, pre-prepared sandwiches helped me out.

Southern Andes, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego

On the western edge of the Patagonian steppes rise the Southern Andes. They are no longer as high as in the north, but that is why they are no less beautiful. Along the entire foothills of the mountains, there are delightful natural reserves, the main pearls of which are the giant Perito Moreno glacier, one of only two on planet Earth that does not shrink but grow, and the Torres del Paine Park, whose rugged beauty attracts travelers from all over the world. What miracles Patagonia has prepared and how to get to them is well written.

And further south, the red grass of Tierra del Fuego rustles in the wind, where, according to legend, the giants lived, and the Andes lower their tail strewn with peaks into the ocean, from which glaciers slide down in caps. Here, like the last stronghold of the mountains, Cape Horn rises from the water, landing on which is good luck. Between this lonely lighthouse outpost and Argentina, few ships and violent cold currents wander.

The Andes are many-sided and unpredictable, they fascinate and fall in love, seeing them at least once, you will come back again and again. After all, only the Andes can be better than mountains!

Longest mountain system

The Inca Empire in the Andes is one of the most mysterious disappeared states. The tragic fate of a highly developed civilization, which appeared in far from the most favorable natural conditions and died at the hands of illiterate aliens, still worries mankind.
The era of great geographical discoveries (XV-XVII centuries) made it possible for European adventurers to quickly and fabulously get rich in new lands. Most often cruel and unprincipled, the conquistadors rushed to America not for the sake of scientific discoveries and cultural exchange between civilizations.
The fact that the papal throne in 1537 recognized the Indians as spiritualized beings did not change anything in the methods of the conquistadors - they were not interested in theological disputes. By the time of the "humane" papal decision, the conquistador Francisco Pizarro had already executed the Inca emperor Atahualpa (1533), defeated the Inca army and seized the capital of the empire, the city of Cuzco (1536).
There is a version that at first the Indians mistook the Spaniards for gods. And it is quite possible that the main reason for this delusion was not the white skin of the aliens, not that they were riding on unseen animals, and not even that they possessed firearms. The Incas were struck by the incredible cruelty of the conquistadors.
At the first meeting of Pizarro and Atahualpa, the Spaniards who ambushed them killed thousands of Indians and captured the emperor, who did not expect anything like this. After all, the Indians, whom the Spaniards condemned for human sacrifice, believed that human life is the highest gift, and that is why human sacrifice to the gods was the highest form of worship. But in order to simply destroy thousands of people who did not come to war at all ?!
There is no doubt that the Incas could have put up serious resistance to the Spaniards. After the murder of the captive Atahualpa, for whom the Indians paid a monstrous ransom - almost 6 tons of gold, the conquistadors began to plunder the country, mercilessly melting the Inca jewelry into ingots. But the brother of Atahualpa Manco, appointed by them as the new emperor, instead of collecting gold for the invaders, fled and led the fight against the Spaniards. The last emperor, Tupac Amaru, viceroy of Peru, Francisco de Toledo, was able to execute only in 1572, and even after that, the leaders of new uprisings were called after him.
Little has survived from the Inca civilization to the present day - after the deaths of hundreds of thousands of Indians, both at the hands of the Spaniards and from work in mines, hunger, European epidemics, there was no one to maintain irrigation systems, high-altitude roads, beautiful buildings in order. The Spaniards destroyed a lot in order to get building material.
The country, whose inhabitants were accustomed to supply from public warehouses, in which there were no beggars and vagabonds, for many years after the arrival of the conquistadors became a zone of human disaster.

Nature

The Andes pass through all climatic zones, so the flora and fauna of these mountain ranges is very diverse.

Various theories determine the age of the Andes mountain system from 18 million years to several hundred million years. But, more importantly for the people living in the Andes, the process of the formation of these mountains is still ongoing.
Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, glaciers in the Andes do not stop. In 1835, Charles Darwin observed the eruption of the Osorno volcano from the island of Chiloe. The earthquake described by Darwin destroyed the cities of Concepcion and Talcahuano and claimed numerous casualties. Such events are not uncommon in the Andes.
For example, in 1970 a glacier in Peru buried the city of Yungai with almost all its inhabitants literally in seconds, killing about 20,000 people. In 2010, an earthquake in Chile claimed hundreds of lives, left millions homeless and caused colossal material damage. In general, serious disasters occur in the Andes with a frightening cyclicality - once every 10-15 years.
The most severe climate is noted on the central plateaus of the Andes, where precipitation, if it falls, is even in the summer in the form of snow. It is believed that these highlands are the most barren and driest in the world, which is fully explained by the combination of thin dry air, fierce winds and dazzling sun.
The Andes perform the function of an interoceanic watershed: rivers belonging to the Atlantic Ocean basin flow east of the Andes and many of them originate in the mountains; the Andes is the source of the Amazon itself, the largest river in the world. Rivers in the Pacific Basin are generally short and flow west of the Andes.
Also, the Andes, which are the longest in the world, are also a climatic barrier that isolates the Pacific coast of South America from the influence of the Atlantic Ocean, and most of the continent from the influence of the Pacific Ocean. As a result of the large extent of the Andes, their landscape parts differ significantly, according to various natural features they distinguish the Northern Andes (up to 5º S lat.), The Central Andes (5-28 "S) and the Southern Andes (28-41º30º S lat.). Another feature of this mountain system is a clearly pronounced altitudinal zonation, according to which three belts are distinguished - tierra caliente - the lower high-altitude forest belt, tierra fria - the upper forest belt and tierra elada - a belt with a harsh climate.
Depending on the distance from the equator and the height above sea level in the Andes, both equatorial, tropical and subtropical forests with their abundance of vegetation (palms, bananas, ficuses, cocoa trees, bamboos, evergreen trees and shrubs) and forests temperate climate... Subarctic forests and tundra vegetation are typical for high altitudes and southern latitudes. It is believed that many of the most important crops, such as tomatoes, potatoes, tobacco, are from the Andes.
There are many unique species in the fauna of the Andes. Thus, the Andean camels of the llama, alpaca, vigoni and guanaco are found nowhere else in the world. The Andes is home to over 900 species of amphibians, about 600 species of mammals and over 1,700 species of birds. There are many endemics among them.

general information

Andes, Andean Cordilleras- the longest mountain system in the world, the southern part of the Cordillera.

Location: bordering the continent of South America from the north and west

The states on whose territory the Andes are located: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina

The peoples inhabiting the Andes: Indians, Europeans, mestizos, African Americans, mulattoes, Asians

Languages: mainly Spanish, as well as Quechua, Aymara, Guarani and other languages ​​of Indian tribes

Religion: Mainly Catholic

Main seaports: Guayaquil (Ecuador), Valparaiso (Chile).

Major airports: Simon Bolivar International Airport (Caracas, Venezuela); El Dorado International Airport (Santa Fe de Bogota, Colombia), Mariscal Sucre International Airport (Quito, Ecuador), Jorge Chavez International Airport (Lima, Peru), El Alto International Airport (La Paz, Bolivia), Santiago International Airport (Chile).

The most important rivers: Orinoco, Marañon, Ucayali, Medeira, Pilcomayo, Bermejo, Parana, Rio Salado, Colorado, Rio Negro.

Largest lakes: Titicaca, Poopo.

Economy

The leading industry is mining: deposits of tungsten, silver, tin, oil are being developed (Peru, Bolivia, Venezuela, Chile); copper (Chile), gold and emeralds (Colombia), iron (Bolivia).

Agriculture: bananas (Ecuador, Colombia), potatoes, coffee (Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Ecuador), corn, tobacco, wheat, sugarcane, olives, grapes; sheep breeding, fishing on large lakes.

Climate and weather

Due to the large extent of the Andes, there is a huge variety of climates, this mountain system stretches over six climatic zones (equatorial, northern and southern subequatorial, southern tropical, subtropical and temperate).

Most of the precipitation (up to 820 mm per year) falls from May to November.

In high-mountainous Quito, the temperature is kept within the range of + 13 ° C ... + 15 ° C, but there are great differences between day and night.

Precipitation (up to 1200 mm per year) - from September to May.

In La Paz, the average monthly temperature in November is about + 1 ° C, in July - about + 7 ° C.
In Chile, the average temperature in the north of the country is from + 12 ° C to + 22 ° C, in the south - from + 3 ° C to + 16 ° C.

sights

■ Lake Titicaca;
■ Lauca National Park;
■ Chiloe National Park;

■ Cape Horn National Park;
■ Santa Fe de Bogota: Catholic churches of the 16th-18th centuries, National Museum of Colombia;
■ Quito: Cathedral, Museum musical instruments, Museum Del Banco Central;
■ Cuzco: Cathedral of Cusco, Church of La Campa nha, Haitun Rumiyok street (remnants of Inca buildings);
■ Lima: archaeological sites of Huaca Huallamarca and Huaca Pucllana, the archbishop's palace, church and monastery of San Francisco;
■ Archaeological complexes: Machu Picchu, Pachacamak, the ruins of the city of Karal, Tambomachai, Pukapukara, Kenko, Pisak, Ollantaytambo, Moray, the ruins of Pikilyakta.

Curious facts

■ The capital of Bolivia, La Paz is the highest capital in the world. It is located at an altitude of 3600 m above sea level.
■ The ruins of the city of Caral - temples, amphitheaters, houses and pyramids - are located 200 km north of the city of Lima (Peru). It is believed that Caral belonged to the oldest civilization in America and was built about 4000-4500 years ago. Archaeological excavations have shown that the city traded with vast areas of the continent of South America. It is especially interesting that archaeologists have not found a single evidence of military conflicts for about a thousand years in the history of Karal.
■ One of the most mysterious landmarks in the world is the monumental archaeological complex of Sacsayhuaman, located northwest of Cusco, at an altitude of approximately 3700 meters above sea level. The eponymous fortress of this complex is attributed to the Inca civilization. However, it has not yet been possible to establish how the stones of these walls, weighing up to 200 tons and fitted to each other with pinpoint accuracy, were processed. Also, the ancient system of underground passages has not yet been fully explored.
■ The Moray Archaeological Site, located 74 kilometers from Cusco at an altitude of 3500 meters, is still admired not only by archaeologists. Here, huge terraces, going down, form a kind of amphitheater. Studies have shown that this structure was used by the Incas as an agricultural laboratory, since the different heights of the terraces made it possible to observe plants in different climatic conditions and experiment with them. Different soils and a complex irrigation system were used here, with a total of 250 species of plants grown by the Incas.

The Andes mountain system is recognized by researchers as one of the longest and highest on the planet and is located in the western region of the continent of South America.

Geographical characteristics of the Andes

The Andes are located on the continent of South America. They run along the western coastal part of the mainland, close to the Pacific Ocean. They also stretch along the entire coast from the far north to the very south of the mainland. These are rather high mountains, they reach an elevation of over six thousand meters, and their highest peak, Aconcagua, has no equal in the entire Southern and Western hemispheres. The Andes pass through the territory of several South American countries:

• Colombia.
• Venezuela.
• Bolivia.
• Ecuador.
• Argentina.
• Peru.
• Chile.

This mountain system is extremely rich in minerals, especially deposits of metals, salts, precious stones, oil and gas, and in these countries many important enterprises operate in the Andes mountains.

The origin of the Andes and their influence on the climate of the continent

The Andean Ridge belongs to the mountains of tectonic origin. These mountains were formed because millions of years ago the lithospheric plateau on which South America lies collided with the oceanic lithospheric plateau called Nazca. The area that remained between the two slabs was pushed upward and mountains were formed. This is a fairly young system, and its formation has not yet stopped, therefore, there are many active volcanoes in this region and earthquakes often occur.

The rise of the Andes greatly influenced the climate and nature of South America. These mountains block the path of the monsoons that blow from the Atlantic Ocean, and block their way to more distant parts of the mainland. The moisture that is carried by these winds cannot overcome the Andes and falls on their eastern slopes near the equator, making this area the second wettest place on Earth. And it is in this place that the Amazon is formed, as well as many of its tributaries. Thanks to the Andes, South America has become the wettest of the continents, and the largest tropical rainforests on the planet along the Amazon were formed here. The western side of the Andes is quite arid and sometimes even deserted.