How to make a box for tiles. Plasterboard boxes in the bathroom, various designs

. On this page, we will analyze step by step how to make a plastic box in a bathroom and a plastic ceiling from panels.

Bathroom in Minusinsk, plastic ceiling and plastic box.

I make a plastic ceiling in a slightly peculiar way, not like in most cases, but it seems to me that this method is easier and faster than the others. The plastic ceiling is made at the end, after the tile is glued and embroidered, electricity is supplied for the spotlights (if they are, of course). I have a ceiling without lamps in the photo, the lamps in this bathroom are wall-mounted.

Unlike the ceiling, it is better to make a plastic box before laying the tiles. In my photo, the box was made before laying (meaning from the profiles), and I closed it with plastic after laying the tiles. The pipe box is made before laying the tiles for the reason that when laying, you need to know where to glue the tiles to or where to start (depending on which pattern or design).

Well, before you make a box, if necessary, you need to replace the pipes for hot and cold water, bring a heated towel rail, change the sewer pipes and make the piping from the meters to the sanitary devices. My photo shows a wiring made of polypropylene. In this case, the polypropylene wiring and the sewer drain were made by myself, the iron pipes and the towel were made before me.

So, in the photo you can see: two branches (cold and hot) go up from the water meters to the polypropylene taps and from them to the outputs to the water heater. A faucet goes down from the cold water to the toilet, then cold and hot water goes to the mixer to the bath, kitchen and tulip. The sewer outlet to the toilet is in the corner, the toilet will stand at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall.

The pipe box is made of plasterboard profiles 27 * 28 and 60 * 27.

We fasten the plastic panel

After the tiles have been glued to the box, we fasten the plastic panel. Our panel is black with flowers; in design it fits very well with decorative inserts. Before screwing it on, they made a hole in it for heated towel rail pipes, water meters, a hole for a cold water tap to the toilet, brought the ends of the pipes to the water heater, and inserted U-shaped plastic corners along the edges (the edge of the panel with tiles). When screwing, the U-shaped corners, the edges are bent slightly (carefully so as not to break), the panel is screwed to the profile (metal / metal screw with a press washer) and the edges, releasing, are smoothed by hand. If done correctly, the edges should nowhere move away from the panel.

The plastic corner had to be cut a little

After screwing to the profile, the outer corner of the panels is closed with a plastic corner, I have it 3 * 3 cm wide. I glue the corner on the glue "liquid nails".

Glue "liquid nails" Moment Installation white under the gun.

I made holes in the plastic for water meters to fit a plumbing hatch of 20 * 30 cm, taking into account that it was easy to crawl through it and turn off the water heater taps. The hole for the toilet tap is made in the size of a plumbing flap 10 * 10.

On the right, the U-shaped corner covers the edge of the plastic, on the left, the outer corner covers the plastic. The hatch 20 * 30 is installed horizontally.

We make the ceiling.

When edging the ceiling, I use aluminum corners for a slatted ceiling in white (the full name is "White edging for a slatted ceiling"). They are 3 meters long, width, in my opinion, 2 * 2.5 cm. A bath like mine takes 4 such corners.

The corner is cut to length to fit the wall. On the side that will press against the tile, apply (with blobs) glue "Moment Installation White" and press against the wall, while the glue dries, the corner can be fixed with masking tape.

So that no gaps are visible between the corner and the tile, gently squeeze the "Moment Installation" glue inside the gap with a pistol, slide your finger over it, removing excess glue, and, if necessary, if the glue is squeezed out onto the panel or corner, wipe it with a damp sponge. So we pass with glue around the entire perimeter of the edging. The glue should be wiped off with a sponge almost immediately, as it dries very quickly.

The edges of the plastic panels will lie on the edging. In order to fix the middle of the panels from sagging, in the center of the ceiling in the perpendicular direction from how the plastic panels will be laid, we attach a profile 60 * 27 to the ceiling. The profile is mounted on 2-3 straight hangers, its edges should fit to the corners of the edging and, if you look from the bottom up, then be higher than the upper edge of the corner of the edging by the thickness of the plastic panel from which the ceiling is made. In the future, the edge of the plastic panel will be wound between the profile and the edge of the corner and so fixed, and the middle of the panel will be screwed to the profile with a metal / metal self-tapping screw with a press washer.

It is better to start screwing the plastic panel from the “visible” edge and hijacking to the less “visible” one. Before screwing on the panel, it must be cut off on the floor to the required size in such a way that its edges fit freely on the edge of the edging corner, not resting, but also not sliding off them. If the edge of the panel in the corners slightly moves away from the edge of the corner of the edging (a gap is formed), then you can press the panel from above with something, for example, with a piece of tile, (only this must be done immediately, and not after you further insert the following panels, since then you may not be able to get to the corner).

And one more important thing - start to wind the plastic panel against the wall with the groove that is inserted into the next panel, and the edge of the groove into which the next panel is inserted is screwed to the profile (if you do the opposite, you will not succeed, since then you will not be able insert next panel).

Before screwing on the panel, it must be cut on the floor to the required dimensions.

Begin to wind the plastic panel to the wall with the groove that is inserted into the next panel, and the edge of the groove into which the next panel is inserted is screwed to the profile

if viewed from bottom to top, then the profile should be higher than the upper edge of the edging corner by the thickness of the plastic panel

We collect panels, if necessary, we cut holes in them for spotlights

If you have spotlights in the ceiling, then before making the panels, you need to mark the places where they will be, and when assembling the panels in the right place in the panel, make a hole in the size of the spotlight and insert it into the panel.

When installing the extreme (last) panel, it usually has to be cut to the desired width. Its width should be such that when its groove enters the panel, its opposite edge lies on the edging, not resting against it, but also not falling off it.

When all the panels are assembled, so that there are no gaps, I once again pass the edges between the edging and the panels with the "Mounting Moment" glue. With a not very great skill, the ceiling turns out to be even and without any cracks, curvatures and similar disadvantages. When assembling the ceiling in the bathroom, which is shown in the photo, it took me about 2 hours.

Ready-made plastic box in the bathroom

A modern bathroom cannot be imagined without communications. But sewerage and water pipes will not add attractiveness to the room. Therefore, in the process of renovation, the owners of apartments and houses hide these systems under the boxes. It is quite possible to carry out such designs independently, without the involvement of professionals. Just first you need to pick up the material. To accomplish the described task, you can use one of several methods and complete the installation:

boxes;
furniture;
roller shutters;
pipes in the wall.

When choosing an option, it is worth considering the possibility of pipe maintenance. In the event of a breakdown, the decor of the room should not be damaged. As soon as the box can be installed, you can mount a collapsible structure or make access doors.

The tubing box in the bathroom can be installed depending on the location of the lines. You can only cover the pipes or the entire wall. The first option involves decorating individual areas, so there is an opportunity to save on materials.

If the entire plane is sewn up, then the room will look more attractive, but this design will reduce the usable area. You can use the space partially occupied by pipes by storing various things there.

Preparation of tools and materials

Like all other rooms in your home, your bathroom should look attractive. The indoor pipe box can be made of different materials - it can be drywall, plastic or wood. However, before starting work, you should take care of the availability of some tools, among them:

roulette;
hammer drill;
construction knife;
plumb line;
building corner;
hammer;
bubble level.

To make the boxes, a standard sheet of drywall with dimensions of 2500x1200 mm will be enough. The thickness can range from 9 to 12.5 mm. It is better to purchase a moisture-resistant material, because the sewer riser and water pipes are covered with perspiration, so the humidity will be significant.

The frame can be made of wooden square bars with a side of 40 or 50 mm. An alternative solution is a galvanized profile designed for working with drywall. The latter option is more practical, because the profile does not require special training, and it is much easier to install it.

Material selection

Before making a pipe box in the bathroom, you should select the material. It must be moisture resistant, have a small thickness and weight, and also be based on environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere. According to these requirements, you can choose plywood, plastic, MDF or moisture resistant drywall.

Preparation

Before installing a pipe box in the bathroom, you need to think about where problems will most often occur. Problems with the water supply or sewerage system occur at the joints. If you plan to install the box after laying the pipes, then you should make sure that the line has fewer connections.

If the replacement of the pipeline is not planned, then before hiding the pipes, it is necessary to inspect them. Without fear of leaks, you can close welded or sealed connections. Fittings should be easily accessible. Their inspection should be carried out periodically. This indicates that screw connections must not be bricked up. Access must also be guaranteed to valves, filters and meters.

Box making: sizing

The pipe box in the bathroom should be carried out only after it has been possible to determine its future dimensions. The distance from the walls of the box to the pipes should not be less than 3 cm.

Installing the frame

Before backfilling the communication system, the frame should be installed. It is better to make it from a galvanized profile, because the air in the room will be constantly humid, so wood is not suitable. If the latter option is still preferable for you, then you should pick up the bars made of rocks that are resistant to decay. Before use, the elements are treated with an antiseptic.

The components of the frame are fastened together with self-tapping screws or cutters. To fix the profile to the wall, you can stock up on euro screws or dowels. The box covering the bathroom pipes must first be fixed to the walls. At the next stage, the racks are mounted, which will form the front face. Next, guides are installed on the floor and ceiling.

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be made between them. They are required for a frame with a width of more than 0.25 m. Between the jumpers, you need to leave a distance of no more than a meter. How to make a pipe box in the bathroom so that it will serve for many years? You must treat the cut with mastic if you are using wood. This will not only protect the material from damage, but also exclude its deformation.

Frame sheathing

When preparing parts for the box, it is necessary to form whole elements. The side walls should be cut first. They are cut so that the edges do not go beyond the frame profile. Then the front part of the box is cut out, which should cover the sidewalls. After cutting, the material is mounted to the racks. To do this, use 3.5 cm self-tapping screws. The step between them should be 2.5 cm. This will provide the frame with strength, so there is no need to fix the material to the jumpers.

For the manufacture of doors, you can use elements that will be fixed with magnets. Sometimes the box for pipes in the bathroom is made completely collapsible. For this, sheets of material are fastened with self-tapping screws at the very edge. The final finishing does not imply their decoration, this is necessary if ceramic tiles are used at the final stage. In order to make the box complete, you can use a plinth or. If you need to dismantle the box, the plinth is removed, the screws are unscrewed, the finishing material is removed.

A pipe box in a plasterboard bathroom is the most common solution for decorating communications. For sheathing the frame, drywall should be prepared, the thickness of which will be 9.5 mm. The joints should be putty, and then the surface is painted or revetted with another material as desired.

Manufacturing of a plastic box

The first thing to do before in the bathroom is to close the pipes with a frame. This was discussed above. However, if you want to use polystyrene panels as the cladding of the box, then the cladding will be done in a slightly different way. The advantage of this solution is the ability to adjust the structure in height.

The panels have legs, which makes it possible to level the unevenness of the floor. With the help of these legs, you can close irregularities up to 10 cm. Installation of panels will look like this. An end support is mounted on the wall. The top and side edges must be coated with glue and reinstalled. A wrench will allow the panel legs to be tightened. The plastic pipe box in the bathroom is not only easy to install, but also durable and reliable.

Specialist's recommendations for sheathing the frame of the box with PVC panels

After installing the starting profile, in order to avoid deformation, it is necessary to fix it with beads on the guide profile. On the plastic panel, you need to measure the desired size, then cut it off with a sharp knife. In the starting profile, the first panel is fixed, while the other is attached to the corner profile.

To connect, you must use bugs or fleas. The second side of the box is assembled according to the same principle. On the last panel, you need to fix the starting profile. By using silicone, you will ensure ease of disassembly when an emergency arises. In those places where it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the pipeline elements, it is necessary to cut inspection holes. Special hatches are installed using silicone sealant.

Conclusion

Before making the box, you need to think about what material the frame will be made of. If you plan to use a profile, you should purchase UD and CD guides. If you prefer wood, then to connect the elements from it, it is better to purchase hardened self-tapping screws, the length of which will be twice the size of the used timber.

In each of these cases, to fix the drywall sheets, it is better to stock up on hot self-tapping screws, the dimensions of which are 35-45 mm. It is important to choose a fastener that has a piercing tip. It will be easier to work with it, and it will not damage the material either.

You cannot do without communication systems in the bathroom. However, plumbing and sewer pipes are unlikely to add aesthetic appeal to your space. Therefore, most of the residents, during the renovation process, try to hide all communication. There are several ways to implement the plan: hide the pipes with furniture, boxes, roller shutters, or brick them up in the wall. When choosing a camouflage option, it is worth considering the possibility of maintaining communications. So that in the event of a breakdown, you do not have to break the decor of the room. By installing a pipe box in the bathroom, you can make a collapsible structure or build small doors to access communications.

Depending on the location of the highways, the box can be installed in two ways: covering only the pipes or the entire wall on which they are located. In the first option, by closing only those sections where there are pipes, you save on material. Sewing the entire plane on which the highways are located looks more aesthetically pleasing, but reduces the usable area of the bathroom. In order to at least somehow use the space in the box not occupied by pipes, small storage facilities are built there for various things.

What is the best box to make?

Before closing unsightly communications, it is necessary to choose the right material for the box, behind which the pipes in the bathroom will be hidden. It must meet several requirements:

have sufficient moisture resistance;
have low weight and thickness;
made from environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit harmful substances.

According to these criteria, from the commercially available materials for the manufacture of the box in the bathroom, you can use: MDF, moisture-resistant plywood, moisture-resistant drywall or plastic.

Preparatory stage

Most often, problems with the pipeline occur at the joints. Therefore, the fewer, the better. If the box is installed after laying new pipes, care must be taken to ensure that the line has as few connections as possible. If the replacement of the pipeline is not part of your plans, before hiding the pipes in the bathroom, you need to carry out a thorough inspection of them. Examine all lines for defects and, if any, eliminate.

It is believed that sealed and welded joints can be closed without fear of leaks. But to fittings with threaded connections, there should be free access. It is necessary to periodically inspect them. Therefore, screw connections must not be bricked up. It is also necessary to provide free access to valves, sewer inspections, meters, filters.

Making a box step by step

The installation of the box in the bathroom consists of several stages. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Measurements and sizing of the structure

Before sealing the pipes, it is necessary to make the necessary measurements and clarify the location of the box. In places of unreliable connections, to meters and valves, a removable part or door must be provided. It does not interfere with a plan of the room on a scale, on which all structural details will be marked. In the process of measuring, do not forget about the thickness of the finishing material.

Having determined the contour of the future structure on the floor, using a plumb line, transfer it to the ceiling, and then make markings on the walls.

Installation of the frame for subsequent sheathing

Before you sew the communications into the box, you need to install the frame around the pipes. It is best to make it from a galvanized profile. Since the air in the bathroom is constantly humid, the use of wooden blocks is undesirable. If you do decide to use them, choose bars made from decay-resistant rocks. And before use, treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic.

The adhesion of the frame elements to each other is carried out with self-tapping screws or using a cutter. Dowels and euro screws are used to fix the profile to the wall.

It is necessary to mount the profiles to the wall taking into account that the finishing material does not subsequently adhere close to the pipes

The first step is to mount the profile on the walls. Then the racks are installed forming the front face.

Depending on the design of the future box, there can be several or only one front struts. They are fastened with their own folded edge or hangers

Then the guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor.

It is convenient to fasten vertical and horizontal profiles to each other using a cutter

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to make jumpers between them. They will also be needed for the frame, the width of which is more than 0.25 m. The distance between the jumpers is no more than a meter.

For the strength of the structure, jumpers are attached to racks with a height of more than 1.5 m

When using a wooden frame, treat the cut with construction mastic. This will protect the box from damage and prevent its deformation during temperature and humidity fluctuations.

Sheathing of the frame of the box with sheet material

When cutting out the parts for the box, try to make solid elements, and not from pieces. First, the side parts are cut. They are cut in such a way that the edges do not protrude beyond the frame profiles, but are flush with them. After that, the front part of the box is cut out. It should cover the side elements.

After cutting the material, it is mounted to the racks. This is done with self-tapping screws (3.5-4.5 cm). The distance between them should be no more than 2.5 cm. Such a box will have sufficient strength, therefore, it is not necessary to attach the material to the jumpers. To control the weak points of the pipeline, inspection holes with doors are left.

A hole must be left in the box for free access to valves, meters and filters. It can be closed with a door purchased from a hardware store.

They can be built independently or purchased ready-made. For the hand-made manufacture of access points to the pipes, a door is made from the material that is used for the box itself. To prevent it from opening, furniture magnets are fixed on them.

The inspection hole door can be finished with the same material as the entire box. This will make it less noticeable.

A completely collapsible box can be made. To do this, the sheets of finishing material are fastened to the very edge with self-tapping screws. For the final finishing, they are not covered with tiles.

In conclusion, plastic corners or a baseboard are fixed. When you need to dismantle the box, remove the baseboard, untwist the screws and remove the finishing material.

Self-tapping screws, closed with a plastic corner, can be easily unscrewed to dismantle the box in case of emergency. After that, the box remains intact and can be mounted in place.

Final decorative finish

The final stage of the box installation is its finishing. It depends on the material from which the structure is made. Plywood, drywall and MDF can be tiled or painted. Plastic panels do not need any further finishing. They look pretty attractive in and of themselves. Unlike drywall, plastic does not reduce the floor space.

To decorate the bath, a frame is built from a profile

In the same way, the pipes are closed under the bath itself. First, the frame is mounted, and then it is sheathed, leaving the control doors.

A moisture-resistant drywall is mounted on top of the frame from the profile and tiles are mounted on it. Be sure to leave the door for pipe maintenance

Now, knowing how to mount the box, you can decorate any pipes in the bathroom and make the room more attractive from an aesthetic point of view. Hiding communications in the bathroom improves the design of the room. In addition, after the pipes are closed with a box, the noise level emanating from them is reduced.

Video example of carrying out these finishing works

When decorating the interior of a bathroom, it is necessary to choose the right finishing materials for walls and floors, to choose the necessary plumbing fixtures. The design of the premises is often spoiled by various engineering communications, water supply and sewerage. A pipe box in the bathroom will help to hide the elements from prying eyes.

Materials for creating a structure

When arranging a box, there is no need to resort to the help of a specialist, you can do it yourself. At the initial stage of work, a frame is made, which will serve as the basis for fixing the finishing material. The element is made of a galvanized metal profile. The guides are placed vertically or horizontally, then fastened with jumpers.

A wide variety of materials can be used as decoration. They must have the following properties:

high levels of moisture resistance (in the bathroom the air humidity is constantly changing, which can lead to the formation of mold and mildew on the surfaces);
minimal finishing weight and small thickness (thanks to such qualities, the installation of structural elements is simplified);
environmental safety of the products used;
attractive appearance of the finish.

Several materials meet these requirements.

Pvc

The panels made of polyvinyl chloride have an attractive appearance. Products are present on the construction market in a wide range. A person can choose the finish according to personal preferences, in any case, the panels must fit into the existing interior of the room.

The box in the toilet made of PVC panels has the following advantages:

excellent indicators of moisture resistance;
strength and durability;
minimum panel weight;
ease of installation without the presence of special construction tools;
ease of care, just wipe the surface with a damp cloth;
low material cost;
the possibility of repair work: damaged panels are removed from the frame and replaced with new elements;
compactness.

A plastic tubing box in the bathroom is ideal for small rooms, because the panels have a small thickness. An alternative to this material can be considered drywall panels.

Moisture resistant drywall

In stores, you can find several options for products. Standard drywall is used in ordinary living spaces, but it is not suitable for a bathroom where high humidity is constantly present. The way out of the situation will be the use of sheets of moisture-resistant drywall. Products are suitable for the device of standard rectangular structures or parts with convex surfaces, but this will require special skills in working with the material.

Moisture resistant sheets can be identified by their green surface. Plates are treated with antiseptic solutions, which prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. Installation of a plasterboard box in bathrooms has the following features:

installation of elements is much more difficult than fixing plastic panels;
it will not be possible to obtain a collapsible structure, therefore, a small door or hatch must be provided in the box, which will provide unhindered access to the shut-off valves;
drywall boards are considered the basis; ceramic tiles or moisture-resistant paint can be used as a finishing material.

Important! To increase the performance characteristics, the surface of the drywall is covered with special impregnations, which additionally protect the material from the harmful effects of moisture.

Waterproof plywood

Products differ from ordinary plywood sheets in a special composition. Natural wood veneer is reliably glued to each other using a special glue, which increases the strength and moisture resistance of the material. A person can choose the required sheet thickness, this parameter ranges from 6 to 40 mm. The main disadvantage of finishing is considered to be the high cost; its surface must be additionally coated with waterproof compounds.

MDF and HDV

Some masters recommend assembling a box from MDF panels. In fact, it is impractical to use this material in the bathroom, because fiberboards absorb moisture well, which will lead to their destruction in the future.

You can close the pipes with HDV plates. Products differ from the previous version in increased density, they better resist moisture. HDV will serve in the bathroom for at least 10 years without losing the initial technical characteristics.

OSB

Oriented strand sandwich boards (OSB) will be an ideal option for finishing the box. They contain synthetic resins and other components that prevent wood from rotting. Several types of slabs can be found on the construction market, but panels with additional impregnation, marking OSB-3 or OSB-4, are best suited for the bathroom.

Choice of design

Utilities can be disguised in several different ways. The most popular box designs:

the cabinet is installed above vertical pipes, it can be equipped with shelves for various small utensils and household items;
the partition box is a fairly large structure that is installed along the entire length or height of the room. This option well hides all engineering systems, including sewer pipes, and is ideal for large premises. The box can be used when installing various plumbing elements, it well hides the installation of the toilet or the supply pipes from the sink coming from the mixer. Shelves for storing household chemicals are mounted behind the partition;
compact horizontal or vertical ducts are used in small bathrooms. Structures take up a minimum amount of usable space.

Important! Before choosing a specific option, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure, make the appropriate marks on the wall.

Required tools

To make a removable box for pipes in the toilet, you will need:

galvanized metal profile for the frame;
dowel-nails for fixing the guides on the surface of the walls;
a laser or ordinary building level is used for marking work;
serpyanka or reinforcing tape is used to securely connect drywall sheets;
stationery knife;
screwdriver and screws or self-tapping screws for fixing finishing materials on the frame;
puncher;
putty and putty knife;
electric jigsaw;
metal shears or a grinder with an abrasive disc are used to cut the guides.

You will need a putty and putty knife, a primer for treating drywall surfaces before finishing.

In addition to the specified tool, other devices can be used, it depends on the specific finishing material.

Creating a drywall box

To create a decorative box from sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, you must adhere to the following step-by-step instructions:

At the preparatory stage of the work, measurements are made on the walls at the locations of the pipes, the distances are transferred to paper, and a detailed plan of the structure is drawn up (opposite the meters and valves, a hole is provided for the device of the hatch).
Marking lines are applied in the bathroom on the surface of the walls and ceiling, if necessary (the minimum distance between the extreme part of the utilities and the inner surface of the box is 3 cm).
They turn to the device of a frame made of a galvanized profile (dowel-nails are used to fix the guides, screws or self-tapping screws are used for fastening to wooden structures).
In the case of a box for masking vertical pipes of engineering systems, first of all, a metal profile is installed along the walls, then on the ceiling. To ensure the rigidity of the structure, jumpers are installed. The box should have a minimum number of bends, this will greatly simplify the installation work.
Cut the sheets of moisture-resistant drywall in such a way that the minimum number of joints is obtained.
Fix the sheets of material with self-tapping screws to the previously installed frame.
Serpyanka (reinforcing mesh) is laid and putty is applied at the corners of the structure and at the joints of the sheets.
Doors or inspection hatch are inserted.

At the final stage of work, they cover the box with a primer and begin finishing work. The structure can be painted or tiled to match the color of the walls in the bathroom.

Collapsible design

If necessary, you can make a collapsible box, which will simplify the repair of engineering communications. In this case, the drywall sheets are fixed with screws at the edge of the frame. The finishing material in the end part is not putty, in the future it will be covered with a metal corner. To disassemble the structure, it is enough to remove the corners and unscrew the screws.

Tiling

To mask utilities, ceramic tiles must be selected according to the color and pattern of the existing finishing material. At the initial stage of work, drywall is covered with a primer, which will contribute to better adhesion of the base surface. They make a preliminary layout of the tiles and determine the most advantageous placement of the elements.

Now you need to prepare the glue. The solution is mixed with water according to the manufacturer's instructions. The mixture is applied to the surface with a notched trowel, after which the tiles are laid. To maintain the same gaps between adjacent elements, plastic crosses are used. The position of the ceramic tiles is adjusted with a rubber hammer and a building level.

To trim the tile, a tile cutter or grinder with an abrasive disc is used. During the work, it is necessary to take into account the size of the gap between the tiles. When the glue is dry, the joints are filled with the grout of the chosen color using a rubber trowel and the surface is cleaned from dirt.

Creating a box from plastic panels

The construction of a box made of plastic panels is carried out using the same technology. First, marking lines are applied on the walls of the room. After that, proceed to the installation of the U-shaped and angular profile. When the frame is installed, measurements are taken and the plastic is cut, the panels are inserted into the frame. Plastic products do not need additional processing, they perfectly resist moisture.

Access to communications

For unhindered access to utilities, a water meter and shut-off valves, a door or inspection hatch is provided. Products are made from the same material as the box finish. For ease of use, a furniture handle is attached to the doors. To prevent spontaneous opening, the product is equipped with magnets.

when installing a vertical structure, marking lines are applied in the direction from the floor to the ceiling;
it is imperative to treat the inner surface of the finishing material with an antifungal agent, antiseptic;
it is important to provide inspection holes in the design for using shut-off valves or monitoring the amount of water used;
it is necessary to use a metal profile for arranging a frame for drywall;
it is better to fix the sheets with self-tapping screws every 30 cm.

And the last, but very important requirement: with the close proximity of the pipes, it is worth placing them in one box. The minimum distance from the inner surface of the structure to utilities is 3 cm.

The communications in the bathrooms look unattractive, therefore, in most cases, starting the renovation of the apartment, the owners of the living space want to build a box of plasterboard for pipes. Someone invites a master for this, but if there is at least a minimal idea of the construction tool, you can close the pipes yourself.

Material selection and required tools

The construction of the box is not a complicated process, but in this work there are some nuances that are worth knowing for a positive result. For installation, you need to buy materials, and:

fasteners - connection elements, "seeds", dowel-nails;
plaster;
silicone-based sealant - useful for sealing joints with the floor;
inspection hatch;
drywall
profile - and.

Material for creating a plasterboard structure

You will need tools to work, there are not so many of them, so it will not be difficult to prepare it:

spatula;
screwdriver;
puncher;
drill 6 mm;
scissors for metal;
screwdriver;
level;
roulette;
knife and hacksaw;
bath;
container for mixing the mixture.

Drywall tools

As soon as everything is ready, you can assemble a drywall box, consider the step-by-step instructions.

Step-by-step instructions for making a box for pipes

Before you start assembling a drywall box, you need to draw up a project. Do not ignore this stage, since it is one of the most important, since the quality of the box made on your own depends on it.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a plasterboard box for hiding drain pipes will be described using the example of a bathroom and toilet, the process of installing a structure for hiding pipes in the kitchen is identical to that described.

There is no need to create an exact drawing, it is enough just to make a schematic drawing with the dimensions of the future structure transferred to it.

Scheme of a drywall box for pipes

Watch the video: how to close pipes with a drywall box.

Further, it should be noted on the floor and ceiling, the location of the guide profile, for this you need a building corner. Substitute the corner with a short edge to the corner at the intersection of the floor and wall, and draw a straight line on the floor. The angle between the strip on the wall and the strip on the floor should be 90 degrees;

The same should be done on the ceiling.

The markup is ready, you can proceed to the next stage.

Mounting and installation of a frame made of profiles

Before the construction of the metal frame, you need to cut the required number of profile segments equal to the marked lines.

Watch in the video: assembling a frame for a future GCR box.

How is the installation done:

You need to start by installing guide profiles on the floor and ceiling, and then on the walls. They are installed strictly along the lines, and are fixed with dowel-nails. To do this, press the profile firmly to the floor and drill holes in the floor directly through it at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Insert dowels into the holes and screw in self-tapping screws;

After that, you can start installing the rack-mount profiles. It is inserted along the top and bottom guides. The profile is pressed and fixed with dowel-nails. The ends of the flexible joint are folded inward, or cut off. The main requirement in this situation is that the profile must be level;
The next step will be the installation of the corner connecting profile, it is screwed with small screws to the intersection of the guides at the corner of the future box;

Fastening the rack profile to the guide using self-tapping screws

Then the stiffening frame is mounted in the pipe box - the profile at the wall and the profile at the corner are connected in small segments. The segments are located strictly parallel to the floor at a distance of 30 cm from each other, along the entire height of the frame on both sides.

Important! The entire assembly must be controlled by level, even a small deviation, which can lead to poor-quality assembly of the structure. This instruction will help you to assemble and install a box that can cover the heating pipes.

Firstly, for this structure, reinforcement is made from profiles, in size.

Secondly, such hatches are quite heavy, so you need to fix it carefully, not sparing self-tapping screws.

Also at this stage it is necessary to determine where the ventilation grill will be installed, it is necessary so that condensation does not form inside the box.