Wooden floor in a one-story house. Installation of wooden floors in an aerated concrete house

When planning the construction of a country cottage, the owner has to solve the difficult question of choosing floors. Some contractors advise him to use reinforced concrete panels, others insist on using wooden beams as overlapping.

We decided to help newbies get out of their predicament. In our article you will find an overview of the advantages and disadvantages of wooden interfloor floors.

Useful tips for their installation and important nuances of doing this work will also not be superfluous. We hope that the information received will be useful to you at the construction site and will help you avoid serious mistakes.

A stereotype has developed in the minds of citizens, according to which precast concrete panels are the only possible solution for any building. It is not difficult to overcome it.

It is enough to list the advantages of timber joist floors:

The minimum cost (1 m3 of timber is several times cheaper than 1 m3 of hollow panels);
The load on the walls is 2-3 times less than from the panels. This allows you to significantly reduce the consumption of reinforcement and concrete when constructing a foundation;
On small spans (up to 4 meters), wooden beams can be laid by hand using the simplest tools (winch or lifting block). To mount heavy slabs without a powerful crane is an unrealistic task;
Low labor intensity and high speed of work (in comparison with pouring a monolithic reinforced concrete floor);
Environmental friendliness (granite gravel is used in concrete, the radiation background of which can significantly exceed the norm).

As you know, there are no advantages without disadvantages. Wood floors have few of them:

Increased deformability. It manifests itself in the effect of vibration when walking and the formation of cracks at the junction of plasterboard partitions;
Low fire resistance (no special impregnation);
Relatively short length (no more than 6 meters). For reinforced concrete panels, it reaches 7.2 meters.

Among the disadvantages of these structures, some authors of feature articles include the formation of cracks in the ceiling plaster and poor insulation of impact noise. However, with a competent approach to installation, these two problems can be solved simply and reliably. To do this, a number of less thick beams are laid below the load-bearing beams, specially designed for filing the ceiling (drywall, OSB, lining, board).

The filing bar, like the main one, is placed on the wall, but lower, and the ceiling lining is attached to it. This solution is not often found, although it is competent and its history goes back more than one century, in addition to cutting off the structured noise of the second floor, this option eliminates cracks in the ceiling. They appear in the case when the beam serves as a support for the floor of the second floor and at the same time the ceiling of the first floor is hemmed to it. Cracks appear in the finish from vibration and shock loading.

Applications and calculation of wooden floors

in buildings constructed of wood (frame and chopped);
in summer cottages;
in outbuildings (sheds, baths, workshops);
in prefabricated houses of collapsible type.

In addition to the listed options, wooden structures for interfloor floors can be used in cottages intended for year-round use. Only in this case, you need to use a two-row system for installing beams, which we described above.

We do not recommend choosing the section of the timber according to the principle "the thicker the better". There is a simple calculation method taken from building codes.

According to it, the height of a wooden beam should be at least 1/25 of the size of the span to be covered.... For example, with a 4-meter distance between the walls, you need to buy a sawlog with a section height (H) of at least 400/25 = 16 cm with a thickness (S) of 12 cm.To create a safety margin, the found parameters can be increased by 2-3 cm ...

The second parameter that needs to be chosen correctly is the number of beams. It depends on their step (the distance between the central axes). Knowing the cross-section of the beam and the size of the span, the step is determined from the table.

Table. Selecting a pitch of beams

The calculated load of 350-400 kg / m2 indicated in the table is the maximum for the second floor. If it is not residential, then its value will not exceed 250 kg / m2.

When planning the layout of the beams, it is necessary to take into account that the two extreme ones should recede from the end walls by at least 5 cm. The remaining beams are distributed evenly along the walls (in accordance with the selected step).

Stages and features of installation

Technologically, the overlapping device on wooden beams cannot be called complicated. The main attention should be paid to the alignment of the beams horizontally and the quality of embedding their ends into the solid wall. You can't just put the beams on the masonry and lay them with bricks. It is necessary to provide them with a reliable connection with the walls and to protect the wood from decay of high quality.

Options for embedding beams, depending on the material of the masonry, the type of wall structures (external, internal, chimney) and methods of their fastening are shown in the figures.

The length of the supporting part of the beams in a brick and block wall should be at least 16 cm (in wood 7-8 cm). If, instead of a timber, paired boards are used, placed on the edge, then they are embedded in the masonry by at least 10 cm.

The side parts of the beams in contact with the wall are wrapped with 2 layers of glassine or 1 layer of roofing material. Experienced craftsmen cut the ends of the beams at an angle (60-70 °) and leave them uninsulated, while not forgetting to treat them with an antiseptic composition on a level with the rest. This ensures the "breathing" of wood wrapped in waterproofing.

When installing the overlap on the sides, small gaps (3-5 cm) are left at each beam, filled with mineral wool or tow. A heat insulator is also placed in the space between the end of each beam and the wall. This eliminates the "cold bridge" arising by reducing the thickness of the masonry.

When constructing ceilings in walls made of aerated concrete and wood concrete blocks, it is recommended to use an open seal. In this case, the ends of the beams are also cut at an angle, antiseptic and pasted over with tar paper on mastic, leaving the ends free.

The outer wall of the nest is insulated with felt or mineral wool and a box made of pieces of antiseptic board is inserted into it. Its height is chosen such that an air gap (2-3 cm) is formed above the beam. Through it, water vapor that accumulates in the wood will escape into the room in the plinth area. This solution protects the supporting part of the beam from decay.

In practice, developers most often use a simpler termination method without the use of insulation and a wooden box, covering the logs with block scraps or simply with a raster.

The floor beams are supported on, which is used to increase the spatial rigidity of the block masonry.

In the internal bearing walls, the beams are sealed in a closed way. To increase the stiffness of the overlap, they are connected after three to each other with steel anchor plates.

The section of the beam adjacent to the smoke channel is insulated with asbestos or other non-combustible material. The main protection against fire here is a brick cut (thickening of the pipe masonry) with a thickness of 25 cm.

In wooden houses, beams are installed in two ways:

Cutting into log crowns;
Through a steel shaped plate (stool) fixed to the wall with threaded rods.

Installation of floor slabs by cutting into walls

Option for installing beams on "chairs"

If the upper floor or attic is not residential (heated), then it is necessary to insulate the wooden floors. To do this, a heater (mineral wool, ecowool) is placed in the space between the beams, after having spread a layer of vapor barrier over the ceiling lining.

Styrofoam should not be used for this work for three reasons:

It does not allow water vapor to pass through, and the wood underneath it rots;
Does not isolate impact noise;
Is problematic from the point of view of environmental friendliness.

The construction of the insulated floor is shown in the diagram.

Similarly, the insulation of the floor of the first (basement) floor is carried out. The difference between them is that it is quite difficult to hem the beams from below from a shallow underground. In this case, the builders act differently. They knock a cranial block (5x5 cm) to the lateral edges of the beams. An antiseptic boardwalk is laid on it. It serves as a support for the slab insulation placed in the gaps between the beams. A vapor barrier is placed under the mineral wool. A vapor barrier is also laid on top of the beams. After that, logs are attached to them and a finishing floor is already mounted on them.

The mineral wool slab should be placed between the beams as tightly as possible to prevent blowing through the floor. For better insulation, all joints of the insulation are treated with polyurethane foam.

The horizontal control of the installation of the beams is carried out using a bubble level laid on a flat long board. For leveling, trim boards are used, protected by bitumen mastic. They are placed under the ends of the beams.

The vapor barrier sheets should be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm and all joints should be glued with construction tape.

To reduce the impact noise, before the installation of the floor log of the second floor, a sound-insulating tape with a thickness of 5 mm is laid along the beams. A waterproofing film is placed under the logs only if the premises of the second level are residential. It will protect the insulation from water ingress when cleaning the floor. The technology of its installation is similar to laying a vapor barrier.

The final stage in the construction of a wooden floor is the installation of a sub-floor made of boards, plywood or OSB boards using self-tapping screws. After the completion of this work, a finishing coating of laminate, linoleum, parquet is laid and the ceiling is finished.

Theo

Thank you very much for the consultation - it helps a lot in making decisions.

Trying to draw all the nodes, I came to the calculation of the lathing, the solution for waterproofing, the filing of the ceilings (the future base of the ceiling + the retention of the insulation), the floor in the attic for moving along it.

Lathing and waterproofing

Several manufacturers of slate, on whose website I found instructions for installing slate, recommend making a crate with a 60x60 bar. At the same time, waterproofing is not indicated in their installation technology.

As I understand it, in a slate roof, waterproofing does not work exactly the same as in a metal roof. In the slate, it seems to me, it works as an additional protection against precipitation in case of their penetration under the slate.

Looking closely at the roofs, walking along the streets, I found that many of the waterproofing was missing or roofing material (or something very similar to it) was laid on top of the crate (just under the slate).

On thin bars of the sheathing, the roofing material will probably bend so that water can accumulate, or even completely under the influence of temperatures and its gravity, collapse ahead of time

Ceiling lining:

I am also thinking about which board to use for the ceiling filing. I read about solutions for filing with an inch, but there are a lot of ways and criticism of performing work on filing on the forums.

Attic floor

Due to the fact that I want to move around the attic, to maintain the roof and store some light rubbish there, I want to mount the floor.

Floor structure

Taking into account the fact that I want to ensure the laying of insulation (glass wool) with a height of at least 250mm (250-300mm). For this reason, I see the sense to use an overlap in the form of a main frame + a cross frame (in the form of a bar located across the floor beams).

For the main frame, I am considering the option of using boards with a height of 200 mm as overlapping beams, and for a cross height of at least 50 + 20 mm (20 mm for the gap under the superdiffusion membrane) + a bar above the membrane (to ensure the escape of steam).

In the carbonized program for calculating the loads on the beam, I calculated that the floor beams of the main frame with a size of 200x40 (HxW) with a span of 4.6 m can withstand 170 kg. For a cross frame with a board thickness of 40 mm and a span and a step of 0.6 m, the safety margin is much greater.

Additionally

There is a board of about 2 cubes, 30x15 mm., 3-4 meters long (different sizes). Natural drying. Some of the boards have incorrect geometry (led). The board was used when pouring the foundation, wrapped in plastic wrap, but in some places there is a point hit of the concrete mixture on the board.

Questions

1) What kind of waterproofing should be used for a slate roof?

a) roofing material (if so, what to look for when choosing it?)

b) another option (I went to sites, looked at the waterproofing, my eyes fled, got confused)

2) How to install the under-roof waterproofing? As I understand it, several options are possible:

a) fasten to the rafters on the bars, on top of which the crate will be attached (for metal tiles, the bar should be up to 50mm high, for slate, probably less)

b) Lay on the crate directly under the slate

c) Other

3) If in question 2, the more correct option is "b" (waterproofing on the top of the lathing), then with what step and which board to use for the lathing (for option "a", as I understand it, the lathing recommended by the manufacturer of the slate will do. .e. 60x60 with a step up to 750mm).

4) Is the use of floor beams 200x40 (HxW) for the main frame and 70x40 (HxW) for the cross frame suitable in my case?

5) What board would you recommend for the attic floor (which will be used to move around the attic).

5) Sewing floor beams from below (arrangement of a rough ceiling)

a) What to do?

b) With what step?

c) What fasteners?

I would like to find a solution with the optimal ratio of efficiency and feasibility :)

to answer

For a stone house of two or more floors, the device of the ceiling of the first floor (it is also the floor of the next level) made of monolithic reinforced concrete is inherent. These can be floor slabs. By the way, most often it is them that are laid. However, if the access of the crane is difficult at the construction site or the finished house has a complex configuration that cannot be covered without gaps with slabs, a monolithic floor is poured with your own hands. The work is carried out strictly in accordance with the established norms and standards, otherwise the monolith may not withstand the load put on it from above.

How to properly fill a monolithic floor and calculate its bearing capacity, we analyze in the material below.

Important: pouring a monolith as a ceiling can be carried out not only according to indications, but also if the master finds this method appropriate for a particular house.

Advantages of the monolith over the installation of concrete slabs

The technology of pouring the ceiling with your own hands has a number of advantages over the laying of standard factory reinforced concrete slabs. The main positive aspects of the monolith are:

The entire overlap has an even and uniform structure without seams, joints and joints, which allows you to distribute the load as evenly as possible on the poured slab, the walls of the house and its foundation;
All bay windows and balconies can be poured directly under the existing design data, without the need to look for a floor slab of the required size and configuration;
Columns can be used in the interior of the first floor, which will make the design of the room richer and more original.

Important: there is no need to use sophisticated construction equipment to pour the monolith. All work can be done by hand, understanding the installation technology.

Calculation of the load on the slab and its parameters

Important: according to SNIP SNiP 52-01-2003 "Concrete and reinforced concrete structures", SNiP 3.03.01-87 and GOST R 52086-2003 for a private house, a standard monolithic floor slab should have a thickness of 180-200 mm. This is the average indicator of the solid monolithic space of the second floor floor or the first level ceiling.

Performing calculations for the floor slab is extremely necessary in order not to subsequently overload the existing space with additional partitions on the second floor or strengthening the floor finish. As a result of exceeding the load on the floor, it can simply burst and collapse.

In order to correctly calculate the parameters of the floor structure with the recommended bearing capacity, it is better to entrust the work to a professional. As a last resort, you can use an online calculator, in which all the data on the materials used for the monolith and its parameters are entered:

Floor length and width of the second floor;
Overlap height;
Concrete grade used;
Load per 1m2 of floor slab (taken as an assumed value of 450-500 kg / m2).

Important: the cross-section of the reinforcement rod should be maximum in the central part of the floor slab. Since closer to the retaining walls, the load on deflection and tension is reduced to almost zero.

To calculate the thickness of the floor (that is, its height), you need to use a factor of 1:30. Here 1 means the height of the monolith, and 30 - the length of the span from one outer wall to another. For example, if the house has a span of 8 m, then 800: 30 = 26.6 cm. Accordingly, for a span of 6 m, the ceiling height will be 20 cm.

Work technology

To fill a monolithic floor with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and raw materials:

Formwork boards and plywood sheets (preferably glossy so that the concrete minimally adheres to the wood when it dries);
Supports for a monolith at the rate of 1 pc / 1 m2 of floor slab;
Rods for knitting a reinforcing mesh with a cross section of 8-12 mm;
Plastic clamps-stands for fittings;
Concrete grade M-350 and higher (it is better to order ready-made in the required volume);
Rebar bending tool.

Formwork installation

In order for the monolithic floor slab to have a uniform surface on the side of the ceiling of the first floor, concrete must be poured into the prepared formwork, which is also called the deck. Immediately, we note that you can rent and mount a professional deck made of plastic and metal, complete with telescopic supports in the required quantity, or you can make a wooden ceiling with your own hands.

Important: if you mount the formwork yourself, then you should take boards 25-35 mm thick. At the same time, they are knocked end-to-end so that there are no gaps. The plywood must be at least 20 mm thick.

Formwork installation work is performed in the following order:

First, the supports are installed with a step of 1 meter from each other. At the same time, the support pillars can recede from the walls by 20 cm. As supports, you can use both telescopic pillars, which can be adjusted in height, and a bar with a section of 80-150 mm. Note that telescopic supports are preferable, since they are able to withstand a lot of weight and at the same time not deform, as sometimes happens with a bar. The cost of one support will cost about $ 2-3.
All installed supports are connected by longitudinal beams - crossbars. The formwork will rest on them. Crossbars can be made of channel or I-beam.
Above the crossbars, a horizontal formwork is arranged, the edges of which must exactly fit with the walls so that there are no gaps left.

Important: the height of the supports must be adjusted so that the top edge of the plywood sheets is precisely aligned with the top edges of the walls of the house along the perimeter.

Now the vertical sides of the formwork are being mounted. They should protrude 15 cm from the inner edge of the walls. The height of the vertical formwork must correspond to the design height of the slab.

Important: all verticals and horizontals of the formwork are checked with a level.

Fitting installation

To enhance the strength of the cast monolith, it must be reinforced. We'll have to tie two nets of steel rods with a cross section of 10-12 mi. The nets are knitted with cells of 20x20 cm. It should be borne in mind that, most likely, the length of one whole rod may not be enough for the length of the mesh. And so you have to finish off the fittings. Here the rods are joined with a viscous overlap of 40 cm.

Important: the fittings only need to be knitted with steel wire. Welding is prohibited, since steel welding reduces its strength and technical characteristics.

The connected reinforcement (two grids) are interconnected with longitudinal rods in such a way that from the lower and upper edges of the concrete the mesh is covered with a solution of 2-3 cm.
The fittings are installed on supports special for this.
It is also worth remembering that the mesh rods should go on the walls of the house by 15 cm (for brickwork) and 25 cm (for foam and aerated concrete).
The end ends of the rods should not touch the walls of the vertical formwork.
And in order to calculate the distance between two grids, it is necessary to subtract the indents from the upper and lower edges (20 cm + 20 cm = 40 cm) from the total height of the slab, as well as 4 thicknesses of the rod used.
Longitudinal clamps between the meshes are knitted in increments of 1 m and only in a checkerboard pattern.
It is also worth installing end clamps. They are mounted on the ends of the mesh with a step of 40 cm in order to strengthen the supporting ability of the slab on the walls of the house.
Additionally, a connector is installed for both grids. It allows you to evenly distribute the load on the slab throughout the entire thickness. The connector is fixed with a pitch of 40 cm in the places where the plate rests on the wall, and at a distance of 70 cm from the walls of the house already with a pitch of 20 cm.

Important: for installation in the overlap of technological holes, it is necessary to install all the necessary boxes and sleeves in advance.

Pouring solution

It is necessary to pour the concrete mixture continuously immediately to the specified thickness. To do this, it is better to buy ready-made concrete in a construction mixer, and not use homemade (home-made). Since the solution, mixed and poured in stages, will not give the desired strength to the overlap.

The mortar poured into the formwork must be tamped with a construction vibrator, but trying not to touch the reinforcement, so as not to displace it. The finished monolithic floor slab will dry for about a month. During this time, it is necessary to additionally moisten the concrete, especially in the first week (but subject to hot dry weather). It is at the same time that it is better to cover the monolith with a film in order to prevent it from abruptly drying out and cracking.

Important: overlapping the first floor with your own hands will cost about 55 USD / m2 of a monolithic slab. The price includes all building materials and bulk materials, as well as the rental of a construction mixer and the purchase of a ready-made mortar.

Provides stability not only with a reliable foundation, but also with a system of solid floors. They are also necessary in any in order to equip a basement or garage under it, and erect a roof above it. Overlapping structures account for up to 20 percent or more of all construction costs. Therefore, their installation is a very serious and responsible business.

Installation of interfloor ceilings in a house from a bar

Interfloor;
Basement;
Basements.

The greatest load in the house falls on the basement and basement. Their horizontal partitions must withstand the weight of kitchen equipment, as well as the weight of the internal walls dividing the first floor into the hallway and dining room.

Scheme for arranging concrete floor slabs

In addition, they, together with the foundation, must ensure the stable rigidity of the body made of any material: wood, brick, aerated concrete. For some, it rises above ground level. If it is heated, then the structure covering it is practically no different from the interfloor devices.

The horizontal partition, designed to separate the floors, has a relatively small load: its own weight, furniture, residents. It is important that it has good sound insulation for a comfortable stay. or this problem is not so acute. For them, moisture insulation and insulation are important.

Floor types by material

Wooden;
Reinforced concrete;
Metallic.

However, in some cases, when building a house, you can do without them, because the following types of floors are used according to the structural design:

Some ceiling systems are supported by horizontal beams. For the installation of other beams, they are not required, the slabs of the required dimensions, ordered from the factory, are sufficient. Stacked in the house using lifting equipment. And monolithic floors are poured directly on the construction site. Precast monolithic devices between floors are a combination of beam supports and a concrete monolith.

Coffered horizontal structures are usually used for arranging the ceiling. On the lower side of them there are ribs that make up rectangles, in the aggregate, they resemble the surface of a waffle. In private housing construction they are used very rarely. And the hipped roof is a flat slab bordered by ribs. Usually, it alone is enough for the ceiling of the entire room, to the size of which it is made.

Arched devices are necessary when it is required to block the curly spans of houses. In private one and two-story houses, aerated concrete slabs are used. The overlapping structure made of it has very good sound insulation, retains heat for a long time, therefore, additional insulation in the interfloor partitions may be superfluous. The material is lightweight, odorless, no fumes or harmful substances emanate from it.

Its fire resistance is also very high. But he needs effective waterproofing, since he absorbs moisture from the environment well.

In construction practice, partitions are used with a mixture of various materials. Wooden beams are reinforced with metal to increase strength. Monolithic structures use a variety of non-removable formwork. Sometimes their main part is hollow concrete panels, and the ceiling of a semicircular bay window is aerated concrete slabs, which can be easily given any shape and thickness using a hand saw.

A variant of the construction of the floor from aerated concrete blocks

Such a variety of materials expands the architectural possibilities of overlapping devices, their sound insulation and insulation.

Floor requirements

All interfloor devices have general requirements:

Strength is the ability to support the weight of all building elements.
Rigidity that allows you not to bend under the weight of your own weight, heavy things on the floor.
Effective thermal insulation and sound insulation of floors.
Fire resistance, which is characterized by resistance to fire for some time.
A service life that corresponds approximately to the use time of the entire building.

Wooden beams

In the construction of country houses, solid larch or pine beams are widespread. They are used for installation of ceilings with a width of 5 m. And for large spans, glued ones are used, the strength of which is much higher.

Installation of floors from wooden beams

Rounded timber is a wonderful building material for floors. It is laid with the north side down, defining it at the end by the density of the growth rings in a wooden log. In Russia, for a long time, huts were built with a more durable side of round timber outward.

A wooden I-beam has high strength. Its profile is the letter "H", glued in the factory from three parts. Some craftsmen collect it in their home workshop or in the country. Interfloor partitions with their use provide effective insulation and excellent sound insulation.

Scheme of the construction of wooden floors from logs

They are very convenient not only for filing the ceiling, laying insulating materials and sub-flooring, but also for installing all communications. Niches in the I-beam seem to be specially designed for hidden laying of water supply pipes, gas pipelines and electrical lines.

Wooden beams are used in almost any low-rise dwelling: wooden, block. But most of all they are suitable for buildings made of aerated concrete blocks. This material is porous, inferior in strength to all others and does not withstand the point load of load-bearing beams. Since the wood is not heavy, gas-block walls can quite withstand its weight. Installation of the overlapping structure is possible without the involvement of complex technical means. And it will cost the developer relatively inexpensive.

Laying wooden beams

Builders are aware of the disadvantages of wood and try to keep them to a minimum. Before installing the floor, all wooden parts are treated with antiseptics that prevent rotting, damage by insects. The places of contact of timber beams with bricks, concrete slabs and aerated concrete blocks are insulated with various materials.

And in order to increase fire safety, wood is treated with solutions that do not allow it to flare up immediately when an open fire appears.

Installation of interfloor structures begins with pre-prepared load-bearing beams. They are laid parallel to the short wall of the dwelling. The laying step depends on the width of the span, but on average it is 1 m.Further, you will need simple materials that provide insulation, and you also cannot do without the following tools:

The process of installing timber beams and planks

saws;
hammer;
assembly knife;
roulette;
construction stapler.

The beams are reinforced with anchors in the niches of the brick wall. But before laying, make an oblique cut at the ends of the timber and impregnate it with an antiseptic. The area of contact of wood with brick is smeared, wrapped with roofing material. The ends of the supports in the niches should be tightly closed. Crevices can be filled with polyurethane foam.

Then logs for the floor are laid on the supporting beams, and rubber gaskets are placed under them in order to reduce the vibration of the structure. From below, a ceiling filing is performed. Attic and basement ceiling devices need insulation. Interfloor partitions can be dispensed with, but good sound insulation is required.

Slabs are special structures that separate floors. They can be made from various materials and be of a wide variety of types. Individual building is becoming more and more popular. A large number of city dwellers dream of getting out of their apartments and becoming the owner of a spacious house. In order for the structure to be of high quality and reliable, it is necessary to consider the types and features of the overlap.

Floor slabs in a private house

The ceiling structure has different variations, but there are rules that work in relation to each option: the ceiling must be rigid, reliable and adaptable to the expected load.

The overlap is a structure, the purpose of which is the division of adjacent zones in height. We can say that this is a ceiling space that separates the living area from the roof area and basement. The main requirement is imposed on this structure - strength, due to the fact that bulky objects will be installed on it and residents of the house will move. There are certain building parameters for floors: for the upper, attic floor, the loaded weight should not be more than one hundred kilograms per square meter, as for the overlap between floors, it must withstand a load of up to two hundred kilograms per square meter. The second, no less important condition for overlap is stiffness. It should not "play" from loads and bend.

You should also think about soundproofing when building such a floor yourself. This can be achieved by filling up cracks and gaps at the joints. Those structures that will differentiate residential and non-residential areas require the use of an additional layer of thermal insulation materials.

Overlapping in a private house with your own hands

In a private dwelling, there can be a variety of floors, which can be grouped as follows:

basements - separate non-residential unheated premises;
basement - in fact, the floor of the first floor;
attic - serve as protection of living quarters from the high and low temperatures of the attic;
attic - divide structures by height.

The basic requirements for floors were listed above: strength, rigidity and a high level of sound insulation. In addition, the following features can be noted:

fire resistance - in the event of a fire, it is necessary to have a margin of time for evacuation;
heat-saving qualities - it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier as a barrier to the formation of condensation;
waterproofing is a necessary condition, provided that the overlap borders on a non-residential premises;
resistance to mold and mildew.

The structures that are being erected are of two types: prefabricated and monolithic. Or another name for the structures - girder and non-girder. The girder version consists of lag and filler, and the non-girder version consists of tile or panel components.

Installation of floors in a private house

Before erecting a floor in your own house with your own hands, you should process the wood using a special solution that will prevent the development of microorganisms and mold. Provided that the beams will be inserted into concrete walls or stone, the edges of the tree should be carefully wrapped in roofing material. A so-called nest is prepared in advance, where the beam will be inserted. It should have a beveled edge. After installation, the socket with the beam is filled with polyurethane foam.

In a private house, the construction of a floor involves the manufacture of a roll. These are the bars that are necessary for the future ceiling covering.

The issue of sound and thermal insulation deserves special attention. Two goals can be achieved with such materials at once: sand, slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, mineral wool, sawdust. Not all of the listed materials are ideal as they do not “breathe”. The best material is considered to be mineral wool, as an option, which perfectly allows air to pass through itself.

On the reel, waterproofing materials are first located, after which there is a layer of thermal insulation.

Floor options in wooden houses

There are such types of floors:

wooden;
reinforced concrete;
metal.

But in modern structures there are such overlap options:

bezel-less;
caisson;
prefabricated monolithic;
aerated concrete.

For some overlap options, it is necessary to use horizontal logs, others require factory floor slabs, which are laid using special lifting equipment. Monolithic ceilings are poured in place. Prefabricated monolithic structures - a combination of a concrete monolith with beam supports. Coffered ceilings in their own homes are almost never used.

Beam floors in a private house

In beam structures, the basic basis is beams that are installed at an equidistant distance. Materials for filling are laid on them. It can be wood, reinforced concrete or metal.

In your own private dwelling, floors made of wooden material are most often used, it is used for:

intermediate floors - when the span is five meters;
attic floors - when the size of the surface is more than six meters, as for metal beams, they have no restrictions and can be used with an arbitrary width of the spans.

The wood floor is based on light wood species. The construction of a beam floor includes the following elements:

beams;
roll forward;
floor;
insulation.

The main advantage of using a wooden floor is the fact that it is installed quickly and easily, without the use of special fixtures. No construction equipment is needed, and the coating itself is inexpensive and lightweight.

The disadvantages of wood flooring are that the wood is a fire hazardous object, is attacked by microorganisms and is prone to mold formation.

Do-it-yourself floor slabs in a private building: monolithic, reinforced concrete and aerated concrete

Monolithic floors have a large number of advantages: a flat surface that has no joints or seams. For the construction of such floors, no special equipment is needed. The procedure for pouring slabs is complex and requires skill. To carry out such a procedure, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and things:

high quality cement;
crushed stone or slag;
sand;
high quality metal fittings;
reinforcing mesh;
wooden boards;
props for formwork.

First, vertical supports are exposed, plywood or similar material is placed on top for pouring mortar. It is necessary to make a formwork and pour concrete. Due to its complexity and laboriousness, this option is almost never used in multi-storey private buildings.

Reinforced concrete slabs are another option for overlapping. These are factory materials nine meters long. They are supported by load-bearing walls. Proper styling is very important to avoid distortion. Plates are of two types:

void;
flat voidless.

Plates are laid on a slurry that adheres well to the slab. The gaps must be carefully repaired, and then the entire surface must be repaired with a screed.

If the private property is low-rise and is made of an aerated concrete block, an aerated concrete structure is considered a convenient and high-quality way to overlap. They can be ordered in the required size directly from the factory. When mounted, the blocks are interconnected using special connectors or clamps. To transport the material, you need to hire a car. As a result, the idea will be expensive, in addition to paying for the material ordered by size, it is necessary to pay for transportation, unloading, lifting and installation. It is cheaper to install the floor with your own hands during the construction of the building.

Metal ceiling in a private house

Undoubtedly, metal beams are a more durable material and can serve without the limitations and problems that arise with wooden structures. Due to the strength of the material, it is possible to save space by making the overlap to a minimum thickness. But with all the attractiveness and advantages, metal floors are rarely used. The most commonly used wooden version.

The gaps between the beams are filled with concrete mortar or wooden boards. The total weight of the structure will be as follows: a square meter of overlap will weigh about four hundred kilograms.

Large spans can be covered with metal beams. The advantage of such structures is their fire resistance, resistance to microorganisms, mold, termites.

The disadvantages of this type of structure are that areas in contact with moisture corrode. To avoid this, problem areas are wrapped with felt.

Most often, a rolling profile is used for such structures. During the installation process, reinforced concrete slabs are laid between the beams, and from above they are covered with a layer of slag or reinforced concrete material.

For this type of overlap, use:

metal corners;
reinforced concrete slabs;
plaster mesh;
materials for waterproofing;
flooring from boards.

A tangible disadvantage of this option is the need to use special equipment.

What to make an overlap in a private house

Having analyzed all the possible options for making floors in a private home, it can be argued that a wooden floor is rightfully considered one of the most optimal for a private building. This design is based only on wood: load-bearing beams and floorboards. A solid timber or board goes into the bearing beams. The material is available and can be applied to any walls: aerated concrete, brick or timber. Most home craftsmen use this material.

Speaking about wooden floors, the main characteristics of such a structure should be highlighted:

cost - the price of wood is affordable;
durability - depends on the quality of service and conditions of use, as a rule, it is from thirty to fifty years;
complexity of manufacturing - considered to be of medium complexity, but does not require special equipment;
fire safety is one of the most flammable materials, but the risk can be reduced by treating the wood surface with fire retardants;
weight - the structure is considered light, the approximate weight of one square meter is forty kilograms;
maintenance - it is necessary to use protective compounds: from microorganisms, mold, fungus.

Among the positive aspects of a wooden floor are:

profitability - the price is much less than other overlap options;
light weight - light weight compared to metal;
no need for finishing;
ease of installation - no technique or special knowledge is needed for self-installation;
versatility - the ability to use such a structure for a building made of any material;
the ability to hide the insulation - the thermal insulation is hidden behind the cladding boards.

But there are also disadvantages to a hardwood floor. Let's dwell on them:

creak - after some time of operation, the wooden structure will begin to creak;
high fire hazard - wooden materials are subject to combustion, quickly catch fire and support the process;
the need for additional maintenance - in order for the structure to serve the maximum amount of time, it is necessary to treat it with protective agents and mixtures;
low mechanical strength - the material lends itself to impact and can partially deform;
difficulty in the construction of large spans - it is impossible to use this structure on surfaces more than five meters.

If you have any questions about installing a floor in a private house with your own hands, you can watch the video at the end of the article. There you will find answers to all questions on the topic of overlapping in a private house.