The technology of assembling the walls of a house or a bath from a building bar. How to fasten the beam together? How to fasten a profiled beam to each other

He is faced with the question of how to fasten wood elements. The first thought that occurs to him is to use nails for this. But at the same time, many people worry that they will rust under the influence of dampness. This can lead to damage and destruction of wood at the joints of the beams. But still nails can be used to connect wooden elements baths. Moreover, experts offer two options for fastening the beams - with the help of dowels or nails.

The use of dowels in the construction of a bath

Nagels are fasteners made of wood. They have a rather large thickness, their diameter is usually at least 3 cm. In order to install the dowel, you need to cut a hole in the beam into which it will fit. In this case, the fastener itself should be slightly less in thickness than the diameter of the hole prepared for it. But at the same time, the dowel should not be too thin for its groove. He must enter into it tightly. Otherwise, the necessary strength of the connection of the wooden elements of the bath will not be ensured.

To create an even hole for the dowel in the bars, you will need powerful drill and a long drill. The groove for the dowel must be done very carefully so that later it is not necessary to close the free distance between it and the fastener. You also need to pay attention to the choice of material for the dowel. It must be made of durable wood that can withstand significant loads. How strong the fastener will be depends on how strong and safe the connection of the bars will be.

Use of nails

If the future owner of the bathhouse still wants to fasten the timber with nails, he needs to know a few important points:

only long nails are suitable for connecting the beams - at least 25 cm. Smaller fasteners will not provide the required fastening reliability;
nails are not hammered directly into the beam; holes are prepared for them in advance. However, they should be longer than the nail itself. As in the case of dowels, the nails should fit tightly into the holes created for them;
holes are created vertically in the beam, and the nails in them must be recessed at least 3 cm deep from the top edge of the beam. This is necessary so that during the shrinkage process wood material the fastener did not rest against the beam located in the next row. If this happens, then under the influence of the force of the metal, the wood in the place where the nail is located may begin to crack. The result is the formation of cracks into which air will blow in, precipitation will begin to fall. In addition, as a result of moisture entering the beam, metal fasteners will begin to rust. And the rust will destroy wooden walls baths.

Which is better: dowels or nails

To use pins, you need to order their manufacture from durable wood. Fasteners made of inexpensive pine or birch will not work. In addition, it must be resistant to moisture. If the pins collapse under the influence of dampness, this will negatively affect the strength of the building.

Nails - best option for fastening the beam. It is only necessary to choose fasteners with anti-corrosion protection, which will not allow them to deteriorate under the influence of dampness. If you manage to correctly install the nails into the timber, then there will be no risk of rusting at all, since they will be located inside the wood, and they will not have contact with air and moisture. Another advantage of using nails is their low cost. In addition, their service life is longer than that of wooden dowels.

If you are planning to build a timber or log house, ask how the workers will connect the crowns to each other. If with nails or even with rebar, consider whether you need to invite this team.

When the neighbors summer cottage decided to build a house from a bar, they found a company that is ready to realize their desire. There, they made an estimate for them, but explained that this total cost of work is valid if the box at home is assembled on nails. And if the customer wants the crowns of the house to be assembled on wooden pins, then you need to pay more than 50,000 rubles. For advice on what to do, they came to me.

Let's estimate the price

Even if the builder, ignoring common sense, decides to build a timber or log house on nails, it will cost him more! I'll explain in more detail.

Under construction wooden house boards with a thickness of 25 mm are widely used - the so-called inch. It is used for the manufacture of formwork, subfloor, lathing and other purposes. From the boards inevitably remain short cuts suitable only for firewood. Of these, it is possible to prepare pins, as they say, for nothing.

When I was building a log house, I cut blanks 120 mm long from the accumulated scraps of an inch board on a miter saw. Then he disbanded them band saw along the bars of square section 25 * 25 mm. Then with a hatchet he sharpened these bars on both sides. In a few hours, I prepared more than 600 pins - for the whole house! The purchase of the same number of nails 6x 200 mm will require more than 6,000 rubles.

Log house assembly

Collecting crowns on such dowels is a pleasure! First, two adjacent beams are placed in a given position and the place of each dowel is marked. The upper bar is turned over and, using a square and a simple template, the markings are transferred to the central axis of the upper and lower bars. It remains to drill holes in both beams and hammer the dowels into lower crown. Then stacked interventional insulation and install the upper beam with holes on pointed dowels. For upsetting, you can walk along the beam and knock with a sledgehammer.

I use a cheap spade drill with a depth mark. Of course, the total depth of the holes in both bars should be more length pins, otherwise, during shrinkage, the bars will hang on the pins with the formation of cracks. Short pins do not interfere with the normal shrinkage of the beam box: they work on a cut, fixing the position of the beams.

Hammering a square dowel into a round hole is a little unusual, but practical! If the wall is deaf, then I place the dowels every 1.0-1.5 m in a checkerboard pattern. For a wall, regardless of its width, at least two dowels are needed.

Once I saw a picture of how workers were assembling a house from a bar on long wooden dowels, similar to rake handles. They lifted another heavy damp beam and drilled into the wall with a long drill - not cheap, I must say. Subsequently, the house hung on these sticks during shrinkage, huge gaps formed between the crowns. Even when assembling furniture, it is impossible to drill strictly vertically shallow holes for dowels and self-tapping screws, just holding a drill in your hand. In the case of a house, deviations from the vertical are inevitable and very large!

Now about nails

As with the assembly on long wooden dowels, the house can hang on the nails during shrinkage (Fig. 1). It is difficult to hammer long nails into a beam without drilling. This means that labor intensity will increase and the estimate will increase, since nails of this size are not cheap. On the market, one nail 6x 200 mm costs on average more than 10 rubles apiece (I have already said about the manufacture of short dowels).

But you don't have to give up nails completely. For example, the uppermost crown connected to the veranda, or spacer inserts between the rafter beams, can be easily fixed with nails.

Often there is a layout when a large span cannot be blocked wooden beams without intermediate support. A wall or column usually acts as such a support. But when you need to do without them, use a reinforced beam (Fig. 2). It is assembled from two bars fastened with nails. Moreover, if you hammer nails at an angle, then the strength of the connection will be even higher. I usually do this - I put a support under the not yet connected beams of the composite beam so that there is no sagging. Then I fasten the bars with nails, after which I remove the support.

In conclusion, I will say: each material has its place! Applying dowels and nails in those places where it is needed, we get a warm and durable house without extra costs!

How to connect the crowns of the log house: methods in the photo

Drilling the crown under the dowels.
Installation of dowels in the crown
To drive a large nail into a dry board or timber, it is advisable to drill a hole using a long bit.
Nagels, sawn from scraps of the board.
Rice. 1. Assembly of the wall: a - on nails; 6 - on pins. When assembling on nails, normal shrinkage of the log house is impossible, gaps will form between the crowns. The length of the dowel must be less than the total depth of the holes in the top and lower bars crowns.
Fixing the top crown with a nail.
Rice. 2. The run, knocked down with nails from two beams, serves as an intermediate support for floor beams.
Spacers from a bar between the rafter beams can be fastened with nails.
If the span to be covered is large, then a composite beam assembled from two beams fastened with long nails is used as a run.

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Connecting a beam is not the most difficult and difficult task. But you should be prepared. This will require:

A measuring tool (tape measure, joiner's corner, level) and a pencil, with their help, the forming surfaces of the fastening are marked.

Saw, possibly a hand saw

or chain with electric drive,

but it is better to use a mechanism with a gasoline engine;

Hammer, drill and screwdriver.

Ways of angular connection of a bar

Now that everything is ready, we determine in what cases it is necessary to resort to joining the beam. There are two such moments:

when arranging corners in a future log house;
with insufficient length of the acquired timber.

And the ways of such fastening are very diverse. The choice of one method or another depends on specific situation and master's decisions. The joining of a beam differs in many respects from the joining of log structures. Nowadays modern technologies old-fashioned methods of fastening lumber are constantly being improved. The most popular two methods of fixation: with the remainder, and without.

Let's consider both options.

The connection of the corner with the remainder "in the oblo" or "in the bowl"

This method consists in the use of key grooves. They can be one-, two-, and four-sided.

Four-sided groove

A one-sided groove is obtained as a result of a perpendicular notch from the upper side of the timber. The width to be matched cross section timber.

Double sided groove

The technique of cutting a double-sided groove involves sawing a beam from two opposite sides of the upper and lower. The value of the depth of cut is equal to the fourth part of the side of the perpendicular section. This method gives a high-quality connection, but requires a high qualification of the performer.

Four-sided groove

The name of the four-sided groove speaks for itself. In this case, cuts are made from all sides. This method gives a reliable fixation, log cabins made in this way are incredibly durable. The presence of grooves simplifies the installation of the crowns, they are assembled like a Lego constructor. Mounting in this way is only possible for professionals.

Connections without residue

butt

The most elementary in complexity is the method of fixing the beam end-to-end. It consists in joining the beam to each other and fastening with studded metal plates, further fixing with self-tapping screws. \ In this case, the strength and density of such a connection depends on the impeccability of the surfaces of the timber, and they are rarely perfectly even, and on the skill of the performer. Careful adjustment of the ends of the combined ends is so laborious that it is even beyond the power of professionals. Therefore, the use of this method is unlikely to be appropriate in the construction of a residential building, but it will come in handy in the construction of utility rooms, where the tightness of the corners is not important.

For residential buildings, it is better to use other, more reliable methods of fastening the timber.

Corner joints with dowels

Keyed connection

The strength of such a bond is achieved by using a special wedge made of hard wood, called dowels.
Installing such a part in the groove of the beam eliminates shifts in the joints.
Please note that the strength of the connection is provided by a type of wedge, which can be longitudinal, transverse and oblique. An oblique wedge is tricky to make, but to be fair, it guarantees maximum strength and thermal conductivity of the corner.

Castle "in the root spike"

Such a connection is considered the most effective in terms of heat retention. Among the people there is a definition of it as " warm corner"". Therefore, it is considered the most popular in the construction of timber houses.

The technological process consists in making a groove in one of the mating beams, and a spike in the other, of similar dimensions and their further combination.
When making a house, laying insulation, which can be linen or jute fabric and felt, is mandatory.
In this case, the main condition for minimal heat loss is a tight alignment of the connection elements.
Additionally, to increase the strength of the house structure, it is necessary to alternate spikes with grooves in the corner crowns and fasten them with round wooden dowels.
When using dowels, prisecs and fat tails in fasteners, it is necessary to leave vertical gaps between the elements of the lock, they will serve as a compensator when the house shrinks.

Fastening "in half a tree"

This is a fairly simple way to cut corners. It is carried out by transverse sawing half the thickness of the beam, which served as the name of the method. Before starting assembly at points near corner connections a hole is drilled for installing a dowel or dowel. The nagel should overlap several crowns of the log house at once.

Fastening "in the paw"

Similar to half-timber fastening, but the cut is made at an angle, which helps to retain heat.

Dovetail connection

The most reliable, durable and practically no heat loss is the T-shaped notch "Dovetail". In fact, this is a root spike, but not a rectangular, trapezoidal shape. The grooves are made in the same way. This is a rather laborious and expensive way of fastening a beam.

In addition to the traditional dovetail allocate whole line other T-shaped joints of the beam:

lock groove on the plug-in spike;
symmetrical trapezoidal spike, or "frying pan";
a rectangular spike, or "half-pan";
asymmetrical trapezoidal spike, or "deaf frying pan";
straight groove on the root tenon.

Longitudinal connection methods

In construction, sometimes a beam is needed longer standard size which is equal to 6 meters. Therefore, there is a need for longitudinal splicing of the timber. In these cases, the already familiar methods “in half a tree”, “in a spike” and “on a dowel” are used. However, the most durable and reliable method of longitudinal connection is considered to be an oblique lock. It is more time consuming and difficult to manufacture, but it's worth it.

Metal fasteners for timber

Beam fasteners are special elements made of alloyed alloys used to connect wooden structures. They can be both domestic and foreign production. Among the many fasteners, complex parts can be distinguished: supports, angles, couplings and washers, and simple elements: anchors, screws, nails and staples.

Complex fasteners

The support is a fastening perforated part made of a steel profile with a thickness of 2 mm and subjected to the application of an anti-corrosion zinc layer. It is a corner-shaped structure and serves to fasten the floor beams to the wall of the house. According to the type of construction, the support can be divided into open and closed type. Connect it to the timber with screws, screws or nails. Supports for all standard sizes of a bar are issued.

The coupling with washers is an M20 nut with a stud welded to a metal plate. The main purpose is to compensate for the shrinkage of the timber.

Connecting corners are made from sheet metal with a thickness of 2 mm and galvanized. Corner fasteners are available in a perforated version with a length of 120 to 175 mm. The choice of products is carried out depending on the weight of the structure.

simple fastener

Nagels can be metal and wooden. Reinforcement is used as a material for production. They are used to fasten crowns of timber to each other. Metal pins have high strength and are able to prevent any deformation of the timber. However, due to the corrugated surface, which can disrupt the structure of the solid wood, and the incompatibility of metal and wood, it is more advisable to use wooden dowels.

They are usually made from birch or other hardwoods. The strength of wooden elements is almost as good as the reliability of metal products, while they are ideal for a house made of timber, preventing its deformation. Dowels are made of round and square wood.

Spring knot "Force"

The product is a bolt with a spring and wood carving, made of high-strength anti-corrosion alloy. Fastening the beam with such an element as the “Force” Knot ensures the strength and stability of the connection, and the absence of deformation and torsion. In addition, the product additionally loads the crowns themselves, which prevents the formation of cracks and gaps during shrinkage. The recommended installation of fasteners on one beam is at least 4 pieces.

Nails, metal staples

Nails, as well as metal staples, are a good fastener, but not for timber. Using them to connect the timber is erroneous. Nails corrode and become unusable, while spoiling the wood. Based on these shortcomings, the use of nails and metal staples should be abandoned.

Since with the help of nails any structure is fastened firmly, it is better to connect parts with them, and not to hammer together walls.

Wooden type - has properties such as absorbing and releasing moisture, so the connection of the timber must be movable.

And you can also watch the video Fixing logs with dowels

Tailored for you:

To build a house from a bar, it is not enough to purchase a log house. To assemble it and give the structures rigidity, you will need fasteners for the timber. These are various auxiliary elements that will ensure the proper level of security and integrity of the cottage, gazebo, bath.

corners

Perforated corners are used in the assembly of houses, furniture and other wooden structures. The size of their shelves is 20 ... 200 mm, which allows you to choose a product for any occasion. In its walls there are holes for fasteners 14 ... 55 mm (the larger the corner, the larger the holes).

There are two types of corner fasteners:

ordinary corner;
reinforced with a stiffener.

Conventional is made from hot-rolled galvanized steel, which ensures its absolute resistance to high humidity. Reinforced made of carbon cold rolled steel, it is suitable for indoor and outdoor use.

Beam holder

To work with roofing and hardwood floors, you will need a beam holder. This element complex shape designed to connect beams under different angle. Suitable for:

assembly wooden floors;
floors;
truss systems.

Unlike metal corners for fastening the beam, the holder has an increased width of the shelves, which are offset relative to each other.

support for timber

For fastening floor beams, rafter legs an open beam support is used to the base and other similar nodes. It allows you to rely on wooden base, and on stone and concrete wall using screws, nails without pre-drilling, reliably and quickly. Since the mounting ears look in different sides, they can be opened at any angle, not just 90°.

Another type of this fastener is the closed beam support. Her distinguishing feature: mounting ears, which are attached to the wall, are turned towards each other in such a way that the product becomes almost invisible in the working position. It is used for the same mounting purposes as open. Moreover, it is possible to securely fix not only the timber rectangular section but also in a different form.

The open and closed support are used for the same purpose, but the closed ones are considered more reliable - when attaching the beam, the ears are additionally clamped, the connection is strong and almost imperceptible.

sliding support

In the process of service, wood changes its volume either up at high humidity, then into a smaller one during the period summer heat. Accordingly, this leads to a natural movement of the beams in the plane, which means that it is necessary to use fasteners that will adapt to this movement.

Metal fasteners for beams sliding support for rafters allows you to fix structural elements not by rigid fixation, but by a movable connection - the shelf supporting the beam moves within a few centimeters. Thus, a balanced design is obtained, which will not be broken when the humidity changes, which is especially important for the roof and unheated attics in particular.

plates

To connect the bars in one plane, a straight plate with perforation is used. It is made from 2.5 mm thick galvanized steel.

The plate is suitable for connecting:

roof system beams;
logs;
floor systems etc.

Beam support adjustable

This is a combined fastener, which consists of two plates held on a threaded screw stud by means of nuts. It is used to compensate for the shrinkage of the timber box after erection.

When building a house, adjustable supports are installed under the main structural parts of the box. When the house settles, with the help of nuts, the plates are moved vertically to completely balance the horizon of the strapping belt.

Nail plate

This unusual but widely used type of fastener is similar to a regular plate only in name: on inside slats are small studs. The product itself may different shape and length. It is applied for:

installation of roof systems;
floor installations;
fixing wall beams.

Anchors

For attaching timber to stone and concrete base use a metal anchor with a conical countersunk head. The element is made of metal, so it has high strength. The anchor is necessary for fixing the wood to the foundation, connecting the walls of the basement and the house box, when sheathing the stone facade. A feature of the fastener is its invisibility - it can be installed even on the front side of the log.

Nagels

Nagel is a wooden long stick of a solid square or round section, which is used to connect wall beams to each other. The fastener provides the rigidity of the wall.

Holes for the dowel are pre-drilled in the timber, then several rows of timber are assembled, after which the dowel is hammered.

Since ancient times, wooden houses were built in Russia without the use of nails. Such structures were very strong and reliable. Today, wooden houses, especially cobbled ones, are also very popular in suburban construction. In such buildings, nails are only hammered together individual parts, since the walls should not be of rigid construction. They must have a certain mobility, because during the operation the tree either gains or releases moisture, changing its dimensions. Also, over time, nails rust and spoil the wood. Therefore, it will be further considered how to fasten the beam without the use of nails.

Beam connection options

The main types are the following:

Longitudinal joint, which is used when increasing the length of the log in one crown. With this connection, the displacement of the material relative to the longitudinal axis is prevented.
Crown. This type connection is used to connect elements placed in adjacent crowns or layers of the wall. It prevents the logs from moving in a horizontal plane under the influence of gravity. upper elements the buildings.
The corner joint is used for mounting logs when constructing the corners of a building. Prevents walls from moving relative to each other.
T-shaped connection is used to form the interior walls of the house. Prevents displacement inner wall and its breakdowns.

When using a certain articulation option, it is necessary to take into account the level of your skill when working with timber and wood tools, as well as the complexity and expediency of the chosen installation method.

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Longitudinal connection

During the construction of a wooden house, quite often there is a need for a longitudinal connection of a beam to increase its length. Due to the fact that the docking points are most susceptible to various kinds of deformations, it is better to reduce the number of such places to a minimum. It is recommended to use such splicing in places such as internal walls and piers, because they are less prone to deformation.

You can fasten the timber together using various locking joints or using a longitudinal spike. The most popular and easy to perform is the articulation with a straight or oblique half-wood lock.

In the case of using this method, the bars are recommended to be additionally fixed with wooden dowels at the points of contact of the surfaces.

The use of a central spike allows you to achieve a better connection of the timber. The size of the stud is selected so that its length is 2 times the width of the beam, and the depth of the nest for the stud is made slightly larger than its length. For a better connection, the central tongue can be combined with a lock connection or veneer can be used.

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Crown joint of timber

This type of connection allows you to fix the timber along the horizontal plane, which they are in contact with each other during the construction of the walls of the building. For its implementation, the following mounting methods are used:

with the use of plug-in dowels and spikes;
using metal pins;
wooden dowels;
using milled locks;
using self-tapping screws;
using staples.

If for fastening any metal elements, it must be remembered that at the points of contact between metal and wood, increased corrosion of the former occurs, which over time leads to premature damage to structural elements. This method timber fastening is the simplest, cheapest and most unreliable, therefore it can be used only in cases where other connection options cannot be used for any reason.

If you still decide to save money and time and connect the timber with nails, then use special nails without a hat for this, which you can make yourself from a wire with a diameter of 6 mm, which must be melted. To do this, the upper beam is pre-drilled through with a drill. In this case, you need to know that this installation method will eventually lead to cracks in the wood that will need to be caulked.

The use of self-tapping screws and staples is an additional and temporary means of fastening, because these elements are short-lived and unreliable, they spoil appearance walls.

The most common method of crown articulation is wooden dowels. In this case, instead of metal product wooden pegs with a section of any shape (round, rectangular, multifaceted) are used, which are hammered into the prepared holes, and the next log is mounted on the part that will stick out. For the manufacture of dowels, it is necessary to use a durable wood species. At the same time, the dowels should have their own fibers perpendicular to the timber fibers and have less moisture than the wood from which the house parts are made. This method is simple in execution, but at the same time it is quite reliable and durable.