We build a barn with our own hands. How to build a frame shed with a pitched roof: in detail about the demanded construction options DIY wooden frame shed: step by step with a photo

Before you build a barn with your own hands, let's figure out why you need it and whether you need it at all. A barn is an outbuilding that is designed to store various things, for example, construction tools, materials, small equipment etc. At the first time, when the house is being built, it can be used as temporary housing in warm time of the year. In any case, you should have at least a simple structure on your site.

What is the best way to build a barn quickly and cheaply? The simplest and fastest solution would be to erect a frame building. At the same time, you can keep within the budget of just a few hundred dollars, it all depends on the size and materials.

I decided to build a shed with my own hands as soon as the land was purchased for building a house. This is the first building on my site. I started the construction in late autumn, so the work took place in two stages.

In principle, it is not necessary to design a barn. By by and large this structure is being built from those materials that are available, and if something is missing, then it is simply bought in addition and that's it. But if you, like me, are building a shed from scratch, and do not have any materials, then it is better to make not even a project, but a schematic drawing. This will help you calculate the required amount of materials and purchase them at one time, while saving your time and money on transportation costs.

Since I already have a little experience in designing, I made myself a simple barn project. Even having a project, during the construction process, I made some design changes for one reason or another. This suggests that, even with drawings, it is impossible to foresee everything.

According to the project, I will have a shed 4.5x3 m with shed roof... The height of the room in the lower part is 2.2 m in the upper part - 2.7 m. Now I would build a shed below, for example 1.8 m down and 2.3 m up.

Foundation construction

Since the barn was planned to be made by frame technology, then the foundation can be made columnar with blocks. For these purposes, I used a hollow concrete block (I simply did not find a solid one), the voids of which were filled with mortar.

The first step is to decide on the place and only then proceed to the marking of the building spot. For marking, I needed wooden pegs and twine (you can use fishing line, rope). I drove the pegs further than the building spots at a distance of about a meter so that they would not interfere with me when installing the blocks.

Having pulled the twine, I checked the diagonals, they should be equal. I marked the places where the blocks would be installed and began to dig holes 30-50 cm deep. It is necessary to remove the vegetation layer of soil under the blocks and fill it with rubble or sand, which I did. Thus, it maximized the stability of the foundation.

All blocks must be installed in one strictly horizontal plane. I did this with the help of a level, the amount of rubble I adjusted the height. He poured the crushed stone in layers, tamped each layer.

At this, my first stage of construction was completed and the foundation remained to winter.

Bottom rail and frame

Waiting for the warm days to arrive, I continued building the barn. For this I ordered a board of 3.5 m3. For the frame, I took a board 100x50 mm (1.5 m3), for sheathing 150x25 mm (2m3).

The lower strapping was made of a 100x50 mm board, laying it on the edge along the foundation posts.

I fastened the boards together using universal screws 100x6 mm (although I tried drywall screws, they are too fragile and often break). You can also use nails.

Having laid the boards around the perimeter and fastened them, I immediately checked the diagonals. This should be done periodically so as not to build a curved building.

The lower strapping beams must be opened with an antiseptic. It is better to use an antiseptic for difficult working conditions. I used NEOMID concentrate. I opened the beams with an ordinary paint brush, but you can use a spray gun, it will be faster.

I put floorboards (150x25 mm) on top of the beams and treated them with an antiseptic. I laid the boards tightly, but since they were freshly sawn, over time, gaps of about 1 cm formed between them. This is not critical for me, although mice climb through the cracks into the shed. You can additionally put plywood sheets on the floor, which will be more practical and aesthetically pleasing.

So the base is ready for the walls.

The frame of the walls was first assembled on the floor, then raised, leveled and fixed to the base beams. As for the assembly, then this work you can easily do it yourself, but it will be difficult to lift and fix the wall yourself, because the structure is quite heavy (due to wet wood) every now and then it tries to fall. For these purposes, you need an assistant.

To speed up the process of building a barn with my own hands, I used a chainsaw to cut boards and a screwdriver to tighten screws. You can use a jigsaw if the site already has electricity.

I recommend using as many electrical, mechanical and gasoline tools and mechanisms to speed up and facilitate work. Only then will the whole process be enjoyable.

When assembling the frame of the walls, I made one mistake - I did not install the braces (inclined boards in the corners of the shed). Then it was rather difficult to mount them. The braces add spatial rigidity to the entire structure and are vital, so do not forget to install them.

I took the distance between the frame posts 70-80 cm, since I do not plan to insulate it in the future. If the shed will be insulated, then the step of the racks must correspond to the width of the insulation, which is 490 or 590 mm.

In the frame, door and window openings must be foreseen in advance and horizontal lintels must be installed.

After the wall frame is assembled, the roof rafters can be installed. These are the same boards 100x50 mm with a step of about 700 mm. I fastened the rafters with metal corners on one side and nails on the other. Let me remind you that if you plan to insulate, then the step must be taken in accordance with the width of the insulation.

Wall decoration

I did the wall decoration with a 150x25 mm board, which I fastened with nails (60-70 mm) to the frame posts. In this case, you need to try not to sew up the openings of windows and doors. Here, everything is very simple to attach the board - nailed it and so on in a circle.

After a while, the board will dry out and gaps will form. I covered them with window glazing, as a result of which the shed acquired a nice look.

To protect the board from impact environment and all sorts of insects opened the barn from the outside by working off the oil. Quite cheap, but not safe from a fire point of view, a way to protect a tree. I spent 10 liters of working off.

Roof and roof construction

As for the roof, I thought about many options, but in the end I decided to make it out of roofing material. And this is my next miscalculation, but more on that later.

Along the rafters, I made a continuous crate from a board of 150x25 mm.

He also opened it with an antiseptic, but only from the outside.

For the roofing I bought two rolls of RPP-350 roofing material. I cut it into pieces of 4 meters and laid it along the roof slope with an overlap of 20 cm. The joints were fixed with a 40x20 mm rail.

I hoped that this roof would serve me for several seasons, but I was mistaken, after two weeks the roofing material just broke in several places. The roof had to be redone.

The reason for this was the roofing material of poor quality. From now on I do not recommend making a roofing material from roofing material on paper backing... It is better to use euroruberoid 3-4 mm thick, which will last more than one year.

This time I made an even simpler option - a greenhouse film roofing with ultraviolet protection. And so, by solid crate I laid the backing out of reinforced polyethylene(I bought it when I was planning to make a roof from ondulin).

On top, in a continuous piece, I put a greenhouse film with a density of 150 microns. It was fastened, like roofing material, with a 40x20 mm rail. For six months there were no problems with this roofing, I'll see how it goes next.

Installation of windows and doors

I installed a used wooden door. I changed the front door in the apartment, so she went into the barn. I made the door frame in place from the boards, bought hinges and installed the door.

I made two locks - one for mortise and the other for hinged ones for greater reliability.

I originally planned to install a large wooden window in a barn 1200x600 mm, but in a construction supermarket I bought inexpensive metal-plastic window the size of 800x600 mm, of course, and installed it. To do this, I had to slightly reduce the window opening.

The window was fastened with universal screws 100x6 mm. Pre-removed the double-glazed window and drilled 2 holes on the side in the frame. I installed the window frame in the opening and fixed it at the level with self-tapping screws. I put back a double-glazed window.

Outside, I decorated the opening with a casing and installed a galvanized ebb. Inside made wooden window sill and filled the cracks with a sealant.

Price and terms

I managed to build a barn with my own hands for about $ 1000, and about a month in time (2-3 hours a day).

Planks turned out to be the most expensive and basic material. I also had to buy some tools.

I present to your attention a photo report on the construction of a barn 3 by 5 meters made of wood.

The foundation for the barn is columnar. To begin with, I dug holes about 800 mm deep (10 pieces in total). Then he took roofing material, twisted it with a wire into a pipe (fasten it as securely as possible).

It turned out like this:

Fill in concrete foundation:

The whole day was spent on preparing the foundation. By the end of the day, we got the following picture:

The diameter of the posts is 190 mm.

After the foundation solidified, he began to make the lower strapping of the barn:

The lower harness was treated with an antiseptic.

By the way, a beam of 100 × 50 mm was used for the frame. Putting together the rest of the frame:

It's time to get to the roof.

The roof will be hip. Here is an explanatory picture to make it clearer:

Photos in the process of collecting rafter system:

A closer photo:

The roof is almost ready:

Made the roof lathing:

Corrubit was chosen as the roof covering.

I laid the roof, began to sheathe the barn with a block-house under a timber:

I installed windows and doors, and it turned out to be such a pretty shed:

The construction took about two weeks.

I also think to sheathe the bottom of the barn with something like flat slate to close concrete pillars... Well, steps can be added.

The barn frame is built on the foundation that we prepared in the last stage. We will be using beams and planks for the frame.

Bottom frame

The bottom of the shed box is the bottom tape. Typically 100 x 100 mm or 150 x 150 mm are used for the bottom chord, depending on the size of the stall.

You can simply place the strap for the lower strap next to each other:

But in this case, you have to level the level using the panels (see photo above).

This is a cumbersome and imprecise solution. It is best to cut the wood in half and set it carefully as follows:

Secure the board with a nail (preferably galvanized) or self-tapping screw.

Here are some larger shots to get you started:

Another option for the lower belt is the attachment. The connection in this case is done using corners:

Be sure to treat the bottom straps (or better, the entire tree) with an antiseptic.

Thus, the wood will be protected from decay, insects and fire.

Main barn frame

The uprights are attached to the lower chord. It can be a smaller beam (eg 50x50mm) or a plate (eg 100x50mm). The easiest way to attach vertical stands to the bottom tape at metal corners:

To strengthen the structure (so that the barn is not caught, but stands firmly), trusses (jeeps) are used - these are plates that are diagonally attached to the frame:

The “hardness” of the frame also depends on the size of the stall.

For small size there are literally four racks and several entrances:

How more quantity more stands:

The main thing to remember is that in this case there is no single option.

We're building a sunroof

Everyone does what they like, so design your frame in a way that's consistent and reliable. And how much it will cost, etc. It doesn't matter.

All connections in the frame should be installed at the metal corners with screws - this is the best option.

Find out how you can place the roof in the vault with your hands.

The 3 × 6 barn is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on the construction of a cave from 3 to 6 meters, now I decided to add another one. This time it flew off the roof.

For starters, the foundation. Since the site is located on the coast of the Volga-Mati (upper area, and below - river sand), he decided to apply a concrete base. Copied caves 600x600x600 mm in the amount of eight pieces.

Warehouse with our own hands - we build a cheap and reliable structure

I mixed the concrete and poured it into the prepared pit. In the concrete, the reinforcement was installed (vertically upward) to allow installation in the warehouse.

The platform was made of brick - brick, the next day he measured the level and added where he needed cement mortar so it was smooth.

After drying, he began to assemble the lower frame of the barn.

For this purpose, a 50x200x6000 mm plate was used.

The vertical frames of the frame are made of a 50 × 100 mm panel. Here is a photo of the final barn frame:

As for the roof: in 8 for 3 there were 8 rafters.

I took machines 50x150x5000 mm. The slings are made, nailed to the frame. You can fix the metal corners as well, but it seemed more convenient. Here is the rafter attachment diagram:

But the picture of the rafts is closer:

No rings were made since the galvanized roof is 2500 mm.

The roof had 2 zinc plates with a little overlap.

Coverage of the suction surface from the edge 25 × 150 mm. The overlay is about 2.5 cm thick. Secure with 90 mm galvanized nails. The erased board immediately resolved in front of the skin. It seemed that it was easier. And when the board is on, you will not see non-existent areas.

In front of the bastard, he first tried the door and then started translating the tape.

If anyone is interested in the Lazur color, the V33 impregnation.

They bought it from Leroy, and fifteen liters were left in the barn. I used 2 layers. The color seems to be bad.

And here are the last photos of the barn 6 by 3 meters:

The location of the stable is about a week. The winter villa was ok, no problem.

The first step is to prepare the foundation. The easiest way is to make a columnar foundation of bricks, as we wrote earlier. During the construction of this shed, a concrete foundation was prepared.

Features of the construction in the country of a shed with a pitched roof measuring 3x6 m

For the foundation, skavazhins with a depth of 800 mm and a diameter of 200 mm were made. For the formwork, a twisted roofing felt was used, which protruded 500 mm above the ground level. Reinforcement was welded from three rods. The last stage of the foundation is concreting. Use a water level to keep the foundation level. And here is the finished foundation:

Barn frame

For the frame, a beam of 100x100 mm was taken.

In order for the frame to be reliable and not wobble, a truss is needed. The farm (from Lat. Firmus - durable) allows you to save geometric shapes barn. As a truss, a board of 100 × 50 mm was used (in the photo, the boards are dark in color - this is the truss).

Shed roof 6 × 3m

The next stage is the shed roof lathing. I used unedged board 100x25 mm. Corrugated sheets were chosen as the coating.

Sheets of 2500 mm were purchased. Since we do not need such a length, the sheets were cut by 2000 mm. The remnants of the trimmed sheets were subsequently used to close the foundation of the shed (see last photo).

For the ridge and ebb, cut straight sheets of iron were used and bent as needed.

The sheets are fastened with an overlap (15-20 centimeters) on self-tapping screws.

The last steps

The outer edges of the timber and the lower strapping of the shed were impregnated with working off to protect the wood from decay. The frame of the shed was upholstered with a 150x25 board with a slight overlap (about 20mm).

The next step is painting. A nut-colored impregnation was used.

The first layer was applied with a brush, then two more layers with a spray gun. What happened, you can see for yourself:

A 40x100 board was laid on the floor of the shed. The bottom of the shed, as I wrote above, was sealed with the remnants of the corrugation.

A door was made from the remains of a 100x25 board.

I installed the door, painted and put in the windows. Here's what happened in the end:

It remains to finish the steps and you're done! He worked alone and only on weekends. There was no construction experience. As a result, it took two and a half months to build a 6 × 3 barn on our own.

Looking back, I'll tell you what went wrong:

It is better to take ondulin on the roof - it would be much easier than fiddling with corrugated sheets;
The roof is also easier to make a pitched roof. Although the gable looks prettier;
I decided not to buy the ebb, but made it myself. Due to inexperience, the ebb came out high, it was possible to reduce them by another 5 centimeters.

Estimate for the construction of a barn 6 × 3

To have an idea of how much it will cost to build a barn with your own hands, I knocked out the following estimate:

Cement - 1500 rubles;
Roofing material - 530 rubles (2 rolls);
Nails - 1500 rubles;
Beam 100x100x6000 mm - 6750 rubles (18 pieces);
Beam 100x50x6000 mm - 2200 rubles (12 pieces);
Rough board 25x100x6000 mm - 2860 rubles (45 pieces);
Board 25x150x6000 mm - 12,500 rubles (90 pieces);
Board 40x100x6000 mm - 5000 rubles (33 pieces);
Corrugated sheets 2500mm - 7000 rubles (14 pieces);
Iron sheets 2500mm - 3000 rubles (6 pieces);
Nut impregnation - 2800 rubles;
White paint - 700 rubles;
Door lock - 220 rubles;
Door hinges - 180 rubles.

TOTAL: 46,740 rubles.

I didn't count the windows, since I already had them. If you add, for example, PVC windows, the shed will turn out to be under fifty thousand.

Read another report on the construction of a 6 × 3 m barn.

In order not to litter the summer cottage or the premises of the house garden tools, you can build a frame shed with your own hands. It will become a convenient place for storing various household equipment. It is not very difficult to build such a building, the main thing is to follow the technology.

Building a barn begins with determining a location. The shed should not be conspicuous, it is better to place it in the backyard. The approach to this structure must be made as free as possible in order to bring in or take out large-sized objects and materials: irrigation containers, gasoline-powered tools, etc.

Width front door calculated based on the size of the garden wheelbarrow, which may have to be rolled into the building. It is better to build a barn on a small hill, this will protect the building from melt water that can wash away the foundation and destroy the entire structure.

Barn on a small hill

You can build an auxiliary structure from any lumber: boards, beams or OSB boards. The foundation is used of any type - columnar, tape, monolithic or prefabricated.

The shed can be of various shapes - square or rectangular, with a pitched roof or ridge type. There are also no special problems with roofing, a profiled sheet, ordinary slate or roofing felt will do if finances are limited. Color will help revive the structure roofing material... Now on sale you can find both professional sheet and slate different colors and shades.

First, you need to draw up a plan or construction scheme, which will help you more accurately calculate the amount of material required. A properly drawn up building plan will take into account all the nuances of construction, so that during the work you do not have to buy materials. When purchasing timber and boards, pay attention to their moisture content, which should not be more than 22%. Also, on the wood there can be no large knots, blue, traces of the work of a woodworm beetle.

To make a frame shed, you will need a device of the following structures:

Bottom and top strapping. To do this, you need a bar with a section of 100 by 100 mm. Six pieces of 6-meter and eight bars of 3 m each.
The flooring is made from boards with a section of 40x150 mm, at least 20 pieces are required, if necessary, you can add. For a fine finish, it is best to use OSB boards s.
Vertical supports - here you will need a beam with a section of 100x100 mm, in the amount of 11 pieces, 2.5 meters long each, two of them for the doorway.

Vertical supports of a frame shed

One of two possible methods is used to create a draft. If vertical posts the frames are made of the same length, then on one side of the perimeter of the building they are built up with bars with a section of 50x50 mm, which will require 4 pieces. According to another technique, when installing vertical racks on one side of the building, either higher beams should be installed or slightly shorter than the rest. When using any option, the roof slope will be ensured.

For the manufacture of rafters, you will need a board with a section of 50x100 mm in the amount of 4 pieces, each 4 meters long, taking into account the roof overhangs. The lathing is made from a board with a section of 22x100mm, which will require approximately half a cube. The draft ceiling is made of plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or OSB boards. The wind board is made of edged timber with a section of 25x100 mm. It will be enough 6 boards of 3 meters.

Boards with a section of 50x100 mm

The type of fastening depends on the thickness of the timber: a connection in a paw (in half a tree) can be fixed with nails. Joint-to-joint connection is made with steel corners and strips. Also, the work will require self-tapping screws, screws, L-shaped metal plates for attaching the timber to the corners. The main fastening element will be nails of various sizes. They are selected of such length that, when driven into two connected boards with outside, the tip should protrude 1.5–2 cm from the back side. Such a connection will be more reliable.

Everything wooden elements buildings are treated with an antiseptic, which prolongs their service life. Best applied protective compound in two layers.

You can't build a shed without a good foundation. The strip foundation will reliably protect the structure from moisture and give it strength. In this case, the floor of the shed will rise 40-50 cm relative to the ground level.

First, the foundation is marked on the ground, which will require pegs and a strong thin cord. Then a ditch is prepared with a depth of 40-50 cm and a width of about 30 cm. sand pillow(it needs to be moistened and tamped a little), and polyethylene is placed on top so that the cement milk is not absorbed into the sand, while reducing the strength of the concrete.

Marking the foundation of the barn on the ground

After that, a formwork is installed along the edge of the trench, with a height in accordance with the size of the basement. In the upper part of the formwork, spacers are installed between its walls so that the boards do not disperse under the weight of the concrete. Further along the entire trench they lay reinforcement cage where the rods are tied together with steel wire.

For pouring, cement grade 200 or 250, crushed stone or pebbles, sand and water are used. Experts recommend pouring the foundation without long interruptions in work, so that air voids do not form. It is better not to start work during rain, as the concrete mixture will become liquid. Such concrete will dry much longer, and its strength may decrease. After 3-4 weeks, you can begin work on the construction of a frame shed.

The basement part is set up when the concrete poured into the formwork gains the necessary strength, after which the formwork is dismantled. First, roofing material is spread on the concrete, which will play the role of waterproofing. Several rows of red bricks are laid along it. Do not forget to bandage the seams in the brickwork. In the top row along the entire perimeter of the building in brickwork are laid wooden blocks every one and a half meters, on which the lower trim bar will subsequently be attached.

Pouring the foundation of the barn

When installing a basement, it is necessary to use a building level, observing the horizontality of the masonry. If the horizontality of the basement part is violated, the frame of the shed will skew and build reliable design will not work. After laying out the basement level and cleaning all the seams from the influx of mortar, leave the structure for a couple of days to harden. After that, you can start assembling the frame elements.

First, roofing material is again laid on top of the base to protect the timber from moisture. It is better to put two layers of roofing material and only then proceed with the installation of the lower strapping.

A bar with a section of 100x100 is used for this. The joints at the corners must be made in the "paw". At each end of the timber, a notch is made in half its thickness. The length of the cutout according to the cross-section of the timber will be 100 mm. Thus, when connecting, you get an even corner. If necessary, the junction of the two beams can be earned with a chisel. The strapping bar is attached to the mortgages wooden parts in the plinth with nails. Be sure to drive them obliquely and check the horizontal laying of the timber.

The next stage in building a barn is flooring. Here you need boards with a cross-section of 50x100 mm, which will serve as logs. They are placed on the edge, resting on the beam of the lower harness, with a step of 60 cm.All are fastened with nails suitable size... To make further work more convenient to carry out, you can assemble a rough floor from plywood or any old boards. After they, if necessary, can be dismantled or stuffed on top of another material. When the base is ready and you can move on it without the risk of falling, they begin to install the vertical elements of the shed frame.

The device of the floor of the frame shed

For vertical racks, you also need a beam, the section of which will correspond to the dimensions of 100x100 mm. It is attached to the side of the lower harness, using L-shaped metal fasteners or with 150 mm nails, using an oblique face. The distance between the installed racks is at least 1.5 meters. For reliability, they are fixed diagonally with temporarily installed boards with a section of 40x100 mm.

Intermediate vertical posts are additionally secured with jibs so that their verticality is not disturbed. After the upper harness is installed, they can be removed.

Arrangement of vertical posts for mounting door frame depends on where it will be located and on its type. If a single-leaf door is selected, there are two ways to attach the supports:

You can save a little on material by installing one rack. The second will serve as a corner vertical bar.
If the entrance is in the middle, then two additional racks are installed.

Installation of the frame shed door frame

After measuring, the upper bar is nailed along the height of the opening so that it is at the level of the upper part of the window blocks, for which the seat is prepared in the same way.

To install a pitched roof, one side of the shed must be increased to a slope not exceeding 25 °. Then the rafters are installed. The material is boards with a section of 50x100 mm, with their installation on the edge. In a structure with a pitched roof, it is carried out with iron staples or nails, which are hammered in according to the "slanting face" method.

Installation of a shed roof of a frame shed

Then the crate is mounted. It can be sparse or solid, it all depends on the type of selected roofing material. For waterproofing, roofing material or other modern membrane materials are laid, and after that the roofing material is already installed.

The frame is sheathed with any material, but usually a profiled sheet or planed board is used. You can also use the clapboard, but this option will be a little more expensive.

This is a new development in the field of construction for the rapid construction of utility units and auxiliary premises in summer cottages. All parts are packed in compact boxes, they can be quickly and conveniently delivered to the site.

The advantages of ready-made frame structures:

You can build a barn in a short time
Serviceability. The building does not need maintenance.
You do not need to do such work as treating purchased lumber with an antiseptic solution or renewing the appearance of the barn with paint every year. All one has to do with such a new design is to periodically wash it with a water hose.
For assembly, it is not necessary to prepare a foundation, a tamped base is suitable, where sand and gravel mixture or crushed stone can be used.

Finished frame structure barn made of plastic

In general, the construction of a frame utility block is a simple procedure. It is important to calculate everything in advance and remember that, according to the existing law, it can be erected in a place that is at a distance of at least 3 meters from the neighboring site and 5 meters from the extreme line of the road. Everything else is at your discretion.

Barn 3 x 4 m with metal frame - actual price, complete set of utility block finishing materials... Delivery and installation.

A frame shed made using LSTK technology is a reliable and modern solution for home and summer cottages.

The frame of the utility block is made of galvanized steel U-shaped profiles, which are connected together and create a base. On such a frame, you can mount any roofing and facade materials from our range.

Prices and configuration

The complete set of the 3x4 utility block consists of basic elements and additional materials... Basic elements are a ready-made structure, which includes a frame, walls, roof, door.

If you want to make the shed look like a house, you can change the corrugated board to siding, and put a flexible bituminous roof or metal roofing on the roof. You can also add a drain, window, ventilation, etc.

Some built utility blocks

Download prices:

Photo sheds and utility blocks

The construction of a frame utility block on a personal plot is a sequence of finishing when insulating walls.

frame and vapor barrier

In the photo you can see the finished frame sheds and utility blocks under construction - the stages of insulating the shed, laying the film and ready-made options with basement and vinyl siding.

Choosing a modern barn using LSTK technology, you forget about the annual cleaning, painting and other things. Our utility block will delight you with its appearance and functionality.

Advantages of LSTK barn:

strong frame
a light weight
quick installation
large selection of materials
no dirty work
no heavy equipment needed.

The first building that appears on the new summer cottage- this is, of course, a shed, large and roomy. The first time, until the bare territory of the dacha "overgrows" with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will for a long time remain the only refuge for inventory, building materials and country property.

Depending on the plans for the future development of the suburban area, the availability of free time and money, there are several ways to solve the problem of the utility room in the suburban area:

Hire a team and build a capital shed made of bricks or foam blocks, with a pitched roof and a basement;
Pour a concrete foundation with your own hands for a future building, buy a five-ton railway container and install it in a summer cottage instead of a shed;
Build an ordinary shed with a shed roof, 3x6 in size from a bar and a board, as in the photo.

Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will not hesitate to cast their votes in favor of the latter option, this is the most balanced and deliberate decision.

Advice! Immediately we do not suck correctly from the point of view of planning to build a shed from foam blocks on a "clean" site, often household buildings of this type have to be demolished or moved in favor of a summer cottage or garage.

In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude more capital investments and time than is necessary for wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that at considerable costs, tangible advantages over a single-pitched wooden shed 3x6 in size do not work.

Optimal design of a wooden shed 3x6

Most complex element homemade barn is its roof. Choose a pitched roof for your barn, you can't go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen they prefer to put single-pitched roofs on sheds, they are not so beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, the shed roof of a barn with your own hands can be made step by step even with minimal construction experience.

The only prerequisite is the correct orientation of the shed roof and the entire shed structure relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the upper overhang and roof gables:

The design of the shed, with dimensions of 3x6 m, with a pitched roof, is shown in the drawing;
The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 supports. A standard cinder block is used as the material for the pillars, but it is better to cast concrete supports in the formwork;
The basis of the lean-to shed is a frame made of planks and beams, the dimensions of the structure are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the highest point of the rafters of 2.7 m;
A pitched roof is made according to classic pattern, on hanging rafters with stuffed sheathing boards and a flat roof. As a roofing covering, you can use corrugated board, ondulin, or make a two-layer version of roll material, for example, roofing material.

The construction will turn out to be very simple and easy, if you assemble the foundation correctly, then a wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand a wind of 18-25 m / s. If there are no strong winds in the area in which the shed is planned to be installed, then during the construction of walls you can limit yourself to vertical drains from a board and a bar, as in the drawing. For open area it is recommended to strengthen vertical bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.

The same goes for the construction of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a pitched roof without using the ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper wall trim and the Mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports from the timber. For windy terrain, the pitched roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle of the rafters.

We build a shed with a pitched roof with our own hands

For the frame, material with a section of 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 -19 pcs.;
For the floor, a board measuring 25x100 mm - 27 pcs.;
For the lathing and roof supports, 43 boards with a section of 25x100 mm are required.

All joints and connections are made with carpentry black self-tapping screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and building corners, but such savings are not always justified.

Making a foundation for a barn 3x6

After choosing the site for the construction of the shed, it will be necessary to plan and remove the soil on a site of at least 3x6 m. It makes no sense to make a larger building spot. In order not to be bothered by vegetation, the cleaned area can be covered with salt and sand.

After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars, we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and sized for a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits, pour a 5 cm layer of a mixture of crushed stone and sand, after which we lay out the columnar supports from the cinder block on a masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.

Before laying out, you will need to pull the horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support, so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.

After a day, you can install a strapping bar. All corner joints and T-shaped cuts are made with sawing off the ends of the "half-wood", each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the timber at different angles.

We collect the frame and the pitched roof

In the next step, you will need to install supporting vertical racks, they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.

We make the central bearing racks from a 50x100 board, for the back wall you will need to cut three racks of 220 mm each, for the front wall - four racks of 250 mm each. We pre-fix each support on the lower strapping with one self-tapping screw, then building level we set the exact horizontal position and additionally fasten with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.

After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and we strap the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. To give the entire structure of the shed additional rigidity, it is necessary to sew up the floor with a tongue-and-groove board before assembling the elements of the pitched roof.

Further all installed elements, floorboards, rafters, lathing material, side posts, lower and upper strapping must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time that the rafters and the roof of the pitched roof are being assembled, the procedure must be repeated twice.

For the upper overhang of a pitched roof, installation of rafters and lathing, you will need to fix an additional horizontal Mauerlat beam, as in the diagram.

The sawing down of the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markings or according to the prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards, they will fix the rafter from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the pitched roof.

Roofing and finishing works

At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of the pitched roof with a sheathing board. If for the roof of the shed will be used bituminous materials- flexible shingles and roofing felt, on the boards will need to be laid additionally OSB sheets or to hammer in the crate with a solid wooden clapboard.

The easiest way is to cover a pitched roof with corrugated board. The metal surface will withstand any cataclysms that may arise at the summer cottage, and it is much easier and faster to lay and fix the roofing material than euro slate or roofing material. As a waterproofing, it is laid polyethylene film, the edges of which will be released from under the awnings and nailed to the upper edge wooden walls barn.

Laying the roof on a pitched roof begins from the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined with the previous one in a row in an overlap by two waves, by bottom sheet make an overlap of 15-20 cm. Places of overlap, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.

On the sides roofing cake wind bars are nailed to protect the shed roof from water infiltration and gusts of wind. We nail a similar rail for the gutter device under the lower overhang. The upper overhang of the pitched roof is protected by a screen of two wooden planks.

The assembled frame of the shed, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, therefore, clapboard, ordinary edged board or OSB sheet panels can be used as material for wall covering. To stuff the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. Joints and gaps between OSB plates and edged board need to blow out polyurethane foam, cut off the excess polyurethane foam and be sure to paint over with weather-resistant paint.

Conclusion

The selected version of a shed with a pitched roof, 3x6 m in size, can stand up to 15 years without repair, subject to a competent choice of protective paints and varnishes... This design has one indisputable advantage - a shed made of timber with a pitched roof can be relatively easy to disassemble and move to a new place after a summer cottage or a new shed made of foam blocks is built.

At the dacha, you can't do without a shed in any way. Here, materials are stored and working tools, and some settle in it for a while while the house is being built. The 3x6 format is the most popular. Most often it is made with a pitched roof. Ordering a project of an outbuilding is a very expensive pleasure, it is better to make the drawings yourself. And from our article with photos and videos, you will learn how to build this building with your own hands.

Choosing a place for a construction site

Since the barn is an auxiliary building, special architectural delights are not needed here, but also in overall design area, it should not stand out. Optimal options 2:

adjoin close to the house;
take out to the edge of the site.

Place your barn in a convenient location

When choosing the location of the building, one should proceed from the following considerations:

Soil on construction site should be the least suitable for the layout of the beds. Perhaps there is a place where nothing grows because of a strong shadow or with such a relief that it is impossible to place anything else but a shed there.
There should be a convenient access to the utility room.
The shed should be located at such a distance from the work site that it was not far away to carry heavy tools and equipment used on the site.

There are a lot of building options, let's consider some not very complicated ones.

Attention! When building a utility block, the presence of drawings or at least sketches made by hand is a prerequisite. Without this, it will be difficult for you to correctly determine the place for the construction of the future barn, you will not be able to calculate how much material you need to purchase.

Frame shed from OSB boards

Having cleared and leveled the platform at the hydraulic level, they begin to build the foundation. The easiest way is to lay along the perimeter foundation blocks... You can make a columnar foundation by digging holes under it and arranging a pillow on their bottom, install it vertically ready-made blocks... The second option is to independently complete the base by pouring concrete mix... Further:

collect the bottom harness;
treat with an antiseptic;
cover the floor with boards protected from decay;
install the first frame post, fix it with a metal corner, attach a temporary spacer for rigidity;
attach an OSB sheet to the rack and base;
install the second rack, fasten to the previously installed sheet;

Shed from OSB

remove the spacer and repeat everything;
assemble the upper harness from the bar right on the site;
install the structure on the racks and fix it;
collect the truss structure;
attach the crate;
cover the shed with corrugated board or other material.

All that remains is to paint the building, to make the steps.

Advice. It is better to fasten the sheets to the bottom of the frame, retreating 5 cm. For this, a bar is attached to the lower strapping, the height of which is 50 mm. The sheet is supported on it, it is fixed, and the control block is transferred further.

Shed 3x6 with a pitched roof from what was found

It is not difficult to build an outbuilding with a pitched roof, it is inexpensive, especially if you use the available remnants of building materials, it looks interesting. To erect such a building with your own hands, you only need to have minimal experience in carpentry.

Before starting construction, we will collect the tool and material in one place. You can do everything manually, but if you have a screwdriver, an electric planer and a jigsaw, a grinder, a drill, construction will end faster than 2 times. From the material you need to have:

Simple barn scheme

A beam of 15x10 cm. A frame is constructed from it.
Boards 5x15 cm, 4x15 cm edged for slings and sheathing, respectively.
Unedged boards. Of them, they carry out the crate.
Roofing material.
Waterproofing.
Ingredients for preparing concrete mass.
Self-tapping screws, nails.
Roofing material.

Shed of these lightweight materials, but a foundation is also needed for it. The most rational decision- columns laid to a depth of 0.4-0.5 m.After thinking over all the nuances, they begin to work:

mark the contour of the future structure using a tape measure;
drive in pegs in the corners and pull the rope;
outline the places where the installation of the pillars is planned;
drill holes;
formwork is made from above, protruding by 0.2-0.3 m;
arrange a cushion of gravel and sand, insert reinforcing bars;
fill;
let stand for 4 days;

Building a barn

wood is treated with an antiseptic composition;
remove the formwork from the pillars;
cover the head with a double folded roofing material;
a frame is assembled from a bar, tightened with staples;
install racks, checking the verticality with a level;
strengthen the vertical beams with temporary slopes, while the front wall racks should be higher to ensure the roof slope on average 17 degrees;
mount logs with a distance of 0.6-1.2 m and perform flooring;
the overlap is placed on the vertical supports, securing the beams with brackets.

Important! The optimal distance between the elements of the columnar foundation is 120-150 cm. Their number depends on the dimensions of the shed.

When the frame is assembled, they begin to build the roof:

Advice. The step between the elements of the rafter system is from 0.6 to 0.8 m. This means that for a building of 3x6 m you need to stock up on eight rafter legs.

If you plan to make a roof of galvanized iron, you can do without the lathing. 2 sheets are enough for a 3x6 shed, but they need to be laid with an overlap.
When sheathing a barn with an edged board, an overlap of about 25 mm should be made. So that after the wood dries up, unpainted areas do not appear, better painting perform before sheathing.
Paint consumption, if applied in 2 layers, is about 15 liters with a barn dimensions of 3x6 m.
On average, it takes 7 days to build this type of barn.
The device for a single-slope design requires 30% less funds than for a 2-slope design.
If one wind direction prevails at your dacha, then the version with a pitched roof suits you more than others.

Building a simple shed with your own hands is a feasible task. The main thing is not to forget to retreat from the neighboring fence of the legal 3 m and from the road 5 m, and there are no other restrictions.

Shed with a pitched roof: video

Building a barn: photo

A rare summer cottage does without a small outbuilding. Sometimes, during construction, a place for storing tools and equipment is allocated directly to country house, but as they accumulate, sooner or later the question arises about the need to build a separate barn in the country for these purposes.

Moreover, if you have a desire to have chickens or other animals.

Appointment of the country shed

First of all, you need to decide for what purposes the premises will be used. Not only the dimensions of the future structure depend on this, but also the type of foundation, floor covering and wall material, their height. Even the shape and insulation of the roof can be determined by the purpose of your farm building.

If the shed will be used as a regular storage for shovels, rakes and similar utensils, like a garage for a pair of bicycles and a garden cart, then it does not need warm high walls, as well as a ventilation and sewage system.

Even the windows in such a structure can be superfluous if you do not plan to arrange a small workshop in it. And if you are planning, then at least one in working area needed, and better openable.

In this case, it will not be superfluous to add a small open terrace, so that some of the work can be done outdoors, but under a canopy that protects from rain and sun.

If you want to use this room, or part of it, for keeping pets, you need to create a minimum the necessary conditions accommodation:

for chickens - an attached enclosure for walking, perches and nests;
for goats - a warm floor, a feeding place, a system for removing the liquid fraction of waste products and minimal ventilation;
for pigs - the same set of "amenities" as for goats, but of a completely different quality and made of different materials.

If the dacha is located near a reservoir, then sometimes its owners give birth to ducks and geese. Often summer residents are engaged in breeding rabbits and nutria. And the silkworm and the fredki remain in stock.

Construction of a barn in the country 3 x 6 with a pitched roof, drawings

Most often, in summer cottages, they build just such sheds with dimensions of 3 x 6 (or close to these dimensions) with a pitched roof. And the most acceptable technology for such a construction is frame.

You can take finished drawing, and, having adjusted the size to suit your needs, start construction.

Or you can draw a simple sketch yourself, which will make it possible to calculate the materials and landing dimensions required for the construction.

Such a shed can be installed on a simple base of wall blocks (except for gas silicate and foam blocks that actively absorb moisture) installed above small pits with a sand and gravel mixture. Of course, they must be level and covered with a layer of roofing material on top.

The sketch shows a standard block size of 200 x 300 x 400, but you can use others, or even install your barn on a solid drainage cushion covered with a layer of roofing material.

Wall cladding from the inside can be made with OSB sheets.

And the outer finish is the same OSB with two-layer paint or vinyl siding, fixed on the racks. The use of wood has always been popular, both in outdoor and in interior decoration summer cottages... The barn is no exception.

Roof covering - any, even the same roofing material. In the latter case, it is important to remember that its approximate service life is 8 years, and after that, it is better to replace such a coating without waiting for its complete failure.

If you do not plan to heat this room, you can save on insulation. And if the room is planned to be warm, then lay it between the racks, observing the installation technology. Technologies frame construction detailed here.

Do-it-yourself pallet shed

An interesting experience of building similar structures from pallets, using a minimum amount of additional materials. To build a shed from pallets is within the power of every person who has a minimum set of carpentry tools and knows how to use it.

It is convenient to fasten pallets together by passing beams of a suitable size through them.

In the same way, flooring and even a roof can be assembled, in which such connecting beams will act as rafters.

The choice of materials for covering floors, walls and ceilings is varied, but plywood or OSB are most often used.

An example of the construction of such a structure is shown in the video:

Sheds for chickens and goats - construction features, photo

It is better to make such structures at least minimally insulated, taking into account the peculiarities of their maintenance, and ventilated, taking into account your sense of smell.

Do chicken shed with your own hands, as shown in the photo above, it is not difficult, but in addition to the above, you need to take into account several additional points:

it should be installed either on a closed strip foundation or on poles, which will make it difficult for animals stealing chickens or eggs to enter the hen house;
roost in it should be done, observing the necessary technological distances,

it is advisable to choose the poles of a round shape with a diameter of 35 - 40 mm, taking into account the physiology of the inhabitants,

Other possible options:

the number of nests arranged in the hen house is calculated at the rate of 1 in 3 - 5 chickens;

the size of the range for chickens is calculated based on the norm of 0.4 sq.m. per individual;

it is better to make the floor in the hen house concrete because of the chemical aggressiveness of the droppings and cover it abundantly with sawdust, etc.

Goat shed requires slightly different approaches. Therefore, when concreting the floor with a device for slopes to drain the liquid into the receiving container, it must be done in the stall solid wood flooring so that the goat can lie down on the warm floor so that its cloven hoof does not get stuck between the boards.

It is possible to arrange two-tier open stalls when keeping several goats.

A feed creche is best done at the height of the goat, with sparse twigs on the front wall. A goat, eating 2 times more varied types of grasses than a cow, loves to choose.

For the kids, either separate nurseries are arranged, or another tier is attached to the existing ones lower.

The scheme for removing the liquid fraction of waste products from the goat shed can be as follows:

It is preferable to make a shed for keeping goats with an attic, with a large opening in the ceiling in the area of goat stalls and a door overlooking one of the gables. It is very convenient to store hay for animals in the attic in winter, it also serves as an additional insulation. A warm shed for goats is necessary, but it is not necessary to heat it - the heat that is produced by their body will be enough, yes chemical reactions occurring in manure and litter, which should be in sufficient quantity. And the goat constantly replenishes it, sorting out the food.

If you keep 1 - 2 goats in large room- the heat of their bodies will not be enough for a comfortable stay and it may need to be warmed up in severe frosts.

A very productive way of keeping goats and chickens together. The chicken coop can be placed over the goat stalls, fencing it off on the sides with a net or frequent crate. They will warm each other up in winter.

Only the flooring in the hen house should be made continuous and provide for an easy way to periodically clean it. Several times a year, it will be necessary to clean the goat stalls, disposing of manure in a compost pit and then using it on the site as fertilizer.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you 😉

Hard to imagine Vacation home or a cottage without outbuildings. Gardening tools, summer swings, hammocks and folding furniture are kept in sheds; here you can also settle farm animals, poultry, store hay and feed. As a rule, outbuildings are built from those materials that remained after the construction of the house. The owner can only choose the drawing of the barn, decide on its size and roof design.

Barn design

Most optimal size for outbuildings - 3x6 meters. This area is enough even for the construction summer shower and a toilet inside the building, and you can also arrange a summer kitchen here.

You can make a drawing of a barn from a photo found on the Internet, or come up with your own original barn, and then transfer the idea to paper. It is not recommended to build even the most simple buildings without drawing. After all, all sizes and inconsistencies will become visible on paper.

Shed roofs are most often made pitched. Flat roof retains too much precipitation, snow masses, requires careful waterproofing. Roofs complex shape are also inappropriate for sheds, because this building is intended not to decorate the site, but to serve for household needs.

The best solution for a barn would be a pitched roof. Unlike a two-slope skate, you will not need to equip a ridge; you will need half the rafters. It is easier to assemble a pitched roof, and precipitation and snow from it come off very quickly, without threatening waterproofing.

Important! The slope of a pitched roof must be greater than 18 degrees. Such a slope will allow precipitation to leave the roof without hindrance, protect the structure from winds and cold.

The optimal value for the pitched roof angle is 18-25 degrees.

The walls of an outbuilding can be erected from absolutely any materials, it can be:

brick;
foam concrete or aerated concrete;
boards;
plywood or MDF fixed on wooden frame(frame type building).

Shed from foam blocks

If you need to buy materials for building a barn, it is better to opt for foam concrete. Porous blocks have many advantages over other building materials:

do not burn;
do not absorb moisture;
are lightweight;
there are several standard sizes, from which it is easy to choose the best option for a small building;
have a higher strength and heat capacity than bricks;
they can pass air no worse than wooden walls;
absolutely safe and non-toxic.

Despite the lightness of the foam blocks, it is imperative to build a foundation for the shed. Considering the size of the building (3x6) and the weight of the structures, it is better to choose a tape-type foundation. For stable, dry soils, a columnar base is also suitable.

Strip foundation for a small outbuilding, it is poured to a depth of about 40-60 cm, while it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing on the site in winter.

The land on the site selected for construction is cleared of debris, roots and vegetation. They mark the perimeter of the barn, dig a trench for the strip foundation.

At the bottom of the trench, a "pillow" of sand, crushed stone and gravel is poured, carefully tamped. Now you need to fix the formwork for the foundation from old boards, plywood or slate. Metal fittings are installed inside the boxes, which should strengthen the foundation.

Concrete is poured. In several places, pierce the solution with a metal pin, ridding the foundation of excess air. Now you need to leave the foundation for several weeks so that the concrete can gain the necessary strength.

When the concrete is dry, you can start building the walls. The lower belt is laid out first.

Attention! Blocks or bricks of the bottom row must be placed on a waterproofing layer. The strip foundation is covered with a layer of roofing material or coated bituminous mastic so that moisture from the concrete does not get on the walls of the shed.

In accordance with the building drawing, the walls are laid out, making window and door openings. The box of the outbuilding of foam blocks is ready.

Barn made of wood

Much more often it turns out that the owner has the remains of wood, and he decides to build a barn from wood. For such work, at least minimal carpentry skills are required, because you will have to work with both a saw and a plane.

A structure made of wood weighs very little; a columnar foundation may well act as its base. To do this, markings are made on the site, transferring the perimeter of the future building to the ground.

Pillars are installed in the corners of the shed. A few more supports should be in the center of the rectangle. The distance between the supports is 80-120 cm (depending on the size of the shed and the type of soil on the site).

The depth of the supports depends on the level of freezing of the soil in the construction region, on average, it is 40-60 cm. After the trenches for the supports are dug or drilled, a wooden formwork is installed in them, a sand and gravel "cushion" is filled up, and metal reinforcement is laid.

Now you need to pour the concrete. After 5-6 days, when the foundation hardens, you can disassemble the formwork and start building the walls.

First, you need to make the bottom harness of the building from a bar. Before laying the wood, the foundation supports are covered with a double layer of roofing material. In the corners, the timber is connected with metal brackets, checked by level.

Install vertical supports at the corners of the shed, be sure to check the level. Fix them with temporary spacers. Taking into account door and window openings, they are collected from wooden beams the whole frame of the barn.

After assembling the frame, proceed to the wall cladding. This can be done with boards, moisture-resistant plywood or other sheet material.

Important! Before building a shed, wood must be treated with antiseptic agents to prevent it from rotting. For protection against fire, fire retardants are used, which also impregnate the bars and boards.

Shed roof installation

Assembling a shed roof of a shed with your own hands, step by step, consists of the following steps:

Advice! Shed roof sheds must be inspected after each winter to identify and eliminate defects, leaks, damp wood.

Photo ready-made sheds will help determine the type of construction and size of the utility room. But most owners of suburban areas and summer cottages choose small outbuildings, with parameters of 3x6 meters. And the roofs are made pitched, this design is easier to implement, cheaper and shows itself well in operation.

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