A small circular with your own hands. How to make a circular machine with your own hands

For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine saves time and saves your work.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular. The cost of small machines starts at 9,000 rubles, more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the seeming complexity of the design, any master with basic locksmith skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process, it is possible to add functions that are not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a sturdy table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety and functionality when using such a device.

In some of these "models" there is a shaft for securing the knives of a planer or jointer. As a rule, a frame is cooked from a corner or channel, an electric motor from the decommissioned factory ventilation is fixed on it, and with the help of a pulley, the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.

Since such a stationary saw can handle small workpieces, the operator's safety must be taken care of. It is desirable to provide for the regulation of the rotation speed and the possibility of easy replacement of discs with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disc, and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the "stop" button is located in an accessible place and is made large.

Don't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, striking a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Consider the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but with certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from a metal corner (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact the warehouse of rolled metal products. It is permissible to make the legs from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.

A good option for a homemade metal roll bed

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastener to loosen.

It is necessary to use electric welding. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the bed (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must be with steel rims and have locks. The higher the mass of the bed, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

What to make a circular saw table?

The working surface is made of steel, duralumin or silumin sheet. It is permissible to use textolite, plexiglass or moisture resistant plywood. Galvanized sheet is stuffed on top of the plywood.

The main condition is that the material should not crack from vibrations., have a smooth surface and not bend under a weight of at least 50 kg. If the tabletop cracks or twists, the circular disk will jam.

Universal homemade table for circular saw and router. I recommend this video to watch

This will result in injury and damage to the workpiece. The use of popular OSB and chipboard materials is undesirable. These materials are not resistant to vibrations and can collapse at the most critical moment.

There are two options for making a working groove for a circular disc:

  1. You can cut a groove.
  2. or place two halves of the countertop at a distance from each other.

Homemade circular saw with your own hands, construction drawings, diagrams and a detailed description.

Description of the structure.

In the considered embodiment, the following adjusting units are provided:

1. The belt is tensioned by four M8 bolts, which press the moving part of the mechanism to the fixed one. An electric motor is fixed on the moving part of the mechanism. It has four M8 threaded holes. In the fixed part, grooves are made for the size of the adjusting bolts. The movable bed slides on the bolts to the right or left. The adjustment is made in the following sequence: release the bolts; we pull the belt with our hands, pressing on the electric motor: we tighten the bolts.

2. The cutting depth is adjusted by rotating the entire saw blade assembly about the axis. The axis is located in the opposite part of the machine, relative to the fixing nuts. The desired position is fixed with two M12 fixing nuts for a size 19 wrench.

3. Cutting widths or a guide plane along the saw blade, made of duralumin angle 30x70 (mm). Pins with an interference fit are inserted into a small part of the corner, with the help of which, the corner can easily move along the through grooves made in the machine plate. In the middle of the pins, at the bottom of the plate, there is an M8 bolt. In the desired position, the corner is fixed on the table with wing nuts.

View of the adjusting unit from the bottom of the table

View of the adjusting unit from the top of the table

Circular saw characteristics:

Power, W - 750
Food, V - 220
Revolutions per minute, rpm - 1500
Saw blade diameter, mm - 180
Saw blade landing diameter, mm - 20
Maximum cutting depth, mm - 50
Maximum cutting width from the guide plane, mm - 150

Dimensions:

Width, mm - 450
Length, mm - 700
Height, mm - 411

Design features:

Homemade circular saw on double-row ball bearings, which significantly increases the service life of the equipment
the frame is made of a square tube, it is possible to fix it permanently to the floor or workbench
table six millimeters thick, made of metal plate
inside the frame there is a protective cover from wood chips, made of sheet metal with a thickness of 0.8 ... 1.0 mm

The primary processing of wood materials often involves cutting them. For execution, you can use several types of tools - from hand-held to electrical models. The most effective is one that you can do yourself.

Circular saw design

At the first stage, you should understand the design features, determine the optimal manufacturing scheme. It directly depends on the characteristics of the work performed, the dimensions of the workpiece, the type of wood. Only then can a circular saw be made with your own hands.

The main component of the saw is the blade, on the end surface of which the cutting teeth are located. They can differ not only in geometric dimensions, but also in the angle of inclination relative to the plane of the disk. To carry out cuts, an electric motor is provided in the structure. It can be connected to the disc directly (through the shaft) or by means of a propulsion torque transmission system. This tool is designed to perform longitudinal and cross cuts, in some models it is possible to make angular cuts relative to the plane of the workpiece.

Before making a circular saw with your own hands, you should choose the processing depth. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the equipment classification:

  • small - from 40 to 46 mm;
  • medium - from 55 to 55 mm;
  • large - from 65 to 70 mm;
  • professional - from 65 to 140 mm.

For household chores, it is enough to choose a model with a small or medium cutting depth. If complex material processing is required, a hand-held circular saw is required. To make vertical cuts, you can make a homemade sawmill.

For woodworking, it is necessary to choose discs with a positive sharpening angle. Otherwise, the wood fibers will not be cut, but torn.

Circular saw table design

The main component of the future design is a hand-made table. It will house the power unit, cutting tool, control unit and additional components to get the job done.

There are two fundamentally different schemes for designing a table. In the first case, it is designed to work with a hand saw. The main task of the support bed is to fix the workpiece and the ability to change the direction of the cuts. Most often, wooden components are used to make a table with your own hands - chipboard sheets, slats and timber.

The sawmill is one of the varieties of circular saws. The difference lies in the bottom position of the disc. In this case, the table functions as a bed. It houses the power unit, there is a disk mounting block, as well as a control system.

During design, the following points must be taken into account:

  • electric motor power. For housework, it is enough to choose a model with a specific power of up to 800 W;
  • cutting depth. Depends on the geometric parameters of the disk;
  • rotation frequency. To form an even color, this characteristic must be at least 1600 rpm;
  • location of the control unit. It should be as far away from the disk as possible.

The dimensions of a homemade design depend on the size of the parts being processed. For the manufacture of a manual sawmill, it is recommended to use a metal sheet as a table top. Additionally, stiffeners are mounted at its base.

When choosing a factory model of a saw for completing a do-it-yourself table, it should be possible to mount it at the bottom of the tabletop. To do this, you will need to make an additional adapter mounting block.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

Drawing up a manufacturing scheme depends on the actual availability of consumables. The most attention should be paid to the design of the table. In addition to functionality, it must be stable, withstand maximum pressure without changing its position.

First you need to make a tabletop with your own hands. To do this, markup is performed on the sheet material. It is best to take a tool and mark the cutouts according to its dimensions. With the help of a router, a recess is made for mounting the tool. Then you need to install additional components:

  • support for workpieces. This is a wooden strip that attaches to the table top. Its position can be changed relative to the disc;
  • grooves for the stop. They are milled onto the surface of the countertop;
  • yardstick. It is installed at the leading edge of the disc. It is necessary for the formation of blanks of a certain width and length;
  • clamps. They are an optional component. With their help, the part is rigidly fixed on the table for processing its surface with a hand tool.

After that, according to the actual dimensions of the table top, it is necessary to make the support legs. For this, you can use wooden beams 40 * 40 mm or steel corners. To improve stability, stiffeners are attached between the legs. The saw control unit must be located at the workplace. An RCD and fuses must be installed in case the maximum load of the electric motor is exceeded.

The vast majority of repairs and summer cottages require a good carpentry power tool. Often in home carpentry, it is required to dissolve massive lumber on a slat or planks. You can't run into a stationary circular saw to your neighbors, and a hand-held circular saw is inconvenient for these purposes. Therefore, the majority of DIYers sooner or later come to the idea of ​​making a stationary circular saw for themselves with their own hands from scrap materials.

Working conditions of the circular saw for wood

A circular saw is needed primarily to make a long cut in a block of wood, precise and even, like a stretched string. It is possible to ensure high cut quality only by fulfilling three conditions:

  • High speed of movement of the cutting edge of the saw. Ideally, you can get a cut quality comparable to a surface sanded with emery cloth;
  • Sharp cutting edge of circular saw tooth. Some brands of discs are made from high speed steel, but it is best to use a tool with carbide taps;
  • High rigidity of the "circular saw blade - work table" system. The higher the stiffness, the more accurate and smoother the cut line will be.

Any saw with a working tool in the form of a toothed disk poses a serious danger to the worker, so they try to make a table for a circular saw with their own hands as durable and convenient as possible.

For your information! In industrial circular saws, large diameter discs are used, up to 60-70 cm, so the speed of the electric motor is relatively low - 800-1200 rpm. In a home circular, the dimensions of the cutting disc do not exceed 25 cm, so the rotation speed is required quite high - up to 10,000 rpm.

Circular manufacturing options

You can build a circular saw in a home workshop using one of four schemes:

  1. Install an asynchronous electric motor of 1.0-1.5 kW on a table welded from metal, make an overdrive belt drive onto the shaft, on which the cutting disc is fixed with a flange;
  2. Make a small wooden table for a low-power washing machine motor;
  3. Install a hand-held circular saw of industrial production on a machine assembled from a wooden bar;
  4. Use an ordinary angle grinder as a drive for building a circular grinder, in which the abrasive disc is replaced with a steel cutting tool.

All the above schemes are used in practice with different efficiency. If you need to unfold thick, up to 100 mm thick beams and logs, you will need a circular saw with a powerful motor and a steel frame.

A grinder is well suited for trimming small parts made of wood, but it is practically not used for a stationary circular saw due to the limited time of continuous work. A relatively weak and uncomfortable circular saw is obtained from the engine from the washing machine. Low power - 500 W and low revolutions require the manufacture of an overdrive V-belt drive and a system of two shafts. There is a lot of trouble, but the quality of the cut and productivity on such a circular is low.

Building a home circular

According to the reviews of many home-made carpenters, the easiest way is to convert a hand-held model of a circular saw into a stationary one, or, more correctly, an easel one. In this case, you can kill at least three birds with one stone:

  • Firstly, hand-held circular saws have high rotation speeds, which means that a good cut quality is ensured;
  • Secondly, in a collector motor, the shaft is mounted on bearings designed for a radial load;
  • Thirdly, the cantilever mounting of the cutting blade allows you to relatively quickly replace it with a new one, without disassembling the circular saw.

For your information! The main advantage of the above circular saw scheme is a well-matched engine torque and speed, which ensure the maximum performance of the device.

On a disc with a diameter of 225 mm, the overhang or height of the disc above the worktable is only 40 mm. This is more than enough to cut a forty board into a strip or strip, cut out any curly details and solid wood. In addition, a spring-loaded protective cover is installed on the body of the circular, which covers the cutting edge in the inoperative position.

Perhaps this device is useful and necessary to protect the fingers and hands, but it only interferes with the work, since the thin cutting edge of the disc is not visible. Therefore, when altering it, it is often dismantled or fixed on the body of the circular saw in the open position.

Converting a hand-held circular saw into a stationary version

All that needs to be done to convert a hand saw to a stationary circular version is to make a table or box-shaped body and fix the saw on the back of the table top so that part of the cutting edge of the disc protrudes above the plane of the table, photo.

The size and shape of the circular table is selected based on the width and length of the lumber. For small boards, a one and a half meter table with a width of 60-70 cm will be optimal. The support part of a circular saw can be welded from a steel corner with a shelf width of 25-30 mm. In the upper and lower parts of the legs, horizontal struts are welded from reinforcement or a corner. This solution allows you to ensure the maximum rigidity of the frame.

For the countertop, you can use laminated chipboard or OSB, plywood 15-20 mm thick. In this case, the tabletop itself does not have to be symmetrically positioned with respect to the steel support frame. When cutting a board on a circular, you have to work with both hands. With one hand, the material is fed longitudinally forward, and with the other we press the board against the table. So, the main thing is that the location of the motor and the pressure point are not very close to the edge and do not create a tipping moment for the entire structure.

The plane adjacent to the cutting tool can be covered with metal or plastic to make it easier to move the massive board over the circular saw table.

The only drawback of this alteration is the need to alter the controls: the start button and the hold lever. Most hand-held circular saws, in addition to the start button, are equipped with a lever or a hold trigger. As long as you press the trigger against the saw handle with your fingers, the engine of the device runs normally. As soon as the trigger is released, the motor stops. A very necessary thing if you unexpectedly drop a working circular saw from your hands while cutting.

Therefore, the first step is to make changes to the control system of the handheld circular saw. For this, the contacts on the button and trigger are brought out to an external electric bag attached to the body. It goes without saying that such alterations can be performed on a power tool for which the warranty period has long expired.

In rare cases, it becomes necessary to remove the instrument from the table and use it in its original manual version. In this case, instead of soldering the contacts, the button and the trigger are fixed with a clamp or simply wrapped with electrical tape, and the power cord from the tool is included in the carrier with an on / off button.

The simplest version of altering a circular saw is shown in the photo. For a table circular saw, a box-shaped body is made from plywood. The tabletop with the installed circular saw is turned over and fixed on the box.

Making a guide ruler

When working on a circular, it is important to be able not only to cut the board, but to cut a strip or a strip of a given width exactly to size. To do this, a guide fence is installed on the saw tabletop, which can be moved relative to the plane of the disk, and thereby select the cutting width.

The ruler is made in the form of a steel angle. With the help of screws, the ruler can be relatively easily moved along the slots in the tabletop, and thereby change the size of the cut.

A simpler version of the ruler is made of pine boards, 40 mm wide and 20 cm longer than the table size. Along the edges of the board, two furniture nuts with a metric thread are pressed into the lower part. L-shaped hooks are attached to the ends of the ruler with screws. After installing the ruler, the hooks are tightened with screws, the hooks rise and firmly fix the guide bar on the tabletop.

Conclusion

Naturally, the power of a hand-held circular saw's commutator motor is not designed to handle the heavy workload. On such a machine, you can cut a couple of dozen strips, after which the engine must cool down. The total service life of the motor is 50-70 hours, after which it will be necessary to remove dust, clean the collector from carbon deposits and replace the brushes. But, in any case, the possibilities of the circular saw are quite enough for household work.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if a major renovation or construction is started. Manufactured products are not affordable for everyone - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.

Design - main units, their purpose

A stationary circular saw with your own hands is created with advancement in several possible directions:

  • adapting existing hand tools using a motor and a circular saw for new possibilities;
  • improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
  • assembly from individual parts, mainly manufactured in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main units: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fixing woodworking machinery. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high power motor. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable workload. The surface is made perfectly flat; protection shields are required over the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular, the engine from a washing machine is not bad. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are only designed for short-term operation. They have very high speed, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the farm does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors so that it works from 220 V.

The most critical unit is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or grind from round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setting, then, assembled with the working bodies, centering is checked. Even a minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which work is unacceptable. There are seats on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Basic parameters - calculation of power, rpm, transmission

The characteristics of the saw blade, the motor and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disc, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the motor to the shaft should be less. The motor power affects the maximum permissible diameter of the serrated saw. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise it will be difficult to cut. It is believed that for cutting materials with a thickness of 100 mm, a motor of at least 1 kW of power is needed.

The transmission is done only by V-belt - when foreign objects get under the saw, material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: the engine speed and the maximum allowable saw blade speed. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the motor, and a pulley with a smaller diameter is installed on the circular shaft in order to increase the speed.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, the smaller the diameter of its pulley is from the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - capital product for the home

For work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. A sufficiently powerful electric motor is required, a rigid table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, you can plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required to connect to 220V.

1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5,7 - a desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disc; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - driving pulley; 17 - switch.

The working table has dimensions of 700 × 300 mm. In the drawing, we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. The length and width can be increased, the height can be increased up to 1200 mm. The rest of the dimensions are adjusted to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First, we make the frame of the bed from steel corners of 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make one more same lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we strap them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the engine deck retaining bolts. Two studs are welded to the rear side of the platform, protruding into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we stop the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, you need eight racks - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with the grooves located in the mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. Drill holes in the middle of each of them, weld nuts. The threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

At the end, they abut against the racks welded to the side bars assembled from corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves, is attached to the side bars with countersunk head bolts. The adjusting mechanism works like this:

  • release the nuts on the racks;
  • turn the screw that presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
  • tighten the stud nuts;
  • we carry out a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified by not installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble a table not from two halves, but solid, you only need four stands for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - converting to stationary

It is easy to make a stationary saw from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first step is to need a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well on the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. A large diameter disc will be required so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the countertop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric plane and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.

Using the drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for the circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required size on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole, we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to the circular saw specified in the passport.

We make a frame (drawers) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards in a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. Screw the screws into the boards through the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the side bars of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limiting bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the tsarga. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.

Some moments of the execution of self-made devices

No matter how well the circular is made, individual mistakes can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This applies, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The usual installation is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a DIY device with constant use, it is best to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect it from dust, swarf.

On the working surface, we apply a scale with a step of a centimeter. This will make woodwork much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disc, and in vain - treatment for chips in the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on the sawing machine without 380 V. You will need paper or oil-paper type capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V.

The capacity of the capacitors is calculated based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for the working capacitor Cp. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as much. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The launch is simple: SQ turns on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can saw.