How to make a clay castle for a pond. We create a pond with fish in the country with our own hands

You can absolutely correctly, plant beautiful aquatic plants, beautifully arrange the coastal zone, but spoil everything with the sloppy design of the border of the pond with the garden. A professional approach to this issue will solve not only the problems of decorating a garden pond, but also eliminate the likelihood of bank erosion.

On the Internet, there is a huge amount of information about the installation of a reservoir, the choice of materials for waterproofing and edging, the selection of plants, and the technology for designing the border of water and the coast is not well covered.

Materials for the design of the reservoir

Materials for the decoration of the reservoir should be harmoniously attached to the size of the garden and the style of the house. Most often, natural and artificial stone, crushed rocks, pieces of marble, pebbles of various colors, ceramic and paving slabs, wood, gravel, sand are used. For reservoirs with a concrete base, marble chips, colored glass, fragments of porcelain and ceramics are used, which are fixed on concrete that has not yet hardened, the fragments are pressed inward with sharp edges.

All decorative elements of the coastline of the reservoir must be properly fixed in their positions. Stones, ceramic and paving slabs, bricks are fixed with cement mortar, while leaving pockets for planting.

Film pond edging

For a natural transition from the pond to the garden, you can use a special decorative film, which is covered with a layer of gravel, so it perfectly imitates rocky terrain. Since the film with a stone does not hold water by itself, they lay it on top of the waterproofing, carefully line the bottom of the pond so that its rocky edges go ashore. It is advisable to fix the edges and seams with glue for the film. Then large stones are randomly laid on the surface of the film along the edge of the pond, simulating a natural landscape. Such a film is the most successful option for decorating a pond with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals.

Coconut mats for pond edging

If the pond has sheer walls, then when the water evaporates, film edges can be observed. In this case, wicker dark brown coconut mats are used for edging, which visually imitate the soil, do not interfere with the growth and development of coastal plants, the latter, growing densely on a solid base, decorate and strengthen the coast well.

The technology of laying coconut mats is quite simple. The mats are laid without stretch, starting from the coastal part, they are placed along the border of the future reservoir with the shore, lowering the lower part of the coil by about 50 cm into the pit, and carefully fixing the upper part on the shore with the help of U-shaped reinforcement brackets. To fix the mat on PVC, a special assembly adhesive is used. At the junction of coconut sheets, the overlap should be at least 20 cm. During installation, the direction of the overlap is taken into account - the edge of the sheet should not be visible from the viewing side. From the shore, the mesh structure of the coconut mat is covered with a plant substrate, and the part of the mat that will be in the water is covered with sandy soil mixed with fine gravel.

Coconut matting option

Another option

In this case, you can get by with a minimum amount or completely exclude it from the design of the reservoir. This method of designing the coastal zone of a reservoir models the most natural landscape and is well suited for landscape style.

Advantages of coconut mats for strengthening the banks of the reservoir

1. Environmentally friendly natural material.

2. Does not require large investments.

3. Easy to install.

4. Protects the coast from erosion.

5. Provides a long service life due to the slow decomposition of coconut fiber.

6. Promote vegetation growth and soil strengthening.

7. Improves water outflow.

8. Resistant to UV radiation.

9. Resistant to organic decomposition processes.

10. Closes the waterproofing of the reservoir when water evaporates.

11. Serves as a basis for the root system of aquatic and coastal plants.

If coconut mats are not used to fix the banks of the reservoir, and only planned around it, then the edges of the waterproofing film can be hidden under the lawn to a depth of 8 - 10 cm. But this method will not help mask the unsightly film edges during water evaporation and will not save you from waterlogging and erosion coastal part with its excess. Therefore, after the usual heavy rain in the clearing around the garden pond, a flooded meadow will suddenly appear. In the summer - this is half the trouble, but in the fall? Therefore, it is not worth saving on strengthening the coast, just putting a coconut mat under the lawn is enough. There will be no obstacles for the growth of lawn grass, the waterproofing will be closed, and the coastline will be protected from erosion.

There are no special secrets in the technology of crossing the borders of a concrete or stone edging with a lawn. Both stone and concrete can directly border water, earth and vegetation.

How to decorate the edges of the pond with stone

The size of the stone framing the edge of the pond should be proportional to the size of the pond itself, large stones are in harmony with a large pond, small stones with small ones. The shape and structure of the stones should also be similar. It is not advisable to use several different types of stones in the design of the reservoir.

When decorating a pond from a concrete base or a polymer form with a stone, it is necessary to prepare a substrate from the shore side - where the stones are in contact with the ground, black lutrasil is first laid, covered with sand, then with gravel. Large boulders are laid along the perimeter of the reservoir in such a way that part of the stone hangs slightly above the water, in which case all the costs of the edges of the pond are easily covered.

Small stones, which cover the bottom of the reservoir, should smoothly turn into larger ones towards the shore. Moreover, when laying out stones along the perimeter of the coastal zone, care must be taken not to form a continuous line. In this case, it is better to make the edging of the reservoir intermittent, alternating stones and plants in random order, avoiding symmetry. Large stones are placed flat, slightly tilted to the side towards the shore.

Before permanently fixing the stones in cement, they should be laid out in their intended places, then the composition should be examined from all sides and the errors corrected. Only after that, the stones can be installed on the cement mortar, deepening into the mortar by 1/3 of their height. Don't forget to leave pockets for planting.

How to arrange the edges of the pond with the correct geometric shapes

The edging of strict geometric shapes of garden ponds can be done using wooden boards, ceramic tiles, stone slabs, natural or artificial stone. When choosing a material for the design of the coastal zone, it must be taken into account that wooden boards and glossy ceramic tiles become slippery after rain.

Natalia Vysotskaya, dendrologist, landscape designer, Ph.D. -X. Sciences

2012 - 2017, . All rights reserved.

But, seeing how the neighbors squeezed out a bowl of high-strength cement several tons in a couple of winters, I was convinced that a rigid structure was not good. In general, everything was thought out and set to work.

I made the contour of the future reservoir oval - 8 m long, 3.5 m wide.

Together with my son they dug for a week, the walls were made inclined, about 120 °. The summer was dry, digging was easy: dry clay did not stick to the shovel. On occasion, I bought a black adhesive film for gas pipelines, the thing is very good, the only negative is that it is afraid of ultraviolet radiation, but it still served for almost 20 years.

The reservoir turned out to be 1.5 m deep, three steps were made to exit, at the lowest point they buried a 160-liter plastic barrel for the pump when replacing water. Then the entire reservoir was laid with two layers of polyethylene and glued with a black self-adhesive film - at that time it turned out super.

True, the reservoir was quickly chosen by mosquito larvae, we had to launch crucian fry, which took root perfectly.

In winter, I don’t drain the water, and the fish calmly hibernate in a barrel (the depth is 2.5 m).

However, time passes, the film has cracked over the years, the appearance has become untidy. I decided to overlay the reservoir with stone, since I brought a whole bunch of it from the city, mainly from garbage dumps.

Again, together with my son, they stripped off the entire old film, glued it with a new one, especially since now everything can be bought. The bottom of the reservoir (up to 80 cm) was overlaid with a square diabase with a solid bowl on concrete with reinforcement.

Above, I began to make blocks of 12 stones with thermal expansion joints so that they would not break in winter.

And on top, the parapet and the frame of the flowerpot were made entirely of concrete and wild stone, and there was enough stone for the hill-waterfall.

In general, while my structure stood for two winters, no cracks are visible. Carp are also doing well. Last year there were so many fry that they shared with neighbors, they just have a wild pond.

To be honest, a lot of work, everything about everything took 20 bags of cement and a decent amount of stone, but it turned out so beautiful! And water gurgles from a jug, and crucians play in the water! If anyone has questions, please call.

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Landscape designers actively use all kinds of stones to decorate man-made reservoirs. With their help, you can mask the artificial materials used in the construction of the pond in the country, as well as give the pond a more natural and picturesque look.

We offer you a brief instruction on the choice of stones for arranging reservoirs and how to lay them.

Where Can Stones Be Used?

Stones are widely used to give the pond a finished look. They find application:

• in the coastal zone. Place here several large rounded or irregularly shaped stones. They will become an element that limits the zone of the reservoir;
• in shallow water. It is appropriate to place several stones partially hidden by water, as well as pebbles covering all shallow water;
• at the bottom of the reservoir. In deep (more than 1 m) reservoirs, the bottom usually does not require decoration. But you can lay a few large stones that will be visible through the water column. They will look especially impressive at night with the device. Also, the stones perfectly mask the submersible pump, making it indistinguishable at the bottom of the pond;
• on the islets. Several large stones are located on the area of ​​​​the island, as well as on the coast;
• as part of a waterfall. Flat stones are used to form a cascade, a plane from which water will fall to the next level. Stones of suitable shape and size are used to form an artificial hill;
• at the source of the spring. As a stone from which an artificial spring will beat, a beautiful block is chosen. A hole is drilled in it and a pump is connected - it turns out simple, but very;
• in the construction of fountains. Decorative stone is used to mask the nozzles of the fountain and the hose through which water is pumped by the pump.

Below is one of the examples of decorating ponds with stones.

Which stone to choose?

The video below shows an example of the design of a reservoir with stones: there was a place for both springs and a waterfall.

About artificial stone

Those who are not going to carry heavy boulders or hire lifting equipment for this purpose can use artificial stone. It is a decorative product made of fiberglass, hollow inside and having a hole in the bottom.

Outwardly, such stones are almost indistinguishable from natural ones, they have a characteristic relief and color. Their main application is the masking of pumping equipment, hatches, various technological units. But they can also be used as an independent element of landscape design, for example, this applies to huge decorative boulders.

1. In the pond, large stones look great, half or a third submerged in water. Especially if their surface is decorated with live moss. But for its development, the block must be in a shady place.
2. Do not want the water to bloom actively in the pond? Then try to avoid the use of limestone, which reduces its acidity, which, coupled with good natural light in the pond, leads to the development of algae.
3. If a film was used as a waterproofing of a reservoir, do not place stones with sharp edges, heavy boulders in the reservoir and next to it. To be safe from above, the plastic film can be covered with a layer of geotextile.
4. Be very careful about masking the edge of the pond - you should not make a heavy stone necklace around it, which will look redundant. Make the stone outline intermittent by diversifying the design of the coast with sand mounds or plants.
5. Combine the stones used in the construction of a hydraulic structure with the materials used in the construction or decoration of buildings on the site. For example, if marble was used for lining the columns of the gazebo, then it can also be used to decorate the fountain.

Even with a single stone, you can make a good waterfall. Confirmation of these words is in the video below.

Stone laying options

Stone laying is carried out in two ways: with and without mortar. The use of cement mortar is justified if it is necessary to strengthen the banks of a reservoir, equip a stream bed, build a complex structure of a waterfall or fountain. In these cases, use a mixture of sand and cement grade not lower than M300 in a ratio of 3:1.

Dilute the mixture with water to the consistency of fatty sour cream. To give the solution characteristic waterproofing properties, add up to 10% liquid glass to it, then mix thoroughly. Apply the solution with a layer of the required thickness, then moisten the stone and fix it in the desired position.

Immerse smooth rounded stones into the solution by 2/3 of the volume - this will prevent them from falling out of the nest later. After three days, the masonry mortar will acquire sufficient strength.

Laying natural stone is a real art. Even if you plan to reinforce the masonry with mortar, try to assemble it without it first. So you can choose the optimal size and shape of the bricks of your design. High-quality stone finishing implies the presence of a minimum thickness of the masonry joint from the mortar, which is achieved by carefully considering each step.

The approach to laying stones when decorating and strengthening the banks of the pond is largely determined by the slope of the underwater part of the coastline. If it does not exceed 30 degrees, then the stones can be laid without mortar, but for a tighter fixation, greasy clay should be used. In other cases, it is better to use a solution on cement.

Alternatively, a row of stones up to 0.5 m high can be laid, after which cement mortar is poured into the space between the film and the stones. Only after its setting can you continue to work on the same principle.

As a parting word

Fight the temptation to turn your pond into a stone-lined pool! Remember that moderation is important in design. Pay more attention to those that will delight you with their greenery and flowers.

Leonid Karpov

Returning from Fokine, I wandered around the small station of Vladimir, waiting for the train, and thought about how to use my time usefully. Approaching the book stall, I immediately drew attention to the book "Reservoirs and Pools". " But Anastasia offered to dig a lake at each site", - I remembered and began to leaf through the book with interest. However, it everywhere assumed an artificial waterproof layer-film, roofing material, etc., which was not woven into the bright image of the estate - the shores should "breathe"! Later I learned that when covering the bottom with a film, the water must be drained regularly, otherwise it will deteriorate.

Arriving in Chelyabinsk, I thought about how water is kept in natural reservoirs - there is natural waterproofing! And in the book of Anastasia Semyonova "The Living Water of Your Garden" I met the project of the lake " on a clay castle".

Clay castle lake project

First of all, dig a recess with sloping (not steeper than 20-25 degrees) banks, a third of the depth of the reservoir you planned. The excavated soil will continue the banks and triple the depth ... With a slope from the pit, make a groove into which, from the very wall of the reservoir, lay a pipe to drain excess water into a ditch or ravine. Strengthen the bottom and walls of the reservoir with clay.

The clay is kneaded with water until it becomes a soft dough that does not stick to the shovel. A mass of 15 centimeters is laid on the bottom and on the walls of the reservoir and tamped. The clay is allowed to dry, a second layer is laid and compacted again. Then the third layer is laid. Each layer shrinks by about 3 centimeters, so the final thickness is about 35-39 cm.

At the edges of the reservoir, reinforcing layers of clay are made 15 cm above the expected water level. After the final drying, a 2-3 cm layer of coarse gravel is tamped into the upper layer of clay. For final finishing, 5-7 cm of fine gravel or sand is poured over the gravel.

When the soil is less moisture-intensive, the bottom of the pool is strengthened with clay mixed with straw: Pools are most often filled with rainwater.

Much attention is paid to the vegetative design of the lake:

The yellow flowers of the swimsuit and the lower marigold are in harmony with the blue forget-me-nots reflected in the water. Graceful astilbe inflorescences bloom in July, when the rest of the plants have already faded.

The dense foliage of the peony serves as a good backdrop for the openwork leaves of the astilbe and bathing suit, and the large purple flowers bring revival to the blue-yellow range of spring flowering. The floral design is complemented by willow - a constant companion of natural reservoirs: Flowers are illuminated by the sun; ferns grow in the deep shade of a willow. The pleasant aroma of mock orange (jasmine) planted by the bench will add even more charm to this corner of the garden.

It seems that the events in my life are built with more and more strict logic. At the "Cup of Love" festival, resting from the heat and immobility, I swam in the local pool and was amazed at how successful its size is - small, but allowing you to relax, joining in a different, joyful state .

The coach, looking after the pool at the same time, reported its dimensions - 10x25 meters, depth - 1.1-1.2 m. Anastasia's words surfaced in my memory: " In the garden we will dig a shallow pond, two hundred square meters in size.". 10x20 meters - just two acres! Taking into account the smooth lowering of the banks (maximum 25o), the volume of the pond is about 160 m3.

To replace water in it in 2 weeks, as is done in a pool, a source with a capacity of 8 liters per minute is required - a water tap with good pressure gives 15. The spring that Anastasia proposed to create on each site (Vladimir Megre talked about it at the presentation of the fifth books in Petersburg) can flow into the pond, replenishing it with fresh water.

According to the site www.anastasiaclub.ru

P.S. If you think that this information should be shared with others, share it on social networks.

(magazine "DOM" No. 9 for 2010) we examined the issues that need to be addressed when designing a pond: the choice of location, shape and size of the reservoir, methods of filling it, etc. Now we will focus on the main stages construction of a decorative pond with a bed of PVC film.

foundation pit

After the project of the pond is ready, they begin to dig a pit. At the same time, the deepest place of the pond is first dug, and then the sidewalls are gradually selected, bringing the bed to the desired size and shape.

If the soil is loamy or clayey, then in the lowest part of the bottom it is advisable to make a vertical drainage hole with a drill and fill it with rubble or sand. The importance of this event will become clear when, in the midst of work, it suddenly rains heavily and water pours into the pit - through the drainage it will go into the ground. And later, when pond will be built, groundwater will also go into this drainage without exerting pressure on the walls.

As in the manufacture of a reinforced concrete pond, when using polyvinyl chloride (PVC) films for this purpose, you must first make a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 cm along the shore and 15 cm at the bottom. Sand after backfilling is shed and compacted. After that, a geotextile with a density of 300 g/m 2 is laid on it. This material is felt-like in appearance, stretches well and can withstand large point loads (sometimes referred to as "soft bedding" in pond building instructions).
Geotextile strips are laid on the bed across the long axis with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Instead of the "300" geotextile, several layers of the "80" or "100" geotextile can be laid. However, it should be borne in mind that the material of these grades stretches weakly and cannot withstand large point loads, therefore, when preparing the pit, all stones and roots should be removed from its walls and bottom, and the bedding sand should be sifted.
Transparent film for greenhouses and greenhouses is not used in the construction of ponds, since it loses its qualities after 3 years (but usually breaks earlier). The same can be said about the reinforced film.
A PVC film for a reservoir (as well as a rubber membrane) is used with a thickness of at least 0.8 mm. These materials are acid- and alkali-resistant, do not decompose under the influence of sunlight, high and low temperatures, and withstand significant mechanical loads. They are produced in strips up to 15 m wide, which makes it possible to cover the pond bed in one piece. In addition, the pieces of film are easy to stick together.

The dimensions of the film are determined after the sand cushion is made. The film should come ashore approximately 0.5 m above the water level. Moreover, the very edge of the film should be bent upwards, cut off at a level of 2 ... 3 cm above the soil surface and fixed in this position with stones. Otherwise, the water from the pond due to the force of surface tension will be sucked into the soil surrounding the reservoir.

Laying foil and stones

The prepared piece of film, folded in half along the long axis, is placed on one side of the bed, after which the film is unfolded to the other side. The material is straightened so that it is pressed to the ground as much as possible. The upper parts of the film are pressed on the banks with stones.
If you plan to build bathing pond, then after laying the film, it can be filled with water. If they want to give the reservoir a natural look, its walls are lined with flagstone or boulders. It is believed that stones can be laid directly on the film, but it is better to protect it with geotextile with a density of 80 or 100 g / m 2 and lay stones on it.

The bottom can be made of stone or gravel. In the latter case, the laying of stones begins from the walls of the bed. But in general, it is advisable to use crushed stone as a decorative material, and not as a backfill for the bottom, since due to flowability, the film may not withstand the pressure of groundwater and swell in the bottom of the pond.
When the slope of the underwater part of the coast is less than 30 °, the stones are laid without fastening to each other, but with dressing of the seams, filling the space between them with either clay or a mixture of clay with wet peat in a ratio of 3: 1. If the coast is steeper, the stones should be fixed with cement mortar. They do it this way: they lay a row of stones, after which the space between the film (geotextile) and the stones is filled with cement mortar, and the voids facing the inside of the pond are covered with clay. In one day, you should not lay more than 50 cm of stones in height, since if the cement mortar has not hardened, the masonry can slide down the slope of the coast.

Pumping equipment and decorative lighting

Any body of water looks more attractive when using various kinds of lighting and organizing the movement of water. Currently, there is a large selection of surface and underwater lights, pumps, fountains and pumps, often combined with filters. It is only necessary to remember that all products that consume electricity must be appropriately labeled, allowing their use in the open air and in water. The electrical wiring must satisfy the same conditions.

When using electrical equipment, the question often arises: "Should I leave it for the winter?". The answer depends on the size of the pond. Lamps and pumps should be removed from freezing low-volume shallow water bodies. In non-freezing reservoirs (at a depth of more than 1.5 m), electrical equipment is left for the winter. However, if pumps and fixtures are installed in the freezing zone (up to 0.6 ... 1 m), they should be removed or deepened. In addition, in autumn it is necessary to drain water from above-water filters and pipes (hoses).
If the electrical equipment is planned to be removed during the conservation of the pond for the winter, then when installing it, the wires are either left openly lying on the ground (black wires are not striking), or they are covered with stones, rubble, laid between plants, etc. If the electrical equipment is not removed, then it is more convenient to pass the wires and hoses and bring them ashore through a special pipe, which is laid in advance on the bed of the pond and covered with stones. On the shore, the wires are hidden in a corrugated sleeve and buried to a depth of at least 10 cm.
Finally, in accordance with safety standards, any power-consuming equipment must be de-energized as quickly as possible in case of breakdowns or malfunctions. That is, the switch, sockets, and for some models - ballasts, must be installed near the pond in a special electrical box.

Filling and decorating the pond

Usually, 7-10 days after the last decorative stone is laid on the cement mortar (in some recommendations, when using high grades of cement, a period of 3 days is indicated) the first pond filling. Water is kept for about 10 days, preferably with stirring. (To do this, it is enough to lower the pump into the pond, the hose from which is placed near the surface of the pond.) The task of the "first water" is to displace air from possible cavities between the facing stones and the film and press the film to the pond bed as much as possible, wash out the alkaline substances from the hardened cement mortar ( of course, not all, but - if possible) and rinse the backfill gravel. After removing the "first water", they clean the bottom of the pond from dirt and debris, mount pumps (pumps, fountains), install underwater lights, decorate or hide wires and hoses.
Aquatic and semi-aquatic plants are planted in pre-prepared and soaked soil in niches on the slopes of the banks. From above, the soil is covered with rubble or pebbles. Plants can also be planted in mesh baskets with soil, which are installed either in niches or at the bottom of a reservoir and decorated with stones.
If the reservoir can be filled in a short time, then all the plants are planted at once. Otherwise, plants are planted as the pond fills up.

It should be remembered that the pond will fulfill its decorative function if it becomes an element of a whole complex consisting of the reservoir itself, plants, stone lining and ridges, as well as paths and garden structures - bridges, etc. Of the trees and shrubs near the pond, weeping forms of willow, birch, larch, small bushes of purple willow or sucker, single plantings of juniper or mountain pine, derain, skumpia, hydrangea, mock orange, thickets of spirea, astilbe, kupena and so on - an assortment of suitable plants are almost limitless.

water cascade

Cascade, waterfall, cliff, rock, coastal rock garden, spring - the design of these decorative elements should be created at the design stage of the pond. All these "structures", with the exception of a small coastal rock garden or spring, should be built on their own foundations. Otherwise, a multi-ton stone mass (and 1 m 3 of a stone can weigh 2 tons) will simply slide into the pond and destroy its wall.
Therefore, first of all, you should determine the size of the cascade (or other structures), calculate its tonnage and determine the pressure on the ground. It is believed that at a pressure of 1 ton per 1 m 2, the depth of laying a monolithic foundation can be within 50 cm.

But it should be borne in mind that when the soil freezes, such a foundation can be squeezed out or shifted to the side by heaving forces. Therefore, it is laid to the freezing depth, subject to the relevant requirements (laying a sand cushion, filling the sinuses with non-porous soil, waterproofing).
The height of the waterfall, the number of waterfalls in the cascade, the degree of overhang of the cliff, the steepness of the cliff - all this is chosen to your liking or based on the designer's recommendations.
But there are a few purely construction tricks:
- all stone or masonry materials should not retain water, otherwise in winter it can break the masonry;
- to ensure a uniform flow of water at the top of the waterfall, a "water intake tank" should be laid out of stone, where water will be pumped by a pump. The drain stone is made of limestone, the outer edge of which is set horizontally in level, and the back part is slightly deepened;
- so that the water in the "receptacle" does not remain for the winter, it is necessary to make a drainage hole in its lower part, which is closed in summer;
- when a waterfall jet falls, a large amount of spray is usually formed, which over time can wash away the waterfall wall and foundation. To avoid this, the wall is protected with a film or membrane, which is decorated with stones;
- when constructing a cascade, it is advisable to create a lower "receiving tank", and push the drain stone forward so that water does not fall directly onto the pond wall.

Of course, a waterfall or a rock, a cascade or a spring will look lonely and untidy if they are not decorated with plants. Near these structures, you can plant all plants suitable for rock gardens and rockeries. In addition, such "non-mountainous" plants as ferns, callas, irises, feces, kupena, etc. will feel great under the splashes of water.
It should be borne in mind that all stone elements greatly cool the soil in autumn and do not allow plants to properly prepare for winter. Therefore, plants should not be planted directly into the stone massif. It is necessary to ensure reliable thermal insulation of the soil and, consequently, the roots of plants from the stone mass.

S. Batov, magazine "Dom" No. 10/2010

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