Do-it-yourself technology for building a house from profiled timber. How to build a house from a bar correctly? How to build a log house correctly

If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing a material will be relevant.

The most budgetary option would be to build a house from a bar. With all the cheapness of this material, the house will be warm enough, durable and strong.

Having studied the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose a bar with a section of 150x150 mm.

But in the event that you do not want to attract additional labor, such lumber as dry timber 150x100 mm is suitable for you, which, after erection and shrinkage, can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in terms of thermal insulation to other buildings from a bar of a larger section.

Construction stages and foundation erection

And so, the material has been purchased, we proceed to the construction of the house:

• Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the foundation area;
• In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).

The foundation can be piled, monolithic or tape, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively lightweight.

After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then proceed to the laying of the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what the bar laid in the crowns is fastened to each other. They are usually made of dense wood (larch).

With a bar size of 150x100 mm, pins with a length of about 12 cm are suitable. Also, the technology of laying a bar requires laying a mezhventsovy heater. Usually these are roll materials such as jute, tow or moss can also be used.

On the advice of experts, you should use fresh red or peat moss that has lain for no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future house should be made of larch, which is not subject to decay. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.

The timber of the first crown is fastened to each other, by a technique known as "half a tree" - at the ends of the timber they make a cut lengthwise and across. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot with staples or nails.

Methods for attaching the timber to the foundation

At the stage of pouring the base into its top layer, bolts with bent or cone-shaped bases are mounted. The distance between such bolts should not exceed 0.5 m. There should be at least two bolts for each element of the first crown.

Before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation in the timber of the first crown.

A pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.

After laying the first crown and fixing it on the foundation studs using washers and locknuts, bring the horizontal in level so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Having laid the first crown, we proceed to the construction of the walls.

To do this, you need a variety of tools:

Note!

• Gasoline or electric saw;
• Hand circular saw;
• Drill;
• Level;
• Roulette;
• Axe;
• Hammer;
• Schurovert;
• Perforator;
• Plane.

Consumables are also needed - nails, self-tapping screws, mezhventsovy insulation, fire-retardant impregnations.

After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, we proceed to the construction of the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall of the required height is obtained.

After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings are installed. The next stage is the final erection of the walls under the roof.

Roofing and flooring

We strongly do not recommend saving on material for installing the roof. This part of the house can be executed in several versions:

• Single slope;
• Gable;
• Hip;
• Hip;
• Semi-hip;
• Multi-pliers;
• Vaulted and tambourine roofs.

It all depends on your desire, money and the complexity of the rafter system.

Note!

The floors and ceilings in the house are also not an unimportant stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and basements.

Diy photo of a house from a bar

Note!

Building your own home is a very important step. And if you decide to do this work yourself, then there will be even more questions and doubts. Today we will discuss whether it is possible to build a house from a bar with our own hands, we will highlight each of the stages of construction, we will try to reveal all possible options. Whether you have enough strength and skills for this difficult task is up to you. Where to begin? What to pay special attention to? You will find short answers to all these questions in this article.

The very first questions that arise long before construction:

Where to build?

Perhaps this question will not be acute for you. Often a suburban area is used for construction, where individual housing construction is allowed; an empty plot or with dilapidated housing was inherited from parents or relatives; government assistance for the third child. There can be a lot of reasons for the appearance of land in ownership. Often, it is with the advent of a land plot that there is a desire to acquire your own spacious home for living or a cozy country house for summer vacations.

What if there is no site? How to choose the right place for construction? Here you should decide on the purpose of your home. Any site is suitable for a summer cottage for temporary stay. The main criteria here are environment and ecology. When it comes to building a home for permanent residence, there are many more factors to consider. You should be attentive to the terrain and soil. This can significantly complicate the construction in terms of the arrangement of the foundation. It is important to pay attention to the location of communications. It is hard to imagine a comfortable life without electricity. Gas allows you to simplify and reduce the cost of heating the house. The water supply problem can be solved with a well. But here again we return to the geological study of soils. Drilling can sometimes be a big costly problem.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

Ask an expert

The environmental issue is also important. The most polluted areas are often the cheapest. In such a place, it makes no sense to build environmentally friendly houses from a bar.

What to build?

What purpose are you planning to build a house? We've already mentioned how important it is to determine how your structure will be used: a temporary place to spend time with family and friends, or a cozy nest for permanent residence. It is also necessary to choose the size of the object commensurate with the building site. It may be worth planning the location of other buildings on your site in order to harmoniously arrange a bathhouse, garage, gazebo, garden and other elements of a comfortable stay.

What to build from?

Now there are a lot of materials and technologies for construction. We will not consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. We decided to build a house from a bar for ourselves.

After solving these issues, you can directly start construction, although here, too, you will first have to work with your head. There is still a long way to go to direct work with hands.

Preparatory work before the start of construction

Before starting work on the site, you must have a clear design of your facility. It is difficult to imagine the construction of even small buildings without it. How to draw up a project for your home correctly?

• Long before construction, we made a choice in favor of a residential cottage or a country house. Now you need to make a choice of the size of the future house. This may depend on the size of your family, financial capacity.
• Having decided on the size of the house, it is necessary to decide on the choice of technology for building a house from a bar. Some of the materials may not allow the solution of your project.
• Houses made of sawn timber. The material used is an edged bar with 4 or 2 sawn flat edges. The material has natural moisture. The main advantage of this material is its availability and low cost. You can easily find a supplier of such material. Disadvantages: the need to use additional seals between the crowns, low aesthetics (requires external and internal finishing), significant shrinkage of the house, the appearance of cracks.
• Houses made of profiled timber. Sliced ​​timber of a special section. The workpiece is equipped with a tongue and groove for tight fitting without additional seals. It can be made of wood of natural moisture or chamber drying.
• Houses made of laminated veneer lumber. The same profiled timber, but made by gluing individual boards using a special technology. It is made only from kiln-dried wood.
• ... The wall is a "pie" of two parallel walls made of a board with a section of 45 (47) x135 (140) mm with filling the space between them with insulation.

The choice of construction technology is inextricably linked with the search for a reliable supplier of the required material. The Internet and telephone allow you to solve this issue even without visiting the manufacturer's office. You will be able to clarify the price and delivery time, you just have to read the reviews about the supplier.

We chose the size and material

Now you can start the final design of the house. This is where the internet can be useful, too. One has only to write a request "project of a house from a 6 by 6 bar" or "a house from a bar 8 by 8", and you will receive a huge list of projects, often even with a calculated cost. You should not reshape the project for yourself without a good knowledge of wooden architecture. You can also use a typical project from a material supplier (especially for profiled or glued beams). Often, design services can be offered free of charge when ordering a home kit from the manufacturer.

With the finished project, it is necessary to draw up an estimate of materials. Even if you are confident in the availability of the chosen project, you should not give up the estimate work. It is necessary at least to calculate the supply of building materials so that there are no delays in work, there are no difficulties in their storage. At this stage, you can afford to call suppliers and choose the most optimal option in terms of price and quality. Often negligent developers have to rush to look for some material with a significant overpayment. Almost all suppliers of building materials are familiar with the formulation of the question: "We must have yesterday ..." They use this to earn additional income.

The estimate will also have to include the cost of the foundation of the house. You have a project, you know the approximate entire object, the soil was studied even before the design - the choice of the type of foundation will be a simple matter.

Now we are ready to go to the building site. You can start field work, but before that you need to solve another important issue.

Tools for building a house from a bar

Building a house from a bar does not require a wide range of special tools. But even this insignificant list is not found in every man, especially if it is not related to construction. So what is required:

• Chainsaw or electric saw. You will definitely need a chain saw, for precise work you will also need a circular saw or a miter-trimming machine (for finishing work).
• Tape measure, cord for measuring and marking.
• Level, hydro level, plumb lines, level. The construction of all structures of the house requires constant monitoring of horizontal and vertical alignment. The most expensive of these tools is a level, which is required only for foundation work.
• Hammer, ax, sledgehammer - it is difficult to imagine any carpentry work without these tools.
• Perforator, drill, screwdriver. It is difficult to imagine modern works without work with fasteners.
• A range of personal protective equipment. These include goggles, respirators, safety elements (a lot of work will be done at height).
• Grinder for cutting metal elements (especially for working with roofing materials).

Arrangement of the foundation

So, it's time to start building. Where does any object begin? Of course, from the construction of the foundation, the reliability of the entire building depends on it. This is not the most difficult, but one of the most important stages in the construction of a house from a bar. We will not consider the features of choosing different types of foundation. We have already made a choice based on the assessment of the soil and the weight of the finished house. We will only talk about the features of the do-it-yourself foundation installation work.

Foundation on screw piles

Widespread due to its versatility and speed of installation. How to install? First, you need to calculate the number of piles and their diameter. Then you need to calculate the location of the piles on the site. Even at the design stage, you should have a drawing of the pile field for your house. According to this plan, the site is marked with laces and pegs.

Now you can start screwing the piles. To facilitate the beginning of screwing, you can dig holes with a depth of no more than 20 cm. The pile is installed in the hole, and with the help of a special rod and assistants, the pile is screwed strictly vertically. The pile sites should be at the same level, this is controlled with a level. You can start installing the grillage. In the case of using a wooden grillage from a bar or metal from a channel, they are simply fixed on the pile sites. For a reinforced concrete grillage, the installation of formwork from boards or plywood and the laying of reinforcement will be required.

Foundation on concrete piles

Factory-made concrete piles can be driven in (heavy special equipment will be required) or bored piles. In the case of bored piles, the pile field is also marked. After that, holes are drilled to the depth of freezing or holes of the required depth are dug. A formwork made of roofing material or boards is installed in the hole. Concrete is poured, and pre-bonded reinforcement is immersed in it. Now you can start installing the grillage. This is done by analogy with a screw pile foundation.

Strip foundation

For houses from a bar, a strip shallow foundation is often used, which perfectly distributes the load of the house. For the installation of the strip foundation, a trench is excavated according to the project of the house. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand, which is rammed or spilled with water. Next, formwork is mounted from boards or plywood, and specially bonded reinforcement is laid. The foundation is poured with level control.

Slab foundation

Installation is carried out in the same way as strip foundations. The only difference is that a pit is being dug under the entire area of ​​the house. Sand is poured onto the same area, reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured.

After the concrete has hardened, waterproofing is laid and the Mauerlat or the first crown of the log house is installed.

Walling

It should be noted that after the first crown has been laid, the floor beams can be installed. They can cut into walls (a groove is cut in the wall beams) or fastened with metal supports.

The construction of walls is inextricably linked with the chosen technology. We will analyze the work process for each of the construction options.

• Edged timber. Before laying each subsequent crown, the sealing material is laid: jute, flax fiber, tow, moss. After laying the row, it is necessary to drill through two beams with a drill and a serpentine drill. A dowel made of wood will be driven into this hole to give the wall height rigidity. Instead of wooden dowels, special metal elements can be used, but in this case, a marking of their location is left on the timber for the subsequent sawing of openings for windows and doors (houses from edged timber are not made according to the project with ready-made openings).
• Profiled or glued beams. These two technologies have the same workpiece profile, therefore the assembly has identical operations. First of all, it is necessary to lay out the set of timber according to the technological map (each timber is marked, and its position is written in the project). The exception is profiled timber, purchased in the form of molded timber. This material is supplied in a length of 6 meters without bowls. In this case, the assembly is carried out by analogy with the edged bar, with the exception of laying the sealing material. Driving of the dowels is carried out according to the technology described above.
• Double bar. Absolutely different technology. Boards are hammered into each other using a sledgehammer and special overlays. The verticality of the wall is ensured by hammering in cross-sections. With the help of the same cuts, a constant gap between the outer and inner walls is controlled. Before you start building a house from a double bar with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with all the intricacies of working with this material. A minor violation of technology can lead to disastrous results.

Difficulties in the construction of walls are associated only with the rise of the timber to a great height. 2-3 people are quite capable of assembling a house from a bar of any size.

Roof installation

One of the most difficult stages of building a house is the installation of the truss system. Even experienced builders treat this stage of work with the greatest responsibility. Let's not delve into the complex shapes of the roof. If you decide to install a roof with a cuckoo, hip or complex multi-pitched roof, then you have a lot of your own knowledge. Consider the installation of a gable roof.

After laying the timber of the upper harness, markings of future farms are made. The truss spacing usually does not exceed 1.5 meters. The first farm is assembled on the spot, the rest can be sawed on the ground according to a template. First, two extreme trusses are installed, on which the ridge beam is laid. The cord is pulled to control the level of the intermediate trusses. The crate is sewn from edged board or OSB. The waterproofing contour is laid, the counter-batten is sewn on. The roofing material can now be laid. The range of roofing materials is very wide, and you can find preparation for each of them on the Internet. The most simple for an inexperienced builder is profiled sheet, metal tile, ondulin and onduvilla.

Finishing

Building a house under a roof is a big victory when building on your own. Now you don't have to worry about the longevity of your log house.

Finishing work should start with the facade. If a planed bar was used, then only its coloring with protective decorative compounds is required. In the case of working with edged beams, they are treated with an antiseptic and the facade is sheathed with finishing materials. For cladding, imitation timber, blockhouse, siding (vinyl or metal), facade panels, fiber cement siding or panels can be used. Working with cladding materials is always the same: installation of lathing from a bar or profile and fastening of cladding material using self-tapping screws or special fasteners - kleimer.

A special place in the decoration is occupied by the installation of windows and doors. Shrinkage of a log house in height requires the installation of additional shrink boxes. The simplest is the installation of rough T-shaped casing boxes. At the ends of the timber in the sawn openings, a groove of 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm is selected using a router. A bar is laid in it, on which the settling bar of the walls will slide. A dry board with a thickness of at least 40 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall is attached to this bar. Above and below a board of a similar cross section is placed. A gap of 2 to 10 cm is left above the top board of the box, depending on the material used (dry or natural moisture). Windows and doors can be safely installed in these boxes in accordance with their standard technology for brick houses.

You can talk a lot and for a long time about the interior decoration of the house and communications. A variety of finishing materials, engineering systems can lead even an experienced builder into the jungle. Try to study the question specifically for your finishing option. The Internet and expert advice on the forums will provide you with real help.

Conclusion

We only briefly told you about the stages of building a house from a bar with our own hands. Now it remains to make a decision - are you ready to go this way, or is it better to trust the professionals. Of course, you cannot do all the work yourself. But how much of the work should you take into your own hands? You decide. Remember that poorly executed work can only bring you additional costs, not savings.

The decision to build a house from a bar is not taken immediately and not suddenly. It's just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, a 195 mm thick bar is enough. With such a thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but to save on heating it is better to insulate it (outside with 10 mm of mineral wool) and make a reclaimable facade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

For the construction of a house, coniferous wood is usually used. There are several reasons. First, the high content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Due to their presence, wood is not destroyed for a long time. Secondly, the affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak beams, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to handle.

Of all the conifers, most often they put a house from a pine bar. With good performance, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely installed: they are too expensive. Spruce is even less common, but for a different reason: it is destroyed the fastest of all, and even difficult to process. So with regard to the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. In 95% it is pine. But the type of timber must be dealt with.

According to the method of processing, the timber can be:

• Plain or solid, non-planed timber. Sawed from a solid log, the cross-section is a quadrangle (square or rectangle).
• Profiled timber. It is also cut from a solid log, but after that it is processed: spikes and grooves are formed with cutters - profiles, with the help of which one bar is joined to another. The side faces are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of a complex shape. The side faces can be flat, rounded, curly - with chamfers, the shape of the "lock" - numerous barbs and grooves.
• Glued laminated timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's analyze the features of each of the types of timber, regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from a bar, then they definitely understood an ordinary rectangular bar. There was simply no other, or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable price per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may turn out to be higher than from the profiled one. It's all about the features of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when erecting a house from unplaned timber, a mezhventsovy heater is necessarily used. Its geometry is imperfect, and if this is not done, the blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be sooooo strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and you cannot do without finishing inside and out.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. Caulk is needed not one, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood of natural moisture. In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a "decent" look, they are either sheathed with finishing materials, or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-crown seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to grind the timber, what to do with the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result may be higher: add to the cost of the timber an inter-crown insulation, caulking material and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Consider also that moldings are brought to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut out on the spot. This means that the qualifications of the carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in a log house, it is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of the profiled bar

Considering the profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces. In any case, it should be so. With good workmanship, finishing is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be even and smooth, even if immediately for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks) of through slots cannot be. Producers of profiled beams say that you can lay walls without interfacing insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put at least a thin, but insulation. Someone uses a thin substrate under the laminate, someone uses self-expanding tape for mounting plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most widespread profile among developers lately is “comb”. It can have a "tooth" of different heights and widths, and is loved by everyone because, in theory, it is impossible to "blow" it. Nevertheless, here they are insured by laying insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two extreme ones on the right in the picture are glued timber, but the same profile is made from solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having made the decision to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its moisture content. Profiled timber can be of natural moisture content (cheaper), sometimes it is chamber drying with a moisture content of no more than 14-16%. We have already considered the features of lumber of natural moisture, now let's talk about chamber drying. The company installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of high temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany the drying of wood take place in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part of it goes to waste, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem to be clear.

If you decide to build a house from a kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The blockhouse should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. In this case, new cracks are rarely formed, only existing ones expand. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while wood is considered to be 8-12% for chamber drying.

In any case, gaps will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in very limited volumes: first of all, you will have to look through all the corners and cuts, if any (this is the name of the attachment points of the walls). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly during the process, causing a gap to appear. Also, the timber can be turned out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So a periodic revision of the corners is also required during operation. Wood is a living material, and something will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, too large cracks in the timber will have to be repaired (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open up the crack).

The blockhouse is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

The situation with the assembly may be simpler. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from a profiled bar, as from a usual one, on the site. But many enterprises, if there is a project, offer to take on part of the work. With the help of a special program, they make a layout on the timber: they make a list of "spare parts" from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, and with molded thickets. The blanks are numbered and brought ready to the site, where it remains to fold the house, like a designer: folding the bars according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying for carpenters: assembling such a highly qualified designer is not required. Only in this case, whether your home will be warm or not, depends on how exactly the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are firms that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulking will badly save

In general, there are disadvantages and advantages, but compared to a conventional bar, a profiled one is more convenient in construction, and at a price it can also come out cheaper if you count with finishing.

Glued laminated timber

It is clear from the name that it consists of glued parts. First, lamellas are cut out, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain humidity, and then glued. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag of this material is about 2.5-3 times higher than that of a regular one and 80-90% higher than that of a profiled one.

What are its advantages? Correctly made, it does not crack, it does not lead: dry material cannot have shrinkage, and glued beads should have a moisture content of no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be used for painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is also carried out at the enterprise (it should, in any case).

What does glued laminated timber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that the folded log house can be immediately put under the roof after a few weeks, and after a few more weeks, finishing can be started. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and the geometric dimensions of the laminated veneer lumber should not change. That is, a significant time saving is obtained - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But is glued bead so good? In terms of construction speed, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This negates one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Second, it has low vapor permeability. Many people put up wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber is deprived of this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only an attractive appearance remains, but finished with a clapboard of the corresponding profile or block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of glued beams for building a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house from a bar

A log house has several advantages:

• The walls are lightweight, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs for its construction will be lower.
• Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows shallow foundations to be made on well-draining soils.

The choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the soil, but most often they do it, if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings for temporary residence - summer cottages, baths, etc.) or without). The choice should preferably be based on the results of geological studies. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is "seized", prepare the wood. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Compositions are used that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After the preparation of the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

• Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent wood from the foundation from pulling moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat, stick roll.
• Laying the flap. The beam is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Desirable - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure the best preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board, impregnated with bitumen mastic with mining, is laid on the waterproofing. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and on top is already the first crown. All these layers are connected to the foundation by pins, which are embedded in the foundation.
• Rough floor. Floor logs are attached to the first crown - a bar with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid out with a step of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, boards of the subfloor are laid out on the logs without nailing them.
• Assembly of walls from a bar. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are "slaughtered". Saw out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, it is circled, then cut out. They often use a chainsaw, but a fairly high degree of ownership of the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the saw. The joining shapes of the timber are shown in the picture.

We have already spoken about laying the mezhventsovy insulation: when using a regular bar, it is mandatory, under profiled - it is desirable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are interconnected by pins - long round bars carved from a solid piece of wood, dowels - rectangular or hairpins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection, into which the connecting element is hammered.

• The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When a simple device is installed, the rafter legs are installed, while the order is different. A windproof membrane is rolled out and fixed onto the assembled rafter system. In this form, the house is left for a long period of time to dry out.
• Door and window openings. For speedy shrinkage and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, put a window or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not placed until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can start finishing work. All the time, while the blockhouse is standing, it is necessary to monitor the processes taking place in the wood. It is immediately necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, drill them. Then monitor their condition, as well as the joints of the timber. If the pins were driven in with great effort, during shrinkage, the timber can hang on them, which causes cracks to form. You can solve the problem by rambling around: they take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house sits down too slowly.

The video shows the main steps on how to build a house from a bar. Despite the lyrical digressions, there is a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit according to the project, a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with washed down bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting for flaws. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the ligament and suffocated - it became covered with a fungus. It was postponed for a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohjusta) and piled up.

So that there are no problems with the fungus, a gasket is laid under each - boards lying across.

Also, rolls of insulation and dowels were purchased. Nagels were sent to swim in the impregnation. They poured impregnation into the old bathtub and left them for half a day, then they took them out and dried them.

On the waterproofing laid on the foundation, the first crown was laid out - a half-beam. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to the studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called "zero".

We measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there is no distortion, they must be equal. Allowable misalignment is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill the holes for the dowels. So that there are no holes larger / smaller than necessary in length, a limiter tree was planted on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. We fasten them in a checkerboard pattern with pins.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly washed down cups. When laying the timber, we get a huge gap. The fight against this is only to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies flat.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Profiled timber walls kicked out

We start assembling the rafter system. First, as is customary, the two extreme farms are installed, then - everything else, according to the project.

The finished crate was sheathed with roofing felt. So let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the boards of the subfloor, nailing every fifth one. They will dry with the house.

Related Videos

The mistakes that are made when building houses from profiled timber are described in detail and discussed in this video. Very helpful. Take a look.

For hundreds of years, our ancestors built houses from wood, during this time many new, modern building materials have appeared, but people invariably return to natural materials and the best of them is wood.

Wooden houses:

• warm,
• reliable,
• beautiful,
• durable.

But they have another important advantage, a wooden house is easy enough to build. Having 3 people who know how to use carpentry, locksmith's tools, as assistants, in one season you can build a good wooden house, from profiled or glued beams, and with your own hands.

Important: You can lay the foundation in advance, while it is warm, and build the house itself when the cold comes.

What is timber

The most popular are two types. Profiled timber is a wooden product, with a square or rectangular cross-section.

The timber can be even, geometrically correct in shape. Or profiled, having a certain profile, which allows you to more tightly dock the product at the mating points.

Glued laminated timber, appeared relatively recently, it can be called a product of new, advanced technologies.

Visually, it looks like a profiled one. But the production technology is more complex. Glued laminated timber consists of several layers of wood, bonded using a special technology. It is stronger, more durable, easier to work with.

Important: Profiled timber can shrink up to 50 mm per 1m, depending on the dryness of the timber. Glued laminated timber shrinks, on average, 10-15 mm.

The thickness of the timber ranges from 90 mm to 275 mm.

The most popular are the profile section:

1. 100 mm by 150 mm.
2. 100 mm by 200 mm.
3. 150 mm by 200 mm.
4. 180 mm by 200 mm.

With a maximum standard length of up to 12m.

Wall length

m

Wall width

m

Wall height

m

Bar section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Bar length

5m 6m 7m 8m 9m 10m 11m 12m

Preparing a project

You won't be able to build from a bar without a project.

It is no secret that there are many countries in the CIS, and the level of bureaucracy is practically the same. We provide a list of the main documents that you will need to prepare.

• A drawing of the foundation is required, a detailed description for it with a full layout according to material, composition, depth, etc. As well as detailed data on soil, composition, quality, groundwater, etc.
• The next number is the building plan. You prepare it based on the foundation drawing, but also with a detailed description.
• After that, you need a floor-by-floor, detailed plan. In it, specify in detail partitions, stoves, fireplaces, windows, doors, etc.
• Another really important document is scattering. Simply put, this is a detailed sectional drawing of the walls of a house. By scattering, you can make an order for the manufacture of a bar, it will be made and marked for you, like a designer. Then just look at the numbers and collect.
• Specification of every detail of the house.
• Detailed drawing of the roof, with a detailed description of all layers.
• The final look of the house.

Please note: take seriously the description of the timber itself, what kind of wood, what kind of profile, the level of dryness of the timber, etc. This will eliminate misunderstandings when ordering.

The package of documents is solid, of course, you can resist, although the work is painstaking, but you can do it yourself. But - advice, do not waste time. Collecting papers can take longer than the construction itself. Trust the professionals, on our website they will be happy to help you and it will cost you much cheaper than amateur performances.

Laying the foundation

To build houses from a bar, a major, expensive foundation is not required. These buildings are relatively lightweight.

For construction

1. Shallow strip foundation. This type of foundation is laid in a trench and has a maximum depth of 50 cm.
2. Mixed or strip and columnar foundation. This type is similar to tape. But in all important nodes, it has reinforcement in the form of concrete pillars.
3. Columnar. This foundation is based on pillars connected by a concrete or metal grillage.
4. On screw metal piles or screw piles. A product of modern technology. Metal, non-corrosive piles are screwed into the ground and connected with a grillage. The foundation is convenient, also because it can be easily repaired.
5. On wooden piles, at this time it is rarely used since the tree, no matter how you handle it, still deteriorates in the ground.
6. On concrete piles. The foundation is excellent but expensive. To drive in a concrete pile, you need special construction equipment.

In order to build from a bar, the first 4 options are enough. The instructions below, with minor amendments, are suitable for the first 3 types of foundations.

Tape

• Any foundation starts with a markup. We use ordinary wooden pegs and fishing line for marking. At a distance of 30-40 cm from the projected wall, drive in the pegs and pull the fishing line.
• The body of the foundation will be indicated not by hammered pegs, but by a fishing line.

Important: after pulling the line, you should measure the diagonals. The distance along the diagonals must be exactly the same. Even the slightest discrepancy speaks of incorrect angles, and you will get an asymmetrical foundation.

• We take out the soil to a depth of 50 cm. Take into account the thickness of the formwork. Control the bottom of the trench by level.
• Next, we make 2 pillows up to 10 cm each. Sand plus rubble.
• We proceed to the installation of the formwork.
• We put in waterproofing, the most budgetary option is roofing material or thick, technical polyethylene.
• We weld or knit a reinforcing, metal frame.
• We fill it with concrete, it is better to fill it all at once, in a complex manner. Order a mixer, fill the foundation in one go and wait for it to harden.
• Remove the formwork, and put a crushed stone pillow in its place.

Mixed foundation

It differs from the previous tape by the presence of reinforcing pillars at the corners of the structure and in the most stressed nodes. Therefore, to the above, instructions for filling the pillars with your own hands are added.

• We drill a hole under each pillar, to a depth of 1 m.
• We make a similar blend of sand and gravel.
• We roll up a pipe from roofing material in 2-3 layers and fix it with tape.
• We insert the pipe into the pit, mount the reinforcement cage, 200 mm high above the general level of the foundation.
• Before the main fill, make the sole of the pillar. To do this, pour the solution into the pipe and raise the pipe, letting the solution spread. When the solution hardens a little, start pouring the entire foundation.

Column type foundation

The pillars in this foundation can be made from concrete as in the previous version. So go all out of bricks, in the form of a curbstone.

Only lay out the curbstone with a well, and insert the reinforcement cage inside and fill it with concrete.

Himself, the pedestals are set according to the level and the grillage is mounted on them.

The grillage can be concrete, then a formwork in the form of a bath is made on the pillars, it is waterproofed, reinforcement is installed and concrete is poured. Or it is welded from metal, which is attached to the reinforcement cage of the pillars.

Making crowns

The crowns are the first row of the timber. To build a good house from a bar, carefully consider the installation of crowns.

The video in this article clearly shows the installation with dowels.

Making the floor

At this stage, you should lay the foundation of the floor, a rough version. The final finishing will be done along with the interior fittings.

If you are building a relatively small building, bathhouse or garden house. It will be quite enough for you to lay an additional belt of the bar around the perimeter, fasten it to the crown and mount the logs on this belt.

But if the house occupies a large area, the approach will be slightly different.

With a large square, separate pedestals should be laid out to support the floor, something similar to a separate foundation for the floor.

• Depending on the composition of the soil, we lay the columns to a depth of half a meter.
• We make them square 40x40 or 50x50. The step of the bookmark is from 50 to 90 cm.
• In layers up to about 10 cm, we lay and tamp the sand and crushed stone.
• We make a small reinforcement cage, up to 10 cm high, install it and fill it with concrete.
• Next, we waterproof this base and lay out the brick cabinet, up to the level of the beams.
• Lay down the waterproofing again and install the beams.
• We grab the logs to the beams with self-tapping screws.
• Between the logs, using a corner, we mount waterproof plywood.
• We waterproof and tape all joints.
• We put insulation on top and cover with a rough floor.

Building the walls

If you did everything correctly before that, then it will not be difficult for you to build walls from a bar with your own hands.

• The profiled timber already has special grooves, they will facilitate the connection.
• Do the gusset as you like, there are 3 types of gusset:

1. End-to-end.
2. Half a tree.
3. By means of a root spike.

• Be sure to lay insulation between the timber.
• Check each laid beam by level and fix it with a dowel.
• Leave technological gaps for shrinkage in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe windows.

Important: when you put a load-bearing wall or support columns under the roof in the house, you should not rigidly attach them to the roof at first. Grab with self-tapping screws and enough. When the house starts to sit down and walk you will have to adjust the height of the support. When it sits down, fix it completely.

This video will tell you about the intricacies of wall construction.

We begin the installation of the roof

The roof is a rather important stage of construction, but you can mount it yourself.

• First, knock down a template from light boards. On it you will install the rafters.
• Next, we set the beginning and end of the structure according to the template.
• Between the installed rafters, at the control points, according to the level, we pull the strings from the fishing line.
• Guided by the strings, controlling the level and template, we mount the rest of the rafters.
• We fill the crate on top and fasten it with a stippler under the bottom, overlapping the vapor barrier.
• We put insulation under the vapor barrier, between the rafters, close it with another layer of vapor barrier.
• Next, we finally fix it with the bottom layer of the crate, it is already possible to attach the cladding to it according to your taste and wallet.
• From above, the most budgetary option is to cover the upper roofing felt lathing and on top of it slate sheets.

After a hard working week, you always want to have a good rest. And for this you need to go to nature outside the city, to your home. You can build a house from a bar with your own hands, having a small piece of land. You can improve it yourself, bring water and heating there, and make a sewerage system. You will want to spend every free day in this house, and eventually move into it altogether.

Cottage design

A house from a bar is erected without experience in construction in several stages:

• design;
• laying the foundation;
• laying of crowns;
• roof;
• finishing and laying of communication systems.

The beam has a rectangular shape, which allows you to initially obtain uniform walls and reduce construction time. An important point is also that it can only be used for the construction of houses up to a maximum of the 3rd floor. It has several more positive features:

• good performance properties;
• ecologicaly clean;
• design and others.

The house made of wood is warm enough due to the tight fit of the wood elements during construction. Wooden houses are also advantageous because interior and exterior decoration is quite easy, you can use various decorative elements.

Before proceeding to the construction of a summer cottage, you need to make its project and calculate how much this construction costs.

It is better to order a building project from construction companies. Their technicians will calculate everything to the smallest detail in terms of soil characteristics, construction technology, amount of material, and even find you a developer.

But in order to save money, it is better to independently develop drawings, calculate the number and cost of elements. In the case of the construction of several floors, the project must have floor plans. With the finished project, you need to contact a special institution to obtain a permit to build a house.

If you have made or ordered a drawing, then after receiving the appropriate signatures and an approved project, we proceed to the foundation.

Base bookmark

The main structural element of any building is the foundation. Before creating a project, it is very important to decide on the type of foundation for the house. If a mistake is made at the beginning of construction, then an incorrectly designed foundation will lead to negative consequences during the operation of the house and such serious problems will arise as:

• warp of the base;
• cracks in the supporting structure;
• deformation and others.

The reliability of the base of the building is the durability and quality of the building.

There are several types of foundations used in the construction of country houses:

• from screw piles;
• tape and others.

In areas outside the city, where soil moisture is increased, a foundation of screw piles is often used.

Its advantages are as follows:

• cost savings by 2-3 times (compared to strip foundations);
• easy to do yourself;
• construction time - 1-2 days;
• high reliability;
• you can work with him at any time of the year;
• application for difficult terrain.

As practice shows, this structure should be erected and poured on your own, since it will come out much cheaper and more reliable than the work of the so-called "specialists".

The most popular base for today in building houses. Its plus is that any house can be built on it, it is durable and less expensive. The base is quite strong, much less building materials are used for it, and the time allotted for work is significantly reduced.

How to make a strip foundation yourself:

1. First, let's mark the area around the perimeter of the house.
2. Then we will designate the location of the internal walls (load-bearing). The width of the dug trenches should exceed the width of the walls by at least 10 cm, and the depth should be higher than the level of freezing of the soil, but not less than 0.6 m.
3. Crushed stone and sand pillows (10 cm each), poured into the trench, must be poured with half a smaller layer of concrete (5 cm).
4. A formwork made of a 2.5 cm board must be installed so that its top above ground level (about 0.4 m) is visible.
5. For reinforcement, rods of 1 cm are used in two layers. The structure of them is laid longitudinally, then transversely, and the intersections are fixed with a strong wire with a gap of about 5 cm.
6. The popular type of cement M400 is used for concreting. To mix the solution, take it together with sand in a ratio of 1: 3.
7. Concrete is poured into the trench with a special pump or shovel.

The main thing is to prevent the appearance of bubbles before solidification. This is done using a special technology. The surface of the concrete (uncured) is periodically sprayed with water.

After pouring, the construction of the house is suspended for a month. This is necessary for the concrete to freeze and prepare for taking on a large load.

Construction of a building

How to build a house from a bar with your own hands? To build a warm and cozy summer cottage, you should take the choice of materials seriously. As practice shows, it is better to use coniferous timber, as it is strong and durable. There are two types:

• profiled;
• whole.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Profiled timber

It differs from a solid one in that it has crown grooves or spikes over the entire surface. It is quite easy and quick to build a house out of it.

The advantages of such a building:

• excellent thermal performance;
• modern design;
• smooth walls that do not require additional cladding;
• the design does not allow moisture to get into the inter-crown seam.

• highly flammable (to eliminate this drawback, it should be impregnated with special means);
• requires insulation on both sides when living in the cold season;
• redevelopment in a built house made of profiled timber is impossible.

This material should be chosen with a moisture content of no more than 20% (it is achieved in special dryers for wood).

Solid timber

It has many virtues, but looks bad on the outside. The process of preparing it for installation is quite quick. You can purchase the material in any construction company and in the construction market at a minimal cost.

How to build a house from solid elements after choosing the material:

• it is worth preparing for the fact that there will be additional costs for its finishing (siding, lining) to give a more aesthetic appearance;
• use only the highest quality wood; before use, it should be treated with antiseptic agents (to prevent the appearance of fungus).

In solid slats, the inter-row seams are weaker than in profile ones. When the tree shrinks and subsides, cracking and cracks appear. Eliminate them with plating, which leads to additional costs.

We build a house from solid elements:

1. The first crown is made on a doubled layer of waterproofing, which is laid over the foundation. The quality factor of the building depends on its assembly. As a rule, elements with a size of 150x150 mm are used.
2. The insulation is laid 0.3 meters more than the width of the foundation itself.
3. Then we assemble the walls from a bar, which we treat in advance without fail with an antiseptic. You need to process each rail.

The tree is laid out in rows. If the bar is solid, its grooves are additionally insulated with a special material. For strength, the elements can be connected with special spikes.

Roof of a wooden house

The roof, as the final stage in the construction of a building, must also look effective and original. To begin with, lay the Mauerlat (it is better to use elements 150x150) and attach it with hardware to the crown.

The rafter frame defines the shape of the roof. All parameters of the rafter system are pre-specified in the project. Slats up to 180 mm wide and 50 mm thick are fastened with steel plates.

We install the rafter frame and cover it with a layer of high-quality vapor barrier. Then we mount the crate (across the rafters) with nails. The distance between the slats will depend on the type of roofing material:

• tile - solid (slats end-to-end);
• slate, corrugated board - with a distance of 0.3 m.

It is worth remembering that a wooden house “settles down” over several years. During this period, you can live there, but it is strictly forbidden to trim and veneer.