Bath from a bar 150x150 drawing. We build our bath ourselves: how to properly build a bath building from a bar

From time immemorial, the Russian person has a love for the bath. To this day, he does not change and remains faithful for more than a dozen centuries. The bathhouse for our people has always served as a place for ablution and cleansing. Not for nothing they say I went to the bathhouse, as I was born again. The most precious place in the bathhouse is, of course, the steam room, there is nothing special at first glance, the heater and the shelves, but when you sit down, you’ll splash on the sauna stove, pour it over with raspberry heat, and then you will feel Russian love for the bathhouse. Not what saunas and other overseas curiosities did not stand next to our favorite bathhouse. How many songs and poems the people have dedicated to the bathhouse "Oh bath, bath you are raspberry hot"

You can endlessly praise the bath))).

Today there is a massive construction of baths on summer cottages and country estates, because in Soviet time it was forbidden to build capital structures on 6 acres. And about the bathhouse and in general there was not even a conversation, it was strictly forbidden. Later, in the 90s, the people had no time for this. Now, Thank God, the people have a penny and a little freedom of action.

People are drawn to their historical roots, and the bathhouse accompanies the people from the beginning of its existence. And it will not be surprising if people begin to explore other planets, then the first building on the new earth should be a bathhouse.

Today's construction boom is also fueled by the presence of a huge amount of building materials on the market. Of what baths are not being built today, the main and unchanging is wooden blockhouse, it is always in the first place, but bricks, blocks, timber are also used, which simplifies the construction process by an order of magnitude.

For example, from blocks, a box of a future bath, if desired, can be folded by one person, rather in a short time, without having construction skills.

Of course, you cannot compare with a log house, but still an alternative.

The author conceived the construction of a bathhouse on personal plot, and the material for the construction was chosen by timber, which is also much easier at the construction stages, because there is no need to cut crowns, grooves and everything else.

Previously, baths were built mainly without a foundation, as a result of which lower crown quickly fell into disrepair due to dampness. There was also basically no drainage system and sewerage system, and the water poured directly onto the floor, and went into the ground through the cracks in the floor.

But in our time, everything is far from the case, because people have learned to put the bath on the foundation, to make a drainage system, and a sewage system, as a result of which the bath's service life increases many times over. Also for Lately the bathhouse was divided into two rooms, a steam room, and a washing room, which also has a number of advantages in terms of temperature, because temperature and steam are not needed to bathe and wash, a separate room was allocated for these purposes.

Construction begins with pouring the foundation, then walling, roofing, installation sauna stove, interior decoration.

And so now let's take a closer look at all the stages of construction, how he carried out these works, and what he needed for this.

Materials: timber 100 to 100, cement, sand, roofing felt, tow, roofing material, sauna stove, brick, chimney pipes, sewage pipe, car tires.
Tools: chainsaw, hacksaw, ax, hammer, chisel, drill, screwdriver, trowel, mallet, level.

And so, first of all, he invites us to look at and understand the scheme of the future bath.

He began construction in the winter and first shovels snow to clear the site for construction.

And then he pours the foundation, makes waterproofing.

Then he begins to build walls.

Pay attention to how the author makes a lock for fastening the structure.

As the walls are erected, window and door openings appear.

Then he makes the roof and ceiling, while installing a plumb line in order to accurately install the bath stove later.

And now the main part of the construction is finished, the blockhouse is ready and hid under the roof.

Makes a drain.

Proceeds to the installation of a sauna stove and chimney.

Proceeds to the interior decoration of the bath.

Most people in construction give preference to exactly natural materials, namely the tree. Bar at all times was in great demand among connoisseurs of baths, it is safe for health, practical in collection and elegant. This article will help you understand the peculiarities of building a building from a profiled beam with your own hands, and will also tell you about some options for the construction of this structure.

How to choose the right timber

Before buying a tree for construction, you need to know certain features that you should pay attention to before purchasing material.

You need to carefully examine the tree. There should be no cracks on it, the timber can quickly deteriorate.
It is unnecessary to purchase material with dark spots. Spots often indicate a decay process.
It is worth abandoning logs with traces of a bark beetle, the presence of wormholes.
The low cost of the material may indicate its low quality.

High-quality material will allow you to build a beautiful structure and do it in a short time. When building, it is necessary to do everything in stages, not to rush so that the result meets all expectations.

How to prepare a bar yourself

Wood is a natural and expensive material, the price in Russia for a timber of size 150/150/6000 ranges from 7000 to 9000 rubles. You can prepare a log house yourself, mainly in winter.

After the cut, the tree should lie down for some time, one month is enough. After that, you need to carefully examine the trunks and select high-quality ones, without black spots (rot), traces of bark beetle.

Then we start cleaning the beams. The first step is to remove the bark, but not all of it. Leave about 15 cm of bark on both sides, this is necessary to prevent crackling. The workpieces must be folded on a hill so that the logs do not come into contact with the ground, at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other.

Before choosing a material, your attention should be paid to both deciduous trees and conifers. Logs from deciduous trees it is better to lay on the lower rows when building a bath, and higher are conifers - they have better thermal insulation.

A detailed report on the construction of a bathhouse from a log house with your own hands. It's simple.

How to draw up a project for a future bath

The technology of building a bath should begin with drawing up a project. The project will allow you to calculate to the smallest detail the characteristic nuances of this room.

Bath project example

An accurate plan allows you to save finances, thanks to the documentation, the owner will be able to accurately calculate the amount of all materials that he may need for construction.

In the title photo there is a small typical bath made of timber with an area of 6 * 4 sq. meters (turnkey price - 520 thousand rubles, felling - 300 thousand rubles)

When drawing up a project, consider the main nuances:

The number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time should be at least 4m 2 per person;
The location of the structure plays an important role, if there is a lake or river nearby, then it is better to design a bathhouse near the reservoir;
What materials, in addition to the timber itself, will you use for construction. They must be harmless (natural) for the body: stones for the steam room, moss, hemp for caulking logs.

Foundation construction

The foundation must have good resistance to various weather conditions (frost, snow, rain) and be durable. You can build a foundation on your own, without the help of professional builders.

The first step is to decide on the material of the foundation, the choice of which takes into account:

Level groundwater Location on;
Type of soil;
If possible, it is necessary to calculate as accurately as possible the load that will act on the foundation. This includes the weight of the building itself, the equipment inside the building, total weight people who can be in the steam room at the same time;
It is important to determine the depth of soil freezing in winter time of the year.

When building a bath, several types of foundations are often used:

Tape base;
Pillars;
Pile foundation.

Tape base

This type of foundation is classic version, it is used to build baths and other structures.

The strip foundation is:

monolithic;
prefabricated.

The first is a monolith tape, it is located along the entire base of the perimeter of the future bath with bridges in the middle serving as a support for load-bearing walls building. The very process of this foundation is digging a trench and laying a deck. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay metal reinforcement.

Made strip foundation can be erected if there is an access road near the future bath. Mobile ones weigh quite a lot, for this they use cranes.

Foundation pillars

This foundation is often used in flooded areas, for the sake of economy - as it does not require the use of a large amount of materials.

To erect a foundation with pillars, it is necessary to dig at least 6 identical holes around the perimeter of the future structure. After it is poured concrete mortar mainly with admixtures of stone, thus the pillars are erected. The distance between the supports must be at least 1.5 meters.

The columnar foundation evenly distributes the weight of the structure and can support a building with multiple floors. Foundation posts prevent water ingress in case of flooding.

Pile foundation

Piles are often used in areas with a gentle slope.

If there is no time and opportunity to correct the slope on the site, then they come to the rescue screw piles... They can be installed without difficulty, for several men in just 3 days.

The screw pile looks like a rod, it is hollow and made of durable metal. Upper layer the rod is covered with a special anti-corrosion agent, so that when screwing in (when scratches are formed), corrosion does not occur.

Laying the first crowns

After the construction and complete drying of the foundation, you can start laying the first crowns, it is not difficult, the main thing is to use the building level.

The first step is to check the first log for evenness, for this you need to use a level (not by eye, as many do). A perfectly flat beam at the base is the key to the successful construction of the entire structure.

The first crown should be much thicker than all subsequent ones, all subsequent ones will be held on it. Experienced builders argue that the first crown should be with sections of 20/20 cm, and all the rest will be laid above it, with sections of 15/15 cm, no less.

It is necessary to lay the first crowns not on the foundation itself, but on pre-fixed wooden yards, 1.5 cm wide. This will prevent dampness and decay and increase the service life of its use.

Before folding a tree, you should know that you cannot do it tightly, over time it will shrink and swell a little. Needless to fix bottom bar- the pressure of all the higher rows provides him with a good fixation. If lower frame the baths will need to be replaced, then the disassembly of the entire structure is not required, and only the bottom row needs to be removed.

This video will tell you more about the features of the construction of the walls of a wooden bath.

Walling

If the walls have not been previously processed, then this should be done, for this the tree is covered with a special protective agent, prevents fire and protects against harmful insects. When choosing logs, it is worth giving preference to logs without knots, as this may require additional processing material.

Before assembling the walls, everyone should know - this can be done in two ways:

With the remainder;
No residue.

The laying of beams with the remainder involves the spacing of the ends of the logs behind horizontal surface... Without a trace, the log lies close to each other without protruding ends. Let's take a look at each step by step.

A bath without the remnants of protruding logs requires less costs than with the remainder; the second requires logs more than half a meter long than in the laying of the first method.

In construction practice, there are several ways to connect a log house with the remainder:

Oblo;
Okhlop;
Okhryap.

First option assumes a cut round bowl the upper log, after which the next transverse log is placed in it.

Second option similar to the first, only the bowl is carved on the bottom of the log.

The third way has significant differences from the previous two. In this case, rectangular grooves are made on both sides for about a quarter of the length.

It is necessary to lay insulation on the first row, often moss or tow is used. After laying the second row, fix it, it can be done in two ways, using metal pins, wooden dowels.

Having laid all the crowns, you should know that the last few are not fixed, as they will eventually give styling. Ceiling beams are laid on top.

Caulking cracks

The construction of a bath involves caulking the cracks. Experts say that this is not necessary, since wooden structures, especially the baths, swell, smoothing out the cracks. If the walls are not caulked, then if for a long time do not use the steam room, then the logs in it dry up, thereby decreasing, so you still need to caulk the cracks.

The material for caulking cracks must have the following qualities:

Absorbs moisture well;
Keep warm and allow air to pass through;
Mold, insects should not form in it;
The material must perfectly tolerate fluctuations in temperature conditions;
It must be environmentally friendly.

Very often, for caulking cracks in timber structures, materials such as linseed tow, marsh moss, tow, sphagnum or hemp. All these materials absorb moisture well and protect the building from heat loss.

Roof

The roof for the steam room can be pitched or gable. For a bath from a bar 6x6 is often used gable roof, it perfectly suits the weather conditions of our country (under it you can place - an attic, an attic).

For a small steam room from a 6x3 bar, you can use pitched roof, before installing it, you need to think about insulation in advance. Insulation can be done in two ways, namely with the use of mineral wool or foam. Mineral wool much more expensive and more difficult in terms of installation. Polyfoam is much cheaper, its installation will take much less time.

Installation of doors and windows

Installation of doors and window frames can be done in parallel with the construction of walls or after. Do not forget during construction that the bathhouse will settle down over time, so installing windows in parallel with the construction can be very risky.

When the building is ready, you can start installing the window frames. If the places previously left under the windows turned out to be less than the frame itself, then they can be cut with a chainsaw.

The windows for the steam room use plastic or with wooden frames... As for the door, you should give preference to wood and during installation, remember that even a treated wood surface swells with increased moisture, and shrinks if insufficient.

There must be a small threshold under the door made of wood, which will prevent heat loss. The handle on the door from the side of the steam room must be wooden, you can get burned from the metal.

Construction of a structure from a bar by professionals of a construction company. What is better to do it yourself or hire professionals?

Natural shrinkage, interior work

Decorating a bath from a bar inside should be done as soon as the structure is seated. After laying the upper side beams, the structure should be covered with slate and left for at least six months without operation, preferably in winter.

After six months, the cover is removed, then covered with a permanent roof, windows, doors are installed and internal work is carried out.

If you do not have practice in construction, then in this case, preference should be given to small baths, measuring 3.5 / 3.5 meters, a family of 3-4 people can fit in it, while its equipment can consist of a dressing room, washing and of course a steam room.

If your private plot small, then in this case the bath can be combined with a utility room, very often the steam room is attached to the summer kitchen.

It is better to locate such a structure in the depths of the site, so that the neighbors do not interfere with your rest.

It is better for an inexperienced builder to give preference to a strip foundation, if the soil allows it.

Walls, both inside and outside, do not require a special coating, in extreme cases, this can be done with varnish, an antiseptic

Many people think that the bath is an expensive pleasure, besides double bar, that is, a natural expensive material. Not everyone thinks that you can make the blanks yourself on your own, and then build the steam room itself, thereby obtaining a full-fledged Russian bath from a natural bar cheaply, which will delight you for many years.

Do you want to build a bathhouse, but do not know what material is best to use to implement your idea? Then be sure to pay attention to the timber. A bath made of this material will be environmentally friendly, reliable and durable. At the same time, you can handle the construction of such a structure with your own hands.

V self-built baths from a bar are absolutely nothing complicated. This material has many advantages over its closest analogue - a rounded log (log house). Among the main advantages of the timber, the following points should be noted:

However, in order for a timber bath to fully demonstrate all its advantages and serve for the longest possible period, you must responsibly and competently approach the choice building material.

What kind of timber can be used to build a bath?

The most important operational parameters of the finished steam room directly depend on the quality of the wood. First of all, pay attention that the logs are intact. No cracks or other defects are allowed. Even minor damage can lead to big troubles in the future, as a result of which the wood will rot and collapse.

Make sure that there are no blue spots on the surface of the wood. Such defects indicate the presence of rot inside the material, the development of which, in most cases, is provoked by a variety of pathogens. It is impossible to use such material for the construction of a steam room and any other building.

There should be no noticeable traces of damage by beetles and other pests on the timber.

A high-quality timber has a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It is strongly recommended to refrain from buying material with distortions and any other damage - when laying the crowns, all deviations will clearly manifest themselves.

Bath building guide

Pre-compose yourself, order or find a bath project in an open source. Calculate by project required amount building materials and start building a bath from a bar. Start by arranging the base.

The first stage is the foundation

The finished wooden steam room will have a relatively low weight, which makes it possible to abandon the arrangement of monolithic buried foundation structures. A timber structure will feel great on an ordinary strip or columnar foundation.

To equip the base of the tape type, dig a trench around the perimeter and under the walls of the future structure, fill the bottom of the pit with a sand and gravel mixture, lay a reinforcing mesh, install formwork and pour concrete. The optimal foundation depth is 70-100 cm. When choosing a specific depth, be guided by the soil freezing indicators for your region.

Strip foundation - erection procedure

The foundation must rise at least 50 cm above the ground - this will provide the necessary protection for the lower rims from excessive moisture.

Inside the perimeter strip base scatter strips of sand and gravel. In the future, you can fill them with concrete or build a wooden floor - choose a specific option at your discretion.

For arrangement columnar foundation it is necessary to build supports made of brick or concrete asbestos pipes around the perimeter, in the corners and under the future inner walls baths. Under each such support, you should first equip a concrete "pillow". Place the posts in 150 cm increments.

Regardless of the type of base chosen, it must be subject to additional reinforcement.

Allow the concrete to harden for 3-5 weeks and proceed with further work.

The second stage is waterproofing the foundation

Apply molten bitumen to the surface of the base, and on it - a layer of roofing material. Let the bitumen harden and repeat the above operations. As a result, you get a reliable two-layer moisture protection.

Before proceeding with further work, saturate all wooden elements antiseptic. Such processing should be carried out after the preparation of the cuts for fastening the beams, if such cuts were absent initially.

Third stage - first crown

Start laying the first crown of the walls. To do this, first place slats up to 1.5 cm thick, pre-treated with an antiseptic, on the waterproofed base.Place the slats in steps of about 30 cm.

Place the first circle of beams on the slats. Thanks to the slats, contact of the timber with the bath foundation will be excluded. This will provide additional protection against wood decay and will significantly extend the life of the material.

Lay the first crown without securing it yet. Make sure it is laid correctly and evenly using a square and a level.

Align the lower rim bars if necessary, and then attach them to the foundation. There are several ways of fastening. The most optimal and frequently used method involves fixing the timber with anchor bolts.

However, developers quite often refuse to attach the lower beam to the foundation. In practice, the structure stands perfectly well without fixing the lower crown, supported by its own weight. The advantage of this solution is that in the future, if necessary, the lower rim bar can be replaced with much less effort.

Blow out the space between the first crown and the base with polyurethane foam.

The fourth stage - the rest of the crowns

For laying out the walls of the bath, a wooden beam with a section of 15x15 cm is perfect.

Cover the first crown of the bar thermal insulation material... Jute or moss are traditionally used for insulation. You can also use tow. In the case of using moss or tow, the thermal insulation should be laid out with a 10 cm overlap along the edges. In the future, you will use the raised edges for caulking.

Lay the second crown of the timber and fix it with wooden dowels. Pre-drill the fixing holes of the correct diameter. Usually the length of one dowel is enough to fasten 2-3 rows of timber.

Lay out the walls to the required height. Every 3-4 rows, check the structure with a square and building level... Place a seal between the rims.

The two upper rims do not need to be fastened. The wood will shrink. Ceiling beams can be mounted only after the wood has shrunk. To install the beams, the upper rims will need to be dismantled.

Fifth stage - door and window openings

There are two options for arranging openings for mounting doors and installing windows.

In accordance with the first option, the above-mentioned holes are created after the completion of the construction of the log bath. To do this, you must first leave small gaps in the crowns in the places where doors and windows are installed. The dimensions of the gaps depend on the dimensions of the installed products.

After the construction of the bath is completed, you will simply have to make openings with a chainsaw for mounting doors and windows.

In accordance with the second method, the openings for doors and windows must be left even during the construction of the bath. This option requires more significant costs time and effort. To accomplish the task, you will need to use special grooves and bars with end cuts.

Sixth stage - caulking

Leave the finished lumber box for "wintering" for 6-7 months. During this time, the wood will shrink sufficiently. For the period of "wintering" cover the timber with boards and slate.

If you used tow or moss as a mezhventsovy sealant, you can skip this step of the instructions - you will most likely not need an additional caulk in your bar bath.

However, experts recommend that you still study the state of the structure. If you find noticeable gaps, be sure to caulk. To do this, twist the tow or moss into a bundle and insert the material into the gap, followed by compaction.

You can also use a jute sealant to fill gaps. By most indicators, this material is superior to tow and moss, but it costs a little more.

Seventh stage - roof

The roof must become reliable protection your log bath. To the arrangement roof structure you can start only after the wood shrinks, otherwise the roof will lead and it will be significantly deformed.

First step. Lay down wooden beams over the top wall trim.

Second step. Attach to fixed beams rafter legs with a step of 100 cm. To connect the rafters in the ridge part of the roof, cut them at the required angle.

Step three. Nail solid plank flooring to the rafters (if for finishing soft roll material) or build a crate (if you plan to trim the roof with tiles, slate or other sheet material).

Fourth step. Mount the finishing roof covering in accordance with the instructions for the selected material.

Fifth step. Cover the ridge with galvanized iron. This will protect him from adverse influences. environment.

Sixth step. Sew up the gables of the roof with suitable materials at hand - clapboard, wooden board or siding. In this moment, focus on your individual preferences.

After finishing roofing works proceed with insulation and other insulation work, interior decoration and arrangement of the steam room in accordance with your project.

Happy work!

Video - Building a bath with your own hands

The construction of a bath is what most summer residents and owners think about. country houses when arranging backyard territory... As a building material, many people prefer natural wood, in particular, many pay attention to the timber. About him and will be discussed further.

Wooden beams has a number of advantages:

Good ratio prices for quality;
Ease of installation. Even an inexperienced builder can independently and without much difficulty build a small bathhouse on his site;
The timber gives minimal shrinkage compared to similar building materials;

This article will cover step-by-step instruction building a bath from a bar with your own hands, as well as advice on choosing quality material, foundation and much more.

First stage: design and selection of materials

As with the construction of any other building, for the bath you need to create a drawing, sketch, plan - call it what you want. To draw up a plan, it is better to contact special design agencies, they will help create individual project just for you, taking into account all the features of your site, and will also give several tips and tricks.

At this stage, it is necessary to study the soil on which the construction works... The choice and technology for the construction of the foundation depends on the result of the analysis. V finished plan all points should be presented: number of rooms, total area, wall thickness, appearance, main building, and facing material, the location of the oven should also be selected in advance, since it is necessary to provide for separate foundation.

*Important! The total area of the bath depends mainly on the expected number of people who will use it. On average, for each person it is necessary to provide additional 4 square meters.

For any bath project, the following premises are characteristic:

Dressing room;
Veranda (optional);
Washing room;
The steam room or sauna itself;
Restroom;

If the bathhouse will be used by only two or three people, then some rooms can be connected to increase free space, as well as expand their functionality. For example, a washing room can be presented in the form of a shower stall and located in one of the corners of the rest room. Or even the shower can be located outside the building, on the site.

The service life of the bath directly depends on the quality of the material from which it was built.

What you need to know and what you should pay attention to when choosing a bar:

Procurement period. Ideally, the timber should be harvested in winter from December to March.
Keeping period. After purchase, the material must be cleaned of the bark, if you harvest it yourself, leaving it only at the edges, and store in a dry place inaccessible to direct sunlight for one month. Only after that the tree is subject to processing and installation.
Appearance and the general condition of the raw materials. When buying, carefully inspect each bar. It should be free of decay, fungus (small blue spots called blue) and wormholes (traces of insect infestation). The bar must have an ideal geometric shape, smooth edges. The absence of even the smallest cracks is an indicator High Quality, because moisture can accumulate in them, and a damp tree will begin to collapse very quickly.
Variety... There are four main varieties: "Extra", "A", "B" and "C". They differ in quality and price. The "Extra" variety is the most expensive, but the price is fully justified. It is unlikely that you will find any defects on the bars of this type. Grade "A" is not much worse than its "older brother", cheaper, but almost identical in quality. The other two varieties are used mainly for exterior decoration and the construction of secondary buildings such as a barn, a chicken coop and so on.
Wood species. For the construction of a bath, it is better not to use coniferous bars, because when heated, this tree can "cry", increasing the chance of ignition due to resin, and in contact with the skin it can burn it. Experts advise using hardwood, namely linden, larch, oak. If desired, you can make a steam room from linden, since such a room heats up faster, does not burn the skin and respiratory tract, and the dressing room and other rooms are made of larch. True, linden has some peculiarity - it is less resistant to external influences(temperature, moisture), but cheaper.
Dimensions. A bar with a length of 4 or 6 meters is considered standard, all other options are considered non-standard and are more expensive, so it will be easier to build a 3x3, 4x4 square bath, and so on.
Storage method. In addition to what was said above, there are a number of requirements for the method of storing the material. Usually wooden blocks kept in packs or stacks, observing the gaps: between each other - 50 mm, between rows 100 mm and from the ground at a height of 200 mm.

In addition to the main building material, you will also need:

Cement brand M400;
Sawn timber;
Boards and slats;
Lining for finishing (external and internal);
Refractory and red ceramic bricks for the oven;
Roofing material, most often bituminous shingles.
Nails, screws;
Galvanized corners for fastening;
Reinforcement rods for creating a foundation reinforcement belt;
Insulation blocks;
Cement blocks;
Cable, sockets, lighting etc.

It is better to take all materials with a small margin, since no one is immune from accidental damage, and, in any case, they can be used on the farm.

The construction of a bath from a bar is easier and faster than from brick, cylindering or chopped logs. By quality characteristics it is not worse, but when using glued or profiled material natural moisture even better. This article will become a guide for those who are just going to build a bathhouse from a bar with their own hands. Readers will get acquainted with the main stages of assembling a bath, from foundation to roof, and will see photos and videos from specialists.

For the construction of a bath, you can use any timber. You need to count on your wallet and the ability to perform in further finishing or not. It is also important from which timber the main house was built, it is better if the material in the ensemble is used alone. There are several factors to consider when installing:

The type of wood from which the material is made.
Grade of a bar.
Type of timber (glued, profiled, edged).
The degree of drying of the material (natural moisture or chamber drying).

It is easier to build a square bath, for example, 3x3 or 4x4. It is important that standard length beams of 4 and 6 m, the rest are considered non-standard and cost more. During construction small bath near the house, a box of 3x3 m is considered optimal.

You can collect a traditional Russian bath or a Turkish, Finnish sauna from a bar. The material is not worse than a log and has many advantages. An excellent option for a bathhouse for a house and a summer residence, the main thing is to choose the right project and assemble a log house.

Log houses for a bath are sold ready-made "for assembly", it is easier to purchase and assemble them. We will tell you how to do this correctly below.

Wood - wood strife

For the construction of a bath, it is recommended to use linden or larch timber. Pine and spruce are cheaper, but due to more resin at high temperatures the walls will start to "cry". Of course, you can carry out interior decoration with linden clapboard, but this is an additional waste.

Linden timber is less resistant to the effects of the environment and moisture, but in the steam room it heats up so quickly and is more pleasant with tactile contact with the skin. You can cheat and purchase part of the timber from pine or larch, and part from linden. The steam room is assembled from linden material, and the dressing room and the washing room are made of larch. True, such a design requires an individual project. There is glued laminated timber, in which 1 or 2 upper lamellas are made of linden, and the inner ones are made of pine., Typical projects easier to assemble from this. Although larch or cedar baths are also not uncommon. The first option is cheaper.

A, B or C grades, we learn to choose a bath

The grade of the timber is also important. Of course, glued or planed chamber drying can be purchased without fear. But if it comes about profiled or edged timber, you should be careful. It depends on how strong and durable the bath under construction will be. Grade A or Extra has no cracks, wormholes, irregularities, but its price is higher than the rest. You can build a bathhouse with your own hands from material AB or B. The main thing is to make sure that wormholes and rotten knots do not fall on the beam. Slight color irregularities are acceptable, but should not be confused with blue. Blueness is a direct sign of the spread of rot and fungus, and already infected wood will not last long.

Cracks are also unacceptable, this is either a sign of improper drying or incorrect storage. And if the material is of natural moisture, then during shrinkage, the cracks will disperse and heat loss will increase. And this should not be allowed in the bathhouse.

According to GOST, small companies do not perform timber sorting, due to the lack of certain criteria by which it is worth subdividing varieties. Therefore, it is worth looking at varieties from various manufacturers, it may turn out that one will have better grade C than B, etc.

How the manufacture of the material affects the construction and use of a log bath

Disputes about which timber is suitable for the construction of a bath do not subside on the forums to this day. To say definitely that one of the types cannot be better, since they all have their pros and cons:

Type of timber for a bath, various processing		Advantages of building a bath	Cons when building a bath
Profiled	Natural moisture	Easy to mount The locking connection gives extra warmth and wind insulation. Low price. Eco-friendly.	Over time, you will still have to do additional insulation, and it is almost impossible to dig through the walls additionally Over time, you need to carry out external and internal finishing.
Profiled	Chamber drying	Fast assembly No finishing needed Can be used immediately after construction Environmentally friendly Need a lightweight foundation	High price Need constant care with antiseptics
Glued	Not required	We need a smaller section, so DIY construction is fast. External and internal finishing is not needed. No additional insulation is needed. We need a lightweight foundation.	High price. It is worth arguing about environmental friendliness, since the glue used to connect the lamellas can emit vapors of folmadehyde.
Simple bar	Cut natural moisture	Cheap Fast assembly Environmentally friendly Lightweight foundation suitable	Additional insulation and caulking is needed When shrinking, it cracks and requires external and internal finishing. It can twist when dry and the bath will "lead".
	Chamber drying	the same as for natural moisture, except for a low cost.	High price We need insulation and caulking
	Planed chamber drying	Fast assembly Environmental friendliness Suitable for lightweight foundations No front and inside finishing required	high price Over time, it will still crack and darken.

Chamber drying or natural humidity?

In any case, no matter what the manufacturers promise, a bath made of a bar for shrinkage will settle down and will be worse than chamber drying. After a while, the walls will darken, and the cracks will spread even more when dry. The main reason for this is improper drying of the material. A bar with a section of 100 mm or more in Russia, very few people dry properly. Therefore, when purchasing material, construction companies always measure the moisture content in the middle of the product with a hand-held moisture meter. You can buy timber from a winter forest, when the natural humidity is almost identical to the drying chamber. Yes, and construction in winter period is cheaper.

Purchase and calculation of material

You can calculate the amount of timber for a bath according to the project or on the online calculator, of which there are many on the websites of any construction company. It is impossible to carry out a correctly drawn up project on your own. You can entrust this part to specialists. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the structural features, as for the timber it should be selected so that there are few joints on the walls. But when buying, it is better to take a small stock (2-3 bars). When building with your own hands, you can accidentally make a mistake and spoil the part. But you should not worry about spoiled lumber, it will go to window or doorways, and other small parts.

The main stages of the installation of a log bath

The entire installation of a bath from a bar takes place in several main stages: installation of the foundation for the bath, laying the first crown, laying the walls, installing the roof (rough or final). Let's dwell on each one in more detail.

Installation of the foundation for a bath from a bar

Since the timber bath is a lightweight design, the foundation is either tape or columnar. In any case, the markings are pre-made around the entire perimeter.

You can read more about installing the foundation for a bath in this article.

Any of the foundations must be additionally reinforced with reinforcement. It is later used to attach the crown.

Installation of the first crown under a log bath

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof between it and the foundation. It is best to use a coating based bituminous mastic... It is easy to apply and dries quickly. After that, the top of the foundation is covered with roofing material in 2 layers. Two rows of small stacks are laid on the strip foundation, only after that they begin to install the first crown.

The first crown is laid a bar of a larger section and preferably made of moisture-resistant wood, for example, larch or aspen. You need to lay the crown exactly in level. if you skip the curvatures, the entire masonry will "creep" in the future. It is not necessary to bind the lower crown to the foundation, since further pressure from the structure will not allow it to move. But for greater confidence, you can tie it in several places with a knitting wire to the reinforcement. But if you want to dismantle lower part it will be problematic over time.

Before laying, the lower crown must be treated with deep penetration antiseptics, for example, Senezh. Grandfather's method lube oil treatment is also fine. Only after laying the first crown can you correctly proceed to the walls.

Beam laying - the traditional way on dowels

The easiest way is to lay profiled timber. Its lock connection is tightly connected, and the elements are folded like children's designer... You can connect the timber to each other with iron or wooden pins. It is better to use wooden ones, since when dry, the iron pins become visible and the structure looks unsightly.

The pins are fastened by drilling holes with a step of 1-1.5 m. You need to drill the bar so that the first bar is drilled through, and the second only half. The dowels are driven into the lower beam, and the upper one is simply put on them. The dowels of each subsequent row should not be located one above the other.

Jute insulation is laid between the timber. You can use any other, but in practice, jute tape has shown itself to be better than others. So the walls are assembled link by link. The two upper beams do not need to be fastened with dowels, since after assembling the box, they will have to be temporarily dismantled for installation beams.

Door and window openings in the bath for shrinkage can be completely not laid out after shrinkage, they are sawn through with a saw.

The final stage in the construction of the bath will be the laying of a finishing or rough roof. If the bath is assembled for shrinkage, then the rough roof is laid for a year and only then the final one is mounted. For this, the upper row of the timber is covered with boards 50-60 mm wide and closed with roofing material and slate. Everything Finishing work also begin to perform after complete shrinkage.

For a bath from a chamber-drying bar, a finishing roof is mounted, drain sewerage Wastewater, drain ventilation system and interior decoration. We will talk more about all these stages in the following articles.

You can do the construction of a bath with your own hands in 1-2 months, but despite the simplicity, a bar of especially natural moisture, 4 or 6 m long, is heavy, so it is difficult to cope with the work alone, look for an assistant.