How to process a log house after grinding - means of protecting a wooden house. Processing of a modern log house from logs

The rounded log, as a building material, has a lot of advantages, but it is not without some disadvantages. Knowing about them and understanding what wood processing needs to be done, you can ensure that the log house can stand safe and sound for several hundred years.

Factors against which the log must be protected

The natural origin of the log and the method of processing its surface formed the following disadvantages:

The chemical industry has already responded to all these challenges by developing special products for treating logs. By choosing the necessary moisture-proof, fire-retardant and bio-protective compounds and following the algorithm for processing a log house or each log, you can minimize all of the above risks.

The use of universal means that can protect against several potential dangers at once is not welcomed by professionals. Like everything universal, such compositions have minimal performance indicators in solving each highly specialized task.

Rules for processing walls made of rounded logs with protective compounds

Before the protective agents are applied to the surface of the logs, you need to wait until the natural moisture is completely removed from the wood. A dried tree better perceives protective natural or chemicals, allowing you to achieve greater efficiency from their application.

If the house is recently assembled, then the surface of the walls does not need to be sanded before applying protective agents. If it is necessary to process the walls that have already stood for some time, then it will be necessary to remove the roughness on the surface of the logs and traces of mold, decay or pollution by grinding. Then the ends are treated with a vaporizing antiseptic and oil paint or slaked lime mixed with a solution of manganese.

Funds are applied to the rounded log in the following sequence:

Antiseptic.
Moisture protective composition.
Flame retardant.

This sequence was not chosen by chance. Mold and moisture can come from inside the wood, so you need the deepest possible impregnation by special means to create a barrier. Ignition most often starts from contact with the outer part of the log, so it is important to protect the surface here.

Other compositions that can be used to treat log walls

Doubts about decorating (and protecting) rounded logs with paint have many specialists in modern housing construction. Hiding the natural beauty of the wood texture under a polymer film would be unwise.

Therefore, for those who want to maintain the smoothness and flawlessness of the treated surface of the logs, varnishes or glazing compounds are intended. Varnish (especially if it is frost-resistant) can also be considered protection, because it is a barrier against ultraviolet radiation and pollution.

Sometimes, after treatment with an antiseptic, moisture protection and fire retardant, a preservative layer is also applied. It is designed to extend the effect of these protective measures for as long as possible.

A processed house will last for several centuries

If you want to live in a house that long time will keep appearance and functionality, then you should contact the builders who process the log properly. Digging Eco-Tech pays serious attention to the issue of treating walls with protective compounds.

When building a house from cylindering, all logs must pass necessary processing protective compounds.

It is troublesome to handle logs yourself, besides skills, you need special brushes, spatulas and spray guns and knowledge of the algorithm for applying funds. It would be wiser to order the construction of a house with the obligatory processing of logs.

The ends are the most vulnerable places of the logs, as the wood fibers remain completely open and more than other areas are exposed to the negative effects of weather factors. The processes of moistening and rapid evaporation of moisture lead to the formation of cracks at the ends, as a result, the logs can crack, which has a very bad effect on strength wooden structure. To prevent the development of negative processes, the processing of the ends of the logs of the log house from rounded logs with special antiseptic agents will help. If done in a timely manner protective treatment, the wood dries evenly, which has a positive effect on the appearance of the logs and the log house as a whole.

The need for processing the ends becomes obvious if you look at an untreated log that has lain on the street for several years, the ends of which have lost their natural color and darkened, become covered with cracks, fungus and mold have appeared on them.

This happens because the open ends actively absorb moisture, which then quickly evaporates, and the loose wood structure becomes a haven for microorganisms and insects.

Through the end and side surfaces of the logs, moisture evaporates at different rates. Evaporation of moisture through the ends occurs much faster, which leads to the formation of cracks and deformation of the crowns.

Painting the ends of the log house contributes to the uniform drying of the logs, since the rate of evaporation through the painted surface slows down, and, accordingly, the process of cracking stops.

The first processing of the ends must be carried out immediately after the construction log house. But since in the first years after construction there is an active process of shrinkage of the log house, it is necessary to treat the ends with a tool that does not interfere with the natural shrinkage processes occurring in the wood.

Must have the following characteristics:

do not interfere with the evaporation of moisture from the logs through the ends along the longitudinal fibers;
do not extinguish the processes of removing moisture along the transverse fibers;
do not interfere with the removal of moisture from the surface.
protect the tree from exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
prevent decay processes.

Lime is the traditional end face treatment. It is often used today for this purpose. Lime is a natural antiseptic that protects wood from decay and UV rays. However, the duration of this remedy is very short, since the first rain will completely wash away the lime, and the ends will be left without protection.

Knowing this, many owners wooden houses use PVA glue or acrylic varnish for processing the ends. But the effectiveness of these products is also questionable, since they form a film on the surface that prevents the evaporation of moisture and interferes with the full air exchange of wood.

To ensure their effective protection? At present, Russian and foreign manufacturers a lot of impregnations are produced for processing the ends. Among domestic antiseptics, three agents are recognized as the best:

Biotor.

The tool has good penetrating power. The antiseptic is absorbed into the wood to a depth of several centimeters, forming on the surface protective layer breathable and water repellent. The coating helps to remove excess moisture from the wood, prevents the development of putrefactive processes, reduces the depth and number of end cracks. The antiseptic does not lose its protective properties for several years.

The product does not contain solvents and does not emit odor, tolerates frost well and has fire retardant properties. For ease of application and control of treated areas, the antiseptic slightly changes the color of the tree.

The tool provides protection of the ends from biological damage by microorganisms and insects, prevents the formation of fungus and mold and prevents decay.

The antiseptic creates elastic at the ends of the logs protective film, which does not let moisture in, which prevents the accumulation of excess moisture in the wood fibers. At the same time, the coating has vapor permeability, therefore it does not interfere with the air exchange processes occurring in the wood.

This tool does not affect the aesthetic characteristics of the log house, since the antiseptic retains the natural color and texture of the wood.

Biotor

It has the same characteristics as those listed above. Impregnation protects the ends of logs and beams, creating a waterproof transparent coating on the surface, which prevents rotting and cracking of the ends, and also reduces existing cracks. The elastic film also makes it possible to reduce the linear deformation of the tree that occurs during the shrinkage period.

In order to provide a wooden house or a bath with good and durable protection, it is necessary to adhere to a certain order of work. Before treating the ends with an antiseptic, it is necessary to perform a number of mandatory operations.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Log trimming. This operation consists in cutting off the protruding parts of the logs. During the construction of a house from the CB, the size of the logs is not regulated. After construction, the length of the logs in the cuts is rarely the same, and the ends, as a rule, are also not perfectly even. The formation of a neat and even vertical plane is done after construction. The protruding ends are cut with an electric or chainsaw.
Next, the ends of the log house are polished. With the help of grinding, the surface is prepared for antiseptic treatment. After grinding, the absorbency of wood increases, the ends absorb the antiseptic better and deeper, which ultimately increases the duration of the protective treatment.

At the first stage, a rough surface treatment is performed with a grinder with a coarse abrasive. Then the ends are polished with an emery nozzle of a finer fraction. Processing must be carried out until a layer of intact and clean wood appears.

Can only be done in dry weather. It is possible to process only completely dried logs, the moisture content of which does not exceed 20%. When sanding damp wood, villi are formed, which do not allow the surface to be smooth and even.

Protective treatment of the ends with an antiseptic. The ends are processed with a wide brush at least three times. Impregnation is applied in a plentiful layer. After the first layer has completely dried (about a day), the second layer is applied, and then after 24 hours the third layer.
Sealant treatment. This operation is performed after antiseptic treatment to create a durable moisture-repellent coating on the ends that prevents excessive moisture in the wood. For these purposes, it is recommended to use special acrylic sealants.

End processing after shrinkage

After the initial shrinkage of the log house, approximately 12 months after construction, the ends are painted with a product that creates a strong protective film on the surface. It can be either drying oil or paint containing oil or wax.

Antiseptic treatment is necessary in any case, even if it is further assumed

Preferring everything wooden housing construction, the owner must not forget that wood is subject to all kinds of destructive actions both from nature - fungus, mold, and the actions of biological species - beetles, moths, and so on. Applying protection chemical property and special purpose, it is possible to achieve an increase in the duration and operation wooden frame baths or residential buildings. It is impossible to do without such an important action as treating logs with an antiseptic, below recommendations will be given on some of their types.

The Importance of Staged Processing

In free sale there are compositions of several purposes. They may be good, but as practice shows, when mixed, the components cannot create a sufficient effect to protect the wood. This can be facilitated by many factors, both weather and chemical.

For example, the sun can bring into activity one component and at the same time weaken the action of another. Frost, on the contrary, will slow down all active components. And if the work on laying the coating was done superficially or incorrectly, you should not expect protection from him.

Main stages

First, the processing of logs begins with the cleaning stage:

It is better to do this after the impregnation is completed. Then not only heating is welcome, but also steam.

You need to use brushes and hard brushes for work. Movement should not be hasty. The time for absorption and drying of the layers is given at least a day. Thus, the question is solved how to process a log for a log house.

Also, wood can be coated with compounds long before it is assembled, but in this case, storage must be at a height, otherwise the washed-out compounds will not last long if the logs are not covered with something.

A new word - protection against aging

More recently, the manufacturer has proposed new version protection of decorative wood - from aging. Thus, a rounded log, and not only it, has a chance to stand in nice view longer than prescribed.

These funds have earned approval among the owners of private houses, and it is not difficult to choose, guided by the table, the right one, specifically for specific processing. They are not without other qualities:

Minimum expense. Of course, it will not be possible to save money if the dose prescribed by the annotation is halved - this completely rejects the idea of impregnation, but the indicated amount is more than enough for the selected area.
All compounds have a high penetrating ability into the structure of the tree, regardless of what quality it is - porous, smooth, etc.
Does not seal the log's natural breathing passages. By the way, you need to take into account that the ends of the logs are not covered with any compositions - this natural channels and they must be clean.
Harmless to humans and pets.
The release form allows you to properly dose and use the formulations without involving other containers for this.
Many of them are made with the addition of wax and oils, which allows not only to impregnate the wood, but also to polish it.

It also becomes clear that if the composition has such a quality as anti-aging, then its appearance is provided for at least 15 years. The processing of a log house from a rounded log requires this, because a beautiful appearance should please its owners for as long as possible.

Bath - a special room for impregnation

If the master's bath is also made of beautiful or wild logs, then it needs no less protection. The difficulty of this lies only in the fact that this is a room where heavy chemistry cannot be used.

Only natural ingredients, or those recommended by the manufacturer, will do. Today there are many of them, but it is worth noting two of them:

Senezh. Such a composition is marked as intended exclusively for baths and saunas. This does not prevent its use for other premises, but only creates a kind of advertising - if it can be used even in baths, then it is also suitable for living quarters. When choosing Senezh for a bath, you need to take into account that there are different types for different protection.
Aquatex. The name itself is related to water, which means that it will be correct to use it for a bath. In addition, such compositions can have a beneficial effect on the external data of wood - in some cases, Aquatex decorates wood under valuable species.

This is far from complete list presented goods on the market of chemical products in relation to wood, but popular. Using these chemicals, the owner of a wooden dwelling or bath, decorative or not, is guaranteed to receive all kinds of protection for his offspring. And How important condition without harm to yourself and others. Good luck with your choice!

Is it necessary to protect the bath with an antiseptic?
Wood is one of the most common materials in the construction of baths. However, under the influence of negative external factors, it not only loses its original appearance, but is also affected by fungus and various tree insects. Favorable conditions for the growth of the fungus creates high humidity, condensation, temperature fluctuations.
Treatment of the bath with an antiseptic is an indispensable condition for its durability. Many residents of wooden houses or owners of baths are faced with the problem of how to properly protect the tree from which they are made with antiseptics.
To do this, you need to read the instructions written on the packages of these products. In addition, sellers in stores will always help you and tell you for what purpose this or that antiseptic is needed.
To begin with, you need to understand that some products are suitable for processing outside, on the street, where there is exposure to the sun, rain, wind, dust, birds. And others - for processing inside, where the walls are exposed to hot or cold water. Constant humidity and high temperatures quickly destroy the tree.

Log baths are always natural and beautiful, aesthetically pleasing and environmentally friendly, and also warm. For their construction, of course, logs are needed, which must be able to be processed correctly so that your bathhouse stands as long as possible. Our article will tell you how to process bath logs.

Prepared wood is subjected to two mandatory operations: debarking and sharpening. Debarking is the removal of bark from a log, it is usually done without any mechanized tool, by hand, but only on condition that the amount of work is small. Just peel off the top dark bark until you reach the light wood. When you debark, you will notice that there are not very large, but noticeable areas of bast left on the log, or the so-called “underbark” (a fresh layer of tree bark that is separated from the trunk itself). This layer darkens as it dries, and the wood usually becomes variegated in color, so characteristic of unplaned logs. If, during debarking, the fibrous composition (fibrous structure) of the tree is not damaged, but the bast is subject to rotting, it is because of this that it is necessary that the log must go to the fence.
Remove the underbark with an electric planer (about 0.5-1 cm). Guide the tool along the length of the log. Try to remove an even layer the first time, otherwise the wood will have technical creases. This will not affect the quality of the building material, but over time it will manifest itself in the unaesthetic appearance of the logs - the creases will darken even if you cover them with an antiseptic and special impregnation. The result of correctly performed actions will be a beautiful, natural golden hue log, completely peeled of the bast.

Dry the logs. This can be done in natural conditions (but taking into account the climatic conditions of the country - as a rule, few people decide to do this) or use heat chambers where the tree is kept for up to 5 days. An incompletely dried tree will crack along the length over time, so do not neglect this way of protecting your future bath.

Wood, especially treated wood, is susceptible to the action of mold fungi, insects (for example, bark beetles), as well as to the action of various natural factors. You have the right to decide what lifespan to assign to your bath, processing logs with chemical protective equipment. Use modern antiseptics, insect repellents and wood-staining fungus (in the event that you are going to paint the bath).

Undoubtedly, traditional technology manual felling has proven itself with the best side: in almost any settlement you can find wooden houses that are fifty, seventy, or even a hundred years old. But note that these perfectly preserved buildings were built not by modern woodcutters, but by old masters - completely different people of a different mentality from a completely different time. How long a house made by a team of modern craftsmen-shabashniki will stand - no one knows; no one can predict how its walls will look in three to five years.

Turning to the team of craftsmen, be sure to carefully consider those log cabins that the team is currently working on and turn your

close attention to the following:

gaps between the crowns; the cleanliness of the processing of cups and interveinal grooves; the absence of a large variation in the diameters of the logs of one log house; the number of potentially problematic logs in the assembled log cabins (crooked, significant radial cracks); the attitude of master cutters to their product (an abundance of dirt on logs is not just a consequence of carelessness, it is evidence that workers will easily assemble your log house from half-rotten, crooked logs).

Modern technologies, as a result of their implementation, have a significant weakening of the dependence of the quality of the final result on the skill of workers. In the case of mechanized processing, the quality is more dependent on the well-established production and technological capabilities of the equipment.

Therefore, an individual developer, turning to a woodworking shop, should first of all pay attention to:

the presence of mechanization in the performance of the entire cycle of work; feedback on already completed orders from previous customers; availability and accessibility of a sorted raw material base; terms of production of log cabins (a long production time must necessarily alert the customer, because it is the result of obvious or hidden problems in technological process); technological capabilities of the equipment - ask, for example, whether it is possible to round logs along the generatrix of the cone ("carrot"); age and technical condition production base (old and exhausted machines are unlikely to lead to a quality result).

Methods of harvesting wood for the construction of a house or a bath.

When harvesting wood, the trunk of a sawn tree is cut into equal segments of approximately 6 meters in length. The thickest log, the butt, is called the "first cut". The next section of the trunk is the second cut. Etc. It is noteworthy that the closer the cut is to the top of the trunk, the stronger the taper of the log is observed. The first cut is practically a cylinder.
The structure of wood is heterogeneous along the radius of the trunk. The densest layer is the outer outer layer 1-2 cm thick, located directly under the bark. If this layer is damaged, when external environment begins to contact the surface of the inner layers of wood, the log becomes susceptible to decay and subsequent destruction.

There are differences in wood different breeds. So, spruce wood is richly and evenly saturated with resin from the very early age tree; pine wood is sufficiently saturated with resin only in adulthood. Moreover, it is predominantly the outer layers that are saturated. Therefore, when using logs of small diameter (up to 26 cm), it is more reasonable to use spruce, as it is more durable, because. pine at the age when the first cut does not exceed 26 cm in diameter is not yet sufficiently impregnated with resins and, accordingly, is less durable.

On the other hand, the abundant saturation of mature pine wood with resins can do a poor job in rooms such as saunas or baths. from heat and high humidity wood begins to "cry", losing resinous substances and soiling the surface of the log. In the case of using pine wood for hot visits, it is considered mandatory to inner lining clapboard, for spruce log cabins this operation is redundant.

One of the main disadvantages of rounded logs is precisely the short service life due to susceptibility to decay: the removed dense layer exposes the inner surface of the log, which is easily subject to destructive processes. However, when using logs of the first cut, this accusation has no grounds: the original log is an almost perfect cylinder, and by peeling off the bark layer and a few millimeters of the underlying layer, the cylinder machine does not at all turn the log into a "short-lived beautiful toy".

Chopped or rounded house - which is better and why?

As illustrations of the traditional process, we use photographs that we were kindly allowed to take at the work site of a team of wood-cutting masters.

The opponent of classical technology is the mechanized processing workshop. A self-made rounding machine allows you to process logs up to 10 meters long and up to 60 cm in diameter. Carrot rounding is possible.

Manual felling is cheaper, so a hand-cut log cabin is more profitable than a log cabin
In our particular case, a team of craftsmen estimates their work at 5,000 rubles per cubic meter of treated wood. Log cabins from the mechanized woodworking shop will cost the buyer 5,500 rubles per cubic meter plus free shipping within a radius of 50 km from the workshop.

A team of craftsmen consists of 8 people: 2 planers clean the log from the bark, 2 planers cylinder the log with electric planers, 2 cup-makers cut down the cups, 2 auxiliary workers are on the hook. Such a team adds an average of 2-4 logs to the log house per shift. A log cabin of 12 crowns of a five-wall bath will be ready no earlier than a month.

In a mechanized workshop, a team of 4 people will assemble such a log house in less than a week.

Whether your lost time is worth the illusory gain of 5% of the final cost is up to you to decide.

In traditional felling, the manual adjustment of each log will eventually lead to a warmer log house.

Perhaps this position is true, but only in the case when a house or a bathhouse is cut down for themselves. A team of craftsmen to order is forced to use each harvested log, as a result, crooked, inconsistent, and other defective logs get into the log house.

A warped log laid in a frame leads to deformation of the entire wall, in addition, its behavior in the future, when dried logs lose 5-8% in diameter, is absolutely unpredictable: huge gaps can form, an initially warped log will most likely warp even more and deforms the entire frame.

The inconsistency does not allow you to accurately and equally cut grooves and cups. The ideal cup is cut to half the diameter of the stacked log. And what kind of ideal cup can we talk about if a log with a diameter of 40 cm fits on a log with a diameter of 20 centimeters? Indeed, in this case, the "ideal cup" will simply cut the lower crown in half.

And in general, what kind of accuracy are we talking about if you can easily stick your finger into the holes between the crowns? No matter how happy the developer, who bought such a traditional log house cheaply, stuffed insulation into it, the wind will still blow through the walls of such a log house.

In the workshop of mechanized processing, the listed problems simply do not arise:

There is no discord, because logs are initially sorted by diameter, exactly 28 cm blanks are placed in the ordered log house from 28 cm logs - loading a forty-centimeter log into the machine to get a 28-cm blank is not profitable for the manufacturer himself. Curved logs are rejected initially - they simply cannot be rounded: the beats of such a workpiece will break the machine. Mezhventsovye grooves are also selected on the machine, their depth is calculated based on the diameter of the logs. Therefore, there are simply no fluctuations in this parameter in log cabins made of logs. And if there is, this marriage is clearly evident even to an inexperienced buyer.

Features in the use of a log house in construction.

It is customary to assemble a log house from winter-cut logs that have not been dried. In the process of wood drying, the log loses 5-5% of its diameter. Uneven drying results in radial cracks, often splitting the log in half. Classical technology in no way protects the log house from such destruction.

The figure shows how radial cracks appear on the logs of the assembled log house already in the process of control assembly due to uneven shrinkage of the tree.

In rounded logs, a special compensation groove is cut to protect the log from radial splitting from uneven shrinkage. It is cut from the side of the log opposite the cup to the depth of the radius.

In no case should the compensation groove be visible from the street and not come into contact with the external environment - usually the surface of the groove is covered with sponges of the interventional groove.

Although the expansion slot cannot withstand the radial cracking of logs, it reliably protects the log from splitting in half.

Another, most often recalled sin of log cabins from rounded logs is the destruction of a dense subcortical layer during the rounding process, which is resistant to decay and infection by mold and fungus.

But, as mentioned above, these accusations make sense only in relation to logs from young pines of small (up to 24..26 cm) diameter: logs of larger diameter are carefully sorted, moreover, their resin content is more than enough to resist any infection. .

Moreover, the woodworking equipment of a modern mechanized shop allows rounding logs "under the carrot", i.e. maintain the taper of the original workpiece. This technological complication satisfies the needs of the most demanding customer and allows building log cabins from logs of both small and very large diameters, guaranteeing their long service life, high build quality that does not change over time, and protection of wood from pathogenic infections.

All photos from the article

During operation, any wooden house must withstand the impact of a number of climatic factors without consequences, but subject to its reliable protection. Impregnation of the walls of the log house with an antiseptic is a great way to ensure it, protecting it from decay, and the wood will become unattractive for pests.

Do logs need additional protection?

When choosing a log for a log house, you need to think in advance about its durability.

The fact is that different ways treatments greatly affect the resistance of wood to decay:

rounded logs are especially susceptible to moisture, compared to other types of round logs, their natural protection is practically reduced to nothing during processing. The fact is that during calibration, not only the bark is removed from the trunk, but also a thick layer of dense wood;

Note! Sometimes when processing side surface even the core of the trunk comes out. In this case, the log has practically no natural protection, so impregnation is simply necessary, and as deep as possible.

but they lose only the bark, the protective layer of very hard wood remains. Impregnation is also needed here, but the durability of a log house made of such material will be higher. The only thing that can confuse is the high price of debarked round timber compared to round timber;

occupy an intermediate position between debarked and rounded.

Impregnation of wood with antiseptics not only provides protection against decay and insects, but also shows the texture of the wood. So you can apply a layer of clear varnish on top, and the wooden surface will already look good.

You can find recommendations for a log house not to use impregnations at all, they say the round timber will be perfectly preserved anyway. But it is better to process the wood, at least then, in order to preserve its appearance, and the protection will be more reliable.

How to process logs

Selection of special formulations for processing wooden surfaces very wide. For the most part, all popular antiseptics give good protection from moisture and insects, the only thing is not to confuse the means for external processing and internal processing. Indoors, compositions are usually used that do not then emit substances harmful to humans.

Internal processing of log cabins

Log processing with inside is also necessary, although the operating conditions will be more gentle than outside, but the humidity level can vary over a wide range, and you should not forget about insects.

As for the types of agents used, it is possible to distinguish such types of solutions as:

easily washable Salt solution is an example. It's too much a budget option, it can only be recommended for processing auxiliary buildings, and then as a temporary measure;

penetrating - processing a rounded log with such a composition guarantees the penetration of the antiseptic to a decent depth (depending on the type of wood, but it will reach a depth of 5-7 mm in most cases). They do not wash out over time, and they also allow the wood to breathe;
film-forming- are used rather to decorate the surface of the tree, the liquid does not penetrate deep into the tree. Such compounds are applied after impregnation with an antiseptic to give the desired shade to the tree.

For the treatment of wooden surfaces inside the house, for example, SenezhAkvadecor can be used. It does not stain the surface of the wood, it is absorbed deeply enough and does not create an impermeable layer on the surface after drying, so that rotting from the inside does not threaten the logs.

The processing of the log house after installation from a log includes the impregnation of the truss frames, as well as the elements wooden floors. Since they will not be visible, it can be advised to use compositions with a coloring property. This is done so that the treated and untreated area can be clearly distinguished.

Antiseptics can stain wood in green tint, but the shade of the flame retardant-treated surface is reddish. Of course, such compositions are not suitable for processing the floor or ceiling.

Processing outside

Processing a log house from a log with protective compounds from the outside gives much more room for creativity. At the same time, antiseptics can be used both as a prophylactic and for the conservation of already existing defects.

Note! Treatment with a potent compound will allow you to freeze the development of rot in wood, but there is a limit to everything. If the log is badly affected, then no impregnation will help.

With external processing, several tasks will have to be solved:

carefully caulk cracks and cracks in the logs;
the ends of the logs are also processed (a separate composition is used);
only after that you can proceed to grinding the wall and applying an antiseptic.

Wide and deep cracks in the logs are not uncommon, because of them moisture and insects can easily get to the especially vulnerable central part of the round timber.

Fortunately, sealing cracks can be done by hand, for this you will need:

clean the crack from dust and dirt;
push the sealing material inside (there are special cords made of synthetic materials). You can also use ordinary natural fabric;

then fill the rest of the crack with sealant, it is quite elastic, so that when the house settles, it will still provide reliable connection edges.

The question of how to process the ends of the logs is especially important because it is through the ends that the accelerated loss of moisture occurs by the log. This is what causes cracks. In addition, it is easier for moisture and insects to penetrate through the ends.

Note! For processing the end face of the log are used special formulations slowing down the evaporation of moisture.

Usually the problem of how to process log cuts is solved at the stage of harvesting round timber, but it’s better to play it safe and process them yourself again.

To do this, you can use both folk and purchased means:

the simplest recipe can be considered the application of paraffin, this “chemical dead man” is guaranteed not to let moisture in;

you can also use purchased compositions, the same "Senezh TOR" does not contain substances harmful to humans, and the treatment of logs with an antiseptic from the ends normalizes the shrinkage of the log in the transverse and longitudinal direction.

Does a chopped bath need processing

If there are no particular problems with the question of how to process a log house from a log from the outside, then in the case of wooden bath must take into account the specifics of its work. Experts are still inclined to believe that impregnation with an antiseptic from the inside is not necessary.

At the same time, it is desirable as building material use barked or planed logs with a sufficiently high natural protection (meaning the content of resinous substances). It is only necessary to take into account that the use of tree species with a high resin content is unacceptable, because of the high temperature the walls will be constantly sticky.

In principle, the instruction allows the processing of a chopped bath from the inside, but with a number of reservations:

it is forbidden to use compounds that, under the action of high temperature, emit harmful substances(that is, the lion's share of antiseptics immediately disappears);
wood must remain breathable.

If the problem of how to process the logs inside the bath is perplexing, then you can try to limit yourself to only external processing. If inside the wood darkens a little after some time, then you can simply sand the logs with a petal circle, for a few years a pleasant shade natural wood guaranteed.

Note! Various folk remedies e.g. based on beeswax, oil, resin, etc. are not suitable for internal processing baths just because of their low resistance to high temperatures.

If the bath is built from inexpensive calibrated round timber, then external processing is required. Considering that harmful substances have an unpleasant property to seep through wood and enter the air (especially at high temperatures), the product must be 100% harmless.

In principle, you can also purchase logs already impregnated with a protective composition, but the question of how it is better to process a rounded log in a bath is still better to decide for yourself. The fact is that with factory impregnation, they do not particularly think about the environmental friendliness of the antiseptic.

Summarizing

Processing round timber is a good way to increase its durability, and the appearance will remain for a long time. In this case, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances, namely: to select individual compositions for internal and exterior finish, competently process the ends of the logs and seal the cracks. Subject to these conditions, treatment with an antiseptic becomes absolutely harmless to humans and prolongs the life of a chopped house.

The video in this article describes the external processing of the log house.