How to caulk a log house with linen tow. Caulking log house with moss: what is better than jute, moss or tow - reviews

One of the main measures for warming a bath from a log house is caulking (caulking). Caulking is a clogging of the gaps between the log crowns with environmentally friendly insulating materials. In this article, we are talking about how to make a log cabin caulk on your own and what materials and tools will be required for this.

Article
Video

The purpose of the log caulk

After all the crowns of the bath from the log house are laid, inserted and the roof is closed, it is necessary to proceed to the process. They insulated the log house from ancient times, and this process practically unchanged to today. The only thing that has changed is the materials and tools for caulking (we will talk about them a little later).

Caulking a log house is necessary for the following reasons:

For well-insulated, it will take less time to warm up the steam room and other rooms
The log house tends to dry out, as a result of which gaps are formed in the design of the bath, which will need to be hammered
If heat comes out of the bath, condensation forms outside the log house, which will cause the log house to rot.
A well-insulated sauna will require less fuel (coal, gas, wood or even electricity) to heat.

As you can see, caulking a log house is a very serious and at the same time useful event.

When do you need to caulk a log house?

As we know, it takes at least one year to shrink a log building. Based on this, there is a lot of disagreement about the time of caulking a log house.

The first caulking of the log house must be carried out immediately after laying all the crowns and covering the roof.

The second caulking of the log house is carried out after the bathhouse partially shrinks (about a year later). Despite the fact that during the first caulking all the gaps will be tightly clogged, in a year there will be a place for another warming of the bath in the interventional cracks.

Well, the last caulk of the log house should be carried out at the moment when the bath is completely seated, no later than after 5 years.

We draw your attention to the fact that do-it-yourself caulking of a log house must be carried out as with outside baths, and from the inside. Another important point: during high-quality caulking, the bath can rise by about 7-10 cm, so it’s better not to fix it with the roof so that it doesn’t deform during this time.

Materials for caulking a log house

To date, for caulking a log house with your own hands, you can use moss, tow, special sealant, jute and lnovatin. Let's take a quick look at the benefits of each material.

Moss

Previously, the log house was caulked with moss. This material for caulking is still used by some builders, but most experts prefer more modern materials.

The advantage of moss is that it is 100% environmentally friendly material that has antimicrobial properties and at the same time has high durability.

The disadvantage of caulking a log house with moss is the high cost of this insulation.

Moss for caulking should not be too dry, but at the same time, it should not be too wet.

Tow is also often used for log caulking, but this material is not recommended. Firstly, caulking a log house with tow is a very laborious process. Secondly, tow absorbs moisture, so after a few seasons it can begin to rot, thereby damaging the crowns of the log house. Thirdly, it is very difficult to pick out a rotten tow from the interventional cracks, especially since repeated caulking is not a very pleasant process. And fourthly, tow is a delicacy for moths.

Jute is an environmentally friendly material plant origin. It is often used for caulking a log house with your own hands, because. this material has the following advantages:

The material has high strength
Jute practically does not absorb water, and therefore does not rot.
Jute has good thermal insulation properties

We draw your attention to the fact that often in construction stores instead of jute they offer an analogue - jute felt. We do not recommend using jute felt for caulking a log house, because. this material has a share of flax, and this significantly reduces the strength and increases the hygroscopic properties of the material.

The caulking of the log house with jute is carried out during the erection of the structure from the log house. The material is laid on top of the crowns and fastened with a construction stapler.

Lnovatin is also used for log caulking. This material consists of compacted linen dust, which is made in long ribbons. Lnovatin, like jute, has high strength and heat-insulating properties.

sealant

Actively gaining popularity and special sealants for caulking a log house. They are most often used in conjunction with jute. Exists different kinds sealants depending on the width of the cracks. We draw your attention to the fact that it is advisable to use the sealant together with jute or flax, this will make the thermal insulation of the bath more effective.

To date, the following set of tools is used for caulking a log house with their own hands:

caulking
Curved caulk (requires skill to work, but more effective)
Road worker (used with a caulk)
Caulker (narrower, in some places it is more convenient to work with it)
Mallet (used to drive caulk into cracks)

It is recommended to use soft caulks (for example, made of wood), because. they will not damage the surface of the log house. The only problem is that soft caulking is more difficult to use, but with a few warmings you will definitely adapt to this tool.

Do-it-yourself log house caulking technology

Do-it-yourself caulking technology is quite complicated, although you can’t say this from the outside. As we said earlier, when caulking a log house, the structure becomes 7-10 cm higher, so you need to caulk evenly and correctly.

You should know that no finishing measures should be carried out before caulking the log house, because. during the lifting of the structure, they will immediately be damaged.

The correct caulking of the log house implies the warming of the interventional space in tiers (from the bottom to the top). First, we caulk the lowest joint (between the first and second crown). This must be done around the perimeter, starting from one corner and ending with it. As soon as the tier is insulated, you need to move to the overlying crown.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is extremely forbidden to carry out isolated caulking (for example, only one wall), because. the construction of the log house can noticeably warp.

It should be noted that experienced builders can level a skewed log house using only caulking.

When caulking a log house, it is necessary to carefully hammer in the insulation at the corners, because. these nodes need it the most (due to the presence of locks and complex grooves).

There are two ways to caulk a log house with your own hands: “stretched” and “set”. The first method is used if the gaps between the crowns are small, respectively, the second is intended for wide gaps. Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

For caulking a “stretched” log house, you will need a strand of insulating material for the length of the entire gap. First, you need to tamp one side of the strand into the gap, then bend the other side (as shown in the picture) and carefully hammer it with a caulk or caulk.

This method of caulking a log house with your own hands requires much more insulation material, but it better insulates the bath from the log house. Caulking technology is different: a strand with a thickness of at least 15 mm is prepared. Next, the strands must be typed into loops and alternately hammer each loop into the gap (so that the strand goes across the gap, as shown in the picture). It is necessary to hammer the strand with the help of a split caulk, knocking the material from above, and then from below. After the strand is completely crammed into the slots, it is recommended to make a final compaction using a road builder.

High-quality caulking is one of the most important guarantees of its reliable thermal insulation. It is highly not recommended to neglect this process, because the comfort and healthy microclimate of the steam room is at stake. But how to properly caulk a log house in order to avoid even the likelihood of voids that can negate all the thermal properties of the structure? Let's take a closer look at this later: we will find out the features of materials for protecting the bath - jute, tow and moss, get acquainted with the rules and technologies of caulking, and also watch a video of direct work with a log house.

Materials for caulking

Moss, tow and jute are considered traditional materials for caulking a bath from a bar. Let's outline the main features of each of them.

Moss. Environmentally friendly raw materials with high antiseptic qualities. Advantages: minimal thermal conductivity, high resistance to temperature extremes, low cost. Disadvantages: the need for a long preparation for work. Purchased moss must be moistened before laying, and then dried. If you personally collect the material, it must be carefully sorted out to remove debris and soil, and also dried.

Advice. It is not necessary to completely dry the moss, otherwise it will become brittle and completely unsuitable for caulking.

Tow. Material with a backing of soft yet durable linen fibers. Advantages: low thermal conductivity, minimal tendency to electrify, high absorbency, quick drying. Disadvantages: the complexity of laying and unaesthetic seams remaining after caulking.
Jute. Thermal insulation material made of jute wood. Advantages: high strength, minimal hygroscopicity, inertness to decay, moisture resistance, ease of installation. Disadvantages: fast caking of the material and short service life.

Materials for caulking

General rules for caulking

The main features of a caulking bath from a bar:

Caulking must be done twice: the first - either directly in the process of laying the timber, or immediately after collecting the building box, the second - after the final shrinkage of the log house, that is, after a year or two.

Advice. If you carry out caulking after the completion of the construction of the bath, do it before exterior finish object, as the sealing material will lift the log house by 5-7 cm.

Insulation must be laid on each row of timber.
The heat-insulating raw materials should protrude 5 cm beyond the boundaries of the log grooves on both sides of the log house.
Caulking must be done both from the outside and from inside bath walls.
It is necessary to process the log house in a clear sequence: first, close the outer voids around the perimeter bottom strapping, then follow the same steps from the inside of the building; then go outside again and process the second crown of the log house - repeat the procedure from the inside. In the same way, step by step, protect the entire inner and outer surfaces of the walls.

Caulking process

Caulking technologies

There are two ways of caulking a log house - "stretched" and "set".

The "stretching" technology is appropriate if the voids between the timber are very narrow - almost imperceptible. The laying of the material is carried out as follows:

form strands from a heater;
lay the resulting strands across the fibers into the voids of the log house, pushing them with a wooden spatula;
tuck the edges of the material (about 5 cm) and hammer them into the slots with a caulk.

If the voids between the rows of timber are deep and wide, it is advisable to use the "in-set" caulking technology:

form from thermal insulation material long strands of at least 15 mm in thickness and wind them into a continuous ball;
gradually unwinding the ball, fill the voids of the log house with material, compacting it with a caulk;
to get aesthetic seams, carefully walk over the material with a road builder.

Advice. Where are the gaps different size, gain the thickness of the filler by turning the strands or simply twisting them into loops. At the same time, first close the upper part of the voids, and then the lower one.

As you can see, caulking a bath is a painstaking process, the success of which depends on several factors at once: the quality of the material, the technology of its installation and the sequence of work. To cope with the task and provide a steam room good thermal insulation, carefully consider each of the indicated nuances and stock up on endurance, because caulking is not in a hurry.

How to caulk a house from a bar: video

How to caulk a bath: photo

Eco-friendly wooden buildings have a lot of advantages, but wood has the ability to dry with the formation of cracks and seasonally change geometric dimensions. In addition, all buildings shrink. As a result, gaps appear between the crowns, through which heat is blown out of the living quarters, and drafts begin to walk.

Even if external insulation is provided, caulking is required wooden house. This is an important and mandatory process, which consists in sealing the cracks that have arisen with natural or synthetic insulation.

The work is time consuming and painstaking, requiring thoroughness, accuracy and patience. In Russia, this was done by master caulkers, the features and secrets of craftsmanship were passed down from generation to generation. Over the past century, the execution technology has practically not changed. Consider how to caulk a house correctly, varieties and methods of implementation, what materials and tools will be needed for this.

Types and methods of execution

Depending on the time of the work, the following types are distinguished:

Primary, performed directly during the construction of the log house or immediately after assembly. Insulation is laid between the crowns in each row.
Intermediate. It is done approximately 6 months after the completion of construction, when the most intense shrinkage stops and the tree dries additionally. The padding of the previously laid insulation is carried out and, if necessary, the addition of material.
The third is made after 1 ... 2 years, when the construct will practically take its final position (further shrinkage will be minimal or completely stop). Material is re-laid into the gaps formed, and the worn-out material is removed.

Subject to technological process it will be enough to control the insulation every 5 years in the future, otherwise the elimination of cracks will have to be dealt with annually.

Caulking at home is performed by 2 methods:

"To the set." It is used for sealing gaps of large width and depth. The selected sealant (moss, tow, jute, hemp or tow) is twisted into strands 2 cm thick, wound into a ball and, upon further unwinding, is hammered into slots. The sizes of the slots in different places are different, therefore, for a set required thickness filler, the strands are turned and the loops are twisted.
"In stretch." In this way, the primary caulking is always performed. The material is laid on top of the lower crown, pressed down by the upper crown, folded over and hammered into the slot. When performing work after completing the assembly of the log house, heaters (preferably tape ones) are applied to the seams of the lower rows, stuffed into them along the entire length, leaving hanging edges about 5 cm wide. Then the edges are tucked, rolled into rollers and hammered into the seams. The gaps in such cases are narrow and even barely noticeable.

The choice of material than to caulk a log house

Natural heaters:

Moss, widely used by our ancestors and has not lost popularity in the villages to this day. Swamp red sphagnum moss is considered the best, forest mosses (cuckoo flax) are less commonly used. The insulation has a low thermal conductivity, well removes excess moisture, without rotting at the same time. It is durable, delays development of putrefactive microorganisms and a mold. known medicinal properties mosses. Due to its good tolerance for temperature changes, it is good for use in the construction of wooden baths.

Jute for caulking is a modern insulating material made from plants growing in tropical countries with a humid climate. It comes to us mainly from India and China. Environmentally friendly natural material with high strength and durability. It is produced in tapes of various widths, less often in individual fibers. The following varieties are on sale:

jute tow in the form of combed fibers, hard and not dense insulation, difficult to install;
linen-jute - a mixture of equal amounts of flax and jute, to protect against decay and moths, a mandatory special processing;
jute felt, a dense material with the addition of 10% (best) to 30% linen fibers, dense, flexible and resilient, but also moth-affected and absorbs water well.

Jute is perfectly compatible with wood, does not rot, retains heat well and compacts evenly. Unlike moss, it is not attractive to birds and insects. Attractive and low cost.

Hemp hemp, linen tow and a number of other materials are used less frequently.

Synthetic materials

Ready-made compounds for sealing joints are much more expensive than natural ones, which can often be prepared independently. But working with them is quite simple and convenient in execution. To reduce the amount of sealant, it is often used in conjunction with cords made from natural or synthetic cords. The cord hammered into the slot is closed with synthetic compounds.

Some compositions dry out, hardening into a hard dense mass, therefore it is recommended to use only elastic materials, for example Neomid, elastic and with good adhesion to wood.

A good choice is acrylic sealant, durable, environmentally friendly, without releasing harmful substances into the atmosphere.

All materials purchased in stores must have quality certificates.

Log Caulking Tools

WITH long time ago the following types of tools are used:

flat wooden and metal blades with a blade width of up to 10 cm and a thickness of 5 or 6 mm;
flat chisels with a blade of 60 mm and a thickness of ≤ 5 mm;
triangular caulking with longitudinal grooves along the 17 cm blade, thickness ≤ 15 mm;
crooked caulking;
road builder - a narrow and thick wedge with a width of ≤ 35 mm;
mallets.

How to properly caulk a log house

The seams must be cleaned and treated with antiseptics.
When insulating during the construction process, the insulation laid on each crown is fixed with construction stapler, while it should protrude beyond the grooves by 5 cm on both sides of the log cabins.
Caulking is carried out from the outside and inside of the building.

Work begins from below along the entire perimeter of the log house in the following sequence:

driving the outer slots of the lower crown around the entire perimeter of the building;
a similar caulk inside the building;
returning to the street with a caulk of cracks in the second crown;
caulk of the second crown from inside the house;
this order continues.

When caulking the walls separately, they will definitely have vertical deviations.

The work is carried out in sections of about 1 m, after fixing the insulation in the gap, the hanging ends are bent and tucked in. The material is tightly clogged with a mallet until it springs. Then proceed to the next section.
Particular attention is drawn to the caulk of the corners, in which, as a rule, the largest gaps.
Work is recommended to be carried out at above-zero outdoor temperatures in the range from 10 to 20 degrees.

How to caulk a log house

Most often in villages, and in our time, moss is used, processed as follows:

preliminary drying of the moss is performed;
in a bucket pure water 0.5 l of oil and 200 g are thoroughly mixed laundry soap;
dry moss is laid in the prepared solution, when wet, the fibers become elastic;
the wet strand is twisted with a roller and immediately inserted into the slot.

Along with moss, lnovatin is used - flax and jute fibers woven into a ribbon.

Application of sealant, polyurethane foam and various types polyurethane foam not recommended as this can cause condensation to build up in the joints, causing the wood to rot.

How to caulk a log house with jute? The caking inherent in jute and the higher cost compared to mosses determine its limited use in log cabins. Most often, jute is used for caulking buildings from logs and timber. Jute tapes are fast and easy to install, they prevent the wood from rotting well. Therefore, the caulking of the log house with moss is gradually being replaced by such modern materials.

Finishing a wooden house includes a number of compulsory works, among which an important part is caulked. Caulking is done several times. The first caulking is done during or immediately after the construction of the house. The second time the house is caulked after the end of shrinkage processes, which, depending on the species and moisture content of the wood, last from one to two years. In some cases, a log house requires a third caulk, which is performed 5-6 years after construction. Is it possible to caulk in winter? This question is relevant for many, since it is not always possible to perform caulking in the warm period. Let's figure out when it is better to caulk a log house: in winter or summer, and why.

Wood is a living material, it is very sensitive to weather conditions, fluctuations in temperature and air humidity lead to a change in the linear dimensions of a wooden house. Even many years after felling, natural shrinkage processes take place in the wood, the tree breathes, the fibers shrink and stretch. These processes are especially active in summer. V winter period the frame shrinks much more slowly.

Shrinkage is accompanied by deformation wooden structure. As a result, new gaps and gaps appear between the crowns of logs, often different sides houses sit unevenly, which leads to a distortion of the structure.

All the resulting flaws are eliminated with a caulk, with the help of which the cracks are removed, the structure is leveled and the house takes on the correct shape.

Please note that caulking is performed simultaneously outside and inside the house. Work starts from lower rims along the entire perimeter of the log house, the outer crown is first caulked, then it is insulated from the inside. Such a sequence of work is necessary for a uniform rise in the height of the house, which increases by 10-15 cm during caulking.

Usually caulking is done in warm time of the year. There is an opinion that caulking a log house in winter is undesirable, since shrinkage processes are slower at this time, and in spring and summer the house will sit further, new cracks will appear and will have to be re-caulked.

This is not entirely true. The first rough caulk, as a rule, is performed precisely in winter time. Winter is the best time to build a wooden house, because at low temperatures the house shrinks more evenly than during the heat. During construction, insulation is laid between the logs, and then, after the log house is placed under the roof, the hanging edges of the insulation material are hammered into the joints between the logs.

The main condition that must be met before performing the second caulking is the passage of shrinkage processes, i.e. by the time of the main caulking, the log house should already have undergone primary shrinkage. In the first year or two after construction, the house shrinks by 90% of the total shrinkage. It is very important that the timber inside is well dried out, and the moisture content of the wood is within 20%. If both conditions are met, then you can safely caulk log house in winter.

If it is assumed, then work can only be carried out at stable positive temperatures. The sealant must dry well, and this requires a certain temperature regime, which cannot be created in winter.

The weather conditions in the Moscow region are quite severe, winters are snowy and frosty, so when choosing the time for caulking, you must consider the following:

caulking can be done in frosty calm weather;
air temperature should not be lower than 10-15 degrees, more low temperatures will not allow high-quality caulking of the log house;
caulking should not be performed during a snowfall, since snow will clog into the interventional seams along with the material, which is undesirable.

If all the above conditions are met, caulking can be done in winter. But it should be noted that only specialists can perform high-quality caulking in severe weather conditions.

Winter is a great time for caulking. In winter, finishers do not have such a busy work schedule as in summer, the work will be done without haste, very carefully and accurately.

Is it possible to make caulk when it rains

In the warm season, there are also moments when caulk wooden house undesirable. For example, many people ask: is it possible to caulk in the rain? Experts do not recommend making caulking in rainy weather.

During rain, the surface of the logs and the insulation itself (jute, tow, flax, etc.) get wet. With secondary caulking, the insulation is clogged very tightly, and since it gets wet, wet material gets into the interventional seams.

Dense packing does not allow the insulation to dry quickly, respectively, in the interventional seams for some time it remains high humidity. Thus, they create optimal conditions for the appearance of mold, the development and reproduction of microorganisms and fungus, which ultimately leads to wood decay.

Professional caulking in all weather conditions

The company "Master Srubov" is ready to carry out caulking of a wooden house or bath at any time of the year. Regardless of the season, the work will be done at a high quality level. The company employs professional caulkers who have special education, experience and work skills.

Caulking any wooden bath must be carried out in two stages: after the completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, baths are used for caulking: moss, felt, tow, hemp. Readers will learn how to properly caulk a bath with their own hands, what tools are needed and the intricacies of the work, having studied the article to the end.

In any case, you will have to caulk the bath. The main thing is to do the job carefully.

When assembling the bath box, a heater is laid between each log or beam. But wood shrinks in independence chamber drying material or natural humidity. When shrinking, space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to caulk the bath for the first time to seal the seam and the second to eliminate the gaps that have formed.

It is easier to caulk a log cabin with the help of special tools: a caulk and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.

What material is better to caulk a bath?

For caulking a log cabin, a steam room uses natural heaters: moss, hemp, tow, felt. All materials are available, but each must be prepared in its own way.

Preparing moss for caulking

Seam insulation with moss traditional way used by our grandfathers. Moss can be collected independently or purchased ready-made at a hardware store.

Moss for caulking is one of the most environmentally friendly materials.

The price of moss is from 250 rubles, so it's cheaper to collect in the forest. collected moss lay out under a canopy and leave to dry for 1-2 weeks. It is necessary to mix the moss every 2-3 days so that it does not rot. Using damp moss will cause mold and wood decay. But it is necessary to monitor drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.

Moss Pros:

Profitability (you can dial for free in the forest).
Natural, which means that environmental friendliness is not violated.

The material has more disadvantages:

It becomes brittle when dry.
It is difficult to caulk a bath.
Afraid of moisture and mold.
Short-lived.
It burns well.

Choosing moss to caulk a log house is necessary only as a savings. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.

Preparation of felt for caulking

Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt may be composed of smoked fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For a bath, they choose completely natural or with a high content of wool felt. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is flammable.

Felt for bath caulking is suitable natural or with a small addition of artificial fibers.

Before work, the felt must be treated with a formalin solution, it will not allow moths to get divorced in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung out in the sun and dried thoroughly.

The main advantages of felt include:

Naturalness.
Caulking a log house is easy.

natural material afraid of moisture and rot.
Mice and birds love to use felt to build their nests, and pick the material out of the crevices in the log house.
The high price of natural insulation.

Preparing tow for bath caulking

Tow does not need to be specially prepared before work. But moths and other insects like to settle in natural material, so the tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formalin.

Tow for bath caulking can be bought in bales.

The main advantages of using tow:

Low price.
Natural material.
Ease of operation.

Afraid of moisture.
Over time, it may begin to rot.
Mice settle in heaters.

Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.

Jute and flax fiber for bath caulking

Modern options insulation: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer's assurances about the naturalness of heaters, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fiber durable, but environmental friendliness is reduced.

Yuan jute is sold in the form of a ribbon.

Natural jute is made from bast wood of the linden family. Jute has high strength, durability and resistance to moisture. Water, falling on the material, does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly disappears.

Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material performed well construction sites. Does not rot and does not absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls, sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but batting has 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from the other by color, lnovatin is light, and the fibers of natural insulation are darker.

Produced in the form of tape, cord. To caulk the log cabin of the bath, tape jute or flax fiber is used.

It is necessary to caulk the log cabin of your bath with a heater that meets your requirements and capabilities.

Caulking a bath is necessary in two stages:

immediately after the installation of the box;
after shrinkage of the bath.

It is difficult to re-caulk a log house from a profiled beam, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take a material with a profile chamber-drying or glued. So, shrinkage will be minimal and you won’t have to caulk again. All other types: a log, a simple bar, cylindering must be re-caulked. Need to work special tools as shown in the video:

Tools for the job

To caulk a log house, various types of caulking are used:

typesetting;
curve;
broken;

A mallet (mushkel) is also needed. The tool is used to strike the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with an ordinary rubber mallet. We need a road builder, the tool helps to align the seam after punching with caulks.

What subtleties you need to know when caulking a bath

You need to caulk the walls of the bath from the bottom up around the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is first done by caulking one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking, the bath rises by 5–15 cm. If you do not work consistently, then the structure will warp. By caulking the bottom groove along the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.

Caulking baths start from the bottom, around the perimeter.

It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the junction with the ceiling and roof or removed for a while so as not to be damaged.

There are two ways to caulk a bath:

in a set;
stretched.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Bath caulk in a set

It is necessary to caulk into the set when embedding large cracks and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a bundle of 15–20 mm and, for convenience, wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is substituted for the gap and hammered with a caulk and a mallet, as in the photo.

Caulker in a set and stretched.

First from above, then from below. Align everything with the help of a road builder.

Caulking bath stretched out

The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply stuffed into the gap between the links, and then pierced with a mallet. Perform work until the insulation stops interfering between the logs of the log cabin of the bath.

It is necessary to caulk the log house slowly, carefully closing up every crack. Places where it is difficult to hit with a tool are simply foamed with mounting foam.

We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bath various methods. After the log cabin of the bath has finished caulking, it must be sanded and coated protective compounds. We'll talk about this next time.