How to make a two-tiered plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. Do it yourself - two-level plasterboard ceilings

2-level plasterboard ceilings will allow you to simultaneously solve several problems: to mask the utilities located under the base ceiling base, hide the flaws and shortcomings of the rough ceiling, divide the room into functional zones, mount original lighting... The main disadvantage of such structures is that the suspended ceilings take the height away from the room. However, with correct design, the decorative composition will match the interior.

2-level plasterboard ceilings for the hall photo

Preparation for work

Before installing a 2-level plasterboard ceiling, you need to consider the following nuances:

room height... A two-level system will reduce the spatial dimensions of the room. If the distance from floor to ceiling is only 2.5 meters, you will have to look for another finishing method;
accents... Lighting devices built into the lower level of the structure will help to visually divide the room into separate zones. The perimeter illumination of the box will visually raise the ceiling;
humidity... It is better to refuse the use of drywall in the decoration of bathroom ceilings. But, if it is decided to install suspension system from gypsum plasterboard, choose material marked moisture resistant.

The device of a two-level plasterboard ceiling requires drawing up a detailed design drawing on a sheet of paper. It makes no sense to get started without a picture. There is a chance to get not only ceilings that will not meet expectations, but, even worse, a curved structure.

Sketches of plasterboard ceilings

After the drawing is ready, make several copies of the drawing. Perhaps, in the course of the work, you will make adjustments, and the final version of the two-level ceiling project will differ from the initial one. To draw up a drawing, use a compass, ruler, protractor to accurately reproduce a reduced copy of the structure. Based on the plan, it will be possible to quickly apply markings on the ceiling, exactly repeating the geometry of the figures that are supposed to be made.

The plan must indicate:

center of the room;

sizes of decorative boxes;

the radii of the circles, their location in relation to the designated geometric center of the ceiling;

if a complex curve is used in the decoration, the line is built based on the alignment of circular arcs. In this case, the center and radius of each circle are also indicated in the drawing;

the points of position of the built-in lighting devices are marked, the diameters of the holes that need to be made in the drywall for the lamps are indicated.

When the work with the plan is completed, draw the layout engineering communications in the space between the decorative ceiling and the base base.

These include:

points of location of junction boxes;
types of cables, cross-section of wires;
options for connecting devices;
cable laying routes;
air ducts;
hoods;
ventilation grates.

A separate frame project is drawn up decorative ceiling, where the lines of the location of the bearing and ceiling profiles, the attachment points of the suspensions, "crabs", the position relative to the frame of the gypsum board sheets are outlined. And finally, materials and components are calculated.

The project of the frame of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

When purchasing drywall and frame components, increase all the numbers obtained by 3-5%. It's connected with possible mistakes at the stage of calculations, making changes to the ceiling composition in the course of work, damage to parts during installation.

Plasterboard must be purchased 7-10 days before sheathing. The sheets are placed horizontally in the room where the suspended ceiling will be mounted, so that the material adapts to climatic conditions and takes the correct shape.

Required tools

For the installation of a bunk plasterboard ceiling you will need to prepare the following tools:

perforator for drilling holes in concrete floors;
screwdriver;
drill;
building level;
tape measure and a pencil or marker for transferring the drawing to the base base of the ceiling and the first tier of the structure;
metal shears for profile cutting;
upholstery cord;
a stationery knife with a sharp blade for cutting gypsum boards;
hammer and pliers.

For the finishing of the structure, you will need a serpyanka tape, a primer, a putty, fine-grained sandpaper, a construction float, and spatulas (wide and narrow).

Materials (edit)

Any tiered ceilings begin with the assembly of a frame base from a galvanized metal profile. Lined with plasterboard and wooden frame, but then finishing will cost more, because the price of wood is superior to metal. But in terms of performance and strength, metal profiles are better. Their additional benefits- fire resistance, corrosion resistance, long service life.

Profile frame

For the construction of the frame of the decorative ceiling and sheathing of the structure, you will need:

two types of profiles: guide (UD) and (CD);
special connectors for extending the CD profile;
straight hangers or brackets are used to attach the CD profile to the ceiling;
spring hangers are used in cases where the length of the direct suspension is insufficient. For example, the second level decorative design it is planned to go very low;
duplex connectors. Designed for joining CD profiles located on different levels of the structure;
"Crabs" for joining ceiling profiles on one level of the frame;
corner connectors. With their help, CD profiles are connected at the corners of the room. The connectors are also used for joining the ceiling profile at the same level;
dowel screws, anchor bolts, self-tapping screws, self-tapping screws for metal;
lamps, if plasterboard ceilings with lighting will be mounted;
plasterboard sheets. Most often, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are used for cladding. If an arch is installed, or a complex curvilinear structure, choose a gypsum board with a thickness of 6.5 mm. It is also used for covering the second tier. It is not recommended to purchase a material with a thickness of 12 mm for sheathing the frame under the ceiling due to its too large weight.

Photo of a two-level gypsum plasterboard ceiling with illumination

There are two ways in which you can make a two-level plasterboard ceiling:

the first, when the 2nd level of the decorative ceiling is mounted without arranging the 1st. This method of installing the suspended structure may only be used in the case of a flat base base. In this case, the luminaires are placed in the frame or on the side of the frame;
the second, when they make both the first and second tiers of drywall. This installation method is used in rooms with uneven ceilings, or if there is a finish that cannot be properly leveled with putty, or you need to mask the communications located under the rough ceiling.

Usually, the first level is first mounted, and the frame elements for the 2nd level are already hemmed to it. Or, first, a box is installed, to which a guide profile is further attached to finish the main area of the ceiling surface. The location of the luminaires can be anything.

It is decided which option for installing a decorative 2-level ceiling to choose, starting from the spatial dimensions of the room, the presence or absence of utilities, the quality of the finishing of the base base.

DIY installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

It will be possible to mount a two-level structure from gypsum board independently if you follow the instructions and follow the installation technology.

Ceiling preparation for finishing

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove all furniture, equipment, houseplants... What cannot be taken out is moved to the center of the room, covered plastic wrap for protection from dust and dirt. Remove from the rough ceiling old finish, deep cracks and cracks are sealed with putty or a mixture based on sand and cement, the surface is primed.

Marks on the walls for the first level of the decorative structure using a square, laser and profile levels.

Marking with meter and level

First, they find the lower corner in the room and, starting from it, draw an even horizontal line along the perimeter. Points are put on the ceiling at the points of attachment of direct suspensions, then parallel lines are drawn along which the ceiling profiles will be mounted. Please note that the profiles must be at the joints of the drywall sheets.

At uneven ceilings indoors, first you need to level the markings horizontally, and then act according to the plan. The distance between the hangers is 60 cm, between the profiles - 40 cm. Choose the direction of the profiles yourself. Often professional builders advise to mount profiles towards window openings, citing the fact that the seams on the plasterboard ceiling will be less noticeable.

How to do it yourself from drywall.

Frame installation

Along a horizontal line, guide UD profiles (28 * 27) are attached to the walls using dowel-nails every 30-40 cm. To do this, on back side a sealing tape is glued to the guide, the bar is applied to the wall, fixed with dowel-nails. In the corners, the profiles are inserted into each other, fastened with self-tapping screws.

The next step is to attach the suspensions. If you do not have ready-made elements, make them yourself from the PP 60 * 27 ceiling profile. To do this, measure the distance from the base ceiling to the lower edge of the UD profile, cut pieces from the ceiling profile 1 cm less than the measured distance. From the end of the profile, cut off the side shelves by 2.5 cm, make a tongue from the back. Screw the hangers to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws, and only then fix PP 60 * 27 to them. Alternatively, immediately install the hangers to the rough ceiling surface. Then fasten the CD profile to the hangers, the edges of which are led into the guides. The extension of the ceiling profile is done using connectors.

If a rounded structure is supposed to be installed on the ceiling, a sketch is first drawn. And then, according to the drawing, the guide profile is bent and fixed to the ceiling. To bend the bar, with back side notches are made on it. The space between adjacent notches is determined by the curvature of the line. The steeper the bend, the less distance is left between the cuts.

After that, a nylon thread is pulled under the structure, which regulates the evenness of the frame for the first level. Alignment is carried out using adjustable hangers. The distance from the ceiling to the lower edge of the profile must be the same in all parts of the structure. The ceiling and guide profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws.

Plasterboard sheathing

The photo shows the frame and the first row of gypsum board

First, the frame is sheathed with whole sheets of material. The remaining space is measured, the drywall is cut to required sizes... The ceiling profile bar should be at the junction of adjacent gypsum board sheets. The step between the self-tapping screws is 25-30 cm. The screws are screwed into the drywall so that the head of the self-tapping screw enters the sheet by 3-5 mm. Subsequently, these recesses will be putty.

In those places where the sheet was cut off, a chamfer is made, cutting off part of the material from the gypsum board sheet. This is necessary in order to ensure better adhesion putty mixture.

Surface marking

Installation of the second level when installing 2-level plasterboard ceilings also begins with marking. It is carried out as follows:

from the first level on the wall lay the height of the second tier, put a point;
a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the room from this point;
outline the contours of the second level.

Usually the second level is made in the form of a geometric figure or a curved line. You can prefabricate a template to make it easier to mark. It remains only to trace the outline of the pattern on the ceiling.

Installation of the frame base

The frame is assembled from the UD guide profile along the outlined lines. For bending, cuts are made on the planks.

Now you need to lower the frame to the required length. For this:

the CD profile is cut to the required length;
“tongues” are cut out on one side of the scraps, cutting off the side parts of the profile. This will facilitate installation work;
the segments are inserted into the UD profile fixed to the ceiling and walls with the straight side;
the pieces are fixed on "bedbugs" (special screws for mounting drywall). On straight sections of the structure, the distance between the self-tapping screws is made 50-60 cm, on curved ones - the step is reduced, fixing the sections of the profile every 20-30 cm;
now a guide profile is attached to the bottom of the hanging segments with the help of "bugs".

To make a frame for the rest of the structure, cut the ceiling profile to the required length, one edge of it is inserted into a guide installed against the wall, the other is pressed against the side of the frame. Fasten the bar with self-tapping screws on both sides.

The resulting frame is sewn up with drywall.

On a note! At all stages of assembling the frame, be guided by the drawings so that the jumpers of the ceiling base do not fall into the installation site of the lighting device.

Before proceeding with the installation of the arch, calculate the parameters of the structure, mark the place from which it will begin. Also decide what the radius of curvature will be.

Between room arch with wiring

The arch is attached to a metal frame base made of a rack-mount profile cut with metal scissors.

The procedure for installing the arch is as follows:

make the front side of the structure;
mount the end parts of the decorative element;
the workpiece is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Curved sections on the ceiling

Since arches and other curved structures are represented by curved surfaces, the most thin drywall(6.5 mm). However, at a price, this type of gypsum board will cost more, so the craftsmen, in order to save on finishing, use the following methods with which you can bend the material:

dry version, when the edge of the sheet is fixed to the frame, and bent with effort until it takes the desired shape. Then the sheet is screwed onto the screws to the other side of the frame base;
using notches on the convex side of the sheet on the finished arch. The cuts are made at regular intervals, the distance between them is determined by the required bend radius. The smaller the radius of curvature, the less distance is left between the cuts. For the manufacture of cuts, a hacksaw or a mill is used. Subsequently, the cracks are sealed with putty;
the wet method is used to ensure a gentle bend of the arch model. First, using a needle roller, the side of the sheet that will be concave is processed. Then this surface is moistened abundantly with water, the other side remains completely dry. The sheet is bent to the required curvature, fixed with self-tapping screws to the profile. After 24 hours, the material is ready for finishing.

Cut off part of the drywall sheet

To work with GCR does not take much time, use the following recommendations:

cut the material with a sharp construction knife;
it is convenient to cut large sheets if they are leaning against the wall with a slight slope. Small canvases (up to 60 cm wide) are more convenient to cut on a flat horizontal surface;
make cuts only on the front side of the material;
if the area of the room to be finished is large, purchase sheets of 3.6 m in size, in compact rooms use drywall 2.5 m;
before cutting off a piece, carefully measure the dimensions of the element so as not to "cut off" the excess.

Plasterboard ceiling before finishing

After completing the installation of a two-level ceiling, the result of the work is checked. If everything is in order, proceed to finishing finished structure... For filling and leveling the decorative ceiling, dry putty mixtures are used:

the ceiling is primed with a deep penetration compound, paying close attention to the joints between adjacent sheets and the grooves from the screws. The primer will improve the adhesion properties of the putty, protect the ceiling from mold;
prepare a solution according to the instructions. For stirring, it is advisable to use construction mixer... Then the mass will be homogeneous and without lumps;
first, with the composition, recesses from self-tapping screws and seams are sealed to prevent rust and level the surface. A serpyanka mesh is applied to the joints, a layer of putty is applied on top with a small spatula so that the mixture covers only the tape;
then putty the entire ceiling using a wide spatula;
after the first layer of the mixture dries, the surface is rubbed with fine-grained sandpaper fixed to a construction float;
the next step is applied in a thin layer finishing putty, again left to dry;
re-grind and level the ceiling surface, primed.

The structure is now ready for final finishing any of the selected methods (painting, wallpapering, decorative plastering).

But such careful preparation plasterboard ceiling requires only before painting. Wallpaper and decorative plaster mask minor flaws and shallow cracks.

Such designs will help transform the room beyond recognition. For example, setting the levels to different heights and choosing lighting devices suitable for the interior, it will be possible to divide the room into functional zones. Or, using the figure on the ceiling, highlight the interior items (bed in the bedroom, wardrobe, cabinet, etc.).

Illuminated ceiling

Built-in lighting will create a cozy and romantic indoor environment. The best option will become LED Strip Light... In addition to the fact that soft light will emanate from the device, such lighting will visually raise the ceiling space if you place the tape around the perimeter of the decorative plasterboard box.

Plasterboard is used to create multi-level ceilings in any room:

in the kitchen they often choose geometric figures... A circle is usually mounted in the center, and rectangular elements are usually mounted at the edges;
curved lines are preferable for the bedroom. Sleeping place allocated with the help of a decorative niche, which acts as the second tier of the structure. For a small bedroom, a two-level ceiling with a built-in LED strip is well suited;
in the children's room, a suspended multi-level ceiling is mounted in order to delimit the space. Levels highlight workplace, play area. Each section of the child's room should be well lit with appliances suitable for the style of the interior;
difficult in the hall plasterboard construction on the ceiling will decorate the interior. GKL boxes of square or rectangular shape are suitable here. You can illuminate individual areas with spotlights or LED strip.

During the installation process, it is important to be attentive to all, even insignificant, at first glance, nuances. You can install a two-level ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard in a few days, while you will operate the structure longer. Therefore, carefully approach the choice of design and design of the future ceiling, and when purchasing materials and components, give preference to proven brands.

Vieo how to make a 2-level plasterboard ceiling (gypsum plasterboard)

Drywall is by far the most popular construction and finishing material used to create two-level ceilings... Looking at pictures of layered ceiling structures, we think that it is impossible to cope with such work on our own. In fact, although it is not easy, it is quite feasible. You will need attentiveness, accuracy, small construction skills and knowledge of theory.

Required materials and tools

So, you have decided to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling in an apartment or house. For the work to go quickly and smoothly, prepare everything you need in advance. You will need the following tools:

screwdriver and hammer drill;
water level and a rule with a level, it is better if it is at least 2 meters long;
upholstery cord;
square, tape measure, pencil;
stepladder, construction "goats";
knife for cutting plasterboard;
hammer;
drywall hacksaw.

Usually, two-level plasterboard ceilings are made in order to arrange complex lighting. So, you should stock up on a standard set of tools for electrical work.

Materials and tools that you will need in your work

Now let's move on to consumables... You will need:

drywall sheets;
bearing profile;
guide profile;
knitting needles or U-shaped hangers, depending on the distance at which the frame will be mounted to the main ceiling;
self-tapping screws for metal for drywall of different lengths;
quick assembly, diameter 6 mm.

The amount of material directly depends on the area of the ceiling. Do not forget that it is better to let the surplus remain than in the most the right moment not enough material. Therefore, purchase with a margin. This is especially important if this is the first time you come across this kind of work: you will likely make mistakes in the process.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the scheme of the future ceiling.

Ceiling schemes: choose the right one

There is a huge range of designs for multi-level plasterboard ceilings. Many of them are very complex and require professional work of specialists. We will focus on simple popular schemes that beginners can implement.

The first scheme

The first method involves installing only a box with a visor (or without it) around the perimeter of the room or in some of its sections. This so-called “island” installation is very easy to implement and is suitable for flat ceilings, which can be simply patched before use. The second tier is usually used to hide communications along the perimeter of the ceiling or to provide zoning to the room.

If a visor is provided on the second tier, into which light cords or lamps will be mounted, then this will not only serve as a separator into zones, but will also help at a certain moment to give the interior the desired atmosphere.

Let's say you are making a ceiling like this in your bedroom. If necessary, you can turn off the main lights, and leave only the cord in the side turned on. The cord itself is not visible because of the visor, so the lighting will be muted, creating an atmosphere of comfort and romance.

Diagram of a box with a visor for concealed lighting

You can make a second-level box of any shape - rectangular, round, oval, wavy. It all depends on your imagination and desire. But remember about the classic rules for shaping the interior. For example, for dynamic design the smooth lines of the second tier are perfect. If the decor in your room is laconic, simple, then it is better to use straight lines in the design of the ceiling.

Scheme two

This method is useful if your ceiling is uneven, or there are too many communications on it. Therefore, the creation of the first level from drywall will be required.

Usually mounted first base surface ceiling, and the second level is hemmed to the frame of the first.

Fastening the box to the frame of the first tier

The second option implies, first of all, the installation of the box, and the subsequent fastening of the guide profile to it for the main plane of the ceiling.

Fastening the first tier to the side of the box

Whichever method you use, after installation, the two-level ceiling will look something like this:

Ceiling box with straight lines

For these simple schemes you can choose the option of a two-level ceiling that suits you best, which is easy to do with your own hands.

Installation process

The first stage of work is marking. She will require you special attention because any mistake can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Take a tape measure and pencil. Define a point on the wall that will be the starting point for the horizontal lines of the bottom edge of the box.
Using a water level, transfer points from the original elevation to each corner of the room. Draw horizontal lines between them with the upholstery cord.

Drawing lines for wall guides

Draw lines across the ceiling. They will mark the longitudinal inner boundaries of the second tier.

Now in the remaining space within the perimeter of the intended boxes, draw a grid. At the intersections of its lines, suspensions for the first tier will be attached. It is easy to do this: place marks at a distance of 50 cm from each other along the longitudinal borders of opposite lines. On the rest of the perpendicular lines, place marks at a distance of 60 cm. At the intersections of the lines, you will get right angles.

Ceiling layout example

The markup is finished, now proceed with the installation.

Assembling the box

First you need to assemble the boxes. Fasten the guide profiles along the lines on the wall. Do the same along the inner borders of the second tier, along the ceiling.

From the profile on the ceiling, measure the distances to the line on the walls, subtract about 1.5 cm, and according to the figure obtained, cut off the pieces of the CD profile with a small allowance at one edge.

Insert the cut pieces into the profile on the ceiling and screw them at a distance of about half a meter from each other.

Screw the guide profile to the allowances on the lower edges of the pieces of the suspended profiles. Its sharp edges will face the wall. Now the guides can be connected with pieces of the supporting profile of the required length by inserting and screwing them.

Side edge of the box

Sheathe the bottom and side of the frame with drywall. Your box is ready!

Please note: before starting the installation of a two-level ceiling, plan where the electric wires, chandeliers and lamps are located. Installation should be carried out taking into account all these features.

If the two-level ceiling was planned in such a way that the width of the boxes is more than half a meter, the middle of each piece of the supporting profile must be fixed on the suspension. This will stiffen the frame and allow the drywall sheet to be secured more securely.

We mount the first tier

Attach the hangers at the intersection of the lines on the ceiling. On the side edge of the box, make horizontal lines along the drywall, thus marking the lower border of the first tier. Attach guides to these lines and fasten them with self-tapping screws.

Insert the support profile into the guides on two opposite edges, keeping a distance of 60 cm from each other. On the remaining edges, place the profiles with a distance of half a meter, as a result, you will get a frame with cells of 50 X 60 cm.

Using a stretched cord or leveling rule, apply bearing profile required position and secure it with hangers.

Cut the jumpers from the same profile, insert them between all supporting parallel profiles and screw them, keeping a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Two-level frame in finished form

At this point, your two-level ceiling is almost ready. It remains only to double-check whether everything is correctly and securely fixed, to correct something, if necessary, and to sew sheets onto the frame.

Video about the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

As you can see, update the room and give it an original one, unusual view using a two-level plasterboard ceiling is not very difficult even for a beginner. We hope our tips will help you get this job done quickly and easily. Ask your questions in the comments, or share your experience with us. Good luck and comfort to your home!

The appearance of drywall on the market solved many problems with leveling flaws on the ceiling, as well as in the device on them of various multi-level relief compositions. The advantages of this material are invaluable for work in skillful hands it takes the necessary shape, so stylized flowers and concave domes, waves and fantastic patterns are arranged from it on the ceilings. Literally anything that the imagination suggests can be reproduced using drywall.

How to start work on a two-level ceiling

You need to start the device with a sketch of your future ceiling and determine what exactly you want to get in the end.

A GENERAL PROJECT IS NECESSARY, i.e. how it will look if you look at it from below, and sketch drawings of each level.

This will make it easier to calculate the amount necessary materials and the structure of the frame, taking into account that the lower level will be attached to the upper one. This calculation will help you save money when buying material for installing a two-level ceiling.

Cooking tools and materials

Plasterboard sheets rolled with a special roller with metal spikes, which leave micro-holes on their surface

In addition to drywall and metal profiles, you will need a number of additional materials, without which you can not do when mounting the frame. It:

Connecting metal profiles.
Suspension clamps with rods or spacer brackets.
Self-tapping screws.
Dowels-nails or anchoring elements for fastening to floor slabs and walls.
Connectors - sibling and duplex.
Serpyanka tape, putty, sanding paper or mesh.

When installing a structure, you need to prepare the following tools:

A tape measure, a square and a long ruler, preferably a metal one, a building level.
Painting cord for stripping lines.
Screwdriver.
Paper knife - it is convenient for them to cut drywall.
Metal scissors - required for cutting a metal profile.
Rotary hammer for drilling holes in concrete ceilings.
Pliers, hammer.
Grater, spatula.

Having calculated how much and what you need, buy everything with a little stock so that during work at an inopportune moment you do not find a shortage of one or another part.

We mount the frame

Mounting tiered ceiling drywall can be done in two ways... Each of them has its own advantages.

The fastening of metal profiles in both cases is the same, but the difference is in the following points:

In the first version, first, the first level of the ceiling is completely arranged.: frame and plasterboard sheathing and only after that the second level frame is made. Its advantage is that heat and sound insulation material can be arranged under the first level.
Another option is to assemble the entire frame, that is, the first and second levels, and only then is the plasterboard cladding. The advantage of this option is to save money on buying drywall.

First level

The step-by-step installation of the first level of the ceiling must be started with careful marking.

On the walls, you need to mark the height at which the first level will be located and beat off straight lines around the entire perimeter of the room. Metal profiles will be attached to them.
On these metal profiles, the distance is marked at which the intermediate frame profiles will be attached. The step between the guides is 40-50 cm. They are suspended from the ceiling using hangers-distancers or clamps-"butterflies" with rods. Then, with the same step, the crossbars are attached using crab connectors. You should get something like this crate.
If a backlight is supposed to be at this level, the wiring for it must be done before sheathing.
The next step in the installation instructions is to cover the frame with plasterboard. It is screwed on with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver, in increments of 15-25 cm. To make everything look neat, it is better to first drill the holes with a thin metal drill... When the entire crate is sheathed, the first level can be considered ready.

The task gets harder - second level

Consider the installation instructions for the second level.

The drawing of the second level is transferred from the sketch to the ceiling using a pencil. To get exactly the bend that was conceived, you can cut out a kind of pattern from cardboard, then fix it to the first level of drywall using stud buttons and circle it with a pencil.
Next, a frame is prepared from metal profiles. If a curved or round shape is required, the profile is cut with metal scissors. After that, it is easy to bend it and attach it along the marked line.
Another metal profile is also attached to the wall and connected to the figured elements with intermediate parts that ensure the rigidity of the structure - this will be the frame of the second level. On this frame, the wiring for the backlight is fixed, spreading it to the desired places.
When the entire frame is ready, it is also sheathed with plasterboard in the right places. V large planes you can immediately mark or cut the holes for the luminaires.
Plasterboard seams and screw heads must be putty. After drying, the surface is leveled with a float and carefully sanded. The leveled surfaces can be wallpapered or painted in your own colors.

It takes a little work to bend the drywall neatly.

A needle roller is passed along one side of it. Then the other side of the material is moistened from the spray bottle, left for five to seven minutes, gently bent, and wet attached to the frame - there the material must dry completely.

And you are weak: a photo of two-level plasterboard ceilings

In order to be able to decide on your own project that you want to implement in your room, it is useful to familiarize yourself with several already ready-made options two-level ceilings, and, at the same time, take a closer look at the distribution of lighting devices on their plane.

Two-level ceiling for a children's room color pink- just perfect. It is suitable for both a little girl and a teenager. A glamorous combination of pink and white creates a cozy and warm atmosphere. The second level of the ceiling consists of a curl with lighting from the outside.

Despite the number of round edges, the installation of such figured ceiling from drywall is not very difficult to perform.

The green ceiling design is good for the bedroom. Green color has always been considered soothing, as it is close to the natural colors of wildlife. The round shape that makes up the second level is also pleasing to the eye. Soft lighting from the inside and spotlights blend well with shapes and provide the soft lighting you need.

This is a ceiling of fantastic beauty, the flowing shape of a flower - the second level of which is emphasized by skillfully arranged lighting around the entire perimeter of the room. This creates a special effect of softness and tenderness.

The installation technology of this structure is rather complicated, since each petal has bends in two planes, and you need to try very hard to make them approximately the same.

The second option is suitable for any design of the hall, bedroom or nursery. His White color, also illuminated with the help of an LED cord, which is located along the entire perimeter of the second level, is given a glare on the entire plane - thereby it becomes brighter in the room. The availability of this editing technology is obvious - it can be performed by anyone, even a novice master.

So, if you decide to try your hand at this work, you need to carefully calculate everything and clearly define the forms. Further, you need a step-by-step understanding of the installation, how you will do it from start to finish - then in practice everything will go well.

All that is required of you is accuracy and precision in the calculations. And an ardent desire to transform one of the rooms of your house will definitely help to cope with all the difficulties.

It may seem to someone that a two-level ceiling is an overkill, but in fact, such a design can make a room more functional and comfortable.

In rooms with such designs, sounds decay faster than in other rooms.

Surely you are interested in what is the cost of installing ceiling structures? The average price today is as follows.

The cost of installation of plasterboard structures

№	Type of work	One. rev.	Cost of work, rub.
	Ceiling installation works
1	Installation of straight plasterboard ceilings using P113 technology	sq.m	from 600 to 800
2	Ceiling lining in one layer GKL frame 600 mm	sq.m	320-450
3	Ceiling lining one layer GKL Frame 400 mm	sq.m	480-500
4	Ceiling lining two layers of gypsum board Frame 600 mm	sq.m	480
5	Ceiling lining two layers of gypsum plasterboard Frame 400 mm	sq.m	470-560
	Subsequent ceiling levels
6	Installation of two-level ceilings from gypsum plasterboard	sq.m	600-720
7	In the form of a box	running meters	350-400
8	Curved ceiling design element	running meters / sq.m	400-600
9	Element with hidden built-in lighting	running meters	480-500
10	Installation of complex plasterboard ceilings	sq.m	from 760 to 1750
11	Installation of two-level gypsum plasterboard ceilings with bends	sq.m	900
12	The device of the visor-nysshi under the tab of the LED strip	running meters	560-700
	Complex ceiling structures
13	Standard straight duct	running meters	350-420
14	Standard curved trunking	running meters	500-680
15	Straight box with built-in hidden lighting	running meters	600-700
16	Curved box with built-in hidden lighting	running meters	600-1000
17	Installation of simple round boxes made of gypsum plasterboard in 2 layers	running meters	1100-1200
18	Installation of two-sided round boxes made of gypsum plasterboard in 2 layers	running meters	1200-1400
19	Installation of a circular eaves of gypsum plasterboard in 2 layers	running meters	300-380

An illustrative installation process can be seen by watching a video tutorial on installing plasterboard ceilings. Good luck in the repair!

Beautiful, stylish, original ... many more epithets can be picked up while admiring the beautiful two-level plasterboard ceiling. This is precisely the unusual design of these ceilings. The fact that each ceiling looks different.

And the more imagination you show when developing sketches of the ceiling, the brighter it will characterize you and decorate the hall, bedroom, living room or kitchen.

At first glance, it seems that only a tandem of a designer plus professional builders can create such beauty. But no, for the installation of ceilings made of gypsum plasterboard, you do not need to graduate from an art school, have higher education in the specialty "builder". No set required special tools... You just need to have an idea of what kind of ceiling you want to make and get. And also show some creativity. The rest is a matter of technology.

Despite the fact that visually all ceilings are different, the final decoration and good design... Someone is more worried about, and someone is design, although these processes can be related, complementing each other.

The technology for arranging a two-level plasterboard ceiling is identical for each type (single-level, multi-level). And to make it easier for a beginner, this article will provide step by step instructions- how to install 2-level plasterboard ceilings. But first, a little theory ...

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling - plan

First of all, there are several important points to consider:

the height of the room. A two-level ceiling design will reduce the height of the room. For residents modern apartments v panel house even 5-10 cm already significant losses;

Advice.
If you have a perfectly flat ceiling, then you can mount the second level of the frame directly on it. This will save space.

distribution of accents. With the help of lamps mounted in the frame of the plasterboard ceiling, you can zone the space or shift the focus to any part of the room.

Lamps can be purchased in any capacity. Plasterboard systems do not impose any restrictions on your choice. Such as, stretch ceiling or plastic, where there is a danger of using powerful light devices (can lead to deformation and even fire).

room humidity. It is not recommended to equip such a ceiling in the bathroom, because the sheet can be deformed. Although, there is moisture resistant drywall(GKLV), for example, Knauf, for correct installation and organization high-quality ventilation, may well serve.

Advice.
To protect drywall from moisture, a primer is used in several layers.

the presence of assistants. A person cannot do this work on his own.

the complexity of the design. The more complex the design, the more difficult it is to calculate the amount of materials and mount them, and, accordingly, the work will last longer.

(single-level, double-level and multi-level)

Tool for installation of drywall and profile

scissors for metal;
hammer drill or drill;
painting knife;
square;
roulette;
plumb line;
building level;
drywall planer;
drywall grater;
narrow and wide spatula;
gloves and glasses.

Plasterboard ceiling materials

This selection is needed so that you can calculate and know exactly what to buy, how this or that element looks, and for what purpose it is used. We hope that thanks to this detailed description you will not buy too much and save money and nerves.

Typically used ceiling plasterboard... Its thickness is 9.5 mm.

For the second tier, in which there are no lamps and sidewalls, you can use arched drywall... Its thickness is 6 mm.

Designed for splicing two CD profiles.

On it, the profile is attached to the ceiling.

It is used if the length of the direct suspension is not sufficient for installation. Ie, the second level of the ceiling is lowered too low.

For connecting CD profiles at different levels.

Advice. When installing, try to reduce the number of extensions of this type of profile.

Designed to connect CD-profiles at the same level.

Advice.
The crab can be replaced. How to do this can be seen in the photo.

Its purpose is to connect the CD profile perpendicularly and at the same level.

The choice depends on the material from which the walls and ceiling are made.

Self-tapping screw "flea" Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 by 9.5 mm. - "flea".

Serpyanka tape (self-adhesive)

For gluing seams or non-woven materials for gluing the entire ceiling.

(ceiling, spot, halogen or LED led).

Advice. The wiring for the fixtures is started before the plasterboard cladding begins.

Schemes and sketches of two-level plasterboard ceilings

Knowing what you want to see on the ceiling will ultimately make it much easier for you to calculate the material and work.

Before making ceiling drawings, check out what types of two-level plasterboard ceilings exist.

Backlit plasterboard ceiling - installation methods

The first method consists in the device of the second level without mounting the first one. Used if you have a perfect ceiling surface. And the lamp is supposed to be placed in the frame.

The approach is the same. But the lamps are also mounted on the side of the frame.

Installation of two frames. Luminaires are mounted in the second of them.

The approach to installation is the same. But the lamps are also located along the perimeter of the second tier.

A similar approach. But for side lamps, instead of a frame, a polypropylene profile is provided, which is glued to the frame of the second level with a putty.

Using one of the basic types of installation presented, you can easily create such sketches of a two-level ceiling that will appeal to all family members.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling - installation instructions

It should be noted that there is disagreement among professionals in what order to carry out the arrangement of tiers. Two ways can be distinguished.

In the first case, work begins with the installation of the first level frame. And then the frame of the second tier is suspended from it. It is applicable if the area of the second tier is insignificant, because in fact the entire weight of the second frame falls on the sheets of the first.

In the second case, the frame of the second tier is assembled first, and already between its elements, the frame of the first is made. More complex construction.

We will talk in more detail about the first installation option for a two-level ceiling. This will give you basic information about installation. The second option, more complicated, will be described below and illustrated in the photo.

We make a two-level plasterboard ceiling consistently and in accordance with the instructions, then the work will be done efficiently.

The technology for the manufacture of 2-level plasterboard ceilings provides for work in the following order:

Preparation of the ceiling for plasterboard (preparing the workplace).
We carry out the marking of the ceiling under the frame for drywall.
Installation of a drywall frame - the first level.
Installing a frame for drywall - the second level.
Finishing of a two-level plasterboard ceiling.

1. Preparation of the ceiling for drywall

Ceiling decoration is not like screwing in a light bulb - here you cannot do without removing furniture.

Free up the room and the approaches to it, so it will be easier to carry out the installation. It is important to prepare the surface itself. Agree, it's better to do something on free space than to constantly bend around, cut off, wash off any remnants. All loose plaster must be removed. Some craftsmen leave it, but everything that does not hold well sooner or later will disappear.

2. Marking the ceiling for the drywall frame

To do this, you need to take the following steps:

- measure the height of the corners in the room;

Determine the angle with the smallest height.

He will serve Starting point for marking. After all, we need the structure to be flat relative to the horizontal;

- make a markup.

On the walls for the profiles, we mark a straight line. We put points on the ceiling for direct suspension. Excessive markup is useless, it will only confuse. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a laser or water level.

Advice. The water level of the required length can be made independently using a nylon hose (for example, from a medical dropper) with diameters of 10-15 mm. and filling it with water.

It may happen that in your room not only the angles are different, but also the lengths of the opposite sides. In this case, try to level it horizontally first. And then draw a clear pattern on the ceiling and align the structure around the edges. This will help you visually center the ceiling.

3. Installation of the frame for drywall - installation of the first level

3.1. Installation begins with the installation of UD-profiles.

They are guides and are mounted on the wall, along the perimeter of the entire structure. Mounting step - 600 mm. And also on the ceiling.

The way of connecting the profile on the wall and in the corner is shown in the photo (right and left, respectively).

If it is supposed to form rounded elements, you need to draw a drawing on the wall, and fix the UD profile along it. But first, you need to make notches on the profile.

And fasten along the line drawn on the ceiling.

3.2. We attach a straight suspension to the points set on the ceiling.

At the same time, we observe the fastening step - 600 mm.

If your ceiling surface is perfect, then you can skip this step. And start right away with the installation of the second level.

3.3. A CD-profile is attached to a straight hanger.

The resulting frame will have the form shown in the diagram and photo.

The use of crabs will give rigidity to the frame.

Advice.

Where the sheet has been cut, you need to provide a chamfer. To do this, cut off part of the material from the drywall sheet with a knife.

This is necessary in order for the putty to fit better on the seam. And the seam did not part with time.

4. Installation of the frame for drywall - installation of the second level

4.1. Marking the frame for drywall.

To do this, draw lines on the wall for the UD-profile, and draw a future drawing on the ceiling.

The presence of a diagram on the ceiling will not only simplify the installation process, but also help you understand how your structure will look after the end of the work. And, therefore, you will have the opportunity to make the necessary adjustments.

We mount the ceiling frame made of a metal profile (UD profile), fixing it to the wall and ceiling.

How to make a wireframe the desired shape(round off the profile) we already know.

Material prepared for the site www.site

4.3. We lower the frame to the desired length.

For this you need:

cut the CD-profile to the length by which you want to lower the frame;

cut out the "tabs" on one side of these pieces. To do this, you need to cut off the side parts of the profile. It will be easier to mount them this way.

insert the cut pieces into the UD profile, which is already fixed to the ceiling. You need to insert the straight side.

fix the pieces with the "flea". The step between straight line segments is 500-600 mm. A larger step will make the structure not reliable enough, a smaller one will make it heavier. The step between the curved segments is 200-300 mm. This is due to the fact that the curved sheet needs to be fixed more often.

put on the UD-profile on the hanging pieces and fix them with a flea.

As a result, you should end up with a sidewall like this.

Then follows:

cut off the CD-profile to the length that is equal to the distance from the sidewall of the frame to the UD-profile located on the wall;

fix them with fleas on both sides.

You got it ready metal carcass... After that, it should be sheathed with plasterboard and proceed to finishing work.

Advice. When assembling the frame, look at the drawings. Otherwise, it may happen that the jumper will be in place of the future lamp.

The photo and picture show how to bend the drywall for the arch and how the CD profile and drywall sheet should be prepared.

Their device is very simple, it is important to correctly make notches on the sheet without cutting face layer cardboard.

If it is possible to cut right size from a whole sheet of paper, the issue is easily resolved. If not, cut out the segments and assemble them piece by piece.

It should be noted that in this case the frame must be stiffer. Because each self-tapping screw is screwed into the profile.

The result of your efforts should look something like the one shown in the photo.

5. Plasterboard ceiling decoration

Sew up the seams with a serpentine tape.

Apply a little putty to the tape with a small spatula.

By using false ceilings from drywall you can create any, even the most complex and unusual designs... They will not only help to divide the premises into separate zones, beat spot lighting, but also hide bulky beams, too large elevation differences, wiring, etc. Moreover, the creation of two-level ceilings is quite a feasible task for anyone who knows how to use a construction tool.

Surface preparation

Before starting indoor installation, complete all renovation work... If the ceiling is completely hidden under suspended structure, you do not need to align it. However, for ensuring the reliability of fasteners cracks that are too large should be widened and repaired. Large layers of crumbling plaster are removed. To provide free access to the ceiling, it is advisable to remove the furniture from the room or at least move it so that it does not interfere with installation.

Large cracks are covered with cement mortar.

Materials and tools

To create a multi-level ceiling you will need:
drywall;
ceiling bearing profile CD (PP) to create the base of the frame, it will take on the main part of the load; to protect the structure from sagging, it is fastened along the entire length of the sheets with a pitch of 40-50 mm;
ceiling guiding profile UD (PNP): mounted on walls;
straight hangers (distancers) and with a clip for fixing to the ceiling; one- and two-level connectors, extension cords, etc.;
angle grinder for profile cutting;
puncher;
self-tapping screws (for fastening to wooden base) or anchor metal dowels for fastening to concrete;
small self-tapping screws for metal ("bugs") for the profile;
screwdriver;
construction knife or hacksaw for metal for cutting drywall;
building level;
roulette;
needle roller for aligning gypsum plasterboard bends;
electric drill;
soundproof materials(if necessary);
putty, primer, reinforcing mesh;
putty knife;
acrylic paint or any other finishing material;
ladder.

UD and CD profiles

To create the simplest structures, it is enough to use straight suspensions (during their installation, excess length is bent or cut off)

Crab profile connector

Two-level suspension

Sliding hanger with clamp and pull rod (used to create complex suspended structures in rooms with very high ceilings)

False ceiling markings

To begin with, the location of the upper planks is determined. To do this, the distance required for laying communications recedes from the edge of the ceiling. If they are not there, with perfectly flat ceilings, an indent of 5-8 cm is enough. spotlights another 3-4 cm is added to this value.For multi-level structures, markings are carried out for each level, with an indent from 5 to 15 cm from each line.

Along the perimeter of the walls with a bubble or laser level held horizontal line... It should be noted that the slightest deviations or inaccuracies made during the marking will be emphasized by the play of light and shadows of spotlights.

Ceiling markings

For marking curvilinear structures from the profile is made a kind compass in which two holes are drilled. The first hole will attach it to the ceiling. A pencil is inserted into the second, with which the desired circle or part of the arc will be drawn on the ceiling. Construction contours are drawn with a different color or less bold line.

Two-level ceiling scheme

Marking is done on the ceiling and mounted lighting wiring... In the future, a cut of the required diameter will be made for them in drywall, and the lamps will be attached using their own latches with springs.

Fixing fixtures

Profile installation

The work algorithm is quite simple. To prevent the formation of cracks in the corners along the walls, a damper is glued separating tape made of foamed polyethylene. Attached to the ceiling with dowels straight suspensions, and then screw on them profiles... Moreover, the first along the walls are laid guides ceiling profiles UD, and then, using a level with a step of 40-50 mm, are arranged parallel to each other carriers CD. The connection points should be strengthened " crabs».

Profile installation diagram

Assembling a single-level ceiling

For the construction of the second and next levels of the ceiling, the second is attached to the first row of profiles.

Frame of the second level from the profile

Curved profile

To receive designs complex shape can be purchased arched profile, already having cuts for uniform bending, or make it yourself.

Advice. To bend a regular profile, cuts are made in it every 5-15 cm (the larger the bending radius, the more often the cuts should be made).

Profile cutting

Installation of a profile for curved structures

How to cut drywall?

It is recommended to mark the sheets with a pencil (traces of a marker or pen are very difficult to hide even under a layer of putty). To receive even cut a metal ruler is applied to the sheet, and then an incision is made along it. To cut through not only upper layer sheet, but also the gypsum core, should be drawn along the outlined line several more times.

Cutting drywall sheets

Then a sheet of drywall should be placed on an edge and knocked on it from the opposite side of the cut. The plaster core will finally break off. Next, the cardboard is cut from the second side of the sheet, and the cut points are aligned and cleaned out.

Advice. For the convenience of puttying, a chamfer at an angle of 22 ° is removed from the edges of the plasterboard by about 2/3 of the sheet thickness with a mounting knife.

Plasterboard installation

Plasterboard sheets are attached to carrier profile using small self-tapping screws ("bugs") with a pitch of 170 mm. Distance from the edge of the sheet - from 15 mm. In this case, the screw heads are recessed into the base of the sheet by 1 mm. In an arc, the drywall strips do not lie flat enough, so they should be moistened and laid with needle roller... In this case, you should use not ordinary, but thinner restoration drywall 8 mm thick.

Advice. To obtain an even bend, the sheet must be cut not along, but across.

Plasterboard bending devices

For fixing spotlights in drywall, holes are made using an electric drill. The light sources will be held by their own clamps.

Holes for fixtures

All joints of drywall sheets, as well as holes from self-tapping screws, are treated with a primer, and then twice putty... First, overlay on the layer of putty reinforcing tape and pressed in with a spatula. After the first layer has dried, the joints are putty again and rubbed over.

False ceiling mounting scheme