Do-it-yourself design 01 single-level. Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling: single-level floating ceiling on rods

Relatively easy to install and inexpensive plasterboard ceilings have recently deservedly taken a leading position in the field of repair and reconstruction of premises for various purposes. The main reason for this popularity is the impressive speed and quality of finishing walls and ceilings using gypsum boards.

In the practice of repair and construction work, there are two main types of ceilings, using drywall - single-level and multi-level.

In the practice of repair and construction work, there are two main types of ceilings mounted using drywall - single-level and multi-level. In this case, the advantages of a one-level ceiling covering, the materials and tools used, as well as the procedure that will allow you to mount a perfectly even single-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands without the help of outside specialists are considered.

Advantages of drywall in comparison with plastering

Plasterboard sheets make it possible to easily level ceilings of almost any degree of curvature.

The long-known technology for leveling ceilings with various plaster mixtures has proven itself in repair and construction work. However, only with the start of the production of drywall sheets, the flaws of plastering became apparent even by the hands of experienced craftsmen. The advantages of installing ceilings using drywall include the following:

1. Plasterboard sheets make it possible to easily level ceilings of almost any degree of curvature. At the same time, plaster can be applied to the ceiling with a layer of no more than 15 mm.
2. Single-level plasterboard ceilings are able to effectively cover various mounting structures, main and additional communications, including electrical wiring, ventilation and other pipes, and various beams.

With the help of a plasterboard ceiling, you can improve personal comfort with your own hands:

1. In particular, it is possible to arrange additional heat and sound insulation of the room. In this case, the room will become more comfortable, and annoying noise and loud music will not penetrate from the neighbors.
2. When installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling, there is no “wet” stage inherent in traditional plastering. Thus, drywall allows you to complete the installation of the ceiling much faster, without prolonged drying of the plaster.

Despite some of the disadvantages that this technology has (reducing the height of the room when installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, possible cracks at the junction of the sheets, the difficulty of installation without an assistant), in general, single-level plasterboard ceilings are an excellent and uncomplicated option for someone who decides to make do-it-yourself repair. And knowledge of the materials and tools used in this operation will help him in this.

Back to index

Materials and tools for plasterboard ceilings

During the installation process, it is necessary to carefully monitor the even surface of the entire structure.

As a rule, the ceilings are sheathed with standard plasterboard sheets. This building material has good insulating characteristics and is very easy to work with tools. However, this advantage of drywall in case of improper storage and transportation turns out to be its significant drawback, and so that the sheets do not break during installation, they must be handled with extreme care.

In accordance with the purpose and technical parameters, there are only five varieties of gypsum plasterboard sheets - standard, moisture resistant, gypsum fiber, fire resistant and moisture fire resistant. In most cases, for the installation of single-level ceilings, standard and moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets are used.

For the device of such a ceiling with your own hands, the following profiles and fixtures for the frame are needed:

• main ceiling profile (PP);
• guide ceiling profile (PPN);
• direct suspension;
• main profile extension;
• connector type "crab";
• dowel-nails;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• reinforced tape (with its help, the seams between the GKL are sealed).

You can make a high-quality ceiling with your own hands, having the following set of tools:

• perforator (impact drill);
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• metal scissors;
• nozzles for mixing the solution;
• drills for concrete and metal;
• drywall knife;
• steel spatula.

Back to index

The sequence of works on the installation of the frame

One of the important points in the installation of the entire structure is the installation of the frame.

Before you start making a single-level ceiling with your own hands, you need to clean the main ceiling from old putty or wallpaper. Be sure to remove all lighting fixtures. Then draw a line along the perimeter of the room at a specified distance from the ceiling. The guide and main profiles will subsequently be attached along this line.

The next stage is the installation of hangers on the ceiling for mounting the main frame. This can be done in various ways, for example, by first marking the entire ceiling area or by applying a special grid to the ceiling with intersections marked on it for attaching suspensions.

At the points marked in this way, approximately at an equal distance from each other, suspensions are attached using a perforator (impact drill) and dowels with plastic sleeves. For single-level ceilings, the thickness of which does not exceed 100-120 mm, U-shaped suspensions are used; for plasterboard ceiling structures with a thickness of more than 120 mm, special rod suspensions are used.

Single-level plasterboard ceilings are able to effectively cover various mounting structures, including electrical wiring, ventilation and other pipes.

After that, a guide profile is attached along the entire perimeter of the room on the walls along the previously made marks with the help of dowel-nails (if there is a partner, then this operation can be done simultaneously with attaching the suspensions to the ceiling). As a result, a kind of belt from a metal profile should form, into which the main profile will be inserted.

Next, the main profiles are installed, which will take on the entire load of the drywall sheets attached to them. The ends of the main profiles are inserted into the grooves of the guide profiles; along the entire length, these profiles are attached with self-tapping screws to the installed hangers. All the time of installation it is necessary to ensure that the main supporting profiles do not sag. You can do this with the level.

In some cases, it may be necessary to use metal “crab” adapters or profile extensions. Thanks to these devices, it is possible to make a single-level ceiling over a large area with your own hands.

Frankly, not all customers set themselves the goal of turning their apartment into an ultra-modern living space with a lot of ornate ideas and intricate design solutions. Some unnecessary complications of the interior are considered not only expensive, but also literally tedious pleasure.

Either people are brought up like that, or their state of health is such that it does not allow evaluating modern ideas, or maybe everything is much simpler - there is not much money, and what you just want to save. Be that as it may, the fact remains that most customers planning to finish the GKL surface prefer simple single-level plasterboard ceilings.

These ceilings, if they can surprise with something, only with their perfectly flat and smooth surface. By and large, this is quite enough to make the room look decent, and it was not a shame to receive guests in it.

General information about a simple plasterboard ceiling

The classic version of the simplest is characterized by the presence of the following main components:

• durable metal frame, constructed from a galvanized profile, fixed to the ceiling on suspensions;
• a facing layer consisting of plasterboard, which is securely screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws;
• a built-in spot lighting system, the supply lines of which are completely hidden from view under the skin.

Material selection

Whatever the ceiling being constructed, simple or complex, the material for it needs the same quality. This is especially true for gypsum boards, which can have various purposes:

• standard;
• moisture resistant;
• fire resistant;
• moisture and fire resistant.

Most often, the ceilings in houses and apartments are sheathed using ordinary or moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

Advice: If, after delivering the material to your home, it seems to you that it is a little damp, there is nothing to worry about. The main thing is to carefully bring it into the room and let it lie down for a bit. In a dry room, literally the next day, the sheets are completely suitable for further use.

Preparing the base for the frame

The beginning of the main work is preceded by the preparation of walls and the base ceiling:

• we remove the wallpaper completely from the walls, and the surface can not be touched. However, if the room is damp, it is still better to remove the paper;
• dismantling old lighting fixtures;
• remove loose plaster;
• draw marking lines on the walls and ceiling using chocline. First, marks are placed on the walls in all corners at the level of installation of a new coating. The hydraulic level will help with this. Next, the labels are interconnected, resulting in a closed loop. Also, parallel lines are applied on the ceiling with a step of 60 cm, along which suspensions will be located in the future, and directly below them along them - bearing profiles.

Frame installation

The final appearance of any frame structure, including a single-level plasterboard ceiling, largely depends on how the frame is mounted. Mistakes made at this stage cannot be corrected by either finishers or painters, because if there is a distortion of the plane, the putty will not hide this flaw in any way.

With responsibility in mind, let's get to work by doing the following:

• above the line on the walls, located along the perimeter, we install the CD carrier profile, leaving no gaps. For its installation, driven screws are used, equipped with the same size plastic dowels with a “collar”. Their size is 6×40 mm. If the wall is loose, you need to use longer screws and dowels. The distance between the fasteners is about 50 cm. The short profile can be extended by inserting a new piece inside the already installed one or using small special extensions for the guide profile inserted into both parts;
• when the guide contour from the UD profile is ready, we proceed to the installation of the supporting part of the structure. First, along the lines on the surface, we fasten metal brackets, which are also called suspensions. For each hanger, two holes must be drilled in the ceiling slab opposite the mounting holes on the hanger. Fixing the suspension to the ceiling should be as rigid as possible. The presence of even a minimal backlash is unacceptable. Suspensions are mounted at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other;
• we install the CD carrier profile inside the guide, exposing its middle under the ceiling marking line. The length of the CD should be a little, 1-1.5 cm, less than the length of the distance between the walls, otherwise the profile cannot be installed without protrusion down or up, which is also not allowed;
• we bend down the strips of all plumb lines by 90 °. You also need to take into account that the marking line, lowered too low, may lead to the fact that the length of the bracket for fixing the CD carrier profile in the bent down state may be insufficient. If you realized this late, the length of the suspensions will have to be increased. If you plan to lower the ceiling low, it is better to buy not standard suspensions, but longer samples;
• we fasten the carrier profile to the hangers with self-tapping screws or short press washers with a drill at the end, having previously placed it along the lower edge of the guide profile. It is most convenient to determine the installation plane using a strong thread stretched across the room and a long rule. Each suspension is screwed with four self-tapping screws: two on each side.

For a conventional ceiling, the frame can also be made of wooden beams. You just need to be sure that it will not be exposed to moisture and other deformations. The beam used for mounting the frame must be dry, otherwise it is possible that the finished structure will begin to deform after the wooden frame dries. For reliability, the tree is pre-treated with a moisture-proof compound and dried.

Perhaps this is the main thing you need to know about the installation of the frame of a single-level drywall coating shown below in the photo.

Drywall processing

At the edges of the plasterboard, where there is no technological recess for applying putty, it is necessary to chamfer at an angle of 45 ° using a special planer for drywall. This can be done after installing the ceiling, but processing the installed sheet is more difficult, and debris flying down can get into your eyes.

On a note: Cutting drywall is easiest on a flat surface. To cut a whole sheet first along a rule, ruler or other flat object used in cutting, draw a knife, cutting through the outer layer of paper. Then, lifting the sheet, you just need to break it along the cut line.

Usually this is done without difficulty, and the fracture is straight. Now it remains only to cut the second side of the paper with a knife, keeping the sheet from falling or shifting.

Fixing drywall sheets

To reduce the load on the frame structure, it is better to use gypsum boards 9.5 mm thick for sheathing the frame. The fewer fragments will be used, the fewer seams will have to be sealed. A construction made with a minimum number of seams is more durable, and the likelihood of cracks on it is minimized.

Let's take into account some tips to help you fix drywall:

• fastening work is best done with a partner, since it is very problematic to independently perform high-quality fastening of a heavy plate. When lifting up, the plate must be held on both sides in order to avoid its fracture in the middle;
• to fasten one whole sheet of GKL, about 60 self-tapping screws 25-30 mm long are needed;
• so that the self-tapping screws do not break through the plate when screwing in, a bit with a special screw-in depth limiter is used, which does not allow the screw to be sunk deeper than necessary;
• it is better to start fixing the plates from the corner of the room;
• above the short edges of the GKL, which will be joined to other plates, jumpers from the CD profile are installed between the main bearing profiles. I mount them on "crabs" or by cutting out a mounting shelf in the profile, through which the jumper is fixed to the carrier profile with "bug" screws;
• the plates of the next row are stacked apart. This is necessary to avoid the formation of continuous transverse cracks in case of slight surface vibrations under the influence of external factors, for example, vibrations generated by street transport;
• it is better not to join the plates too tightly, since the subsequent, high-quality filling of the joints with putty will only strengthen the seams.

The ceiling is now ready for grouting and finishing.

As can be seen from many photos, a well-finished simple plasterboard ceiling looks just exceptional. It remains to finish the design of the room, picking up good wallpaper and reliable flooring.

Related videos

To create a plasterboard ceiling in a room, you need to make a metal frame. This article describes the detailed work steps on how to make a frame from a profile for. The work requires accuracy and precision. The algorithm of actions should be performed in stages to obtain a solid frame base and a beautiful plasterboard ceiling.

Each stage of the work performed on the installation of the frame includes a number of rules, and also has the nuances of the work.

Tools

When purchasing all materials, a purchase of 10% more than the amount received is required.

Step by step ceiling work

The entire production process of a single-level plasterboard ceiling is divided into stages. The strength of a plasterboard single-level ceiling depends on each action performed.

Preparatory work

To mount the frame of a plasterboard ceiling, you should first of all prepare the room and the surface. Furniture is removed from the room, and interior items that interfere with the installation process are removed. After that, drywall sheets should be brought into the room to adapt the environment - temperature, humidity.

In order to prepare the surface, the draft ceiling should be brought into the proper form:

Preparatory work should be carried out, since the fungus easily passes to the plasterboard, the fallen off plaster will make the plasterboard structure heavier, which threatens with deformation and cracks.

Drawing. Taking measurements

After the preparatory work has been carried out, you should take a sheet of paper, or even better 2. The surface of the ceiling with protruding corners (if any) is first drawn on the sheet. Next, with a meter, a tape measure measures the perimeter of the ceiling. The data obtained for each wall is recorded on the drawing.

Do not neglect millimeters, do rounding. In the process of mounting a metal frame, this plays a role. The size must be written exactly, say, 2.156 meters.

Next, you need to measure the height of each corner of the room. You need to find the lowest position of the draft ceiling. The drawing shows a low point. After that, the markup is marked on the paper, according to which the profile will be mounted.

There are 2 types of frame for a single-level ceiling. In the first form, ceiling profiles are mounted - a transverse frame. The second type includes jumpers - a cellular metal base.

The scheme of finishing the ceiling with plasterboard

The transverse frame involves the installation of a PP (CD) ceiling profile every 40 cm. At the same time, jumpers, as well as crabs, are not needed. Drywall in this case is applied perpendicular to the ceiling profile.

The cellular frame is a metal crate of cells of the ceiling profile. Here the CD is installed every 60 cm, and jumpers every 50 cm.

The places of the ceiling profile are marked on the drawing, depending on the choice of the type of frame base. And also it should be noted places for suspensions. Basically, they are attached along the PP line at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The suspension should not coincide with the intersection of the jumper and the profile. There will be a connector crab.

The drawing should accurately display the boundaries of the joints of the GKL sheet. From this it will be seen in more detail what distance between suspensions and jumpers, crabs should be maintained.

Electrical wiring for lighting is drawn on the second sheet of paper. Depending on the selected lighting fixtures, there will be a selected type of electrical circuit (parallel, serial connection).

Marking on the surface

Marking is an important responsible process. The strength of the structure, the single plane of the ceiling (in two-dimensional space) will depend on this.

Marking begins with drawing strictly horizontal lines along the wall. To do this, take the smallest point from the ceiling (it is marked in the drawing) and mark this point along the entire perimeter. To achieve perfect evenness, a laser level is used.

drawn horizontal line for the guide ceiling profile

If not, then the water level. Lines around the perimeter are made with upholstery cord. If it is not there, then a pencil and a ruler (meter).

Further, lines, points are applied to the rough surface. The first line on the ceiling from the wall for the ceiling profile is drawn at a distance of 0.25 m. And so on to the opposite wall. Places for suspensions are marked on these lines. The distance between the suspensions is 40-60 cm. It depends on the material from which this element is made. If the suspension is thin and soft, then they should be fixed more often.

marking for the installation of metal profiles

For a cellular frame, markings should be made for jumpers. Since the ceiling profile is located at a distance of 60 cm from each other, then the jumpers are placed at the same distance from each other. 25 cm away from the wall.

There is one nuance here - the suspensions should not fall into the attachment point of the crab (the connection of the profiles is cross-shaped).

Markup for lighting fixtures

When marking profiles, you should immediately mark the location of the lighting fixtures. This is required so that the wiring and fixtures do not touch the metal profiles, in order to avoid, in the future, a short circuit in the electrical network.

Marking on the ceiling is an important stage of work. In the process of drawing lines, every detail is important. In this case, the drawing should be at hand in order to know the measurements (steps) between profiles, suspensions.

Installation of a single-level ceiling frame

To create a frame base for a plasterboard ceiling, you should follow the algorithm of actions. Ideally, first attach the hangers, and then the guide profiles.

First step. Installation of a ceiling guide profile on the ceiling under plasterboard

First thing . To do this, a tape is glued to the back of the profile from the back. Then it starts applying it to the markup. It is required that the drawn line pass along the edge of the profile (from the outer or inner side - depends on the height of the mounted frame), but not in the middle of the profile. Through the PNP, through holes are made for dowel-nails. The first hole should be 5-10 cm from the edge. Each subsequent dowel will be located at a distance of 25-40 cm. The guide profiles are placed in a "butt" to each other if the length of the room is more than 3 meters. In the corner, the profile is inserted into a fixed one and fixed with a dowel-nail.

Second step. Suspension fastening.

Hangers are attached according to the markup. This element of the frame takes on most of the load of the entire ceiling. For reliable fixation, it is required to make holes with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 40 mm according to the marks on the rough base. further, a suspension is applied to these holes. Dowel-wedges are inserted into the ears of the frame element and clogged.

Third step. How to fix a plasterboard ceiling profile to the ceiling

The ceiling profile PP (CD) for drywall is inserted into the guide from 2 sides, and fixed with small self-tapping screws (seeds). Ideally, use a cutter.

The pitch of the profile for drywall to the ceiling is indicated on the marking of the rough base is 60 cm. Next, you need to pull the thread through the entire plane being formed and, using it, fix the profile in hangers. The edges of the elements are bent in different directions.

In addition to the thread, a rule is used. It will show where the deflection occurred or the profile was pulled high to the rough base.

Fourth step. Jumpers

Jumpers are cut from PP (aka CD) profile of such a size that they fit exactly into the marked places. They are fixed to the ceiling profiles with crabs.

The frame from the profile for drywall to the ceiling is assembled. The last stage is a control check for the evenness of the created plane, the rigidity of the structure. A rule is best suited for checking evenness. They check a single plane in all directions. The rigidity of the structure is checked by "staggering" of the elements. All parts of the metal frame must be firmly fixed. So that nothing creaks anywhere, does not stagger.

Electrical wiring

Layed wires must be in the corrugation. This is necessary in order to avoid contact with the metal elements of the profile. At the place of installation of the lamp, the wire must be left free 15-20 cm. After laying all the wires, insulate the wires. And you can not connect the power supply until all installation work is completed.

Fifth step. Installation of drywall sheets

Plasterboard sheets begin to be laid to the side, based on the type of frame base. The first sheet of drywall is fixed in the corner without cutting. Fastening drywall to the ceiling is carried out on profiles (the length of the self-tapping screw depends on the thickness of the plasterboard). You need to step back 2 cm from the edge of the sheet and screw the screw at low speed with a screwdriver. The step between the fasteners is up to 15 cm. It is not worth screwing the fastener too deeply. This will damage the GCR.

The sheets must be fixed in a checkerboard pattern so that the horizontal borders do not match. Thus, another factor of structural strength is achieved. If necessary, a drywall sheet is cut.

A chamfer is created on the cut front side. A self-tapping screw from a homemade chamfer is screwed 5 cm from the edge. At the place of installation of lamps in drywall, a hole with a diameter equal to the lamp (spot) is made in advance. The frame base is sheathed with plasterboard.

Last step. Finishing

All joints on the drywall surface must be covered. But, first, the surface is primed. The joints of drywall are primed especially carefully, without gaps.

Reinforcement is done with a special tape and putty. The same mixture of putty closes all fasteners. After that, the surface is completely putty for further finishing.

Installing a metal frame for a ceiling of one level from GKL is not difficult. The main factor is the step-by-step instructions that should be followed, as well as familiarize yourself with all the rules and nuances in order to avoid mistakes and deformation of the ceiling structure in the future.

Today we will learn how to make a single-level plasterboard ceiling. We have to find out from what and in what order the ceiling frame is assembled, how the plasterboard is attached to it and how the resulting structure is prepared for painting. But first, a few words about the functionality of this solution.

Why drywall

Plasterboard single-level ceilings make it possible to:

• Hide absolutely any height differences and overlap defects;

• Do without ground preparation. Sealing joints between slabs, preliminary and other so-called wet work is not needed;

However: in a humid room, the floor should be pre-primed with an antiseptic primer. It will exclude the defeat of the ceiling by fungus in conditions of limited ventilation.

• . What is especially pleasant, unlike alternative solutions - PVC stretch film and plastic panels - drywall, which is not afraid of heating, does not limit their power and heat release. At the same time, the luminaires are mounted directly into the cutouts in the plasterboard, and not on the mounting platforms, as in the case of a stretch ceiling;

• Concealedly spread communications of any section- from wiring to ventilation.

At the same time, GKL is not afraid of moderate mechanical impacts (unlike), does not burn and does not support combustion in case of fire, does not emit toxic substances when heated (another hairpin in the direction of polyvinyl chloride decomposing at temperatures above 120 ° C) and is completely odorless. The only disadvantage of GKL (including moisture resistant) is a complex relationship with water. Flooding by neighbors will mean at least cosmetic repairs for you.

Glue or crate

Single-level plasterboard ceilings can be mounted in two ways:

1. On glue. In this role, a dry gypsum mixture (for example, Volma installation or Knauf Pearlfix), polyurethane mounting foam or liquid nails can be used;

1. On the crate. It can be assembled from a bar or a galvanized thin-walled (0.4-0.7 mm) U-shaped profile.

The first method of installing GKL practically does not reduce the final height of the room, but has several very significant drawbacks:

• For obvious reasons, we are not talking about the hidden wiring of engineering systems - there is simply no free space left for it;
• Built-in lamps willy-nilly have to be replaced with overhead or pendant;

• Fastening drywall to glue is possible only to an almost even horizontal overlap (which, by the way, is much easier to prepare for painting by applying a thin layer of putty);
• During the drying of the glue, the sheet must be securely fixed, which is not easy to do on a horizontal surface of the ceiling.

That is why, in the vast majority of cases, the GKL is mounted on the ceiling crate.

Bar or profile

What is better to choose as the material of the crate - a bar or a profile?

At the same time, it hopelessly loses to galvanization in terms of:

• Geometry. The profile is always perfectly straight. A bar rarely has a perfect geometry and always needs careful sorting;
• Moisture resistance. Humidity fluctuations cause the wooden crate to warp, decorating your ceiling with ugly cracks;

• resistance to biological influences. Mold and insects somehow do not really like dessert made of galvanized steel, but they willingly feast on wood.

What to buy

What materials are needed in order to assemble a single-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands?

Image	Description
	Drywall (white for dry rooms and green for wet rooms - bathroom, toilet or kitchen). For ceiling mounting, thinner (9.5 mm) and cheaper plasterboard ceilings are usually used. The total area of ​​​​the material should be 10% greater than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
	. Their size is 60x27 millimeters. It is desirable that the length of the profiles (3 or 4 meters) be at least equal to one of the dimensions of the room: then you can do without their longitudinal connections. The number of profiles is selected for a step between them of 600 mm.
	PNP profiles (ceiling guides). Size - 27x28 mm. The total length of the PNP should slightly exceed the perimeter of the ceiling.
	Hangers. With a moderate distance from the crate to the ceiling (within 100 mm), direct suspensions are used, with a larger distance - adjustable, with knitting needles.
	Anchor wedges 6x40. They allow you to securely fasten hangers on hollow core slabs.
	Dowel-nails 6x60. They, along with anchors, can be used to fasten PNP guides to main walls.
	Self-tapping screws for sheet metal 9 mm long are needed for assembling the crate - connecting profiles with suspensions and with each other.
	Longer, 25 mm self-tapping screws for gypsum boards are used to fasten the material to the assembled crate.
	Serpyanka (the so-called narrow fiberglass mesh with an adhesive coating on one side) is useful for reinforcing seams. Without reinforcement, after 1-2 years they will be decorated with cracks.
	Gypsum putty is needed in order to hide the seams and fasteners.
	The acrylic primer should prepare the surface for painting or wallpapering, reducing its absorbency and gluing the dust remaining on the GKL surface.
	A baguette (foam or polyurethane) will allow you to arrange the adjoining of the ceiling to the walls.
	Liquid nails or acrylic putty are needed to stick a baguette.

Please note: the baguette is glued after finishing the ceiling (painting or wallpapering). Its choice and fastening is a topic for a separate article, so we will not touch on this stage of finishing.

Tools

In addition to the simplest hand tools (hammer, tape measure, ruler, etc.), you will need:

• Level (ideally - laser or water) and paint cord. In a small room, they can be replaced by a building level with a long section of the profile screwed to it with adhesive tape;

• Perforator and 6mm drill to it. We emphasize that it is a perforator: drilling holes in floor slabs with a drill (including a percussion one) is more than a dubious pleasure;
• A screwdriver with a Phillips bit (preferably with a screw-in depth limiter). It is very difficult to screw a self-tapping screw into a profile with a screwdriver, and when it comes to several hundred self-tapping screws ... It seems that we can not continue;

• Metal scissors. We will cut the profile with them;
• Sharp knife;
• Grater or grinder and sanding meshes (usually use #80 meshes for coarse grinding and #120-160 for final grinding);
• If it will be necessary to cut holes in the ceiling for hatches for servicing engineering networks or lamps - an electric jigsaw and a wood file.

However: it is more convenient to cut round holes with a crown of the appropriate size.

Getting Started

So, everything is ready to get to work. Where to begin?

Assembly of the crate

1. Mark the mounting height of the guide on the wall (read - the lower level of the crate). If there are no special requirements for the distance between the ceiling and the GKL (for example, when installing bulky sockets of built-in lamps for halogen lamps or with hidden ventilation wiring), the distance from the markup to the lower point of the ceiling is equal to the width of the PNP - 27 millimeters;
2. Perform level marking of the PNP attachment line around the entire perimeter of the room. When using a water level, the marks are transferred to all corners, after which the line is beaten off along them with a masking cord;

1. Fix the PNP profile according to the markup just made. Separate profiles are mounted end-to-end or with a slight approach to each other. The step between the dowel-nails is 50 centimeters, you can drill holes for them directly through the profile;

1. Mark the position of the batten profiles on the ceiling. A distance of 600 millimeters is measured between the longitudinal axes of the profiles. With such a distance, a sheet with a width of 1200 mm falls with its edges on the middle of the PP profiles;
2. Along the marking lines applied to the surface of the overlap, fasten the suspensions in increments of 600-800 mm;

1. Alternately insert the ends into the guides, cut to the size of the PP room, and press them to the ceiling, bending and interlocking the ears of the suspensions;
2. Pull one or two cords across the PP between the guide profiles. They will help you set the entire crate strictly horizontally;
3. Release the profiles one by one from the hangers, align them with the laces and fix them by screwing the hanger ears to the side walls of the profile. The free part of each ear then folds up;

1. Lastly, connect the ends of the PCB to the guides.

GKL cutting

Cutting curved parts and cutting holes with a jigsaw do not require comments.

However, the jigsaw raises a large amount of gypsum dust into the air, which is not so good for the respiratory system and eyes. That is why it is better not to cut along the straight lines of the GKL, but to break it along the incisions previously made with a knife.

Here is a step-by-step instruction for cutting GKL:

1. Lay the sheet on a flat hard base;
2. Mark the cutting line (you can simply put a few marks on it, the distance between which is less than the length of the ruler you have);
3. Align the risks and press the ruler, then draw drywall on it several times with a knife;

1. Lay the GKL with an incision on the edge of any elevation (countertops, cabinets, scaffolding, stacks of drywall) and press on the hanging edge. The sheet will break off along the notch;
2. Cut off the back of the cardboard and, if necessary, trim the edge with a knife or planer.

Ceiling filing

Each sheet (whole or cut in place) is fastened with self-tapping screws screwed in increments of 150-200 millimeters so that the cap is recessed into the top layer of cardboard, but does not break through the GKL shell.

It is necessary to fasten the sheet to all profiles that are blocked by them - ceiling and guides. At the same time, it is undesirable to screw in the screws closer than a couple of centimeters from the edge: it is likely to crumble.

An important point: all adjacent edges of the GKL must be attached to a common profile. In this case, the probability of cracking is sharply reduced. Where there is no crate, a piece of PP is hemmed from the back of one sheet, after which the edge of the second is attached to it.

In most cases, the filing of the GKL to the crate is carried out by at least two people: it is impossible to hold a full-size sheet above your head, align and screw it at the same time.

Is it possible to install drywall on the ceiling alone?

Notwithstanding the above, yes. Here are some ways:

• Purchase not full-size sheets of 2500 or 3000 by 1200 millimeters, but additional ones (1200x600). Of course, in this case, you will have to reinforce and putty more seams;
• Build a stand from improvised material that allows you to hold one edge of the sheet at ceiling level;

• Screw a pair of PP profiles to the crate with long self-tapping screws so that there is a gap of 3-5 centimeters between them and the crate. By laying a sheet on the profiles, you can align it and fix it without someone else's help.

putty

After filing the GKL, the appearance of the room remains rather unattractive: open seams and fasteners remain in sight. How are single-level plasterboard ceilings prepared for painting?

The seams are glued with a sickle and putty in two layers: the first fills the seam, the second covers the reinforcing material.

As always, the details matter:

• Before puttying, you need to chamfer the edges formed when cutting the GKL. Jointing will allow the putty to penetrate into the depth of the seam;

• Putty is prepared in small portions - it is suitable for application from 30 to 45 minutes after mixing;
• Dishes and tools should be washed before each batch of plaster is mixed. Being too lazy to do this, you will get lumps of set gypsum in the putty and furrows in the ceiling finish;
• If, after puttying, the seams stand out on the ceiling due to reinforcement, apply another millimeter layer over the entire surface of the drywall;

• If the ceiling is pasted over with vinyl or glass wallpaper, the seams can not be reinforced: the functions of the sickle will be performed by the wallpaper, which prevents cracks from reaching the surface.

Grinding

Grinding removes putty flaws and is performed after the gypsum has completely dried (that is, not earlier than a day after the ceiling is puttyed).

There are just a couple of subtleties here:

1. Goggles and a gauze bandage or respirator are highly desirable. Believe me, getting plaster in the eyes and lungs is a very unpleasant thing;
2. You need to grind in the brightest possible light (daylight or artificial). Light should fall on the ceiling at an oblique angle. In this case, the shadows cast by the irregularities will not allow you to miss the defects when grinding.

The final stage of preparation for painting or sticking ceiling wallpaper is a primer. The soil is applied in one layer after cleaning the stream from dust with a vacuum cleaner or a whisk.

Conclusion

As you can see, all stages of work are quite feasible for a beginner and do not require significant experience. The attached video will help you learn more about how to make a beautiful drywall ceiling. Good luck!

Repair of interiors in a residential building, in an office or in a city apartment today is carried out on the basis of new technologies, where the main focus is on modern materials. Among the finishing materials, one of the main places in the interior design is occupied by gypsum boards. This material is unique in its technological properties and universal in its application. Due to its high technological characteristics, GKL is actively used in the decoration of ceilings. The most common type of ceiling design is considered to be single-level plasterboard ceilings. This technology is simple and clear enough to do everything by hand.

How a beautiful plasterboard suspended ceiling is made, and what materials are used for this, are the main aspects of this article. Having become acquainted in detail with all the subtleties and nuances of installation work, you can proceed directly to the implementation of the project.

What tasks does drywall used for finishing ceilings solve?

The use of drywall in finishing ceiling work is due to a number of reasons, each of which has a place in interior decoration. We often have to deal with the fact that there is an urgent need to level the existing ceiling surfaces. Ceilings are often not in perfect condition. We have to deal with technological and structural defects of the floors. Sometimes the old coating on the ceilings has already lost its attractiveness and relevance. There is an urgent need to quickly and least labor to eliminate the existing shortcomings.

In addition, in the process of repairing the apartment, technological innovations appear that carry a certain burden. Under the ceilings are the main intra-house communications. This includes the ventilation system, electrical wiring and communication lines. There is a natural desire to hide and disguise the main technological nodes and communications.

Finally, finishing work today is more focused on creating an interesting interior, so the desire to make the ceiling structure non-standard and original is quite justified. To create a visual zoning of the internal space, to move away from the traditional central arrangement of lamps, the installation of lamps for decorative lighting will allow.

All of these problems can be solved in stages, using old and proven technologies. However, today it is possible to cope with technical problems of this kind simply and easily by building a single-level beautiful and original plasterboard ceiling. To get the desired result, it is enough to have an idea about the technology of laying drywall on ceilings, consumables in the right amount and the necessary working tools.

On a note: in preparation for installation work, you will have to deal with GKL of standard sizes. Sheets can be 2.5 - 4.8 m long and 1.2 m wide. The thickness of the sheets varies between 8-24 mm.

Before starting installation work, you should make simple mathematical calculations, saving yourself from unnecessary expenses. According to experts, for interior finishing work with ceilings, it is recommended to use a gypsum board with a thickness of 8-9 mm. For the kitchen and rooms with high humidity, a moisture-resistant material is taken, which has the corresponding GKLV marking.

Important! Try to purchase drywall boards from reputable manufacturers and specialized retail outlets. Poor-quality drywall will not last long, causing a lot of trouble even during installation work.

Having figured out what material and how much it will be needed to decorate the ceiling surfaces, you can proceed directly to work.

Preparation for installation of single-level ceilings. Technical subtleties and nuances

If you know how to handle a screwdriver and a tape measure, you have an idea of ​​​​how to work with a grinder, you can make single-level plasterboard ceilings yourself. And quite acceptable quality.

When planning such a reconstruction, you immediately solve the questions you are facing:

• level the ceiling to a perfectly flat state;
• hide cords, cables and pipes;
• prepare the technological base for the installation of new fixtures.

When working with drywall, you should adhere to certain requirements, technical subtleties and nuances. Despite this, working with drywall is a pleasure. A small dent on the front surface of the sheet is easily removed during the subsequent puttying of the finished ceiling. The material is easy to cut and fits perfectly on the prepared frame. However, there are some limitations in this case. Single-level ceilings, built on the basis of a metal frame, significantly reduce the height of the premises.

Important! For small apartments, it is not recommended to lower the ceilings by more than 10 cm. As a rule, suspended single-level systems are designed to lower the height of the room by only 5-7 cm.

Another important aspect is the conditions under which the ceiling surface will be installed. Ceilings should be dealt with after the walls have already been put in order and the installation of window and door openings has been completed. Why? The thing is that during the subsequent installation of doors and windows, movements and shaking are possible, which can adversely affect the integrity of the drywall surface. The finished walls are a guideline for the subsequent installation of the frame and the laying of cut pieces of plasterboard.

Upon completion of the finishing work inside the room, a certain microclimate should be established. Drywall is very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and humidity levels. In the warm season, try to avoid drafts, but in winter, before starting work, it is better to stock up on a heater.

Installation of a single-level ceiling. Stages of work

Any installation work begins with a selection of tools. In order for everything to go smoothly and according to the knurled scheme, you will need:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• mounting knife;
• roulette;
• building level;
• sandpaper.

With this set, you can cope with the task on your own. Of the consumables, it is necessary to purchase a starting, longitudinal and bearing profile. Self-tapping screws, crabs and dowels are used as fastening equipment. Finishing work consists in filling the places of fastening of sheets and in sealing joints.

The first stage is the installation of profiles

In order to build a single-level ceiling of excellent quality from plasterboard, beautiful and original, with your own hands, all subsequent actions must be done in stages. Ceiling work begins in a prepared room with the installation of profiles. These elements of the future design must be installed around the entire perimeter of the room, strictly observing the horizontal position. Starting from the lowest section of the base ceiling surface, a control line is drawn using the level. This mark, relative to which the profiles will be mounted in the future. We use galvanized CD profiles and UD starting profiles.

With the help of a grinder, fragments of profiles of certain sizes are cut and installed along the outlined line around the entire perimeter of the room. Dowels are used for mounting metal profiles in concrete or brick walls. The step between the attachment points should not be more than 30-40 cm.

The second stage is the installation of suspensions and guides

Having coped with the installation of guide profiles, you can proceed to the installation of suspensions. The marking of the ceiling in this case is carried out taking into account the location of the guide profiles. The quality of laying pieces of drywall depends on how the guides are installed.

Important! at each stage, try to check the horizontal level of the installed part with a level. All suspensions and guides must be in the same plane, without sudden changes in height.

The guides should be laid in such a way that when installing the GKL sheets, the bearing elements fall on the central part of the sheet and reach its edges.

Having made the markup, start installing the suspensions. These structural elements should be fixed to the draft ceiling surface only with dowels. Otherwise, with insufficient fastener strength, the risk of collapse of the finished ceiling structure increases. Hangers are not fixed tightly. There should be a slight backlash, which will allow the cut pieces of drywall to be freely attached to the guides in the future.

After the hangers are fixed, mount the profiles. For this purpose, a certain distance must be observed. Longitudinal profiles are fixed at a distance of 40cm from each other. Cross profiles are already mounted at a distance of 60 cm from each other. When the installation of the frame is completed, you can proceed to intermediate technological work.

To fill the interceiling space in order to increase sound and heat insulation, mineral wool is usually laid.

Important! All wires and cables passing under the ceiling are recommended to be laid in special corrugated fireproof channels. Prepare the connectors in the places where the fixtures are connected.

The third stage - the installation of drywall

It should be said that a properly mounted frame is the key to the success of all work when equipping single-level plasterboard ceilings. The horizontality of the entire structure is one of the main conditions. If these requirements are not met, distortion may occur and, accordingly, the new ceiling surface may crack. This will be due to the fact that drywall does not tolerate dynamic stress very well.

GKL pieces cut to size are treated on both sides with a primer solution. This is done to increase the stability of the entire array to external influences. The sheets are laid across the longitudinal profiles. Do not forget that it is necessary to leave a technological gap of 3-5 mm near the wall itself. Installation always starts from the corner and the wall opposite the entrance to the room. The gap between the ceiling and walls is needed due to the fact that the new ceiling will definitely breathe, acclimatizing to new conditions.

On a note: self-tapping screws are used for fixing sheets of GKL. The fastener is screwed into the plane of the sheet in such a way that the cap is recessed and does not protrude. The subsequent quality of the surface depends on this.

Drywall sheets should be fastened in 20mm increments. The minimum step is 15cm. The maximum allowable joint width between pieces of drywall is 2.5 mm. The thinner the seam, the easier it is to putty in the future. When installing drywall, immediately make holes for lighting fixtures.

Conclusion

After completing the installation of drywall on the frame, you get an almost finished new ceiling. Now you can not see any irregularities and defects. All communications are successfully hidden, the ground has been prepared for the installation of lighting equipment. There are no particular difficulties in this work. The only thing that requires the installation of single-level ceilings is the sequence of each stage and compliance with the technology. Let's summarize. Single-level ceilings made of plasterboard are:

1. Always comfortable, fashionable and stylish;
2. A quick way to eliminate defects on ceilings, hide communications and equip a new type of lighting;
3. Strong and stable frame for the suspension system;
4. Convenient and clear way of laying;
5. Practical, durable and easy to use ceiling surface.