Plasterboard structures on the ceiling. DIY plasterboard structures on the ceiling

Plasterboard is the best modern material for decorating walls and ceilings, erecting partitions, creating arches, niches in absolutely any room, both in the bathroom and in your living room. It is difficult to imagine a modern design without drywall, because in two or three days you can sheathe a spacious room on your own, easily coping with irregularities, ledges and cracks in the walls. In this article, we will tell you about the construction of a plasterboard ceiling.

Suspended ceiling on a metal frame

A plasterboard suspended ceiling is one of the most affordable variations to improve the sound insulation of ceilings and walls, to emphasize the design of the living room or to make the ceiling perfectly flat.

A single or multi-level plasterboard suspended ceiling can be mounted on a metal frame. This option is one of the most widespread and popular all over the world. Metal profiles allow you to assemble any composition or figure, and the simplicity and simplicity of installation of suspended ceilings provides a chance to do this even for novice craftsmen. Such a ceiling will add a unique design to any room. No special instructions are required for this.

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Materials used for the assembly of suspended ceiling structures

For the construction of a suspended ceiling in the living room, you can purchase ready-made ceiling modules or special ceiling sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of 8 mm, as well as a guide profile with a section of 27 × 28 mm and a rack profile with a section of 60 × 27 mm.

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Tools required for mounting the metal frame and fixing drywall:

screws or nails;
dowels;
metal mounting brackets;
construction knife for cutting;
hammer;
putty knife;
electric drill;
a set of screwdrivers with a straight and cross-shaped notch;
scissors for metal;
screwdriver;
laser level;
tape measure and pencil.

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Ceiling marking instructions

The work on arranging a false ceiling should begin with determining the exact dimensions of the ceiling in order to calculate the required material.
It is necessary to choose the design of the ceilings, to determine how far from the base overlap of the living room the new ceiling will drop. Having decided on the distance from the base overlap and finding the most underestimated angle, it is necessary to mark the risk on the wall, all other marks will be made from it.

Using a laser level at a height, mark the risks on the walls of the room with an even horizontal line along its entire perimeter - these are the boundaries of the ceiling, or the depth to which it will sink below the base overlap. Usually the value is 10-20 cm, but not less than 3-4 cm. Closer to the base ceiling, you should not make a mark, there will be a problem with the installation of suspensions. This clearance will make it easier to make new wiring. This is the first mark equal to the future ceiling height. Mark the horizontal line on the wall with a pencil.

A guide profile will then be attached along this line, therefore, its marking should be taken with due attention, the evenness of future suspended ceilings depends on it. When using the usual level, it should be borne in mind that it gives a small error. An indicator of the correctness of the layout will be the perfect coincidence of the horizontal line at the start and end points.
Next, you need to mark the ceiling for the main guides, first mark the center of the room - this will be an axis, in all directions from which you will then need to draw parallel lines at a distance of half a sheet of drywall.

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Calculation and planning of work

Before proceeding with the installation of ceiling profiles, it is advisable to draw up a design of the future structure on paper in the form of a sketch with all the necessary dimensions. When drawing up a design project, applying dimensions and cutting, it is necessary to constantly take into account the thickness of the sheet.

The simplest is the design and installation of a single-level ceiling, when all profiles should be mounted on the same level. The calculation is not difficult to perform, this does not require special skills. The ceiling design can be either single-level or multi-level. Having understood the technology of installing a simple single-level suspended ceiling, it will not be difficult to assimilate information on how to assemble a multi-level ceiling.

The metal frame for attaching drywall to the ceiling is usually made from a metal profile with a cross section of 60 × 27 and 27 × 28 mm.

The installation of the frame should be started by attaching the wall-mounted plinth-corner. It has the form of a rail 3 m long; for this purpose, you can use a metal profile with a section of 28 × 27 mm. It must be fixed along the perimeter of the room strictly horizontally along a predetermined line. The recommended pitch for fixing the plinth-angle is 400 mm. To mount the vertical step, place the vertical frame posts at the required distance from the wall and fasten them 30-40 cm apart.

The next stage of installation is the installation of straight suspensions, on which a profile with a cross section of 60 × 27 mm will be fixed, on which a sound-proof tape must first be glued. The profile can be fixed with ceiling dowels in increments of 2 pieces for each linear m. The number of direct suspensions can be calculated using the simplest formula: divide the ceiling area by the slab area and divide the resulting amount by 2. When installing a suspended ceiling, on average, 2-4 suspensions are required for each rail ... The fixing of the hangers must be carried out at the points of intersection with the intermediate guides according to the project, using metal anchors with a head diameter of at least 13 mm. It is advisable to maintain a distance of 1000 mm between the anchor dowels.

After that, you should proceed with the suspension of the main guides. The 3.6 m long rail is the end of the main rail, it must be cut so that the 1.2 m long rail, which is the intermediate rail, can enter the main groove for a distance equal to the length of the corresponding extreme plate. At the same time, with its cut edge, the main guide should rest on the backsplash corner. It is recommended to install an additional suspension in the places of their connection. The main and intermediate guides must be connected using self-tapping screws (3.5 × 25).

Then you need to hang the main guides so that the joint of the main and intermediate guides is at right angles. Completing this part of the work, you need to fix the intermediate guides. Observing an interval equal to the width of the slab, we insert them between the main bearing rails. The intermediate guides at the joints with the wall baseboard must be cut to size so that one end of them, which should lie clearly, can be inserted into the wall baseboard corner, and the other end - into the groove of the main guide. If the design of the ceilings in the structure has radial curves, they should be mounted using a special profile with horizontal notches.

These notches are designed specifically to bend the profile to the desired radius. In order to eliminate errors in the radii of curvature and to make all the corners the same, you should compare each subsequent bent profile with the first and fit it exactly according to the first.

Installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling is a very demanding job, which in most cases is better to be entrusted to specialists. But if you are confident in your abilities, but do not know how to make a drywall structure on the ceiling with your own hands, our article is for you.

Preparing for installation

So, ceiling structures made of plasterboard are mounted in a room with plastered and plastered walls after finishing puttying.

Tools and materials

To construct a false ceiling, you will need:

drywall sheets 9.5-12.5 mm thick; the volume of the material is determined based on the complexity of the composition and the number of levels, it is also necessary to provide for a small excess (1-2 sheets);
guide profile(UD);
ceiling profile(CD);
profile extensions;
special connectors- one-level and two-level;
suspensions- straight and anchor (with wire traction);
dowel-nails- will be needed to connect the guide profile to the wall and attach straight hangers;
wedge anchor- will be used as fasteners for straight and anchor hangers;
self-tapping screws size 3.5 x 11 mm;
self-tapping screws 3.5 x 25 mm - for a single-level suspended ceiling, but if the structure is multi-level, purchase longer self-tapping screws;
reinforcing paper to strengthen the joints;
putty(like Uniflot).

Construction tool for working with drywall:

hydro level (spirit level) 2 m long or laser level;
a rule with a length of 2 m;
tape measure 5 m long;
puncher;
screwdriver;
cutters, through which holes will be cut in sheets of drywall for lamps;
planer - for processing cut edges of plasterboard sheets;
spatulas - for making chamfers;
construction knife;
square;
grater and sanding mesh - for processing filled areas.

Advice! For a high-quality execution of a suspended ceiling, it is also desirable to have at least meager experience with plasterboard structures and a sufficient margin of patience.

Marking and construction of the frame

Ceiling markings and erection of the frame system are carried out in accordance with the following rules:

For the installation of the entire structure, it is necessary to pre-mark the zero level. The laser or hydro level will help you with this.
Marking is applied to the walls along the entire perimeter of the room - a perfectly straight continuous line along which the guide profile (UD) will be attached.
The connection of profiles is carried out end-to-end, the insertion of one profile into another is prohibited.
To make the construction made of drywall of high quality, a distance of 600 mm is provided between the bearing profiles, because the drywall is attached to them in such a way that the joint of the sheets is in the middle of the profile. It is also necessary to note the distance from the walls to the first and last profiles - 100-150 mm.
The bearing profiles must be in the same plane with the guides, which is checked by a two-meter building level. The profiles are fixed to the ceiling with anchor and straight hangers.

It is important that the joining of adjacent gypsum plasterboard sheets does not occur along the same line, therefore, their fastening is carried out in a checkerboard pattern, and jumpers (sections of the ceiling profile) are fixed between the bearing profiles. Such lintels are installed along the entire ceiling with a pitch of 500 mm. Plasterboard sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the jumpers.
In order to fasten the jumpers and the bearing profile together, it is advisable to use "crabs" (single-level connectors), which are connected with the jumpers and the bearing profiles with self-tapping screws with parameters 3.5 x 11 mm.

As a result of the described activities, the base (frame) of the future ceiling structure is made of plasterboard. Drywall will be attached to it with 3.5 x 25 mm self-tapping screws.

Fastening drywall to the frame

When fastening, the interval between the screws should be no more than 25-30 mm. In this case, screwing in is carried out perpendicular to the ceiling with a slight "sinking" of the heads of the screws in the sheet, but without violating the integrity of the cardboard layer.

When all gypsum plasterboards are fixed to the profiles, the joints and joints with the walls are glued with reinforcing paper (mesh) and putty.

Advantages of plasterboard ceilings

The plasterboard construction on the ceiling has a number of advantages: high aesthetic characteristics, and an improvement in the level of lighting in the room, and an increase in sound insulation. Various utilities can be placed in the space formed by the old ceiling and suspended structure - electric cable, low-current and computer wired networks, ventilation, heating equipment, etc.

In general, the lower the distance between the hangers and the guide profiles, the more load-bearing the suspended ceiling is.

Advice! When purchasing fasteners and profiles for a false ceiling, pay attention to the descriptions of the products by the manufacturers. Here you will find their main characteristics and will be able to determine whether the structure will withstand the weight of the communications that you are going to "hide" in the ceiling structure.

Now you know how to make a single-level false ceiling. If you want to design a second or more backlit levels, thereby giving sophistication and uniqueness to the design, draw a sketch of the future configuration on paper, and then duplicate it on the ceiling. Detailed instructions are described in the article How to make a circle of drywall on the ceiling, secret knowledge.

Smooth curved lines can be made with a ceiling or wall guide profile. At the same time, their side shelves are notched with a step of 3-5 cm and bent according to the project. Then, 9.5 mm thick drywall sheets are attached to the frame of the first and second levels with long self-tapping screws.

With the invention of such building materials as drywall, significant changes took place in the interior design. The creation of suspended ceilings is not particularly difficult if you know the main points and the procedure.

Tools and materials

After the base ceiling is prepared (plastered and putty) and the necessary tools and building materials are available, you can start creating a suspended structure from gypsum plasterboard.

The tools required to complete the work on creating a ceiling system include:

tape measure 5 meters long;

a two-meter building level, preferably a laser or spirit level;

a rule with a length of 2 meters;

screwdriver and hammer drill;

cutters;

plane;

square, construction knife and spatulas;

grinding mesh and grater.

Before starting work, you must purchase in the required quantity:

gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard);

profile UD (guide) and CD (ceiling);

suspensions of two types - anchor and straight;

wedge anchor;

profile extensions;

single-level and double-level connectors;

dowel-nails;

self-tapping screws measuring 3.5 x 11 millimeters and 3.5 x 25 millimeters;

reinforcing paper;

putty.

Note: if the system is multi-level, longer screws will be required.

Layout and wireframing

Ceiling marking and the creation of a suspended frame structure should be carried out in compliance with certain rules.

1. First of all, it is necessary, using a building level (laser or water), to designate the lowest point on the base floor and retreat from the mark at a distance depending on what kind of structure is planned.

2. Marking is applied to the walls along the perimeter of the room, which is a straight continuous line, which will become a reference point for fixing the UD profile. The connection of adjacent planks is performed end-to-end.

3. To create a reliable frame, the distance between the two bearing profiles is no more than 600 millimeters, since the gypsum plasterboards are fixed in such a way that they are joined in the middle of the planks. The gap between the walls and the outer profiles should be approximately 15 centimeters.

4. It is necessary that the bearing and guide profiles are strictly in the same plane - this is controlled by the building level. The profile strips are attached to the ceiling slab with anchor and straight hangers.

5. One of the important points when joining two adjacent sheets of drywall is that this cannot be done along the same line - it is necessary to observe a checkerboard pattern. At the same time, jumpers are installed between the bearing profiles, which are segments of the strips of the SD profile, they are mounted along the entire frame of the ceiling structure with a step of 50 centimeters. The construction of the plasterboard ceiling provides that they are joined in the middle of the lintels.

6. To fasten the jumpers and the bearing profile, it is customary to use single-level connectors, called "crabs" - they are installed using self-tapping screws measuring 3.5 by 11 millimeters. The result is the basis for the future ceiling system. Sheets of finishing material are attached to it with self-tapping screws, measuring 3.5 by 25 millimeters.

7. To give the interior individuality and sophistication, a number of levels are built in the plasterboard structure. Prior to this, a sketch is created, according to which the configuration is displayed on the base ceiling. Curved lines are created using a guide profile, its side shelves are notched every 3-5 centimeters and bent. 9.5 mm drywall sheets are attached to the multi-level frame using long self-tapping screws.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame

During installation, the interval between two screws should not exceed 300 millimeters, screwing is performed perpendicular to the base of the ceiling with a slight immersion of the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall sheet, but without damaging the integrity of the surface layer.

Experts say that cracks often appear. To prevent this, they recommend attaching another layer on top of the first layer. The main condition: the joints between the first and second layer of drywall sheets should not coincide. After completion of the work on fastening the material to the slats of the SD profile, the joints and connections with the walls of the room are glued with a reinforcing mesh (paper) and putty.

Plasterboard construction for stretch ceiling

A traditional stretch ceiling mounted to the walls of the room does not look as impressive as if you install the canvas on a pre-assembled one. Plasterboard construction for a stretch ceiling allows you to embody the original design solution (more: ""). In this case, the distance from the box to the ceiling can be made at your own discretion, depending on the curvature of the ceiling and its height. This is usually about 10 centimeters. with backlight will allow you to enjoy muted soft, decorative lighting from spotlights mounted in drywall.

Lighting creation

A lot has been said about the advantages of suspension systems made of such a finishing material as gypsum plasterboard. It should be noted their excellent appearance, which is confirmed by the available images of plasterboard structures on the ceiling in the photo. Other advantages include increased sound insulation and improved room illumination. When creating a frame between the ceiling and the suspended structure, a free space appears where engineering communications can be placed - water pipes, ventilation system, electrical wiring, etc.

The backlit plasterboard ceiling design has its own characteristics. When attaching various equipment to it, it is required to create special supports in order to transfer the main load from the suspension system to the base floor. The design of the ceiling, created using drywall sheets, is able to withstand the weight of lighting fixtures, which is no more than 3 kilograms, however, experts still recommend mounting spots to load-bearing profiles. Such a suspension system is capable of withstanding the more significant load, the smaller the gap between the UD guide profiles and suspensions.

In order for the design to become reliable, when purchasing a profile and fasteners for creating a frame, you should pay attention to the description of the product by the manufacturer. It contains information regarding their parameters, according to which it is possible to determine how capable the suspension system is to withstand the weight of all communications that are planned to be hidden.

The article describes the rules for installing a gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling. We tried to make a simple technological map, where close attention is paid to the most difficult moments for beginners.

Almost no renovation is now complete without the creation of suspended ceilings. Among all the available cladding options, drywall proved to be the most practical and functional. Using gypsum plasterboard systems, the developer has the opportunity to align the ceiling with any existing curvatures, to lay electrical wiring cables, air ducts and other communications in the space between the ceiling, and to decorate the room with complex spatial forms.

Single-level ceiling

The technology of lining the ceiling on one level has many similarities with plasterboard wall cladding, the same metal profile is used here, the same installation principles are based on. But there are also many differences, we will try not to lose sight of them.

Simple cladding in one tier is used very often, but even if you plan to make a multi-level structure, you first need to make a flat ceiling for the whole room, which will serve as the basis for further add-ons. It rarely happens that the basic sewing is not needed, or it is logical to make it not continuous.

What to do first: walls or ceiling? It is better to deal with the ceiling after the rough finishing of the walls (cladding, plaster), then it is much easier to mark and install a more complex and demanding system in terms of the quality of the plane, which is a plasterboard suspended ceiling. Before starting work on the frame, you should perform some preparatory operations:

Develop drawings of the future complex ceiling and decide on the layout of all sheets and profiles (how the frame is assembled, we will tell you later).
Clean the base from crumbling elements, close up the joints between the plates.
Mark the locations of the lighting fixtures and route the cables to the terminal points.
Completely free the building from building materials.
Assemble the scaffolding with a total horizontal surface area of at least 3 m 2 (as a standard sheet).

Perimeter markings

Our task is to mark on the walls the lines along which we will install the UD-27 starting profile. It will not work to mark a horizontal level immediately under the ceiling - it is too inconvenient, therefore, at an acceptable height (1.5-1.8 m), we will make a control perimeter.

With the help of a laser plane or hydro level (transparent hose filled with water) in each corner of the room we put marks with a pencil, which should be in one, strictly horizontal plane. Each wall should have at least two risks, but we recommend putting one intermediate mark in the middle of the walls. It is not necessary to connect them with a chop cord, but some craftsmen prefer to have solid lines.

Using a tape measure at different points we measure the distance from the control perimeter (from the resulting lines or lines) to the load-bearing ceiling. Where this distance will be the smallest - the lowest point of the base is located, from here we will mark the working perimeter. If it is necessary to squeeze as much as possible against the ceiling, so as not to "eat up" the height of the room by the frame, then we retreat from the base 40 mm (27 mm - UD, 13 mm - stock) and put it at risk. We measure the distance from the risks to the control perimeter. Now, at this distance from the control perimeter, we put other marks (we place them in the corners and in the centers of the walls - similar to the control ones). Under the ceiling with a chopping cord, from corner to corner, draw lines. If you transferred and recaptured everything correctly, then the lines will coincide with the intermediate marks located in the centers of the walls.

Suppose the height of the room is 2.7 meters, we made the control perimeter 1.7 meters from the floor. Measurements showed that we have 1 meter to the most clamped place on the ceiling, minus 40 mm to install the profile - we get 96 cm.As a result, all marks of the working perimeter should be at a distance of 96 cm from the control perimeter.

Please note that in this way we inspect the rough ceiling only near the walls, but sometimes it happens that in the middle of the room there is a "belly" on the ceiling or a "tooth" along the line of joining the slabs. You can identify the problem at an early stage using a rule or by pulling the cord in the plane of the working perimeter (a gap of at least 35-40 mm is required between the thread and the ceiling). If such drops are found, we lower the entire perimeter below. Also, when marking out the perimeter, you should take into account the thickness of the corrugated channel for wires, which can interfere with the alignment of the frame.

Assembling the frame

Setting up a start profile

The UD-27 profile (hereinafter referred to as UD) is cut along the length of each wall and, inserting one into one at the corners, we alternately mount it on the working perimeter. UD is drilled to mineral walls with dowels 6x40 or 6x60 with an interval of 40-50 cm, to structures finished using a steel frame - through cladding to profiles, with metal screws 25-35 mm long. At the joints of two UD profiles, we must install fasteners.

When installing a starter profile, there are two very important points:

Do not cover the lines of the working perimeter with a profile, place it with a touch to the colored skipping.
When fixing the UD to the walls, do not focus only on the line - after nailing the edges of the profile, be sure to attach a long rule to it from below, and then attach further.

Installation of supporting profiles

The supporting element of the subsystem is the CD-60 profiles (hereinafter referred to as the CD), on which the long sides of the gypsum board with thinned edges are joined, in which the reinforcing tape is then laid.

If it is allowed to install racks on the walls with an interval of 60 cm, then for the ceiling the normal distance is 40 centimeters. The direction relative to the window / light along which the gypsum board panels and, accordingly, the CD profiles will be located, does not matter, but it is much easier to work with shorter profiles and sheets, therefore we recommend building the ceiling along the walls of the room that are shorter in length.

On the starting profiles of the long walls, we mark the location of the central house. We start with the central house, which will become the docking for the first sheet - we retreat 1150 mm from one of the short walls (the width of the sheet with a cut off thinned edge) and put it at risk. From this risk, on a tape measure with an interval of 40 cm, we put more marks in both directions. We do this on both long walls.

Now we measure the length of each CD (we put the tape of the tape according to the corresponding marks) - in 99% of cases the sizes of the profiles will differ. Each supporting profile should be 5-7 mm shorter than the distance between the walls along the line of its installation.

The CD is cut to size with scissors, inserted into the UD and placed in the design position - the risk must coincide with the center of the profile. The supporting element is fixed in the starting element with a self-tapping screw LN 3.5x9 mm. Be sure to check the distance between the profiles along the axes with a tape measure - the standard is 1200 mm, along the width of the sheets.

If the width of the room exceeds 4 meters, then the CD will have to be spliced using a connecting element. Elongated profiles are installed on the ceiling so that the butt ends are staggered.

Attention! CD with a length of more than 4.5 m should be installed on the ceiling after mounting the suspensions.

Often, flush-mounted lamps are placed in the false ceiling, so that during installation they do not fall on the metal of the subsystem, it is necessary to adjust the location of the central center, or consider a slight transfer of lighting devices.

We fix the suspensions

In most cases, conventional perforated brackets are suitable for the ceiling, but if the frame needs to be significantly lowered, then you can use the adjustable fasteners with a hairpin or elongated U-shaped elements.

We place the hangers behind the CP profile, mark the points for drilling with a pencil - the two extreme lugs. Between themselves, "peshki" are placed with an interval of 50-70 cm, it is better if they form even lines (this will help us to set the plane).

With a perforator with a drill 160 mm long, we make holes 40-45 mm deep and fix the brackets to the main ceiling with 6x40 dowels.

The option, when the suspensions are installed before fixing the CP, is advisable to use only if the bearing profiles are too long and sag too much.

We expose the frame profiles in a single plane

We described in detail this stage of work in the last article devoted to false walls from GCR. The procedure is as follows:

We press the CD to the rough ceiling and fix them in the bracket with nails or long screws.
Across the profiles, near the line of suspensions from UD to UD, we fix the thread (you need to tighten it very tightly in order to minimize its sagging).
We release the bearing profiles one by one, set them up a millimeter from the cord, scroll through the suspension with two LN self-tapping screws on each side.
We repeat these operations along all lines of straight suspensions.

Pay attention to two important points:

Do not squeeze the cord with profiles.
As the frame is positioned relative to the thread, regularly check your work with the rule, drive it along the central hall, across and along the diagonals.

We install jumpers

At this point, we must clearly understand where we have each sheet, it is best to make a simple drawing with the layout of the panels. Now we need to mount the profile-lintels under the short joints of the sheets. It is necessary to apply crabs, single corner connectors, or UD segments.

Please note that GKL sheets must be placed with a gap of joints of at least 400 mm.

A very important nuance. If we are installing a multi-tiered ceiling, then for the assembly of the next level (so that the superstructures are attached to the metal), jumpers should be added in some places (along the contour of the lower level). For example, when making rectangular boxes, it is necessary to collect a "ladder" between the extreme CD and nearby UD.

We sheathe the frame with plasterboard

Ceiling plasterboard is 9.5 mm thick, but many installers use more rigid 12.5 mm thick wall panels for this, often even moisture-resistant drywall (if the neighbors on top have a habit of pouring). In order to sew up a frame with sheets, the participation of at least two people is necessary, for beginners it is better if three people work: two - they cut the gypsum board, serve and hold the sheets, the third one wraps them on the profiles.

We fix the panels with self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long, screw them in until the cap disappears from the plane. Be careful not to tear through the lining paper with the fasteners. The pitch of the self-tapping screws is from 150 to 200 mm (on the short side - about 75 mm), on adjacent sheets they should be separated by 30-50 mm. First, we recommend that you sew on whole sheets according to the layout, and then insert and fix the trim.

If we are facing a simple single-level ceiling, then we fit the panels to the walls almost close - we leave a gap of several millimeters. In the case of a multi-tiered ceiling, you can get drywall just 10-15 cm behind the projection of the lower tier.

At the joints of sheets that are not pasted over with cardboard, we remove a chamfer with a knife, its parameters are an angle of 22 degrees, a depth of 2/3 of the panel thickness, a width of about one and a half centimeters. A similar cutting of the seams is necessary so that the drywall putty has a sufficient layer on the short joints of the sheets.

Multilevel plasterboard ceiling

As we have already said, the base for a multi-tiered ceiling is a conventional flat design. In the overwhelming majority of cases, the second and subsequent levels are much smaller in area than the main one, therefore the starting plane is assembled almost completely (only the sheets are not tightly fitted to the walls). Sometimes it happens that the superstructures take up a large area, then, to save materials, the first level is made incomplete - it looks like several islands.

In any case, we begin work on the second level by marking its contour on the plane of the main ceiling. Here, depending on the configuration of the superstructure, it is necessary to apply a square, a rule and a chopping line, or improvised compasses.

Now on the wall from the main ceiling we retreat the specified distance (the height of the second level). Usually, the superstructure is made with a height of 50 to 120 cm, but when setting the marks, do not forget that the profile will be sheathed with plasterboard, and this is +12.5 mm to the side height. In order not to assemble complex structures from various frame elements, we suggest using starting profiles as a side for superstructures. Most often, craftsmen use UD and get a "standard" board up to 45 mm high - this is 27 mm (profile) + 12.5 mm (gypsum board) + 3 mm (perforated corner). However, it is also possible to work with UW starter pillars with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm and have at the exit side heights of approximately 65, 80, 115 mm, respectively. For higher levels, a construction of two UD and a strip of gypsum is used.

So, we fix the starting profile along the contour of the second tier on the ceiling, direct the U-profile shelves towards the walls. If our superstructure has a curvilinear shape, then the starting profile, whatever we use, is cut into 4-5 cm sectors with scissors (it turns out a "snake").

We fix it with self-tapping screws for metal through one of the shelves. The screw must be screwed into the frame profile of the first level. Remember, we collected ladders for this and put additional jumpers? But, as an option, the extreme CD of the basic level can be set along the edge of the box, for example, moved away from the wall by 50 cm and all other profiles can be placed from it.

Attention! To make the board rigidly fixed, twist the self-tapping screw closer to the inner corner of the profile. Use a long bat.

We fix the UD profile on the wall, creating another perimeter. This profile is placed either almost close to the first level, or drops below - it all depends on the design board height. The fixation technique does not differ from the installation of the perimeter for the first level.

Now it is necessary to install CD-profiles from the perimeter UD to the side of the second level. Their basic step between each other is 40 cm, but when laying out the metal, it is necessary to take into account the location of the recessed lamps. The length of these CDs for rectangular superstructures will be cyclical or the same for the whole room, but for curved structures, each profile will have to be measured individually.

Insert the CD into the starting perimeter profile and inside the side profile. We fix the metal relative to each other with 9 mm LN self-tapping screws, first near the wall, and then on board. When we fasten the CP to the side shelf, it serves as a spacer, that is, the side can be set strictly vertically with the help of the CP. To check the quality of installation of rectilinear structures, apply a rule to the board or pull a thread near it, you can check the curved structure by placing a square between the skin of the first level and the board.

When the CDs are placed in their places, on the main ceiling or on the profiles of the first level, we fix straight suspensions and along the threads, or, according to the rule, set the metal of the second level in one plane.

Now you can massively sheathe the frame with plasterboard. What to cover in the first place, a board or a common plane, is not important, most often they start with a vertical strip. It is twisted with the same 25 mm self-tapping screws with an interval of 150 mm; for curved products, gypsum strips are fixed more often, from 50 to 70 mm.

Horizontal filing should be done from the corners of the room, and then move to the centers of the walls. To avoid cracks, avoid joining the sheets in the corner area, always line both sides of the superstructure with one piece. For example, for straight boxes this element always looks like a "boot".

Do not try to make GCR blanks exactly along the contour of the frame, practice shows that it is better to leave an allowance of 3-4 cm and, after screwing the sheets to the metal, cut off the excess with a knife or saw (curved structures) and process the butt end with a plane.

If, according to the project, the superstructure should have a niche for hidden lighting, then the lower horizontal sheet is extended overboard to the required distance of 50-100 mm, and this overhang is trimmed so as to repeat the contour of the second level. At the edge of the overhang, a UD is mounted, facing upward with shelves (straight or "snake"), a frontal strip 50-70 mm wide is screwed to it.

We have considered the first and second tiers, but any subsequent tiers will be mounted using the same technology. This is a basic "instruction" for installing a ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard, it is unrealistic to reveal the nuances of all possible designs in one article. However, if you grasp the principle of assembling the frames and understand how to sheathe them correctly, then you can easily make a ceiling of any complexity, just treat the plasterboard system like a designer.

In this material, we will try to help you figure out how, in a relatively short period and with minimal costs, using plasterboard structures, you can install the ceiling, wall shelves and niches, which will serve as an alternative to frame furniture. I am sure that any technically competent person can do this kind of work.

The main materials used in the installation of plasterboard structures:

Profile UD / CD - frames of the main plane of the ceiling and the console element.
The UW / CW profile is a frame of a free modular wall structure and shelves.
Plates of wall gypsum board 12.5 * 1200 * 2500.
Straight "П" -shaped suspension type CD60.
Fasteners "quick installation" 6 * 60mm - installation of UD-profile.
Electric cable ШВВП section 2 * 2.5 (sockets), 2 * 1.5 (switches, lighting).
End plastic strip 12.5mm for gypsum board.

1st stage. Construction of the 1st tier of the false ceiling

Using an ordinary water level or a linear laser level, we make a horizontal leveling of the room. We carry out installation of the frame of the 1st tier of the ceiling. We fix the perimeter to the walls with dowels 6 * 60 mm. We fix the ceiling structure made of CD-profile on "П" -shaped hangers with a frequency of 600 mm. Depending on the material that was used for the manufacture of the ceiling, we fix the brackets with dowels 6 * 60 mm, if it is a concrete floor, or with wood screws, if it is a plank floor.

We mount the longitudinal bearing profiles of the structure for plasterboard with a frequency of no more than 400 mm. We provide profile strips at the transverse joints. We mount them on the crab connector.

It should be remembered that it is necessary to check the correct placement of the output wiring for the power supply of the main and auxiliary lighting in the console elements of the ceiling structure.

2nd stage. We install the 2nd tier of the ceiling with a cantilever element

We lower it from the 1st by no more than 100 mm. The frame is mounted along the entire perimeter with an indent from the wall by 300 mm along its inner part and, accordingly, by 400 mm along the outer part (photo 1).

We mount the transverse profile at a frequency that is a multiple of the length of the room, but not less often than 500 mm. We exclude the ingress of drywall joints directly along the axes of intersection of the outer slopes of two adjacent walls (photo 2).

When facing the gypsum board on the frame, we fasten it with an overhang of 100 mm along the entire perimeter (photo 3).

The cantilever element formed in this way has an internal slope, which will subsequently be "blind" and not available for finishing. It is recommended to make it finish for painting already at this stage.

3rd stage. We install the outer slope of the cantilever element

To do this, we make strips of gypsum plasterboard with a width of 60 mm of the required length. Align them well from the end using a rasp. We put on a plastic strip on the end of the strip, which will protect it in the future from moisture and swelling at the finishing stage. Then we fix the strip on the UD-profile of the required length (photo 5)

and only now we mount the entire element on the edge of the cantilever element (photo 6).

4th stage. Aligning the curvature of the walls using the technology of gluing the gypsum board

First, remove the old wallpaper with glue residues. To prepare highly absorbent substrates (concrete, plastered), we use deep penetration acrylic primer or contact primer. Drying time 4-6 hours. Then we glue the gypsum board on the surface of the walls with special gypsum glue, aligning them in the horizontal and vertical planes (photos 7 and 8).

The setting time is 40 minutes, the time for complete drying at room temperature is 12 hours.

5th stage. Installation of a plasterboard wall structure

When developing the design of this room for the manufacture of wall niches and shelves, it was proposed to replace furniture chipboard structures with modular structures made of plasterboard.

We make markings on the walls according to the prepared drawings. We make module frames from UD / CW type wall profile. For fastening the frame to the walls, we use a 6 * 60 mm “quick installation” dowel (photos 10 and 11).

Here it is also necessary to provide for the laying of an electric cable for powering outlets and lighting in niches (photo 12).

The photo below shows the finished structure before finishing.