How to make a sewer. Installation of sewerage in a private house

Living in your private house without sewerage will be at least not comfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place at the construction stages. Although there are exceptions.

And sewerage for a private house, as the masters correctly notice, is arranged more often after the construction of the building.

Schemes and types

AT big houses where there are many rooms (bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this must be done, despite the subsequent impressive fees.

If not, you will have to build autonomous sewerage.

Internal sewerage: scheme and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout, it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each house.

The scheme here can be formed independently. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like specialists. But acting wisely, you will use it to lay a pipeline and decide on the right amount equipment and materials.

This is where a floor plan is required. Locate the positions for the sewer line (SC), riser(s) and all plumbing devices. In the diagram, mark the fittings for the pipeline and the distance from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. Such work is carried out on each floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of various diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

  1. For a riser or TC, as well as an outlet block for draining waste coming from a bathroom - 10–11 cm.
  2. For drains from kitchen and bathroom a pipe is used - 5 cm.
  3. Turns in the sewer should be done with two knees. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Usually these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.

But today, products from the other two indicated materials are becoming more and more famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Customers like their flexibility and modest weight, and resistance to high temperatures Wastewater.

It's important to know: It should be noted that PVC and polypropylene products are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.

Pipes made of all these materials, with proper operation, will last a very long time.

Kinds

Usually sewerage according to the method of operation is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.

Types of sewage according to the method of eliminating wastewater: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenditure and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.

Thus, in private houses, usually, a mixed gravity sewer is arranged.

Mounting

You need an assistant to get the job done. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

Sleeves are placed on those areas where the system crosses the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And there, powerful insulation is made with the help of plumbing sealant.

Pipe laying goes with some slope. These are the requirements of SNiP. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope in terms of cm / 1 shoulder strap. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by observing this rule, you can qualitatively mount a working internal sewerage.

And also a slope less than 2% and more than 3% is unacceptable. In the first scenario, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, a blockage will form. In the second case, the runoff flows in these pipes will pick up too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and the solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

Note: for work you will also need a soldering iron and a puncher.

The work starts with the release - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. With such a beginning, you will not allow these systems to mismatch. Installation of the release goes through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth inferior to the depth of soil freezing in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewerage system will only be able to work in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, it must be arranged.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve extends at least 15 cm from each side of the base. The hole and installation of the sleeve comes with a slope of 2% for external sewage, following to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet necessarily matches the diameter of the riser.

The best position for a riser is a bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating drains from the toilet will be short. The following trend operates here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and the plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can make a gasket in boxes, in walls, you can work in an open way. For the installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If there is a point in your scheme where the outlets from the shower, bath and sink converge, then you need to install a collector pipe there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The audit must be mounted on each riser. Each turn of the sewer must end with a cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward already in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After that, this pipe is displayed on the roof. It is not allowed to combine it with home ventilation.

The exit must necessarily exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and itself fan pipe must differ in height.

Having mounted the internal sewerage, it must be thoroughly shed clean water. In this way, the tightness of all connections is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewer is a network of pipes from the outlet block to a septic tank or treatment plant. Pipes are laid in the ground here.

Pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to lay pipes of bright color so that they are easier to notice in depth. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There is different types external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where sewage is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total cleaning stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

  1. Two-chamber.
  2. Three-chamber.
  3. With biofilter.
  4. With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

  1. The needs of all residents of the house.
  2. The number of these residents.
  3. Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
  4. Estimated water consumption. It is understood how much each tenant spends water daily. Here, the number of plumbing fixtures in the house, and whether there are household appliances, also matters.
  5. level ground water on your territory.
  6. The parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for the treatment equipment are calculated.
  7. Soil type.
  8. climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or treatment plant you buy is also a matter of your budget. And also here it does not hurt to consult with specialists.

It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

  1. The garden and the septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
  2. Any source of water and a septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
  3. A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in the organization of external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Excavation and laying does not cause special difficulties.

As for the general scheme of external sewage, it must include:

  • a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
  • waste disposal channels to the point of disposal;
  • sump (cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

  1. Creation of a trench. It connects house drains to a sump. Trench slope: 2 cm/1 m pipe towards the cesspool.
  2. The bottom of the trench is covered sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
  3. A pipeline is laid along this pillow close to the storage tank.
  4. The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along the oval of the cords. The cord is treated with grease.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

  1. For installation, use materials of the required parameters.
  2. Make a scheme taking into account all the necessary factors.
  3. Do not use poor quality pipes.
  4. Do not clog sewers with heavy waste.
  5. Design sewers at the same time as designing the house itself.
  6. Install sewers at construction stages. it best option. If it has not been observed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.

How to make a sewer in a private house, see the tips in the following video:

Worthy living conditions it is impossible to imagine without a well-maintained bathroom and, accordingly, a wastewater disposal system. There are some features when installing sewerage in 2 or more storey buildings concerning both the general scheme of organization and the specific nuances of installation.

The general structure of the sewer

In high-rise residential buildings the sewer system has a rather complex organization. Preferably to the beginning installation work A project was drawn up, which should indicate:

  1. Axonometric plan for the location of pipelines and connection points.
  2. List of sanitary equipment and household appliances, which will be connected to the drain system.
  3. Bandwidth pipes, flow direction and slope value in all sections.

The structure of the system is represented by a tree, from the trunk of which main pipelines diverge, into which connection points are inserted. All branches of the system are located at several levels, conditionally - at the floor level of each floor. The number and length of branches are practically unlimited, however, all of them must have a slope towards the riser of 3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 2% for 110 mm mains.

AT classic version only one riser is arranged, to which all branches of the system are connected. If effluents are discharged into a septic tank, it makes sense to separate the discharge of purely organic effluents and those containing a high concentration of household cleaning products containing chlorine. Also, the device of two risers may be appropriate when equipping large country houses where more than two bathrooms are located on the same floor. In such cases, each riser is connected to its own local treatment plant.

An example of a sewerage scheme in a private house: 1 - 90 ° elbow; 2 - straight tee 90°; 3 - internal wiring pipe; 4 - plug; 5 - hatch for cleaning; 6 - non-ventilated riser; 7 - outlet pipe; 8 - revision; 9 - ventilated riser

When determining the structure of individual branches, one should be guided by the principle that points with largest volume volley discharge. For example, if a sink or bathtub drain is inserted between the toilet bowl and the riser, then when the tank is lowered, a vacuum is formed that will draw water out of the siphon water seal. It is for this reason that the discharge of water from toilets is most often carried out directly into the riser.

Riser device

It is reasonable to carry out the installation of the riser immediately after the construction of the building box is completed. On the one hand, this makes it possible to provide elementary living conditions at the time of further construction works. On the other hand, sewer pipelines can be hidden under a layer of finish.

The location of the riser must be chosen carefully and in advance, because its position on the plan of the house is strictly tied to the input of the outer part of the sewer. When draining, the pipes are pretty noisy, so the riser should be placed either in a technical room isolated from the habitable area, or in technical well equipped with soundproofing.

The riser should not be walled up tightly, it must have at least one section for which access is provided through a technical hatch. In these places, plumbing revisions are installed - taps with threaded plugs. The installation location of the revision must be chosen so that it provides access to the longest possible section of the pipe, and also so that the room where the hatch is located is spacious enough for maintenance.

Ventilated device sewer system: 1 - outlet to the septic tank; 2 - riser with a diameter of 110 mm; 3 - fan pipe; 4 - deflector

Another requirement for the riser device is that it must continue above the tie-in point of the highest branch. This is required for the organization of the so-called fan outlet, due to which the vacuum in the system is compensated, which prevents the discharge of a large volume of water, as well as the ventilation of the riser in case of malfunctions of the hydraulic seal siphons. As a rule, the fan outlet of the riser continues to the very roof, where the sewer is connected to the street through a roof cut with a deflector. It is important that the fan deflector is no closer than 5 meters from windows and ventilation ducts.

Connection points on floors

Before organizing the branching of the sewer system, you should decide on the placement of the connection points. This seemingly trivial task has some rules that ensure both comfortable use of the sewerage system and its impeccable long-term service. The configuration of the branches is determined primarily by the household organization of the premises.

As a rule, there are only two bathrooms on the second floor: one is shared and one is attached to the bedroom. It is preferable that both of these bathrooms have common wall, which has a riser. At the floor level, a cross with two 110 mm and two 50 mm bends is cut into the riser. Sinks, bidets and showers are connected to small outlets, and toilet sinks are connected to large outlets.

There are more connection points on the ground floor. The kitchen is located here, it requires a connection for kitchen sink and dishwasher, for which it is enough to draw a branch of a 50 mm pipeline of arbitrary length from the riser. In the same way, sewerage is connected to the laundry room, where the washing machine and dryer are located. Also, the first floor is characterized by the placement of the main bathroom, where the bathroom itself, a sink and a toilet with a bidet are connected, that is, this room is conveniently placed under one of the bathrooms on the second floor or with a slight distance. In some houses, a guest toilet can be organized, as a rule, it is placed next to the main bathroom and connected with one 110 mm outlet for the toilet and one 50 mm for the mini-sink. One of the useful innovations for modern country house- a sewerage supply to the back door, where a grate with a receiving funnel is mounted on the floor for washing shoes and paws for pets.

Sololift in the forced sewage system: 1 - sewer pump(sololift); 2 - plumbing connected to the sewer; 3 - height of raising wastewater 4-6 m; 4 - sewer riser; 5 - septic tank

If the house has ground floor, it can also be organized sewage, combined with common system. This requires the installation of a so-called sololift - a lifting pump, through which the effluents will rise to the level of the first floor and be discharged into a common drainage outlet through a tee located below the cross. The drain line from the basement must be equipped with check valve. The very idea of ​​\u200b\u200bconducting sewerage into the basement may seem doubtful, but this way it becomes possible to place the laundry in an area where the noise from it will not interfere with the residents, as well as organize a technical or “dirty” wash.

Pipeline installation

Modern materials for the installation of sewer systems are designed in such a way that not only a professional plumber, but also anyone in general, can cope with the work. However, there is a certain regulation containing the rules and description of the installation process.

Laying sewer pipes in a private house can be done in two ways. If the floors in the building are monolithic or full-bodied, the pipes are laid at a level above the floor of the upper floor, so the connection points are located at a fairly significant height, and the pipes themselves are hidden under the sheeting of the walls, or in a false box. This approach is acceptable for piping under a sink or washing machine, however, when connecting a bathtub or floor drain at a significant distance from the riser, the height of the inlet pipe is unacceptable. In such cases, the pipes are led down through the ceiling, and then pulled to the riser along the shortest path and hidden behind the hanging ceiling structure and enclosed in a soundproof shell. In case of frame floors this problem is easier to solve. The thickness of the ceiling is often sufficient to form the required slope, in addition, the small diameter of the pipes allows perforation in the beams of the supporting structure.

Plastic sewer pipes and fittings for them - this is a kind of constructor, which is assembled without the use of special tool. The sealing of the joints is ensured by sealing rubbers installed in grooves on the inner surface of the sockets. It is convenient to first remove all rubber rings, assemble the system “dry”, making sure that the pipelines are located correctly and the slopes are correct, after which you can proceed to sealing all connections.

Related videos

In order for living in a country house to be as comfortable as possible, the main communications in the form of sewerage and water supply must be carried out.

Of course, sewerage in a private house with your own hands is possible without any problems.

If you do not live in a house outside the city on a permanent basis, then there is no need to purchase expensive equipment. It is quite easy to get by with a septic tank.

The Importance of Sewerage

Very often, in practice, the function of collecting wastewater is assigned to a cesspool. In the case when there is no plumbing system in the house, the use of this option is quite logical, however, in the case of a large volume of drained water and the installation of various plumbing fixtures, this will certainly not be enough.

In principle, absolutely anyone can sewer into a house, and it is only important to follow at all stages of the project, which was developed in advance, and included various schemes internal and external piping.

Do-it-yourself sewerage scheme inside a country house

First of all, these are all places where plumbing fixtures are connected, such as a sink, toilet, as well as a bath or shower.

The external network is all the pipes that divert drains from the house and storage or treatment plant. Of course, the device of proper sewage is the correct implementation of a huge number of various nuances.

After the project is prepared, you can proceed to the calculation of the size of the pipes, the number required material, which may be needed for work, as well as the choice of a sewer.

As soon as you have a diagram on hand, how each point from the system will be located, it is allowed to purchase material that will be needed later and proceed to the installation.

First of all, if you do not know how to make a sewer, then the main riser must be installed. For the obligatory removal of all gases, a small part from above is slightly noticeable above the existing level at the roof, or the second option is brought up at the end of the work.

Types of pipes

From PVC material. The main advantage of this type of pipe is that the material is absolutely not subject to, in principle, either overgrowth or unwanted corrosion.

Their inner surface is quite smooth, which allows the unhindered passage of drains. Installation is carried out most often by a bell-shaped method. The price of such pipes allows everyone to purchase them.

Cast iron pipes are durable and always reliable option However, due to their rather large weight, their installation is quite difficult. Also, the price of such pipes is much higher than for ordinary plastic ones, to which, in fact, everyone is almost used to.

You can look at the photo of the sewage system in the country, and you will see that, in principle, there is practically no external difference between these two options. Then why overpay?

Ceramic pipes stand out from the rest with their amazing characteristics, but not everyone can afford their cost, so they are chosen less and less every year.

After the installation of the main riser is completed, the next step is the laying of horizontal pipelines. During installation, it is very important to avoid various 90-degree turns, as this only interferes with the movement of drains.

If you are interested in sewerage from concrete rings, then keep in mind that this is not only a fairly expensive option, but also extremely difficult to install directly.

It will be enough that all plumbing fixtures in their kit have siphons with an additional water seal. This will act as an obstacle to the penetration of various unwanted odors into the room.

Note!

An important condition when connecting a pipe from the toilet is that the pipe in diameter should not be less than 10 cm.

A septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings has a lot of different advantages. For example, this option is one of the most affordable, but it is completely unpretentious during use.

However, speaking of the minuses, it should be noted that the mandatory cleaning of the chamber from solid waste using sewage equipment.

DIY sewer photo

Note!

An urgent question that torments everyone who wants to live in private country houses without the ability to connect to the central water supply and sanitation, how to make an autonomous sewer. Indeed, without it, it is not possible to fully use such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more. Sewerage in a private house can be equipped different ways, which we will discuss in this article. Choosing the right system for your individual conditions and needs is even more important than putting it into practice.

What can be a sewerage system - a private house with permanent and temporary residence

The option of arranging the drainage system in private homes is selected depending on several conditions:

  • House with permanent or temporary residence.
  • How many people permanently live in the house.
  • What is the daily water consumption per person in the house (depends on the number of water consumers, such as a bathroom, shower, toilet, sink, washbasin, washing machine, etc.)
  • What is the level of groundwater.
  • What is the size of the plot, how much space can be used for treatment systems.
  • What is the structure and type of soil on the site.
  • Climatic conditions of the area.

More detailed information about the requirements can be found in the relevant sections of SanPin and SNiP.

Conventionally, all sewage systems in a private house can be divided into only two types:

  • Accumulation systems(cesspool without a bottom, sealed container for stocks).
  • Wastewater treatment facilities(the simplest single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning, a two-chamber septic tank - overflowing wells with natural cleaning, two - three-chamber septic tank with a filtration field, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank (aerotank) with a constant air supply).

The most ancient, proven for centuries and even millennia, way of arranging sewage is a cesspool. Some 50-70 years ago there was no alternative to this method at all. But at the same time, people did not use such a large amount of water in private homes as they do today.

The cesspool is a well without a bottom. The walls of the cesspool can be made of brick, concrete rings, concrete or other material. Soil remains at the bottom. When runoff from the house enters the pit, more or less clean water seeps into the soil, being cleansed. Fecal matter and other solid organic waste settle to the bottom, accumulating. Over time, the well is filled with solid waste, then it must be cleaned.

Previously, the walls of the cesspool were not made waterproof, then when filling the pit, they simply dug it in and pulled out a new one in another place.

I would like to note right away that a sewerage device in a private house using a cesspool is possible only if the average daily volume of effluents is less than 1 m3. In this case, soil microorganisms that live in the soil and feed on organic matter have time to process the water that penetrates the soil through the bottom of the pit. If the volume of runoff is more than this norm, the water does not undergo sufficient purification, penetrates into the soil and pollutes groundwater. This is fraught with the fact that wells and other water sources can be contaminated within a radius of 50 m. The addition of microorganisms to the cesspool somewhat reduces bad smell emanating from it, and also speeds up the process of water purification. But still, it's not worth the risk.

Conclusion. A cesspool without a bottom can be built if there are visits to the house 2-3 days a week and do not consume much water. At the same time, the level of groundwater occurrence must be at least 1 m lower than the bottom of the pit, otherwise pollution of the soil and the water source cannot be avoided. Despite the lowest cost of arrangement, the cesspool is not popular in modern country houses and cottages.

Sealed container - storage tank

A sealed container is installed on the site near the house, into which sewage and waste from the whole house flow through pipes. This container can be ready-made, store-bought, and made of plastic, metal, or other material. And it can be mounted independently from concrete rings, the bottom is made of concrete, and the cover is made of metal. The main condition for installing sewerage in a private house of this type is complete tightness. Suitable for sewers corrugated pipes pragma.

When the container is full, it must be emptied. To do this, a sewer machine is called, the call of which costs from 15 to 30 USD. The frequency of emptying the tank, as well as the required volume, depends on the number of drains. For example, if 4 people live permanently in the house, use the bathroom, shower, sink, toilet, washing machine, then the minimum volume storage tank should be 8 m3, it will have to be cleaned every 10 - 13 days.

Conclusion. A sealed cesspool is one of the options for how to sewer in a private house if the groundwater level in the area is high. This will completely protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution. The disadvantage of such a sewage system is that you will often have to call a sewage truck. To do this, from the very beginning it is necessary to correctly calculate the installation location of the tank in order to provide convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container must not be deeper than 3 m from the soil surface, otherwise the cleaning hose will not reach the bottom. The container lid must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing. For such a sewer in a private house, the cost depends on the material of the container. The cheapest option would be to purchase second-hand eurocubes, the most expensive - concrete pouring or brick. In addition, there are monthly cleaning costs.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil cleaning

A single-chamber septic tank is not far from the cesspool, very often it is called that. It is a well, at the bottom of which crushed stone is covered with a layer of at least 30 cm, and coarse-grained sand is covered with the same layer on top. Wastewater flows through pipes into a well, where water, seeping through a layer of sand, gravel, and then soil, is cleaned by 50%. Adding sand and gravel improves the quality of water purification and partially faeces, but does not solve the problem radically.

Conclusion. Sewerage in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank is impossible when permanent residence and large stocks. Only for temporary residences and low level ground water. After some time, crushed stone and sand will need to be completely replaced, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

As one of the economical sewer options that you can install yourself, the arrangement of overflow settling wells and filter wells is universally popular.

This sewerage system in a private house consists of two wells: one with a sealed bottom, the second without a bottom, but with powders, as in the previous method (crushed stone and sand). Wastewater from the house enters the first well, where solid organic waste and feces sink to the bottom, fatty ones float to the surface, and more or less clarified water forms between them. At a height of about 2/3 of the first well, it is connected to the second well by an overflow pipe, located slightly at an angle so that water can flow there unhindered. Partially clarified water enters the second well, where it seeps through a powder of crushed stone, sand and soil, it is cleaned even more and leaves.

The first well is a sump, and the second is a filter well. Over time, a critical mass of feces accumulates in the first well, for the removal of which it is necessary to call a sewage truck. You will have to do this about once every 4 to 6 months. To reduce the unpleasant smell, microorganisms are added to the first well, which decompose the feces.

Overflow sewerage in a private house: photo - example

A two-chamber septic tank can be made independently from concrete rings, concrete or brick, or you can purchase a ready-made (plastic) one from the manufacturer. In the finished two-chamber septic tank, additional cleaning will also take place with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is possible to install a sewerage system in a private house from two overflow wells only if the groundwater level, even during a flood, is 1 m lower from the bottom of the second well. Ideal conditions are sandy or sandy soil on the site. After 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the filter well will have to be replaced.

Septic tank with filtration field - biological and soil treatment

We turn to the description of more or less serious cleaning systems that allow you not to worry about environmental pollution.

This type of septic tank is a single tank, divided into 2 - 3 sections or several separate tanks-wells connected by pipes. Most often, having decided to equip just this type of sewage system, a factory-made septic tank is purchased.

In the first tank, wastewater settles, as in the previous method (settlement well). Through the pipe, partially clarified water enters the second tank or section, where anaerobic bacteria decompose organic residues. Even more clarified water enters the filtration fields.

Filtration fields are an area underground where wastewater passes soil cleaning. Thanks to large area(about 30 m2), the water is purified by 80%. The ideal case is if the soil is sandy or sandy, otherwise it will be necessary to equip an artificial filtration field of crushed stone and sand. After passing through the filtration fields, water is collected in pipelines and discharged into drainage ditches or wells. Trees or edible vegetables cannot be planted above the filtration fields, only a flower bed is allowed.

Over time, the fields silt up, and they need to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. You can imagine how much work will have to be done, and what your site will turn into after that.

Conclusion. Laying a sewer in a private house, assuming the presence of a filtration field, is possible only if the groundwater level is below 2.5 - 3 m. Otherwise, this is quite constructive solution provided there is sufficient free space. Also, do not forget that the distance from the filtration fields to water sources and residential buildings should be more than 30 m.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station

Station deep cleaning allows you to perform a full installation of sewage in a private house, even if the groundwater level is very high.

The septic tank is a container divided into 3 - 4 sections. It is better to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after consulting with professionals about the required volume and equipment. Of course, the price for such a sewer in a private house is not the lowest, it starts from 1200 USD.

In the first chamber of the septic tank, water is settled, in the second - the decomposition of organic matter by anaerobic microorganisms, the third chamber serves to separate water, since in the fourth chamber organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which need a constant supply of air. To do this, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, rising 50 cm above the ground level. Aerobic bacteria are planted on a filter installed on a pipe leading from the third section to the fourth. In fact, this is the filtering field - only in miniature and concentrated. Due to the small area of ​​water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, there is a thorough purification of water up to 90 - 95%. Such water can be safely used for technical needs - watering the garden, washing the car and much more. To do this, their fourth section is given a pipe leading either to a tank for the accumulation of purified water, or to drainage ditch or a well, where it simply soaks into the ground.

Sewage treatment in a private house - scheme of work:

Conclusion. Septic tank with biofilter - good decision for a private house with permanent residence. Microorganisms can be added to the septic tank by simply pouring them into the toilet. There are no restrictions on the use of such a treatment plant. An undeniable advantage is that it does not require electricity. The only drawback is that sewerage wiring in a private house requires permanent residence, since without the constant presence of sewage, bacteria die. When new strains are introduced, they begin active activity only after two weeks.

Septic tank with forced air supply - artificial cleaning station

An accelerated cleaning station where natural processes occur artificially. The construction of a sewerage system in a private house using an aeration tank will require electricity to be connected to the septic tank to connect an air pump and an air distributor.

Such a septic tank consists of three chambers or separate containers interconnected. Water enters the first chamber through sewer pipes, where it settles, and solid waste precipitates. Partially clarified water from the first chamber is pumped into the second.

The second chamber is actually the aeration tank, here water is mixed with activated sludge, which consists of microorganisms and plants. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic. It is for their full-fledged life that forced aeration is needed.

Water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber - a sump for deeper cleaning. Then the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank by a special pump.

Forced air supply provides quite fast cleaning wastewater, which can then be used for technical needs.

Conclusion. Aerotank is an expensive, but necessary pleasure in some cases. The price starts from 3700 USD. There are no restrictions on the installation of such a sewer. Disadvantages - the need for electricity and permanent residence, otherwise activated sludge bacteria die.

Water supply and sewerage of a private house - general rules

Certain restrictions apply to the location of sewer facilities.

septic tank should be located:

  • no closer than 5 m from a residential building;
  • no closer than 20 - 50 m from the water source (well, well, reservoir);
  • no closer than 10 m from the garden.

House must be removed:

  • 8 m from filter wells;
  • 25 m from the filter fields;
  • 50 m from aeration treatment plants;
  • 300 m from drain wells or stations.

The pipes leading to the septic tank must be insulated so that they do not freeze through in winter. To do this, they are wrapped with heat-insulating material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External sewerage wiring in a private house is carried out with pipes with a diameter of 100 - 110 mm, the slope should be 2 cm by 2 m, i.e. 2 °, in practice they do a little more - 5 - 7 ° (with a margin). But you shouldn’t joke with this matter, since a larger slope will lead to the fact that water will quickly pass through the pipes, and feces will linger and clog them, and a smaller angle of inclination will not ensure that wastewater moves through the pipes at all. It is advisable to lay the pipes in such a way that there are no turns and corners. For internal wiring of sewer pipes, 50 mm in diameter is sufficient. If the house has more than one floor, and bathtubs, sinks, and a toilet are also installed on the upper floors, then a riser with a diameter of 200 mm is used to drain wastewater down.

If you decide that you can handle the sewerage of a private house with your own hands, be sure to take into account all the restrictions of SanPin and SNiP regarding the location and design of the sewerage system. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, consider the location of their water sources and other buildings.

The sewerage project of a private house is extremely important; you should not try to do without it. Sewerage is not a system that tolerates approximation. Contact design bureaus or architects, let the professionals create a working draft for you, taking into account all the features of the soil, site, climate and operating conditions. It is better if this project is completed along with the project of the house itself before the start of its construction. This will greatly facilitate installation.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a sewer in a private house at high level ground water, then based on all of the above, it can be such options:

  • Sealed container for accumulation of waste.
  • Septic tank with biofilter.
  • Aeration cleaning station (aerotank).

Direct work on the installation of a sewer system in a private house is not so complicated. It is necessary to lay pipes around the house that will collect drains from various sources, connect them to a collector and run through the foundation or under it along the ground to the septic tank. Earthworks can be done independently, or you can hire an excavator. But choosing the right sewerage system and drafting a project is much more important.

Sewerage in a private house: video - example

Gone are the days when in country and private houses all the amenities were on the street. Now, to create basic comfort, it is necessary to lay a sewer in a private house. This highly responsible task is not difficult.

To lay a sewer in a private house with your own hands, you need to start by creating a competent project. When constructing a new building, it is important to design drains not according to the residual principle, but in combination with all systems, since sewage is one of the most important life support points for a modern home.

And it is also necessary to first clarify whether it is possible to connect private housing to a centralized sewerage system. This will save money and time on construction. You need to know what soils can lie near the house, geological exploration will help with this.

The project for the sewer system of a private house should include the following items:

Installation of external sewerage

According to SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and facilities" from bearing capacity soil depends on the type of pillow for the sewer pipeline. In trenches in rocky soils, a pillow with a thickness of 100 mm or more from carefully compacted sand or gravel is provided. In peat, silty and other weak soils, an artificial foundation is made. For other types of soil, it is enough to carefully compact the immediate bottom of the trench.

The depth of the pipe supply depends on the level of soil freezing in the area. The top of the plumbing must be below the freezing point. With a soil layer height of less than 700 mm, drainpipes must be insulated and protected from damage if ground transport is supposed to pass from above.

The bottom of the trench must be cleared of debris and large stones, and the foundation is being prepared. The pipeline must be brought to the house from the sewer discharge point with a minimum number of turns. If they cannot be avoided, then smooth bends for pipes are used. Pipes and fittings are interconnected using a sealant.

The supply of sewerage to a private house should be under the right:

  • for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm, a slope of 0.008 is required;
  • for a supply pipe with a size of 110 mm - 0.02;
  • a pipeline with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid at a slope of 0.03.

At the exit from the building, a metal sleeve is inserted into the foundation hole for laying pipes in it. The remaining space must be filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

By fulfilling these simple conditions, you can protect yourself from a sudden breakthrough of the external sewage network or its freezing in winter. For example, the process repair work in cold period year is complicated by digging a trench in the frozen ground.

Collection and storage of effluents

In the absence of the possibility, several options for a local system for discharge, storage and treatment of wastewater are used:

  • cesspool;
  • septic tank.

Traditional pit latrines the best option from an ecological point of view. But they are the most economical way to organize an autonomous storage of domestic wastewater. Choosing this method, it is important to properly organize the placement of the pit:

  • The distance between cesspool and the well should be more than 25 m.
  • The well for drains should be located further from the house than 5 m.
  • With a sewer capacity of 8 sq. meters, the distance increases to 8 m.
  • The distance from the cesspool to the border of the site should be at least 1.5 m.
  • The cesspool is located downstream groundwater to prevent runoff from entering the wells.
  • The sewage well is located below the level of the house.

The material for the construction of the cesspool is traditionally red brick. If it is possible for the entrance of special equipment, they equip a pit from ready-made ones with a pre-concreted bottom. The structure is covered with a slab with an inspection hatch and a built-in ventilation pipe.

A more progressive solution for organizing waste collection is a septic tank. It usually consists of two or three chambers. In the first chamber, the solid fraction is deposited and decomposition takes place with the help of bacteria. The filtered liquid is sent to the next tank for further purification. In the last chamber, the purified liquid seeps through the gravel base into the soil. A septic tank must be equipped ventilation pipe with an umbrella. The structure must be freed from settled solid waste every 5–10 years. Such designs are purchased already in finished form.

Internal wiring

In addition to the arrangement outdoor sewerage, it is important to know how to properly lay pipes inside the house. There are many nuances:

  • Water intake points should be located as compactly as possible for the optimal organization of the sewer system.
  • The toilet is connected to the riser separately from other appliances to prevent them from sucking up drains from the toilet.
  • Drains from sinks, sinks, showers and other plumbing fixtures must be brought to a common riser higher than the drain from the toilet.
  • The slope of the pipes should be 2–9°.
  • Every four meters of the riser, revisions must be installed at a height of more than 1 m from the floor.
  • If the sewer pipes are not hidden under the floor, then revisions must be installed before each turn.
  • The riser is equipped with a ventilation pipe with its output above the roof level from 70 cm. This will protect the home from unpleasant odors.
  • In unheated rooms, the pipeline must be insulated.
  • Parts of the pipeline at the joints are coated with sealant.
  • To organize drains from sinks and sinks, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient, from a toilet bowl, a bathtub and a shower - 110 mm.
  • The diameter of the riser must be at least 110 mm.
  • The smaller the diameter of the pipe, the greater should be its slope.

Connection diagram of a riser with an external sewer pipe

It is desirable to soundproof sewer pipes (this will increase the level of comfort of housing) by arranging a drywall box and filling it with mineral wool.

If sewerage under the floor in a private house is chosen, then it is necessary to observe additional terms according to SNiP. In addition to the fact that with such installation the height of the room is lost, it is not possible to install an underground sewer everywhere. It is forbidden to install it:

  • in food storage areas;
  • in living rooms(bedrooms, guest or children's);
  • in rooms for long-term stay of people (offices, classrooms);
  • in rooms with installed electrical equipment.

Important! The configuration of the underground sewer should be as simple as possible, without unnecessary turns, transitions and fittings.

When installing the drainage system under the ceiling, a number of rules must be observed:

  • The pipe diameter must not exceed 110 mm.
  • Fittings are mounted at an angle of 45°.
  • Fasteners are installed at a distance from each other, equal to the diameter of the pipe, multiplied by 10.
  • The presence of underground wiring in the bathroom should not create an excess of the floor over the rest of the premises.
  • The quality of the materials used is subject to increased requirements, since in order to repair the laid network, it will be necessary to break the overlap.

Do-it-yourself installation of the internal wiring of sewers in a private house is a fairly simple task, but it requires care and a serious attitude to the details that distinguish high-quality repairs.