Warm floor in a country house with their own hands. Warm floor in a private house, cottage

A well-functioning heating system is the key to a comfortable stay in the house, regardless of weather conditions. Along with the traditional radiator technology, heating circuit devices actively use a warm water floor system. Its installation is laborious and financially costly, but this heating option pays off in 5 years.

In order to somehow save money, many equip a warm water floor in a private house on their own. Agree, the idea of getting efficient heating with minimal capital investment is very attractive, isn't it? However, its implementation requires certain knowledge and skills from the performer.

We propose for consideration detailed material for the arrangement of water heated floors. The article outlines the design rules, gives advice on choosing system components, and also describes turn-by-turn execution of works on laying, connection and start-up of the water circuit.

It is recommended to include the device of an additional heating circuit in the project even before the start of construction - it is easier to make calculations this way.

In a ready-made new house or building where the radiator system has been operating for a long time, installation of a water floor is also possible, but under certain conditions.

The advantages of water heating have long been appreciated by residents of Europe and Russia: it effectively heats rooms, saves expensive energy, creates the most comfortable environment in bedrooms, bathrooms and children's rooms

If the desire to insulate the floor arose after the construction of the house, it should be established whether the building is suitable for this. One of the main conditions is pre-made thermal insulation of the house, since heat losses above 100 W / m² will make floor installation useless.

Pay attention to the height of the ceilings: the installation "pie" with pipes takes about 15 cm, or even more, from the total height of the room. After the implementation of the system, the dimensions of the doorways, the height of 210 cm or more, must be maintained.

Such schemes are recognized as the least energy-consuming, the most efficient and inexpensive to operate. Options with solid fuel boilers are also allowed.

The flawless operation of the system is possible only under two conditions: professionally performed design calculations and competently carried out installation.

Therefore, the first steps towards installing a water-heated floor in a country house or in a private house are the analysis of the structure, the choice of materials, and the preparation of a project.

The nuances of underfloor heating

The design of the construction of a water floor is complex and simple at the same time. It is multicomponent in composition, so the main thing is to follow the order of laying all layers.

No. 2 - we decide on a heater

The main purpose of the insulation is to separate the screed with pipes from the base so that the heat is transferred upwards, and does not go into the ground in vain. Thermal insulation layer required, without it, the installation of a warm floor loses its meaning.

Warm floors are considered in our understanding to be a more modern heating system than radiator heating. However, this is far from the case - they appeared much earlier. Stubborn historical facts indicate that underfloor heating was successfully used in the days of Ancient Rome, in Korea, and in Russia too. True, only stove heating was used at that time, since the system for transporting hydrocarbons through pipes did not yet exist. V modern world The most economically successful countries widely use underfloor heating, and this is done not only for reasons of obvious comfort, but also takes into account the fact that such heating saves energy resources, the demand for which is growing every year.

This type of heating is not cheap. Parts and labor are very expensive. That is why any zealous owner may have the idea of making a warm water floor with his own hands. Why not? Moreover, the experience of both successful and unsuccessful implementations has already been accumulated enough to give specific recommendations. The purpose of our article is to give specific advice to those owners who are going to make a warm water floor, but at the same time so that they save their money and in the end get what they wanted - comfortable and economical heating.

Why underfloor heating?

Of course, they are easier to implement, they are easier to manage, but the cost of energy carriers makes its own adjustments - this type of heating is much more expensive to operate than a water heated floor. It will take only 4-5 years and a warm water floor will pay off with interest, but only on condition that it is done correctly and correctly. This is what the authors of the article want to tell our readers. Sweeping aside colorful catalogs with expensive equipment, but based only on the experience of people who were able to implement a warm water floor in their home.

Most heating systems now use natural gas as a heat source - and this is completely logical, since this type of fuel is cheaper than others. And this trend will continue for at least a few more decades. Therefore, warm floors are best implemented with water, the coolant in which is heated by combustion energy. natural gas. But for this, a number of conditions must be met.

Water floor heating device

A warm water floor is a complex multicomponent system, each part of which performs its own function. Consider its device in the following figure.

Typical design"pie" of a warm water floor

This type of underfloor heating is called “wet” because it uses “wet” construction processes, namely the pouring of a cement-sand screed. There are also so-called dry warm floors, but they are made mainly. Within the framework of this article, we will consider exactly “wet” warm water floors, since they are much better, although their installation is more difficult.

The warm water floor is mounted on a stable and solid foundation, which may be concrete slab or soil. A vapor barrier made of a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.1 mm is laid on the base. The next layer of the "pie" is a heater, as it is best to use extruded, which has a very low thermal conductivity, high mechanical strength and reasonable cost. A cement-sand screed is equipped on top of the insulation, to which a plasticizer is necessarily added - for the mobility of the mixture, ease of installation and reduction of the water-cement ratio. It is desirable to reinforce the screed with a metal wire mesh with a cell pitch of 50 * 50 mm or 100 * 100 mm. In the same place, inside the screed, pipes of a warm floor pass with a coolant circulating in them. It is recommended to make the screed height above the pipes at least 3 cm, however, practice suggests that 5 cm is better, so the strength will be higher and the heat distribution across the floor will be more uniform.

At the junction of the walls to the screed, as well as at the boundaries of the warm water heating circuits, a damper tape is laid, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the screed when it is heated. The floor covering must be specifically designed to work with underfloor heating. best way out- this is ceramic or porcelain stoneware, but some other types of coating - laminate, carpet, or can also be used with warm floors, but there should be a special icon in their marking.

Such coatings, however, require strict adherence to the thermal regime of the floor, which is achieved by using automation - special mixing units.

Requirements for premises where heating with warm water floors will be implemented

The smartest move in construction is when the underfloor heating pipeline is laid even at the stage of construction of floors. This is very successfully used in Germany, Sweden, Norway, Canada, yes, and in other economically successful countries where energy resources are very expensive and therefore they use floor heating, which is 30-40% more economical than radiator heating. It is quite possible already in the finished room, but it must meet certain requirements. Let's list them.

The most correct underfloor heating pipeline is the one that was laid at the stage of building a house

Given the significant thickness of the warm water floor - from 8 to 20 cm, the height of the ceilings in the room should allow the installation of such a heating system. It is also necessary to take into account the size of doorways, which must be at least 210 cm high.
The subfloor must be strong enough to support a heavy cement-sand screed.
The base for the underfloor heating must be clean and level. Irregularities should not exceed 5 mm, since drops strongly affect the flow of the coolant in the pipes, they can lead to airing of the circuits and an increase in hydraulic resistance.
In the room where a warm water floor is planned, all plaster work must be completed and windows inserted.
Heat loss in the premises should not be more than 100 W / m 2. If they are larger, then it is worth thinking about warming, and not heating the environment.

How to choose a good pipe for underfloor heating

About the pipes of a warm water floor it is written in sufficient detail on our portal. Obviously, for underfloor heating it is better to choose pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene - PEX or PERT. Among PEX pipes, preference should be given to PE-Xa pipes, as they have a maximum crosslink density of about 85% and therefore have a better “memory effect”, that is, pipes after stretching always tend to return to their original position. This allows the use of axial fittings with a sliding ring, which can be embedded in building structures without fear. In addition, when a pipe is broken, its shape can be restored by heating the problem area building hair dryer.

PERT pipes do not have a memory effect, so only push-in fittings are used with them, which must not be walled up. But if all the contours of the warm floor are made with solid pipe sections, then all connections will be only on the collector and it is quite possible to use PERT pipes.

In addition, manufacturers produce pipes of a composite structure, when aluminum foil is placed between two layers of cross-linked polyethylene, which is a reliable oxygen barrier. But the heterogeneity of the material, the difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of aluminum and polyethylene can provoke pipe delamination. Therefore, it is better to choose PE-Xa or PERT pipes with a polyvinylethylene (EVOH) barrier, which significantly reduces the diffusion of oxygen into the coolant through the pipe wall. This barrier can be located in the outer layer of the pipe, or inside, surrounded by layers of PE-Xa or PERT. Of course, that pipe is better, in which the EVOH layer is located inside.

For underfloor heating circuits, there are three main pipe sizes: 16 * 2 mm, 17 * 2 mm and 20 * 2 mm. Most often, 16 * 2 and 20 * 2 mm are used. How to choose exactly the “right” pipe.

Firstly, the brand in this matter matters and you need to pay attention to it. The most famous manufacturers: Rehau, Tece, KAN, Uponor, Valtec.
Secondly, pipe marking can “tell” a lot, it should be carefully studied and you should not be shy to ask more questions to the sales assistant.
Thirdly, the qualification of the sales assistant is very helpful when choosing a pipe. Do not forget to require certificates of conformity, inquire about the availability and price of fittings, mixing units, manifolds and other equipment. It is necessary to find out in which bays the pipe is sold, by how many meters, in order to take this into account in future calculations.
And finally, if a PE-Xa pipe is chosen, then a small test can be carried out. To do this, a small section of the pipe must be broken, and then warm this place with a building hair dryer. High-quality PE-Xa, and PE-Xb pipes should also restore their original shape. If this does not happen, then whatever is written on the label is simply not a PEX pipe.

Underfloor heating design principles

One of the most milestones in the arrangement of warm water floors is their competent calculation. Of course, it is best to entrust this to specialists, but already enough accumulated experience suggests that this can be done on your own. On the Internet you can find a lot of free programs and online calculators. Most well-known manufacturers provide their software for free.

water heated floor

First you need to decide on what temperature the warm floor should be.

In residential areas where people spend most of their time standing, the floor temperature should be between 21 and 27°C. This temperature is the most comfortable for the feet.
For working premises - offices, as well as living rooms, the temperature should be maintained around 29 ° C.
Hallways, lobbies and corridors optimum temperature– 30°C.
For bathrooms and pools, the floor temperature should be higher - about 31-33°C.

Heating with warm water floors is low-temperature, therefore, the coolant must be supplied at more low temperatures than in radiators. If water can be supplied to the radiators at a temperature of 80-90 ° C, then no more than 60 ° C can be supplied to the warm floor. In thermal engineering, there is such an important concept as temperature drop in the heating circuit . This is nothing but the difference in temperature between the supply pipe and the return pipe. In systems of warm water floors optimal modes 55/45°C, 50/40°C, 45/35°C and 40/30°C are considered.

A very important indicator is (loops) of a warm water floor. Ideally, they should all be the same length, then there will be no problem with balancing, but in practice this is unlikely to be achieved, therefore it is accepted:

For a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm, the maximum length is 70-90 m.
For a pipe with a diameter of 17 mm - 90-100 m.
For a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 120 m.

Moreover, it is desirable to focus not on the upper boundary, but on the lower one. It is better to break the room into large quantity loops than trying to achieve circulation with a more powerful pump. Naturally, all loops must be made with pipes of the same diameter.

Laying step (laying) of underfloor heating pipes - another important indicator, which is made from 100 mm to 600 mm, depending on the heat load on the warm floor, the purpose of the room, the length of the circuit and other indicators. It is almost impossible to make a pitch of less than 100 mm with PEX pipes, there is a high probability of simply breaking the pipe. If the warm floor is equipped only for comfort or additional heating, then a minimum step of 150 mm can be made. So, what layout step should be applied?

In rooms where there are external walls, so-called edge zones where the pipes are laid in increments of 100-150 mm. In this case, the number of rows of pipes in these zones should be 5-6.
In the centers of the premises, as well as in those where there are no external walls, the laying step is 200-300 mm.
Bathrooms, baths, paths near the pools are laid with a pipe with a pitch of 150 mm over the entire area.

Ways of laying the contours of the warm floor

The contours of a water-heated floor can be laid in different ways. And each method has its advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider them.

Laying a pipe for underfloor heating "snake" easier to install, but its significant drawback is that there will be a noticeable temperature difference on the floor at the beginning of the circuit and at the end - up to 5-10 ° C. The coolant, passing from the supply manifold to the return one in the underfloor heating structure, cools down. Therefore, there is such a temperature gradient, well felt by the feet. It is justified to use this laying method in boundary zones, where the floor temperature should decrease from the outer wall to the center of the room.

Laying a pipe for underfloor heating "snail" more difficult to implement, but with this method, the temperature of the entire floor will be approximately equal, since the supply and return pass inside each other, and the difference is leveled by a massive floor screed when the design requirements of the laying step are met. In 90% of cases, this method is used.

Combined methods of laying underfloor heating pipes are also used very frequently. For example, the edge zones are laid with a snake, and the main area with a snail. This can help to correctly divide the room into contours, distribute the pipe bay with a minimum of residues and provide the desired mode.

Each method can be used variable paving pitch when in the edge zones it is 100-150 mm, and in the room itself 200-300 mm. Then it is possible to meet the requirements for more intense heating of the edge zones in one room without using other laying methods. Experienced installers often do just that.

Layout of the heating circuit with a "snail" with a constant step (left) and with a variable bare (right)

To calculate contours, it is best to use a special and very easy-to-learn software. For example, the well-known manufacturer Valtec, which distributes its program for free. There are also more simple programs to calculate the layout of the contours, which count the length of the loops, which is very convenient. For example, the program "Snail", which is also distributed free of charge. For those who are not very friendly with a computer, you can do the calculation of the contours on your own, using millimeter paper, on which you can draw a floor plan on a scale and “lay out” the contours on this sheet with a pencil and calculate their length.

When dividing the premises into contours of a water-heated floor, the following requirements must be met:

The contours should not move from room to room - all rooms should be regulated separately. An exception may be bathrooms if they are located nearby. For example, a bathroom next to a toilet.
One heating circuit must not heat a room larger than 40 m2. If necessary, the room is divided into several circuits. The maximum length of any side of the loop must not exceed 8 meters.
Along the perimeter of the room, between rooms, as well as between individual circuits, a special damper tape should be laid, which, after pouring the screed, will compensate for its thermal expansion.

Choosing the type of insulation for underfloor heating and its thickness

Insulation for a warm water floor is mandatory, because no one would like to spend their money on heating the earth, the atmosphere or unnecessary building structures, but the floor is exactly the right one, which should take the lion's share of the heat from the heating circuit. For this, a heater is used. What types should be used? Among all their diversity, the authors of the article recommend that you should pay attention to only two of them.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). This material has low thermal conductivity and high mechanical strength. EPPS is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it. Its price is quite affordable. This insulation is produced in the form of plates standard sizes 500*1000 mm or 600*1250 mm and thickness 20, 30, 50. 80 or 100 mm. For good joining of the plates on the side surfaces there are special grooves.

Profile heat-insulating from expanded polystyrene of high density. On their surface there are special round or rectangular bosses, between which it is very convenient to lay the pipe without additional fixation. The pipe fastening pitch is usually 50 mm. This is very convenient during installation, but at a price they are much higher than XPS boards, especially from famous brands. They are produced with a thickness of 1 to 3 cm and dimensions of 500 * 1000 mm or 60 * 1200 mm - it depends on the manufacturer.

XPS boards can have an additional foil layer with additional markings. Marking the plates is, of course, useful, but the presence of foil only increases the cost of the insulation, and there will be no sense in it for two reasons.

The reflectivity declared by the manufacturers will not work in an opaque medium, such as a screed.
Cement mortar is a strong alkaline environment, which will perfectly "eat" an insignificant (several tens of microns) layer of aluminum even before it hardens. We must realize that foil plates are a marketing ploy and nothing more.

The authors of the article recommend using XPS boards for insulation. Savings compared to profile mats will be obvious. The difference in cost is enough for fasteners, and there is still a lot of money left. Let's remember folk wisdom that money saved is like money earned.

What thickness should be the insulation in the design of the warm water floor cake? There are special and complex calculations, but you can do without them. If you learn a few simple rules.

If warm floors will be made on the ground, then the thickness of the insulation must be at least 100 mm. It is best to make two layers of 50 mm and lay them in mutually perpendicular directions.
If warm floors are planned in rooms above the basement floor, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 50 mm.
If warm floors are planned above rooms heated from below, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 30 mm.

Additionally, it is necessary to provide for the fastening of XPS boards to the base material, since when pouring the screed, they will tend to float. Dish-shaped dowels are ideal for this. They need to fasten all the plates at the joints and in the center.

To fasten the pipe to the EPS, special harpoon-brackets are used, which securely fix the pipe. They are fastened at intervals of 30-50 cm, and in the places where the PEX pipe turns, the pitch should be 10 cm. It is usually calculated that 500 pieces of harpoon-staples are required for a 200-meter pipe bay. When purchasing them, you do not have to chase the brand, as it will cost several times more. There are very high-quality and inexpensive staples of Russian manufacturers.

The choice of the collector-mixing node of the warm floor

Water floor collector - essential element, which receives the coolant from the main, distributes it along the circuits, regulates the flow and temperature, balances the loops of the circuits, and helps to remove air. Not a single warm water floor can do without it.

It is better to entrust the choice of a collector, and more correctly, a collector-mixing unit, to specialists who will select the necessary components. In principle, it can be assembled independently, but this is a topic for a separate article. Let's just list which elements should be included in order not to make a mistake in choosing.

Firstly, these are the collectors themselves, which can be equipped with various fittings. They must be equipped with adjusting (balancing) valves with or without flow meters, which are located on the supply manifold, and on the return manifold there may be thermostatic valves or simply shut-off valves.

Secondly, any collector for removing air from the system must be equipped with an automatic air vent.
Thirdly, both the supply and return manifolds must have drain valves to drain the coolant from the manifold and remove air when the system is filled.
Fourthly, fittings must be used to connect the pipe to the manifold, which are selected individually in each case.

Fifthly, special brackets are used to fasten the collectors and ensure the required center distance.

Sixthly, if the boiler room is not equipped with a separate riser for underfloor heating, then a mixing unit, including a pump, a thermostatic valve, a bypass, should be responsible for the preparation of the coolant. The design of this node has many implementations, so this issue will be discussed in a separate article.

And, finally, the entire manifold-mixing unit should be located in a manifold cabinet, which is installed either in a niche or openly.

The collector-mixing unit is located in such a place that all the lengths of the lines from it to the underfloor heating loops are approximately equal and the main pipes are in close proximity. The collector cabinet is often hidden in a niche, then it can be placed not only in change houses and boiler rooms, but in dressing rooms, corridors and even living rooms.

Video: What calculations are needed before installing a warm floor

Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor

After calculations and the purchase of all the necessary components, you can gradually implement a warm water floor. First, it is necessary to outline the places where manifold cabinets will be placed, hollow out, if necessary, niches, and also make passages through building structures. All grooving and drilling work must be completed before the next step.

Insulation installation

Before this stage, it is necessary to prepare the premises for this - take out everything unnecessary, remove all construction debris, sweep and vacuum the floors. The room must be absolutely clean. When installing the plates, wear flat-soled shoes, as heels can damage the surface. We list the sequence of actions during the installation of insulation.

First of all, the level of the clean floor is beaten off on the walls with the help of laser or water. All the irregularities of the base are measured using a long rule and a level.
If the irregularities exceed 10 mm, then they can be completely leveled with clean and dry sand, which should subsequently be leveled.

If the underfloor heating is done on the ground or above the basement floor, then a waterproofing film is spread with an overlap of adjacent strips of at least 10 cm and with entry to the wall. The joints are sealed with adhesive tape. As a waterproofing, a polyethylene film of 150-200 microns is quite suitable.
Starting from the far corner of the room, the process of laying XPS boards begins. They are laid close to the walls with the marked surface up.
XPS boards must be tightly joined to each other using the grooves that are on their side surfaces. When laying each slab, it must fit snugly against the base and be in a horizontal plane, which is checked building level. If necessary, sand is poured under the slab.

If along the laying path there are obstacles in the form of protrusions, columns and other elements, then after preliminary marking, the slab is cut with a construction knife along a metal ruler. In this case, the EPS must be placed on some kind of unstable base so that the knife does not become dull, for example, a piece of plywood or OSB.
When laying the next row, it should be borne in mind that the joints of the plates should not coincide, but go apart, like brickwork. In order, if a part of at least 1/3 of its length remains with the remaining XPS slab in the row, then laying the next row should begin with it.
If it is planned to lay the second layer of XPS, then it should be carried out in a mutually perpendicular direction with the first layer.
After laying the thermal insulation, using a perforator with a long drill and a hammer, fix the dish-shaped dowels at each joint - at each joint and in the center of each XPS board. The joints between the EPPS are sealed with construction tape.

If cavities or gaps remain after the installation of the insulation, then they can be clogged with EPS scraps and blown out with mounting foam, but this can be done later, after the pipes have been installed.

After that, we can say that the installation of insulation is completed. Although XPS boards are dense enough to support the weight of an adult, you still need to take precautions when moving on them. It is best to use wide boards or pieces of plywood or OSB.

Installation of a pipe of a warm water floor

The most crucial and difficult moment has come - the installation of floor heating pipes. At this stage, you need to be especially careful and accurate, and here you can’t do without an assistant. It is also desirable to have a special device for unwinding the pipe, since it is strictly forbidden to remove the pipe from the coil with rings, since then there will be very strong stresses in it, which will complicate or make installation impossible. The main rule is that the coil must be twisted, and not removed from the fixed coil. In principle, this can be done manually, but with a device it is much easier.

If there are markings on the upper side of the XPS boards, then this is just great, then pipe laying will be greatly simplified. And if not, then you should not “be led” to purchase foil thin insulation from the made foam polyethylene with the put marking. There will be no sense from him. You can also mark up yourself. To do this, marks are made on the upper side of the plates with a marker at the distance of the required contour step, and then lines are beaten off with a paint thread - this way you can make markings in a short time. After that, you can draw the paths of the contours of the warm floor.

screed for underfloor heating

In the intended place, a collector cabinet is attached and a collector is mounted in it, while without a pumping and mixing group, it will be needed later. At the entrance to the collector, at the exit from it, as well as at the entrance to, each pipe must be protected by a special corrugation. However, corrugation from eminent manufacturers costs mind-boggling money, so it is quite acceptable to replace it with thermal insulation of the appropriate diameter. Pipes must also be protected when passing from room to room and from circuit to circuit.

Installation of the underfloor heating pipe should be started from the areas most remote from the collectors, and all transit pipes should be insulated with polyethylene foam, which will ensure maximum energy conservation to the destination point and will not “lose” heat along the way. Further, the pipe “emerges” from the EPS boards, already “naked” bypasses its entire heating circuit and “dives” back and already in thermal insulation follows to the collector. The transit pipes themselves are placed inside the XPS slabs; for this, passage routes are pre-cut into them with a knife.

If the thermal insulation consists of two layers of XPS boards, then the first layer is laid first, then all communications are laid, including the transit pipes of the underfloor heating, and then the second layer is adjusted and cut on the spot.

In addition, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe warm floor, pipes to radiators, as well as hot and cold water supply lines, can go. If there are several pipes, then they can be fixed in a bundle either with dish-shaped dowels, or with a perforated metal strip and dowels. In any case, they should not protrude beyond the upper surface of the XPS boards, so that the contour of the warm floor can be easily laid from above. All cavities are blown out with mounting foam, which, after hardening, is cut flush from the surface of the insulation boards.

Along the perimeter of the room where there will be warm floors, a damper tape is glued to the walls, which is designed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed. Tape comes with or without adhesive. When acquiring it, you do not have to chase the brand and overpay several times more. Now a Russian-made damper tape worthy in every sense is being produced. If there is no tape at all, then this is also not a problem - it can be replaced by foam plastic 1 or 2 cm thick, glued to the wall with liquid nails or mounting foam.

The damper tape must also be installed between rooms and different circuits. For this, a special tape with a T-shaped profile is produced. And in this case, it can be replaced by thin foam glued with mounting foam or glue.

Pipe installation is done as follows:

10-15 m of pipe is unwound from the coil, thermal insulation and a corresponding fitting are put on its end for connection to the collector.
The pipe is connected to the supply of the corresponding outlet of the collector.
A pipe is laid along the previously marked routes and fastened with harpoon-brackets in straight sections after 30-40 cm, and on turns after 10-15 cm. The pipe should be bent carefully, without creases.

When laying, do not try to fasten the pipe immediately, but you should first lay it out approximately along the tracks for 5-10 m, and only then fasten it with brackets. The pipe should lie on the insulation without tension, there should be no effort that tries to pull the staples out of the EPS.
If for some reason the bracket flew out of its place, then it is mounted in another, at a distance of at least 5 cm.
After bypassing the entire circuit of the warm floor, the return pipe returns to its supply pipe and follows it next to the collector. If necessary, thermal insulation is put on it.
Upon arrival at the collector, the pipe is connected to it with an appropriate fitting.

Near the corresponding loop of the warm floor on the wall, as well as on paper, the length of the contour is necessarily recorded. This data is necessary for further balancing.

All contours are laid in the same way. At first it will be difficult, but then, after one laid “snail”, everything will already be clear and the work will go without problems. When moving along already laid contours, it is necessary to lay boards, plywood or OSB under the legs or knees.

Walking in shoes through pipes is not recommended. It is better to organize such "paths"

Video: Laying a floor heating pipe

Reinforcing mesh installation

Disputes about the appropriateness of reinforcing mesh are ongoing. Someone says that it is needed, others say the opposite. There are many examples of successful implementation of underfloor heating without reinforcing mesh and, at the same time, there are examples of unsuccessful implementation of underfloor heating with reinforcement. The authors of the article argue that reinforcement will never be superfluous, but only correctly performed.

The Internet is replete with examples when a metal mesh is laid and fixed on the insulation, and only then a warm floor pipe is attached to it with plastic ties. It seems to be convenient, but this is not reinforcement, but simply putting an absolutely useless mesh under the screed, on which money was spent. Reinforcement is when the mesh is inside the screed, and not under it. That is why the authors recommend placing the grid on top of the pipe.

For reinforcing the screed, a metal mesh made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm with a cell size of 100 * 100 mm is suitable - this is quite enough. It is not recommended to use reinforcement meshes due to the fact that the reinforcement has a corrugated surface and during installation can damage the smooth surface of the pipe. Yes, and you should not spend extra money on excessive strength of the screed, because it is assumed that the warm floor is already mounted on a fairly solid foundation. The mesh is laid with an overlap on one cell and is connected either with a knitting wire or plastic clamps. Sharp protruding ends must be bitten off so that they do not damage the pipe. Additionally, the mesh is attached to the pipe in several places with plastic clamps.

Instead of a metal mesh, a plastic mesh may well be used, which will perfectly reinforce the screed and save it from cracking. It is more convenient to lay a plastic mesh, as it comes in rolls. Application plastic mesh virtually eliminates damage to pipes, and its cost is significantly lower.

After laying the mesh, the question of protecting the pipes again arises, because, moving in shoes along a metal mesh, you can easily damage both it and the pipe. Therefore, it is again recommended to move only on boards, plywood or OSB. But there is still a very competent solution that will avoid damage to the pipes when pouring the screed.

being prepared cement mortar- the same as it will be when laying the screed (1 part of M400 cement and 3 parts of sand) and in the process of laying “blogs” are made from the mortar, which protrude slightly beyond the surface of the grid - 2 cm is enough. These "blobs" are made at such intervals (30-50 cm), which will allow you to put boards or plywood on them in the future and move completely safely. Another plus of this approach is the fixation of the mesh, because when walking on it, it tends to bend, and this can damage the welds.

"Foots" from the solution will fix the grid and help you move safely

Filling in contours. Hydraulic tests

This operation should definitely be carried out even before the screed is poured, since with a hidden malfunction it is easier to fix it immediately than after the floors are filled. To do this, a hose is connected to the drain pipe on the collector and discharged into the sewer, since a lot of water will be spilled through the heating circuits. It is best if the hose is transparent - it will be easy to track the exit of air bubbles.

To the inlet of the supply manifold, which must be equipped with a shut-off ball valve, tap water is connected through a hose or pipe. If the quality of tap water is low, then it is worth filling the system through a mechanical filter. A pressure test pump is connected to any other output connected to the underfloor heating circuits. This may be a free outlet of the supply manifold, a return outlet from the manifold and other places - it all depends on the specific implementation of the collector unit. In the end, a tee can be screwed into the ball shut-off valve of the supply manifold and both filling the system and pressure testing can be done through it. After testing, the tee can be removed and the manifold connected to the supply line.

Filling the system is done as follows:

On the collector, all the contours of the warm floor are blocked, except for one. Automatic air vents must be open.
Water is supplied and its purity and air outlet are controlled through the drain hose. Process grease and chips may remain on the inner surface of the pipes during production, which must be washed off with running water.
After all the air has escaped and the water flows absolutely clean, the drain valve is closed, and then the already washed and filled circuit is closed.
All these operations are done with all contours.
After flushing, removing air and filling all circuits, the water supply valve is closed.

If leaks are detected even at the filling stage, they are eliminated immediately after the pressure is released. As a result, you should get a system of warm water floors filled with a clean coolant and airless.

To test the system, you will need a special tool - a pressure test pump, which can be rented or invited by an experienced craftsman who has such a device. Let us describe the sequence of actions during crimping.

All contours of a heat-insulated floor connected to a collector open completely.
Pour into the capacity of the pressure pump pure water, the pump feed valve opens.
The pump builds up pressure in the system twice as much as the working one - 6 atmospheres, it is controlled by the pump pressure gauge and on the manifold (if it has a pressure gauge).
After raising the pressure, a visual inspection of all pipes and connections is carried out, which, in principle, should only be on the collector. The pressure is also controlled by a manometer.
After 30 minutes, the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and all pipes and connections are again inspected. Then, after 30 minutes, these steps are repeated. If leaks are found, they are immediately eliminated after the pressure is released.
If no leaks are detected, then the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and the system is left for a day.
If after a day the pressure in the system dropped by no more than 1.5 bar and no leaks were detected, then the underfloor heating system can be considered properly installed and sealed.

When the pressure in the system rises, the pipe, according to all the laws of physics, will try to straighten up, therefore, it is possible to “shoot” some brackets in those places where they were “greedy” with them. Therefore, the "blobs" from the solution will greatly help to keep the pipe in place. In the future, when the screed is poured, the pipe will be securely fixed, but during pressure tests, a poorly fixed pipe can bring unpleasant surprises.

Video: Filling the system with coolant

Video: Crimping underfloor heating system

Installation of beacons

The underfloor heating screed must be poured through pipes under operating pressure. Considering that in most closed heating systems operating pressure should be in the range of 1-3 bar, you can take the average value and leave a pressure of 2 bar in the circuits.

As beacons, it is best to use guide plasterboard profiles PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27. They have sufficient rigidity and a smooth top surface, which is very useful when leveling the screed.

Lighthouses should be installed at the level of the finished floor minus the thickness of the finishing floor covering. To fix them, very often they simply use mortar pads, on which a guide profile is laid, and then it is sunk in level. But this approach has a disadvantage in that if the beacon fell below the required level, it has to be taken out, put in a fresh solution and set up again.

It is best if the beacons from the guide profile will have a rigid support under them and dowels for concrete and a screw of the appropriate length can serve as it. It is preferable to use special screws for concrete - dowels, which do not require the installation of a dowel, which means that the drilling diameter will be smaller. If you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 10-12 mm for the dowel, then 6 mm is enough for the dowel. The upper surface of the screw head should be at the level of the surface of the future screed.

Screws for concrete - pins

Beacons should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the walls. Between lighthouses should not be long distance, since the solution tends to settle and a hole may form on the already finished screed. Optimal - 1.5 m, then use to level the screed building rule 2 m. When installing beacons, do the following:

From the walls to the left and right of the entrance, two lines are drawn at a distance of 30 cm - this will be the position of the extreme lighthouses.
The distance between these two lines is divided into equal parts so that it does not exceed 150 cm. It is desirable that one of the strips falls directly at the entrance to the room. If necessary, the strip attributable to the input can be smaller.
Position lines for future lighthouses are drawn on the floor. Marks are made on them for the location of the dowels in increments of 40-50 cm.
Holes are drilled to a predetermined depth with a perforator with a drill corresponding to the dowel.

To set the dowel caps in the same plane, it is best to use a laser level. If it is not in the arsenal of the home master, then it does not matter, now this one is very useful tool can be rented, especially since it is only needed for one day.

The laser level is an indispensable tool for marking and installing beacons

The position of the beacons is marked on the wall. To do this, the thickness of the finishing floor covering is subtracted from the level of the clean floor previously drawn on the wall. The laser level is set at this mark, and then, screwing or unscrewing the dowels, their caps are set at the same level. If you use the usual building level for this operation, it will take much longer, and the error will be higher.

Further, guide profiles are laid on the caps of the dowels, the correct installation is checked by the building level. To fix the beacons in their places, use a cement mortar of the same formulation as for floor screed (1 part cement + 3 parts sand).

The beacons are removed from the caps of the dowels, and then slides are made from the prepared solution slightly higher than the height of the screed. It is enough to make them after 1 meter, since the lighthouse will already be securely fixed on the caps of the dowels. Further, the profile is laid and pressed into the solution, and its excess from above is immediately removed with a spatula. In conclusion, the level checks the correct installation of all beacons.

At the same time, you can check the correct installation of all damper tapes separating rooms and circuits and, if necessary, strengthen their position with mortar.

water heated floor

Video: Installation of beacons for underfloor heating screed

Underfloor heating screed

Increased requirements are imposed on the screed of a warm water floor, because in addition to the mechanical loads it carries, it also experiences temperature deformations. And usually a cement-sand mortar will not work here, the concrete mixture must be modified with a plasticizer and fiber.

The plasticizer is designed to reduce the water-cement ratio, increase the mobility of the mixture and increase its drying strength. Mobility when laying a warm floor screed is extremely important, since the mortar must tightly “grasp” the pipes and easily release air bubbles out. Without the use of a plasticizer, the only way to increase the mobility of the mixture is to add water to it. But then only part of the water will react with the cement, and the rest will evaporate for a long time, which will increase the setting and solidification time and reduce the strength of the screed. The water/cement ratio should be just enough to allow the screed to set. Usually, 0.45-0.55 kg of water is needed for 1 kg of cement.

The plasticizer is available in liquid and dry form. It must be used exactly as the manufacturer recommends, and nothing else. Any "substitutes" in the form of liquid soap, washing powder, PVA glue are unacceptable.

The fiber is designed for dispersed reinforcement of the concrete mixture, which allows to significantly reduce or virtually eliminate the formation of cracks, increase strength and abrasion resistance, increase bending and compressive strength. This is achieved by the fact that the microfibers of the fiber are distributed and fasten the screed throughout the volume of the concrete mixture.

Fiber is metal, polypropylene and basalt. For underfloor heating screed, it is recommended to use polypropylene or basalt fiber. Add it according to the manufacturer's recommendations, but it is recommended to use at least 500 grams of polypropylene fiber per 1 m 3 of the finished solution. To get a mixture with the best properties, add 800 or more grams per 1 m 3.

On sale you can find ready-made mixtures for pouring underfloor heating screeds from well-known and not very manufacturers. The composition of these mixtures already includes a plasticizer, and fiber, and other components. With the undoubted convenience of their use and high quality, the cost of the finished screed will be significantly higher than the self-prepared solution.

Before pouring the screed, it is necessary to remove all unnecessary objects from the floor, if necessary, vacuum the surfaces. It is also necessary to prepare all the tools and utensils for mixing and transporting the solution. All work on pouring the underfloor heating screed in the room should be done at a time, so it is advisable to have two assistants: one prepares the solution, the second wears it, and the main performer lays and levels the screed. All windows in the room should be closed, the screed should be limited from exposure to drafts and direct sunlight.

Self-preparation of a solution for underfloor heating screed should be carried out only mechanized way– the quality of the solution must be high. As auxiliary mechanisms, a concrete mixer or construction mixer. No attachments for a drill or a hammer drill will work here, no matter what various “true” sources say.

The basis of the solution is Portland cement grade not lower than M400, which must be dry and with a storage time of no more than 6 months after the date of issue. The sand must also be dry, washed and sieved. river sand does not fit - it has too regular shape. For a screed, the ratio of cement to sand should be 1:3 by weight, but in practice, few people weigh sand and cement, but a universal measurement method is taken - a bucket. Considering that the density building sand is in the range of 1.3-1.8 t / m 3, and cement during transportation 1.5-1.6 t / m 3, then you can not be afraid to measure cement and sand in buckets, since the quality of the mixture will be quite acceptable.

The water in the composition of the mortar should be approximately one third of the mass of cement, that is, for 1 bag of 50 kg of cement, approximately 15 liters of water are needed. However, the use of a plasticizer reduces the water-cement ratio, therefore, when preparing a solution with water, you need to be very careful - it is better to underfill a little and then add than to overfill.

The technology for preparing the solution with a mixer and a concrete mixer is slightly different. With a mixer, it is necessary to stir dry cement, sand and fluffed polypropylene or basalt fiber at low speeds and then gradually add water with a plasticizer dissolved in it. In gravity-type concrete mixers, which are the vast majority, it is difficult to mix dry cement and sand (dry cement sticks to wet blades and drum), so first pour some water with a plasticizer into it, and then gradually add cement first, then sand, then another portion of cement and the rest of the water. Fiber is added gradually. One part with water, the other with sand. At the same time, the fiber cannot be thrown into the concrete mixer drum in a lump, but it must be divided into portions and fluffed before laying.

The preparation time of the mortar in a concrete mixer is usually 3-4 minutes, and with a mixer a little more - 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the solution is determined by a uniform color and consistency. If you take a lump of solution in your hands and squeeze it, then water should not stand out from it, but at the same time the solution should be plastic. If you place the solution in a slide on the floor, then it should not spread much, but only settle a little under its own weight. If you make cuts in it with a spatula, they should not blur, but should keep their shape.

The laying of the screed starts from the far corners of the room and is carried out in stripes along the lighthouses. Only after the completion of one strip, the next one is laid and leveled, the process should end at the entrance to the room. In the process of leveling, it is not necessary to immediately try to perfectly level the surface of the screed along the beacons. The main thing is that there are no dips in the screed, and small influxes and traces of the rule are easily corrected later.

After 1-2 days (it all depends on external conditions), when it is already possible to walk on the screed, it is necessary to clean its surface. First, it is cut with a construction knife and the damper tape protruding from the screed is removed, and then the construction rule is taken and pressed with a sharp end to the plane of the lighthouses. In the direction away from you, short but vigorous movements are carried out until the beacons are completely exposed. Then the resulting debris is removed, the screed is moistened from the sprayer and covered with plastic wrap.

The next day, the beacons are carefully removed, the dowels can be unscrewed, and the resulting grooves are rubbed with a solution or tile adhesive. The screed is moistened and covered again, it is recommended to do this daily for the first 10 days after pouring.

Balancing the contours of the warm floor. Commissioning

After the full maturation of the screed, and this is at least 28 days, you can begin to balance the contours of the warm floor. And in this process, flow meters on the manifold will be very helpful. That is why it is necessary to purchase a manifold with balancing valves and flow meters.

The fact is that the loops of the warm floor have different lengths, respectively, they have different hydraulic resistance. Obviously, the "lion's share" of the coolant will always follow the path of least resistance - that is, along the shortest circuit, while others will get much less. At the same time, in the longest circuit, the circulation will be so sluggish that there can be no talk of any heat removal. In a well-designed underfloor heating project, the flow rate in each circuit and the position of the control valves are always indicated, but if the underfloor heating is done on its own, then a simplified but effective technique will do.

If the pumping and mixing unit is not yet connected, then it is being installed. The underfloor heating collector is connected to the supply and return lines.
All circuits of the warm floor open completely, the collectors of the ball valves for supply and return open at the inlet. Automatic air vent valves must be open.
The circulation is turned on. The maximum temperature is set on the head of the mixing unit, but the boiler does not turn on yet, the coolant must circulate at room temperature.
The pressure in the entire heating system is brought to the working one (1-3 bar).
All contours of the warm floor are closed, except for the longest one. The position of the flow meter on this circuit is noted and recorded.
The second longest circuit is fully opened. If the flow in it is greater, then the balancing valve is twisted until the flow is equal to the longest one.

Further, all circuits are sequentially opened in descending order of their length, the flow is regulated by balancing valves.
As a result, the flow rate in all circuits should be the same. If this is not the case, then you can correct the adjustment on the contours without touching the longest loop.

All of the above operations are performed correctly and the flow meters show that circulation occurs in the circuits, then you can start testing the underfloor heating with a heated coolant. It is necessary to start from low temperatures - from 25 ° C, and then every day gradually increase the temperature by 5 ° C, until the coolant is supplied to the circuits with its operating temperature. What is the sequence of actions at this stage.

The temperature control valve of the mixing unit is set to 25°C, the circulation pump at the first speed and in this mode, they let the system work for a day. At the same time, the circulation through the flow meters is controlled and corrected.
After a day, the temperature rises to 30°C, and the system of warm floors is left again for a day. The flow and temperature of the supply and return are controlled.
The next day, the temperature rises by another 5°C, up to 35°C. This is already much closer to the operating mode of the underfloor heating, so it is already worth adjusting the temperature difference between the supply and return collectors. If it is in the range of 5-10°C, then this is normal, and if more, then the speed of the circulation pump should be increased by one step.
The maximum temperature to which you can raise the temperature in the floor heating supply manifold is 50 ° C, but it is better not to do this, but check it in operating modes - 45 ° C or 40 ° C. Similarly, the temperature difference between the supply and return is checked. The pump must run at the lowest possible speed so that the temperature difference is up to 10°C.

The correctness of the adjustment of the warm floor cannot be assessed immediately, since such a heating system is very inertial. It should take several hours to feel the change in temperature. Therefore, everyone who made their own underfloor heating should arm themselves with patience and gradually bring the system to a mode that would provide the desired floor temperature, taking into account the coating. To do this, you will need to “play around” with the settings of the balancing valves, thermal heads (if the collector is equipped with them) and the speed of the circulation pump. The main thing is that the do-it-yourself water-heated floor system works.

Find out how by studying the instructions with a photo in a special article on our portal.

Conclusion

Stubborn statistics suggests that the system of warm water floors, in addition to the obvious comfort, also provides significant energy savings. The same statistics indicate that the number of successful independent implementations of such heating is growing every year. All technologies have already been worked out, the market is flooded with any components, for every taste, color and budget. The necessary information is always in open sources, you can always ask experts for advice. The team of authors hopes that this article has dispelled the initial fear and made it clear to readers that it is quite possible to make a water heated floor with your own hands.

Video: How to calculate and make a do-it-yourself water-heated floor

Each owner of a private house is faced with the question of choosing the optimal type of heating, which will not only adequately perform its functions, but also be in harmony with modern design. Bulky heating radiators are obsolete, worsen the interior of the room and dry the air. An alternative is a water heated floor, for a private house this is the most effective option.

What is a water heated floor

We bring to your attention not only a list of components, but also the principle of their selection.

Pipes. For the installation of floor heating, plastic or metal are used. plastic pipes. V Lately recognition of plumbers received pipes made of cross-linked polypropylene, which differ from other pipes in high resistance to deformation, excellent thermal conductivity and a high degree tightness.

An important condition when choosing pipes is their suitability for use in heating systems. Unfortunately, some unscrupulous sellers, taking advantage of the incompetence of the client, sell pipes intended for water supply. The result is an inefficient floor heating system. To avoid this, you need to look at the markings that are on each pipe:

linear expansion no more than 0.025 mm/m;
thermal conductivity from 0.43 W / m 0 C.

The required amount of pipe depends on such indicators as the laying step and the diameter of the material. See the table for details.

Boiler. You can buy gas, electric or solid fuel. The choice will be determined by the region of residence. For example, if there are power outages, it is better to buy a gas boiler. If we talk about power, then it depends on many indicators. For a standard house with insulated walls, plastic windows and a ceiling height of at least 3 meters, the following calculation is made: the specific power per square meter should be 100 W or 1 kW per 10 m 2. Knowing the total area of the house, you can calculate the power of the boiler. In this case, it is better to include a power reserve, about 20%.

Collector. Ensures the operability of the entire water floor and maintains the temperature set by the thermostat. It is best not to save money, but to buy a collector consisting of a flow sensor, a drain valve and a Mayevsky valve (it bleeds the air that has entered the system). Additionally, you will need to select a shield.

Circulation pump. It is purchased if it is not already built into the boiler. This device circulates water in the system and can be equipped with a thermostat that will control the flow rate of water and, thereby, regulate the temperature in the system. The ideal solution is a three-speed pump with a thermostat (installing a temperature controller will require knowledge in the field of electrical engineering and not everyone can do it). You can learn how to choose a pump by performance from the table:

As for the company, it is better to give preference to European manufacturers. The German company Grundfos has proven itself well.

Accessories. This includes couplings, threads, fittings, ball valves, etc. Their required number is calculated individually, based on the characteristics of each water-heated floor system. Floor heating in each particular house has to be calculated and planned individually.

Read also about, which will help to seriously reduce heating costs.

Water floor installation

First of all, you need to inspect the old floor. Linoleum, parquet, boards are subject to dismantling. On a tile, if it is strong enough, you can lay plastic pipes without pouring a rough screed.

The rough screed, otherwise called the “primary”, serves for the most dense laying of thermal insulation. Therefore, at this stage, you can not worry much about the level of the floor and the presence of small irregularities. A layer of concrete a few centimeters thick will suffice. For these purposes, cement of the M-300 brand, mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 4, is suitable.

The next step will be the laying of thermal insulation. There is nothing complicated here, you just need to pay attention to the joints between the material. They need to be fixed with mounting tape to avoid unnecessary heat loss.

The material for insulation can be different:

Styrofoam. Although it is considered obsolete insulation, it does an excellent job with the task assigned to it. The only drawback is the fragility.
Foam insulation with foil reflective layer.
Expanded polystyrene insulation for underfloor heating. This material is best suited for insulation. Possessing a high density, expanded polystyrene (otherwise penoplex) perfectly insulates the water floor from the cold concrete base. You can use Penoplex 35, which is resistant to fire.

The last step will be the installation of a reinforced mesh with a reinforcement cross section of 5 mm and a mesh size of 10-15 cm. It will be possible to attach the pipes themselves to it using plastic ties. Moreover, reinforced mesh serves as a bonding structure for the concrete floor. Or you can lay special mats for the water floor.

The secrets of the masters when installing pipes for floor heating

Do-it-yourself work itself does not have any particular difficulties, but there are a number of nuances, the knowledge of which will help to carry out the installation correctly.

Choice of laying scheme. Two laying methods are known: snake and snail (spiral). The latter option is preferable. The fact is that when laying the pipe with a “snake”, the water temperature decreases towards the end of the loop, which entails uneven heating of the floor. The location of the pipe in a spiral will help to avoid this: the floor warms up evenly. At the same time, much less material is required.

How long should the pipe be? Regardless of the power of the selected boiler, the water will cool as it moves away from the point of entry. Therefore, the recommended pipe length is 100 m. In case a larger value is needed, several circuits are used, each of which is connected to the collector separately.

How to calculate the laying step? Only an experienced designer can accurately calculate the step: to obtain the correct value, many factors are taken into account, from wall thickness and window sizes to pipe diameter. However, there are averaged data, which we will use. The optimal laying step for the system, which is the main source of heat in the house, is 10-20 cm. This value is not constant. Near the outer walls, the first 5-6 rows are laid in increments of 5-6 cm, closer to interior walls and in the middle of the room, the step increases to the above data.

Today, hardware stores have special mats for underfloor heating, which greatly simplify and speed up the process of laying pipes. See the photo for how it works.

The use of mats for warm water floors

How to solder pipes? There are also several subtleties in this issue that need to be covered in the framework of the article:

connect the pipes to each other, it is better through special adapters (otherwise barrels);
if metal-plastic pipes are soldered, then the metal sheath must be removed at a distance of about 3 cm from the edge of the pipe.

For achievement High Quality connection must be guided by the following table.

Assembly, installation, connection of the collector

It should be noted that the installation process of the collector will differ depending on the model, the number of heating circuits, and the selected components. In order for the system to function flawlessly, the assembly must be carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to the devices.

Where is the collector located? When choosing a place for mounting the collector box, it is necessary to take into account the equivalent distance from all circuits. This is necessary to ensure uniform water pressure in all circuits. If the wall on which the collector cabinet is installed is not load-bearing, you can make a niche in it.

How to assemble a collector?

Consider the assembly process using the Icma UPS model as an example. At the same time, we will take into account that the circulation pump and the collector itself are used together, this will ensure ease of heating control.

On the union nuts we install a circulation pump, gaskets are needed between the nut itself and the pump.
We connect the manifold with the pumping group, winding the adapters with the union nut and not forgetting the gaskets.
A thermostat and a valve responsible for the supply of cold water (mixing) must be connected to the mixing unit.
We connect the mixing group to the collector.

Now the collector can be installed in the installation cabinet, connect the supply and return to the distributor from below, then connect the elements of the heating circuit using adapters.

Boiler installation: features, sequence

When connecting the boiler to the underfloor heating system, a problem often arises. The fact is that the boiler produces a water temperature of 75-80 0 C, and for the normal operation of a water-heated floor, a temperature of no more than 45 0 C is required. For this reason, the connection must be made in such a way that water with a lower temperature is supplied to the pipes. There is only one way to do this in a closed heating system: dilute the hot water with the cooled water coming from the “return”. This function is performed by the underfloor heating mixing unit.

Floor heating during installation must be assembled according to the following scheme, starting from the boiler:

At the beginning of the circuit, a control valve is installed, then a circulation pump and a manifold.
Between the valve and the pump, a mixing unit is mounted in such a way that the cooled water from the "return" flows into the supply and further, through the circulation pump to the heating system.
The final stage is bringing the return pipe to the boiler.

At the same time, it must be remembered that the principle of installing the boiler itself will differ from different models and types of equipment.

Pressing and trial run

After graduation installation work you need to test the system. To do this, pressurization is carried out.

There are two ways to check the tightness of the system: pressurized water or compressed air. The first option is preferable: after checking for leaks, you can immediately turn on the heating. An air test is used when the heated floors are powered by central heating, and there is no certainty that it will turn on in time. In any case, the pressure should not exceed 6 bar. The system is considered operational if in 24 hours the pressure indicator has decreased by no more than 1.5 bar.

After the tightness test, a full start-up can be carried out. The water temperature should be about 80 0 C, for this the mixing unit must be turned off. At this temperature, the stress in the pipes is reduced, which ensures the durability of the structure.

Conclusion

It is necessary to pour a concrete screed after the water in the pipes has completely cooled down. For screed, you can use both traditional concrete and a solution for underfloor heating, which has a higher ability to conduct heat. The layer thickness should not exceed 7 cm.

After the final drying, the screeds can be laid flooring.

Unlike electric floor heating on a liquid heat carrier, it requires more complex calculations for integration into the heating system. The service life and efficiency of the system directly depend on the correct choice of materials, fittings, installation and heating scheme.

Choosing pipes for floor heating

Contrary to popular belief, the choice of pipes for installing a heat exchanger in the floor is not so wide. In total, there are two options: cross-linked polyethylene and copper. The most obvious advantages of special materials are durability, resistance to deformation, and a low coefficient of linear expansion. But the main advantage is the oxygen barrier, which ultimately stops the formation of sediment on the inner surface of the pipes.

The meaning of the use of copper in the high thermal conductivity of the tubes and resistance to corrosion. An obvious disadvantage is the complexity of installation and the high risk of failure in the presence of solid particles (sand) in the coolant. Although soldering requires only an inexpensive gas lamp and flux, bending the coil correctly is a difficult task. This is despite the fact that there can be several tens of turns of a copper tube, and one mistake that caused a break leads to the marriage of the entire segment or the need for additional soldering.

Polymeric (polyethylene) tubes have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion, in addition, they lose their strength properties when heated above operating temperatures, however, in warm floors, in principle, the coolant does not heat up above 40 ° C. Ease of installation is a definite plus. Easily bends and fits in a spiral or serpentine. The pipe is supplied in coils of 200 m, allowing you to lay underfloor heating without a single joint in the entire volume of the future screed. Most branded polyethylene pipes involve the use of a special tool for crimping and welding.

Ensuring circulation

Water heating systems with underfloor heating do not work on the gravitational principle and always remain volatile. Because of this, overheating occurs: failures in the circulation and recirculation system can even supply 70-80ºС, so the funds from savings on the use of polymer tubes should be at least partially spent on improving automation and auxiliary mechanisms.

The flow rate of the coolant in the tubes is strictly regulated by the manufacturer; assigning this task to the general circulation of the system means increasing the risk of malfunctions. A forced circulation device must be installed in front of the collector unit, then each of the circuits is adjusted to adjust the required flow rate. This determines the maximum loop length of each circuit and the temperature difference at its beginning and end.

For pumping water in the system use circulation pumpsdesigned for radiator heating systems. The diameter of the nozzles is determined by the required throughput of the pipe with which the pump is connected to the manifold. The lift height (or pumping pressure) is determined by the total hydrodynamic resistance of the pipes, declared by their manufacturer for different loop configurations and bending radii. Each connection requires an increase in lift height. Speed adjustment for underfloor heating pumps is not required, however, with accelerated circulation, more intensive pumping of the system is possible to quickly reach the regime.

Collector node

When using more than one branch for floor heating, the presence of a collector assembly (comb) is strictly necessary. Self-soldering the collector, even for two loops, will not give the desired result, it is almost impossible to balance the lines in the absence of uniform distribution and valve regulators.

The collector is selected both by the number of branches and by the total bandwidth. In essence, this is a multi-channel flow controller. Of the body materials, stainless steel and high-quality brass are most preferred. For underfloor heating, two types of collectors can be used. With a difference in the length of the contours of less than 20-30 meters, ordinary brass ones with ball valves are suitable. With a greater spread of hydrodynamic resistances, a specialized collector with flow regulators on each outlet is needed.

Please note that it is not necessary to buy a dual (supply + return) manifold. You can install a high-quality mixer with flow meters on the supply line, and on the return line - a cheaper one with valve (not ball) valves. Separately, it is worth paying attention to what type of pipes the collector assembly is designed for. Most cheap products involve the connection of MP pipes, which are poorly suited for underfloor heating and therefore are used less and less. For polyethylene circuits, it is better to invest in reliable and proven REHAU manifolds, for copper tube systems - Valtec and APE. Accession copper tubes to the manifold is recommended through a flare and / or threaded fitting, direct soldering is not recommended due to the low maintainability of such connections.

Temperature preparation unit

The comb of taps itself is not the whole collector. As an assembly, the mixing unit is completed with special fittings that provide adjustment of the water temperature before it enters the system. Both hot water and cold water can be mixed, which fundamentally determines the specifics of the two types of mixing.

A simple scheme for switching on a warm floor. 1 - three-way valve; 2 - circulation pump; 3 - ball valve with thermometer; 4 - distribution manifold with flow meters; 5 - return manifold with control valves; 6 - contour of the warm floor. The temperature control in the circuit is carried out manually and is highly dependent on the temperature of the coolant at the inlet.

The first type uses a closed circulation cycle, mixing hot water with a three-way valve as needed. The disadvantage of the system is that in the event of a malfunction in the automation or the use of solid fuel boilers, a large amount of hot water can be supplied at a time, which negatively affects the polymers, as well as the floor covering and the microclimate in the room. Therefore, pumping hot water is practiced mainly in systems with copper pipes.

Ready-made mixing unit for underfloor heating. Temperature control and the degree of mixing of the coolant is carried out fully automatically

For polyethylene circuits, more expensive collectors are preferred, mixing cold return water to reduce the incoming temperature. The complexity of such mixing units is due to the presence of an additional recirculation pump. Adjustment can be made both by an adjustable two-way valve, and by an electronic thermostat that controls the speed of the pump motor. The latter is an example of a struggle for accuracy and a decrease in the inertia of the system, by the way, very successful. However, such systems are volatile.

Whether to take the collector assembly is a moot point. Of course, the presence of a guarantee is an obvious plus, but it is not always possible to find a model with the necessary strapping and the number of taps, in such cases you will have to assemble the device yourself.

Warming and storage layer

The pie of a water-heated floor is as follows: polymer foam insulation, heating tubes and a heat-storing screed in order from bottom to top. The thickness and materials used for the base layers must be selected according to the operating parameters of the system.

The insulation is selected taking into account the planned heating temperature, or more precisely, the temperature difference between the warm and subfloor. Mostly use EPS or PPU boards with butt edges. This material is practically incompressible under a distributed load, while the resistance to heat transfer is one of the highest. The approximate thickness of the polymer insulation is 35 mm for a temperature difference of 30 ºС and then 3 mm for every 5 ºС.

Ways to install underfloor heating in a private house. Three options for fastening and distributing pipes are proposed: A - Use of special mounting mats for underfloor heating. B - Installation on a reinforcing mesh with a step of 10 cm using plastic ties. C - Laying pipes in prepared gutters in insulation using reflective screens. The design of the warm floor: 1 - concrete base of the subfloor; 2 - insulation; 3 - damper tape; 4 - concrete screed; 5 - flooring; 6 - reinforcing mesh.

In addition to protecting the pipes from damage, the screed regulates the inertia of the heating system and smoothes out the temperature difference between the floor areas directly above the pipes and between them. If the boiler operates in a cyclic mode, the heated concrete will give off heat, even if there is temporarily no hot water supply. In case of accidental overheating, a heat-intensive screed will ensure the removal of temperature, excluding damage to pipes. The average screed thickness is 1/10-1/15 of the distance between adjacent tubes. By increasing the thickness, you can get rid of the thermal zebra effect with a rare laying of pipes. Naturally, the consumption of materials, as well as the inertia and time for the system to reach the regime, will increase in this case.

When installing underfloor heating on the ground, it is necessary to pour 15-20 cm of an incompressible layer of ASG. Crushed stone for additional thermal insulation can be replaced with expanded clay. On insulated frame floors, a warm floor can be laid immediately on top of a waterproofing agent, which covers the subfloor in order to prevent the release of cement milk from the screed. V best case under the tubes, a thermal cut-off layer of PUF or XPS of 20-25 mm is arranged. Even such a thin layer is enough to eliminate the cold bridges represented by the supporting structure of the floor, as well as to distribute the load from the screed.

Installation nuances

Installation of a water-heated floor should take place according to a pre-planned scheme. The collector requires a place equipped for installation, it can be either a boiler room or a compartment hidden in the wall. The rationale for installing intermediate collectors depends on whether savings are achieved compared to laying pipes from a central distribution unit, and also whether such an increase in the length of the largest loop is acceptable. It is recommended to connect pipes to heating zones in rooms that do not require targeted floor heating: pantries, corridors and others like them.

Underfloor heating pipes should only be fixed to a special mounting system. Perforated tape or mesh provides precise adjustment of the installation step, reliable fixation during the curing of the mixture and the gaps necessary for the temperature solution.

The mounting system is fixed to the floor through the insulation without significant pressure. You need to fix it in the holes formed after bending the petals to compress the tubes. Thus, the attachment points are located closest to the heating elements, which prevents them from floating, shifting or lifting the entire system when pouring the concrete mixture.

Now many residents of private houses install a water-heated floor for basic or additional heating. It has a lot of advantages: it increases comfort, heats the room evenly, does not require additional energy costs (because it works from one boiler with radiators). The instructions in our article will allow you to install water-heated floors, even without experience. However, before that, it is worth studying all the nuances.

Best of all, the warm water floor system is combined with laying under and tile.

First, both materials are strong and durable.
Secondly, they do not distinguish harmful substances when heated.
And thirdly, heating perfectly complements the tile (the material itself is cold), and you can even walk on it barefoot due to its high heat capacity.

Of course, underfloor heating can also be done under linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet, with a special mark.

But, for example, it makes no sense to heat the carpet, and the surface temperature must not exceed 31 ° C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.

Installation in an apartment

Probably, many residents had the idea to independently connect “for free” water heated floors to the central heating or hot water system. And some even do so, but in most cases it is prohibited by local law.

For example, in Moscow there is a government decree No. 73-PP dated February 8, 2005, in Appendix No. 2 it is clearly written about the ban on the conversion of public water supply systems for underfloor heating.

Violating the rules, at best, you can get a fine the first time you visit the plumbers. And at worst, the risk of leaving neighbors without heating.

In some regions, the ban does not apply, but an examination is required to connect in order not to disrupt the system.

In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only if a separate pumping and mixing unit is connected and the outlet pressure in the system is maintained.

Note! If in apartment building If there is a jet pump (elevator), then metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes cannot be used.

Floor installation methods

There are several ways to arrange a warm water floor.

The most popular and reliable of them is a concrete screed. Unlike electrical types, 16 mm pipes cannot be hidden in tile adhesive, and it will not work. Therefore, a screed is poured at least 3 cm above the pipes.
The second way is laying pipes in the cut out grooves of polystyrene foam. The grooves are made by hand, pipes are laid inside, then the screed is poured.
The next option is often used in houses with wooden floors, although it requires a lot of labor - this is laying in wooden grooves. To do this, boards are stuffed on the floor, which create a gutter of the desired shape for laying.

Types of pipes used

Three types of pipes are suitable for a warm water floor.

Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-EVOH-PEX) are inconvenient to use, because it is difficult to give them the desired shape (they straighten when heated). But they are not afraid of liquid freezing and are maintainable.
Metal pipes - best option: low price, easy installation, stable shape.
Copper pipes are expensive; when used in a screed, they must be covered with a protective layer to prevent alkaline exposure.

Calculation of a warm water floor

Before installation and purchase of materials, it is imperative to calculate the underfloor heating. To do this, they draw a diagram with contours, which will then come in handy during repair work in order to know the position of the pipes.

If you are sure that furniture or plumbing will always stand in a certain place, pipes are not laid in this place.
The length of the circuit with a diameter of 16 mm must not exceed 100 m (maximum for 20 mm is 120 m), otherwise the pressure in the system will be bad. Thus, each circuit approximately occupies no more than 15 square meters. m.
The difference between the length of several circuits should be small (less than 15 m), that is, they should all be of uniform length. Large rooms, respectively, are divided into several circuits.
The optimum pipe spacing is 15 cm when using good thermal insulation. If in winter there are often frosts below -20, then the step is reduced to 10 cm (only possible at the outer walls). And in the north you can not do without additional radiators.
With a laying step of 15 cm, the consumption of pipes is approximately 6.7 m for each square of the room, when laying every 10 cm - 10 m.

The graph shows the dependence of the flux density on average temperature coolant. Dotted lines indicate pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, and solid lines - 16 mm.

The graph shows data that is valid only when using a cement-sand screed with a thickness of 7 cm, covered with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, by 1 cm, then the heat flux density decreases by 5-8%.

To find the flux density, the sum of the heat loss of the room in watts is divided by the pipe laying area (the distance from the walls is subtracted).
The average temperature is calculated as the average value at the inlet to the circuit and the outlet from the return.

The optimum temperature at the inlet and outlet should not differ by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum temperature of the heat carrier must not exceed 55°C.

According to the above diagram, you can only perform a rough calculation and make the final adjustment due to the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to contact professional heating engineers.

Heated floor cake

The technology of laying a warm water floor consists of several layers, which are laid in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the floors is up to 300 kg / sq. m.

If the base is a concrete slab:

waterproofing;
insulation;
reinforcing mesh;
water floor heating pipe;
coupler.

For waterproofing, it is permissible to use ordinary polyethylene film or special materials. The damper tape is made from cut strips of thermal insulation 1-2 cm thick, or they buy a ready-made version with a self-adhesive base.
The choice of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, for floors on the ground, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm (optimally 10) is also used, and if there is a warm basement under the floor of the first floor, then thinner options from 3 cm can be used.

The main purpose of the insulation is to direct the heat from the heating up and prevent large heat losses.

If the base is floors on the ground:

bulk soil 15 cm;
crushed stone 10 cm;
sand 5 cm;
rough screed;
waterproofing;
damper tape around the perimeter;
extruded polystyrene foam not less than 5 cm;
reinforced screed with heat carriers.

It is important to carefully compact the preparatory layers for the rough screed in layers. With a dense compaction of the base and the use of extruded polystyrene foam, it will not be necessary to make a rough screed.

Installation of a warm floor

Let's say a good foundation has already been prepared: a flat concrete slab or a backfill layer without strong drops. The differences should not exceed 7 mm when checking with a two-meter rail. If there are irregularities, they can be covered with sand.

Waterproofing

Someone lays waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, someone, on the contrary, upstairs, and some use it both here and there.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not so critical. But it will not allow cement milk to penetrate between the seams of the insulation and go into the slab and will additionally retain moisture from below.
If you fix it to the bottom of the insulation, then you can fix the pipes on the warm floor directly to the insulation. If the waterproofing is laid up, then laying the mounting grid will be required to fix the pipes.

We lay waterproofing with an overlap on the walls by 20 cm, and on top of each other. We glue the joints with adhesive tape for sealing.

damper tape

If you bought a finished tape, just glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be above the fill level, the excess is cut off with a knife. If the tape is made by hand, then be sure to glue or screw it with self-tapping screws to the wall.

The linear expansion of concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40°C.

insulation

Sheet insulation for a warm water floor is laid with offset joints so that it is tightly connected.

Reinforcement

The first layer of reinforcing mesh is usually laid on the insulation and used as a base for fixing the contours and evenly distributing heat over the surface. The grids are tied together with wire. Pipes are attached to the grid on nylon clamps.

The diameter of the mesh bars is 4-5 mm, and the cell size is depending on the pipe laying step, for easy fastening.

In addition, it is imperative to lay reinforcement on top of the pipes, because even when using mesh from below, it will have almost no effect if it lies at the very bottom. Or, during pouring, put the grid on stands, creating a gap.

Pipe Fixation Methods

Water heated floor can be laid in several ways, we list them.

Clamp made of polyamide. Used for quick fastening of pipes to the mounting grid. Consumption - about 2 pieces per 1 m.
Mounting wire made of steel. Also used for mounting to the grid, the flow rate is exactly the same.
Stapler and clamps. Suitable for quick fixing of pipes to thermal insulation. The consumption of clamps is 2 pieces per 1 m.
Fixing track. It is a U-shaped PVC strip, which serves as a base for laying 16 or 20 mm pipes into it. Attaches firmly to the floor.
Mats for a warm water floor made of polystyrene. A pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves between the posts.
Distribution aluminum plate. Used when installing in wooden floors, reflects and evenly distributes heat over the surface.

The use of various types of pipe fasteners

Pipe laying

The pipes are laid with an indent from the walls of 15-20 cm. It is highly desirable to make each circuit from a single pipe without welding, and their length should not exceed 100 m. The step between the pipes at the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.

The scheme of laying a warm floor is different, for example, a spiral or a snake. At the outer walls, they try to make the laying step more often or draw a contour from the feed next to the cold walls. An example of a scheme for enhanced heating of external walls is shown in the photo, this option is best used in cold regions:

In other cases, the contours are usually laid in a spiral (snail), this is a universal option.

In places with a large accumulation of pipes, in order to avoid overheating of the surface, some of them are covered with a heat-insulating tube.

Metal-plastic 16 mm and 20 mm can be easily bent by hand, without the use of special tools. In order to evenly bend the pipes with an angle of small radius and at the same time prevent it from cracking, the corners are bent in several passes (arm interceptions).
Approximately 5-6 interceptions will be needed at an angle of 90 °. This means, at first, resting with your thumbs, make a slight bend, then slightly shift your hands in the direction of the bend and repeat the actions.

The presence of kinks on the pipes in places of sharp turns is unacceptable.

Polypropylene pipes are much more difficult to bend because they are springy. Therefore, they are heated or made to bend, but in the case of a warm floor, they are simply attached to the grid, making the bends less sharp.

We begin the installation of a water-heated floor by connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution manifold, and after laying the room, the return line (the second end) is immediately connected.

Connecting circuits

In most cases, the circuits are connected through a distribution node. It has several functions: increasing the pressure in the system, adjusting the temperature, uniform supply to several circuits, combining with radiators.

There are many connection schemes to the boiler, which we wrote about in the article about: with manual adjustment, with weather automatics and auto-adjustment using servos and sensors.

euroconus fitting

Pipes are connected to the manifold using Eurocone clamp fittings.

Crimping

When you have completed the installation of all circuits, be sure to conduct a pneumatic test of the system for tightness. To do this, pressure is applied using a compressor. For testing, a small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable. The pressure in the system is brought to 4 bar and left for the entire time until the system is started.

Since air molecules are much smaller than water molecules, even a small depressurization can be detected. In addition, the water can freeze if you do not have time to turn on the heating, and nothing will happen to the air.

Underfloor heating screed

Filling the screed is done only after the installation of all circuits and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use concrete not lower than M-300 (B-22.5) with crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. A minimum thickness of 3 cm above the pipe is made not only to obtain the desired strength, but also to evenly distribute heat over the surface. Weight 1 sq. m. screed with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.

With a screed thickness of more than 15 cm or with high loads, an additional calculation of the thermal regime is required.

With an increase in the thickness of the screed, it takes more time to heat it up to a certain temperature after switching on, and the inertia of the system also increases. The lower the thermal conductivity of the screed, the higher the temperature of the coolant will need to be made.

expansion joints

Examples of dividing a large room into zones

The absence or incorrect position of the expansion gaps is the most common cause screed destruction.

Shrink joints are made in the following cases:

The premises are over 30 sq. m.;
walls have a length of more than 8 m;
the length and width of the room differ by more than 2 times;
over expansion joints of structures;
the room is too curved.

To do this, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the seams. At the seam, the reinforcing mesh must be divided. The expansion gap must be 10 mm thick at the base. The upper part is treated with a sealant. If the room has custom shape, it needs to be broken down into simpler rectangular or square elements.

If pipes pass through expansion joints in a screed, in these places they are laid in a corrugated pipe, 30 cm of corrugations in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one circuit with expansion joints; supply and return pipes must pass through it.

Correct passage of contours through technological seams

When laying tiles on expansion joints, the likelihood of its peeling off increases due to different expansion of adjacent tiles. To avoid this, the first part is laid on tile adhesive, and the second part is attached to an elastic sealant.

Partial profile expansion joints can be used for additional separation. They are made with a trowel, 1/3 of the thickness. After the concrete has hardened, they are also sealed with sealant. If pipes pass through them, they are also protected by corrugation.

Cracks in the screed

A fairly common occurrence is the appearance of cracks on the screed after drying. This can be caused by a number of reasons:

low density insulation;
poor compaction of the solution;
lack of plasticizers;
too thick screed;
lack of shrinkage seams;
too fast drying of concrete;
incorrect proportions of the solution.

It's very easy to avoid them:

insulation must be used with a density above 35-40 kg / m3;
the screed solution must be plastic when laying and with the addition of fiber and plasticizer;
in large rooms, shrink joints should be made (see below);
also, concrete should not be allowed to set quickly, for this it is covered with plastic wrap the next day (for a week).

Screed mortar

For a warm floor, it is imperative to use a plasticizer to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But you need to use special types of non-air-entraining plasticizers for underfloor heating.

Without experience, it will not work to make a cement-sand screed for a warm floor without crushed stone / gravel, and the correct branded DSP will cost more than factory concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the mortar, concrete with crushed stone is poured.

A solution of M-300 from cement grade M-400, washed sand and gravel is made in the following proportions.

Mass composition C: P: W (kg) = 1: 1.9: 3.7.
Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P: W (l) = 17:32.
From 10 liters of cement, 41 liters of mortar will be obtained.
The volumetric weight of such concrete M300 will be 2300-2500 kg / m3 (heavy concrete)

There is also another option using granite screenings instead of sand, the following elements were used for its preparation:

2 buckets of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm;
water 7-8 liters;
superplasticizer SP1 400 ml of solution (1.8 liters of powder is diluted in 5 liters of hot water);
1 bucket of cement;
3-4 buckets of granite screenings with a fraction of 0-5 mm;
bucket volume - 12 liters.

High-quality concrete should not release water during laying (delaminate). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20 ° C, it should begin to set after 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave marks from the heels.

After 3 days after pouring, the screed will gain half its strength, and will completely harden only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the heating system until this moment.

Mounting on a wooden floor

Wood does not conduct heat as efficiently as concrete, but mounting on it is also feasible. For this, aluminum distribution plates are used. The pipes are laid in wooden grooves made by attaching pre-prepared boards.

For the installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials that require a flat surface, a leveling layer of chipboard, plywood or GVL is laid over the pipes. If parquet or laminate is used as a topcoat, the design of a warm floor can be slightly simplified without the use of a leveling layer.

When choosing plywood and chipboard, make sure that they have hygienic and thermomechanical parameters that allow them to be used with underfloor heating.

Prices for underfloor heating

The price of a warm water floor is formed from several components:

cost of materials (pipes, insulation, fasteners, etc.);
the cost of the pumping and mixing unit and the manifold;
work on leveling the base and pouring the top layer of the screed;
the cost of installing underfloor heating.

On average, the price of a water-heated floor during turnkey installation, together with all materials and work, will cost about 1,500-3,000 rubles per 1 sq. m.

Below is an approximate estimate for a house of 100 sq. m., but the prices for water-heated floors are highly dependent on the region, so it is best to drive in your data there and make an independent calculation. This does not include the costs of installation and purchase of radiators, boilers, top coat and screed.

Estimate for the installation of a water-heated floor system on the 1st floor.
№	Material name	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm	m2	96	227	21792
2	Mounting grid 1501504	m2	106	30	3180
3	Polyethylene film 250 microns	m2	105	40	4200
4	Metal-plastic pipe 16 mm	m.p.	700	39	27300
5	Damper tape from a substrate	m2	30	50	1500
6	Manifold Valtec 1″, 7 x 3/4″, Eurocone	PC.	2	1600	3200
7	Manifold connection fitting (Euroconus) 16x2 mm	PC.	14	115	1610
8	Pumping and mixing unit	PC.	1	14500	14500
9	Dowels and screws	PC.	300	1,5	450
10	mounting tape	m.p.	50	11	550
11	Other accessories for a warm water floor	poses	1	0	0
	Total by materials				78282
	Name of works	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Rough coupler	m2	96	60	5760
2	Mounting the damper tape	m.p.	160	60	9600
3	Laying waterproofing	m2	100	60	6000
4	Installation grid laying	m2	110	150	16500
5	Pipe installation	m2	96	300	28800
6	System pressure test	m2	96	20	1920
	Total for jobs				68580

1	Total by materials				78282
2	Total for jobs				68580
3	Total				146862
	Transportation overhead			10%	14686
	In total, according to the estimate, the installation of a water-heated floor system is 1 floor.				161548

Installation of warm water floors is shown in the video: