Scheme of laying sewer pipes in a private house. How to run a sewer - we understand from personal experience

If desired, even a private house in the countryside can be equipped. The first thing that a resident of a country faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. This is not a luxury, it is a necessity. Sewerage laying in a private house is a complex process that requires taking into account every little thing. How can this be done?

External and internal

The work related to the arrangement of the sewage system in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a drain pipe, a riser is required, as well as the distribution of pipes to all rooms where this is required: a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom, and so on. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires piping to the septic tank. You can also connect the sewer to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly facilitated if it is possible to discharge waste water into a centralized system. If the house is located in an isolated area, then a system with a homemade septic tank should be created. It can be with or cumulative. A cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Layout in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, you should take into account all the features of the house and the location of the premises. The finished version can look anything you like.

When designing a sewage system inside a house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only then can you determine where the rest of the system will be laid.

How to make a correct diagram

The sewerage scheme in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how correctly the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the plan of the house. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
Then it is worth deciding on the location of the riser or collector pipe.
At all levels of the building, it is necessary to note the location of the plumbing. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
From plumbing, it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, branches and corners should be taken into account.
It is necessary to measure the length of each element of the internal system and summarize the data. The result will be the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is drawing up a diagram of the external system: the release of pipes, their laying to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What you need to consider when arranging the internal system

The laying of an internal sewage system in a private house begins after drawing up an approximate diagram. There are several nuances to consider at this stage:

To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45 °. This reduces the risk of blockages during the use of the sewer.
It is best to use polypropylene for arranging the sewage system inside the house, or this material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying a sewage system in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Sewerage installation in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up a diagram and carrying out the necessary calculations, the purchase of materials is required. Gray pipes are used for wiring inside the house. For the arrangement of the external system, orange pipes are required. The difference in color can be explained by logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, it concerns the material. Pipes underground must be able to withstand more severe loads. The material for their manufacture must be more rigid.

In order for the laying of a sewage system in a private house with your own hands to be successful, you can use two-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of the sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. It is much cheaper and no less effective to use orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used to equip an external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater disposal.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of the pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, an assistant is required to work. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve the quality.

The simplest option for laying sewage is the use of PVC or PP pipes. A fairly wide range of similar products is produced. If necessary, you can purchase material of the required diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It should be noted that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - a cuff. Thanks to this element, laying the sewerage system of a private house takes a little time. Joints are connected easily and reliably. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. A silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable for this.

Things to Consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:

If the pipes run through walls or ceilings, then they must be placed in special sleeves, which can reduce the load on the fragments of the system.
The slope of the elements of the sewer system depends on their diameter and is spelled out in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material whose diameter is 5 centimeters, this indicator should be 3 cm / m, and with a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm / m.

Sewerage outlet arrangement

If a problem has arisen and the internal system has a discrepancy with the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the release. This is the border area between the systems. At this point, the riser is connected to the pipe leading to the wastewater collection tank.

It is necessary to mount the outlet through the wall of the foundation. The depth of its laying should be lower than the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, in winter, difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewage system. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. On each edge, the sleeve must cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for a sewer outlet.

Installation of a riser and further wiring

The pipe size from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to mount the riser in the toilet itself. The installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. For this it is worth using pendants and clamps. You can also mount the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and the rest of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They eliminate the need for a sealant. In places where there is an intersection of elements coming from a shower, sink or bathtub, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be between 10 and 11 centimeters. Do not forget about water locks. These elements prevent unpleasant odors from entering the living space.

On each floor, a revision is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clean the system with a strong blockage.

What is a fan pipe

Observing the rules for laying sewers in a private house, you can easily create an external and internal system. In addition to installing a riser, a fan pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. The revision is mounted at the junction. After that, the funnel is led out into the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the ventilation system of the building or to the chimney.

Varieties of septic tanks

Laying an external sewage system in a private house is no less important stage than installing an internal system. With the wrong arrangement, problems can arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn the sewer system into a big smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with a septic tank device. Sludge type structures are most often used. This is a container or a combination of them through which the drains pass. They are gradually cleared. This is due to the deposition of heavy inclusions. After that, the drains undergo additional purification in a filtration well or on the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - accumulative. In this case, a closed container of a sufficiently large volume is installed. All drains are collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, pumping out the sewage system is required, which is carried out.This method of arranging an external system is easier to carry out. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not that difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. At the same time, the average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in the house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the tank for the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of the outdoor system

Sewerage in a private house does not end after the complete installation of the internal system. After all, the arrangement of the outer part is required. Stages of arrangement of the external system:

First, you need to prepare materials: a ready-made container of the required volume from PP or a ring of reinforced concrete. If desired, you can lay it out of bricks or fill in a monolith.
The next step is to determine the appropriate wastewater treatment method.
After that, earthworks are carried out: a pit is dug under a container and trenches for laying pipes.
All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about the comfortable maintenance of the septic tank.
Pipes should be installed at a specific slope. This indicator should be 2 cm / m. The joints must be sealed.
The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
Having carried out work on heat and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, you can fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of buildings on a personal plot. You should not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how the sewerage system of a private house is carried out. If you follow all the rules, you will get a reliable system. Before starting the operation of the sewage system, it is worthwhile to run it. For this, the system must be flushed with clean water. This will allow you to identify all the shortcomings and correct them. Only then can the operation of the sewer system begin.

In fact, the process of editing individual fragments is not difficult. The main thing is not to make mistakes when drawing up the sewage scheme, as well as to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

Living in a private house, each owner dreams of creating maximum amenities in it, ensuring a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry in advance about such an important issue as installing a sewage system in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to do all the work correctly, correctly and not harm the environment.

If you build a sewer system yourself, you can save a lot. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you have entered from our site "Remontik".

The choice of the sewerage system scheme should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your house.

When planning, we recommend to provide for the most compact arrangement of rooms for which water drainage and supply will be carried out (bathrooms, shower rooms, toilets, laundries and kitchens). But the best option is such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one collector, through which wastewater will be drained into a septic tank or cesspool.

In the presence of a large country house, in which there are several different rooms with a drain / supply of water located in different parts of the building, experts advise giving preference to such a sewage system, in which there will be at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms, baths and kitchens are on different floors, then you have to install the risers.

Sewerage installation in a private house. Sewerage types

All work on the construction of a sewerage system in a country house or in the country is reduced to the device of external and internal sewerage.

The work on the internal sewage system should include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and piping to such premises as a kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. The external or external sewage system includes everything outside the house, that is, the system of pipes that go from the house to the deep cleaning station (quite an expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or filtration field).

Of course, if you can connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. However, below we will consider an autonomous system that includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

First of all, you need to deal with the internal circuitry. Even during the design of the house, you need to make sure that all the rooms where the sewerage will be carried out are as close to each other as possible, since this approach allows you to simplify the scheme of the internal sewerage device. Each private house involves the installation of an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very different.

Therefore, you should take into account the fact that in the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used for draining wastewater. For gray drains entering the sewer from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows that are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, since in the future this will minimize the possibility of blockage (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to eliminate it).

It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewage system. In addition, it is much easier to arrange an internal sewage system using such pipes.

First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.

But first of all, it is worthwhile to figure out as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewage system for your home, since in the future you can use it for a complete calculation of materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed to install a sewer system in a private house.

You can make a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is better to buy several graph paper sheets for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure, and a sharp pencil.

The sewerage scheme for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house to scale. If you do not know the dimensions, then you will have to use a tape measure and measure everything carefully.

Next, you need to decide on the location of the risers.

Then on the plan you need to mark the location of the plumbing and decide how they will be connected.

Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to plumbing fixtures, and all the connecting elements (bends, tees, etc.).

All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.

Now decide on the dimensions of the riser and the drain pipe.

Add down the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewage system.

Another stage is external sewerage. It is necessary to draw up its diagram: the location of the pipes coming from the septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet. In this case, do not forget all the existing SNiPs.

Sewerage installation in a private house: the choice of pipes

For the reason that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, are significantly different, then the pipes for such sewage systems should be different. Today, PVC or PP pipes, characterized by a characteristic gray color, are usually used for laying internal sewerage systems. For risers and sun loungers, their diameter should be 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewerage, and for external it is worth using other solutions.

Usually, pipes that are installed underground from a septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet are orange in color, which can be explained very simply - a bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground. But the pipes used for external sewage differ from others not only in the color itself, but also in the requirements that apply to them. They have high rigidity, since they bear a significant load.

More reliable designs are also proposed, a striking example of which are two-layer corrugated pipes. But their laying depth, when maintaining the sewerage system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite enough for wastewater disposal.

Below we will consider all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made from different materials, among which the most used are:

Cast iron.

Advantages: durable and strong pipes, able to withstand high loads.

Disadvantages: heavy and brittle, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness can form, which can cause blockages.

Polypropylene.

Advantages: flexible and lightweight, which makes them in high demand for indoor sewerage. They calmly cope with the high temperature of the runoff.

Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.

Polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages: similar to cast iron, lightweight and inexpensive. Most often used for outdoor sewerage.

Disadvantages: they do not tolerate the high temperature of wastewater, they are fragile (they crack, do not bend).

Sewerage installation in a private house: pipe laying

Perhaps the most difficult process in the construction of an autonomous sewage system in a country house is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you are going to perform these works on your own, then call someone for help, since this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling it with water, and only then, when you are sure of the reliability of all seams, proceed to full-fledged operation.

Pipe connection

As mentioned earlier, the easiest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewage. Today, a huge number of products are offered on the construction market, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes that are easily and securely connected at the joints, which is ensured by the presence of rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with plumbing sealant. Well, where the pipe goes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.

Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of the pipe in a free-flow system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per 1 meter. Please keep this in mind, as different points in the pipeline will have to be laid at different heights to achieve the required slope.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy with the external and internal sewage systems, you need to start the installation of the sewage system in a private house from the release (the border part of the sewer connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe coming out of the house).

The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the soil freezing depth corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the release even higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will be able to use the toilet only in the spring, after warming.

If you did not take care of this during the construction of the foundation, then you will have to punch such a hole in its structure into which the branch pipe with a sleeve can easily fit. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a larger diameter than that of the sewer pipe (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary in order for you to be able to set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm by 1 m).

Layout and installation of a riser

It is good if the riser is in the toilet, since the recommended pipe size from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how exactly the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, pendants, etc.).

To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, it is necessary to use adapters. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, shower and bathtub, you need to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water traps that protect the sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

On each riser, it is imperative to mount a special tee, with which you can clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, install a sewer after each turn of the pipe.

Fan pipe outlet

It should be said right away that the conclusion and installation of the fan pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:

maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air discharge and water hammer do not occur;
increasing the durability of the sewage system;
ventilation of the entire system, which is required for the efficient operation of the septic tank.

The fan pipe is an extension of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and the drain pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can lead the pipe to the attic at any convenient angle.

We do not advise to simplify the work by combining the fan pipe with ventilation or chimney. In addition, you need to locate its exit as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have the ventilation of the sewage system, ventilation of the house and the chimney at different levels.

Summing up everything that has been said above, the following can be noted:

at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from the plumbing to the riser;

it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser, along the course of connecting other additional devices (exclude a decrease in diameter);

adhere to one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser, respectively (the toilet should be closest to the riser);

where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revisions;

in the distribution system for ventilation, there must be a fan pipe.

Installation of outdoor sewerage in a private house

You can equip an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands in various ways, which we will talk about below. It is important to correctly choose a system that would fully meet the needs.

It is necessary to decide on the sewerage arrangement scheme taking into account the following factors:

permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
the number of people who live in the house for daily rent;
daily water consumption by one person (depending on the availability of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
groundwater level;
soil structure and type;
the size of your site around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
climatic conditions.

All sewerage systems for a private house can be divided into 2 types:

storage systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container);

structures used for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural purification and two overflow wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil purification).

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of installing a sewage system in a private house. Even 50 years ago, this method simply had no alternatives. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.

A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. In it, you can make walls from concrete rings, concrete, brick and other material, leaving the soil as the bottom. After sewage enters the pit from the house, relatively clean water, being purified, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was filled, they simply buried it and dug a new hole in another place.

It should be borne in mind that it is possible to install a sewage system in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of wastewater per day does not exceed 1 m 3. This is the only way soil microorganisms feeding on organic matter can manage to process water that will penetrate into the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if this rate is exceeded by the volume of wastewater, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will provoke groundwater pollution. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.

If you add microorganisms to the sump, it will reduce the unpleasant odor coming from it, and the cleaning process will be significantly accelerated. But be that as it may, you should not risk it.

Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but happens only several times a week, without consuming a lot of water. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that groundwater must lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. The cesspool has a low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.

Sealed container, presented in the form of a storage tank

In this case, next to the house, you need to install a special sealed container, where sewage will drain from the house through pipes. You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewage system is complete tightness. For this type of sewerage, you can use corrugated pipes pragma.

This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely full, you will have to call a sewer truck, which will not cost very much. The frequency of emptying the container directly depends on the volume of waste water and the size of the container. For example, if 4 people live in the house who use a toilet, washing machine, bath and shower, then the volume of the storage tank should be at least 8 m 3, and it should be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Therefore, if there is a high occurrence of groundwater on your site, then it makes sense to use a sealed cesspool to equip the sewerage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible contamination.

But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.

It is also important that the lid of the storage tank is properly insulated and the pipeline has good frost protection. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. The cheapest option is to use second-hand Eurocubes, and the most expensive is to use concrete fill or bricks. Don't forget about the monthly cleaning costs.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil cleaning

It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with an insignificant layer of rubble (not less than 30 cm), and coarse sand is covered with the same layer on top of it. Otherwise, sewage from the house flows through pipes into a well, where water seeps through gravel, sand and soil, clearing up to 50%. Naturally, sand and gravel greatly increases the quality of water purification, but does not fundamentally solve this problem.

In a private house, it is not recommended to build sewerage systems using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in the case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and a low level of groundwater. In addition, sand and crushed stone should be changed periodically, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

The construction of overflow settling wells and filtering wells is a fairly popular way of installing a sewage system in a private house. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.

Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not have one, but is sprinkled with sand and gravel.

Waste water from the house is fed into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom, and greasy ones float to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second with the help of an overflow pipe at about 2/3 of its height, which is under an insignificant slope, allowing water to flow quietly there.

Clarified water enters the second well, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, cleaning even better.

The first well is used as a sedimentation tank, and the second is used as a filtering well. The first well is filled with feces from time to time and you will need to call a special sewer truck to clean it. This should be done approximately every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms to the first well that decompose feces.

The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be performed using special microorganisms.

It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house on the basis of two overflow wells only when, even during floods, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If on the territory of your site there is sandy or sandy loam soil, then this will be an excellent option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years, the crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.

Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with a filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one container, which includes several separate containers that are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.

The first tank of a septic tank is used for settling wastewater, as it happens in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second container or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then more clarified water goes to filtration fields.

A rather wide area under the ground (about 30 m 2) acts as a filtration field. Primary wastewater treatment is carried out there. In this case, the water is purified by about 80%.

If there is sandy or sandy soil on your land plot, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from rubble and sand. Once the water has passed the filtration field, it can be collected in pipelines and directed to drainage ditches or guide wells. It is forbidden to plant edible trees and vegetables above the filtration field, because in this case you will break a flower bed.

Attention! You can buy drainage wells at a discount in this section of the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/drenazhnye-kolodtsy/, if you indicate that you came according to our recommendation - the "Remontik" website.

Over time, the filtration can become silted and it will have to be cleaned, or rather to replace crushed stone and sand. This is a huge amount of work, which can damage your site.

Installation of a sewage system with a filtration field is suitable only when the groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m.At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural cleaning station

Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a full-fledged installation of the sewage system in a private house. And this is despite the high level of groundwater.

This station acts as a capacity, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, after checking with the professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $ 1200, which is not cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed using anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, the separation of water takes place, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require a constant flow of air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. A special filter is installed in the pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, into which aerobic bacteria are actually added. It turns out a kind of filtration field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.

Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). Such cleaning allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing the car and many other purposes.

From the fourth chamber there is a pipe leading either to the storage tank or to the drainage ditch.

For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is easy - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not need electricity. The disadvantage is that it needs regular maintenance, since bacteria deprived of wastewater will simply die. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.

Artificial cleaning stations - septic tank with forced air supply

This is an accelerated cleaning station where natural processes occur artificially. The device of a sewerage system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for the air pump and connecting the air distributor.

Such a septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are interconnected. Through the sewer pipe, water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, is mixed with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their life.

Then the water is mixed with sludge, goes into the third chamber, which is a deep purification sump. Then, using a special pump, the sludge is pumped back into the aeration tank.

Forced air supply provides fast wastewater treatment, and the water after cleaning can be used for various technical needs (washing a car, watering a vegetable garden, etc.).

Of course, the aeration tank will cost you quite a lot (from $ 3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. When installing sewers of this type, there are no restrictions. Among the number of disadvantages, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that bacteria do not die.

If there is a high level of groundwater on your site, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

septic tank with biofilter;

A few general rules for sewage in a private house

There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.

Residential building location:

50 m from aeration treatment plants;
300 m from the drain wells and the station;
25 m from the filtering field;
8 m from the filtering well.

Septic tank location:

not less than 20-50 m from any water sources (well, well, reservoir);
not less than 10 m from the garden.

Before proceeding with the installation of the sewage system in a private house, you must make its project. You should not work without it, since the sewage system acts as such a system in which approximation is unacceptable. It is better to contact a design office or architects who will help create a high-quality project, taking into account the climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It is good if you do a sewerage project together with a house project before construction.

All work on the installation of the sewer system is not difficult. You only need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the manifold and bring them to the septic tank. For earthwork, you need to hire an excavator, although you can do it yourself. The main thing is the development of the project and the correct choice of the sewerage system.

It is difficult to call a private house comfortable if it is not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Such an important component of the home communications network requires environmental friendliness and efficiency; the drainage system of a private house should be simple to arrange and convenient to use.

Schematic diagram of the sewage system in a private house

One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; how to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation will help you figure out the rules that have been tested empirically.

Varieties of sewage systems in a private house

All houses located in the private sector are conventionally divided into two categories:

Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases - the best option, with a long period of use and no problems with maintenance, unplanned waste and water quality control.

Houses in which connection to a centralized system is not possible. The fact that the city network is not available is not a reason to give up comfort. In such conditions, the sewerage device in a private house is reduced to an autonomous option, where water treatment and waste disposal takes place in a locally installed treatment plant.

You can also combine sewer and drainage systems

The autonomous sewerage system includes:

Internal sewerage responsible for the collection of wastewater and their output to the outside. It includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.

Outdoor sewerage... Its elements are external piping and a water purification device (septic tank or autonomous sewage system).

The most suitable (in terms of performance) type of individual cleaning equipment is chosen, taking into account several factors:

seasonality of living in the house;

intensity of water use;

the size of the site, the type and structure of the soil;

groundwater level;

climatic conditions of the region.

The first stage in the installation of the sewerage system is the development of a preliminary design scheme.

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme in the house

The sewerage scheme in a private house is tied to the plan of the house. It should contain the key elements of the system - a riser (if the building has more than one floor), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drain points.

When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will in the future cause problems during operation and repair.

Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and floors are installed, but the finishing work on the premises has not yet been carried out. The external sewage system is installed after the internal system is fully equipped. Below is a sewerage scheme for a private two-story house:

General scheme of internal sewerage in a two-story house

The procedure for drawing up the scheme:

All drawings are built to scale, the place of installation of the riser, the line for laying pipes, the number of drain points (connecting plumbing and household appliances) is applied to the plan.

The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline is calculated (taking into account the outlet), the point of exit from the structure of the main riser.

In places of possible clogging, cleaning and revisions are provided.

A separate drawing is created for each floor.

The size and place of installation of the sewer pipe is calculated (in large sewer systems, it prevents the occurrence of a vacuum in the sewer pipe)

The external communications scheme is based on the same principle.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of design and installation of sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

About the sewage system with a fan pipe in the video:

Selection of pipes for internal sewerage

The following categories of pipes are allowed by building codes:

Cast iron... Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and the appearance of blockages. The pipes are ideal for burial.

Plastic... They are lighter and cheaper than their cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for in-house wiring are gray; for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:

Pipes from Pvc(polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften from high temperatures and are mainly used in outdoor work.

Pipes from PP(polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and durable. They are appreciated for their heat resistance (they soften only at 140 C °), therefore they are ideal for indoor use.

Plastic pipes for internal and external circuit

Less common ceramic and asbestos-cement analogs.

In practice, the installation of a sewage system in a private house in most cases is carried out using products made of polymer materials (plastic). The choice is due to the absence of corrosion (plastic is resistant to the aggressive environment of drains), and easy installation of structures.

How is sewer wiring done

The most time consuming part of the work is considered to be the sewerage system for a private house; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.

Inside the house

Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are mounted in parallel with the construction of the building. Holes for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.

Sewerage installation technology provides for several types of pipes:

Sewer riser, diameter 100 mm.

Trunk (between the riser and the branch); diameter 70 mm.

Branch pipes (connected to a washbasin, bath, washing machine) - 50 mm.

Completed installation of the branch pipe

The spillway system inside the house is gravity (gravity). To avoid blockages, pipes are mounted with a slope, the value of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per running meter, with a diameter of 100 mm - 20 mm.

Completed ceiling wiring

Horizontal wiring is performed using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45 °; this arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, revisions (cleaning) are provided. Right angles are only allowed in vertically positioned structures.

Fan pipe

When a large amount of wastewater flows into the sewer system, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, an area of low atmospheric pressure (rarefaction) is created behind them, into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.

When the pressure is equalized, then without a water plug through the siphons, the smell from the sewer enters the room back into the room. To prevent the occurrence of a vacuum, a fan pipe with an air valve is installed - they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.

Features of the funnel pipe:

Designed and displayed 50-70 cm above the roof.

It is forbidden to combine it with a chimney or ventilation.

It is not placed near windows or balconies.

Outlet of the exhaust (fan) pipe through the roof

Outer part

Installation of the outer part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.

The outlet (a connecting link between the external and internal sewers at the border of the room) is laid at the base of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not foreseen during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the thermowell, 200-250 mm wider than the pipe diameter. Its edge should protrude 15 cm from each side of the foundation. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.

Laying of external communications

It is reasonable to locate wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) side by side and at the same time as close as possible to the central riser. This will help to shorten the length of the sewer lines to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.

A large project (pool, bathhouse, sauna), additional plumbing means a large amount of waste water. You will need a carefully designed water supply and drainage scheme, additional risers and septic tanks, pump connection.

Sewerage pipes in a private house can be placed under the floor, in the walls, or laid on top. A water seal is installed near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, thanks to which extraneous odors cannot enter the premises.

It is inadmissible to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance of strong noises. When the slope decreases, the water flow slows down, which is fraught with blockage.

Slope control when laying sewers

The complex relief of the site creates additional problems for laying the pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is built to determine the position of the sewer elements in space. If difficult places cannot be bypassed, the installation of a pump will be the way out.

Clearly about some of the nuances of the sewage system in the video:

Conclusion

A well-designed and organized sewerage system will help create the necessary minimum of comfort for the inhabitants of the house. The attraction of specialized specialists contributes to the achievement of this worthy goal. It doesn't matter whether it is a wooden house or a brick one - the principles of the system are the same everywhere.

A separate section of the design of utilities is the planning of the sewerage system. Owners of cottages and country houses often have to independently deal with drawing up a diagram and installing equipment, so it is simply necessary to know the nuances of organizing work.

The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage system is correctly installed in a private house - the internal pipe system and the equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to consider everything: from the choice of components to the material for the manufacture of individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Unlike the systems of electricity, gas, water supply, which are installed according to the documentation certified by certain authorities, the sewage system on your own land plot and in the house is allowed to equip without permits.

However, one cannot do without a project, as it will insure against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.

For example, one of the most frequent violations is non-compliance with the boundaries of the sanitary zone when installing a drain pit. The supply and drain systems must not be in contact with each other.

An option for arranging communications in a private one-story house - external water supply and sewerage system are located on opposite sides of the building

The internal routing device is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, the wrong choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.

The construction of the axonometric diagram is usually carried out by specialists. They also make hydraulic calculations of the internal network and the mains located on the outside of the building. Now there is a more interesting option - creating a sewer model in 3D format.

3D modeling programs allow you to draw up an accurate and complete project that makes it as easy as possible to select pipes, fittings, fasteners, as well as installation methods.

They turn to specialists for a project when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - to study sanitary and technical standards, familiarize yourself with internal wiring diagrams, learn to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project yourself.

Placement of important system nodes

The peculiarity of an autonomous sewage system is that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in the overall system.

For example, the criterion for choosing a wastewater storage tank is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources of drainage of technical and utility water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.

Work planning and scheme selection

The installation of sewer pipes is usually carried out together with the installation of a water supply system, respectively, and it is better to design these two systems together.

If you summarize all the documents that make up the project, and try to act according to the rules, you get the following list:

General data - description and conditions of installation of water supply and sewerage systems based on regulatory documents.
Explication of the premises (explanation to the diagram) indicating the wet zones and the method of their waterproofing.
Calculation of the volumes of water consumption and wastewater disposal taking into account the norms.
Floor plan for the location of the water supply system and axonometric diagram.
Floor plan for the location of the sewerage system.
Specification - a listing of all constituent elements with an indication of the quantity or footage.

You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but provided that the private house is not higher than 2 floors, and the load on the sewer network is minimal.

If a lot of people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, the drains are discharged into the treatment plant, then the installation of a fan pipe is required. Thanks to her, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water locks will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.

Features of the wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers does not increase due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors, but the connection diagram becomes more complicated, since taps are present on all floors. For multi-storey houses, there is a "code" set out in the SNiP documents.

The question of arranging a full-fledged bathroom in a private house arises before each owner. Technologies make it possible to equip a domestic sewage system without special investments, both material and temporary. And fewer and fewer residential private buildings remain with amenities in the yard. In this article, we will consider such popular questions: what types and types of sewerage exist, the sewerage device in the house with our own hands, what is a septic tank and how to make it, how to make a septic tank from concrete rings, what is a cesspool and how to make it, as well as related questions.

Sewerage types for private households are divided into two parts.

For cottage settlements or urban areas where the private sector is close to apartment buildings, the sewage system for a private house is supplied to the centralized drain collectors. This solution is convenient, since all the difficulties consist only in the high-quality laying of sewer pipes to the place of the tie-in. However, there is also a negative side of connecting a private house to the city sewerage network - payment for sewerage services. For apartment buildings, a tariff is set and the total volume of wastewater disposal corresponds to the total amount of consumed water. Accounting is carried out according to the number of registered, according to the norms or according to water metering devices.

For a private house, where the lion's share of the water used is not discharged into the sewer, charging payment according to the readings of a water meter can significantly complicate life. To many, this issue will seem unimportant, but some of the owners strive for autonomy, therefore it remains relevant.

The traditional method of drainage in private houses is a cesspool, it is also a septic tank, it is also a sewer pit.

Before proceeding with a detailed guide to its creation and arrangement, it is necessary to carry out all the plumbing work in the house.

Diy sewerage device in the house

Most of the buildings in the private sector have one floor. Where there are two of them, the bathroom is located on the first floor. Modern private development projects provide for the placement of plumbing fixtures on each floor, but all objects are adjacent to a common riser. As an example, consider a standard one-story building, where it is necessary to carry out the sewage system with your own hands.

So, you need to place a sink in the kitchen, a washbasin and a bath / shower in the bathroom, and a toilet in the toilet.

Bathroom and toilet can be combined or separate. In any case, the drain will be common for them, therefore, the distribution of drain points in the room must be done in such a way that the distance to the "riser" (the main pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which will bring the waste out to the street) is minimal.

The kitchen where the sink is located, according to design documents, often has an adjacent wall with a bath or toilet. In this case, no difficulties arise. If the kitchen is remote from the main riser, it is necessary to lay a separate drain before connecting it to the riser. Depending on the situation, this can be done both in the perimeter of the house (the drain connection enters the riser, which includes the drains from the washbasin and bath / shower), and beyond the perimeter (if the location of the kitchen and the bathroom does not allow the pipes to be reduced in the perimeter, they are displayed outside outside the house, where they can connect or enter the drain pit separately).

The above difficulties are caused by the fact that for a high-quality water flow, it is necessary to observe the slope of the sewage system, which is not always possible to do in situations where the distance from point to point is large. The slope of the sewer should be a certain percentage, depending on the diameter of the pipe. See the slope values of the sewer depending on the pipe diameter in the figure below.

Sewerage pipes are laid under the floor. Most of the buildings have wooden floors raised above ground level. The cavities under the floor are empty, which gives a lot of options for solving the problem. The slope is measured by the building level or marks on the masonry, along which the pipe should pass. The assembled pipe spans are tested at intermediate stages by pouring water into the system and controlling its drain. It is important that a small part does not stagnate anywhere, since a blockage forms there, which will be difficult to remove after flooring. Sewer slopes of more than 5% are permissible if it is dictated by the convenience of placing the system or by the margin of distances under the floor.

Final assembly

When the drains are removed from the places of each discharge to the final place, the final assembly is to be done. PVC pipes for sewage have all the necessary elbows and adapters, as well as tees with various transitions, allowing you to join together the drains from the sink, shower and washing machine. Next, the riser and drain from the toilet are combined. After completion of the work, final testing with a high load is required to eliminate leaks, if any, and to avoid blockages and water accumulation.

Sewerage is released outside the perimeter of the house at a depth of at least 300 mm. It depends on the climatic features of the region, as well as on the slope of the site, the proximity of groundwater, which affect the depth of the drainage pit.

At each of the drain points, except for the toilet bowl, an elbow is made from a flexible hose, in which a small amount of water constantly stands, the so-called water seal, which excludes the penetration of an unpleasant odor from the drain. If necessary, it takes 10 minutes to clear the blockage in such a knee.

Drain system

It is she who becomes for many homeowners a stumbling block in matters of arranging a domestic sewage system in a private house. Technology has greatly simplified the work with the contents of such pits, allowing them to do without maintenance for many years.
Domestic sewerage is divided into two types - a septic tank and a traditional drain pit.

Septic tank

A technological solution promoted in the construction of cottage townships and small country houses. They are a plastic or metal container that collects all waste and organic waste. It uses only its usable volume, which is partially increased by the use of microorganisms (septic) that convert organic matter into gas (removed through the ventilation duct, does not harm the environment) and clean water (suitable for irrigating the site with a small pump). For a full-fledged residential building for a large family, large capacity models are offered.

The bottleneck for this type of sewage is its price. The cost of containers is quite high, moreover, transportation and installation are imposed on it, which must be performed in compliance with the technology so that the container remains intact.

The advantage that is worth noting is that the septic tank can be mounted in areas with high groundwater levels. The containers are sunk in dug holes, then loaded with a load so that the water does not push them out of the ground during the flood.

The average maintenance period with proper use and adequate space saving is 2-5 years.

Concrete ring septic tank

One of the subspecies of a septic tank is a device made of factory concrete rings. This type of septic tank is quite popular, because it is relatively cheap, fast and easy to install. It is quite simple to make a septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands. To do this, we dig a hole of sufficient depth. To cut off water, a layer of rubble is placed on the bottom.

Usually they put 3 one and a half meter rings on top of each other, then cover them with a lid with a hole. Another small ring is placed on this hole to access the septic tank. Such a ring is closed by a sewer hatch. The rings are fastened together with cement mortar. If you are making a septic tank with an overflow, then you need to make 2 or 3 such pyramids from rings. The more overflow chambers, the cleaner the outlet water will be. The bottom in the first chamber is waterproofed and concreted. A hole is punched in the upper part of the upper large ring and a 110 mm pipe is inserted onto which tees are put on on both sides.

If you want to make 3 chambers, then we repeat the procedure with the hole and pipe, but place them just below the overflow level from the first chamber to the second. A pipe is taken from the last chamber to the drainage field, or the bottom is left open in it and large crushed stone is laid on it. On the sides outside, the rings are covered with sand to cut off the water. Do not forget to bring the ventilation pipe out of the chambers for air access.

Video about a septic tank made of concrete rings

Cesspool

It has been used for many decades without complaints and special problems. Even in areas with a high level of groundwater filling such pits during the flood period, a solution was found in the form of placing a pit at a shallow depth, but with a large area.

The place to place the pit and drain the sewer from the house must be determined before the start of all work, since reorienting the system already divorced under the floor will require recalculation of slopes and additional time.

The pipe leading from the house to the pit is deepened by 500 - 800 mm, if the water level allows. Otherwise, it is necessary to insulate it as much as possible and leave the revision windows (a special butt block with an opening cover) for easy cleaning every 3 meters of the pipe length.

The average volume of a pit for this type of sewerage is 5 cubic meters per adult. At the same time, you should not neglect organic septic tanks, which will allow you to do without pumping out the contents for decades at all.

We build a drain pit

Having chosen a place, you need to determine the linear dimensions and depth, dig a hole and carefully align the walls. The perimeter near the walls at the bottom is dug under the edge by 300 mm and deepens by about 500 mm in depth. A small layer of rubble is placed on the bottom, then 2-3 rows of a half-block without holes are placed on the mortar. This will be the base for the walls of the cesspool.

Walls (only he is able to withstand the microenvironment for a long time), making gaps between bricks at 20 - 25% of their length, starting from 5-6 rows. Through these intervals, water will drain, which will make it possible to service the pit less often.

The masonry is not removed to the edge of the pit, but with a 400 mm shortfall. The main thing is that the sewer outlet pipe is completely lined.

At the bottom of the pit, medium crushed stone is laid out in a layer up to 200 mm thick, from above it can be reinforced with stones collected from slag heaps, similar to pumice for feet. This trick allows you to pump out the pit even less often, since microorganisms that absorb organic matter develop well in the pores of such a drain.

The overlap can be anything, from a curly finished reinforced concrete slab to a self-poured product. Such a product is created from flat slate or galvanized sheet, laid out on top of the masonry cut. The future overlap should protrude at least 250 - 300 mm beyond the edges of the masonry. Reinforcement from bars is laid on top. A mesh made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm with a cell of 20 by 20 cm will suffice. The lower edge of the mesh must be raised from the base by at least 20 mm (it is better to lay it on stones or protective layer clips). On the sides of the reinforcement we build the formwork and fill everything with a layer of concrete of 100-200 mm.

If the linear dimensions are large, a support made of brick or cast-iron pipe is placed in the center of the pit on which the floors rest.

It is imperative to leave the hatch for access to the pit, as well as for pumping it out if necessary.

An excellent solution would be to make the upper edge of the slab below ground level and lay the space around the hatch with sod.

It is imperative to leave the outlet for ventilation (standard PVC sewer pipe). Many people make gazebos or parking spaces for cars on top. But in this case, the reinforcement and the slab above the pit must be seriously strengthened.

We hope you have figured out the basics of sewerage in your home. If you still have questions, ask them in the comments to the article, we will definitely answer them.