What to lay on the floor on the balcony. What to make the floor on the balcony of: an overview of the best solutions What to make the floor on the balcony

It is not necessary to glaze the balcony to give it a cozy and complete look. It is enough to lay the flooring to make the loggia look much neater.

But how to make the floor on the balcony with your own hands? Everything is quite simple even for a novice builder.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor on the balcony - a simple option for glazed rooms

The dishonesty of builders is a well-known fact. And the curve in all three axes of the balcony slab is not surprising. And so the workers who glazed the balcony left, the walls were plastered and painted, but something is still missing for a cozy tea party. And the flooring is missing.

If you do not take care of the screed even at the stage of wet work, you should not become discouraged. After all, it was for such cases that adjustable lags were invented. The process of self-assembly is simple to obscene:

It is imperative to prepare a long building level or board, the length of which is slightly less than the width of the balcony. You will also need a hammer drill, a drill, a foam gun, a construction knife and a centimeter.
From the materials you need edged bars with a section of 45x70 mm, brackets for a log of the desired height, dowels, self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts. If it is planned to insulate the floor with two layers of insulation, the height of the brackets should be sufficient to fit the first layer under the logs. If you just need to level the floor, you can take the shortest brackets.
Cracks between concrete slabs are blown with foam. The future location of the lag and brackets is marked. Logs should be 5 cm apart from the wall, and 40-50 cm apart from each other. If MDF sheets are laid instead of wooden flooring, a transverse log must be provided at the junction of the sheets.

Brackets are fixed to the floor with dowels. For this, you will need a puncher - a conventional drill will not drill concrete. For a three-meter log, 5 brackets are needed - two at the ends and three in the span at a distance of 60 cm from each other. If the balcony is more than three meters, the required number of brackets is added. In this case, it should be borne in mind that at the junction, the bars should both be fixed with one bracket.
If two layers of insulation are provided, the first is laid under the logs. In the places where the brackets are located, the insulation is simply cut through and “fitted” onto them.

Lags are laid. Start with the outer wall. First, at the desired height, one end is fixed to one self-tapping screw. After leveling, the second end is fixed with two self-tapping screws. Since the logs must be attached to the brackets on both sides, and the screwdriver does not fit into the 5-centimeter slot, a through hole is drilled and the logs are fixed with the mentioned bolts and nut. All other brackets are fixed in the same way.
The next lag is laid under the opposite wall. Here it is leveled in accordance with the first lag, first one end, and then the second. Then all intermediate lags are laid, constantly checking the level.
Insulation is laid between the lags.

It remains only to cover the boards with varnish or paint and the floor is ready!

In order for the tree to last for a long time, it is better to pre-treat it with antiseptics and woodworm remedies. Otherwise, in a couple of years it will be possible to hear how the bark beetle gnaws at the floor laid with such difficulty!

Do-it-yourself floor on an open balcony

Wood is a wonderful material. But it is not suitable for open spaces - it gets wet, dry out, moldy and rots. Whether it's street tiles! Wear-resistant, non-slip and not afraid of temperature changes.

If a preliminary screed has been made, laying the tiles is a pleasure. If not, you will have to tinker a bit:

The floor on the balcony should be with a slight slope outward - so that the water that has fallen in will flow freely, and not stagnate. Therefore, it is impossible to use special mixtures for screed - they are “self-leveling” and simply drain to the lowest point, which will not allow you to make a slope.
You can make a mixture for floor screed on the balcony yourself: for 40 kg of cement you need 3.5 buckets of sand, 10 buckets of limestone and a little more than 2 buckets of water.
Beacons are installed - you can use metal profiles installed along the balcony (between short walls) at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Pieces of hardboard are placed under the ends so as to make the necessary slope and level the floor. You can also make beacons with self-tapping screws, as in the photo.

First, the profiles are “poured” with a solution in several places and are again checked by the level. If necessary, their position is aligned.
After a few hours, when the solution has set and the beacons no longer move, you can make a screed. To do this, a solution is poured between the beacons and the rule (more than 60 cm long) is leveled so that the profile ribs stand out.

Important: formwork should be made on the outside of the balcony so that the solution does not flow down onto the heads of passers-by. At the same time, if a concrete slab serves as the fence of the loggia, you need to leave a gap between the floor and the fence, otherwise the water will have nowhere to drain.

If the exit to the balcony is in the middle, one half is poured first, starting from the far end, and then the second. The last to fill is the gap between the beacons opposite the door.
If the thickness of the screed is small, you can not water it and start laying the tiles in a week. Otherwise, it is best to wait one to two weeks to a month, watering the floor daily to allow the concrete to gain the necessary strength.

But how to lay the tiles on the balcony itself is shown in detail in the video:

By arranging the balcony yourself, you can save a lot and bring your design ideas to life. First you need to think about how to make the floor on the loggia. Each finishing method has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Materials, their pros and cons

The balcony is present in the layout of most modern apartments. However, in old buildings, loggias are often unglazed and uninsulated. To turn the room into a living room or make it a separate room, you need to repair the balcony. This applies not only to changing its visual appearance and changing the interior, but also to laying a new floor.

The balcony can be used as an extra room, make an office there, equip a small garden or a summer dining room. In this case, before laying the floor, the loggia must be insulated. This can be done in several ways.

The following thermal insulation materials are used:

Mineral wool. The best option would be basalt.
Styrofoam. Panel dimensions 1000x2000 mm.
Penoplex. Plate size 1200x600x30 mm.
Foam. Along with the material, adhesive tape should be purchased.
Expanded clay. Used for placement between lags.
"Dry screed". A set of backfill and MDF boards placed as the top layer.

Together with heaters, you need to additionally purchase polyurethane foam and a vapor barrier film (membranes) to remove possible gaps between the blocks.

Before installing the flooring, it is necessary to level the base so that the material lays down better and does not fail prematurely. Plywood is often used for these purposes: this method is one of the simplest and cheapest. There are also special self-leveling compounds used as a base for self-leveling floors.

Another option for a rough coating is screeds (sand-cement coating). They are used to stiffen the surface and improve the heat absorption of the floor. A leveling polymer composition is applied to the screed, then the floor is laid. In some cases, it is allowed to make the layer not too even.

Different materials are used to cover the floor. Let's talk about them in more detail.

Dye

The cheapest option. Suitable for cosmetic repairs, when the loggia is not planned to be used as a living space, since in this case the surface is not leveled and not insulated. The advantage of painting the floor is the variety of colors and shades, the simplicity of the procedure.

Ceramic tile

The material is resistant to adverse weather conditions: it is not afraid of moisture, as well as snow, wind, sudden changes in temperature. Ceramics will look at open and closed loggias. There are several types of tiles. Experts recommend giving preference to materials with a rough surface. It does not slip, there are no defects on it.

Before installing such a floor, the surface must be leveled with a cement composition. If necessary, it will allow you to raise the level of the base. The advantage of the material is the speed of its installation.

Terrace board

Modern type of flooring, characterized by high resistance to external influences and durability. Due to its strength, it is suitable for installation on open loggias. Before installing the terrace boards, the base is raised, and special fasteners supplied in the kit are used to adjust the materials.

A wide variety of colors and textures allows you to choose the material for any design.

Wooden floor

The most common way to finish the floor on the loggia. The tree is durable, resistant to wear and tear, and you can install it yourself. Laying is carried out on logs or lag lathing. The latter is a box located along the perimeter of the loggia.

Such a floor, made in natural shades, will fit well into any interior. Wooden walls can be added to it.

Linoleum

Suitable in the case when the leveling of the rough base of the loggia is carried out using plywood. This is one of the most budget options for finishing the floor on the loggia. The material is relatively inexpensive, has good performance. The surface is easy to wash and clean, it almost does not leave scratches and stains.

Due to the variety of colors, you can choose linoleum that imitates parquet, decorated with patterns or geometric shapes.

Laminate

Improved wood flooring. It is also laid on top of a plywood base. Many modern models are equipped with a locking system that simplifies the installation of laminate and does not require the involvement of professional workers. Laying is carried out without fastening to the rough base, so highly specialized tools are not needed.

Main stages

Floor laying is carried out in compliance with special rules and requirements. Following them, it will be possible to obtain a durable coating that will not deteriorate over time. The process is divided into several stages.

Not only the laying of materials is required, but also surface preparation.

Surface leveling

Old buildings often have uneven surfaces. Before the main work it is required to level the floor. Initially, it is necessary to remove the remnants of old tiles, linoleum or paint, get rid of mold and dampness. Next, close up the seams and crevices through which precipitation can penetrate, and treat everything with antifungal drugs. The finish line is the sealing of the balcony and the preparation of the base for the final finish.

A popular way to level the surface is the installation of lags. These are elements of the lathing for flooring, used to strengthen the final floor structure. Without them, the flooring will creak and vibrate when walking, and may bend under the weight of furniture.

The functions of the lags include ventilation of the space under the boards to prevent their decay.

When installing the elements, the height of the threshold, the thickness of the insulation are taken into account. The grate is located on the concrete slab of the loggia, it is recommended to lay a film waterproofing. Logs are set across at equal intervals, expanded clay is poured between the bars.

How to make a draft floor, see the following video:

To hide the difference in floor level and cracks, sills are placed along the edges of the balcony.

To create a screed, a sand-concrete mixture based on water is prepared. The proportions of each manufacturer are different, and they must be carefully observed. Too thin a solution will crack, and a thick one will be difficult to lay. Good cement resembles mashed potatoes in consistency.

There are three types of screeds:

Normal. Filled with cement mortar.
Semi-dry. Sand mixed with cement. A minimum of water is used to prepare the mixture.
Dry. Installation of gypsum fiber or fiber cement boards. They are laid on the surface of expanded clay.

Floor insulation

When it becomes necessary to insulate the floor covering, the surface is initially covered with polystyrene foam, which is placed on top of the screeds. Then OSB-plates and flooring are placed on the material. A more complicated way is the installation of heating elements. They are located on a concrete screed, include electrical elements or pipes.

Floor insulation with mineral wool is one of the most common options. The material muffles sound, retains heat, it is environmentally friendly and does not burn, it is quite inexpensive. The ease of installation makes it suitable for home use.

Features of installing mineral wool:

The panels are stacked as closely as possible to each other.
When the surface is completely lined, it is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, a plastic film. Secure the material with staples and a construction stapler.
Plywood sheets (16-20 mm) are placed on top of the lag, a gap of 8-10 mm is left on the side of the walls. The material is fastened with self-tapping screws to the grid guides.
The remaining gaps are sealed with putty, the surface of the composition is carefully leveled.
The gaps along the walls are filled with mounting foam. When it hardens, it is necessary to cut off the excess to the level of the floor covering.

Mineral wool may have a thermally reflective foil layer, it is placed outside. When the guides on the walls and on the floor coincide, roll material can be used, which will simultaneously line both surfaces.

Styrofoam is laid in approximately the same way.

Penofol is mounted directly on the floor surface, protected from liquid ingress. When using lags, they are located above the material. The foil layer is located on the upper side, the joints between the layers are sealed with construction tape.

When the loggia is sufficiently well insulated, the floor covering can immediately spread onto the penofol. Penoplex also does without crates (due to its high density). The material is attached to the base using dish-shaped dowels, which guarantees the solidity of the surface. Layers can be mounted under any weather conditions and temperatures.

Penoplex is resistant to moisture and chemical compounds, it does not burn.

Raising the floor

Sometimes when repairing a loggia, you need to raise the floor. At home, this can be done at a distance of 10 to 30 cm - depending on the method chosen. You can increase the width of the coverage in the following ways:

Wooden logs. They allow you to vary the height by 10, 15 or 20 cm. The design is durable, hydro- and noise-insulated.
Metal structures. They allow you to raise the floor by 20-30 cm. Welding tools are required for installation. More expensive option, characterized by increased strength. Tiles, laminate are laid on top of the structure, they are used to insulate floors with carpet.
Dry screed. The advantage of the method is its ease of use. It is enough to fill in expanded clay and level the crumbs. Thermal insulation is not required for this method. The height of the backfill is up to 20 cm.
Sand-cement screed. Suitable only for the loggia, because the material weighs a lot. Used to raise the floor by 8-10 cm.

To decide on the method, you need to determine the desired floor height and available budget, find out how much weight the balcony can withstand. Using each of the methods, it is important to purchase materials with a margin, and during installation to avoid the occurrence of cracks. Before installation, it is important to completely clean the balcony of dirt, otherwise the rise will be uneven.

Choosing a floor covering is not as simple a process as it might seem at first glance.

The floor on the loggia must meet certain characteristics.

It should be warm, resistant to negative influences (for example, changes in humidity and temperature), pleasant to the touch, dry and easy to use. The modern market offers many types of flooring that meet these requirements. You can lay the floor with your own hands, because any options for the execution of the coating, by and large, allow you to carry out the work yourself.

Preparatory work

Before choosing a floor covering, it is required to carry out preparatory work, since it is necessary to prepare a rough base for the finishing flooring. First, we make a cement screed, with which it will be possible to level the rough base. Work on its device is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, the working surface is completely cleaned from dirt, dust, oil stains and other contaminants.
Further, a concrete-contact composition is applied to the surface, which will ensure high-strength adhesion of the cement mortar.
If the loggia is large, then it will be necessary to make a temporary wooden formwork around the perimeter of the room.
Then, using the building level, beacons are installed, which will allow you to qualitatively level the surface.
Next, prepare the leveling solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Cement mortar or self-leveling screed is applied to the rough surface. The mortar will dry for a long time (several weeks), while the self-leveling screed will dry much faster, so many experts recommend using it.

Also, the screed allows you to raise the rough base, for which high-quality cement mortar is used in large enough quantities. For this type of screed to dry completely, you will need to wait about a month.

Self-leveling floors for the loggia

It is quite difficult to talk about what is better to make the floor on the loggia.

The floor covering can be anything: linoleum, laminate, wooden floor, tile.

It is also possible to use the most ordinary plywood. In recent years, bulk floors have become widespread, which are created on the basis of self-leveling compounds. A coating of this type is not subject to negative weather and temperature influences, therefore, even in an open loggia, nothing will happen to it.

The polymer bulk coating for the loggia has an important advantage - the alignment of the composition occurs without any additional intervention. But for self-leveling floors, you need to carefully prepare a rough base: a screed is made that will level the surface, after which a polymer leveling compound is applied to it. An option is also allowed in which the cement screed will not be too even.

The principle of work on applying the polymer composition to the prepared surface is exactly the same as in the case of a cement screed device (the screed only dries longer). It should be noted that the polymer composition cannot be applied to the plywood base. It will not work to raise the floor surface on the loggia using a polymer coating.

Ceramic tiles for the loggia

Ceramic tiles will look good on both open and closed loggias. This material is not subject to weathering, so it is not afraid of moisture, snow and wind.

For loggias and balconies, experts and designers recommend choosing ceramic tiles that will have a rough surface.

The best option is a tile with an anti-slip surface. This will ensure a high level of safety during the operation of the floor covering. Which tile option is better to choose for the loggia is up to the owners to decide.

Before installing the tiles, it is imperative to level the rough surface. Tiles cannot be laid on a base with defects and height differences. For leveling, a cement compound or self-leveling screed is again suitable, which can not only level the surface, but also raise the base, which is often required when.

Ceramic tiles can not be laid on their own - for this it is not necessary to invite specialists, because installation work in a small area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia can be carried out quickly enough. It is important to understand that ceramic tiles cannot be laid on a plywood base. For her, it is better to make a quality screed.

Terrace board for a loggia

Terrace board is a relatively new type of flooring with high performance and performance. The board is great for use on open loggias without glazing.

This material is not subject to negative influences and is quite durable.

The leveling of the surface can be done with a screed, but the laying of the decking is carried out, in most cases, on wooden logs or bars that are attached to the rough base. Before installation, it is recommended to raise the floor surface in any way. Boards in the process of laying can be adjusted, for which special fasteners are used.

In stores today you can find a large selection of decking models. The material can have different shades and colors, have a unique structure and texture. Which is the best option for a loggia is up to the homeowners to decide. For use, special fasteners that come with the material, so the coating can be done quickly and with your own hands.

Careful leveling of the rough surface is not required before laying the floor. It is worth noting that when using a decking board, it will be possible to raise the floor surface well. It is not recommended to lay a board on plywood sheets.

Wooden floors for the loggia

The floor on the loggia if it is wooden is the most common option for finishing a closed loggia. Such a coating can be done by hand. Moreover, you can even choose which method is best for mounting wooden boards. For use in a loggia, it is recommended to buy lumber with high moisture-resistant characteristics, even if the room is well insulated and protected from moisture and condensation. The wooden floor should also be treated with antiseptics.

Wooden floor on the balcony.

Laying a wooden floor is carried out on logs. Ideally, you need to make a lag crate, which is presented in the form of a solid box placed around the perimeter of the loggia.

Between individual lags, a distance of 0.4-0.5 m must be observed.

It is recommended to fasten the lag with the help of wooden bosses. Between the lags, after installing the crate, it is strongly recommended to lay a heater with your own hands (which one - choose the owners), and also raise it to the level of the finish coat.

Logs of a floor with a filler.

It is best to choose soft, specialized materials that can be crammed into the space between the joists (for example, mineral wool slabs). With the help of a log, the final leveling of the base for laying the boards is performed. The boards during the installation process are adjusted to each other - the formation of cracks and gaps should not be allowed, after which they are attached to the logs with the help of long nails or self-tapping screws. You can do it all with your own hands. Laying a wooden floor on plywood sheets should not be.

Linoleum and laminate for the loggia

If the leveling of the rough base of the loggia is done with plywood, then laminate or linoleum can be used as a topcoat. Making alignment with plywood is the easiest option. Of course, with the help of plywood it will not be possible to raise the surface of the subfloor, but it is an excellent base if you plan to install a laminate or linoleum.

Linoleum on the loggia.

Laminate is the same wooden floor, but with much better performance and performance.

On the modern market, laminate and linoleum are presented in a wide variety.

The most interesting thing is that most of these models imitate just a wooden floor.

The laminate can be laid independently because modern models of laminate floors are equipped with a special locking system, so the installation is carried out in a “floating” way, that is, without attaching the coating to the rough base. Linoleum is also covered on its own - everything must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Modern linoleum has very good performance and can last in a loggia for decades.

September 26, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

What to make the floor on the balcony from is a question that needs to be addressed even before the start of repair work. Here, a lot depends on the state of the ceiling, and on whether the balcony is glazed, and, of course, on our personal preferences. However, the process of arranging the floor is by no means limited to the choice of flooring: no less important is how carefully we will perform all the preparatory work, as well as how efficiently the insulation will be carried out.

In the article I will tell you how to properly organize the overhaul of the floor on the balcony, and also describe the algorithm for performing the key stages of this process.

Step 1. Preparing the base

Stove Inspection and Repair

Before we make a floor on the balcony, we need to make sure that it has a solid foundation. The balcony slab most often acts as the base, therefore, at the first stage, all attention should be paid to it.

I usually work according to the following algorithm:

To begin with, I dismantle the old floor covering and other structural elements - in general, I remove to the maximum everything that blocks access to the main foundation.
Then I inspect the condition of the balcony slab, checking it for cracks. I examine the cracks themselves with the help of probes - steel plates of a fixed thickness, which allow me to measure the depth of the defect and determine whether its propagation in depth has stopped.

If the probe, after plunging into the crack, rests against the barrier, then there will be no deepening in the near future (most likely). If the plate is wedged in a narrow slot, then there is a risk of further deepening of the defect up to the formation of a through hole.

I clean all identified cracks from fragments of concrete and dust, and then I embroider them to stop their expansion and deepening. I fill the defects with a repair compound based on high-quality fast-hardening cement.
Before closing a wide crack, I form several transverse cuts on it - they will contribute to a more reliable fixing of the solution.
I knock down fragments of concrete from the edge of the balcony slab, which are held only by reinforcement. I make formwork from boards and pour mortar to restore the edge.

Waterproofing

When the repair compound polymerizes and dries, it will be necessary to protect the base from moisture. Waterproofing can be carried out both by a surface method and using penetrating compounds.

The upper sealing of the floor of a street balcony without opening is performed as follows:

I clean the base from cement dust that falls on it during repairs.
I lay several layers of roofing material or a waterproofing membrane on a concrete slab.
Instead of rolled material, you can use paint moisture-proof compounds: I apply them with a brush in two or three layers.

I pay special attention to finishing the gaps between the balcony slab and the front wall of the house. Here I raise the waterproofing layer by 10-15 cm, forming a barrier against leakage.

Instead of surface products, it is possible to perform waterproofing of a concrete base using penetrating compounds (Skrepa M500, Penetron and analogues). The technology for applying them will be as follows:

We clean the concrete slab and moisten it with a spray bottle.
Using a brush with synthetic bristles, apply the first layer of penetrating material.
When the coating begins to polymerize, but does not dry completely, moisten it.
We apply the second layer, performing strokes in a perpendicular direction.
Within 48 hours (minimum), we make sure that the treated surface is not subjected to mechanical stress and temperature changes.

Arrangement of the screed

If we insulate the ceiling, then the question of how to level the base for the floor covering does not arise - all the same, the floor level will rise due to the heat-insulating layer. But for open balconies, alignment is most often done by pouring the screed over the beacons:

We install beacon profiles on the base, forming a slight slope towards the street. This is done so that rainwater does not accumulate on the floor and, moreover, does not flow into the room.

We install metal corners along the perimeter, which are designed to strengthen the edges of the screed. You can also fix the perimeter with bars or boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more - they will not allow the solution to spill over the edges of the balcony.
We are preparing a solution for pouring, as a binder I use cement grade M300 and higher. We add plasticizers to the solution for quick spreading and hardeners that accelerate polymerization.

Pour the screed, carefully making sure that there are no cavities in the solution. We roll the fresh solution with a spiked roller to remove air bubbles.
Two or three hours after pouring, we remove the beacons, and fill the grooves formed in the ceiling with a solution. We rub the surface, removing the largest irregularities and trying to get the smoothest possible coating.

We dry the screed as usual: under a plastic film, with periodic moistening of the surface. Bulk concrete dries for 28 days, but this time can be reduced by adding hardeners to the solution. In any case, further work should be postponed for at least two weeks.

Step 2. Warming

Preparatory work

By insulating the floor on the balcony, we will reduce the overall level of heat loss in the room by about 5 - 8%. In addition, the thermal insulation procedure ensures the formation of an acceptable microclimate for a balcony or loggia, so it is definitely worth spending time and money on this.

Even an unheated balcony will be more comfortable if we perform the work according to the following scheme:

First, we treat the base with a primer with antiseptic components. This is done in order to prevent the development of fungi, which under a layer of insulation will feel quite comfortable.
Next, we decide on the insulating material. It all depends not only on what result we want to get, but also on the configuration of the balcony. The thing is that when deciding how to raise the floor high, we should make sure that the raised cover will not prevent the balcony door from being forged: sometimes this imposes serious restrictions on the choice of thermal insulation.

After that, we proceed to the installation of the frame for the insulation. If the concrete slab has not previously been waterproofed, several layers of polyethylene film are laid under the frame.
Then, from a bar with a section of at least 40x40 mm, we cut out the logs, which we lay on the floor. We attach the extreme log to the wall with metal brackets, and set all the rest on the same level with it on the support bars.

It is very convenient to align the logs along the plane with the help of plastic mounting wedges, which are used when installing PVC windows. Such wedges do not deform under compression and do not swell in a humid environment, and their price is only slightly higher than that of wooden ones.

The optimal step between the lags is 60-70 cm (so the floor will not sag), but I prefer to focus on the width of the thermal insulation material.

Installation of thermal insulation

You can insulate the floor on the balcony using different materials. I usually use these options:

expanded clay or perlite - if the configuration allows you to raise the level of the subfloor by at least 20 cm (and preferably by 30 - 40);

For more efficient functioning, the expanded clay layer can be poured with a very liquid cement mortar.

polystyrene foam or polystyrene - an economical option that allows you to most effectively insulate the floor on the loggia, raised above the base by 10-12 cm;
Mineral wool is the best solution, since, along with good thermal insulation potential, mineral wool has an acceptable vapor permeability.

I do my work like this:

If expanded clay is used, then I fall asleep it directly on the floor so that about 30 mm remains to the upper edge of the lag.

I adjust the panels of heat-insulating material in size to the cells between the lags of the subfloor. This is done so that the insulation does not wrinkle on the one hand, and on the other hand, large gaps do not form during installation.
I lay polystyrene or mineral wool in the space between the lags. At the same time, I carefully monitor that between the insulation and the rough flooring there is a ventilation gap of 3-5 cm.
All cracks and gaps are filled with self-expanding polyurethane foam.

I put a layer of vapor barrier on top. When choosing how to lay the insulation, I usually prefer foil film or thin foamed polyethylene with a metallized coating. These materials not only protect the heat-insulating layer from moisture, but also play the role of a “mirror” that reflects infrared rays back into the room. .
I lay a subfloor on top of the vapor barrier. It can be made from boards, chipboard or plywood (preferably moisture resistant) with a thickness of 15 cm or more.

It is not at all necessary to do the floor with your own hands on the balcony according to this algorithm. However, for a glazed loggia, which will be used, if not as a partially living space, then at least as a recreation area, one should not neglect either waterproofing, or pouring the screed, or warming.

In addition, do not forget about the flooring itself: in many respects it determines how comfortable the room will be. I will devote the next section to the key aspects of the selection and installation of materials for this stage of work.

Step 3. Installing the flooring

Overview of materials

It is impossible to say unequivocally which floor is better on the balcony: each coating has its own scope, its own poles and minuses. That is why here I will give a brief overview of the main materials, and then I will describe the editing algorithms most commonly used.

So, what to put on the draft floor to finish the balcony or loggia? We look at the table and choose:

Material	Features of use
Tile	It is with the help of tiles (ceramic, clinker or porcelain stoneware) that the floor is most often finished on a non-hermetic balcony. The material is quite expensive, but then the design is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, or climatic influences.
Polymer self-leveling floors	Another fairly modern solution that allows you to protect the base from moisture as much as possible. A small balcony area allows you to pour even quite expensive polyurethane mixtures - all the same, the material consumption will be moderate.
plank floor	Natural wood is most often used for finishing glazed balconies and loggias. At the same time, open structures can also be finished with wood - planken and decking work well here. Wood-polymer composite (WPC) should be included in the same category: they are not at all afraid of moisture, and visually they are difficult to distinguish from natural wood. True, they are expensive, and they do not tolerate severe frosts very well, but they are easily mounted with their own hands.
Linoleum	An economy option, which is usually implemented on balconies in typical high-rise buildings. Since the level of pedestrian traffic is relatively low here, household models can be used for decoration. The main thing is that the substrate is thicker - then walking on the floor will be much more pleasant.

Naturally, other answers can be given to the question of how to cover the floor on the balcony: this is a cork laminate on a moisture-resistant basis made of pressed cellulose, and a soft floor - a puzzle that is assembled from individual polymer elements, and other floor coverings.

Here it is important to choose an option that will meet the operating conditions and easily tolerate periodic moisture and temperature changes that are inevitable on a balcony or loggia.

tiling technology

When choosing what to lay on an open loggia, many often stop at the option with tiled or clinker tiles. The method of its installation practically does not differ from the method of flooring in other rooms. So here I will give only the main points of the algorithm:

For cladding, we choose exclusively floor tiles - especially since it needs very little.
We prime the base, impregnating it with an antiseptic penetrating composition.
We prepare tile adhesive with good adhesive ability. For open balconies, it is advisable to take moisture-resistant glue brands that are elastic and not afraid of temperature changes.

We apply the adhesive composition with a grater both on the base and on the tile.
We lay the tile on the floor, press it and carefully level it (keeping a slight slope to the outer wall of the balcony).
To maintain a constant width of the seams between the cladding elements, we use special spacers.
After facing, we remove the remaining glue from the surface and leave the balcony for about 12 hours.

Then we remove the remote crosses, if necessary, we embroider the seams and perform their grouting. For grouting, you can use any moisture-resistant composition, but here I would recommend stopping at polymeric materials: even if they are more expensive and more difficult to apply, but after polymerization they are not at all afraid of moisture.

Finishing the balcony with tiles is completed after the grout has completely dried: we just have to rinse the surface of the tile, removing the remnants of glue and jointing mixture from it.

Linoleum flooring

If for open balconies the “default” finishing option is ceramic tiles, then when decorating a glazed loggia, inexperienced craftsmen are often interested in how to lay linoleum. There are several nuances here:

We bring a roll of linoleum onto the balcony and leave it there for at least a day. All the same, deformations of the coating cannot be avoided (temperature changes here are sharper than in an apartment), but it is very important that the material is sufficiently stable at the time of installation.
Then we roll out the coating on the floor and perform a rough trim. Along the walls we leave a margin of 40-50 mm for the shrinkage of the canvas.
You can lay linoleum on the balcony without glue, but I still prefer glue installation as it is more reliable. To do this, I fold the roll in half, and apply a layer of PVA-based glue to the freed part of the subfloor.

I turn the linoleum back and smooth it out, removing wrinkles and air pockets.
I repeat the operations for the second half of the material.
12 hours after gluing, I perform the final trimming: cutting the edges so that the gap to the wall is about 5 mm.
The installation of the plinth around the perimeter of the balcony and fixing the edge of the canvas at the entrance with a small threshold, which should fit snugly against the balcony, completes the work.

Conclusion

Of course, you can finish the floor on the balcony and other technologies. However, the algorithms I proposed will be useful not only for beginners, but also for experienced finishers, so before starting repair work, you should carefully study the video in this article, which contains a number of useful recommendations.

In addition, you can seek advice on arranging floors on the balcony by asking a question in the comments.

It is not difficult to arrange a wooden floor on a balcony or loggia with your own hands if you use the advice of the masters. It is only important to remember the necessary measures to protect against temperature effects and humidity. If you follow the technology, you can get a beautiful and environmentally friendly coating, which is pleasant to step on even barefoot.

Advantages of a wooden floor

If you like to go out onto a balcony or terrace barefoot, you will certainly appreciate the advantages of natural material, which is warm not only because of its low thermal conductivity, but also, according to connoisseurs, due to its natural origin.

Laying boards on logs, subject to the accuracy of all operations, allows you to get a flat surface.
A large selection of coatings opens up a wide range of design possibilities. Popular wooden floors, which retained the natural color, pattern, texture.

The advantages of a wooden floor on logs include:

the ability to raise the level (relevant for balconies in a high step),
floor leveling,
long service life of boards,
the possibility of high-quality insulation,
environmental friendliness and beautiful appearance,

Preparation for work

Before you install a wooden floor on the balcony with your own hands, it is important to choose the right materials. To avoid problems caused by moisture, special impregnation of all structural elements is required.

If the project's economy is a priority, it is possible to impregnate the boards and joists yourself, but this process will take time (including the drying period).
You can speed up the work by purchasing ready-made elements with impregnation. They are more expensive, but it will be possible to start work immediately after acquiring everything you need.

If you purchase "raw" lumber, you will need to dry it at room temperature. It is important to carefully inspect the timber and boards after drying. If some of them are deformed in the process, they are discarded; they are not suitable for installing a wooden floor.

Before you make a wooden floor on the balcony with your own hands, you should carefully prepare the surface:

to dismantle the old coating,
take out the trash,
sweep or (at best) remove dust and small rubbish with a vacuum cleaner,
dry (if necessary).

Tip: If the slab has a lot of irregularities, then it makes sense to make a wooden floor before installing it.

Materials and tools

To lay a wooden floor on a loggia with your own hands, you will need a certain set of tools that are important to prepare in advance along with the materials so that there are no interruptions in work in the future.

The best logs are hardwood timber (for example, oak). Metal structures can give extra weight, which is undesirable for a balcony. This option can be used, but is not optimal.
Flooring is easiest and most practical to do from a floorboard. The elements of such a coating have the necessary impregnation, they are even in thickness and have embossed ends for connection according to the tenon-groove principle. Edged boards require sanding when laying, sanded boards have carefully leveled surfaces on all sides, so that the boards fit snugly together. Budget flooring options - plywood and.
For heat and waterproofing, you will need to close the cracks with waterproof plaster. With a large hole size, it is optimal to use mounting foam for these purposes. You will also need a waterproof film.
For the heat-insulating layer, choose: foam, polystyrene or other materials with a low thermal conductivity.

To make a wooden floor on a loggia, you will need the following tools:

screwdriver,
drill,
electric jigsaw or hacksaw,
construction stapler,
hammer,
level (length over 1 meter),
knife for cutting insulation.

Sequence of work

Accurate adherence to the sequence of work will help to avoid mistakes.

Waterproofing

To protect materials from the penetration of moisture from the outside, carefully seal all the cracks. After that, a waterproofing film is laid. Now the wooden floor on your balcony is reliably protected from moisture, but you will also need to protect the heat-insulating layer from water that can get in during wet cleaning. The second layer of film is applied after installing the insulation. As the first layer, you can use, which will create additional insulation.

Installation lag

Longitudinal logs are mounted along the balcony, parallel to the bearing wall. On typical balconies, three pieces are usually enough - one is fixed in the center of the floor, and two - at the edges. Anchors or dowel-nails are used as fasteners.

Installing the log is a crucial stage of installation, at this time the future floor is leveled horizontally. The position of each log is checked with a level, if there is a roll of the concrete base of the balcony or its unevenness, in the right places the height of the log is adjusted with a wooden or plastic lining. When fastening, it, like the log itself, is stitched through with a self-tapping screw.

A more reliable basis will be a design consisting of transverse and longitudinal logs. The transverse ones are installed first with an interval of 40-50 cm. Longitudinal logs are laid on top of them. As a rule, longitudinal logs are more massive than transverse ones. The fastening of the longitudinal logs is carried out by a through passage of self-tapping screws, which are recessed in the body of the log by 1.5-2 cm.

All logs are installed so that they do not come into contact with the walls.

Important: When installing the log, you must take into account the final height of the floor along with the finish coating, which should not exceed the height of the balcony sill.

Warming

Insulation is placed in the space between the lags, it can be a little short of their upper level. The space filled with air becomes additional thermal insulation. Cutting heat-insulating materials is easily done with a clerical or construction knife. A film is laid on top of the heat-insulating layer, it can be fixed to the logs using a construction stapler.

As mentioned earlier, floor insulation can be enhanced by laying heat-reflecting material before installing insulation. When laying it, however, as with laying a film, it is important to ensure an overlap on the walls on all sides of 20-25 cm.

Coating laying

Boards on logs are laid in the direction from the wall. When laying the position of the first board, be sure to check it with a square or level. The coating must be located strictly perpendicular to the wall. Stepping back 1 - 1.5 cm from the wall, the first board with a cut-off spike is fixed with self-tapping screws. At this stage it is important to fulfill certain conditions:

Three edges of the first board (the fourth will be in contact with the second board) do not touch the walls, the size of the gaps is 10-15 mm.
The fixing screws are screwed in at an angle of 45°.

After that, perform the following actions:

Having measured the distance, a little more than the width of the board, an auxiliary rail is installed using self-tapping screws.
The second panel is laid next to the first and connected by end fastening.
To more tightly press the boards to each other, 2-3 wedges are inserted between the second board and the rail. When they are clogged, the gap decreases. It is also convenient to adjust the boards close to each other without using a rail with impact pad, which can be independently made from wood.
Each board is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws into the groove at an angle.
The first and last floor boards are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws to the logs along the longitudinal line.

These actions are repeated the required number of times, after which the laid floor is framed with skirting boards.

The question “how to cover the wooden floor on the balcony” can also be resolved in favor of plywood or pressed sheets, if subsequent linoleum or laminate flooring is expected. Laying such materials on logs is not difficult. The joints of the sheets must pass along the lags. The sheets are fastened to the logs using self-tapping screws with an interval of 20 cm. It is most convenient to drill holes in the sheets before that.

Finish coat

It remains to decide how to process the wooden floor on the balcony or loggia after installation. The classic solution to the problem is painting. It is only important to choose the right paint that will be moisture resistant and will be able to maintain its qualities when exposed to ultraviolet rays and temperature changes. For the best quality of the paint coating, it is made multi-layered with the obligatory drying of each layer before applying the next one.

The final stage is varnishing the wood floor

You can preserve the beauty of the natural pattern of wood using a colorless varnish. In order for the floorboard on the balcony to acquire an original look, use stain or coloring impregnations before applying varnish. Types of materials for lining lining.