The correct depth of sewerage in a private house. The depth of laying a sewer pipe in a private house

When laying sewer pipes from the house to the septic tank (cesspool), many parameters are taken into account: diameter, total length of the line, angle of inclination. In case of an error in the calculations, so-called ice plugs can form in winter. In this case, stop right job sewers in a private house. The scheme and depth of laying sewer pipes are the main factors for proper installation.

Rules for laying sewer pipes

A site plan is preliminarily drawn up with the location of a house, outbuildings, greenhouses and a garden on it. septic tank deep cleaning should be located at least 5 meters from the house, 15 from the source drinking water and 2 meters from the border of the site. After choosing its location, you can proceed to the design of the sewer pipeline.

The basic rules for the arrangement are set out in SNiP 3.05.04-85. But it is recommended to take only part of the recommendations from it, since the document was developed without taking into account the use of modern polymer pipes:

  • First, a septic tank is installed or a cesspool is arranged. The installation depth is regulated by the manufacturer. The upper part with the inspection hatch must remain on the surface.
  • The angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For self-laying, you can use the value of 20 mm for a section of 110 mm. The larger the last value, the smaller the slope.
  • The sewerage scheme should have a minimum of rotary elements. Due to the increase in air resistance and friction, runoff and waste can remain in these areas, subsequently creating a blockage.

Depth calculation for pipes of septic tanks and cesspools

Although there is no domestic waste or sewage left in the outdoor piping, the impact negative temperatures may adversely affect the operation of the sewer. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the pipeline. It depends on several factors.

Rules for calculating the laying depth:

  • The smallest depth of the pipeline will be at the foundation of the house - the junction of the internal and outdoor sewerage. It should be more than the level of soil freezing.
  • lifting height ground water. They create pressure on the pipeline and artificially reduce the depth during floods or heavy snowmelt.
  • Soil type. Not all areas have the ability to make a trench of the required depth. In particular, this applies to soil with a predominance of rocks. The solution to the problem is the insulation of the pipeline.

Before laying pipes, you need to properly equip the trench. After its formation, a number of actions should be performed.

Falls asleep at the bottom sand cushion and carefully compacted. Then, a base for the pipe is formed from a layer of crushed stone. Its slope and location relative to the septic tank are checked. The final filling is done after checking the tightness of the line. The degree of soil pressure on the pipe surface is taken into account.

Frost protection

External sewer insulation may be the only alternative if it is impossible to make a trench of the required depth. For this you can use various materials, it is important that they do not collapse under the influence of moisture or temperature changes.

As a heater, you can use the following materials:

  • Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene shell. They are characterized by ease of installation, affordable cost, do not let moisture through.
  • Basalt wool. You can use forms in the form of a shell or a sheet version of the insulation. The installation of a waterproof film is mandatory, since cotton wool allows water to pass through.
  • Foamed polyethylene. It has good thermal insulation properties, but has insufficient thickness. Can be used to form an additional protective layer.

An alternative option is to install a resistive heating cable. But due to the large diameter of the pipeline, a powerful model will be required, which is not always appropriate and may not fit within the budget.

sewer line - milestone in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage, then in order to equip a completely autonomous sewerage system, it is necessary to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to the collection well. Installation of sewerage for a private house is not a quick matter, but with self-fulfillment there shouldn't be any major problems. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewage and a prefabricated well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sanitation systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying a sewer network:

  • Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per running meter, and calculate the amount of necessary building materials.
  • Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
  • Cut pipes into lengths according to the project.
  • Carry out internal wiring and bring the sewer pipe outside.
  • Install fan pipe.
  • Install outdoor sewer.
  • Arrange a prefabricated well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Intra-house sewerage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start the assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the connection order is unimportant, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

  • Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sink- 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time, its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
  • Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
  • The connection of pipes must be tight and not interfere with the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there should be no roughness and burrs at the junction.
  • Right angles should be avoided, as they are the most likely to form blockages. To perform a turn, it is better to use several knees with smaller angles.
  • It is necessary to prevent back suction from the sewer and the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
  • If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be equipped.
  • Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
  • Piping nodes cannot be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
  • Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut out with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
  • The points of connection to the riser and the turns of the pipeline are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future in case of clogging.
  • The riser is located as close as possible to the outlet of the sewer to the outside.

The arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with a layout and a laying scheme. This allows you to most conveniently arrange all plumbing, make the right slope, accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work smoothly, and in the event of a breakdown or clogging of one of the elements, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article we will tell you how to correctly draw up schemes for internal and external (external) sewage for a private house or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used during installation and installation autonomous system with your own hands inside and outside the house.

Charting starts from a distant plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and Supplies bathrooms on different tiers are placed along one vertical line.

Sewerage in the house consists of:

  • Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
  • Drainage from all plumbing;
  • Pipes leading drains to the external sewer;
  • Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
  • Clamps in the walls that support the pipes and give them direction and angle.
  • Central stand.

It is important that the house does not have a transition from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

accurate drawing internal system depends on the number of storeys of the building, the presence of a basement, the number of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and the binding to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device).

On the diagram All items must be displayed to scale. so that in the event of a scheduled repair or an emergency, you can quickly figure out the wiring and find a breakdown.

outer line

External sewerage starts from the pipeline from the foundation. Effluent is diverted to a septic tank, cesspool or filtering structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside there is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be mounted near windows, with access to the courtyard or near smokers. Categorically it is forbidden to connect it with the usual ventilation shaft . Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for the intake of drains, autonomous installations are used.

  1. Cesspool. It is easy to organize on the site and is the most cheap option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of stocks. There is a possibility of dirt getting into groundwater and bad smell.
  2. A do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete-filled bricks or pre-cast concrete poles c. It performs its functions well, durable and strong. The disadvantages include for a long time installation and significant construction costs.
  3. Industrial offline installation . Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered by the speed of construction, High Quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
  4. Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. Differs in the highest degree of cleaning and big productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

Be sure to determine the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that 200 liters of water per day is used for each inhabitant of the house. Drains in the septic tank settle for 3 days. Based on these data, we get Exact size waste tank.

So, a family of 4 people consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, it is necessary to select a septic tank of just such a volume. If desired, you can make a small margin in case of a maximum load of the tank. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main armature:

  • Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
  • Tees with a 45 or 90 degree flank.
  • Elbow for connecting pipes with a height difference (450 rubles / pc.).
  • Rectilinear double-sided clutch with rubber cuffs in the sockets (from 30 rubles).
  • Revision (60 rubles)
  • reduction different parameters(from 40 rubles / piece)
  • Hood umbrella (from 50 rubles)

Before you begin to equip the sewer system, you must carefully read the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell in a special review.

Water can be not only beneficial, but also harmful to human body. Which coarse filter better fit to give, find out from this.

Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of laying. With a cross section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid clogging and “fatting” of the sewer in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When mounted on land plot maintain the same angle of inclination. A sleeve (a pipe of larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewer, and located 30 cm above the freezing level of the soil.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable- you will have to make a very deep septic tank. Subject to a constant slope, it will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost is increased by additional concrete rings and stronger (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or heating cable insulation can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain waste from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

Pipes can be used to organize a sewer system in a private house. cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

Outdoor (PVC)

Designed for outdoor networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite being relatively cheap, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and concealed installation . For them, the connection method is recommended cold welding. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications, they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

  • Single or multilayer.
  • The foam is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
  • The connection is carried out by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the device and laying of an external system

Briefly, instructions on how to properly make a local autonomous sewer system in a private country house(in the country) with their own hands, looks like this:

  1. Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
  2. Formation of a sand cushion.
  3. Layout of all constituent elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
  4. Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewerage. For greater reliability attachment points are treated with silicone sealant.
  5. Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
  6. Fill the trench, trying to compact the sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding a sharp load at a right angle. The thickness of the sand bed at least 15 cm.

For pipe bends, fittings for external engineering networks. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the site with an intermediate revision well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer for a private house, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly sewer in a private house, do everything according to the scheme yourself and lay pipes for the system without errors? Installation sewer system will be better if follow a few guidelines:


When installing a sewer it is important to consider every nuance: the placement of plumbing, the relief of the site, the location of the intake manifold or septic tank, the depth of pipe laying and the angle of inclination.

Only with careful scheming, careful planning and order installing a sewerage system in a private house or in a country house with your own hands can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.

Any private house must have its own sewer distribution inside the building and a system for removing dirty wastewater, which directs flows into a centralized sewer pipe or into an autonomous septic tank. Do-it-yourself sewerage is being installed in a private house, and many schemes have been developed for its implementation, so your task is to choose correct device do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house, purchase building materials and prepare a tool. Correct calculations of the sewer line will help minimize the cost of building materials, make the sewer more efficient and durable. And how to mount the sewer correctly, read on.

Where to place the sewer in the yard

Sewerage for a private house is being installed according to established standards and regulations, internal sewerage should be operated for a long time, without overhauls and frequent preventive maintenance. In the house, the internal sewerage is designed to combine pipes and plumbing equipment- baths, showers, sinks, as well as for the removal of sewage, which inevitably appear in everyday life.

Even self-assembly sewerage in a private house must adhere to the norms of SNiP and be carried out according to the plan drawn up before assembling the main line and its components. But the main part of the autonomous sewer system is a device sewer septic tank or a cesspool into which sewage will fall.

The main standards for arranging a homemade cesspool in the yard:

  1. The distance to the residential building is ≥ 5-12 m. But with an increase in this parameter, it will be more difficult to observe the slope angle of the sewer line.
  2. The distance from the outbuildings to the sump is ≥ 1 m.
  3. Distance from the fence of the neighboring area ≥ 2-4 m.
  4. Distance from green spaces ≥ 3-4 m.
  5. From sources of drinking water, a cesspool or septic tank should be equipped 30 meters or more.
  6. The depth of the sump depends not only on the volume of sewage wastewater, but also on the depth of groundwater flow. In this case, the pit should not, according to SNiP, be deeper than 3 m.

The depth of storage of the main volume of sewage sewage must be calculated in such a way that the reservoir is dug below the level of soil freezing in a given geographical region. Before you properly make a septic tank, you should follow the rule: the container or pit should be filled no more than 30-35 cm from the manhole cover.

Solutions for the arrangement of external sewerage

Which treatment systems to install directly depends on the desire and capabilities of the owner. There are the following types of sewer systems:

  1. An industrial septic tank is a device that allows you to collect and process wastewater supplied by the internal sewerage of a house into clean industrial water and biological fertilizers. In septic tanks, dirty water is settled and cleaned by biobacteria and microorganisms that multiply with organic waste.
  2. Biotreatment with a special cleaning station, which has a high performance and high cleaning efficiency. The system is not autonomous, it depends on electricity, an expensive pleasure.
  3. A dry closet is a solution that provides storage of small volumes of sewage. For service country house or country house the dry closet is not suitable, as it is able to process and store only fecal waste from human life.
  4. The cesspool is a traditional and reliable option, it has been used for centuries. In conditions modern construction and developments for wastewater treatment, the cesspool is being equipped less and less. In addition, a large pit is more difficult to equip and maintain manually.

It is realistic to make a sewer in a private house on your own for all of the above options, except for the installation of a cleaning station, which will require the help of professionals and correct calculations.

Homemade cesspool on the site

Read more about how sewerage is arranged using a cesspool. To equip a cesspool, it is necessary to dig a large hole - a sewer pipe from the house is connected to it - drains from a toilet, bath, kitchen, etc. If the soil in the yard is loose or sandy, then it is recommended to overlay the walls of the pit with bricks or pour concrete in the shape of the formwork.

The advantages of this solution are low cost of work and building materials, simple installation and reliable design.

The disadvantages that a home-made sewage system has in a private house with a cesspool:

  1. It is necessary to constantly remove accumulated solid waste from the pit. Since the walls of the pit silt over time, it will also be necessary to pump out liquid effluents.
  2. An unpleasant smell in the area in case of poor sealing or its complete absence.
  3. Since the water will eventually soak the soil around the pit, the site will become contaminated.
  4. If the methodology for arranging a cesspool is violated, pipes can freeze in winter or become clogged at any time of the year.

sealed tank

A cesspool can be made with your own hands, according to the principle of a sealed tank, as in a septic tank. The tank can be used metal or plastic, but before you make a sewer, you should correctly calculate the capacity of the tank. The calculations will be given below. It is only necessary to remember that the metal container quickly rusts, so it must be carefully protected with anti-corrosion substances.

The plastic tank has more advantages:

  1. No need for waterproofing and anti-corrosion coating, the container does not react with aggressive substances in wastewater.
  2. The plastic tank is initially sealed.
  3. The small weight of the tank is the ability to mount it yourself, without renting an excavator and a crane.
  4. Dimensions and shape of tanks - in a wide range.

There is only one drawback - the high price of the product.

Plastic or reinforced concrete septic tank with one chamber

One chamber contains a small amount of waste - about 1 m 3 for a family of 2-3 people. The calculation of the volume is simple - the daily water consumption per tenant will be approximately 200 liters. This means that for 2-3 people, the water consumption per day will be 600 liters, but taking into account the reserve, a volume of 1000 liters is taken to prevent overflow of the tank. This solution will work reliably if you do not increase the number of residents and consumed water. Structurally, the sewerage in a house with a single-chamber waste tank is the sewerage wiring in a private house according to the scheme below, and the settled water from the chamber is discharged into the ground or pumped out for the needs of the household. To improve the quality of wastewater treatment, bioadditives in the form of breeding bacteria that destroy organic matter can be added to the tank.


Design advantages:

  1. Low cost and easy installation without the involvement of special equipment.
  2. Independent performance of all work operations for the installation and connection of the septic tank chamber to the house sewer.
  3. Environmental friendliness and tightness - there are no unpleasant odors from the septic tank.
  4. Both the reinforced concrete tank and the plastic chamber do not react with aggressive substances in wastewater.
  5. Long term maintenance-free operation of the tank.

A single-chamber septic tank works as follows: drains from the house by plastic pipes move towards the septic tank chamber, where solid debris settles to the bottom of the tank. From the chamber, the effluents enter the soil, where they are additionally purified by means of natural filtration.

Autonomous septic tank with two tanks

This is a more voluminous sewer for a private house - how to install it correctly? For this, a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house, which operates a septic tank with two tanks.

  1. The first tank in this scheme is designed to allow dirty water to settle and be cleaned. Solid debris remains at the bottom, upper layer liquids in the chamber are purified water, fats and household chemicals.
  2. The second tank is designed for re-treatment of wastewater. In it, the lower layer is fats and chemical substances. The water in the second chamber is further purified by approximately 60-65%.

When the second chamber overflows, water begins to overflow into the ground. This allowable rate, since after cleaning in the second chamber, the water has regulatory indicators for environmental friendliness. Autonomous sewerage in a private house, the scheme of which is given above, provides more a high degree wastewater treatment and the safety of people living in the house. This scheme works great in a house with 5-8 residents living in it.

Advantages of a two-chamber septic tank:

  1. Cleaner water output.
  2. Tanks do not corrode.
  3. The service life of such a cleaning scheme is ≥ 50 years.
  4. You can assemble and run a septic tank with two cleaning chambers yourself.

Flaw:

Need periodic and regular cleaning of the walls of the chambers from silting. When carrying out such an operation, it is not recommended to remove all the sludge, since it contains biobacteria that decompose organic matter.

Biofiltration septic tank


Self-installation of sewage in a private house may involve the use of a biofilter. This is a tank with expanded clay, which is inherently inert. Expanded clay acts as a biological filter for wastewater treatment:

  1. Drains alternately flow through the chambers, where they are cleaned, after which they enter the biofilter, covered with expanded clay.
  2. Aerobacteria in the biofilter decompose and oxidize the organic matter present in the wastewater.
  3. After complete cleaning, process water enters the drainage system.

Advantages:

  1. High level of cleaning, reduction drainage field and work autonomy.
  2. Dirt, debris, grease and chemicals are almost all removed. As a result, the output is clean industrial water, suitable for irrigation or other household work in the yard.

Flaws:

  1. Constant addition of biobacteria, high construction cost.
  2. The need to clean the biological filter and pump out excess wastewater with sewage equipment.

The cost of self-arrangement of sewerage in your home

The cost of plastic tanks is available to any owner of a private household:

Product markingPrice in rubles at the beginning of 2019
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀110 mm100
Pipe plastic 100 cm, ⌀ 110 mm190
Pipe plastic 200 cm, ⌀ 110 mm350
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 110 mm500
Plastic pipe 400 cm, ⌀ 110 mm690
Plastic pipe 600 cm, ⌀ 110 mm1000
Plastic pipe 15 cm, ⌀ 50 mm40
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀ 50 mm50
Pipe plastic 100 cm, ⌀ 50 mm60
Plastic pipe 150 cm, ⌀ 50 mm90
Plastic pipe 200 cm, ⌀ 50 mm100
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 50 mm140
Clamp ⌀ 110 mm45
Clamp ⌀ 50 mm30
Elbow ⌀ 110/450 mm110
Elbow ⌀ 50/450 mm30
Tee ⌀ 110 mm200
Tee ⌀ 50 mm40
Plug ⌀ 110 mm80

When compared with pipes and steel elements, then plastic products simpler and easier to install.

  1. By purchasing PVC pipes and parts, you should check the presence of a rubber gasket in the sockets.
  2. Do not connect the exhaust pipe to the ventilation system.
  3. If the internal sewerage is installed according to the standard scheme (one bathroom, sink and sink, washing machine, shower), then there is no need to equip a fan pipe.
  4. Autonomous sewerage-septic tank for a private house

    All decisions on the assembly of the sewerage system must be thought out, calculations made and the scheme reflected on paper. Therefore, when laying sewers on your own, choose an option that will take into account all the nuances of the architecture and geometry of your home. If you are not sure of your knowledge and experience, contact the professionals. Better spend more money on the correct installation than to correct errors, which will cost more.

Regardless of whether a private house is connected to a central or autonomous sewerage, the sewage disposal system on the street must be equipped independently. Before starting this work, you need to develop an installation scheme that allows you to bypass minimum size piping and sewer lines.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewer depends on these parameters.

Connecting a private house to the sewer

Circumstances and layout of external sewage

The outer part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a waste storage tank located on the site, or with a central sewer, with a pipeline network. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. Laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a scheme developed in advance, taking into account the following circumstances:

  • terrain features;
  • weather;
  • remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
  • the total volume of effluents, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
  • the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
  • ways of access of the car of a vacuum truck if necessary.

In the external sewerage laying scheme, it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, since otherwise, over time unpleasant odors will enter residential areas. Read about the rules for the sewer ventilation device in the article. Ventilation is provided with fan pipe, which can be placed on the lid of the septic tank or on the section of the pipeline that runs from the house to the storage tank of wastewater.


Scheme of arrangement of autonomous external sewerage

The septic tank is equipped at the lowest point of the geological relief of the site. This arrangement allows you to most optimally perform the installation of external sewage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe of the internal sewage disposal system.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing the location of the drain, you should, first of all, make sure that the unpleasant smell does not penetrate into the living quarters. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance will be ten meters, it is also not worth placing a septic tank too far, since this significantly increases the cost of laying the pipeline network. The external sewage connection to the house should not be carried out at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

  • water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
  • a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
  • for the convenience of pumping out sewage, it is better to place drains near the road;
  • especially careful sealing of the storage tank is needed when the groundwater is located close;
  • the laying of the pipeline network facilitates the natural slope of the terrain.

Rules for placing a septic tank on the site

A cesspool for sewerage has been used since ancient times. Previously, they did not waste energy on sealing its walls, and when the pit was filled, it was covered with earth and a new one was dug out. Now the walls are made of bricks, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid waste fractions seep through the soil at the bottom, being filtered, solid components gradually fill the mine, and after a while they need to be pumped out.

The arrangement of a cesspool is advisable if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed the value of one cubic meter per day. If this limit is exceeded, pollution will occur. environment.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container for the accumulation of wastewater. In this case, a thorough waterproofing of the bottom and walls of the shaft is performed. Thus, the possibility of contamination of the soil and drinking sources is prevented. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up rather quickly.

Decide on the type of treatment plant

Treatment facilities for a private house are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or sealed container for waste water. To improve the filtration of wastewater allows a single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning or a two-chamber septic tank with a filter well. A variant of the construction of three chambers with a filtration field, as well as with the use of a biofilter and an air supply system is possible.


Tire filtration septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank, in essence, is cesspool with drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured at the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, the liquid fractions of the waste are cleaned before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer must be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small amount of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the sump, the faeces are partially clarified, then they fall into the mine with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently cleaned.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private house, as it does not require large financial costs for its equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank of two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. Settling in the first tank, the partially clarified effluent through the overflow pipe enters the next chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from improvised materials in the article

Having successively passed through all sections, the effluent enters the filtration field, which is an area underground of about thirty square meters where the final soil cleaning. If available on site free space this way of arranging sewage is optimal.


Diagram of a septic tank with a biofilter

A septic tank with a biofilter is a station for deep sewage treatment. According to the principle of operation, it is similar to a treatment system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and anaerobic bacteria settled at the outlet of the overflow pipe into the fourth section, which cleans the wastewater by approximately ninety-five percent. Such water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, because if the sewage system of this design is not used constantly, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Sewer pipe laying depth

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when deepening sewer pipes into the ground. They must be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice growths on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.


Map of normative freezing depths

In the southern regions, the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty or more centimeters, in the central regions - seventy or more centimeters. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your area in order not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the cost of doing the work will increase.

Organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house

Output organization sewer pipe from the house depends on the stage of readiness for operation of the building. If the house has just been built, shrinkage of the foundation is possible, therefore, drilling a hole in it to bring out the sewer pipe should be of a noticeably larger diameter than the cross section of the pipe itself.


Variants of schemes for the withdrawal of sewerage from the house

In the event that the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the laying of the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the common drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to a common outlet. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, in which case one riser can be dispensed with.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewage in a private house

The external sewage system consists of a cleaning tank and a piping system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before execution installation work on the site plan, an external sewerage scheme is applied.


Practical options for removing sewers from the house

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. Usually they have Orange color. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on the climatic features of the area, the composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most time-consuming part of the work when installing a sewer with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. The optimal distance at which the septic tank is removed from the house is about ten meters.

The volume of the storage capacity directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

Connect the storage tank to the outlet of the internal sewer runoff best in a straight line, bends and turns in the piping system increase the likelihood of clogging. For the convenience of cleaning, a long line in places of change of direction must be equipped with inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped external sewer looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces, so you need to withstand correct angle tilt. If it is too small, large fragments of waste will be retained and the sewer will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown to the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. Information on the correct sewer slope can be found in the article.

The desired angle is maintained and controlled building level when digging a trench, its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is laid at the bottom of the ditch, which is a sand mound, pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

An important operational parameter of the sewer system is the depth of the pipeline network. It must necessarily be below the freezing point of the soil in the region. Otherwise, in winter, frozen sewage can tear pipeline network and disable the sewers. For repair work will have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly equip pipe insulation

To prevent the occurrence of emergencies in the cold season, it is better to perform thermal insulation of the sewer. Many have good thermal insulation properties. modern materials e.g. polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool. You can properly equip the thermal insulation of the pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a sheath made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.


Options for insulation of external sewerage

Can also be fixed over thermal insulation polyethylene film. In cold northern regions to protect sewer pipes from freezing insulation layer additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil, especially if snowdrifts melt in the spring on the surface. Interesting experience on laying pipes of external sewerage can be gleaned from the following video.