How to connect a washing machine drain, how to do it right. Washing machine drain hose Washing machine drain connection

When installing a brand new washing machine in his apartment or private house, each owner is worried about how to properly connect it to communications. And if we already wrote about how to connect the machine to the water supply and, now it's time to consider connecting the washing machine to the sewer.

The surest technology is to connect the drain hose directly to the sewer. The process requires effort and time, but we will tell you in detail how to properly connect the drain hose of the washing machine.

Connecting the washing machine: preparation

Any work related to technology requires serious and thorough preparation. And connecting a washing machine to the sewer is no exception.

If the washing machine is old, and you just reinstall it after moving, then you will have to buy something. Some accessories are included with new machines.

Preparation includes three stages:

  1. Decide on a place. It can be a bathroom - you must admit, it is convenient, since the drain is very close. The kitchen is also suitable, as the sink and sewerage are within reach. In rare cases, this is a hallway, when there is very little space in the kitchen or bathroom.
  2. Prepare your tools. You may need all or part of the list below:
  • Screwdrivers - slotted and cross, different sizes (it is better to take a universal one with nozzles).
  • If you have to cut into a pipe, then a special pipe cutter will not interfere.
  • Welding for metal-plastic pipes.
  • Siphon for connecting the washing machine to the sewer. Suitable for both regular and non-return valves.
  • Plastic tee.
  • Sealant.
  • Rubber seals.
  • Corrugated hose of the right length to drain the water (buy a new one or lengthen it if what the manufacturer provided is not enough).

Important! The drain hose should not exceed three meters in length so as not to create an unnecessary load on the drain pump.

Remove the shipping bolts holding the tank in place. Unscrew them from the back panel and close them with plugs.

After going through all three steps, you can start connecting the drain hose of the washing machine.

Options for connecting the machine to the sewer

There are three most common options, consider them.

Through the siphon

Before you connect the washing machine to the sewer, you need to install the siphon on the sink. If the siphon does not have another outlet for the technique, then you will need a tee.

But there is one downside! If you connect the washer in this way, then a not-too-pleasant smell from the sewer pipe may enter the drum.

To avoid this, your task is to take care of creating a so-called "air barrier" in the siphon.

Examine the siphon - on it you will find a small hole for a corrugated pipe. This pipe is bent so that when water stagnates, a “plug” appears in the bend. It is this cork that does not let sewer aromas into your machine.

Such a scheme does not complicate the discharge of water, and the plug is “updated” during each descent of waste water into the sewer system.

Through siphon with non-return valve

If you have purchased a siphon with a non-return valve, you can be sure that the washing machine is protected not only from odors, but also from contaminated water. With it, the drain will be much more efficient.

During the occurrence of a blockage in a conventional siphon, the wastewater returns to the machine on its own - the so-called “self-draining” process takes place. To protect the machine from this, you should choose a siphon with a valve.

Attention! After installing the siphon, connect the hose to the appropriate branch using a clamp.

without siphon

It happens that the connection occurs without a siphon - directly to the sewer pipe. For such a case, you will need to buy an adapter seal ring. It allows you to insert a thin hose into a fairly wide hole. The method is more complicated, but it will be relevant in two cases:

  • There is no sink in the room.
  • The machine is more than two meters away from the sink siphon.

In the photo you can see a visual demonstration of how to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer system without using a siphon adapter tube. It also shows how to connect the SMA through a siphon.

In any case, no matter how you organize the drainage of the washing machine - through a siphon or directly to the pipe, consider the distance between the drain point and the floor. The point at which the end of the hose must be located according to all the rules must be at least 50 cm from the floor and not more than 1 m.

Of course, the numbers may vary, given the power of the pump: the more powerful the pump, the greater the deviation from the norm.

The considered withdrawal methods are considered one of the most reliable. They will protect your home from leaks, and the aesthetic issue has been resolved - the hose is neatly hidden behind the typewriter or in the kitchen. Simple, harmonious, reliable.

Other ways to connect the washing machine to the sewer

But there are also not quite traditional ways to connect the washing machine - they are extremely simple.

You can throw the hose through:


All you need in this case is a small plastic hook with clips to hold the hose.

Although the method is simple, it cannot be called reliable. Here are a number of disadvantages that you may encounter by choosing it:

  • If the water pressure is strong, the hose may come off and water will flow onto the floor. The hose is attached so weakly that it can be torn off by a careless movement. Also, children or pets can “help” him fall.
  • After each wash cycle, the bathroom, toilet or sink needs to be cleaned and washed.
  • There is no mention of aesthetics. Washing dishes where water has just drained after washing is at least not very hygienic.

Please note! If such a drain suits you, then do not buy a hose longer than 4 meters. If the hose is too long, not all of the water will drain, but remain in the tube, wasting not too pleasant odors.

Now that you know all the schemes for connecting the machine to the sewer pipe, it remains only to choose the appropriate method and easily organize the drain. If you go the traditional way, do not save on components, and then your washing machine will thank you for years of flawless and trouble-free operation.

And the video will help you do everything right:

This article is written for those who are ready to connect the washing machine to the sewer with their own hands. Such a decision, of course, is worthy of respect, but it has its own nuances. I will tell you about 3 options for implementing this simple task.

Preparation is the key to success

Connecting the drain is important, and we will talk about it in great detail, but first I will briefly tell you how to install the washing machine.

Of course, each new unit has detailed instructions, I will not retell it, but will only outline the most important, fundamental points:

  • If the machine was brought into the house from frost, give it a couple of hours to warm up to room temperature. Modern electronics are quite capricious and can fail;
  • Any new unit of this size is equipped with various kinds of seals and stands. They are needed so as not to damage the equipment during transportation. In the washing machine, in addition to the cardboard box itself and the foam seal, there are often a few more supporting wooden bars at the bottom, such a mini-pallet. So it needs to be completely removed;
  • It doesn’t matter if you bought a frontal or vertical machine, the working tank in these units is, figuratively speaking, in limbo. And so that these suspensions do not break off during transportation, the tank is fixed with several rembolts.
    They must be unscrewed, otherwise the device will break at the first start and the warranty will be invalid, since this moment is stipulated in the instructions. By the way, the instructions must have a diagram with the locations of these bolts. The holes from the bolts are plugged with the plugs that come with the kit;

  • The socket must be, as they say now, of the European type, that is, with grounding;
  • At the last stage of preliminary preparation, the legs are screwed in, and the apparatus is set clearly on the horizon. It is desirable to expose with the help of a level.

Do not rush to throw away everything that you removed from the device in preparation. This is especially true for repair bolts for fixing the working tank. After all, perhaps the time will come and you will need to transport it somewhere again.

Since we have to deal with plumbing work, we need to prepare the necessary minimum tool.

As a rule, any good owner always has this minimum somewhere in the pantry.

  • You will definitely need pliers and a pair of high-quality screwdrivers, cross and straight;
  • The above-mentioned repair bolts, in different models of washers, may differ in the configuration of the heads. Therefore, if you do not have a complete set of keys, it is better to take an interest in this moment in the store and immediately buy at least 1 of this key;

  • If a major drain installation is planned, then the sewer pipes may have to be cut to size. Professionals use a pipe cutter for this, but personally, when I encountered such a problem, I cut the pipes with a hacksaw;
  • Of course, gaskets and seals are included with all parts, but I always recommend additionally lubricating these seals with silicone sealant. You don’t need to spend money on a large construction tube with a gun, a small tube is enough.

Drain connection options

Now in stores, for washing machines, you can buy drain hoses of different lengths. So I do not advise you to buy too long a hose. The fact is that the pump that pumps the drains is optimally designed for the length of the hose that comes with the machine.

A relatively safe maximum is 3m. If you put the hose longer, the pump can quickly burn out.

Option number 1: for the lazy and in a hurry

For people who are absolutely far from plumbing, who are in a great hurry to connect a washing machine, there is the easiest way that does not require any financial and labor investments. Now all caring manufacturers equip their units with a semicircular nozzle on the drain hose.

You just need to take this nozzle, put it on the edge of the drain hose and simply throw this "hook" over the side of the sink, bathtub or toilet. But in the literal sense of the word, this option cannot be called a connection; it is rather an alternative way to drain.

In addition, it has a number of unpleasant disadvantages:

  • With constant, active use of the machine, your snow-white plumbing will need to be washed frequently. After all, drains with washing powder eat into acrylic or enamel quite quickly;
  • Small sinks in the bathroom may not withstand strong pressure and large volumes of drains. And while you are watching TV, for example, dirty water from the sink will pour out onto the floor;
  • During draining and spinning, the pump works in jolts and it is possible that, due to these jolts, a light plastic hose will simply jump off the edge of the plumbing. Plus, children or pets can help this hose come off;

For those who are currently suitable for this method of draining, I can recommend tying a plastic nozzle on a hose to a faucet in a bathroom or sink with a chain. On the nozzle there is a special hole for such an attachment.

  • Do not forget that while washing is in progress, at least it will be very inconvenient or even impossible for you to use plumbing for its intended purpose;
  • And then, it's just not pretty.

I think you are convinced that this simple and quick method is suitable only as a temporary option. For those who are used to doing everything in good faith, I suggest considering the following two methods.

Option number 2: connecting to a siphon

Connecting the washing machine to the siphon under the sink is not much more difficult. To do this, you will only need to buy a mixer with an outlet for such a drain and a small three-quarter-inch tightening metal clamp. Moreover, now most mixers already come with such a pipe.

You will need to remove the plug from the outlet pipe and lubricate it with silicone. Then pull the end of the drain hose onto the pipe, with a clamp already put on and tighten the clamp with a screwdriver or pliers.

But there are a couple of drawbacks in this tie-in method, although they are not as radical as in the previous version:

  • Firstly, when the water is drained, a loud gurgling will constantly be heard from the sink, and nothing can be done about it. You may not believe it, but I know from my own experience that there are people who are very annoyed by this;
  • Secondly, it is desirable that the diameter of the sewer drain pipe be at least 50 mm. The fact is that in the kitchen, according to modern standards, it is allowed to install a drain with a diameter of 40 and even 30 mm. And with such a volume, when water is discharged, your drains will rise, and after leaving, leave a dirty sediment at the bottom of the sink.

Option number 3: tie-in to the sewer

Connecting the drain of the washing machine to the sewer directly is considered perhaps the most correct solution. But with this option you have to tinker a little. If you, or the person who installed the sewer in your house, pre-installed a pipe with an extra branch under the drain for the machine, then everything is simple.

You need to buy a rubber o-ring and pull the plug out of this branch. Then lubricate this ring with silicone and insert it into the sewer pipe. Further, the edge of the drain hose from the machine is inserted into the central hole of this sealing ring, only you need to insert it to a depth of no more than 50 mm.

If there is no extra branch from the sewer pipe, then you will have to buy a plastic tee in which this branch is and install it yourself. Don't be scared, it's not scary.

As a rule, the sewer branch that goes to the bathroom and kitchen has a diameter of 50 mm. Next, you will need to decide where exactly the tie-in will take place and replace the tee.

That is, disconnect the siphon pipe, pull out the old pipe, change the rubber gasket and insert a new tee in place of the old pipe. Naturally, after that, put the drain from the siphon in its place and, according to the technology described above (through the rubber ring), cut the drain of the washing machine into the sewer.

Important little things you need to know

Let's start with the fact that the hose from the machine should not lie on the floor. On the back side, in the upper corner of almost any machine, there is a special ring or hook for which the hose should cling after leaving the unit. And from there, the drain is directed to the tie-in into the sewer.

The edge of the drain hose, whether you hang it on the bathroom or cut it into the sewer in another way, must be at least half a meter from the floor level. This requirement is mandatory for all units that do not have a so-called non-return valve.

Many new models are already equipped with such a valve. For all other devices, it must be purchased and installed separately. Do not worry, the price of this important detail, even for the most greedy merchants, does not exceed 100 rubles, and if you walk through the market, you can find it for 60-70 rubles.

Now there are several types of such valves. Personally, I prefer to take models with a locking ball. Below is a general diagram of such a mechanism.

Most often, such valves are used for direct insertion into a sewer pipe. But there are devices for mounting next to the siphon. Moreover, in this case it does not matter at what level this insert occurs, here you can connect to the sewer pipe even at floor level.

I had a case when a friend bought a new washer. And he inserted the drain hose in the same place where the old machine was embedded, that is, in the sewer outlet located under the bath.

The old apparatus worked with this, but for the new one I had to buy a check valve separately. Otherwise, the water from the working tank immediately went into the sewer. Agree, it’s easier to pay a maximum of 100 rubles for a valve and install it in a few minutes than to make a separate new conclusion.

There is a common misconception that supposedly if you bend the drain hose of the washer in the form of the letter “S” and fix it like that, then you can do without a check valve. Do not believe it, you will just make an extra water seal, it will not get worse, but it will also be better.

Conclusion

I told you about options that are designed for different professional skills and financial possibilities. Now you have the right to decide for yourself what suits you best. In the photo and video in this article, this information is shown clearly. If you still have questions on the topic, write them in the comments, I will help in any way I can.

Correct connection of the drain of the washing machine. How to connect the washing machine on your own?

First, consider connecting the washing machine to communication systems. Connect the machine to the cold water supply and install a drain for waste water.

Quite often, in the designs of washing machines, a restriction is set on the minimum and maximum height of the outlet pipe. In order for the washing machine to drain water, it is necessary to connect the water drain system to the sewerage system. Dalle consider washing machine drain connection. An additional siphon should be installed or a nozzle attached to the side of the bathtub or sink.

The fastening must be reliable in order to avoid flooding the apartment when the drain hose falls out.

It is believed that the most modern and convenient drain options are nothing more than connecting a drain hose to a sewer. Please note that it is possible to increase the length of the drain hose, but it has its own length limit, dictated by the maximum power of the drain pump. You can find out the maximum length of the drain hose from the documentation that came with your washing machine.

The drain hose should be attached to the back of the washing machine at a height of approximately 80 centimeters.

Attaching the drain hose

We connect the second end of the hose to the sewerage using a special siphon to avoid unpleasant odors and water from the sewerage from entering the car. It is possible to bend the end of the hose in such a way that a water blockage effect is created, which will also prevent odor and water from entering the machine.

Some craftsmen recommend loosely connecting the drain hose and sewer.

One of the options for connecting the hose to the sewer.

The possible presence of an air gap will avoid the suction of water from the machine into the sewer. This can cause the machine to freeze during certain wash programs. However, such a connection has a serious condition. The height of the air gap should be several centimeters higher than the level of water in the sink or in the bathroom in case of possible clogging of the sewer. Otherwise, there is a rather high probability of flooding the apartment when the drain through the air gap is clogged.

How to connect a washing machine

A new washing machine in the house, how nice, but without communications connected to it, this is just a beautiful cabinet. Connecting a washing machine is not difficult, but if everything is done incorrectly, you can easily get repaired or, even worse, write off a purchase for scrap.

If the desire to save money has overcome the fear of losing your washing machine, read on. The very first thing is not to listen to the exhortation of the sellers that if they do not connect the washing machine, then the guarantee for the machine will be lost. This is a vile lie. The warranty is voided if the washing machine was damaged as a result of incorrect connection, and if everything was done correctly, it does not matter who connected it. Let's go further.

The first thing to think about is electricity. If the house is not a new building, then a standard outlet may not be able to withstand high power consumption, so prepare the outlet in advance. Better a separate outlet from the shield. If the house has an electric stove, you can throw a wire from it. For this, take a three-core cord with a cross section of 1-1.5 mm, the color and type of insulation to taste. In new houses, wires are made mainly to last, so you can be calm here.

The second part of the plumbing. Water is an insidious thing and here one must be extremely careful in choosing materials. Don't skimp here - you'll regret it later. It is best to take faucets and hoses in trusted stores. Large building supermarkets are the most it. They are less likely to run into marriage.

Do not connect the faucet by drilling a hole in the pipe and then crimping it with a special faucet coupling. In practice, such a faucet quickly becomes clogged. Better put a classic tap. The inlet hose should not be very soft. Choose the length of the hose with a margin of 1-1.5 meters, so that in the event of a repair of the washing machine, without disconnecting the hoses, the washing machine can be pulled out without difficulty. The same applies to the drain hose.

Here we smoothly moved on to the drain part. There are two options: connect the washing machine to the siphon or directly to the sewer. Here another ambush awaits you. The siphon is insidious in that if the hose is thrown across the floor, then water can be poured into the washing machine through the drain hose. Therefore, be sure to run the drain hose over the top so that the highest point of it is higher than the water in the sink that the washing machine is connected to.

If the drain hose is connected to the sewer, then be sure to increase the pipe in a vertical direction to a height of 50-60 cm. Otherwise, the water from the machine will go by gravity into the sewer.

If you follow these rules, your washing machine will not soon require you to repair it.

Correct installation of the washing machine

It is very important from the very first days to correctly connect the washing machine to the water supply and electricity. Violation of the installation rules can lead to serious consequences, both for you and for your new "assistant" - a washing machine.

1. Dismantling of packaging and transport units
After the washing machine is delivered to your home, inspect the packaging to make sure that it has not been damaged. Then remove the packaging (cardboard, foam, polyethylene) from all parts of the washing machine. Install the unit in the selected location (bathroom or kitchen). When doing this, take into account the length of the water intake and drain hose, as well as the length of the power cord. If the standard hoses are too short, then you will need to purchase longer hoses for the washing machine from your nearest store.
Now you can remove the transport parts that secure the tank and the rotating elements of the washing machine. those. protect the car during transport.
These parts are usually bolts (most often there are three of them), brackets and bars. It is necessary to make sure that all fasteners are removed, because. turning on the washing machine with the transport units not removed will lead to a quick failure of the washing machine and without the possibility of warranty repairs. The holes from which the bolts have been removed must be plugged with the supplied plastic inserts.
Staples give additional rigidity during transportation, fix the power cord, drain hose.

Sometimes additional fixing transport bars are laid between the body and the tank. To dismantle the bars, you need to tilt the washing machine forward and pull them out.
We recommend that you keep all shipping details, as If you move, you may need them.

2. Connecting the washing machine to the sewer
As already mentioned, washing machines come with a hose of a certain length. The standard distance from the washing machine to the drain is 3 m, only for some washing machines this distance is 5 m. Washing machine manufacturers always determine the possible load on the pump (drain pump) in their washing machines, and in accordance with this they form installation rules. If the distance is increased, the load on the pump will be greater than calculated, and this may lead to a breakdown in the future. The fastening of the drain hose must be secure enough to prevent the hose from falling to the floor and flooding the apartment at the time of draining the water.

When the drain system is permanently connected to the sewer, in order to avoid getting an unpleasant smell from the sewer into the washing machine, you should install a special siphon or bend the end of the hose so that a water blockage is created. It is important to note that this method of connection is NOT RECOMMENDED for houses with worn out sewer pipes, because. they contain a large number of blockages, which can lead to the release of drained water to the outside (on the bathroom floor).

3. Connecting the washing machine to the water supply
The fixed connection of the washing machine is made with a specially supplied flexible hose with a 3/4 inch connection diameter. The hose can be extended to the required length. The connections are sealed with a rubber gasket.
In addition, it is desirable to ensure that the water is shut off when the use of the washing machine is completed. To do this, put an additional valve, which is closed at the end of the wash. It is recommended to give preference to more expensive models of cranes, with a good margin of safety and tight connections.
Adjusting the legs of the washing machine is also an important point.
The washing machine must be stable, without distortion. The floor under the car must not be slippery. A machine that is not designed for installation built into furniture cannot be located inside furniture, otherwise the vibration during the spin cycle will destroy this furniture.
For proper installation, the washing machine has height-adjustable front feet.

4. Connecting the washing machine to the mains
Your safety when using your washing machine is paramount. To ensure safety, it is necessary to connect a neutral or grounding bar with a cross section of at least 3 mm from the switchboard. and the socket will have to be replaced with a three-wire one.
The ground wire must be insulated, it is strictly forbidden to connect it to radiators, water supply systems, gas supply.
To properly connect the washing machine, you need a separate three-wire cable from the meter. In this case, the electric meter must be designed for a rated current of 15 ... 30 A. A separate machine can be placed on this cable. The cable with an external wiring diagram is recommended to be laid in plast channels (plastic profiles). It is safe and aesthetically pleasing.
If, nevertheless, you feel doubts about the correctness of your actions, it is better to contact the appropriate specialist.

Washing machine does not heat water

Temperature is one of the most important components in the operation of a washing machine. If the washing machine does not heat the water, then it will not be able to wash the clothes as needed. Therefore, the presence of temperature must be monitored. So, what are the symptoms and how is it possible to return the missing function to the washing machine.

The main mistake of many users who call us is tactile sensations at the end of the wash. Given that rinsing takes place in cold water, it is not difficult to guess what the temperature of the laundry will be. So such a diagnosis is immediately discarded. But if, during the entire wash, especially the first thirty minutes, the washing machine could not heat the water, at least to room temperature, then it’s time to be wary.

Sometimes the washing machine is simply unable to do this, as it is not connected correctly. This topic was discussed in the article "How to properly connect a washing machine." In short, the machine involuntarily, without the help of a pump, pours the newly poured water into the sewer, and so on ad infinitum. Of course, water is simply not able to heat up.

Another possibility to troubleshoot is to take a close look at the temperature controller. Sometimes the regulator is accidentally set to zero, and as a result, the washing machine does not heat the water, because it clearly follows your instructions.

The last symptom is the most common. The washing machine, after working for the first 10-15 minutes, stops and stays in this state until the owners realize it. In 99% of cases, the heating element or, in other words, the heating element is to blame. Here, most likely, you will have to contact a washing machine repair company. It can't be done without replacing it.

How to connect the washing machine on your own?

Installing and connecting the washing machine yourself is not very difficult for someone who knows how to work with an electrical panel, wires and plumbing hoses.

(I am writing this post for retail buyers of craftsmen and for sellers of washers, because only that seller inspires confidence in the buyer in his stories when selling, who is a real master practitioner, and not a glamorous theorist.)

To get started, in addition to the washing machine, buy:

1) a socket with grounding more than 16 amperes, preferably rubberized from dampness;

2) a piece of a three-core cable with a cross section of about 4 mm2 (by eye - with a pencil thick) and so long. how far is the source of current and ground from your washing machine - more precisely from its personal outlet. Such a source can be an electric stove socket, if you have one in your house, or a distributing electrical panel on the site on the floor;

In no case do not save on cable and grounding - they will protect your health and life.

3) Buy a faucet on the toilet tank to connect the washing machine - sellers in the markets know. what it is;

4) buy a longer inlet hose than the one that was sold to you in the kit (take into account the distance from the toilet to the washing machine. Buy a high-quality hose - do not save, otherwise you will then repair the neighbor’s apartment from below and remember your wrong savings.

5) And also buy a new toilet inlet hose in a good braid in advance. They are often in their 40s. (Usually when a washer is installed, the old hose is torn and broken).

6) Buy a packet switch plug from 25 amperes, through which you separately power the washer and if you have old wiring, buy an RCD (this is the same batch plug - a switch on the current line in a wet room, but it protects not the device, but the person - if the current leaves somewhere in the wiring and can strike - then this RCD will turn off);

7) purchase an additional drain hose and an adapter for it, as long as your washer with its short drain hose is from the dirty water drain point - that is, from the bathroom, if you “dirty” drain over the edge or from the sink siphon,

8) which is also a good idea to buy for a clean and quiet drain - such a new three-horn siphon for connecting a drain from a washing machine ..

They brought you a washing machine home - what to do next to install it and start washing?

1) Measure the voids on the sides of the washing machine - will the washing machine not hit neighboring objects and furniture during the spin cycle and make a gap of at least 1 cm.

2) See if it will be convenient to open the hatch and load laundry (both on the front and on the vertical).

3) Unscrew the transport bolts and transport brackets (if present). Keep these items if re-shipment is possible.

4) Align the washer on the building bubble level so that it does not beat during the spin cycle. Place the washer only on a firm, non-swinging floor. Align it by twisting the legs.

5) Connect electricity and grounding through a previously purchased cable, a bag and an outlet from a shield from a platform in a house with gas stoves or from an electric stove outlet. Find out in advance in Zhek whether there is grounding in the house on the shield. You can protect yourself from electric shock in a bathroom with old wiring by installing an RCD on the wiring line. An RCD is a bag-plug-like device that turns off the power to the device if the current goes into water or objects in a humid room.

6) Connect the washer to the water through the inlet hose and the tap to the toilet tank - at the point where its native inlet hose enters it.

7) Connect the washer to a new triple drain siphon, which is screwed to the sink through a hose (or lead the drain through the “goose” to the edge of the bathroom.

Be sure to secure the beginning of the drain hose in the upper eye at the back of the machine - otherwise it will fill in and immediately drain the water.

8) Open the water inlet valve for pouring into the washing machine (after washing, make it a habit to close it, and be sure to leave the house when you leave the house). Many people forget to do this - then the hose will drip, burst and the neighbors below are all flooded. Or buy an inlet hose with a hydrostop in advance, but this is not a cheap pleasure.

9) Lay the laundry, pour in the powder (necessarily powder automatic - on the box or package it is written AUTOMATIC and an automatic machine is drawn) select the program and turn on the washer. If the washer hits hard, knocks and jumps, then you have not unscrewed all the transport bolts or you have little or a lot of laundry. Check if the washer has a tilt. Check if everything is connected correctly.

When properly installed, the washing machine should run smoothly and not very loudly and in no case should the drum beat.

All this installation is available only to experienced craftsmen. My advice to you, if you are not very qualified, then it is better to call the installation wizard. It is not very expensive, but it will be done faster and more reliably.

Washing machine is electric

Everyone knows that a washing machine is a device of increased danger, and we often find out about this when we were well shaken by an electric current. On the one hand, touching the washing machine during operation is undesirable.

If the washing machine is in your bathroom when it is running, you definitely cannot swim. So the age-old question arises: “What to do?”. I understand perfectly well that our articles help people who, for a number of reasons, cannot call the master, and therefore, in this case, here are a few recommendations.

The washing machine is shocked when the appliance, which is grounded to the housing, fails. If your washing machine began to beat with current, first of all it is worth checking the following devices:

engine,
heater (heater),
network filter,
pump (rare)
command apparatus (rare).

Checking the possibility of a leak is also quite simple. Arm yourself with a tester, turn it on for a dial tone. Remove all connectors from the device you want to test and put one end of the tester on the ground (where the yellow-green wire was), and with the second, ring all the contacts on the device one by one. If at least one of them showed resistance, then it is because of this device that the machine beats with current. The device must be changed or eliminated, such as a surge protector.

How to organize the proper care and maintenance of the washing machine?

Do not place heavy objects or stand on top of the washing machine.
Do not lean or lean against the loading hatch.
Do not allow children to use the washing machine on their own.
Do not leave pets unattended near the washing machine.
It is not recommended to open the detergent drawer during washing. This may result in water overflow.
It is recommended to leave the loading door open after each wash to avoid moisture build-up.
After each wash, it is recommended to turn off the water supply valve to the machine.
Do not turn the program selector anti-clockwise!
Do not reset the washing program after the machine has started washing. This can interfere with the automatics of the machine and cause damage.
The body and parts of the washing machine must be periodically wiped with a cloth dampened with a detergent solution.
Do not wash the washing machine with a spray bottle or under running water.
Do not use chemical solvents or abrasive scouring powders for cleaning.
Before washing the washing machine, you must unplug it from the mains.
The detergent container is removed from the machine and washed under running warm water.
If limescale has formed (due to incorrect dosage of detergent, heavily soiled water, etc.), you can clean the washing machine with a limescale remover. In this case, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for the agent used, since such agents contain acids. If the washing machine is not thoroughly treated after cleaning, acid residues deposited on machine parts can cause discoloration of the laundry and even damage to machine parts.
To clean the drum from rust stains that are left by metal objects caught in the drum, we recommend using cleaning agents that do not contain chlorine.
The condition of the hose should be checked once a year. If any signs of damage are noticed, the hose must be replaced. When the washing machine is running, the hose is under high pressure and may burst if damaged.
After washing items made of fluffy materials, it is necessary to clean the filter of the suction pump.
Before cleaning, make sure that the wash is finished and unplug the machine from the mains.
When the filter is removed, a small amount of water may appear, so it is necessary to prepare a container to collect water in advance.

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The inlet hose is the product on which your peace of mind and the safety of repairs in the apartment of the neighbors below depend. The fact is that the inlet hose sold with the washing machine does not always have the right length. It may have a poorly compressed compression sleeve, a reinforcing film of polyester threads may have breaks. The upper layers of low-quality PVC can burst at any time and provoke a spill of water. In this regard, the inlet hose for the washing machine must meet a number of stringent requirements so as not to let the consumer down.

Types of inlet hoses

The inlet hose for the washing machine is PVC tube, reinforced with a nylon braid with nuts and fittings, one side of which is connected to the water supply system of a private house or apartment, and the other to a washing machine. Nuts and fittings are made of plastic and must be tightened by hand or they may crack. At the junction of the fitting with the pipe, a high-quality inlet hose has pressed metal sleeves. Each product is marked with numbers indicating the working pressure and temperature. Standard inlet hose withstands pressure at 4 Bars. To prevent the hose from expanding under the pressure of water, its base is wrapped with several layers of reinforced threads. Inlet hoses for washing machines are:

  • with a fixed length of 1-5 m;
  • in the bay (length up to 10 m);
  • telescopic hoses, which due to the corrugated wave, the hose increases in length;
  • hoses with the Aqua-stop system that protect the washing machine from leaks;

About the system Aqua stop must be told separately. The fact is that during the supply of water to the washing machine, a lot of pressure acts on the hose, so it may not withstand and burst, flooding the neighbors and damaging the property in the apartment. Aqua system - stop will not allow it. It is a double inlet hose that can withstand pressure up to 70 bar, with a knob filled with a special powder or equipped with a solenoid valve.

If the hose suddenly breaks, water begins to flow into the knob. The powder expands, thereby blocking the flow of water from the tap. Or the valve works and shuts off the flow of water. Valve control sensors are securely hidden under the outer sheath of the flexible hose. The sheath envelops the entire hose up to its end inside the washing machine. Even if the hose breaks at the very exit, the water will still not flow out, but will be collected in a special tray located at the bottom of the washing machine. The tray is equipped with a sensitive float that, when water appears, rises and closes the contacts of the microswitch. In addition, the valve is activated when the working tank is full, the pipeline of the machine is damaged, or foam climbs due to an overdose of washing powder. outside the working tank out.

In some models, the Aqua-stop system is equipped with emergency pump, which begins to pump out water in case of failure of the emergency valve. It is worth saying that the inlet hose with the Aqua-stop system operates only once in the event of an accident. Once the system has been triggered, the hose cannot be reused and must be disposed of. However, maybe this case will help you. avoid flood and great material damage yourself and your neighbors. The inlet hose with the Aqua-stop system is sold in the same department as household appliances. Every self-respecting brand produces for its washing machines, in addition to conventional hoses, hoses with the Aqua-stop system. With such a hose, you can not be afraid that flooding will occur in your absence.

Specifications for inlet hoses

Manufacturing firm Specifications Producing country Length Price
Uglich Polymer Plant
  • Suitable for all famous foreign brands
  • temperature can be adjusted up to 90 0 C and pressure up to 200 bar
  • withstands a stretch of 2000 Newton
  • the hose is safe for human health
Russia 3m 66 rubles
Cotali UDI-BLACK
  • maximum operating temperature 100 0 C
  • withstands pressure up to 80 bar
  • throughput 42 liters/min
  • set includes 2 gaskets ¾
Italy 2 m 358 rubles
Electrolux
  • has an Aqua-stop security system
  • maximum pressure 60 bar
  • maximum operating temperature 90 0 C
Sweden 1.5 m 806 rubles
reflex
  • two-layer system
  • built-in leak protection
  • operating pressure up to 20 bar
  • special nuts against spontaneous loosening of the hose
  • operating temperature +5-+25 0 С
Italy 1.5 m 165 rubles
SCANPART 11.200.901.23
  • withstands pressure up to 90 bar
  • suitable for cold water supply
Germany 2.5 m 599 rubles
CODO
  • metal braid
  • metal sleeve
Russia 1.5 m 155 rubles

How to connect the inlet hose to the washing machine?

With regard to the length of the inlet hose, there is only one limitation: that the total total length from the hose to the drain did not exceed 15 meters. This means that the maximum length of the inlet hose must not exceed 3 m. Otherwise, the load on the drain pump will be too great and it may break. The inlet hose has a standard ¾ inch thread and connects to a stopcock. An eyeliner to plastic water pipes cuts easily and simply. In new houses and during major repairs, a place for installing a faucet for a washing machine is designed in advance.

If the house has not been overhauled, and the water pipes are not designed to connect the washing machine, then in this case the inlet hose is installed in front of the bath faucet or screwed onto the float valve of the drain tank. For this:

  • unscrew the flexible water supply hose from the float valve;
  • wind on the inlet-faucet;
  • a flexible hose is attached to it.

To seal on the thread of the outlet of the float valve, wind FUM tape. If the inlet hose is attached to the faucet, then the faucet itself is removed, and a tap for connecting to the washing machine is screwed onto the eccentric with cold water, and a coupling is screwed onto the eccentric with hot water. On top of this, the mixer itself is installed. Of course, this is not the best option, but you never know, it will also come in handy. There are even special taps for connection to float valves toilet bowls, as well as wall-mounted faucets.

The drain hose, as well as the inlet hose, are included in the kit. It serves to drain the water used during washing into the sewer drain. However, the length of the hose offered for the washing machine does not always allow you to reach the drain, so consumers demand drain hoses no less than inlet hoses. They have branch pipes at both ends, and such a hose can be stretched in length. Branch pipes provide hermetic connection at the junctions. Drain hoses do not have technical characteristics and are designed only for the natural pressure of the drained water. The material for their manufacture is rubber, which, under the influence of hot water and detergents, chemicals and bleaches, cracks and bursts, despite the reinforcement with a wire spiral.

How to connect the drain hose?

Using a plastic guide, the drain hose is attached to the edge of an acrylic bathtub or sink. You can use a siphon from the washbasin as a drain, or buy special double siphon with an additional outlet for the drain hose of the washing machine. If you do not have enough hose length to drain the water, then this situation is easy to fix. It is necessary to purchase a plastic extension cord, another drain hose and two clamps. The hose coming out of the washing machine is inserted into the plastic extension and the second hose is inserted on the other side of the extension. Both hoses are secured with clamps. Everything, an elongated hose can be connected to the sewer.

Replacing the drain hose is easier than replacing the inlet hose. This is due to the fact that in order to get to the base of the drain hose, you need to disassemble the washing machine a little and climb inside it. Some brands of washing machines have a drain hose attached to the top of the cabinet, while others have a drain hose attached to the bottom. To find out what the connection is in your washing machine, you need to remove the cover of the washing machine. Although some brands, such as AEG, Siemens and Bosch, need put away front of the body .

However, let's focus on replacing the drain hose through the back of the case, as is done with the brands Indesit, Ariston, LG, Candy, Ardo, Beko, Samsung, Whirpool. For these models, the drain hose is located at the bottom of the rear case cover. After removing the panel (this is done easily):

The replacement of the drain hose is completely different in models where the hose is located along the front panel.

We get dispenser container. Then we remove the plinth panel, loosen the clamp that fixes the door cuff, and unfasten the cuff from the door wall. Then the drain pump filter is removed (you also need to prepare a rag and a bucket beforehand). After the residual water flows out, remove front end panels. For this, screws are twisted with a screwdriver. The bottom of the wall of the panel must be moved towards itself until a gap of 5 cm is formed. We put our hand in there and look for hatch blocking device. From it we detach the connector with wires. After that, pull the panel towards you and remove it.

Before us opened access to the drain hose. The fixing elements are removed from it, and the hose is disconnected from the pump. Note the location of the hose and fittings. Disconnect and remove the hose. We connect a new hose, fix it and assemble the machine, after checking the tightness of the hose connection to the pump.

Top-loading washing machines have a drain hose on the side. To replace it, you need to do all the steps that were described in previous cases, only the side panel, not the back or front panel, is removed.

Drain hoses for washing machines

Manufacturing firm Specifications Producing country Length Price
Uglich Polymer Plant
  1. made of thermoplastic material
  2. temperature can be adjusted from -20 0 С to 90 0 С
  3. inner diameter 19 mm
  4. corrugated braid
Russia 3m 77 rubles
Orio
  1. telescopic hose
  2. made of polypropylene
  3. has elastic fittings at the ends
Russia 3.6 m 60 rubles
helfer
  1. operating pressure 10 bar
  2. maximum operating temperature 80 0 C
Germany 2,5 190 rubles
VIR Plast
  1. working pressure 0.95 MPa
  2. maximum operating temperature 96 0 C
Russia 4 m 71 ruble
TSG
  1. connection diameter 18-22 mm
  2. high quality fittings
Italy 2 m 110 rubles

Video of connecting hoses to a washing machine

Before buying a new washing machine, we always carefully select the place where it will stand. But after the machine is installed and you need to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer and water supply, it may turn out that the hoses are short. Today we will talk about what to do in a situation if the drain hose is short. How to extend the drain hose in the washing machine in such a situation? In fact, everything is simple and you should not worry, because you can do it yourself, without disassembling the washing machine.

Drain hose extension for washing machine

Washing machine manufacturers put standard drain hoses about 1.5 meters long on their products. In most cases, this is enough, and if you plan the sewer supply to the washing machine correctly or install a hidden siphon for the washing machine, then there should be no problems with the length of the standard hose. But it often happens that the hose is too short, or the sewer pipe is too far away and the standard length is not enough. What to do in such a situation?

In order for the drain hose to become longer, there are two ways that are difficult to implement:

Method one: you can buy a longer one piece hose and replace the whole hose. But in this case, you will need to tinker a bit and unscrew some parts of the washing machine. In some models of washing machines, this is easier to do, in some you even have to remove the front wall. Therefore, this option for extending the drain hose is not very convenient and is not suitable for many. And why actually mess around, if you can make everything much easier.

Method two: You can simply buy an additional hose for the washing machine and a connector in the store. With the help of which to lengthen the drain. It is this method that we will consider in more detail.

Choosing the length of the drain hose

You can buy a drain hose for a washing machine at almost any plumbing store or home appliance store. To do this, first measure the missing length of the new hose. To do this, take a tape measure and figure out how the hose will go from the machine to the sewer itself. Measure so that the tape measure is free. The hose should not be tightly connected, so leave a small margin.

In the store you can find drain hoses of various lengths: 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m, 3.5m, 4m, 5m and even modular drain hose.

Modular hose is a large coil of hose, which is divided into modules of 0.5 meters. You can order any required length in multiples of 0.5 meters, and the seller will simply unwind the required length and cut it off.

In our case, the best option would be to buy a hose with a fixed length, since it is much easier to find it in a store.
Attention: Do not try to buy the hose of the longest possible length. The drain pump needs much more effort to pump water over a longer distance. In general, you should not make a drain hose with a total length of more than 3.5 meters.

Once we have decided on the length of the hose, we need a special connector that will allow us to join the two ends of the drain hoses. It is a small plastic tube, on which both ends of the hose are put on and tightened with clamps.

Washing machine drain hose clamps can be purchased at any auto parts store. The dimensions of the clamps should be 16×27mm. I would like to separately note that the ends of one drain hose come in two different diameters. One is 19mm in diameter, the other 22mm. It is common to connect the thin end coming from the washing machine to the thicker end of the extension hose, using connectors with 19 x 22mm carved diameters at the ends. But if you connect the ends of hoses with the same diameter, then there is a 22x22mm connector.

You can make a connector from any plastic tube of the appropriate diameter. It will serve exactly the same as the purchased one. Don't forget to secure it with a clamp.

Extending the drain hose

Let's check again if we have everything to make the washing machine drain longer:

  • Extension hose
  • Connector
  • Clamps
  • Screwdriver

If we have all this in stock, then we get to work. First, put the clamps on both hoses, then insert the end of the hose coming from the washing machine into the connector. After that, insert the other hose into the second end of the connector.

Now we tighten the clamp with a screwdriver, do not overdo it. It is enough just to fix the hose so that it does not slip off the connector.

After you have extended the drain hose, you can connect it to the sewer and run a test wash.
When draining the washing machine, make sure that there are no leaks at the connection. But we are sure that everything turned out well for you and nothing will flow. Recall that clogging of the drain system will entail