Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of pvc pipes. We build a greenhouse from PVC pipes with our own hands Greenhouse from PVC pipes: the pros and cons of the material

The greenhouse is not only decoration suburban area but also guarantee good harvest especially in temperate latitudes. Prices for industrial greenhouses are quite high, and standard design not suitable for all gardeners.

In this case, it is easier and cheaper to assemble a greenhouse with your own hands from improvised materials, for example, from plastic pipes.

The classification of greenhouses is quite complicated: they can differ in form, seasonality, the presence and type of heating, the material used for the frame and shelter.

For the manufacture of PVC pipes, the simplest and most reliable designs are suitable, including:

wall-mounted greenhouse;
gable, in the form of a house;
polygonal, co complex shape stingrays;
arched, with a frame in the form of a semicircle.

Wall greenhouses usually attached to the southern or southwestern wall of a house or other premises. At the same time, the wall plays the role of a thermomass: heating up during the day, it gives off heat at night, which reduces the average daily temperature fluctuations, and also protects from cold northern winds.

In wall greenhouses, a microclimate favorable for plants is created, and the cost is lower than that of stand-alone models. The main disadvantage of this design is the constant exposure of the wall to moisture and the lack of good ventilation, which can lead to the destruction of the wall material.

Gable design- one of the most convenient and popular. This is explained by the strength of the frame and its resistance to snow and wind loads. The reflection coefficient of gable greenhouses is low, most of the sun's rays penetrate inside, which increases the efficiency of lighting. By increasing the angle of inclination of the slopes, it is possible to achieve snow melting in winter time, and the greenhouse does not have to be raked.

Gable greenhouses are equipped with one or two doors, as well as vents for ventilation. The side walls of gable greenhouses can be either strictly vertical or inclined. In the second case, the illumination in the greenhouse in the morning and evening hours will be higher, which is important for temperate latitudes.

polygonal design greenhouses almost repeats the shape of the arch due to several planes that form slopes and walls. Due to this, the internal space increases and at the same time the main disadvantage of arched greenhouses is compensated - large ratio reflections of the sun's rays.

It is difficult to assemble a polygonal greenhouse from pipes with your own hands due to the large number connecting nodes, so it is usually made from metal pipes by welding or from a profile for drywall, assembling the frame on self-tapping screws.

- perhaps one of the most common designs, and this is easily explained: it is distinguished by strength and stability, a minimum number of connecting nodes and a large internal space. You can make it from almost any type of pipe, choosing any size and height.

The disadvantages of arched greenhouses include increased accumulation of snow on the roof in winter and a large reflection coefficient from the inclined plane of the film or polycarbonate.

Partial reflection compensate correct installation greenhouses - from north to south. With this arrangement, the side walls are illuminated by the morning and evening sun, and the rays hit the walls of the greenhouse almost at right angles. During the day, when the sun is high, it illuminates the south pediment and roof, where the refraction of the rays is not so strong.

Snow accumulation is dealt with in three ways:

regular cleaning;
dismantling the film or the entire greenhouse for the winter;
changing shape to a lancet arch.

Lancet-shaped greenhouses have a more stable structure, and their increased height has a beneficial effect on the microclimate: hot superheated air accumulates at the top and does not depress the plants. At the same time, the consumption of material and the planting area do not differ from those of conventional arched greenhouses.

PVC pipes and methods for their connection

PVC pipes are designed for installation of cold water supply systems and can be operated at temperatures up to +65 degrees. Due to the flexibility and a wide variety of connecting elements, it is easy to assemble a greenhouse of any configuration from them.

For greenhouses, PVC pipes with a diameter of 20 to 32 mm are used, they provide the necessary frame rigidity. The standard length of pipes can be 1, 2, 3 or 6 meters.

There are several ways to connect PVC pipes for a greenhouse:

with the help of clamps, screeds;
on furniture bolts through pre-drilled holes;
on glue.

When connecting pipes to clamps or bolts, the greenhouse can be completely disassembled and moved to another place, ensuring crop rotation. In this way, film greenhouses and greenhouses are more often mounted. The film is usually removed for the winter in order to avoid damage by snow and wind, at the same time the frame is dismantled.

The adhesive connection is non-separable, but more durable. It is recommended to use it for greenhouses installed on the foundation and left for the winter. Such greenhouses are covered, as a rule, - it serves at least 5-7 years and does not require annual replacement.

Connecting elements for PVC pipes used in the installation of the greenhouse:

corners, allow the fastening of mutually perpendicular elements;
tees- connect three pipes in the same plane or at an angle (one-plane tees can have an angle of 45, 66 and 90 degrees);
crosses, for connecting four pipe elements.

The number and type of fittings used depend on the design of the greenhouse, as well as the type of connection chosen.

Prices for PVC pipes

pvc pipes

The procedure for connecting pipes and fittings with glue

The connection is made with Tangit PVC-U glue from the Henkel company or its equivalent. This adhesive provides a strong fastening of parts and quickly hardens, so installation does not take much time.

Prices for Tangit PVC Kleber

Sequencing.

Cut the pipe to the required length with a cutter, hacksaw or construction scissors. Check the compatibility of the pipe and the fitting: the pipe must go into it by 2/3 of the length of the socket.
Clean the edges of burrs, chamfer the end with a knife.
Degrease the surfaces to be joined with any solvent. Apply adhesive to both surfaces to be bonded: the pipe and the inner surface of the fitting.
Insert the pipe into the fitting strictly along its axis by 2/3 of the depth until it stops, then turn it 90 degrees inside the fitting so that the adhesive is evenly distributed.
Fix them in this position for 15-30 seconds, then wait another 1-2 minutes until complete bonding.

The procedure for connecting pipes to bolts

Furniture bolts with a diameter of M6 or M8 are chosen as fasteners, depending on the diameter of the pipes. The length must be sufficient to connect two pipes.

Sequencing.

In pipes, prior to installation, mark places for drilling holes.
Through holes are drilled with a drill 2 mm larger than the diameter of the bolts.
Connect the pipes by aligning the holes. Insert and tighten bolts.

Holes can also be drilled in place, while the pipe is temporarily fixed to a wire tie or otherwise fixed.

Calculation of the necessary materials

First you need to decide on the shape and size of the greenhouse (length, width and height). As a rule, two beds are located in the greenhouse, separated by a passage. The width of the beds usually varies between 0.8-1.1 meters - this allows you to plant two rows of plants at the required interval and provide convenient access to them.

The width of the passage should be such that you can walk freely with buckets and other garden tool, including the wheelbarrow. Usually the path is made 0.6-0.8 m wide. As a result, the width of the greenhouse will be 2.2-3 m.

The length of the greenhouse depends on your needs and the placement rate. vegetable crops that you plan to grow in it. Planting rates per 1 m 2 of the greenhouse area are given in table 1.

Table 1. Norms for planting vegetables in a greenhouse.

culture	Number of roots per 1 m2
	2-4
	1-2
	4-6
	2-4
	4-6
	2-4

Based on these standards, determine the length of the greenhouse. Usually the length is 3-6 meters - it is not advisable to install a smaller greenhouse, and for longer structures it is better to use more durable materials and capital construction technologies.

Note! If you plan to use polycarbonate as a greenhouse cover, choose a length that is a multiple of the width of the sheets (2 meters). This way you avoid unnecessary cuts.

The height of the greenhouse should allow you to move freely in it, in addition, at least 50 cm of free space should remain above the plants - hot air accumulates there and air is exchanged during ventilation. For undersized crops - peppers, eggplants, undersized tomatoes - a height of 1.8-2.0 meters is enough. For tall crops, the height of the greenhouse should be at least 2.2-2.4 meters.

One more important parameter for arched greenhouse from pipes - the length of the arc, which is found by the formula:

Here L is the length of the pipe for the arc, m; h is the height of the greenhouse, m; B is the width of the greenhouse, m. Table 2 shows the dimensions L for the most commonly used greenhouse sizes.

Table 2. Arc length for greenhouses of standard sizes.

Width	h = 1.8 m	h = 2.0 m	h = 2.2 m	h = 2.4 m
B = 2.2 m	3,1	3,5	3,8	4,1
B = 2.4 m	3,4	3,8	4,1	4,5
B = 2.6 m	3,7	4,1	4,5	4,9
B=2.8m	4,0	4,4	4,8	5,3
B = 3.0 m	4,2	4,7	5,2	5,7

To calculate materials, it is also necessary to determine the step between the arches. If you plan to remove the cover from the greenhouse for the winter, it is enough to place the arches in 0.8-1 meter increments. For a non-separable structure, the step should be reduced to 0.5-0.7 meters - this will protect the greenhouse from deformation under the influence of snow.

It is necessary to take into account the material for the manufacture of longitudinal ties, end walls, doors and vents. The total length of the longitudinal ties can be calculated by multiplying the length of the greenhouse by the number of ties. Usually there are at least five of them: two lower, two side and ridge. To strengthen the structure, you can use additional side ties.

Pipes will be needed on the end walls overall length 15-20 m. About 5 meters of pipe are needed for each door, 2-2.5 meters for a window leaf. For convenience, you can make a detailed sketch, which shows all the dimensions, as well as the number of connecting elements.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling an arched greenhouse

Below is a step-by-step instruction for assembling a greenhouse from PVC pipes with the following dimensions:

width - 2.4 m;
height - 2.0 m.
length - 4 m.

According to table 2, the length of the arc is determined - it is 3.8 m. PVC pipes of a standard length of 6 m with a diameter of 25 mm are used for the frame. Such pipes will provide the structure with reliability and rigidity. To connect the pipes, standard 25 mm fittings and a glue connection are used.

For a greenhouse of the indicated dimensions with two doors and vents and with an arch spacing of 67 cm, you will need:

PVC pipe L=6 m, Ø25 mm - 16 pieces;
single-plane cross Ø25 - 5 pieces;
tee one-plane angle 90 degrees Ø25– 28 pieces;
tee one-plane angle 45 degrees Ø25– 4 pieces;
two-plane tee Ø25 - 4 pieces;
corner 90 degrees Ø25 - 16 pieces;
self-tapping screws or furniture bolts for attaching side ties - 36 pieces;
two-arm clamps - 18 pieces, 55 mm self-tapping screws for them - 36 pieces.
door hinges - 8 pieces, 24 mm screws for them - 48 pieces;
polycarbonate - 3 sheets measuring 2x6 meters;
self-tapping screws for fixing polycarbonate with a thermal washer - 100 pieces;
connecting profile for polycarbonate or construction tape.

A film can also be used as a cover for the greenhouse, it will need about 8 linear meters with a width of 6 m.

Ground leveling and foundation installation

To avoid distortion of the structure during installation and operation, the area under the greenhouse must first be leveled. To do this, mark the location of the future greenhouse on the ground with the help of pegs and twine and check the site for level. With a slope of more than 1 degree, the site must be leveled. Under the foundation, it is recommended to make a sand cushion 5-10 cm thick.

As a foundation for greenhouses, a wooden beam with a section of 10x10 cm is traditionally used. It provides load distribution and lasts at least 10-15 years, while it is inexpensive, and its installation does not take much time.

Step 1. The beam is sawn to the size of the greenhouse, impregnated with an antiseptic for lower rims log house or waste oil and dried. It is more convenient to treat with an antiseptic using a sprayer.

Step 2 They assemble the foundation on the site for the greenhouse, laying out the timber on a sand cushion or auxiliary brick posts, while using a level. Check the dimensions, as well as the diagonals - when correct styling they must be equal.

Step 3 Connect the bars with the help of metal corners and self-tapping screws. With insufficient length of the bars, they are fastened with brackets. For better adhesion to the ground, metal pins are used - lugs. All fasteners must have a protective coating, it is best to take galvanized elements. After installing the foundation, they can be additionally painted or varnished.

Step 4 Sand is poured around the perimeter of the foundation, finally fixing it. At the same time, you can immediately make paths in the greenhouse and fencing the ridges.

Assembling the frame of the greenhouse

The assembly of the frame begins with the preparation of the necessary pipe sections. After cutting to size, it is better to sign them with a marker so as not to get confused.

For the described design, you will need:

pipe segments 400 cm long - 2 or 4 pieces;
pipe segments 190 cm long - 10 pieces;
pipe segments 180 cm long - 4 pieces;
pipe segments 140 cm long - 4 pieces;
pipe segments 76 cm long - 8 pieces;
pipe segments 65 cm long - 18 pieces;
pipe segments 46 cm long - 4 pieces;
pipe segments 10 cm long - 4 pieces.

The remaining elements, including the frame of doors, vents and end ties, are cut out in place during the installation process.

Step 1. Pipes for five intermediate arches 190 cm long are glued in pairs using crosses. In the illustration, the connection points are highlighted in blue.

Step 2 The end arches are connected according to the scheme of four pipe sections and three tees. Two pipe sections of 140 cm each form side arcs that are attached to the tees with an angle of 45 degrees so that when the arch is bent into an arc, the free sockets of the tees are directed downwards - the doorway pillars will be attached to them. Pipe segments 46 cm long are connected to a 90 degree tee, then the parts are combined into general design, while the side flare of the 90 degree tee must be directed perpendicular to the axis of the 45 degree tees.

Step 3 Two lower side ties are assembled from six pieces of pipe 65 cm long and five single-plane tees per tie. The conclusions of the tees are directed strictly in one direction - arcs will be attached to them.

Step 4 Two end ties are assembled from three pieces of pipe 76 cm and two single-plane tees for each tie.

Step 5 Collect doorways according to the scheme. Pipe sections 1.8 m long are fixed in the lower tees, then they are connected using tees and jumpers 76 cm long. Pipe sections about 10 cm long are glued to the tees - the continuation of the racks. Later they are cut to size when connected to the arch.

Step 6 Assemble end walls. Connect the end ties and end arches with the help of tees and racks, as well as two-plane tees in the lower part. The pipes at the top of the racks are cut to size.

Step 7 Assemble the frame of the greenhouse on the foundation. One end arch is installed and connected to the lower screeds. The first intermediate arch is installed in tees on the lower screeds and connected to the end arch using a 65 cm long jumper. All intermediate arches are successively fixed. A second end wall is installed, connecting it to the upper and lower side ties. For stability during assembly, temporary wire ties can be used.

Step 8 Check the diagonals of the frame, align it if necessary. The frame is fixed to the beam using metal two-blade clamps and self-tapping screws.

Step 9 Install side straps. They are attached to furniture bolts at a height of about 1.4-1.6 meters on both sides from the inside of the greenhouse. For greater rigidity, additional longitudinal ties can be fixed. The location of the bolts is marked with red crosses.

Step 10 Assemble doors and vents in accordance with the scheme of pipe scraps, tees and corners. Attach vents to door frames on hinges with self-tapping screws. Attach the hinges to the door frame.

Step 11 Fasten doors with hinges in doorways. Install end screeds from pipes according to the scheme, fixing them to furniture bolts. The attachment point is marked with red crosses.

Alternative option - no kink design

Polycarbonate mount

Polycarbonate - comparatively new material, which has received wide recognition from summer residents.

It has many advantages:

good light transmission ability;
double-layer honeycomb structure that retains heat well;
sufficient mechanical strength;
resistance to UV rays;
simple and fast installation;
service life of at least 5 years.

Disadvantages of polycarbonate:

reflects the sun's rays more strongly than glass and film;
resistant to scratches and point impacts, requires careful handling;
with improper installation, moisture and dirt accumulate inside, from which the material fades.

To extend the service life, polycarbonate must be installed strictly according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

Three important factors to consider:

polycarbonate is fixed so that moisture can drain along the inner longitudinal stripes;
one of the sides of the polycarbonate has a protective UV coating; during installation, the sheets must be placed with this side up;
fastening is carried out on special self-tapping screws with a thermal washer along pre-drilled holes, otherwise the sheets will lead when heated.

Sequencing.

Step 1. Remove the protective film from the polycarbonate and mark the upper side with a marker (on it protective film usually colored or has a manufacturer's logo). It is better to make several marks on each sheet.

Step 2 Cut out polycarbonate for end walls. For this standard sheet cut into three pieces measuring 2x2 meters. One part is applied to the end of the greenhouse so that the cavities are directed vertically. The left side of the sheet is aligned along the left edge and the contours of the arc are outlined with a marker to the left post and down along it. Apply the right edge of the sheet to the right side of the end and do the same. As a result, the contours of two semi-arches are obtained on the sheet. They are cut out with a mounting knife or a jigsaw with a small allowance of 3-5 cm. The same is done with the second end.

Step 3 The cut parts are fixed on self-tapping screws with thermal washers using a screwdriver. The fastening step is 30-50 cm. At the same time, they try not to pinch the polycarbonate. Trim excess polycarbonate with a knife.

Step 4 The third piece of the sheet is used for sheathing doors and vents. The sheet is applied to the doors, observing verticality. They circle the doors with a margin, cut out blanks and attach them to the doors and vents. From the remnants of polycarbonate, an arch is cut out above the door, closed. Polycarbonate at the joints is best connected using special profiles.

A greenhouse on a suburban area is not only its decoration, but also allows you to get a crop of organic vegetables for the whole family.

To achieve this goal, a do-it-yourself PVC greenhouse is ideal. Not always standard designs offered by the market are suitable for the site in size and shape.

One of the popular ways to arrange this simple structure is to make it yourself. For this, various materials, designs, installation methods are used.

Don't need a greenhouse? We suggest that you read the article -.

Types of greenhouses

Devices for organizing closed ground can differ significantly from each other. It depends on many factors, including the shape of the structure, materials for its manufacture, seasonality of use, the presence of heating and its type.

At use of PVC pipes usually fit the following designs:

wall-mounted - the structure is adjacent to one or two walls of a building, residential or technical;
a greenhouse with two slopes in the shape of a house;
polygonal, having broken roof;
arched - with a rounded dome.

Wall buildings

Usually they are installed against the wall on the southwest or south side of the building. In this case, it is, as it were, an accumulator of thermal energy, heating up during the day and giving it away during the cool night.

This allows you to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations, which has a beneficial effect on plants.

The disadvantage of such greenhouses is the constant action of air on the wall. high humidity internal atmosphere, which can contribute to its premature destruction.

This can be avoided by plastering the surface and painting it with waterproof paint. To attach the greenhouse frame to the wall, you can use tubular brackets in the form of a glass.

The inner diameter of the pipe must match the outer diameter plastic pipe frame so that it freely enters into it. The connection must be fixed with a screw perpendicular to its axis. The metal bracket needs to be painted to protect against corrosion.

As a coating for such a greenhouse, it is advisable use monolithic polycarbonate. It is transparent, which makes the building an additional decoration of the exterior of the site.

Gable types

This is the most common form for indoor devices. The popularity is due to the simple form of the frame, which can be made by hand using standard PVC pipes and fittings.

Such a frame is strong, durable and sufficiently resistant to wind and snow influences. Such frames provide a low reflection coefficient, and this contributes to the optimal heating of the PVC greenhouse under the influence of sunlight.

If you install the slope at a sharper angle, you can achieve an arbitrary descent of snow masses from the roof, which eliminates the need for periodic cleaning in winter.

But this is possible only on a hard surface that does not sag from the load. This property has window glass or cellular polycarbonate.

Gable greenhouses are equipped with doors and vents for ventilation. Through them, warm, moist air is released, accumulating under the roof.

If the side walls of such a greenhouse are installed with a slope, the illumination in the morning and evening hours will be higher. This somewhat complicates the design, but in mid-latitudes such a solution will be justified.

arched structures

Without a doubt, they are the most popular forms of structures for the device of closed ground. The design is durable, good stability and simple to disgraceful installation. In addition, the preparation of a place for its installation does not require difficult decisions.

Through the use of lightweight pvc pipes, the frame of the greenhouse is light enough that it can be moved to another place without dismantling, which improves the possibility of optimizing crop rotation.

The versatility of the material allows you to choose any size and configuration of the structure.

The arched shape of the greenhouse is demanding on its location in space. The structure must be oriented its axis from south to north. In this case, in the morning and evening hours there will be maximum amount sunlight.

In the daytime, the domed part of the greenhouse is most strongly illuminated, where the refraction of the rays is not so significant.

Dome structures made of PVC pipes

Such a design can be considered a variant of the arched design. This shape allows the snow to flow freely from the blood, which facilitates maintenance in the winter.

In addition, this form is better suited for growing tall plants. Ventilation in a domed greenhouse is much more efficient given the reduced amount of space at the top of the building.

It is not difficult to make a greenhouse from PVC pipes with your own hands, since the installation uses proven assembly technologies for plumbing systems. In this case, the same fittings are used.

Site selection and site preparation

The efficiency of its use largely depends on the choice of the location of the greenhouse. We have already pointed out the importance of orientation in relation to the cardinal points. But it is also important that it be in a well-lit place, not being obscured by bushes or trees growing nearby.

In addition, the platform on which the structure of PVC pipes is installed must be on a strictly horizontal platform. The durability of the structure depends on this. If it becomes skewed, conditions are created for the displacement of the polycarbonate or glass coating, which may be followed by its destruction.

With the dimensions of the greenhouse made of PVC pipes up to 6 meters in length, it can be installed on a base made of wooden beam. It must be placed on a flat area since the fall, and in the spring it should be additionally checked for horizontality and compliance with the shape.

As a rule, this is a rectangle and it is enough to achieve equality of the diagonals. After performing this operation, the base must be additionally fixed to the ground with anchors.

When installing a wooden base, it is necessary to pour a drainage layer of sand and gravel mixture 10-15 centimeters thick under it. This will allow more active removal of excess water from under the greenhouse.

To install a PVC pipe greenhouse with a length of more than 6 meters, it is preferable to use capital strip foundation . This is especially important for soils subject to seasonal heaving.

Calculation of the need for materials for a greenhouse made of PVC pipes + drawings

To determine the amount of materials, it is necessary to develop a drawing of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes for do-it-yourself manufacturing.

In order not to perform tedious calculations for each part separately, it is better to use graph paper to complete the drawing. This will allow, with a certain scrupulousness of execution, to obtain the true dimensions by measurement. The accuracy with this method of execution is sufficient to perform the calculation.

Please note that all molded materials are available in standard lengths. Therefore, when designing, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of their rational cutting in order to prevent unnecessary waste.

Standard sizes of some materials:

PVC pipes measuring 20-25 millimeters are produced in lengths of 1, 2, 3 and 6 meters.
Beam made of coniferous wood - 4 or 6 meters;
Cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 4, 6, 8 millimeters is produced in sheets 2.05 wide with a length of 4, 6 or 12 meters.
Polyethylene film with a thickness of 90-200 microns is sold in rolls, the width is from 1 to 3 meters. When installing, welding in width is allowed. For this, a household iron and aluminum foil are enough.

The distance between the arcs of the greenhouse made of PVC pipes is selected depending on the coating material. For a film, it should be 0.7-0.75 meters.

If the coating is made with polycarbonate with sheets overlapping by 10-12 centimeters, then it is necessary to provide for each sheet a support of at least 3 arches, that is, the distance between them should be: (2.05 - 0.1): 2 \u003d 0 .97 meters. The number of sheets is determined by the given length of the greenhouse.

The amount of materials for the end walls is calculated separately. Basic structure it is made of a wooden block measuring 50 x 50 millimeters and sewn with the main covering material using planks 15-20 millimeters thick.

The design of the end walls should provide for a doorway with a width of about 90 centimeters and a height of 1.8-2.0 meters, so that it is convenient to use a garden wheelbarrow. A window should be provided in the upper part of the end wall.

If polycarbonate is used for the coating, its fastening is done in two ways:

By applying a screed across the greenhouse body. This part is made of galvanized steel strip with a width of at least 40 millimeters and a thickness of 0.7-1.0. The length per strip should exceed the outline of the frame by approximately 0.5-0.7 meters, which are needed to form the collar. The tension is made with an M10 stud, the length of which is 20-25 centimeters, using two nuts with washers.
Fastening to the arches with cutting screws with special compensating washers with an installation step of 250-300 millimeters.

To install doors and vents, you will need canopies of 2 pieces for each part. Below are drawings of various frame options with dimensions.

Connecting pipes and fittings when assembling a greenhouse

To assemble the greenhouse, PVC pressure pipes and appropriate fittings are used - couplings, angles, tees and crosses.

When a set of parts is selected, they must be checked for compatibility. A normal fitting must be pushed onto the pipe by plunging at least 2/3 of its own length.

Adhesive connection

Adhesive compositions for PVC as the main component contain exactly this material, diluted with a special solvent that keeps it in a fluid state. Various additives are also used as additives to improve adhesion and give the composition the desired consistency.

After applying the adhesive to the parts, long chains of PVC molecules are mixed, and as a result of the evaporation of solvents, the mass thickens. The material of both parts is mixed, forming a monolithic, durable assembly.

When purchasing glue for PVC, you need to carefully read the instructions for use, which contains instructions on how to prepare for gluing and proper conduct process.

At room temperature, the setting time of the adhesive is about 4 minutes. At a temperature of 40 degrees, it is reduced to one minute.

A full-size part is cut off from the pipe with special scissors. They are designed in such a way that they do not leave burrs at the end.

Watch the video

Cutting can be done with any saw with fine teeth (hacksaw), but after that, you need to carefully remove burrs that can adversely affect the alignment of parts when gluing.

Before starting to glue the surfaces, the parts to be joined must be prepared in a special way. the main objective- degreasing. Gluing can be done outdoors if weather permits. The air temperature should be in the range of 5-35 degrees.

It is important to remember that the brush for applying the adhesive mass must be made of natural bristles, otherwise synthetic material will also be dissolved and this may damage the strength of the joint. Often, adhesive manufacturers include a brush in the package.

Bonding of parts is carried out in the following order:

Check pipe and fitting for fit. Mark the borders of the glue application with a marker.
Clean parts from burrs and gross damage.
Degrease the surfaces to be bonded.
Apply glue with a special brush.
Align the parts by putting the fitting on the pipe. Turn the parts through an angle of about 90 degrees and set in the desired position. This operation should provide uniform distribution adhesive on surfaces.
Details must be firmly held for 15-20 seconds.
temperature dependent environment the drying time and the final setting of the adhesive will be up to 4 minutes.
Excess adhesive mass from the surface of the parts must be removed with a rag.
The glued parts must not be moved for 15-20 minutes.

Watch the video

When gluing PVC parts, the following defects may occur:

Partial non-adhesion occurs when the adhesive is applied unevenly and if there are gross damages on the surface of the parts. In addition, an overdried layer of glue can lead - the time after application until the parts are combined is no more than 12-15 seconds.
When performing work in conditions of minimum allowable temperatures, it can lead to soft non-gluing, which indicates insufficient polymerization of the adhesive.
A porous adhesive layer is formed when the adhesive is applied unevenly. The reasons for this may be contamination in the area of gluing, poor mixing of the adhesive mass before application, involuntary displacement during drying.

Bonding is the main assembly method. However, when erecting greenhouse frames, there is no need for tight connections. Therefore, when performing such work, the assembly method using metal fasteners is often used.

Assembling the frame from PVC pipes with screws

The nature of the loading of the elements of the greenhouse frame made of PVC pipes allows its assembly using fasteners. This method even simplifies the assembly process. The pitched surface is not an obstacle to drilling if you use the simplest jig.

During installation, drilling may be required at the installation site. With PVC pipes this is not a problem. In the right place, it is enough to leave a deep mark, which is easily done with a sharpened triangular pin made of any metal. In this case, the drill will not slip to the side on a sloping surface.

To assemble the greenhouse, it is enough to use standard M6 bolts with a convenient head shape. To install them, you need holes with a diameter of 6.5 millimeters. Together with the bolt you will need the appropriate nut, standard washer and spring washer - Grover. Caution must be exercised when tightening - PVC pipe does not have high compressive strength.

Watch the video

Self-filling foundation

A support base for a greenhouse is also necessary, as for any other structure. Only in this case it works a little differently.

The greenhouse itself, especially made of lightweight PVC pipes, is light in weight and has a large windage. If it is not well strengthened, it may well go to "walk" in neighboring areas.

Watch the video - the benefits of a concrete foundation

How can I arrange a foundation for a greenhouse:

A support base made of wooden beams is installed if it is planned to keep the greenhouse in this place for 2-3 years. However, it is possible, without displacing this structure, to simply replace the wooden base.

For it, a beam of 150x50 or 120x100 millimeters is used. Before laying it, you need to level the site and remove the sod from the locations of the supporting base.

It is necessary to arrange a drainage layer from a mixture of sand and gravel with a thickness of 120-15 centimeters. Lay roofing material waterproofing in one or two layers on top of the drainage.

Lay the beam along the contour of the frame. The resulting rectangle check for equality of diagonals, fasten the sides together. Before laying, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, this will increase its service life.

It should be noted that treatment with antiseptics does not guarantee a long service life of the greenhouse, it will either have to be transferred after a few years, or the support must be changed.

Attaching the base to the ground can be done in different ways. Most often, trimming reinforcement 80-90 centimeters long, driven into the ground, is used. But screw anchors are more reliable. It's more expensive, but more reliable.

A layer is poured over it concrete mortar, in which the first corner block is installed. It must be carefully set on the horizon using building level. Then pull the cords and lay out the rest of the blocks around the perimeter along them. The setting time of the masonry mortar is about 7 days, after which you can continue to install the PVC pipe greenhouse frame with your own hands.

Foundation made of bricks concrete base installed in the presence of loose soils on the site. To support the greenhouse, you need to dig a trench in the ground 40 centimeters deep and 20 wide. A drainage layer 15-20 centimeters thick must be made along its bottom. It must be tamped and spilled with water for a better seal. Install reinforcement in the amount of two cores 5 centimeters from the bedding, using broken brick stands. It is advisable to install the formwork, aligning its upper edge with the horizon.

Concrete pouring in one run, continuously. In doing so, you need to install anchor bolts M12 at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters from one another.

After the concrete has completely cured, put brick belt in two bricks around the perimeter.

Watch the video

After a week, you can begin to install the frame of the greenhouse.

Other methods of making a foundation for a greenhouse using other materials are also used. Their choice most often depends on the presence and type of residues from the main construction on the site.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the frame of the greenhouse

Greenhouse kits of various sizes are sold in the construction markets. The attached instructions give a complete picture of how to assemble and install them.

But not always their designs and dimensions satisfy the buyer in accordance with the installation site. Then PVC pipe greenhouses the right sizes are made by hand.

But the basic assembly and installation techniques do not depend on this, since the components are the same.

Watch the video

When assembling, the following connecting elements are used:

Cup - plastic product with an inner diameter corresponding to the outer dimension of the pipe. It is attached to the base with a self-tapping screw through the bottom. The tip of the arch is inserted into the hole and fixed with a screw.
A tee is a connecting element with three holes. When assembling the arch, perpendicular coaxial holes are used to install longitudinal ribs during the installation of the frame. It is used only for the manufacture of extreme arches.
The cross is used for the same purpose when installing intermediate arches, to which the longitudinal ribs are supplied from two sides.

The mating parts can be fastened with glue or screws. The second method is more often used, since greenhouses are installed, as a rule, in early spring when the outside temperature may not be sufficient for a secure adhesive bond.

When mounting the greenhouse directly on the ground, the arches can be mounted on pins.

For the manufacture of pins, reinforcing steel is used, the diameter of which is selected depending on the internal size of the pipes used for the frame. Their length is 0.6-0.8 meters, they are driven into the ground to a depth of about half a meter.

After installing all the arches, boards are installed around the perimeter of the frame wooden box. Their size is 40-50x120-150 millimeters. Fastening is made directly to the arches using a metal strip self-tapping screws.

Watch the video

Installing the frame on a prepared base is practically no different from the described procedure for greenhouses made of PVC pipes when mounted on the ground.

Greenhouse door installation

For a normal greenhouse, two doors are needed, which are installed on both end walls. Their main purpose is to provide convenient maintenance of the internal space of the structure.

Therefore, the width of the opening must be at least 90 centimeters, which allows the free passage of a garden wheelbarrow. In this case, the height should be about 1.8-2.0 meters.

In addition, the passage device must be sufficiently sealed to ensure the preservation of the microclimate at night.

In addition to the door in the greenhouse are installed several vents for ventilation. They are needed to remove warm humid air, which is collected at the top of the building and are harmful to seedlings and greenhouse plants.

For the manufacture of the door, a wooden bar measuring 50x50 millimeters is used. The rectangular door frame is divided by a cross member. Mandatory element is a jib that gives rigidity to the structure. The joints of the parts are additionally reinforced with corners made of galvanized steel.

The door leaf is made of the same material as the main cover of the greenhouse - film, polycarbonate or window glass.

Watch video - door installation

Installation of the door at the place of use is carried out using standard door canopies in the amount of two pieces.

The doorway on the end walls is formed in the process of manufacturing their skin. For this, the most commonly used wooden blocks, even if the main frame material is PVC pipe.

Cover installation - polyethylene film or monolithic polycarbonate

To separate the room from the outdoor space, it is done in several ways:

installing a cell phone or monolithic polycarbonate thickness 4 - 8 millimeters;
coated plastic wrap 90-200 microns thick.

It should be noted that the use of the film is several times cheaper, but it has to be changed, as a rule, annually.

Watch the video

But polycarbonate, if it is of high quality (you need to beware of Chinese fakes), can last up to seven years, after which the material begins to become cloudy due to wear on the outer surface.

Before installing polycarbonate sheets on the upper ends of the arches, you need to install a self-adhesive sealing tape.

The sheet is installed in such a way that the internal cavities are located vertically. In this case, there is no accumulation of moisture in the voids.

For installation, special fasteners are used, taking into account the properties of the material, for which only a standard tool is needed.

Watch video - installation and fastening of polycarbonate

A thermal washer and an elastic sealing ring, and its head is protected by a cap. It should be remembered that this material has an increased coefficient of thermal linear expansion. Therefore, the hole for the screw should be 1.0-1.5 millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw.

The distance between the fastening screws should be no more than 400 millimeters.

Joints and junctions of the polycarbonate coating are made using additional elements .

The procedure for installing polycarbonate is as follows:

The end walls of the greenhouse are sewn up with a sheet.
Extra parts are cut along the generatrix of the frame. To do this, you can use an ordinary construction knife.
Cut out openings for doors and vents.
The first sheet of polycarbonate is superimposed and attached. In this case, you need to perform an overhang in the amount of 8-10 centimeters.
Further, the remaining sheets are successively superimposed and attached.

Film coating is installed in the following order:

The end walls of the greenhouse are sheathed with a film. At the same time, at the edges of the door and window openings, it is fastened with strips of 15-20x40 millimeters and nails 60-70 long.
Along the generatrix of the frame, the film is attached with a construction stapler as a temporary measure.
The film is installed on top of the frame after sealing the ends. It is positioned in such a way that there is an overlap on the lower wooden base, to which they are attached with planks. If the greenhouse is installed directly on the ground, the edges must be filled under the base of the frame and sprinkled with earth.
The edges of the film on the end sides are wrapped and fastened with planks together with the previously installed film on the end wall.

Pros and cons of PVC

The material has a number of positive qualities consisting of the following:

Quick and easy assembly and dismantling of structures.
The disassembled structure takes up little space and is light in weight.
The construction of a greenhouse from this material does not require special skills or abilities and is available for DIY construction.
Availability and low cost of materials for the construction of the greenhouse.
High strength and impact resistance external factors.
The service life of a PVC frame is estimated at at least 10 years.

Even with a strong desire, it is not easy to find pronounced shortcomings in the design of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes. It is believed that it is dangerous to put them in a region with strong winds.

But this applies equally to any material. And there is only one way to solve it - installing additional stretch marks and stiffeners. For durability, it is also not recommended to use a soft coating material in such conditions.

Entries

When designing pipelines, PVC pipes are increasingly being used, which have replaced heavy and bulky metal pipes. They have been common for a long period - ever since the polymer appeared and became widely used in construction work. Pipes made of this material are applicable for the installation of not only cold water supply systems, but also hot water systems. They are used to create technological systems, are used in the creation of sewer systems, and in addition, are used in food industry. We offer to discuss the installation of PVC pipes with your own hands.

Features of PVC pipes

PVC pipes are common in the construction of external pipelines, and in the construction of hidden ones. If this is an outer lining, then similar system looks aesthetically pleasing and neat. In addition, this design stands out for its favorable price. Polyvinyl chloride is not only the cheapest polymer. Its cost is much lower than the cost of galvanized steel plates, which explains the cheapness of such a pipeline.

PVC pipes have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other materials:

Ease.
Long service life. They last much longer than metal ones.
Resistant to corrosion.
Resistant to temperature extremes.
Good permeability.
High sound insulation.

No need for application special tools. The method of "cold welding" is used.

Polyvinyl chloride is very hard, so special fittings are used when working with such pipes. This property makes them look like steel, which means that when they are installed, calculations for steel systems can be involved.

Most European water pipes are made of PVC pipes. Increasingly, such pipes began to displace metal pipes in domestic production. Their popularity is growing every year.

Installation of PVC pipelines

Such pipelines are reliable and light. It is very easy to install PVC pipes with your own hands. In this case, you should use the following tools:

Sandpaper.
Scissors for cutting pipes.
Glue.
Primer.
Brushes for applying glue.

The bonding process is carried out using aggressive adhesives and does not require additional equipment. At the core this process lies the dissolution of the surface layer of the connected elements with glue. There is an interpenetration of parts into each other at the molecular level. As a result, a single monolithic solid structure is obtained.

Before you start gluing, you should check the dimensions and resort to the so-called "dry" connection.

It is important that the pipe is freely inserted into the fitting socket.

If necessary, pipes can be cut. To do this, use special scissors or a roller cutter. If there are no such tools, you can resort to using a hacksaw for metal. Pipes are cut in such a way that a right angle is maintained relative to the axis.

Next, a special knife is used to remove the chamfer from the ends of the pipes. You can process the ends with a file. The treated ends of the pipes should be cleaned of dirt and sawdust, and then degreased. It is desirable to blow the pipe.

When starting to glue all elements of the pipeline system, it is necessary to cover the parts to be joined with a special cleaner - a primer. This will remove residual dirt from the surface and soften the plastic, which in turn will improve the penetration of the adhesive.

The adhesive is applied both to the pipe and to the socket of the fitting. The layer should not be thick. The pipe must be inserted into the socket until it stops and rotated ¼ so that the glue can be evenly distributed over the surface of the parts to be joined. Bonding time is no more than a minute.

After connection, the elements must be held for 30 seconds. This is necessary so that the pipe is fixed and does not slip out of the connecting fitting.

If everything is done correctly, then an even layer of adhesive will appear at the junction of the pipe and fitting. This is called a "bandage" and is removed with a clean cloth.

When working with pipes and connecting components (fittings) made of PVC, it is recommended to use an adhesive specified by the manufacturer.

When using an adhesive of other trademarks there is no guarantee that the connection will be airtight and durable.

When installing a pipeline, the details of which exceed 50 mm in diameter, a special tightening device should be used.

Today there is no shortage of adhesive. Manufacturers have specially developed and produced a quick-drying adhesive for gluing PVC pipes. This substance does not require additional use primer for cleaning the surface of pipes.

Video

This technology is clearly shown in this video.

There are a lot of ways to create such a thing as a bow from PVC pipes, on the Internet you can find the most sophisticated ways, but first of all, I want the manufacturing process to be simple, convenient and not troublesome, including not taking much time and effort. These are the ways to get to know. Consider the three most simple and understandable ways to make onions yourself.

Method number 1.

Using the first method, it is quite possible to make interesting bow, the design of which is not subject to disassembly. Compared to the many tips and concepts of the manufacturing process, this option is perhaps the easiest. The main nuance in creating a bow is the presence of construction equipment, such as a technical hair dryer.

For the manufacturing process, you need to arm yourself with:

1. A PVC pipe with a length of about one and a half meters and a diameter of about 2.5 cm.

2. Technical device hair dryer.

3. Narrow hand saw, marker and measuring tape.

4. One long piece of wood and two pieces having a length of about 80 cm.

5. A device for the drilling process with a metal rod and aluminum paper (see).

6. Coloring agent for giving decorative properties.

7. Adhesive tape and gloves of any kind.

So, at the initial stage of making a bow, it is necessary to mark the PVC pipe. With the help of a measuring tape, it is necessary to measure a section 30 cm long and 60 cm long from the two ends of the pipe, followed by marking. For these purposes, for the convenience of the process, you need to use a bright-colored felt-tip pen. Next, it is necessary to determine the central point of the pipe with maximum accuracy, for this you need to measure 75 cm from any end of the pipe. Fix the mark with a felt-tip pen. Then, to determine the area that will be allocated under the handle, you need to measure 8 cm from the central point in both opposite directions. Naturally, fix the marks with a felt-tip pen.

The next stage in the manufacture of the bow involves the creation of a deformation of the PVC pipe. To do this, for the sake of convenience, it is necessary to create an auxiliary element that will help heat the pipe. A piece of aluminum paper must be bent so that two perpendicular planes are formed. Simply put, create a 90 degree angle formation.

Further, the process of deformation and creation of a bend takes place. To achieve what you need, you need to take a PVC pipe and close one end of it with a foil corner element. Being attentive and accurate, focusing on the marking of the pipe, you need to heat the pipe section, which is located at a fixed point of 30 cm. Using a technical hair dryer in this case, the heating process will be quick and hassle-free. It must be taken into account that in order to obtain a good result, it is necessary to try to heat the entire intended section of the pipe with uniform movements. When heating, you need to turn the pipe.

Non-separable PVC pipe bow - Step 4

Once you can visually see that the pipe section has become soft, to ensure that it does not lose the right temperature and simply does not cool down, you need to wrap it in aluminum paper. Without wasting time, in order to prevent cooling, you need to do all the same with the other end of the pipe. If it becomes visually noticeable and sensitive to the touch that the first heated section of the pipe has begun to cool down, it is necessary to heat it up additionally, resorting to the same technical hair dryer.

It is very important to understand that in the process of heating a PVC pipe, one should try to prevent the surface of the pipe from becoming covered with bubbles, black plaque or losing its color. Otherwise, this will indicate that the heating process has occurred too quickly and unevenly.

After dividing the end part of the pipe into equal parts, followed by marking with a felt-tip pen, it is necessary to draw a line from the central point of the pipe to one of the edges of the deformed end. The correct tilt is the position inside the bow from the bottom up.

Having retreated from each end of the pipe a distance of 3 cm, you need to fix it with a marker and draw a rounding of the ends of the future bow. According to the drawn rounded line, you need to cut off all unnecessary. By analogy with the process with the second end of the pipe, do the same.

To hide ugly cuts using a technical hair dryer, you need to heat them up and, after they become elastic enough, bend the edges of the pipe into the inside of the future bow. The other end must be processed in the same way. Alternatively, cuts and their edges can be ennobled with sandpaper.

In order for the transition area between the deformed edges and the base of the bow to be smoother, it is necessary to warm up the transition area slowly enough, focusing on a mark of 30 cm and about 4 cm on both sides. In the process of heating the pipe, it should gradually expand and the transition section will become smooth by itself. This time can be used (while the area is heated) to create a bend in the ends of the product. Relative to the base of the bow, the curves should protrude forward. In the same way, it is necessary to create a bend of the second end of the pipe. As a result, at the end of this stage, you should get a smooth pipe with forward-curved endings.

Next, you need to warm up the pipe segment from the mark of 30 cm to the initial line of the handle. After the procedure, you need to bend in inside onions and let cool. On the opposite side, you need to repeat the procedure. As a result, the features of the future bow should begin to be seen.

And at the final stage, it is necessary to bend the handle. This process is necessary for the convenience of using the bow. According to the already familiar principle, it is necessary to warm up the area reserved for the handle, technical hair dryer and squeeze it between your legs, making it look like an ellipse. The narrowed parts of the ellipse should be perpendicular to the person holding the bow. At the same time, you need to raise the opposite parts of the bow, while achieving a change in the position of the handle, it should bend into the inner plane of the bow.

We complete the manufacture of the bow by the process of creating places for a tight stretch of a nylon thread or twine. Having stepped back from each end of the bow about 2 mm and from the front part about 1 cm, it is necessary to make the corresponding holes with a drill at the intended mark. The holes should be about 5mm in diameter. After that, with a special saw, it is necessary to cut a groove at an angle, located from the edge of the bow to the drilled hole. Naturally, from the other end of the bow, it is necessary to repeat the process.

To give the bow a beautiful appearance, with the help of dyes, you need to apply a layer of them on the surface of the onion, thereby decorating it. The color must be chosen according to your desires. If, before applying the paint, slightly treat the surface of the onion with a skin, you can ensure the ease and quality of applying the coloring texture. With adhesive tape or another, you need to wrap the ends of the bow (focusing on the mark of 30 cm) and the section under the arm.

Now you can use the hand-made product.

Method number 2.

As it has already become clear, this place will be intended for the handle. We must not forget that all sizes are approximate, if the palm is much larger, then the markup should be carried out, taking into account the size of a person’s palm. Otherwise, holding the bow will be simply inconvenient.

With the help of construction equipment, you need to warm up one side of the pipe from the initial line of the handle to the very end. After the PVC pipe has become softened and flexible, you need to lay it in a pre-created board structure.

In the case of using a polypropylene pipe, the boards will not help create a clamp and deform it. In this case, in addition to the boards, you need to use more rigid and durable materials and fixtures, for example, iron corners and a tool with which you can clamp the pipe. After clamping one part of the pipe, it is necessary to bend it. All these actions must be done with the second part of the future bow.

Next, you need to start shaping the handle. Having protected your hands with gloves or any rag, after warming up the desired part, you need to create comfortable spot in which it is supposed to hold the bow. In the case of using pipes made of polypropylene, to create a handle, you must repeat the steps using harder tools. You need to try not to overdo it, flatten quite a bit.

Then it is necessary to measure a section 15 cm long from each end of the pipe. Using any tin, you need to put one end with a measured point on it so that the point that defines a segment of 15 cm is located strictly in its center. From this moment, you can start working with a technical hair dryer, bringing the pipe to flexibility. Having brought to the desired state, the softened segment must be twisted around the circumference of the container.

It is important to note that care must be taken not to overdo it. In the event of a strong overheating of a PVC product, it will begin to change color, turn yellow and lose its quality properties. If you overheat a pipe made of polypropylene, it will simply spread.

When constructing a mount for a tension thread, you need to saw through two-sided recesses at the ends, while controlling the depth. You don't have to make them see-through. As a bowstring, the same rope made of polypropylene and nylon is suitable. Alternatively, you can try cotton. If there is any other rope available that does not have the ability to stretch, you can use it without hesitation.

For the manufacture of arrows for a bow, you can purchase factory-made wooden narrow slats. To feather an arrow, it is recommended to use a natural feather; when fired, it does not injure the hand. The length of the rails must be chosen so that when the product is tensioned, it is enough. To prevent the arrows from sliding along the thread, it is necessary to cut recesses at their ends. To ensure good penetration into objects, the opposite ends of the arrows must be well sharpened and veiled with a hard material. Now you can enjoy it.

All three ways to make a bow from PVC pipes are considered, and the choice of the simplest and most convenient is up to you.