How to make sewers in a private house. How to choose an autonomous sewer for a private house - detailed instructions

Sewerage in a private house is necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you bring there only the summer months. I will help you understand the basic schemes of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of work.

sewerage scheme

Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. You can use the street and garbage pit only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.

Before you make a sewer in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:

Analysis of existing communications. If the settlement has a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.

To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.

Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it rarely needs to be pumped out, a cesspool is the opposite. Optimal choice- a septic tank combined with a biological treatment plant, but the high cost acts as a limiting factor.

Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
Room selection. The sewerage of a private house should tie together all the water drain points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it at outer wall, on the side of the house where the reservoir will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.

Advance planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and evaluate whether the project will be “elevating”.

If preliminary stage ended successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.

Materials for creating an autonomous sewer

An independent sewerage device in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum material required for its implementation?

The main items of expenditure are reflected in the table:

Illustration	Structural element
	Ready septic. The optimal solution for autonomous sewer system- installation of a septic tank of industrial production (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. Main disadvantage- high price.
	Plastic container for a septic tank. As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for waste accumulation. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". A plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices.
	concrete rings. If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, it is impossible to do without attracting a crane.
	Pipes for outdoor sewerage. To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature extremes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laying at a depth.
	Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage. The internal sewer wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. It is desirable to purchase together with pipes right amount fittings for making turns, bends, revisions, etc.
	Pipe thermal insulation. When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated premises (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is desirable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:

gravel and sand for excavation and laying of the drainage layer;
cement mortar;
sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.

outdoor work

Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank

Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:

outdoor- consist in the construction of a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
internal- involve the installation of pipe wiring in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.

If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.

The most effective design for autonomous sewerage of a private house is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but provides for their processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.

The septic tank works quite simply:

settling. First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Bacterial decomposition of waste occurs here with the release of gaseous products reactions and mineralization of residues.

overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified effluents pass through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage retains another part of the pollution, because almost pure water enters the soil.

Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle - both home-made and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more efficient cleaning.

Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.

The calculation of the volume of a septic tank is carried out according to the formula:

V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, where

V- the desired volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
3 - average duration of wastewater treatment, days.

If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people, the volume will be as follows:

V \u003d 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 \u003d 2.4 m3.

Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewer tank

Now let's figure out how to properly make a sewer in a private house. The algorithm of work on the installation of a septic tank in the table:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Digging a pit. In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a pit for the installation of tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of backfill and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
	Foundation preparation. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bed up to 20 cm thick. We ram the bed. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing cushion made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well.
	Installation of containers. Down to the bottom of the pit concrete rings, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to prevent the ingress of untreated drains into the ground.
	Tank bottom device. We make the lower part of the sump tight by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bituminous mastic and lay waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic brick etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated blank made of reinforced concrete.
	Overflow design. We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. In order to prevent organic waste from getting into the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows you to make a selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed.
	Cover and necklines. Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair.
	Ventilation and hatches. We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - so the unpleasant smell will disappear faster. We cover wells or separately brought out necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, fixing them with cement mortar.

If the septic tank is below the level ground water, then outside it is desirable to seal it using roofing material or bituminous mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks, the so-called clay castle, will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.

Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house

The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe connecting the tank to the house. Wastewater will flow through it to the treatment/storage facility.

Pipe laying technology:

Illustration	Operation in progress
	Digging and preparing trenches. Between the house and the septic tank, we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient flow, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sandy bedding up to 15 cm at the bottom. We moisten the bedding and ram.
	Pipe laying. In the trench we lay a pipe for draining waste. Optimum diameter pipes for the outer part of the sewer system - 110 or 160 mm.
	Pipe insulation. If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, wrap it roll material on the basis of glass wool or mineral fiber, or we use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter.
	Entering a septic tank. We can see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, we carefully seal the hole.
	Entering the house. The entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is desirable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated.

After completing these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then we lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.

It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.

How to make sewer wiring

Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network

The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will describe its main elements:

Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (minimum 110 mm), which combines all the contours together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several of them. In the lower part, through the knee, it connects to the excretory sewer pipe.
fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. It is discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to a ventilation pipe located above the roof level.

Without a drain pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the valves. In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.

Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drain to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually made gravity-flowing (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimal slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be larger than the diameter of the line.

Revisions- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet, equipped with a closing hatch. The audit is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline to remove blockages or preventive maintenance.

Stage 5. Pipe connection

All pipes are interconnected using fittings that allow you to make turns, branches, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is desirable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.

Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easy to assemble with your own hands :

Illustration	Mounting operation
	Pipe cutting. Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the smooth end of the pipe to the desired size.
	Chamfer removal. We clean the trimming place, removing burrs from the outer inner side - they can cause blockage.
	Trumpet preparation. We insert rubber into the bell sealing ring. We level the sealant, laying it in the groove and making sure that there are no bends or creases.
	Pipe connection. We insert the nozzle into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the outlet or revision hole is in the desired position.

After assembly, all pipes are installed on bearing surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in strobes or behind the skin) and open gaskets. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.

Stage 6. Connecting to plumbing fixtures

At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:

Toilet- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected by a corrugation or a piece of pipe either with a riser outlet or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.

Bathtub or shower- are connected to the sewerage by means of compact siphons which are placed under drain openings. The optimum diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.

Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.

Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- are built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon is usually bulb-shaped and placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
Washing and dishwashers - also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, it is necessary to install a separate outlet of the sewer pipe, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing cuff.

Conclusion

The installation technology of the sewage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly get acquainted with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you have in the comments to this material.

The phrase “conveniences on the street” can be heard less and less in the private sectors. This is not surprising - after all, everyone strives for comfort. However, it is out of the question if on a frosty night, waking up, you have to dress and run through the snow to a booth, standing 15 m from the dwelling. So home craftsmen equip latrines directly in the house. But in order for them to function normally, it is necessary to properly mount the sewage disposal system in a septic tank located on the street. Today we will consider how the sewerage system is installed in a private house with our own hands. We will also consider the scheme of its device, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.

Read in the article:

How to draw up a diagram of a sewerage device in a private house with your own hands

Starting to draw up a sewerage scheme for a private house, you need to decide on the number of drain points. It should be understood that if there are two floors in a residential building, the scheme of each is mounted, as planned, separately, with subsequent output to a common riser overlooking the septic tank.

The presence of only one riser is unacceptable only in the case of installing a pool or sauna - for them it will be necessary to mount a separate drain.

Important! From the completeness and correctness of the compiled sewerage scheme for a private house with your own hands, its performance and ease of installation will depend. The plan must indicate the length of all pipes - this will help to correctly calculate the amount of material.

Problems that may be encountered in design

The main difficulty in drawing up a project can be the introduction of a sewer pipe into the house. To do this, you will have to break through the foundation or install special pumps. Their installation will also be necessary when installing a bathroom in the basement or basement. At the same time, a special installation capable of grinding organic matter will not interfere. The sewage pump, together with the assembled knives, is called a multi-lift.

Expert opinion

Water supply and sewerage design engineer, LLC "ASP North-West"

Ask a specialist

“If the house is under construction, then regardless of whether the toilet is planned inside the house or not, it is worth building a sewer pipe into the foundation. For starters, you can just turn it off. If you need to install a sewer, it will be very useful.”

When designing, the number of residents must be taken into account. This indicator will directly affect both the volume of the septic tank and the diameter of the sewer pipes that will be used during the installation of the system. Do not forget about the depth of soil freezing - the system must be in the ground below this mark.

What types of sewers exist

The main types can be called:

Dry closets. This format is not very common in private homes. It is more suitable for giving, where there is no need for a constantly functioning sewer.
Cesspool- the easiest to install and cost-effective option. Its inconvenience is that it requires periodic pumping using special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure.
septic tank- the most common type of sewerage system. Waste products are processed using live bacteria and microorganisms or by adding to a container chemical substances decomposing organic waste.

The septic tank device cannot be called cheap, but it allows you to do without pumping for a long time. The main task is to add the necessary substances in time. As for the sewerage system itself for a private house, it will be the same for both the cesspool and the septic tank.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: a diagram and its main components

When drawing up a project for laying sewers in a private house, it should be noted on the diagram the location of plumbing devices, such as a sink or. All pipes are also taken into account (their length and diameter are prescribed in the plan), connections, corners and branches. Data are entered on the location of the riser and its output to the septic tank.

If you describe in detail all the parameters, you can mount the entire system much faster and better. The plan, after the installation of the sewer, must be saved. It can help with blockages or other emergency situations.

Drawing up a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house(as well as buildings with several floors), it is important to consider the installation sites for cleaning - special branches with plugs that will help get rid of blockages. Do not forget about the calculation of the slope of the highway. With a weak slope, the drain will be ineffective, and if it is excessive, grease and dirt will settle on the walls, which will eventually lead to an emergency. Let's try to figure out how to properly draw up a diagram of the sewer system.

Drawing up a scheme of the sewer system

The first thing to do is to draw a floor plan of all the premises of the building. It is more convenient if such schemes are available - quite often such schemes are drawn up during construction. In this case, it can be copied, and sewerage routes can already be “laid” along it. Having indicated the installation points of plumbing devices, we begin measurements. Every millimeter can play a role here.

Important! When installing thinner pipes (for example, from a sink), if they are longer than necessary, there is a danger of their curvature. In this case, the water will stagnate, which will lead to a build-up of grease and dirt and blockage.

If possible, it is better to place all plumbing fixtures in the immediate vicinity of the riser - this will allow you to perform sewerage with most efficient. All tie-ins in the riser are indicated. A prerequisite is the connection of the toilet drain directly to the main pipe, without additional connections. The drain of the bathroom and the sink can be combined - this will save material and get rid of extra pipes and tie-ins to the main riser.

What diameter should the pipes be

The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the number of residents and the planned intensity of use of the system. However, there are also generally accepted norms. So the diameter of the main riser directly to the septic tank is usually 100-110 mm. The same diameter as the toilet drain. But from the sinks and the bathroom there are thinner pipes. Most often, for such purposes, a diameter of 50 mm is used. This thickness will be enough.

All connections and tie-ins must be made at an angle of 450. If the angle of the sewer pipe is even, it is this point that will periodically become clogged.

When installing a sewer system, it should be understood that the riser must go to the roof, from where air will be supplied. Consider what happens if there is no air access, and the upper part of the riser is muffled, using the example of a two-story house. Everyone knows that the toilet has a hydraulic lock that prevents the smell from the system from entering the room. In the absence of free access to air, flush the water in the toilet on the first floor. Due to rarefaction, water is "drawn out" from plumbing device second floor. The hydraulic lock is open, all the smell from the sewer system rushes into the living quarters.

How can sewer efficiency be improved?

It is possible to improve the quality of autonomous sewerage both by installing additional equipment and purely by installation parameters. To do this, you just need to correctly distribute the slope of the highways. The most effective is a slope of 3 cm / m. But for greater efficiency of the sewer system, this parameter can be increased to 4-5 cm / m. This will be sufficient for effective work system and not enough for the rapid formation of grease or dirt deposits on the inner walls of the pipes.

Very effective against deposits on the walls modern facilities. But do not expect a miracle from them when a thorough blockage occurs. Advertisements may claim that the tool can easily cope with any of them, but this is not entirely true. In fact, such funds are good for periodic prevention. If the pipe is already thoroughly clogged, then there is nothing better than the good old cable.

Speaking of additional equipment It is impossible not to note the benefit in preventing blockages of equipment such as a waste disposal unit under the sink. It does not allow large cleanings and other debris to enter the sewer pipe. Everything that is sent to the drain after grinding, in consistency resembles a liquid porridge that is not capable of clogging the line.

How to make a sewer in a private house: stages of work

All work on the arrangement of the sewer system of a private house is carried out in several stages. There is no need to perform them without interruption, which means that installation can be carried out in your free time for a long time. However, according to professionals, such work is rarely delayed - as soon as the arrangement has begun, home master trying to get everything done as soon as possible. Consider step by step the steps that need to be performed. The algorithm of actions should be like this:

calculate the required volume of the septic tank;
install and equip the tank;
we lay the highway from the septic tank to the house;
we make internal wiring of sewer pipes and connect them to the system;
connect plumbing fixtures.

By following this procedure and simple rules for the production of work, you can be sure that the system will work flawlessly. Let's analyze each step in more detail.

How to calculate the required volume of a septic tank for a private house

The calculation can be made empirically: to do this, you need to sum up the entire water consumption of the family living in the house. However, if the sewerage system is installed at the stage of construction of the dwelling, this method is unacceptable. Then you can take the average values recommended by SanPiN. However, it is much easier to use the specially designed calculator below:

Send the result to my email

The average data is shown in the table below:

Number of residents	Average water consumption, m3/day	Required tank volume, m3
3	0,6	1,5
4	0,8	1,9
5	1,0	2,4
6	1,2	2,9
7	1,4	3,4
8	1,6	3,9
9	1,8	4,4
10	2,0	4,8

Many may wonder why the volume of the septic tank is 3 times more than the daily wastewater consumption. The answer is simple enough. Almost all models of septic tanks installed in our country are designed for a three-day processing of organic waste. The same applies to chemicals or live bacteria that are added there. It turns out that three days is exactly the period of time that is necessary for the complete processing of human waste products. Hence the triple values.

Related article:

From our materials you will learn the device, the principle of operation, location requirements, the secrets of self-equipping treatment facilities for a private house, as well as advice and recommendations from specialists.

Installation of the tank and equipment to it

More often, home masters turn to specialists for help in installing a septic tank. However, there is nothing super complicated in this work.

Having chosen a place in the yard, and having dug a foundation pit, it is necessary to lay it on its bottom reinforced concrete slab, for which the container is fixed with the help of cables. If the groundwater level is high enough, then it is first dug in at the bottom of the pit drainage pipe with its withdrawal outside the site into the nearest sewer. Installation of ventilation of a septic tank is also required. It is performed as follows. From air vent a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is removed, which runs underground at an inclination of about 4-5 m. An elbow of 450 is installed at the exit and then the pipe rises to a height of 3-4 m. good traction and eliminates unpleasant odors in the yard.

In the place where sewage will be drained into the tank, a pipe segment with a diameter of 100-110 mm is installed (the size depends on the model of the septic tank and the diameter of the planned riser). The septic tank itself is buried underground, outside, above the ground, only a small part of it (often only the neck) remains, which is insulated.

Laying the sewer line from the septic tank to the house

To lay pipes, it is necessary to dig a trench at least 60 cm deep. In some regions of Russia, where the climate is colder, this parameter should be larger. In any case, the sewer line must be below the freezing level of the soil. It is best to spill the trench river sand or sand-gravel mixture (SGM). After laying the highway, she also falls asleep. It turns out that the pipe is inside sand cushion. Further, the ASG is compacted a little, and ordinary soil is poured on top.

Important! The pipe from the house to the septic tank should go downhill. The optimal distance will be 4-5 cm / m. This will allow sewage not to linger inside, but to go into the container with the greatest efficiency.

How to do the internal sewerage wiring in a private house with your own hands

Sewerage wiring in a private house is done in strict accordance with the project, which has already been discussed in our article. In order to make it easier for the dear reader to understand this issue, we suggest considering several photo examples with comments.

Illustration	Action to take
	First, we mark the places where the sewer pipes will pass. It is best to do this by laser level to ensure the required slope of the highway.
	Now those places that will be in plain sight should be pierced to hide the sewer pipes in the grooves. But this can only be done if the thickness of the wall allows.
	Having cut through the wall along the marks, we knock out excess concrete (or foam concrete) using a perforator with a spatula.
	Where the wall will not be ditched, we drill holes with the same puncher and install special clamps that will hold the pipe.
	We cut plastic pipes to size. This can be done both with the help of a grinder, and with a simple hacksaw for metal.
	Having lubricated the internal rubber compressor, insert the edge of the corner or pipe into the socket of another piece. The connection is quite tight and tight.
	Similarly, we collect the entire highway to the main riser, which goes to the septic tank
	The part that does not sink into the strobe is fixed on previously prepared clamps.
	Do not forget that further will be produced Finishing work. Special plugs on pipes will not give construction waste get inside.
	It remains only to attach the line to the main riser. Similarly, the installation of other branches of the sewer system of a private house is carried out.

Having figured out how to properly sewer in a private house, you can proceed to the installation of plumbing fixtures. But first, a few tips for connecting plastic pipes to each other.

Connecting plastic sewer pipes: some nuances

The quality of sewerage wiring in a private house depends on the correct production of pipe connections to each other. To do this, you need to purchase a special lubricant based on silicone. It should not be confused with silicone sealant- such compositions are not needed in such work.

If you look inside the bell, you can see a rubber o-ring there. It is quite enough for the tightness of the system. However, it is easy to damage it when connecting pipes to each other. Even if the o-ring moves a little, over time the connection will start to leak, and no one needs it. Silicone grease is used to prevent this problem. After its application, the pipes enter one another without any problems, creating a reliable and tight connection.

Article

In order to understand how to make sewerage in a private house efficient and easy to use, it is necessary to understand the classification of systems. The features of their design and maintenance, the nuances of installation and the cost of equipment largely determine the choice. Of great importance is the accuracy of work at all stages.

Types of sewer systems

Sewer systems can be classified according to various parameters, primarily by:

the method of transporting wastewater through communications,
type of waste disposal.

Depending on where the effluents are directed, sewers are distinguished:

schemes with insertion into centralized systems,
Autonomous systems with individual drives or utilizers.

Depending on the method of transporting wastewater, systems are distinguished:

gravity sewers (movement through pipelines is carried out due to their inclined position),
pressure sewers (transportation of wastewater using pumping equipment),
combined sewers, combining the features of pressure and gravity systems.

The cheapest way to install a sewerage system in which wastewater moves by gravity, however, in some cases, the layout of the site is such that the sewage horizon is higher than the place where the house is located. It is impossible to lay pipes with the required slope in such a situation, just as in the presence of stony soil, which does not allow significant deepening of the pipeline.

In such cases, fecal or drainage pumps are used, however, it is impractical to ensure the movement of wastewater using pumping equipment throughout the sewer system in a private house. Most often, the optimal solution is a combination of pressure and gravity sections in one sewerage system.

Types of utilizers

Before you start installing and laying a sewer with your own hands in a private house, they design the system and, first of all, choose the method of disposal.

Everything possible options in this respect can be divided into two types:

(sump tanks),
treatment facilities (depending on the type of device, cleaning can be carried out completely or partially, in the second case, periodic pumping of the remaining waste will be required).

Note: There is another sewerage option - in which part of the drain is drained into the soil. But such a design can only be used with a small amount of wastewater, less than 1 cubic meter per day, and is most often arranged in summer cottages or country houses with periodic residence and with low level ground water.

As treatment plant for a private house, various designs can be chosen.

Septic tanks cost less and perform partial wastewater treatment. They may require additional ground treatment (reduction of the content of impurities in water during its drainage) and pumping out the silt component after partial decomposition of impurities and settling of wastewater.
Biotreatment stations- These are expensive and rather large structures with complex technical equipment and the need to connect to the power supply. After a cleaning cycle, sewage is converted into safe water suitable for watering plants (up to 98% removal of impurities) and fertile sludge (it can be used as a fertilizer).

Important: The volume of the sewage treatment plant is calculated by the formula: the number of residents is multiplied by 200 liters and all this is multiplied by 3.

The interior of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself installation of a local sewerage system in a private house involves not only the selection and construction (installation) of a utilizer and the communications leading to it, but also an internal wiring device with the installation of the necessary equipment.

The main elements of the internal part of the sewerage system are:

plumbing equipment,
household water-consuming units (including dishwashers and washing machines),
pipes (in most cases, products of 32-50 mm are used, and for the toilet - 110 mm).

Reception, collection and transportation of wastewater from household appliances and plumbing is carried out using pipes. They can be installed in a variety of ways.

At open mounting communications are fixed to floors, walls and ceilings with the help of.
When laying pipes in a closed way pipes are mounted inside the walls, as well as in ceilings under the floor.

The installation method is selected depending on the structure of the building, the requirements of the connected units (in some cases, a hidden supply is not allowed), as well as taking into account aesthetic considerations and ease of maintenance.

To ensure the free flow of the contents of the sewer and prevent blockages, it is necessary to install pipes with a certain slope. This value depends on the diameter of the pipes.

For a diameter of 50 mm, the optimal slope is 3.0 cm per meter of line.
For a diameter of 110 mm, these values are 2.0 cm, respectively.
For 125 mm - 1.5 cm.

There are certain rules that must be observed when installing internal sewage.

When connecting to risers of plumbing equipment, the outlet of the unit must always be located above the tie-in of the outlet into the riser.
Pipelines no longer than 10 meters are laid in the ceiling, otherwise it will be difficult to detect and eliminate defects (leaks, blockages).
Connection of branches with risers is carried out using fittings (crosses or tees).
Connection of bends to straight sections of pipelines is always carried out at oblique angles, turns at right angles are performed with two fittings of 45 °, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

As a riser, a vertically installed pipe is used, the diameter of which is more than 110 mm (should not be less than the largest outlet, which is usually a 110 mm outlet from the toilet). The riser is necessarily equipped with an inspection hatch, which is located at a height of 1 m from the floor level. The distance from the toilet to the riser is a maximum of 1 meter.

The connection of the internal part with external communications is carried out using the release, which is encased in a protective sleeve and a pipe section passing through the foundation, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the riser.

The diameter of the sleeve should be about 150 mm, and its edges should extend beyond the foundation on both sides by 100-150 mm

Sewer ventilation system

Ventilation internal system the sewerage system ensures the removal of the resulting gases and the flow of air to fill the system. With intensive draining (high volume or flow rate), zones are formed in the pipelines reduced pressure. In the presence of effective ventilation, such a space is quickly filled with air, the pressure balance is restored. Otherwise, the system will “suck in” air through the siphons of nearby plumbing. As a result, the operation of the system will be accompanied by loud sounds and the appearance of unpleasant odors in the room.

Ventilation of the internal sewerage is carried out with a fan pipe, which structurally represents a continuation of the riser (with large area at home and separately, at different ends, installed by plumbing, it is advisable to install several risers and, accordingly, several fan pipes).

It is brought to the roof through the heated interior space in such a way that its edge is located above the pipes heating appliances and conclusion of the general ventilation system Houses.

The fan (ventilation) pipe is a continuation of the sewer riser and goes to the roof

For those who are interested in how to properly make a sewer in a private house with their own hands, it is useful to know that the presence of a fan pipe for one-story buildings is not necessary according to the established Rules, however, such an addition significantly increases the efficiency and ease of use of the system.

External communications

For the external part of the sewer system, it is important to choose the right pipes.

Do-it-yourself sewerage construction in a private house is usually carried out using pvc pipes, conventional or corrugated products. With a small weight, they are strong enough and able to withstand temperature changes. Moreover, polymer materials absolutely immune to corrosion.

The depth of trenches for laying external sewer pipes should be greater than the level of soil freezing. If it is impossible to fulfill this condition, you should think about how to make sewer insulation in a private house with your own hands. Usually, heat-insulating materials are used for these purposes, for example, Energoflex or extruded polystyrene foam. A more expensive option is to lay a heating electric cable next to the pipeline.

As in the case of internal communications, the efficiency and reliability of the operation of the outer part of the sewer depends on providing the required slope towards the storage tank or utilizer. If the diameter of the tubes is 110 mm, the optimal angle of inclination will be 2 cm for each meter of communications.

When choosing a place for a treatment plant on the site, you must adhere to certain rules for the remoteness of the sewer from various objects

Unpleasant odor and its elimination

The appearance of a sewer smell in the room indicates a malfunction of the system.

In order to protect your home from such phenomena, it is not enough to know how to make a sewer in country house, it is necessary to ensure high-quality maintenance of the system, to be able to identify and eliminate defects in a timely manner.

The appearance of the smell of sewage in the house is most often due to an increase in pressure in sewer communications. Under its action, gases are forced out into the space of rooms. As a remedy, it is recommended to carry out a set of measures:

install siphons with water traps on appliances,
clean the pipes (plugs blocking the lumen are one of the most common causes of malfunctions, and if they are not completely blocked, such a plug may not give out its presence except for the smell).

The smell can also appear as a result of a violation of the tightness of the sewerage system. Check all connections carefully and eliminate even small leaks.

Having decided to build a house on your own, you need to take care not only of the foundation and roof, but also of how to make a sewer in a private house. Exists step-by-step instruction, which tells how to make a sewer in a private house, which will work efficiently and bring comfort to residents.

The project of the sewer system is developed together with the project of the house. Before purchasing materials and laying pipes, it is necessary to understand the nuances of the system, calculate all the parameters and understand the purpose of each individual element.

Building a sewer system with your own hands will not only save money, but it can also be much stronger than with the work of professionals.

First you need to determine how far from the site is the central highway. If there is direct access to it, then a non-professional builder can easily cope with the installation.

The entire sewer system in a private house is divided into three parts:

internal;
external;
settling tanks.

The inner part includes all the elements that are in the room, the outer part - respectively, the elements that leave the house and are located on the street. Sumps or collections are cesspools, septic tanks and other containers.

From the very beginning, you need to think through all the details and connections in the house, since disassembling the entire system after putting it into operation can be more difficult than building it from scratch. Most of all, a violation in the work of the inner part of the sewer will bring problems.

Necessary materials

The structure of sewerage in a private house and apartment buildings has many similarities. The main element of the system is the riser. All water used in everyday life and waste from the bathroom is sent to it. All work comes down to the passage of liquid through the riser, its movement through the sewer pipe and moving it into the sump.

In order for the sewer to last for many years, the materials must be expensive and of high quality.

To work in a private house you will need:

pipes (quantity is determined during design);
adapters for connecting pipes of various sizes;
tees, which are necessary for branching;
fasteners for fixing all elements;
bends according to the size of pipes;
plugs for sealing holes, silicone sealant.

It is better to make the riser and the pipe for removal from the toilet from the house as wide as possible. The place for the riser is selected depending on the layout of the bathroom. It can be installed in the corner of the room or build a special shaft. You can hide the structure in floors, walls, floors.

The riser is securely fixed and fixed. Further aligned connecting nodes for pipes that will depart from the bathroom, sink and toilet. If the choice is on plastic pipes, then rigid fixation is the key point, since under the influence of fluid pressure, the material can bend. The joints of the seal rings are treated with silicone sealant.

Technical nuances

At self-assembly sewerage in a private house should be guided by the following rules:

In order for water to flow easily and quickly from the toilet or bathroom into the sewer, the pipes must be installed at an angle. Every meter the pipe slopes approximately 3 degrees.
At the point of exit to the street, a slope of 15 degrees is set.
It is better to use smooth pipes in work. Debris can linger in the relief, which will lead to clogging and further breakdown of the system.
After connecting the pipes, fixing must be done. Waterproof materials are used, or a drywall box is constructed.
Where the vertical drain becomes horizontal, a 45-degree connector is preferred. Such a node will have less fluid pressure than a 90-degree one.
Inspection sleeves are pre-installed to easily clear clogged sewers.
Wells are built along the highway to eliminate blockages.
In order not to damage the foundation, as well as to exclude clogging of pipes, a distance of 5 to 15 meters is laid between the foundation and the sump.
To make a trench for a sewer pipe, you need to focus on the climatic conditions of the region. The pipe must pass below the freezing level of the soil.

Works with the internal system

The internal sewerage system includes plumbing, Appliances. In a private house it is possible to organize a bath, a swimming pool.

For work, you will need pipes with a diameter of 32 to 50 mm, a pipe extending from the toilet with a diameter of up to 100 mm and risers.

You can determine the angle of inclination of the pipe by knowing the diameter of the pipe. If its size is 50 mm, then the slope should not exceed 3.5 cm, if the pipe size is 100 mm, then the optimal slope is 2 cm. Wide pipes with a diameter of 125 mm are tilted by no more than 1.5 cm.

For the efficient operation of the sewer system, you must know the following rules. To connect pipes with a riser, crosses and tees are used. The bend in the rectangular area must be more than 90 degrees. Maximum length branch part - 10 meters.

As for the riser, it is displayed on the roof of the house and acts as ventilation. The minimum rise of the pipe above the roof is 70 cm. In the room itself, at a height of 1 meter, a hatch is installed on the riser, through which an audit will be carried out. If the room is not heated, then it is recommended to insulate the riser.

Working with an external system

In order to make an external sewage system, corrugated pipes made of polypropylene or PVC materials are used.

For the system to work smoothly, it is better to make it straight. If this is not possible, small smooth turns are allowed. Sharp bends should be avoided.

The depth of laying the main part of the pipe is selected based on the degree of freezing of the soil. But its beginning should not be deeper than 50-80 cm. This will create favorable conditions for creating the correct slope.

Next you need to do earthworks. It is necessary to dig trenches for the sewer pipe and a place for a septic tank. Under these elements, a backfill of coarse sand is necessarily done. The main task of backfilling is to protect sewers in case of subsidence of the soil. It will also make it easier to set the angle of inclination. The replacement of sand with brick, stone, soil, boards is excluded. All these materials can lead to mechanical damage to pipes.

In an external sewer system, the angle of inclination is slightly different. The pipes lean towards the septic tank by about 2 centimeters, but not by every meter, but by 10 meters.

You can choose one of three septic tanks:

with mechanical cleaning;
autonomous treatment plant:
cesspool.

Procedure

To make a sewer with your own hands in the house, you must follow the following plan:

Design a building.
Determine places for risers.
Determine locations for plumbing and household appliances.
Determine ways to connect plumbing to openings.
Mark the connecting pipes on the building project, taking into account wiring and tees.
Apply to the markup the pipes that connect the styles and sumps with plumbing.

Work procedure:

Install risers.
Install fan pipes.
Make all sewerage divorces in the room.
Make an external sewerage project, taking into account the outlet pipe and the well.

Connect the inner and outer parts.

In order for the sewage disposal system to function flawlessly, several nuances must be taken into account when arranging it. Today we will tell you what sewerage is for a private house, how to install it correctly and what mistakes should be avoided.

Pipe laying

Sewer wiring is one of the most complex processes, so its arrangement should be given the closest attention. Its assembly must fully comply with the requirements of SNiP.

Installation of the sewerage system is carried out in stages:
first fit release(pipe connecting the external street and intra-house system);

Release device

Further mounted riser- the central pipe, located vertically; to facilitate maintenance, it is better if he is alone in the house; as a rule, it is located in utility rooms or a toilet; should not be mounted in living rooms or kitchen; it is installed openly or fits into a special shaft;

Last to connect bends, starting from the crosses, only upside down; while the toilet is connected to the riser only separately with a pipe of 100-110 mm, other devices can be connected to a single common supply with thin pipes of 50 mm.

Advice. Liquid soap can be used to facilitate the entry of pipes into fasteners.

Mounting release

1. For him, it is better to mount a special hole during the construction of the house. If it is not there, then a hole is made in the foundation 200-250 mm wider than the diameter of the pipe itself.

2. Hole waterproofed using bituminous mastic.

3. Next, a special sleeve is inserted into it (a segment with a diameter of 20-40 mm more than the outlet pipe). It serves to prevent the destruction of the main pipeline. The sleeve should protrude from the foundation on both sides by 150 mm.

4. The outlet pipe is placed in the sleeve. The space between them is carefully filled with foam.

5. The sleeve is connected to the house sewer pipe oblique tee(tee 45°) and withdrawal.

Sewer crosses, tees and bends

Slope angle

Since sewage flows through the pipes by gravity, in order to avoid blockages, the angle of their slope should be correctly determined. It is calculated based on the diameter of the pipeline. And for each plumbing fixture, it is selected separately:

40-55 mm - from 3%;

85-100 mm - from 2%.

Naturally, the farther the device is from the riser, the more the slope should be increased. Let's say drain hole located at a distance of 200 m from the riser itself. To obtain the required angle of inclination, the pipe should be shifted in height by 60 mm.

Pipe angle

Advice. When choosing pipes for sewerage, please note that outdoor pipes are always painted orange, and pipes intended for indoor installation are gray.

Riser installation

1. He's only going upwards. For such a pipe, appropriate openings are prepared in the ceilings and roof. To reduce the noise of the passage of water from the wall or strobe, 20 mm should be retreated.

2. The riser is mounted only strictly vertical. Minor deviations of up to 2 mm for every 2 m are allowed.

3. So that the joints do not interfere with the passage of liquid, the sockets are mounted above.

4. Gradually connect when assembled side branches and inspection hatches. For this, oblique tees and crosses are used.

5. When connecting the bends, the pipes running parallel to the floor are laid on special supports.

Scheme of the sewer system

6. Excessive pipe turns should be avoided, if they cannot be avoided, it is better to use two tees at 45 °, and even better three at 30 °; if you choose one in 90°, then the waste in it will be stagnate; in addition, when connected at a right angle, the pressure in the riser will be limiting, which will lead to excessive noise in room.

Advice. Since blockages occur most often at the corners, be sure to provide revision or inspection hatches next to them.

7. The riser is fixed to the wall with clamps, which should be located under the sockets. The distance between the clamps is up to 4 m. In order not to damage the system, the holes for them should be prepared in advance or, during their preparation, the riser should be disassembled for a while.

Riser Assembly Scheme

Arrangement of the hood

To prevent odors from entering the room, a curved pipe is provided at the bottom of all plumbing fixtures (sinks, toilet bowls, etc.) - water seal. However, with intensive use of sewage in the riser, a vacuum is sometimes formed. In this case, there is a "breakdown of the water seal" - gases without water resistance begin to penetrate into the house.

To avoid this, it is necessary to provide for their removal into the atmosphere. The fan pipe for ventilation of the sewer system is brought out through the roof. Its diameter is always equal to the main pipe diameter. If fan pipe passes through an unheated attic space, it must be insulated.

With a small capacity of the sewerage sewerage equipment without exhaust is allowed. However, in this case, the riser must necessarily end with a cleaning or revision hatch.

Inspection hatch and cleaning hole (equipped with a plug)

Basic wiring rules

In order to avoid problems with sewage during operation, the following rules should be followed when arranging it:

To prevent a splash of sewage, all plumbing is connected above the toilet;

To avoid blockages, strong kinks and excessive sharp pipe bends;

Sewer system installation

supply pipe diameter it is selected equal to or slightly larger than the size of the largest pipe from the plumbing fixture;

If there is a toilet in the house common riser diameter must be greater than or at least equal to 100 mm - the diameter of the toilet pipe;

The eyeliner to it should not exceed a meter; from other plumbing fixtures allowed eyeliner length up to 3 m; if for some reason it is made larger, then its diameter is increased to the size of the common riser (at least 100 mm); in order not to increase its diameter, it is possible to equip a vacuum valve at its upper end;

To maintain the system, it is necessary to provide inspection hatches and hatches for cleaning; they should be placed every 10 m;

To in winter period pipes are not frozen, in places where they pass underground, they should be carefully insulate.