Do-it-yourself biological septic tanks. A septic tank for the home - a sewer pit without pumping out: device, stage-by-stage DIY production from concrete rings and other options (15 Photos & Video)


Many owners of private houses and summer cottages have a need to build a septic tank with their own hands. Moreover, in rural areas and in suburban conditions, timely pumping of wastewater, which requires a specialized sewer machine, is especially difficult. Therefore, owners of uncomfortable real estate are looking for ways to minimize this problem. There are many options for a septic tank, among which you can choose the most suitable one for yourself.

What is a biological septic tank and the schemes of its device

Septic tank - a container for liquid waste. The sewerage scheme of a private house necessarily includes this temporary stationary wastewater storage. A biological septic tank is a self-cleaning structure that does not need to pump out liquid waste. This design will require material and labor costs from the owner of the house, but they will be much less than those needed for the installation of factory structures such as "Topas", "Astra", "Tank".


To understand how to make a septic tank with your own hands, you need to study the appropriate instructions and prepare the necessary materials and tools. The sewage system of a private house may include a different number of plumbing devices. Therefore, the first step in the construction of a wastewater storage facility is to calculate the volume of capacity required for this purpose. In performing this task, one can focus on the following indicator: on average, one person living in a house has 200 liters of wastewater every day. This figure includes liquid waste from the kitchen, toilet, bathroom or shower room.

It is important to provide for the possibility of an emergency discharge and add another 20% to this indicator. After the optimal capacity of the working chamber has been calculated, you can proceed to the choice of the sewerage scheme. There are two options for a biological wastewater storage device. The description of the construction of each of them will allow you to understand how to properly make a septic tank without pumping out.

Option number 1

A sewage septic tank consists of two chambers: the first is a working one that receives drains, the second is a drainage one. The pits can be of any shape: round, square or rectangular. You can dig them out yourself or using specialized equipment.

At this stage of work, it is important to comply with the main condition: the volume of the working chamber must correspond to the figure obtained as a result of preliminary calculations.

The depth of the pit must be at least 2.5 m.

When digging a pit, it is advisable to reach a drainage layer consisting of sand and gravel. If there is clay soil on the site, it is recommended to reduce the area of ​​work and dig until such a layer of soil is reached, which can serve as drainage. In the event that this is not possible, it is necessary to increase the volume of the working chamber by 20-30%. Next to the first pit, a second, drainage pit is dug.

After both pits are ready, their walls are leveled and compacted. After that, the internal formwork is mounted for each pit. For this purpose, used or unedged boards are used. The working chamber is connected to the drainage chamber by means of a pipe, which is installed at a distance of 5-10 cm below the drain pipe coming from the house's sewerage system.



The inner wall of the formwork is covered with dense polyethylene. A cement-sand mortar prepared in a ratio of 1: 3 is poured into the cavity formed between the boards and the walls of the pit, where 1 part of grade cement is not lower than M400 and 3 parts of sifted sand. After the concrete has set (after 3-5 days), the formwork is dismantled.

Pouring a cement-sand mortar, like the construction of formwork, is most conveniently done in layers. First, boards are installed in the lower part of the pits and polyethylene is fixed, concrete is poured and kept for the required time for it to set.

After that, the formwork is disassembled and a new one is built, located directly above the concrete wall formed inside the pit. In this way, they move to the top of the pit. This method will significantly save on lumber and reduce the labor intensity of the work.

The drain pipe entering the working chamber must be insulated with foam or glass wool. On top of both pits, an insulated flooring is built, which will serve as a cover for the septic tank.

To remove gases in the flooring, two pipes are installed (one above each pit). If you take into account all the important points, the sewage system, built with your own hands, will work flawlessly for many years.



Biological septic tank No. 2

The principle of this waste storage facility is similar to that described above. But in this case, building a septic tank with your own hands will be simpler: you only need to dig one hole and divide it with a concrete partition into two chambers (working and drainage). If you carefully study the above instructions, it will become clear how to make a septic tank with your own hands, without attracting additional labor.

In order to properly build a storage facility for the biological treatment of wastewater, one important point must be taken into account, which is well known to experienced owners of private farmsteads.

So that the smell from the working and drainage chambers does not bother the owners of the guests of the house, it is necessary to correctly calculate the height of the pipes mounted in the covers of the waste storage. Their length should be slightly greater than the average snow depth in the area.


For greater convenience in servicing the septic tank, the ventilation pipes are made integral. The lower part is reinforced in the lid, the corresponding adapter is installed and the second, upper part is mounted. There is a certain rule: the lower the ventilation pipe, the less unpleasant odor from the sewage storage. Such features, found out empirically by practical owners, help to understand how to make a septic tank correctly without pumping out.

Septic tanks from concrete rings and eurocubes

One of the simplest ways to improve your home is to make a sewer with drainage in a storage facility from concrete rings. This construction will require significant material costs: for the purchase, delivery and installation of concrete rings. You cannot build such a septic tank yourself: special equipment will be needed.


When erecting this structure, it is necessary to correctly determine the location of the liquid waste storage facility. If the site has a high level of groundwater, it is important to take into account the direction of their movement. The flow should not be directed to the point of water intake: a well or a borehole.

According to sanitary standards, a septic tank can be located at a distance of at least 5 m from a residential building. If the sewerage system provides for aeration fields, then the requirements are more stringent: no closer than 30 m from residential buildings.

To build septic tanks with your own hands, you need to know what materials are suitable for this purpose. In addition to concrete rings, Eurocubes can be used. These containers are of different sizes, which allows you to choose the optimal one for your purposes. Since it is even easier to build a septic tank from Eurocubes than from concrete rings, this method is most popular with owners of country houses and summer cottages.

For the full functioning of the system, it is necessary to erect a two-chamber structure with a built-in overflow from one container to another. It will be necessary to make ventilation outlets and build pipes of the appropriate length into them. It is best to use asbestos-cement or plastic pipes. The total cost of materials required for a septic tank from eurocubes is lower than for a septic tank made of concrete rings.

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Every owner of a private house is faced with the problem of arranging the sewer system. There is no getting away from this. Still, I want to live with comfort and communal benefits even outside the city limits. You can, of course, turn to specialized firms that will deal with the task of building a sewer. However, this will have to fork out. In addition, highly professional services will definitely not be cheap.

However, you can find an option that does not require excessive spending. We are talking about the construction of a sewerage system on your own site independently. What is required for this? Perhaps only your diligence, strength and suitable building materials.

A septic tank is the best choice

Before starting construction, each owner of a country house will be puzzled by the question: "What type of sewer system is better to build?" Even some five or ten years ago, the most primitive cesspool was a common option. But these times are a thing of the past. Now land owners are more demanding and discerning. On the one hand, I want the sewerage system to cope with the function of collecting and cleaning effluents. On the other hand, I really don't want the sewer smell to be felt on the site, and the maintenance of the system would not be too difficult. Read also: "".
All these requests are met - a septic tank. This is a variant of a sewerage device, in which the drains are collected in a tank, and in the presence of several chambers, they can be thoroughly cleaned. Treatment in septic tanks usually follows the principle of aerobic processes. That is, the wastewater becomes cleaner thanks to bacteria, which, in fact, "feed" on waste and organic compounds. Importantly, the resulting water can be used, for example, to water the crop.

So, how to make a septic tank in a private house? This question, at first glance, seems difficult. But this is not the case. The principle of building a septic tank is very simple. And you can choose one of the many models of its design: from inexpensive to more advanced. It all depends on your capabilities. So, for the construction of a septic tank, you can choose old tires, bricks, concrete rings. Or you can make a monolithic concrete structure. Let's figure it out in more detail - how to make a septic tank in a private house?

How to make a septic tank out of tires

Answering the question of how to make a septic tank yourself, using only tires, you first need to decide, in fact, where to get these same tires. Obviously, you can visit a couple of car repair shops. As a rule, old, used tires can be given away for little money, or even free of charge (read also: "").

And now about the stages of how to make a septic tank yourself in a private house from tires:
  1. It is necessary to dig a well. Keep in mind that its diameter should be equal to the diameter of the tire, to which 20 cm is added.
  2. The depth should not be less than one and a half meters. But we'll talk about depth in more detail below. It should be said that it is inconvenient to dig a relatively narrow hole (read also: ""). Use the tools you need. A bayonet shovel will help loosen and dig the ground. But it is better to raise areas of soil with a shovel. But at the same time, experts advise, for convenience, to bend it at an angle of 70-80 degrees relative to the handle. As a result, it will be much more convenient and handy to raise the earth to the surface from the pit. By the way, if you have tires of large diameter, then you can do without such "tricks" with shovels. After all, then digging a hole will not be difficult.
  3. Next, you need to take a garden drill and drill a drainage channel in the center of the bottom of the resulting well. Through it, the filtered wastewater will go into the ground. To what depth you need to make such a channel depends on the properties of the soil in your area. If it is hard and clayey, then you need to dig the drainage channel deeper. If the soil is soft, then a small deepening with a drill into the ground is enough.
  4. Now insert the pipe into the drainage channel. Better to use plastic. After all, metal - will quickly become unusable due to corrosion. The pipe should rise above the bottom of the well by about a meter. Close its upper hole with a net. Otherwise, large particles will fall into the pipe, which means that a blockage will quickly form. By the way, along the length of the entire pipe, you need to make small holes for the passage of water. Thus, the drainage channel is ready!
  5. Fill the bottom of the well with rubble and gravel. And only then you need to start laying the tires. However, before doing this, be sure to cut off the rubber, protruding part of the rim of each tire so that water can drain off and not stagnate in these parts of the tires.
  6. In the top tire, make a hole for a sewer pipe through which sewage will flow into the well.
  7. Having laid the tires neatly, be sure to make the upper one rise slightly above the ground.
  8. Fill the gap between the walls of the resulting well and the walls of the excavation with simple rubble.
  9. There was a queue for the lid. It can be made from plastic. It will be safer and more durable. Finally, cover the well with soil.
Now you know how to properly make a septic tank in a private house, having in your hands simple, used tires. This is quite within the reach of a person who is ignorant of construction. The main thing is your desire!

The correct location of the septic tank in a private house

If you have definitely decided that you will equip a septic tank on the site, start by familiarizing yourself with such a document as SNiP 2.04.03 - 85.

Here are the main provisions that determine where the septic tank should be located on the site:
  1. The distance to the source of drinking water (well, well) must be at least 20 meters.
  2. The distance to the residential building is at least 3 meters.
  3. Also, you can not place a septic tank too close to the fence and the border of the site. Step back three meters (in more detail: "").
  4. If the pipeline from the house to the sewer tank is too long, then be sure to install revision wells every 12-15 meters. In case of blockages, they will help to quickly detect the problem area and take the necessary cleaning actions.
  5. If your site is uneven, hilly, then in places of elevation differences you need to build a drop well, which will help to extinguish the speed of wastewater.
  6. The sewer pipe to the well must run at a slope. Approximately 2cm per meter.

The depth and volume of the septic tank

When deciding how to make a septic tank yourself, do not forget to correctly calculate its depth and volume. So, the depth should not be more than three meters, if you expect that a sewer machine will clean the well. After all, her hose is only designed for that depth. It is also important to know how deep the groundwater is on the site.
If they are too close to the surface, then an airtight septic tank must be built. Another aspect is the depth of soil freezing. The depth of the well must be greater than this value.

Now how do you calculate the volume? Experts advise to multiply the number of people living in the house by 200 liters, this is a value that shows how much waste is per person per day. Keep in mind that the larger the volume of the septic tank, the less often it will have to be emptied. However, if you have a small family and a small house, then a huge septic tank will simply be idle. This will adversely affect its condition and service life. Read also: "".

Purchased or homemade septic tank

Now you know what to make a septic tank from in a private house. And most importantly, they are familiar with the rules and regulations of its placement. But if you are not confident in your strengths and skills as a builder, then you can turn to professionals for help. Today, there are septic tanks of various stripes on sale, and numerous companies offer services for the installation and installation of sewer systems. This is all good. After all, it is still not easy to build a complex and multi-chamber septic tank on the site yourself.

But only septic tanks with water overflow from chamber to chamber are capable of showing a high degree of wastewater treatment. Therefore, if you do not know how to properly make a septic tank with an overflow, use the purchase of a ready-made model. By the way, industrial septic tanks will last much longer than homemade ones. Their maintenance and possible repairs are quite affordable for any owner of a country house.

Summer cottages and country houses have long ceased to be housing with amenities “in the yard”. New technologies and materials make it possible in a short time to build a full-fledged sewerage system, which will ensure the drainage of drains from the kitchen, toilet, bathroom or bath. Most often, it is not possible to connect the drain line to a centralized network, therefore, the problem of removing sewage from the site has to be solved independently, using the services of a sewer or dumping wastewater into the ground. Of course, in the latter case, you can build a simple drainage pit from scrap materials and thereby avoid financial costs, if not for one caveat: direct discharge of sewage into the ground can lead to groundwater pollution in your and neighboring areas.

In order for "both the wolves to be fed and the sheep to be safe", it is worth spending a small amount and building a septic tank that will clean the drains and make them safe. And so that the costs of its manufacture and operation do not lead to the depletion of the family budget, we recommend that you start building yourself.

Septic tank - a device, how it works

A neatly made septic tank will absolutely not interfere with the site, even if installed in a conspicuous place

The issue of utilization of domestic wastewater in suburban areas can be solved in two ways. The first consists in the accumulation and subsequent removal of sewage using sewage machines, and the second covers a whole range of processes for their filtration, absorption and disinfection.

The storage type septic tank requires regular pumping

The use of an airtight container for collecting wastewater is a good option in the case when they appear in a country house or in a country house on weekends and the amount of water used is small. If you plan to regularly operate the bathroom, toilet and household appliances, then the volume of water increases so much that you will have to pump out the drain pit weekly. To avoid this inconvenience, cesspools of a filtration type are built, in which the liquid from the sewage system is absorbed into the ground. There, with the help of bacteria, it is processed into water and safe organic substances. In fact, a septic tank is just such a structure, however, its improved design makes it possible to disinfect wastewater even before it is discharged into the ground.

Depending on the design, septic tanks can be divided into several types:

  1. Single-chamber septic tank of small volume. It is a container with an overflow pipe and is used in small households with a water consumption of no more than 1 cubic meter. m per day. Despite the simple design, the efficiency of sewage treatment leaves much to be desired.
  2. Small two-chamber septic tank. Consists of two containers connected by an overflow system. The simplicity and efficiency of such a design makes it the most popular for do-it-yourself manufacturing.
  3. Multi-chamber structures. Due to the presence of several chambers, wastewater treatment takes place over a long period of time. This allows you to get water at the outlet, which can be safely discharged into natural reservoirs or used for household needs. Despite the high degree of purification, multi-chamber systems are few in number in private backyards due to their complexity and high cost.

In order to understand how a septic tank works, consider the most popular two-chamber design.

The device and principle of operation of a two-chamber septic tank

After the sewage enters the first chamber of the treatment plant from the sewage system, it is gravitationally separated into liquid and solids. At the same time, the processing of organic waste by aerobic and anaerobic bacteria begins, which develop in the absence or excess of oxygen. At the same time, not only liquid waste, but also fecal matter is processed into water and harmless organic matter. By the way, the work of microorganisms makes it possible to significantly reduce the volume of the solid fraction, leaving only a small sediment in the form of sludge.

An overflow channel is located in the upper part of the first chamber, through which the purified liquid enters the second chamber, where it is further purified. Below the level of the inlet channel in the second tank there is an outlet pipe, from which the purified liquid is taken for watering the garden or diverting into the ground. In the latter case, filtration fields or wells are equipped to increase the area of ​​contact of the treated water with the ground.

Advantages and disadvantages of septic tanks

The question of which is better - a cesspool or septic tank, is best considered in terms of efficiency, as well as the cost of manufacturing and maintenance. At the same time, it is important to remember about the safety of the structure.

Note that according to most parameters, it is the septic tank that wins, which stands out with such advantages:

  • high degree of purification of domestic wastewater - the water at the outlet of the device can be used for economic purposes;
  • lack of an unpleasant odor on the site;
  • hermetically sealed design reduces the risk of sewage entering the groundwater and makes the structure safe for the environment;
  • there is no need for regular pumping - the removal of sludge residue can be carried out once every several years.

The disadvantages of septic tanks include:

  • more complex design;
  • increase in construction costs;
  • strict requirements for the use of household detergents. Conventional chemistry is detrimental to microorganisms, so you have to use special formulations;
  • a decrease in the activity of bacteria with a decrease in temperature - at 4 ° C and below, the process of processing sewage stops.

Despite some nuances, the use of a septic tank allows you to preserve the nature and health of others, and this is a plus that cannot be canceled out by any difficulties and financial costs.

Design and preparatory activities

The apparent simplicity of the design of the septic tank is very deceiving - in order for the constructed structure to be safe and productive, it is necessary to make small calculations and carefully approach the choice of location.

The choice of location on the site. Sanitary standards

Scheme indicating the requirements for the location of the septic tank on the site

When choosing a place for installing a septic tank, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation and acts of SNiP:

  • local sewage facilities are allowed to be installed at a distance of at least 5 m from the foundation of a residential building and 1 m from buildings for economic and domestic purposes located on the site;
  • the distance from wells and boreholes is determined depending on the composition of the soil and can range from 20 m for clayey soils to 50 m for sandy soil;
  • the installation of a septic tank directly near the roads and boundaries of the site is prohibited. It is required to maintain a distance of at least 1 m from the fence and 5 m from the road;

In addition, do not forget that from time to time you still have to use a sludge pump, so it is imperative to think about how the sewer truck will drive up to the sewage facilities.

A household fecal pump with a chopper will allow you to do without the services of a sewer

You can do without the services of a sewer if the sludge is pumped out with a fecal pump purchased for these purposes, and the sludge from the septic tank is used as fertilizer for the garden.

Selection and calculation of material. Required volume

For the device of septic tanks, you can use both ready-made tanks and containers built by your own hands:


The calculation of the amount of material required depends on the volume of the septic tank, therefore the main calculated value is the daily amount of discharged wastewater. It is not required to accurately determine this parameter; it is enough to take water consumption of 150-200 liters for each family member who permanently resides in the house. This will be enough for using the bathroom, toilet, washing machine and dishwasher. To determine the volume of the septic tank receiving chamber, the resulting value is multiplied by three. For example, if five people constantly live in a house equipped with all the amenities, then a tank designed for 3 cubic meters will be required. m of liquid waste (5 people × 200 liters × 3 = 3000 liters).

The second chamber is calculated based on the size of the receiving tank. If its volume is taken equal to 2/3 of the total size of the septic tank, then the dimensions of the post-treatment chamber provide the remaining third of the volume of the structure. If we take the example discussed above, then the working volume of the structure will be 4.5 cubic meters. m, of which 1.5 cubic meters. m is taken under the second tank.

Photo gallery: drawings of future structures

When designing a septic tank, you can use drawings and diagrams of working structures.

Diagram of a two-chamber septic tank Drawing of a two-chamber septic tank Drawing of a two-chamber septic tank

Calculations of external dimensions are carried out using well-known geometric formulas to determine the volume of a cylindrical structure and a rectangular container.

It should be understood that in most regions the septic tank will not freeze in winter due to warm drains coming from the house, soil temperature and the work of microorganisms. Nevertheless, you still have to deepen the structure. The gap between the cover and the upper level of wastewater is taken equal to the amount of soil freezing in winter. It is at this depth that the drain pipe enters the septic tank. Therefore, it is necessary to rely on the fact that the calculated working volume will be below this point. In addition, at a higher temperature, bacteria will more actively process sewage, contributing to an increase in the performance of the septic tank.

Diagram explaining the need to deepen the septic tank chambers

Which shape is better

The question of which septic tank is better - round or rectangular can be considered incorrect, since the shape does not at all affect the performance and degree of purification. However, the configuration of the structure is of great importance in the choice of materials. Everyone knows that round structures are the most optimal in terms of spending the necessary funds. The septic tank was no exception. If it is made of brick, then the choice of a cylindrical shape will reduce consumption by 10-15%. In addition, the round walls perfectly resist mechanical loads from the ground. If you choose a monolithic two-chamber structure, then it is better to make it square or rectangular. Firstly, the reinforced walls will withstand bending forces, and secondly, this is necessary for purely practical reasons associated with the manufacture of formwork for pouring concrete.

The cost of septic tanks from various materials. To eliminate the impact of devaluation, prices are given in USD. e

By the way, we recommend making a concrete structure with your own hands. If we consider the cost of a septic tank, then it will not be much higher than inexpensive brick counterparts (see table). As for the durability and strength of the structure, there can be no question of any comparison, therefore even more labor-intensive technology will justify itself many times over. We will tell you in detail how to build a rectangular two-chamber septic tank made of reinforced concrete.

Required tools and materials

To build a concrete treatment plant you will need:

  • crushed stone, sand and cement for the manufacture of concrete;
  • steel rods or fittings with a diameter of at least 10 mm;
  • metal corners, pipes or channels for the construction of floors;
  • boards, beams and slats for formwork;
  • waterproofing film;
  • concrete mixer;
  • containers for bulk materials and concrete;
  • Bulgarian;
  • manual ramming;
  • saw on wood;
  • a welding machine or wire for making an armored belt;
  • hammer;
  • building level;
  • roulette.

If it is necessary to insulate a septic tank, this list should be supplemented with a heat insulator used, for example, expanded clay crumbs.

DIY construction and installation of a suburban septic tank made of monolithic concrete

It is better to dig a pit for a septic tank by asking for help from relatives and friends

  1. After determining the size of the structure and choosing a place, they begin to dig a pit. The size of the pit is chosen depending on which formwork will be used. If boards made of boards are planned to be installed on both sides, then the pit is made 40-50 cm wider than the size of the tank, taking into account the thickness of its walls. In the case when concrete will be poured between the formwork and the ground, the pit is dug according to the outer dimensions of the septic tank. If hired people will be used for this, calculate the cost of their work. Be sure to keep in mind that the soil will have to be removed from the site, and this will entail additional costs for its loading. Perhaps the total cost of all earthworks will approach the cost of operating an excavator. At the same time, he will cope with the work dozens of times faster.

    It is not worth taking out all the soil from the site. Be sure to leave part of it for backfilling the septic tank.

  2. Tamp the bottom of the hole and cover it with a layer of sand 10-15 cm thick. After that, the sand is spilled with water to compact it.
  3. Install the formwork around the perimeter of the structure. If a one-sided board fence is used, then the walls of the pit are covered with plastic wrap. This will prevent them from shedding while pouring the walls and base of the septic tank.

    Waterproofing pit walls

  4. Lay pieces of wooden slats at least 5 cm thick on the bottom. They will be needed as spacers for the reinforcement belt, which will be inside the concrete base.
  5. Build an armo-belt from a metal bar or reinforcement. To do this, longitudinal elements are laid on the slats, and the transverse ones are attached to them by welding or tying with wire. The mesh size of the resulting lattice should be no more than 20 - 25 cm.

    A volumetric reinforcing frame is not required in the manufacture of a septic tank: a simple plane reinforcement is enough.

  6. Fill the base of the septic tank with concrete and seal it with a bayonet or ram. The thickness of the bottom should be at least 15 cm. To prepare a mortar from grade 400 cement, you can use the following proportion: 1 part of cement is mixed with 2 parts of sand and 3 parts of crushed stone. When using M-500 cement, the amount of bulk materials is increased by 15 - 20%.

    Pouring the base of the septic tank with concrete

  7. After the concrete base has finally set, they proceed to the construction of the formwork for the walls and partitions of the septic tank. Reinforcement is also installed inside the formwork to strengthen the structure of the structure.

    If there are not enough boards for the construction of the formwork for the entire height, then a low sliding structure can be used, which is poured with concrete, and after it has set, it is moved up.

  8. At the level of overflow channels and entry-exit points of sewer pipes, windows are made, installing large-diameter pipe sections into the formwork or constructing plank frames.

    Formwork for walls and internal partitions

  9. After the septic tank chambers reach the required height, they begin to build the floor. For this, support elements made of steel corners or shaped pipes are laid on top of the walls. In doing so, it is important to ensure sufficient strength, since concrete has a significant weight.
  10. When installing formwork and reinforcement, take care of the openings for the hatches.

    Before pouring the floor, be sure to install a ventilation pipe

  11. After the overlap dries, a sewer main is brought into the receiving window of the first chamber, and the outlet of the structure is connected to drainage structures.
  12. They fill the septic tank with soil, constantly tamping and leveling it. It is important that the ground level above the septic tank is slightly higher than the level of the entire site. This will prevent the wastewater treatment plant from flooding during heavy rains or floods.

Arrangement of filtration structures

In order to drain the treated water into the ground, various types of drainage systems are used. The most common structures are filtration fields and drainage wells.

Filtration field device

The first is a system of pipelines located in the ground and connected to the outlet of the septic tank. Thanks to the installation at an angle, the flow of treated wastewater through the pipes is ensured, and their absorption becomes possible thanks to the system of holes and the drainage layer, into which the entire structure is placed.

The latter are a special case of a cesspool without a bottom and can be constructed from perforated concrete rings, staggered bricks, or old car tires. To ensure the absorption capacity, the bottom of the filtration well is covered with a thick layer of rubble. I must say that, unlike a cesspool, the performance of a structure connected to a septic tank practically does not decrease over time. This is due to the absence of solid particles and suspensions that can clog drainage holes and pores.

Using a septic tank, it is necessary to radically reconsider the approach to the use of sewage. From the day the system is put into operation, it is forbidden to use chemical detergents and to pour any aggressive substances into the toilet or sink. It must be remembered that from now on, living things - bacteria and other microorganisms - are engaged in wastewater treatment. Of course, this does not mean that you will now have to use ash and simple laundry soap for washing and cleaning, like our ancestors. When using household detergents marked "Bio" or "Eco", the fragile ecosystem of the septic tank will not be threatened, and you will get good results when cleaning and washing.

The use of detergents free from aggressive chemicals will allow the septic tank to work at full strength

You should not pour into the sewer and inorganic waste and garbage - there is a trash can for this. Getting into the storage tank of the sewage structure, they will collect at the bottom and interfere with its normal operation, and when pumping out sludge, they can clog the hoses of the fecal pump.

To improve the performance of the septic tank, special bioactivators are periodically added to the receiving chamber, which include several types of aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. When choosing biological products, it is imperative to pay attention to their purpose, since such compositions are produced both for normal operating conditions and for cleaning heavily contaminated walls of septic tanks, drains with an increased fat content, etc. the manufacturer on the packaging, otherwise the bacteria may die.

The use of bioactivators improves the performance of the septic tank

From time to time you will have to check the sediment level. The fact is that their accumulation leads to a decrease in the useful volume and a decrease in the performance of the septic tank, therefore, periodically, the sludge will need to be pumped out or removed using a sludge pump, fecal pump or a long pole with a scoop device. Of course, mechanized pumping methods will be preferable.

Video: homemade concrete structure for a private house

Despite the fact that the process of manufacturing a septic tank is associated with certain time and material costs, in the future, a treatment plant built with your own hands will justify itself more than once. You do not have to constantly think that the sewage system can "stand up" at the most inopportune moment or take care of regular pumping out of the tank. The septic tank will be able to function for many years without polluting the environment and without causing any problems.

Many residents of private houses that are not connected to the central sewage system are faced with the need to build a septic tank - a drain pit for waste water and sewage.

If you build a septic tank for a private house in the old fashioned way, then this will lead to frequent pumping out of the drain pit. And, as you know, the first pumping is fraught with an endless series of calls to the sewage service due to violations in the process of moisture removal, after which the soil cannot absorb water. In other words, there is a constant need to pump out water, and no amount of cleaning will help.

A well-calculated and well-installed septic tank can function for years without requiring any intervention.

In the modern version, the septic tank can serve almost forever. The main thing is that it is built correctly.

Where and how to build a septic tank

Types of septic tanks for a private house are mainly divided according to the principle of action - these are:

  • Accumulative type. Septic tanks of this type are sealed containers buried in the ground and connected to a system of drain pipes coming from the house and utility structures.
  • Septic tanks with post-treatment soil. They are structures consisting of two or more chambers, made in the form of containers, the last of which is built with an open surface
  • Deep wastewater treatment plants. They are used in places where sanitary legislation prohibits the discharge of waters with a low degree of biological treatment.

Depending on what type of septic tank you choose for a private house, the installation scheme will differ.

An approximate diagram of a septic tank in a private house looks like in the picture on the left.

Before building a septic tank, it is necessary to correctly determine its location.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the height of the groundwater and the direction of movement.

Important! The septic tank should be "downstream" than the house, outbuildings and the well.
According to sanitary standards, a septic tank cannot be located closer than 15 meters from open reservoirs and 50 meters from a water intake well. There should be a distance of 2 meters or more between the sewer septic tank and the fence separating adjacent areas.

The septic tank system in a private house depends on many factors, however, the general sequence of construction work is as follows:

  1. Determining a place for a septic tank
  2. Digging a pit
  3. Formwork preparation
  4. Pouring concrete
  5. Partition device
  6. Installing the cover

Pit preparation

The construction of a septic tank in a private house begins with a foundation pit.

It makes no sense to go into the calculations of its volume, since properly organized water purification reduces the volume of the septic tank to almost a minimum. But you need to take care of the availability of free space in the pit.

The optimal volume of a septic tank for a private house is an eight-cube pit with dimensions of 2x2x2 meters.

If you have the desire and opportunities, you can increase it, it won't get any worse. Having decided on the size, you can start building the pit.

We expose the formwork for the septic tank

It is advisable to hire diggers to dig a hole, since it will not be easy to dig it on your own. In any case, when the pit is ready or is being prepared by diggers, you should start preparing the formwork.

You will need:

  • Osb sheets
  • Plastic sewer pipe scraps

It is advisable to think over everything in advance. To increase the area of ​​water absorption into the ground, it is necessary to provide holes in the formwork for water drainage. For this, sewer pipe scraps are used, for which round holes are cut in the osb sheets (according to the diameter of the pipe scraps) with a step of about 30 cm.

Since osb is a fairly flexible material with low rigidity, it needs to be reinforced. To do this, a bar (20x30 or 30x40mm) is attached to it along the perimeter of the sheet with the help of self-tapping screws. Vertical stiffeners are added every half a meter. Such sheets must be prepared for at least half of the pit on both sides.

It is recommended to make a collapsible formwork, so that later it can be easily rearranged on two other walls of the septic tank. In this case, both the adjacent walls and the wall itself must be separated into two parts separately. So it is much more convenient to disassemble and mount the formwork.

It is very important that the formwork is securely reinforced and that the poured concrete cannot crush the form, nullifying all the work. This will require a beam, with the help of which the formwork must be firmly wedged in the pit.

After installing and securely fixing the wooden boards in the desired position, insert plastic sleeves - prepared cuttings of the sewer pipe. They should go through the hole in the formwork and enter the ground by about 5 cm. If this recommendation is not followed, heavy concrete will easily knock them out and pour out through the hole in the formwork.

Septic tank concreting

The preliminary preparation for the construction of the septic tank is completed and concrete pouring can begin. To do this, you need to purchase a concrete mixer, since it is simply impossible to handle so much concrete manually.

To prepare concrete you will need:

  • Sand (2 parts)
  • Fine crushed stone (2 parts)
  • Cement (1 part)

All this must be filled with water and mixed.

In addition, you will need reinforcement that will turn the concrete into a more durable reinforced concrete. Instead of rods, you can use any available metal, with the exception of pipes.

Having filled the first half of the pit with concrete, let the concrete dry out. This will take about two days. After that, the formwork is dismantled and installed on two other walls. Then the procedure is repeated again.

When the walls are ready, proceed to the construction of the internal partition of the septic tank. The pit should be divided into two roughly equal parts. The first is designed to collect solid sewage and sludge, which to the greatest extent clogs the ducts in the ground, which disables the septic tank. In the other part of the pit, settled water will flow through the wall and be absorbed into the ground without clogging it.

The wall is built of concrete or brick. It is very important to maintain the correct overflow height. It is recommended to arrange the overflow hole 40 cm below the level of the drain pipe leaving the house. In the water, it is in this place that the least amount of silt is found. Ideally, you need to equip the overflow hole with a special sewer tee, then the settled water will not drain directly into the overflow, but from below.

If you are just thinking about building a house from a bar, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with its disadvantages so that you can prepare for the unexpected.

How to extend the life of a septic tank

When the septic tank is ready, you do not need to start it right away. To extend its service life, it is necessary to use the "old-fashioned" ideas.

There is such a folk instrument - a bailer. This is a piece of thick pipe, sharpened and equipped with a long handle. With its help, pits at least 2 meters deep are pierced in the ground. They should be covered with a fine mesh and the bottom of the pit should be covered with large rubble. The result is excellent drainage, thanks to which water flows freely into the ground.

Another important factor that determines the performance of a septic tank is its ventilation. To do this, use a sewer pipe brought to the surface, which will help the water to be absorbed into the soil and partially evaporate.

After completing these works, the pit is covered so as to provide access for possible cleaning of the septic tank. You can also use concrete for this.

First, stiffeners are laid out of a strong corner or channel and covered with a board, leaving a rectangular opening for access to sewers. It should be located directly above the two halves of the pit at the same time.

After that, the "cover" of the pit must be filled with concrete, having performed the reinforcement as described above. This is necessary to ensure safety, so that the lid does not crack and fall into the hole at the most inopportune moment.

Basic rules for using a septic tank

When using a septic tank, you must adhere to certain rules.

It is strictly prohibited:

  • Dump construction waste into the house drain. Sand, lime, brick debris will very quickly clog the first part of the septic tank. To restore its working capacity, additional cleaning costs will be required.
  • Use the sewage system to dispose of polymeric materials. Cellophane bags, cigarette butts, sanitary towels are not processed by aerobic bacteria. The gravity settling method will also not work due to the low weight of the synthetic waste.
  • Use detergents (for example, chlorine bleach) that can harm colonies of microorganisms that promote the decomposition of organics
  • Drain water with chemicals used for cleaning pipes, machine oil, acids, alkalis into the sewer

Allowed:

  • Use a septic tank to clean drains
  • Dump toilet paper

Proper arrangement of a septic tank in a private house will extend the service life several times. And if you periodically use modern biological preparations that decompose solid sewage, you can avoid cleaning the drain pit for a long time.

Video about the device of a septic tank in a private house (diagram)


Video about installing a septic tank in the ground

The dream of the owner of a country house is a sewerage system that works without interruptions and consumes a large amount of electricity. It is these qualities that a septic tank has, which provides a high rate of sewage treatment. It is not always possible to purchase these mechanisms, because the cost of such structures from well-known manufacturers is quite high. But you can solve this problem by building a structure with your own hands.

Peculiarities

Several years ago, wastewater treatment facilities were understood as cesspools, in which wastewater was accumulated with subsequent pumping out. The modern construction market offers an improved mechanism used to collect and pump out wastewater. In a private or country house intended for permanent residence, a sewage purification system is simply necessary.

Before you start making a septic tank with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the device diagram.

  1. The structure consists of 2 or 3 tanks, which are interconnected by a pipe.
  2. Each container has ventilation holes.
  3. The containers are equipped with tight sealed lids.
  4. Filtration field in which additional wastewater treatment is carried out. Traditional filters are: drainage well, infiltrator.

The most effective mechanisms are those consisting of 3 chambers, in this case, a more thorough cleaning of the effluents occurs. When preparing to perform even a homemade mini-septic tank, one must remember that the structure of the future cleaning mechanism will include 2 chambers.

The principle of operation of the treatment plant:

  • the drains enter the receiving chamber of the mechanism (sump);
  • large waste is screened out by settling;
  • all waste elements are fermented by bacteria living in the treatment system;
  • impurities decompose and give off gases that come out through the ventilation openings;
  • within a certain time, the contaminating components dissolve in the liquid;
  • at the outlet of the septic tank, a 95% purified liquid flows out, such water can be used for domestic and household needs.

A budget septic tank without pumping out due to its performance in most parameters surpasses a cesspool, because it has many advantages:

  • high level of wastewater treatment;
  • lack of unpleasant odors;
  • a sealed system does not allow waste elements to enter the soil layers and does not harm the ecosystem;
  • pumping out of liquid is performed once a year.

The disadvantages of such a device include several features.

  • Complicated design.
  • Strict rules for the use of detergents.
  • The activity of bacteria decreases at low temperature conditions and a lack of oxygen, which leads to a decrease in the level of purification. For additional ventilation, you can purchase a special aerator.

Design and preparatory work

When placing the sewerage system, it is necessary to take into account the remoteness of the structure from residential buildings, open reservoirs, sources of drinking water.

The main sanitary and technical requirements are indicated in the SNIP:

  • treatment facilities are allowed to be installed at a distance of 5 m from residential premises, 1 m from agricultural buildings;
  • distance from sources of drinking water (well, well), depending on the type of soil, can vary from 20 to 50 meters.

But it must also be borne in mind that to pump out the sludge, you will need the help of a sewage machine, which must freely travel to the cleaning mechanism.

For the device of the chambers of the treatment plant, both ready-made tanks and self-made tanks are used: metal and plastic barrels, monolithic concrete structures, still tanks.

The correct calculation of the amount of required building material depends on the volume of the treatment plant. Therefore, the calculation will require the amount of discharged wastewater per day. It is not necessary to accurately determine such a value, it is enough to take the water absorption of 150-200 liters per 1 family member. To determine the volume of the septic tank receiving compartment, the resulting value is multiplied by 3. If 6 people permanently live in the house, then a container with a volume of 6x200x3 = 3600 liters will be required.

The second compartment of the septic tank is calculated based on the parameters of the receiving chamber. If its volume takes 2/3 of the liquid of the entire size of the treatment plant, then the parameters of the additional purification chamber are 1/3 of the volume of the mechanism.

For the design of a septic tank, you can use ready-made working drawings and device diagrams.

In most regions of Russia, the sewage treatment plant will not freeze in winter thanks to the warm wastewater coming from the house. And also bacteria that actively behave in the septic tank are an obstacle to freezing. But the design will still have to be deepened. The distance between the cover and the upper level of wastewater should be equal to the amount of soil freezing in winter. At this level, there is a drainage pipe. Therefore, it must be borne in mind that the structure must be located below this level.

If the high level of groundwater does not allow the deepening of the system below the level of freezing of the soil, it is necessary to make insulation. The following are used as insulating materials:

  1. expanded polystyrene;
  2. Styrofoam;
  3. expanded clay.

How to do it yourself?

There are two variations of making a septic tank with your own hands.

Variation number 1

In this case, the sewage treatment plant consists of two chambers. Pits can be of various shapes. The depth of the pit must be at least 2.5 m.

When digging a hole, it is recommended to reach a drying layer consisting of a mixture of sand and gravel. After both pits are ready, it is necessary to align and seal the walls. Next, an internal shape is set for each pit (board). Both chambers are connected by means of a pipe. The inner area of ​​the formwork is covered with plastic wrap. The gap between the boards and the walls of the pit is filled with a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. When the concrete dries up (3-5 days), the inner mold of the boards is dismantled.

The incoming sewer pipe must be insulated with insulating materials (polystyrene, glass wool).

Variation number 2

The principle of the cleaning mechanism is similar to the previous variation. But in this case, the construction of a septic tank will be simplified: it is necessary to dig only 1 pit and divide it into 2 chambers using a concrete partition.

When making a septic tank with their own hands, they mainly use improvised materials, but not all such variations are sealed and durable structures. Mainly used building materials:

  1. a system of plastic containers (from a eurocube);
  2. concrete rings with a bottom and a filter layer;
  3. cleaning mechanism from car tires;
  4. monolithic blocks;
  5. brick;
  6. iron barrels.

When choosing certain materials for making a septic tank with your own hands, you need to take into account some points.

  • Features of the use of the sewage system (the amount of incoming wastewater).
  • The depth of the groundwater table.
  • The quality and performance of the building material.
  • Construction skills and financial capabilities. Not all homeowners know how to do independent masonry, and the help of specialized equipment will be required to install a structure made of concrete rings.

To determine the strengths and weaknesses of the listed building materials, consider in detail some of the variations.

From scrap materials

There are many tools at hand that can be used to make a septic tank.

Car tires

Often, car tires from wheels are used to make a purification plant for a summer residence without electricity. The system is designed for a small volume of waste water. 2 trenches are dug under the tires. The tires are connected to each other by means of clamps, and the joints are treated with a sealant. The bottom of the first chamber is lined with plastic wrap; concrete is used for high-quality installation.

The advantages of such a structure are:

  • availability of building materials;
  • simple installation of the structure.

Cons of this design:

  • freezing in the winter;
  • loss of shape and integrity in a fairly short period of time.

Construction from eurocubes

To make a septic tank, you will need 2 or 3 tanks. One of them has the bottom cut out to create filtration. Plastic tanks are installed in a metal frame. This will protect the structure from the negative effects of the soil. Before installation, inlet and outlet tubes are inserted into the tanks, holes are made for ventilation. The joints are treated with silicone.

The recess for the tanks is dug at a slope so that the second tank is 20 cm lower than the first. To fix the eurocubes, concrete is poured onto the bottom of the pit, to which the tanks are attached.

Advantages:

  • tightness of tanks;
  • easy installation;
  • long service life.

The disadvantages include the fact that the unit must be secured to prevent the system from rising to the surface.

Concrete ring cleaning system

The depth of the pit should be no more than 4 meters. The structure must be installed at a sufficient depth, this is especially important for an area with a high groundwater level.

The device will require 4-5 concrete rings of standardized parameters. The height of the rings is just over 1 meter. The diameter of the rings can vary from 70 to 200 centimeters. When calculating the future system, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the rings. The mass of one ring is 600 kg (sometimes more).

A crane is required for installation. The first ring is laid with its end in the area where the cleaning mechanism will be located, then you can start digging a foundation pit. After the top end is level with the ground, the second ring is installed. Digging the hole continues. So that the rings do not disperse, they are connected by means of reinforcement. And you can also use specialized spacers to prevent the rings from displacing.

After the hole is dug, the joints of the rings and the seams are sealed with a special cement mortar. The bottom is filled with cement and closed with waterproofing building material. Waterproofing is carried out along the walls of the tank. It is possible to mount one well, which will perform an accumulative function. Periodically, it will be necessary to pump out wastewater.

Block device

Manufacturing technology of a two-chamber septic tank from blocks:

  • excavation of a pit is carried out to fit the dimensions of an autonomous sewage system with an indent on the sides (25-30 cm);
  • at the bottom of the pit, a sand and gravel cushion is laid, the thickness of which is 15-20 centimeters;
  • the base is laid from a concrete mixture;
  • blocks are laid along the perimeter of the walls, which also needs to be built in the middle of the structure for the partition;
  • the inner and outer walls of the blocks are covered with bitumen mastic;
  • a cover made of a monolithic slab with hatches is installed on top;
  • ventilation and thermal insulation of the system is made of foam;
  • the septic tank is backfilled with earth.

When laying blocks in the bulkhead, an overflow is installed, on one side of the wall an entrance is made for a sewer pipe coming from the living quarters. On the other hand, an exit is made into a drainage well or infiltrator. If the second chamber is to be equipped with a drainage part, then it is necessary to replace the monolithic slab with a concrete foundation, and make a gravel and sand drainage in the middle of the tank.

Overflow between reservoirs is carried out at a depth of 50-60 centimeters from the cover of the cleaning mechanism. The inlet must be located lower than the outlet.

Sewer pipes are installed with a slope of 2-3 degrees from a residential building so that wastewater flows into the septic tank by gravity.

Making a septic tank from metal or plastic barrels

Consider the option of self-executing a septic tank from 3 barrels, but the principle of the equipment remains the same when performing a septic tank from 2 containers.

  • Making technological holes. The first barrel has an inlet for sewer pipes and an outlet for overflow into the second tank. In the second barrel there is an inlet for overflowing liquid from the first chamber and an outlet for draining into the next barrel.
  • In the third barrel, one hole is made for the flow of wastewater from the second chamber, and when equipping the filtration field, two are made in the lower part for pipes.
  • For each barrel, micro-holes are made in the upper part of the structures to create ventilation.

To fill the foundation layer, the installation of stepped formwork is performed. When the barrels are placed with a subsequent lowering of the level, the volume of containers will be fully used. This is important if a small septic tank of this type prevails.

After the foundation is poured during the period of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are mounted in it to fix the containers. And also at this stage, a trench is prepared for laying pipes, through which wastewater will be removed from the septic tank to the filtration field.

When the foundation is completely solidified, you can proceed with the installation of containers and their fastening. Filter field trenches are covered with geotextiles. The assembled cleaning mechanism is covered with earth from the barrels. It is recommended to fill plastic barrels with water immediately to avoid deformation of the product.

Barrels made of metal must be treated with a rustproofing agent.

Brick

If you decide to build a brick cleaning mechanism, then it is better to use clinker products for this purpose. They are resistant to moisture and aggressive environments. The containers can be made both rectangular and round. It is important to properly waterproof the structure. It is recommended to coat the outer walls of the tanks with a specialized mastic. Backfill (the distance between the outer walls of the mechanism and the pit) is done using clay. The minimum layer thickness should be 20 cm.

A cement mixture is used to seal the inside of the septic tank. The bottom of the structure should be filled with concrete so that drains do not seep into the soil layers.

Manufacturing technology:

  • a cushion of sand and crushed stone is made, the bottom of the chambers is filled with concrete;
  • along the perimeter of the inner part of the pit, a brick is laid out, which is connected with cement;
  • in the second chamber, the bottom of the pit is not concreted, and brick products are laid on a minimum amount of cement mortar, this will allow wastewater to penetrate into the soil layers.

During the construction of the cleaning mechanism, technical errors should be taken into account, which can lead to incorrect functioning of the system.

To avoid them, you must follow simple rules.

  1. Provide a certain slope of the sewer pipe towards the septic tank. This is necessary so that the wastewater flows by gravity.
  2. Avoid sharp turns of the sewer pipes, thereby preventing clogging of the system.
  3. The inlet pipe should be located higher than the outlet so that waste materials do not escape from the system.
  4. It is forbidden to build filter wells with high levels of groundwater. This can lead to pollution of the ecosystem.

When using a treatment plant, it is prohibited:

  • throw construction waste into the sewer system - this can lead to clogging of the first chamber of the septic tank;
  • use a structure for the disposal of polymer waste (cellophane, cigarette butts, bag, condom);
  • use detergents that contain solvents, acids, alkalis, which can lead to the death of anaerobic microorganisms;
  • pour oil products into the sewer - machine oil, gasoline, diesel fuel.