In order for living in a country house to be as comfortable as possible, the main communications in the form of sewerage and water supply must be carried out.

Of course, do-it-yourself sewage in a private house is possible without any problems.

If you do not live in a house outside the city on a permanent basis, then there is no need to purchase expensive equipment. It is quite easy to get by with a septic tank.

The importance of sewerage

Very often, in practice, the function of collecting wastewater is assigned to a cesspool. In the case when the house does not have a plumbing system, the use of this option is quite logical, however, in the case of a large volume of drained water and the device of various plumbing fixtures, this will certainly not be enough.

In principle, absolutely anyone can drain a house, and it is only important to follow at all stages of the project, which was developed in advance, and included various schemes of internal and external piping.

Diy sewerage scheme inside the country house

First of all, these are all the places where plumbing fixtures are connected, such as a sink, toilet, as well as a bath or shower.

The external network is all the pipes that divert wastewater from the house and the storage or treatment plant. Of course, the device of the correct sewage system is the correct implementation of a huge number of various nuances.

After the project is prepared, you can proceed to calculating the size of the pipes, the amount of material required for work, as well as the choice of the sewer collector.

As soon as we have a diagram of how each point from the system will be located, it is allowed to purchase material that will be needed in the future and proceed to installation.

First of all, if you do not know how to make a sewer, then the main riser must be installed. For the obligatory removal of all gases, a small part from above is slightly noticeable above the existing level at the roof, or the second option is displayed at the end of the work upstairs.

Types of pipes

Made of PVC material. The main advantage of this type of pipes is that the material is absolutely not subject, in principle, to either overgrowth or unwanted corrosion.

The inner surface of them is quite smooth, which allows the unimpeded passage of drains. Installation is performed most often by the socket method. The price of such pipes allows everyone to purchase them.

Cast iron pipes are a durable and always reliable option, however, due to their rather large weight, their installation is quite difficult. Also, the price of such pipes is much higher than that of ordinary plastic ones, to which, in fact, everyone is almost used to it.

You can look at a photo of the sewage system in the country, and you will see that, in principle, there is practically no external difference between these two options. Then why overpay?

Ceramic pipes stand out from the rest with their amazing characteristics, but their cost is far from affordable for everyone, so they are chosen less and less every year.

After the installation of the main riser is completed, the next step is the laying of horizontal piping. During installation, it is very important to avoid various 90 degree turns as this only interferes with the movement of drains.

If you are interested in a sewage system made of concrete rings, then keep in mind that this is not only a rather expensive option, but also extremely difficult to install directly.

It will be enough that all plumbing fixtures in their kit have siphons with an additional water seal. This will act as an obstacle to the penetration of various unwanted odors into the room.

Note!

An important condition when connecting a pipe from the toilet is that the pipe in diameter should not be less than 10 cm.

A septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings has many different advantages. For example, this option is one of the most affordable, but at the same time completely unpretentious during use.

However, speaking of the disadvantages, it should be noted that the mandatory cleaning of the chamber from solid waste using sewage equipment.

Diy sewer photo

Note!

A private house not equipped with a sewerage system is not very comfortable to live in, especially in cold weather. You have to wash in a basin, and run to the toilet in the rain and frost. But what about a person who has bought a manor that is not equipped with such benefits of civilization? And he will have to solve only a couple of questions:

• Conduct a sewer system inside the house.
• Conduct an external drainage system.

In the article, we will take a closer look at the main ways of laying sewers in private ownership. The types of waste systems and some recommendations for their construction will be given and described.

general information

If the housing is located in a settlement that is equipped with a central sewerage system, then it will be enough to draw up a package of permits for connection, create a tie-in plan, as well as a scheme according to which pipes and sanitary devices will be placed, and carry out the entire amount of necessary work. But if there is no central line, then the situation becomes much more complicated, and the list of issues to be resolved will be much longer. First, you need to decide what kind of autonomous sewage system will be for a private house:

• septic tank;
• storage pit;
• filtration well.

Secondly, what will be the volume of the container into which the drains are collected. It will depend on the number of people using the sewage system and on its type. Third, define the type. What will be internal or free-flow? Fourth, where a local facility will be located that collects or treats waste water. And now, in order, we will consider the solution of these issues.

How is sewerage inside buildings carried out in private houses?

This issue is easier to solve than others. New technologies allow placement regardless of the distance to the sewer pipes. And if it is impossible to drain the drains by gravity, you can use a device that provides a forced drain (special installation). This option has many positive aspects:

Which one is better to use?

To make a sewage system in a private house, the best option is gray plastic pipes. If you plan to hide them in an array of walls, it is better to connect them using welding or press fitting. These pipes have several important positive qualities:

1. They do not corrode.
2. Plaque does not accumulate on their inner walls.
3. The service life of such products is calculated in tens of years.
4. They do not require additional maintenance.

Laying rules

Construction of an external drainage system

Information on how sewage is carried out in private houses is detailed in the regulatory documents of SanPin and SNiP. The following points should be taken into account without fail:

1. Wastewater treatment plants are located at least 10 meters from the foundations and 8 meters from the adjacent site.
2. The distance to the drinking water intake is at least 20 m.
3. The drainage system is installed below the water intake.

Cesspools

If the number of residents does not exceed 1-2 people, then it is more profitable to carry out a sewage system in a private house with access to it. It is a sealed structure or a container designed to collect wastewater. This is the simplest design for such needs. The walls are lined with wood, brick or stone. They are coated with oily clay, and the floor is concreted, the top floor is best done also with concrete with a hatch for cleaning.

Septic tank

This is an installation that is designed not only for collecting, but also for treating wastewater. As a rule, a biological anaerobic system is used. You can do it yourself. But you can buy, for example, such as the autonomous sewerage of the private house "Topas". In the case of ready-made factory systems, if it becomes necessary to increase the drainage capacity, you just need to install another container. A homemade septic tank is a rather complex structure that purifies wastewater through a special drainage system. First, a well is dug with a volume of three daily inflow volumes. In this case, the sewerage scheme in a private house should provide for the location of this well at a distance of 5 to 20 meters from the house. Its walls should be lined with blocks, stone or bricks and insulated, and the floor should be filled with concrete.

Most often, the septic tank has a round shape and walls with a thickness of a quarter of a meter. The drainage network should be located at a minimum distance of 30 meters from the house and below the water intake. The sewer pipe must enter the well at least 1.5 meters from the soil surface, depending on the level to which the soil freezes. But at the same time, the level of the pipe inlet into the well should be several centimeters above the level of the drainage outlet. Wastewater is discharged from the septic tank through tees. Their upper ends are left open, and cleaning pipes with the same cross-section are installed above them. Pipes are connected to the lower edges of the tees, ending half a meter below the wastewater level in the septic tank.

Filtration wells

Such structures provide for mechanical wastewater treatment. usually used on sandy soils. Sand-gravel and clay are poured around them. The sewerage scheme in a private house using filtration wells provides for laying deep into the ground, below the aquifers of the drainage pipe. At the same time, wastewater, passing through a natural ground filter - gravel, sand and clay, is purified and goes into the ground. Naturally, before sewerage is carried out in private houses, based on the operation of a filtration well, a suitable place should be chosen for placing this structure. First of all, we dig a pit of the required size. For example, for a family of 4 people, you will need a volume of 10 m 3 (size is approximately 3x1.8x2 meters). The bottom of the pit is covered with sand and gravel, and there you need to install or build a structure. During construction, we make holes for the entrance of the sewer pipe, the outlet of ventilation, overflow and discharge of treated wastewater. When this structure is ready, a pipeline should be pulled to it.

Laying the external drain line

We carry out the sewage system in a private house to the filtration well in two ways: either by digging a trench, or by a trenchless method using a pneumatic installation. It is better to use plastic pipes for an external network. They should be laid in trenches on a cushion of sand and gravel, with the trenchless method, this, of course, is not necessary. As for the construction of sewer wells, they should be done every 15 meters, and the first from the house - at a distance of 12 meters. A well should also be built at each turn of the highway. The depth at which the sewer pipeline must be laid is at least 80 cm. If it is less, it is necessary to insulate it in order to prevent freezing in the cold season.

In this article, we examined in detail how sewage is carried out in private houses, and we can argue that this business is not so difficult and is quite within the power of a responsible and hardworking person who is ready to do everything on his own, with the availability of high-quality materials and the necessary tools.

Decent living conditions cannot be imagined without a well-equipped bathroom and, accordingly, a drainage system. There are some features when installing a sewage system in 2 or more storey buildings, concerning both the general organization scheme and the specific nuances of installation.

General structure of the sewerage system

In multi-storey residential buildings, the sewerage system has a rather complex organization. It is preferable that by the beginning of the installation work a project was drawn up, in which the following should be indicated:

1. Axonometric layout of pipelines and connection points.
2. List of plumbing equipment and household appliances that will be connected to the sewage system.
3. Pipeline capacity, flow direction and slope value in all sections.

The structure of the system is represented by a tree, from the trunk of which main pipelines diverge, into which connection points are inserted. All branches of the system are located at several levels, conventionally - at the floor level of each floor. The number and length of branches is practically unlimited, however, all of them must have a slope towards the riser of 3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 2% for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.

In the classic version, only one riser is arranged, to which all branches of the system are connected. If the effluent is discharged into a septic tank, it makes sense to separate the discharge of purely organic effluents and those containing a high concentration of household cleaning agents containing chlorine. Also, the device of two risers may be advisable when equipping large country houses, where there are more than two bathrooms on one floor. In such cases, each riser is connected to its own local treatment plant.

An example of a sewerage scheme in a private house: 1 - knee 90 °; 2 - straight tee 90 °; 3 - internal wiring pipe; 4 - plug; 5 - cleaning hatch; 6 - non-ventilated riser; 7 - branch pipe; 8 - revision; 9 - ventilated riser

When determining the structure of individual branches, one should be guided by the principle that points with the largest volume of salvo discharge should be located closer to the riser. For example, if you cut a sink or bath drain between the toilet bowl and the riser, then when the tank is drained, a vacuum is formed, which will draw water out of the siphon water seal. It is for this reason that water from toilets is most often discharged directly into the riser.

Riser device

It is reasonable to carry out the installation of the riser immediately after the erection of the building box is completed. On the one hand, this makes it possible to provide basic living conditions at the time of further construction work. On the other hand, sewer pipelines can be hidden under the finishing layer.

The location of the riser must be chosen carefully and in advance, because its position on the plan of the house is strictly tied to the input of the outer part of the sewage system. When draining pipes, they make a lot of noise, so the riser should be placed either in a technical room isolated from the inhabited area, or in a technical well equipped with sound insulation.

The riser should not be walled up tightly, it should have at least one section for which access through a technical hatch is provided. In these places, plumbing revisions are installed - bends with threaded plugs. The place of installation of the revision must be chosen so that it provides access to the longest possible section of the pipe, and also so that the room where the hatch is located is spacious enough for maintenance.

Ventilated sewerage system: 1 - outlet to the septic tank; 2 - riser with a diameter of 110 mm; 3 - fan pipe; 4 - deflector

Another requirement for the riser is that it must continue above the tie-in point of the highest branch. This is required for the organization of the so-called waste outlet, due to which the vacuum in the system is compensated, which prevents the discharge of a large volume of water, as well as the ventilation of the riser in case of malfunctions of the hydraulic lock siphons. As a rule, the fan drainage of the riser continues to the roof itself, where the sewage system is connected to the street through a roof cut with a deflector. It is important that the fan deflector is at least 5 meters away from windows and ventilation ducts.

Connection points on floors

Before organizing the branching of the sewer system, you should decide on the location of the connection points. This seemingly trivial task has some rules that ensure both comfortable use of the sewage system and its flawless long-term service. The configuration of the branches is primarily determined by the household organization of the premises.

As a rule, there are only two bathrooms on the second floor: one is shared and one is attached to the bedroom. It is preferable that both of these bathrooms have a common wall, at which the riser is located. At the floor level, a cross is cut into the riser with two 110 mm outlets and two 50 mm outlets. Sinks, bidets and showers are connected to small outlets, and toilets drains to large ones.

There are more connection points on the ground floor. There is a kitchen here, in which a connection is required for a kitchen sink and a dishwasher, for which it is enough to lead a branch of 50 mm of a pipeline of arbitrary length from the riser. In the same way, the sewer is supplied to the laundry, where the washing and drying machines are located. Also, the first floor is characterized by the location of the main bathroom, where the bathroom itself, a sink and a toilet with a bidet are connected, that is, it is convenient to place this room under one of the bathrooms on the second floor or with a small distance. In some houses, a guest toilet can be organized, as a rule, it is placed next to the main bathroom and is connected with one 110 mm tap for the toilet and one 50 mm for the mini-sink. One of the useful innovations for a modern country house is a sewer supply to the back door, where a grate with a receiving funnel for washing shoes and pets for pets is mounted on the floor.

Sololift in the forced sewerage system: 1 - sewerage pump (sololift); 2 - plumbing connected to the sewerage; 3 - the height of the rise of sewage is 4-6 m; 4 - sewer riser; 5 - septic tank

If the house has a basement, it can also be equipped with a sewerage system, combined with the general system. For this, it is necessary to install a so-called sololift - a lifting pump, through which the drains will rise to the level of the first floor, and be discharged into a common drainage outlet through a tee located below the cross. The drain line for drains from the basement must be equipped with a check valve. The very idea of ​​running a sewer to the basement may seem dubious, but this makes it possible to place a laundry in an area where the noise from it will not disturb the residents, as well as to organize a technical or "dirty" wash.

Installation of pipelines

Modern materials for the installation of sewer systems are designed so that not only a professional plumber, but in general anyone who wishes, could cope with the work. However, there is a certain regulation containing the rules and description of the installation process.

The laying of sewer pipes in a private house can be done in two ways. If the floors in the building are monolithic or solid, the pipes are routed at a level above the floor of the upper floor, thus, the connection points are located at a sufficiently significant height, and the pipes themselves are hidden under the sheet cladding of the walls, or in a false box. This approach is acceptable for routing pipes under the sink or washing machine, however, when connecting a bath or drain in the floor at a considerable distance from the riser, the height of the inlet pipe turns out to be unacceptable. In such cases, the pipes are led down through the ceiling, and then pulled to the riser along the shortest path and hidden behind a suspended ceiling structure and enclosed in a sound insulating shell. In the case of frame ceilings, this task is easier to solve. The slab is often thick enough to create the required slope, and the small diameter of the pipes allows perforations in the beams of the supporting structure.

Plastic sewer pipes and fittings for them are a kind of constructor that is assembled without the use of special tools. Sealing of the joints is ensured by sealing rubber bands installed in the grooves on the inner surface of the sockets. It is convenient to first remove all rubber rings, assemble the system "dry", making sure that the pipelines are located correctly and that the slopes are correct, after which you can proceed to sealing all joints.

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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the main JV requirements related to private construction. I will allow myself to comment on some points based on my own experience:

• Closed gravity pipelines should be used to drain wastewater into the general sewerage system;

Sometimes the terrain necessitates the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows for a limited time to operate the sewerage system in the absence of power supply.

• The pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed using the fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows for some bending (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains its elasticity even at subzero temperatures, so there is no need to worry about cracks and pipe breakdowns.

• The slope of the spacer must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluent will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
This will increase the likelihood of blockages.

• To connect the horizontal section with the riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is the crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if a blockage occurs.
A rope or wire, resting against the opposite wall of the straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two bathtubs on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique crosspiece;

This is necessary so that when water is discharged from one bath, water does not flow into another.
With a leaky connection of the tub piping, overflow of the sewage system is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, the internal sewage system is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, the pipes are best left accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, which has risen up between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its entire thickness with cement mortar;

In a wooden floor, polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the spread of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• Embedding of pipes into the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens is not allowed;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (drain pipes) that are connected to the upper points of the system. The fan pipe is led out 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its drainage part;

• Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit traction in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-carried debris and prevent precipitation from entering it in a downpour.
For the owners of cesspools, who pay for the removal of effluents, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of an intra-house sewage system should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at bends;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest well of the yard sewage system (for example, when located in the basement or basement floor), the corresponding section of the sewage system is equipped with a sewer valve or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals to prevent sewage gases from entering the premises;

The connections of the elbows and siphons with the sewerage system are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be completed with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, showers, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewer is 50 mm. For toilets - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewerage system, including two baths in one room, subject to simultaneous salvo discharge.

Noise

The sound of water pouring in pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sections of the sewer in the underground, basement or behind false walls... Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the dwelling, close it with a box made of gypsum plasterboard or wall panels... It is advisable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used in this capacity); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewage system. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own system of diameters, which is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riser equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to properly assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic rules for installation:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of permanent blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the step between the clamps, the unsecured sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such an attachment will not allow them to shift under their own weight.

The sockets of pipes and fittings should be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, over which bulky debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has got into it can catch.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to deburr the inside of the pipe and chamfer it from the outside. Burrs will pick up wastewater-borne hair, tissue fibers and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate assembly of the joint.

If the pipe is forced into the socket, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other water-based lubricant. Do not use machine oil and other fuels and lubricants for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With a hidden gasket (in boxes and false walls), it is better to collect connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the bell to leak.

Ventilation

It is really needed. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewage system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant traction in it. In addition, all sockets of plumbing fixtures were carefully sealed.

It was not so: after some time, a characteristic smell of sewage appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushed in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The vacuum arising in this case in the upper part of the riser sucked water from the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was predictably solved by installing a funnel at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewer sections is often practiced. So, in Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the soil surface. Laying pipes that provide drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewage to the septic tank along the facade: I did not want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in a warm climatic zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe heats up on which the cable is fixed.

The installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. By reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces off-target heat loss;
• Since the aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of the cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that it is necessary to leave the termination and heat shrinkage between the cable and the cold end outside the container with drains.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat-shrinkable tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active medium.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of the sewage system is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The coziness and comfort of a country house, private household, country cottage cannot be imagined without an effective, well-functioning sewage system.

The planning, arrangement and maintenance of the drainage complex is the object of constant close attention of the owners of individual real estate.

Understanding all the fundamental principles of the construction and maintenance of the drainage of waste masses, the design of the main components and assemblies of the system, it is not difficult to carry out the sewage system to a private house with your own hands. At the same time, significant savings are achieved in the selection of consumables and remuneration of qualified specialists.

Every home craftsman who has created with his own hands such a complex functional system for his own home as an autonomous sewage system automatically becomes an indispensable specialist in its maintenance.

On the construction market of Moscow and the region, there are many companies for the arrangement of water supply and sewerage works on a turnkey basis. The Moscow region positions a different price range - for a small country house, the cost is in the range of 20-30 thousand rubles. For a medium-sized building with tenants up to 6 people, the drain will cost 50-60 thousand rubles. The equipment of the drainage system of a large 2-3-storey cottage with more than 12 residents can cost 200-300 thousand rubles and more.

So, how to design and implement a sewage system in a private house, which will work for more than a decade without failures and emergencies? How do you plan everything yourself, while saving 50% of the total costs? This will be discussed further in our article.

Draining design

Before starting all work, it is necessary to carefully consider the device of the entire system as a whole, as well as the composition of all its components. It is best to put your design vision on paper.

The drawn project will be constantly in sight, helping to take into account important details. Working on the drawing will allow you to plan a compact arrangement of pipes and take into account the structural features of the building.

In the project, it is important to take into account the location of each plumbing unit, indicate the ways of laying pipelines to the equipment, calculate the required number of fittings, pipes, materials.

Specific sections of the utility network to be laid must be designated separately by calculating the length of the pipes and their diameters. When purchasing materials, this information will be very useful. The sewerage scheme in a private house will be a reliable help in its construction.

The design process involves the arrangement of internal and external waste water discharge circuits.

When laying an internal sewage system, the following are installed:

• Fan pipe
• Central riser
• Pipes to shower, bathroom, toilet

An external sewage system in a private house is responsible for the drainage of external wastewater. It is arranged for supply to a septic tank or to a deep cleaning station. The latter construction will have a high cost price. If there is a central sewerage system near the house, the task of arranging an external outlet for waste water is greatly simplified, and considerable savings are achieved.

To simplify installation, as well as to reduce costs, at the design stage, the premises of the house associated with water consumption should be arranged as compactly as possible. Thanks to this arrangement, the laying of pipes inside the house is greatly simplified.

An important tip - the design process must be started from the riser. Only by determining the channel for the passage of the riser and the collector pipe, it is possible to outline the further location of all other constituent parts of the system.

• the best material option for laying sewers is polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride pipes, tees, fittings. They are much cheaper, but much more durable than cast iron products;
• laying drain networks, all turns in them can be mounted using two plastic elbows with a 45-degree bend. The design significantly minimizes the likelihood of blockages, which often occur when using one 90-degree bend;
• for gray kitchen drains, as well as for removing used water from the bathroom, PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters are used;
• toilet waste pipes must be at least 100-110 millimeters in diameter. The total length of such pipes should be no more than 1000 millimeters.

Routing and laying of pipes

Installation work during the laying of pipelines of the drainage complex is considered the most laborious in construction. Arranging the house with his own hands, it will be difficult for one owner to cope with the entire volume of work. Therefore, it is recommended to have one or two assistants from among family members, neighbors, acquaintances. The speed of work and the quality of the sewerage wiring will only benefit from this.

Currently, the trading network and construction Internet portals offer a wide variety of plastic pipes, revisions, tees, elbows. With the help of rubber cuffs, they are connected without any problems and function perfectly without the passage of water. At the same time, the joints are treated with special construction silicone sealants. In places where pipe communications pass through walls, sleeves are installed on top of them to prevent damage.

An indicative list of tools that will be needed when laying sewer pipes:

• Automatic sealant gun
• Set of screwdrivers
• Hammer 200 g
• Electric rotary hammer
• Pencil
• Level
• Grinder with a long cord
• Hacksaw for cutting plastic and metal

Small mistakes are always possible with such work. In order to detect leaks or defects in the fittings, the finished sewerage system must be tested with clean water before being put into operation. Only after making sure of the reliability of its condition, you can connect it to the existing equipment of the home. Storm sewage can be combined at the exit from the house with an internal drain.

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Bias and release

An important factor when installing drain structures is the correct slope. Modern building codes suggest the slope of systems where there is no fluid pressure, taking into account the diameter of the pipelines. 50mm pipes should have a slope of 3 centimeters per meter of their length. Pipes with a diameter of 100-110 millimeters can have a slope of 2 centimeters in their length. Based on this, different points of horizontal pipes should be at different heights.

To prevent the docking of external and internal wiring, installation begins with the release of the sewer. The outlet is the location in the pipeline where the inner riser connects to the pipe leading to the septic tank. It is laid deep in the ground through the foundation, below the level of soil freezing in the region.

In extreme cases, if conditions do not allow and the release is higher, it must be very carefully insulated. Otherwise, in winter frosts, the pipe with drained water will freeze and create problems.

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Cesspool and septic tank for wastewater treatment

The most inexpensive way to arrange the disposal of used water from a private house is a cesspool. It is manufactured at the rate of 0.5-0.8 m³ per person. The bottom of the pit is filled with concrete. The side walls are lined with bricks, blocks, and can be filled with concrete. To avoid the ingress of sewage into the drinking water, the top of the masonry is sealed with bitumen mastic.

Sewer wiring is laid in a trench 1 meter deep. The ditch is covered with a wooden ceiling, which is poured from above with liquid bitumen and an inspection hatch with a cover is installed.

The cesspool should be located in a place convenient for sewage transport. This is necessary so that the pit must be cleaned as it fills. In all settlements there is a service that, at the request of the owners of private houses, sends special machines for cleaning cesspools.

When deciding on the creation of a sewer structure, the owner should familiarize himself with the full list of special devices widely available on the building materials market. Plastic septic tanks, storage tanks, multi-chamber sewerage systems - these devices facilitate the installation of the drainage complex, ensuring the reliability and durability of its service.

The septic tank has a more reliable design, longer service life, ease of use. Its task is to clarify wastewater and discharge it into the ground. A septic tank is usually made of several sections, depending on the expected volume of water consumption in the house. According to the norms, it should be located at a distance of 20 m from a residential building. The drainage unit is mounted at a distance sufficient to prevent erosion of the soil, foundation and the ingress of wastewater into basements and wells.

The drainage system should be located below the drinking water intake level, not closer than 50 m from the water intake point. In the absence of groundwater, a filter well is arranged instead of a drainage system. It is laid out of bricks, blocks, or poured with concrete in the formwork. From above, the device is closed with a lid and covered with molten bitumen for sealing.

A ready-made septic tank can be purchased in a retail network, on Internet portals. Plastic containers and concrete rings are often used for this purpose. It is important to remember: the pipe leading to the drainage system must be laid at a depth of at least one and a half meters. The depth of the sewage system will help to avoid its freezing in the winter. The septic tank is cleaned at least once a year. Bottom sediments are converted into minerals, which are successfully used as fertilizer for the vegetable garden.

Filter well

The filter well is installed with an insignificant water consumption - up to 1 m³. A sealed body is made, the bottom is filled with any loose filtering material: crushed stone, slag, gravel, grain screenings. A similar device is located at a distance of 50 m from the water intake. Its bottom is located at least one meter above the groundwater level.

It is advisable to use modern technological materials when arranging a sewerage system for a country house. Here, pipes made of polyvinyl chloride or good quality polypropylene are best suited. Such materials will serve for more than one decade, delighting the inhabitants of the house with their functionality, reliability, and trouble-free operation. If it is necessary to replace small parts, they can be easily changed without compromising the family budget.

Thus, the rhetorical question of how to make a sewage system in a private house or cottage with your own hands is an attractive topic that every real estate owner can do for himself, choosing the most optimal option from a variety of designs.

Having figured out the twists and turns of construction, having correctly installed the sewage system, the owner of the mansion will be able to independently solve all the issues that arise during the entire long period of its operation, without involving specialists from specialized companies for this.