How to properly assemble an electrical panel in an apartment or a private house. Distribution room of the floor board

An electrical panel in a private house, in a country house, in an apartment performs a double function: it provides input and distribution of electricity and creates safe operating conditions. If there is a desire to understand not the simplest issue, you can assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. The introductory machine and the counter should be installed by representatives of the power supply organization, but further, after the counter, you can assemble the circuit yourself (although they do not like to lose money). True, before putting the house into operation, you will need to invite them so that they are present at start-up, they check everything and measure the ground loop. All of these are paid services, but they cost much less than a complete assembly of the shield. If you do everything correctly and according to the norms, it will turn out even better on your own: after all, you do it for yourself.

What should be in the dashboard

Both in the apartment and in a private house there are several options for the layout of the shield. This mainly concerns the place of installation of the introductory machine and the counter. In a private house, they can put the meter on a pole, and the machine on the wall of the house, almost under the roof. Sometimes a meter is installed in the house, but that is if it was built a couple of decades ago. Recently, metering devices have been installed extremely rarely in the house, although there are no decisions and instructions on this matter. If the meter is in the room, it can be installed in a flap, then when choosing a flap model, the dimensions of the meter must be taken into account.

In some apartment buildings, meters are located in boxes on the stairwells. In this case, the cabinet is needed only for RCDs and automatic machines. In other houses, he is in the apartment. When upgrading the electrical network, the cabinet will have to be bought with the expectation that the meter will fit there too, or buy a separate box for the meter with an introductory machine.

Safety is very important when drawing up a power plan. First of all, it is provided for people: with the help of an RCD - a residual current device (in the photo under number 3), which is installed immediately after the meter. This device is triggered if the leakage current exceeds the threshold value (there was a short to ground or someone put their fingers in the socket). This device breaks the circuit, minimizing the possibility of electric shock. From the RCD, the phase goes to the inputs of the machines, which also operate when the load is exceeded or when the circuit is short-circuited, but each in its own section.

Secondly, it is necessary to ensure the normal operation of household appliances and electrical appliances. Modern sophisticated technology is controlled by microprocessors. They need a stable power supply to function properly. After observing the voltage in our network for some time, you cannot call it stable: it varies from 150-160 V to 280 V. Such a range of imported equipment cannot withstand. Therefore, it is better to turn on at least some groups of machines that supply power to complex equipment through. Yes, it costs a lot. But with power surges, the control boards are the first to "fly". They are not being repaired, but simply changed. The cost of such a replacement is about half the cost of the device (more or less depends on the type of device). It's hardly any cheaper. When assembling an electrical panel with your own hands, or just planning it while planning, remember this.

One example of a panel layout for a small circuit - for 6 machines

The stabilizer is installed on one or several groups and turns on after the RCD and in front of the group machines. Since this device is rather big, it will not be possible to install it in the shield, but next to it, please.

Also, two buses are installed in the shield: grounding and grounding. All grounding wires from devices and devices are connected to the grounding bus. The wire comes to the "zero" bus from the RCD, and is fed to the corresponding inputs of the machines. Zero is usually denoted by the letter N, when wiring it is customary to use a blue wire. For grounding - white or yellow-green, the phase is lead with a red or brown wire.

When assembling the electrical panel on your own, you will need to purchase the cabinet itself, as well as rails (called DIN rails or DIN rails), on which machines, RCDs and switches are attached. When installing the rails, check the level of their horizontalness: there will be no problems with the fastening of the machines.

All machines must be interconnected. This can be done using conductors - connecting their inputs in series, or using a ready-made connecting comb. A comb is more reliable, although it costs more, but if you take into account the time that you spend on connecting all the machines, then hardly a few tens of rubles are of such fundamental importance.

Multi-group scheme

Power supply schemes are not always simple: groups of consumers are divided into floors, outbuildings, lighting of the garage, basement, courtyard and local area are displayed separately. With a large number of consumers, in addition to the general RCD after the meter, they put the same devices, only of lower power - for each group. Separately, with the obligatory installation of a personal protective device, the power supply for the bathroom is output: this is one of the most dangerous rooms in the house and apartment.

It is very desirable to put protective devices on each of the inputs that go to powerful household appliances (more than 2.5 kW, and even a hair dryer can have such power). Together with the stabilizer, they will create normal conditions for the operation of the electronics.

Also not the most complicated circuit, but with a higher degree of protection - more RCDs

In general, when designing an accurate circuit, you will have to find a compromise: make the system safe and not spend too much money. It is better to take equipment from trusted firms, but it costs decently. But power grids are not an area to save money.

Types and sizes of switchboards

It will be about cabinets / boxes for the installation of machines and other electrical filling, about their varieties. By type of installation, electrical panels are for outdoor installation and for indoor installation. The outdoor box is fixed to the wall with dowels. If the walls are flammable, a non-conductive insulating material is placed under it. When mounted, the external electrical panel protrudes about 12-18 cm above the wall surface. This must be taken into account when choosing a place for its installation: for ease of maintenance, the shield is mounted so that all its parts are approximately at eye level. This is convenient when working, but it can threaten with injuries (sharp corners) if the location for the cabinet is not chosen well. The best option is behind the door or closer to the corner: so that there is no possibility of hitting your head.

A flush-mounted shield implies the presence of a niche: it is installed and walled up. The door is flush with the wall surface, maybe - it protrudes a few millimeters - depending on the installation and design of a particular cabinet.

The cases are made of metal, painted with powder paint, and there are plastic ones. Doors - solid or with transparent plastic inserts. Sizes are different - elongated upward, wide, square. In principle, a suitable option can be found for any niche or condition. One tip: if possible, choose a larger cabinet: it is easier to work in it, this is especially important if you are assembling an electrical panel with your own hands for the first time.

When choosing a case, they often operate on such a concept as the number of seats. This means how many single-pole circuit breakers (12 mm thick) can be installed in a given housing. You have a diagram, all devices are indicated on it. Consider them taking into account the fact that two-pole ones have double width, add about 20% to the development of the network (suddenly buy some other device, but there will be nowhere to connect, or during installation decide to make two from one group, etc.). And for such a number of "seats" look for a flap suitable for geometry.

Installation and connection of elements

All modern machines and RCDs have a unified mount for a standard mounting rail (DIN rail). On the back, they have a plastic stop that snaps into place on the bar. Place the device on the rail, hooking it with the recess on the back wall, press on the bottom with your finger. After clicking, the item is set. It remains to connect it. They do it according to the scheme. The corresponding wires are inserted into the terminals and with a screwdriver tighten the contact, tightening the screw. It is not necessary to tighten it too much - you can pass the wire.

They work when the power is off, all circuit breakers are switched to the "off" position. Try to do not handle the wires with both hands... Having connected several elements, turn on the power (input breaker), then turn on the installed elements in turn, checking them for short circuit (short circuit).

The phase from the input is fed to the input machine, from its output it goes to the corresponding RCD input (put a copper jumper). In some schemes, the neutral wire from the water is fed directly to the corresponding input of the RCD, and from its output it goes to the bus. The phase wire from the output of the protective device is connected to the connecting manifold of the machines.

In modern schemes the input machine is two-pole: he must simultaneously disconnect both wires (phase and zero) in order to completely de-energize the network in the event of a malfunction: this is safer and these are the latest electrical safety requirements. Then the circuit for switching on the RCD looks like in the photo below.

Watch the video about installing an RCD on a DIN rail.

After the required number of devices are installed on the mounting rail, their inputs are connected. As mentioned earlier, this can be done with wire jumpers or a special connecting comb. See the photo for how the wire connection looks.

There are two ways to make jumpers:

• Cut the conductors of the required lengths, expose their edges and bend them in an arc. Insert two conductors into one terminal, then tighten.
• Take a sufficiently long conductor, strip 1-1.5 cm of insulation after 4-5 cm. Take round-nose pliers and bend the bare conductors so that you get interconnected arcs. Insert these bare areas into the corresponding slots and tighten.

They do this, but electricians talk about the poor quality of the connection. It is safer to use special tires. Under them on the case there are special connectors (narrow slots, closer to the front edge), into which the bus contacts are inserted. These tires are sold by the meter, cut into pieces of the required length with conventional wire cutters. After inserting it and installing the supply conductor in the first of the machines, twist the contacts on all connected devices. Watch the video on how to connect the machines in the dashboard using a bus.

A phase wire is connected to the output of the machines, which goes to the load: to household appliances, to sockets, switches, etc. Actually, the assembly of the shield is complete.

The choice of machines in the house or apartment dashboard

Three types of devices are used in the electrical panel:

• Machine. Disconnects and turns on the power in manual mode, and also operates (breaks the circuit) in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.
• RCD(residual current device). It monitors the leakage current that occurs when the insulation breaks down or if someone handles the wires. When one of these situations occurs, the chain is broken.
• Dif. machine(). This is a device that combines two in one case: it controls the presence of a short circuit and a leakage current.

Differential machines are usually installed instead of a bundle - RCD + machine. This saves space in the panel - less space is required by one module. Sometimes this is important: for example, you need to turn on another power line, and there is no place for installation, as there is no free machine.

In general, two devices are often installed. Firstly, it is cheaper (diff.automatic devices are more expensive), and secondly, when one of the protective devices is triggered, you know exactly what happened and what you need to look for: short circuit (if the circuit breaker was turned off) or leakage and possible overcurrent (triggered RCD). When the difavtomat is triggered, you will not find this. Unless you put a special model that has a checkbox showing which malfunction the device has triggered.

Automatic circuit breakers

Circuit breakers selectable by current, which is necessary for consumers of this group. It is calculated simply. Add up the maximum powers of all devices connected at the same time in the group, divide by the mains voltage - 220 V, you get the required current power. You take the rating of the device a little more, otherwise, when all loads are turned on, it will turn off due to overload.

For example, adding up the power of all devices in the group, we get a total value of 6.5 kW (6500 W). Divide by 220 V, we get 6500 W / 220 V = 29.54 A.

The ratings of the machines for current can be as follows: (in A) 6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63. The closest larger to the given value is 32 A. We are looking for this.

Types and types of RCDs

RCDs have two types of action: electronic and electronic-mechanical... The difference in price for a device with the same parameters is large - electronic-mechanical ones are more expensive. But you need to buy them for a dashboard in a house or apartment. There is only one reason: they are more reliable, since they work regardless of the presence of power, and for the operation of electronic ones, power is required.

For example, the situation is this: you are repairing the wiring, for example, an outlet and disconnected the network for this - you turned off the introductory machine. In the process, insulation was damaged somewhere. If an electro-mechanical RCD is installed, it will work even if there is no power supply. You will understand that you did something wrong and you will look for the reason. Electronic without power supply is inoperative and turning on the network with damaged insulation may have problems.

To understand which of the devices is in front of you, it is enough to have a small battery and a couple of wires at hand. Apply battery power to any pair of RCD contacts. In this case, the electro-mechanical will work, the electronic will not. More on this in the video.

• AC type - alternating sinusoidal current;
• type A - alternating current + pulsating direct current;
• type B - AC + pulsating DC + rectified current.

Turns out that type B gives the most complete protection but these devices are very expensive. For a house or apartment panel, it is quite enough, type A but not AC, which are mostly sold as they are cheaper.

Besides the type RCD, it is selected by current. Moreover, according to two parameters: rated and leakage... A nominal is one that can go through the contacts and not destroy (fuse) them. The rated current of the RCD is taken one step higher than the rated current of the machine installed in tandem with it. If the machine is needed for 25 A, then take the RCD for 40 A.

The leakage current is still simpler: only two ratings are put into electrical distribution boards for an apartment and a house - 10 mA and 30 mA. 10 mA is put on a line with one device, for example, a gas boiler, a washing machine, etc. as well as in premises where a high degree of protection is required: in a nursery or a bathroom. Accordingly, a 30 milliampere RCD is installed in lines that include several consumers (devices) - on sockets in the kitchen, rooms. Such protection is rarely installed on the lighting line: there is no need, except for the street or in the garage.

There are also RCDs with different response delays. They are of two types:

• S - selective - triggers after a certain time after the appearance of the leakage current (quite a long period of time). They are usually placed at the entrance. Then, in the event of an emergency, the device on the damaged line is turned off first. If the leakage current remains, then the "senior" selective RCD will operate - usually the one at the input.
• J - also triggers with a delay (protection against accidental currents), but with much less. This type of RCD is placed in groups.

Dif-machines are of the same types how RCD and are selected in the same way. Only when determining the power by current, you immediately consider the load and determine the rating.

For a few explanations on the installation of a built-in cabinet for the dashboard, see the connection procedure in the video from a practitioner and a wide-profile specialist.

One important detail that is important for safety. There is a "test" button on the RCD or differential machine. When it is pressed, a leakage current is artificially created and the device must work - the switch goes into the "off" position and the line is de-energized. This is how the performance is checked. This should be done at least once a month: to be sure of the reliability of protection. Check all the RCDs in the circuit one by one. It is important.

Probably, this is all the information that is needed to assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. Maybe you still need to learn more about how to break the load into groups, about this.

An apartment or house panel, for a person far from an electrician, is a box with some gizmos, an electric meter and a bunch of wires inside. It is not clear why everything is there and what is the use of it. And it is completely unclear by what logic it was assembled. And most importantly, it's just scary to climb there.

If you have such thoughts and reactions to the installation of an electrical panel in a private house or apartment - congratulations! You are an intelligent person. Because an electrical panel is a really difficult and unsafe thing. In order to correctly design and assemble a distribution board, you need to know a lot.

In short, the assembly of an electrical panel in an apartment is impossible without:

• electrical wiring project;
• choosing the right place for installation;
• flap assembly diagrams;
• the correct choice of housing (metal or plastic, built-in or hinged);
• competent selection of components;
• correct installation of equipment;
• competently connecting the shield to the power cable.

Attention! Any mistake will make the equipment work unsafe, and this will affect all electrics in the house and your household appliances. Therefore, the installation of the switchboard should only be carried out by an experienced electrician!

And we will tell you about how the shield is arranged, what schemes are there, what is inside the case and other subtleties. So that you can check the work of the master and understand why this or that part was chosen.

1. Buy a ready-made electrical panel for installation in an apartment or assemble it yourself

1. Choosing a location

Let's start with the simplest part - where to place the switchboard in the apartment? It is most convenient to place it near the front door in the hallway. In this case, you do not have to pull the power cable far from the platform. The most optimal height option is at the eye level of an adult. And it is convenient to take meter readings, and turn off the machines if necessary.

For supporters to cram everything under the ceiling, “for greater safety, as they say they used to hang meters before,” let's say the following. Old electricity meters with plug fuses were simply mounted on the wall without drawers, and therefore hung under the ceiling. The modern electrical panel has a sturdy housing and is lockable so that children will not get in unless you drop the key in a prominent place.

When choosing a place for mounting the shield in a private house or cottage, you need to consider where and how the cable is installed or will be started from the overhead line or underground supply line. Data on external networks can be obtained from the local power supply company.

2. Buy a ready-made electrical panel for installation in an apartment or assemble it yourself

As the old song says, "how much progress has come," that you can buy a ready-made shield with a full filling. If your electrician offers such a “proprietary” build design, don't be alarmed. Shields are assembled by enterprises and electrical installation firms, including on order or for standard projects of apartment wiring.

The main point that needs to be clarified is whether your master has worked with ready-made shields before or this is the first experience. If he has installed a dozen or two of such assemblies and knows their features, then feel free to agree. But if you are a guinea pig for the first experiment, refuse. Better to collect it himself, with pens, in the old fashioned way.

3. Switchboard elements

The scheme of the dashboard in the apartment is one of the main points, but before dealing with it, let's see what elements are included in the design. So that you understand the designations and composition of the wiring diagram.

Usually, when installing the shield, use:

1. Introductory machine... It is put to protect the entire wiring circuit. The cores of the main incoming cable are connected to the terminals of the input machine. For convenient work with the electrical panel, a switch is often installed in front of the input machine. It allows you to de-energize the entire assembly for replacement of elements, safe prevention and completely cuts off the power supply to an apartment or house. In this case, the power cable is connected to the switch.
2. Electricity meter. It is installed after the introductory machine and counts the power consumption in the house or apartment. Sometimes the meter stands separately, up to the dashboard, along with an automatic shutdown. For example, at the site of an apartment building.
3. Residual current device- designed to protect against electric shock and prevent fires. The RCD in the circuit can be as one installed after the meter, for example, in a one-room apartment with a small load. Or they put several RCDs on separate lines with high consumption (on an electric stove, washing machine, air conditioner).
4. Linear machines... Needed for separate lines for different rooms, household appliances and lighting. Open the circuit if an overcurrent or short circuit is detected, protect the wiring and connected equipment from damage. The operation of the machine can prevent fire due to heating and ignition of the wire.
5. Diffautomat of protection- can be installed instead of a pair of automatic machine + RCD on separate power lines of electrical appliances.
6. DIN rail- mounting element for equipment installation. Fastened to the rear wall of the electrical panel housing. Depending on the size of the cabinet, the number of DIN rails and the possible number of installed modules may be different. In order not to be mistaken with the purchase of the shield case according to the number of modules, it is necessary to draw up a wiring diagram.
7. Connecting busbars... Needed to connect and connect working zeros and ground wires. In the shield, both zero terminal strips and grounding ones are used.
8. Distribution busbars... Installed for the "bundle" of linear automata, RCDs, difavtomats. The combs have reliable insulation and allow you to quickly and safely connect a number of machines through the input terminal block. They can be used for both current conductor and working zero.

4. Diagram of the electrical panel in the apartment

Is the diagram always used when installing the shield? No, not always, but only a master with extensive experience and experience in electrical installation can assemble a switchboard for wiring in an apartment without a circuit. When you make shields constantly and hundreds a year - the scheme is imprinted in the head. That is, in fact, it always exists, it is simply not drawn on paper.

Well, if the diagram is printed and you are interested in understanding what kind of rectangles and lines are shown there - let's figure it out together.

What are the schemes and what is indicated on them

The diagram should indicate everything, from the input machine to the limit switches on the lines. Moreover, not just squares are drawn, but the full designation with the denomination and protection class is spelled out. This diagram will come in handy when replacing modules or adding new ones.

Let's now look at different options for the assembly of the panel in the apartment.

For housing in the old foundation (wiring without grounding)

In Soviet-built houses and reconstructed old buildings, the wiring is not grounded. Therefore, there is no grounding PE bus in the electrical panel circuit.

For a one-room apartment, we use the simplest version of the shield. Its design will include:

• enclosure with din rails;
• two-pole introductory machine for 32 Amperes;
• electric meter (for example, "Mercury 201" is indicated);
• RCD 2P 40A at 30mA;
• 3 single-pole machines for 16 A (lighting, sockets, washing machine);
• zero PEN-bus (for separate connection of zero and protection).

Attention! For safe operation, wiring in such circuits separates the zero working and protective conductors in the cable on the PEN bus, even in the absence of a ground loop.

To protect against voltage surges during "zero burnout" due to dilapidated house wiring, a voltage control relay is added to the shield circuit. It is triggered when the insulation breaks down and the phase and neutral wires come into contact, breaks the circuit and protects household appliances from damage.

For two-three-room apartments, such a scheme is extended to the required number of linear automata. And on outlet lines with large household appliances, for example, a washing / dishwasher, additional two-pole RCDs with a lower rating (16-25A / 10mA) are installed to protect against electric shock. This allows for high safety even without a ground wire.

Diagram of an electrical panel in an apartment with an RCD and grounding

If the house is new or the cable at the entrance has been changed and a ground loop has been installed, then the layout of the apartment panel will be different. For example, let's take also a one-room apartment with an electric stove in the kitchen.

When installing the switchboard, you must use:

• plastic box with 2 rows of din-rails;
• two-pole input automatic machine for 40 A;
• single-phase electric meter;
• RCD 2P 50 A at 30 mA;
• 4 single-pole package switches (three for 16 A and one for 25 A - for the stove);
• zero bus (working zero N) and grounding bus (PE);
• comb bus (for connecting machines).

Attention! An electric meter with a rating of 40 A with this version of the circuit is installed on the site or in a separate box, paired with an automatic shutdown. But it can be added to the plan and placed between the introductory machine and the RCD.

In an apartment with a large number of rooms and cable lines for powerful equipment, it is necessary to install additional RCDs for 2 poles with a rating of 16-25A / 10 mA. They react more quickly to small leaks and protect against electric shock.

For example, washing machines are often “shocked” due to internal wiring problems. And if you touch them with wet hands, you can get a tangible blow. This is extremely dangerous, especially for children or people with a weak heart. The RCD on the machine's connection line will feel the jumps and turn off the power at the first contact of the bare wire with the case.

Both variants of circuits, with and without grounding, are designed for networks with a voltage of 220 volts, which is used in most residential buildings in the city. But some buildings are powered by 380 volts and the circuitry of apartment electrical panels in them is much more complicated.

Shield circuit for an apartment with a three-phase power network

In new houses, for example, in town houses, a 380 volt network is installed and the corresponding wiring is made in the housing. The electrical panel diagram for an apartment of this type is more complicated and uses three-phase and single-phase devices. The electricity meter is usually installed separately on the site, paired with a three-pole automatic shutdown or a circuit breaker.

In principle, such an assembly can also be used for a private house with three-phase power supply. But with the obligatory installation of a general fire-prevention RCD. It is not necessary to install it in the apartment if there are separate devices on the lines.

To mount the shield you will need:

• case with DIN rails;
• three-pole input automatic machine for 63 Amperes;
• three-phase meter;
• two-pole RCD 40 A for 30 mA (to protect the lighting lines of bathrooms, washing machine and room outlets);
• linear machines for 1 pole (nominal 16, 25, 40 A);
• additional two-pole difavtomats for wiring 16A / 30mA kitchen sockets and a hydromassage bath (25A / 30mA), they can be replaced with a pair of RCDs + an automatic machine of similar characteristics;
• zero tires and protective;
• comb tires.

The circuit can be supplemented with an additional RCD for the electric stove (2P 25A / 30 mA).

A panel in an apartment with a three-phase electric stove

In some houses, a three-phase network cable comes to the entrance to the apartments, but the voltage of 380 volts is used only to connect the electric stove. All other wiring is done for a single-phase network and the shield is combined.

At the entrance there is a 63 A three-pole input circuit breaker (after the switch), then a three-phase meter. Further, the power wire is run along two different branches. In the first one, extra phases are removed and the shield circuit and electrical wiring with one phase at 220 Volts are mounted. The second branch is left unchanged and three phases are led to the electric stove with a straight wire.

A three-pole automatic machine for 20A or 32A (depending on the power of the electric stove) and a four-pole RCD with an excess of the machine's rating in amperes per step, i.e. for a 20A circuit breaker, you should take an RCD 25A / 30mA, for a 32A circuit breaker - an RCD 40A / 30mA. Or they put a difavtomat with similar characteristics for current (20A or 32A) and leakage (30 mA).

When installing the wiring, a three-phase five-core power cable with a current load of 20 to 32 Amperes and a special socket and plug for connecting an electric stove are used.

If, instead of the stove, a separate panel and a separate oven are placed, then you will have to pull two connection lines. On the panel - three-phase, on the cabinet, most often single-phase, with the installation of appropriate automatic devices and RCDs. (You can read about the choice of outlets for the oven and hob)

Refrigerator for a separate machine

Often, in the dashboard circuits in the apartment, a separate line is made for the refrigerator in order to turn off everything except it. This allows you not to empty the refrigerator from supplies during a vacation or business trip, and at the same time to de-energize everything else for safety.

5. Switchboard in a private house

Houses are different, like apartments, and the schemes in them are just as different. But they can be divided into 2 groups: for wiring for 220 V and 380 V.

Distribution board for electrical wiring for 220 V in a private house

For small-format suburban housing or a country house, a complex assembly is not needed. There is no heavy load, and therefore the circuit resembles a simple electrical panel for a one-room apartment.

For installation you will need:

• box with a DIN rail;
• 40 Ampere introductory two-pole switch;
• electricity meter (single-phase, corresponding to the current rating of the input automatic machine, single or multi-tariff);
• bipolar difavtomat or RCD for 50 A / 30 mA;
• package switches / circuit breakers for 1 pole (according to the number of load lines, with a rating of 16 A for lighting and sockets and a rating of 25-40 A for a powerful load, for example, a stove);
• zero bus;
• protective bus;
• insulated connecting comb.

If there are more working lines than on the diagram, for example, there is also a garage and a workshop, then we add machines for them and install additional RCDs to protect against current leaks due to breakdowns on the case and damage to the wiring. In a garage or workshop, this is necessary due to high humidity and lack of heating. It is better to put an extra RCD with a small value than to "catch" an electric shock in a damp room.

Assembling a panel for a private house with a three-phase network

If the house is large, like a cottage, then it is most often powered by a three-phase network. There is a lot of wiring both in residential premises and in outbuildings. Therefore, the project turns out to be serious and many elements are needed for assembly.

The electrical panel diagram for the home includes:

• body with 2-3 rows of DIN rails;
• introductory machine for 3 poles 63A;
• three-phase electric meter (at a current rating of 63 A);
• four-pole RCD 80 A at 300 mA (for general fire protection of the wiring loop);
• distribution busbars;
• automatic switches 1P for individual load groups (light - 16A, sockets - 25A, powerful household appliances and outbuildings - 40A);
• additional two-pole RCDs with a rating of 10/16/30 mA to protect individual groups: sockets, garage (the current is an order of magnitude higher than in machines from 25 to 50 Amperes);
• three-pole circuit breaker for 20 A and RCD 4P for 25 A with a leakage current of up to 30 mA for connecting an electric stove or a 20A / 30 mA difavtomat;
• zero busbars and protective PE bus;
• comb tires.

The power of the fire-fighting RCD of 300 milliamperes is selected for the total load and significant background leaks. It is designed to protect wiring from fire due to short circuits or insulation damage. For the safety of individual circuits against electric shocks, devices with a lower rating are installed in order to react to a leak in the protected line.

The house uses a voltage of 220 V for lighting and sockets for household appliances, as well as a 380 V line for powering an electric stove. A branch of a single-phase network goes to the outbuildings.

If you need to power a three-phase load, you can add another power circuit with an outlet outside the house. Or put an automatic machine, an RCD and a 380 V outlet inside the house to connect the load through an extension cord. This option is suitable if the equipment will be turned on very rarely.

6. How to choose a case for an electrical panel in an apartment or house

Since all the elements from the circuit are installed inside the shield body, you need to choose it after developing the installation plan. So that everything you need fits and there is a stock left for adding components. We got a scheme for 42 modules, which means we take the case for 46, or we take 66 places, and we take the cabinet for 72.

Free space will allow you to connect a new line or pair, if the need arises. For example, we bought more household appliances, but the cable and sockets in the kitchen / bathroom will not pull the total load and it is necessary to "throw" an additional one. Or they changed the plate to a more powerful one and it needs a cable with different characteristics. Therefore, it is better to take a cabinet with a margin of the number of modules, than then change it to a new one and reassemble the entire shield.

It is taken into account when choosing a case and a reserve of space for connecting wires and connecting groups of machines. During installation, the safety distance between the elements must be observed. You cannot push them and the wires close, tamping them like a sprat in a bank.

Types of electrical panel housing

All cases or, as they are also called, boxes can be divided according to two main characteristics:

• material of manufacture (metal, plastic).
• installation method (hinged, built-in).

Metal cabinets most often they are mounted and mounted on the wall. They are produced both in the usual design with the degree of protection IP 31-43, and moisture resistant with IP 44-54. To assemble the shield in a house or apartment, a conventional case is sufficient, it is unlikely that it will get caught in the rain or will be placed next to the water supply pipes. Sealed boxes are useful for outdoor installation and are not of interest to us.

There are models of metal cabinets for installation in a niche, if you like metal and want to remove the cabinet into the wall - choose this one.

Plastic shields available for both wall and in-niche mounting. You can choose a plastic wardrobe for small assemblies (in apartments / country house) and for complex multi-component shields (cottage, country house, large apartment). In terms of strength and IP protection, they are not inferior to metal ones.

Advice! When choosing a shield for a niche, make it slightly larger than the body in width and height. It is much easier to fix the installed flap with foam or alabaster in a large opening than to push it back to back into a niche.

Number of modules and filling of boxes

Enclosures are sold with installed din rails for a certain number of modules, it is indicated in the product name. Din rails are mounting rails for installed equipment. Automatic devices, RCDs, counters have special latches that fix them on the rail.

The number of modules is the number of elements of one module that can fit on the rails. If an element occupies more than one module in width, then fewer elements will fit into the body. To determine the required number, it is necessary to add the sizes of all circuit elements in modules, taking into account the margin for the distance between the parts.

Some models are equipped with DIN rails with end caps that can be removed. This frees up space for additional items. But it is better to take a cabinet with a reserve of the number of modules, as we have already said (for example, we counted 66 modules, we buy a box for 72).

To connect working neutral and protective conductors, special buses are used. In some models of cabinets, they are installed, but most often, when assembling the shield, they must be purchased separately.

7. The body of the dashboard in the apartment in the online store website

RCD

The circuit may have one residual current device for all wiring, it is also called a general fire-prevention RCD, and separate ones - on lines with a large load. The rating of the general fire-prevention RCD by current in amperes is theoretically equal to the rating of the machine, but from practical experience it is better to install a protective device with a large indicator. This will protect the RCD from damage during overload. In such cases, the machine does not work instantly, but after some time there is a danger that the protective device will burn out. But if the RCD rating is higher than that of the machine, it will easily tolerate an overload of even 30-40%.

The magnitude of the differential current depends on the total wiring load. For simple circuits, a 30 mA RCD is enough, for complex and loaded ones, they take 100 mA and even 300 mA. The main task of a fire-fighting RCD is protection against short circuits and fires.

Suitable as general ones:

RCDs on the lines usually have a differential current of 10 mA, they must quickly respond to minimal leakage, but according to the recommendations of the PUE, equipment with 30 mA can also be installed. At the nominal total current, it is also better to take a "protection" with a larger value, that is, on a socket line in a pair to a 25 A circuit breaker, preferably a 40 A RCD.

For lighting, we take a 25-ampere RCD to a 16 A switch.

Good day, dear guests and readers of the site "Notes of an Electrician".

Just yesterday, one of the relatives asked me at his entrance. We did not postpone the replacement indefinitely, because The meter was already bought from him, and I always carry mine with me in the car.

The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was on his landing in the floor board.

In this article, I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor panel itself and its diagram.

So let's go.

I will say right away that the purpose of replacing an electric meter is that, you must agree, it has a number of advantages over metering electricity at one general tariff.

If you are still thinking about which counter to buy, then I recommend reading the articles on how to correctly and.

As I said above, my relative's old meter was on the staircase (cage) in the floor board.

The floor board is designed to receive and distribute electrical energy to the apartments of citizens-consumers. Also, its main purpose is to protect outgoing lines to apartments from overloads.

And now let's take a closer look at what the floor panel consists of and the scheme of its connections.

What does a floor panel for 3 apartments consist of?

I forgot to mention that there are 3 apartments on the landing, which means that the floor board is intended for 3 apartments and no more. This is how it looks:

To be more precise, this floor board has the designation ШЭ-3302. Let's decipher:

• SHE - floor shield
• 3 - has a compartment for low-current and low-voltage networks
• 3 - for 3 apartments
• 02 - execution of the shield circuit (I will talk about it just below)

The floor board of this marking consists of 3 sections:

• introductory
• distribution
• for low-current and low-voltage networks

Each compartment is closed with its own door. Viewing windows are provided for removal.

Now let's talk about each department separately.

Introductory office in the floor board

The entrance section of the floor board consists of main wires that go through special channels (interfloor voids). The wiring of the main lines is made of four-wire, with a wire of the APV brand (aluminum), with a cross section of 16 sq. Mm s.

All three phases of the main wires (A, B and C), as well as zero (PEN), are connected to the terminal blocks without breaking the wire itself. This can be clearly seen in the photograph.

From these terminal blocks, aluminum wires of the APV brand, with a cross section of 4 sq.mm, go to the distribution compartment.

Distribution room of the floor board

The distribution compartment of the floor board consists of a removable frame on which special strips are located for. In our case, there are electricity meters for three apartments.

Also on this frame are DIN rails for group lines of apartments and packet switches, which are covered by a protective panel.

Compartment for low-voltage and low-current networks

There is one more compartment left in the floor board, which we have not considered. This is a compartment for low-voltage and low-current networks. It runs telephone and intercom cables, burglar alarm lines, internet and satellite dishes. I did not take a photo of this department, because there was no need to look there.

Floor board scheme

The floor board layout is shown below.

As I said above, the trunk wires are connected to the terminal blocks without breaking. There are 4 terminal blocks in total: phase A, B and C, as well as zero block PEN.

From the terminal blocks, wires of the APV brand with a cross section of 4 sq. Mm go to the packet switches in the following order.

• phase A and zero goes to the package of apartment No. 2
• phase B and zero go to the bag of apartment no. 3
• phase C and zero go to the bag of apartment No. 1

Further, from each bag, the wires go to the electric energy meter of the corresponding apartment. The wires go from the electric meter to 3 group machines. Two machines have a rated current of 16 (A), and one has a rated current of 25 (A). From these group machines, the wires go to different distribution boxes of the apartment.

Hello Dmitry. But there must be some lower limit, below which the supplying organization must not go over. This refers to a three-phase power supply. According to the documents, the total allocated power for the house is 5 kW. The lead to the house is new SIP 4a-16mm. The overhead line is also in good condition. For heating, a ttk is provided and three heating elements are installed in parallel with it. I don’t know the power, now it’s questionable until spring. But if we take at a minimum of 1 kW, then 2 kW remains for life. For winter, it turns out a little. Is there anything you can do to increase the power?
In one of your articles, you wrote that power limiters are not legal. And if there is a "smart" meter and it is programmed to turn off the power when the power is exceeded. As then?

Hello Dmitry.

With the TN-C system, grounding in the apartment (without upgrading to the TN-C-S system) cannot be done. It is also impossible to connect the PE contact to the N contact in the home outlet (i.e., zeroing), because if the PEN conductor burns out anywhere to this outlet (at the entrance to the apartment or on the floor below), the enclosures of electrical appliances will be energized. In this regard, two questions:
1. Why, then, is it allowed to nullify the boards on the landing (as in your case)? Indeed, when the PEN conductor burns out somewhere before this shield (on the floors below), the same thing will happen as when it is zeroed - that is, it will be under the "residual" potential, "coming" from the zeros of all apartments located above the place of burnout , respectively, presenting the danger of electric shock to any person passing and touching this shield?
2. If, nevertheless, the neutralization of the common board is allowed, is it possible, as some electricians do ("having no other opportunity with the TN-C system"), to put the PE conductor of the apartment sockets on the body of the common board? Wouldn't this be the same as if grounding was done in the home socket, and therefore unacceptable?

Thank you so much))) Very good site)))

THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the site! The information is presented very clearly and will be useful for both beginners and professional electricians!

Interestingly, if in this dashboard we replace 1 machine 25A + 2 machine 16A with one machine 40A, will this not be a violation? House management will not fine?

I did this after replacing these switches and transferring the meter to the apartment. After the packet switch, I connected a 40 (A) machine, from which the lead-in cable went to the apartment switchboard, where the meter and group machines were installed. But in order to do this, you need to agree on the nominal value of the input machine with the power supply company. Come to them at office hours, tell them your situation. If you have little knowledge of electrics, then call an electrician with you.

Please tell me how the correct name and marking of the transit 3-phase block to which the phases in the dashboard are connected. In the last photo on the right. I have a slightly different design in the shields (above the counters with a loop through a bolt). It is very necessary for revising the shields, but on the Internet I can not find it for purchase.

Dear Admin, please tell me according to the current standards, is it necessary to hang tags indicating the purpose and cross-section of conductors, both phase and zero in floor boards?

Valery, according to PTEEP, clause 2.4.5. Openly laid cables must be provided with tags, on the cable tags at the beginning and end of the line, the brand, voltage, section, number or name of the line must be indicated.

Good afternoon!
If possible, I would like to know the answer to the question from Sergey on 01/30/2014 at 21: 49 ...
Thank you!

Another question) The dashboard scheme is similar (only we have 2 group machines per apartment). Wiring aluminum, PE no. We are doing a partial renovation of the apartment and would like to make a partial modification of the electrics (without reworking what there is and reworking the floor panel), but organizing several additional groups of consumers: 1 (bathroom - washing machine + hairdryer), 2 (kitchen - built-in electric stove + electric ignition of the gas panel) 3 Kitchen (refrigerator - socket group of the kitchen apron (microwave oven, blender ... kettle) and 4 - stationary computer (+ peripherals) and TV with DVD. Wiring 3x2.5 copper, without PE connection to the panel.
It is supposed to organize a small apartment panel for ouzo and automatic machines only on the given consumers.
Question: how to correctly and competently make a branch from the floor board to the apartment? From one of the machines and a ground bus? or how? In this case, you need to enter the input with an aluminum wire, and then switch to copper in a small shield through the machine?

Thanks!!!

To your question - read it. I talked there about the modernization of the floor board.

Yesterday I changed the meter due to overestimated readings, someone had already turned off the shield very carelessly on their machines leaving the meter, they found a wire when it was turned off, nothing turned off in my apartment (in the evening a neighbor came, it turned out it was her kitchen socket), a wire from shutdown of which in her apartment nothing turned off (and the third neighbor also did not turn off). Only one phase of 16 sq. Now the question remains - who has a zero on which counter ?! By the way, my kitchen outlet with grounding also did not pass through my zero from the meter, but went directly to the common zero bus along with grounding (meaning zero from the outlet and grounding) to zero leaving from my meter, two wires going into the apartment are suitable for the load - one exactly mine, the other must be phoned where he is going. The question is

I am going to install LED lamps in the entrance and above the visor instead of the cobra in the whole house 6 entrances and 9 floors. The desire to turn on the timer, and those and others. Tell me where the power supply of the MOS comes from, if from the switchboard, then it is possible to combine all the entrances into 2 groups? and manage them from one place?

Good afternoon! Tell me how many outgoing vending machines can be put on floor panels for 3 apartments for 1 apartment? in a typical project of a residential building with gas heating on outgoing lines for 1 apartment, there are 3 machines for 16A, we have a project with electric stoves and we need to put an automatic machine for 25A 220V, a 6 kW stove. Do you need to replace one machine for 16A with 25A, or can you additionally add one machine for 25A?

Good afternoon!
There was a question of replacing the counter. Everything is as in the photographs, but there are no bags, although they are on the floor below. How to disconnect the voltage in this case? In fact, if you hold the wire with pliers and unscrew the wires with a screwdriver, it won't kill you ?! And then also connect the counter back ?! How to install a din rail with your own machines so as not to remove your neighbor's machines, they are structurally installed on the same rail? If aluminum is suitable for the meter, then copper can be brought from it to the machines, and then the old aluminum wiring goes further from each machine?
If you put a bag (or an automatic machine, then by how many Amperes) in front of the meter, then from it to the meter and from the meter to the machines, copper with subsequent aluminum of the old wiring is allowed?

I also want to install a separate machine on the washing machine. I just don't know how to carry VVGng 3x2.5 into the kitchen. Electricians propose to make the input along the site to the bathroom, lower it along the water / sewer risers further through the bathroom to the kitchen, is PES allowed? Are there any schemes for the wiring channels in the brezhnevka?

World 150914 for a stove is better than 32 A, for a socket part 16A, for lighting 10A, again depending on how many rooms will need to share the load

Alexey 111014, practically possible, only the pliers should be with insulated handles, and a dielectric screwdriver, and if you have no experience it is better not to risk it and call an electrician
Din rail can be put on, you can loosen the screws on the bar and pull out the old machines,
You can lead copper from the meter, but if you are going to change the meter or turn it off, it would be wiser to throw copper up to it,
In front of the counter, if you ride, put 50A or 40A
It is better to lead along the corridor in the cable channel, without any toilets and bathrooms
Not PES but PUE

Good evening, tell me please, I am interested in the question about circuit breakers. The wiring in the apartment was changed, but so far I did not manage to change the input machine in the corridor for an apartment (the old one was 25A). When the stove was working at home (there was a separate machine for it in apartment 40A), a short circuit occurred, the machine turned off in the introductory corridor (as I understood it is weaker than on the stove - therefore, the bouncer), changed the introductory machine to 50A, I think now when the stove is working it will be directly kick out in an apartment for 40A. I turn on the stove, after a few minutes there is no light anywhere. I climbed into the shield, the automatic plate 40A was knocked out, I went out into the corridor - the input machine for my apartment was knocked out - 50A and the input to the 63A floor was knocked out. Why did 3 get kicked out at once? Should it be only directly on the stove?

And what kind of wiring you have, maybe because of a thermal overload and chops, and the wire on the stove heats the neighboring ones

What do you mean? All new VVGng wires, laid on the 3 * 4 plate

Look for kz, but you need to put the machine gun on the stove 32A

The same shield. The stove is gas, therefore, a separate, non-working zero, "zero" from the shield body does not come to the apartment.

Question. Washing machine in the bathroom. We take and equalize the potentials of all available pieces of iron - we connect the bath, all available risers with a thick copper jumper. You can even organize a copper bus and connect each riser with a separate wire to it. Metal pipes - they are in any way in the ground and they have an absolute zero potential.
We hang the body of the machine here. That is, we connect the PE sockets for the machine to our earthing switch. In a very bad case (if the leak and the machine gun did not knock out no one will kill anyone, because all the potentials are equalized by jumpers, there is no difference, but it is not the potential that kills, and it is the difference - the birds are sitting on high-voltage wires, and nothing to Neighbors either.
That is, as far as I understand, we get something in the form of a TT system with a ground electrode from water-heating pipes.
But a potential equalization system can be made, but a ground electrode in the form of water pipes cannot be used. The question is why? I would like to hear - not because it is forbidden, but on specific examples of what this can lead to.

Serg, because now they often make tie-ins into risers from non-conductive elements. And in the event of a breakdown of insulation at the drain, a potential may form, the difference of which with the ground can kill (and not even necessarily you - but, for example, a neighbor from below)

And I will add ... Here you are, Serg, well done, that asked. And the same neighbor from below will not do this (consult and ask) (we are all smart). And the result will be, as in Alexey's answer, only exactly the opposite. That is, now you will be in the role of a neighbor.
Well, as a sub-option for inserting plastic: repairs are made on your riser with partial disassembly thereof. That's it - there is no ground electrode - get the same difference. Needless to say, it is considered "bad taste" to warn neighbors about ongoing work.

Hot water and cold water pipes must be grounded when entering the building!

AND…? Who can argue with that? Building entry is one thing. Yes, even if they are at least three times grounded: the owner of the apartment on the 3rd floor in a 9-storey building will replace his part of the riser with plastic (this is not prohibited) - "and, hello, Shishkin": the upper floors above this owner have no grounding of this riser.

Hello. I'm a little off topic, my mother just puzzled, decided to find the answer on the Internet and came across this site, saw that the person is a professional, so I hope you tell me. So my mother said that in the afternoon she received a call from a neighbor on the landing, who was with a neighbor's tenants from another floor. A neighbor asked for a key to the dashboard, saying that tenants from another floor want to connect to the Internet for themselves ... BUT! what does our shield have to do with it? Why does a person from the 3rd floor want to connect to the Internet via the 1st floor shield. Is some kind of fraud possible? Please comment on the situation

Anastasia, maybe they want to run an Internet cable through your shield to their floor. Look in the article, for this there is a special compartment in the switchboard (for low-voltage networks and low-current cables). In general, you can ask them directly. There is no fraud here.

[i] I didn’t remove the “Packetnik”, but when replacing the group machines with modern ones and reconstructing this shield, I will definitely remove it.

Why is this necessary?

if only because over time they begin to wedge and it is not possible to switch them without dismantling, and they do not have short circuit protection functions, according to its principle it is a switch or a load switch

And what do the entrance machines protect? Counter?

Counter, and cable to group vending machines

Answer: Pavel
19.12.2014 at 21:38
Pavel, a circuit breaker does not have to be installed in front of the meter. A switching device must be installed in front of the meter, which can be a load switch, circuit breaker or circuit breaker (Switch-disconnectors) whose task is only to remove voltage from all phases connected to the meter.
I am quoting paragraph of the PUE: 7.1.64. For safe replacement of a meter directly connected to the network, a switching device must be provided in front of each meter to remove voltage from all phases connected to the meter.

What is the shape of the key to open such a shield? THERE, where group machines, faked with a screwdriver and that's it, and besides, the door is always open. But the big door is a problem to open!

Alexei:
01/13/2015 at 20:09

Contact the ZhEK.

I have 2 Soviet black submachine guns and a counter according to the same scheme, only there are no aketniki. I will install Neva 101 (as I understand it will stand on the same holes). If you change the Soviet machines for 3 to 16 (the third is still in reserve). Should you put a vending machine between the counter? And which? All wiring is aluminum. What section is used (gas in the house)? Can you make an aluminum comb? To put machines on 4.5 kA? Indian schneiders EASY9 are very different from Bulgarian schneiders (at a price 2 times)?

I've been thinking for a month now, I got to the wire cross-section. I stopped at a copper 1x4 sq mm brand PUV.

Alexei:
01/20/2015 at 02:22

Between the meter and the input wire, it is better to put a 2-pole automatic machine for 20A., To install it, you need to buy and fix a din rail on the shield (the din rail is selected according to the width of the machine or taken longer, then sawn off to the desired size). The inspector will put a seal on the opening machine. The wire in old apartments with aluminum wire goes by 2.5 sq. Mm. there is no less. The comb, or rather the jumpers between the machines, can be made of an aluminum wire with a cross section of 4-6 sq. mm., but it is better to take copper as you want and start it from the meter to the input machine, make jumpers on the machines with the same wire, but I would buy a comb for 3 machines (in some stores it is cut to the desired length). Automatic machines for an apartment must be taken with characteristics B or C.

Good afternoon, The protective shields have been removed in the floor panel, the wires are twisted both before the metering device and after. This is after the intrusion of an electrician from the ZhEK. I wish to force the ZhEK to restore according to the PUE, Tell me which sections of these rules can I rely on in my appeal? Thank you in advance

Tell me at what distance the floor (common) panel should be located from the apartment? Is this provided for by the PUE or does not matter.

And the wires from the top to the shield are connected, if the difference is which wire to insert where? We have 3 wires!

Tatyana, do you mean the wires from the group machines going to the apartment? If yes, then you need to observe the polarity when connecting them - connect the phase to the machine, and zero to the zero block. I do not quite understand about "3 wires" - where do they go?

Hello, I would like to know how you can turn off (turn on) the wired Internet through the floor board?

Incorrect question. And what, the Internet is always through a floor board, and is certainly connected to the network? The Internet can also be supplied with optics, then you can turn it off in the classical way - from turning the plugs to cutting the wires. For the whole apartment ...

after a fire in one of the apartments on the 4th floor in the shield of the 5th floor, all the wires are covered with molten var (I don’t know what this material is called), in one of the apartments since November of this year the light (intermittent) began to blink, that is, no, but now almost every day, electricians they will come from the housing department to look, tighten the screws and that's it, time will pass, everything repeats itself, they say call the laboratory what to do?

I am writing about an apartment on the 5th floor. today an electrician came again, pressed the contacts, noticed that the entrance lamp was also blinking, my suggestion to clean the contacts, because the high temperature had some effect on their surface, said that he had been working as an electrician for 4 years, closed the box and left

Is it possible to independently replace the wires going from the bag to the counter and from the counter to the machines?

You can, if you can then independently seal the terminal compartment in the meter. There is a possibility?

Answer: Peter: 02/13/2016 at 06:55
Only qualified personnel are allowed to perform this type of work.

I will clarify whether it is possible to independently replace the wires going from the bag to the counter and from the counter to the machines during the planned replacement of the counter? I replaced the meter myself (according to all the rules of Mosenergosbyt), I did not like that the wires are aluminum. I would replace them too, while I am waiting for the sealant .. But there are doubts that I have the right to change them. On the counter, I wrote a statement for unsealing, etc., but what about the wires?

the bag breaks both conductors - and electrical work is performed without voltage. Should I have a permit? Is my confidence in my qualifications sufficient? If I change the wires, will I have to report to someone, like a meter to Mosenergo? I am more interested in organizational issues.

Answer: Peter: 02/15/2016 at 12:32
Peter electrical installation is energized. And by turning off the VP at your metering device, you did not de-energize the electrical installation. To do this, you need to make switching in the ASU. To de-energize your storey SCHUR. Therefore, you continue to work under voltage at your own peril and risk.
Yes, Peter, you must have an admission group and qualification of an electrician. You can, on your conscience, poke around in your apartment, this is your property and you can dispose of electrical installations in it as you want. But the Floor Board Taken into account Distribution is not your property. And if you make some mistakes during the period of any work without having, for example, the necessary skill or knowledge when connecting electrical appliances, this may end badly. Both for you and for your neighbors. Don't forget this.

Hello.
In the floor panel there is no disconnection of the load to the counter (neither an automatic machine, nor a bag).
Is it possible in this case to restart the counter?
There is a suspicion that the BARS-1.113 "brain freeze" counter.
Until you give a good load, he does not want to count the energy.
Everything is bad with the electricians in the housing office.

Yuri, this is unlikely to solve the problem. But nevertheless, if there are no switching devices in front of the meter (and, otherwise, this is a violation), then you can de-energize the main riser for a short time, although its disconnection must be ordered in advance from the company that serves you as an electrician.

Good time of the day, tell me please, if the outlet wires to the bag (we also plan to use it at 50a) are replaced with 6mm copper (a large power load from the apartment) and from the bag through the same 6mm can be brought into the apartment and assembled a shield with automatic devices there, you can how to do it? The counter is left with the old SO-I466.

Good time of the day!
I got a job in an energy sales company for the installation of metering devices and would like to ask.
We are not given the keys to the interfloor shields, such keys should only be in the housing, the key masters refuse to do it from the existing one, is it possible to buy a similar blank and modify it with a file, or you can still find a good key keeper, the key is, in principle, simple and a sample hands have

Vladimir, there is nothing for you to do in these shields without the consent of the owner

I know that the meters in the floor panel are located with an inverted letter P. But how should the machines be located according to the rules, if they are not in a line? There are 4 apartments on the floor. There is a suspicion that the cunning neighbor's family connected my RCDs for 25A to themselves, and I got it on 16A. Without even resorting to reinstalling them, they simply reconnected the wires. ((When the machine was triggered, out of habit, I looked at other machines. But a lot of time has passed since I was interested in my machines, I could have made a mistake.

Where does this knowledge of the data about P upside down come from? And what, in fact, is the difference - P is straight, or P is upside down, if they are there or so, or that way, but four?
No matter how they are placed, it is not difficult to trace with skill and understanding. But not with your fingers!

Elena, hello. To be honest, I do not quite understand you, namely, about the counters installed by the "inverted letter P". It is better to send me a photo by mail, or better to the Forum (link to it in the top menu of the site), there we will discuss all the points. Thanks.

We are talking about the location "inverted with the letter P" of apartment meters, i.e. the count was carried out from the upper left counter to the upper right through the bottom (upper left 1kw, lower left 2kv, lower right 3kv, upper right 4kw). This arrangement was adopted in the USSR just so that the tenants would not get confused and did not check by the shutdown-shutdown method to whom which counters belong, and even more so, did not climb on the dashboard. ???
In the distribution window, too, in a certain order (only what, if they are not in line?) Were the levers of the machines (for example, for temporary disconnection from the network to change the chandelier), the wiring of the tenants should not have been of interest.
After replacing the machines, I was happy for a long time to come to the distribution window. The other day, at night, from turning on a 180 kW chandelier for half an apartment, the electricity was cut off. From old memory, I looked into the distribution window - all four levers showed an operating condition. And the neighbors (according to my old memory of the location of their machines), just one of the 4 levers worked. It turned out that by location, these are now my machines. But memory can give me a lift!
I thought maybe you know the location of the machines according to the rules developed back in the USSR, if they are not in the same line ... Oops ...

where to find the switching diagrams of the cam batch switches. you need to connect the welding machine mss 1902

A novel, what specific type, brand, model ..., or "in general"? Then there are many options.

Elena, where did you see these "rules" and when? The USSR has not been for 25 years, during this time a lot could have changed in your RC. And to know where your machines are not according to the old and incomprehensible "rules", but specifically, even by signing them with a marker after checking. Then the memory will not give you a lift. Well, figure it out with the power - 180 kW is a bit too much.

Hello, I changed the meter in the apartment on Saturday, put the ESO 711, in two days he wound 12 kW, despite the fact that I usually do not spend more than 80 kW per month. on Thursday a representative of the PRUE will come to seal the meter.
The question is - is the counter defective or connected incorrectly ????

I will add a light flashing green, there were readings on the meter, but I don't remember if 1 kW or 10))

This means that you have consumed either 2 or 11 kW. Sort it out somehow, guessing and helping in such a situation is very difficult.

can it be connected incorrectly ?? although 4 contacts are there to be confused (

Dmitry, good afternoon.

1. Rather, Betar ESO-111, not ESO-711.
2. There is really nothing to be confused in a single-phase meter, either it will count, or there will be a short circuit. You have it counted a certain amount of electricity, which means it is most likely connected correctly.
3. As an option, and most likely it is - the old meter greatly underestimated the power consumption. For what reason did you replace it - as prescribed?
4. Alternatively, self-propelled. But that in two days 12 (kW) is too much. If the inspector comes to seal it - ask him and he will check the meter error and will definitely give an answer.
5. Correctly write off the readings ?!

counter SO-E711, with a digital display, I live in Kazakhstan a company manufacturer SAIMAT, it is unlikely that the light bulb (3200imp / kW hour) blinks quite rarely on self-propelled power, and most likely 10-11 kW on the counter was already this and annoying

In the passport of the meter, the value in kW * h was always written after the state verification and acceptance, did you look?

Well, in general, I pulled out this counter and changed it in the store which I took to a new one and put it on Tuesday at 15:00, today Thursday at 12:00 it already had 11 kW, i.e. about 5.5-6 kW / day. In short, the result from replacing the meter is zero.
There is a refrigerator in the apartment (one-room), nothing has been erased these days, half of the housekeeper's bulbs, the computer also works almost all the time, a couple of times a microwave oven, a couple of times an electric kettle, one person lives.
The counter was sealed today.
Somehow it turns out a little too much (
The electronic self-propelled meter should not seem to be, I did not find any extraneous connections in the shield to my machines and wiring, there are no outlets in the walls adjacent to the neighboring apartments either
CAN MY WIRING GIVE AN EXTRA LOAD ???

Dmitry, then your old meter greatly underestimated the readings. Everything turns out right. The refrigerator and the PC are, as you say, a constant load. Let's take it in a rounded way that together they consume 200 (W) or 0.2 (kW), maybe a little more, maybe a little less. You need to look at their specific characteristics or measure the current with clamps. So for 1 hour, the counter will count 0.2 (kWh). For a day, it will already be 4.8 (kWh). Plus lighting, microwave, etc. So you get 5-6 (kWh) per day.

Yes, I already thought so too, I figured the load, the computer there is powerful of course 24 hours a day does not work, but I think the power supply unit there is 600-700 watts, because a person works with computer graphics, since I myself do not live in an apartment, but I rent it in lease can not accurately determine the load on consumers, and the tenant can also confuse something. In general, thank you all for participating.

1 - it was not written - the sensitivity zone of the SE moved to the left by about an order of magnitude or more. If the wheel did not see the TV in standby mode, the rest is the same, then your electronic one, see the passport, will see the current, which is scanty in terms of the consumer's concepts. And there are a lot of such devices, which seem to be turned off, but still consume, in the house and everyone is eating, eating, eating like a moth ...
2- yesterday I turned on the cold-smoked ElZhi two-chamber through the device, which shows both the current, and the voltage, and the consumption. energy, from 8-00 yesterday to 12-30 today, 1.8 kWh of energy accumulated, let it be 1.6 kWh from 8 to 8, multiply by 30 and get.
3- walls- hardly. You either "tokalo", or warmed up somewhere, and the SE would not be silent.

good day. according to the neponyatka scheme. what is it from the net wire to the automatics. 40A is written over it? and what is it on the RSh 10A diagram. THANKS FOR THE ANSWER.

Automatic machines 40 A for electric stoves, 25 A sockets, 16 lighting. The outermost wire on the left and right group and the right one in the middle is like a ground to the plate.
The 10 ampere socket is a service one, it was in the switchgear, three-pin, it's just that everything is drawn clumsily. Take it on faith.

it is drawn that two machines for 16 and one for 25 are indicated in the brackets above, and 40 amperes above the zero output.

They drew as they could. There is an original metal plate with the same PCB, just like that it is painted. Well, the artist was not an electrician, what should you do?

Good afternoon! In the floor boards of the railway. there are no protective panels on the apartment machines. Tell me what material they can be made from (it will be problematic from metal).

Durable and non-combustible - textolite, getinax.

Please tell us, what is the point of fixing two apartments on a zero bus for one bolt, and the third for a separate one? To save space? This moment is reflected even in the diagram.

If you fix it separately, there will be no problems. Are there not enough absurdities in this white world? Here at least the wires are not charred along with the screw.

All the specialists - bow. My problem is that the electrician called at the request from Mosenergosbyt, d / replacement of the midpoint. 1985 SO-50, put NEVu. But the data from it very badly "got" into the viewing window of the electrical panel (staircase square on 4 square meters 5-floor. (Khrushch-ka "). refused to install, wrote in the act, in the apartment, he fastened the old one and did not seal it.
How to be? You need to go to the elkomp., I know, but which counter is suitable, they hardly know. They put what they have. They wanted to spit, as always, if only the money 4550 = "compacted". Will the computer make a claim to me about lack of a seal ??
Be so kind as to answer quickly, because you have to go to them, and they can easily “circle” the woman.
Thanks.

Svetlana, of course you were stupid by refusing to install the new Neva launcher. Firstly, no one will seal the old PU for you, since all the terms of its operation have expired (16 years + 16 more, if there was a verification). Secondly: it is not your problem that the readings are not visible, the shield is usually opened and the readings are written off either by the tenants themselves or by specialists authorized to do so (I don’t know about you, it’s different everywhere). You have only one way out - notify the company that seals the PU (meters) as soon as possible. But only to the one with whom you have concluded an agreement, her phone is on the receipt for payment of electricity, or in your management company (apparently this is "Mosenergosbyt"). And inform that you intend to replace the old PU with a new one, but since you removed the seal (although, in principle, your PU is considered unsuitable, and you were most likely removed for electricity according to the average or according to the standard) and tearfully ask them to install a new one. They will install the PU for you and seal them themselves. If this is not done, you will be charged a huge fine for negligence, believe me - this is really not a joke. Explain the situation, because you still have an act in your hands that it was not you who broke the seal. In general, the master had to initially outline the whole situation for you. But I haven’t seen anything like this before, to abandon the installation due to the fact that the numbers are not visible, this is simply unprecedented stupidity.

Why can't re-conductors from the apartment be connected to the shield body together with zero ones?

Good day. I was going to replace the old shovel plugs with circuit breakers. I have a five-story brick house (Khrushchevka), 68 years old, with four apartments per floor. On the staircase electrical panel, the plugs are divided into two rows of eight plugs each. There are four plugs for each apartment, two upper and two lower.
I have two upper plugs - rooms and sockets of these rooms, two lower plugs - an entrance hall, a bathroom, and a kitchen with an outlet. Any of the two traffic jams of any row turns off everything and the rooms and sockets of the same rooms. Here's how to determine which machine is 16A and which is 25A, then to be replaced with switches with the appropriate ratings. I am writing at length to fully describe the situation.

Good afternoon!
Unfortunately I joined the community late.
In the floor panels, AB-25 assault rifles or the like were installed, and
They were fastened with two screws to the rear panel and there could not be DIN rails. In Russia, the TN35 rail was introduced by the national standard GOST R IEC 60715-2003.

Alexander. post from 03/31/2017 at 23:48
A question for you. And where is the metering device (counter) between these "traffic jams", or ...?

My leftmost two top and two bottom, as well as a packet switch at the bottom of the far left, everything is in the photo. At the bottom there are four meters in a separate compartment, and there is also a compartment for low-current currents, and there is no access to both compartments, locked.

Alexander, first of all, you need to look at the cross-sections of outgoing cables or wires, depending on what you have laid from the shield to the apartment. And already knowing the cross-sections, select the correct value of the machine. , for example, using the same caliper.

my 5 kopecks.
sobstno question if anyone knows anything about this, a five-story building with 3 apartments per floor, my possessions begin on the other side of the shield and I want to make a 3x6 bvg input, I marked the alleged hole for the wire with a cross (so as not to cut the wall and not to enter the wire through the door box, as all the neighbors did), can I drill there, will I get on the track? I suppose the depth of the shield is 12cm, and the thickness of the wall is 15-17 and, in principle, there should be no wires, there is no wiring detector.
thanks.

Vasya, we did this in one of the panel houses. After all, the place of laying the main wires and their entrance to the interfloor canals is clearly visible, and behind the shield itself nothing has been laid or walled up in the walls. At least it shouldn't, because the wires in the switchboard are laid in an open way directly in the switchboard.

What device can be used to determine whether the shield case is grounded or grounded?

Dear author, you can have a question. We have a two-storey, three-entrance, three apartments on the floor.
Apparently the time has come to replace the floor panels, but I would not like to see this huge hulk of standard iron panels on the floor. Is it allowed to use ordinary shields, plastic for example ABB,?

Alexander! Did you read it carefully?
... The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was on his landing in the floor board.
In this article, I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor panel itself and its diagram ... (c)

Key words - "he wanted" !!! and the last sentence, huh?

The quality is suitable for all meters, but not all electricians have the correct screwdriver.

And most importantly, brains.

I wanted to place a fiber-optic-to-Ethernet-interface converter in the low-current section of the floor panel. But for this you need a 220 volt power supply (12 volts can be used). How to correctly transfer the force from the power section of the floor board, from your meter to the low-current one? And in general, can this be done according to the rules?

Vladislav, probably, according to the rules, it is impossible. I also once thought, thought, thought ... and then I installed in the low-current section of the floor board in the vestibule a 2-pole 2A circuit breaker in a plastic box to protect and safely replace the diode light bulb of the vestibule.

I have some telephone boxes in this section with a bunch of wires going to other floors. Telephone operators periodically visit and dig in these boxes, but they don't complain about my machine.

Why not and how should all these IT people be? And so be it, calmly pulling from the riser without asking anyone, and then zeros and ones do not converge on the group and apartment SE. In our house, during the transition to the condominiums, they found a couple of illegal IT-cable ones, they were allegedly allowed by the ZhEK.

Surfactants, I don't know for sure, maybe formally and not. We have channels for telephone and radio lines in panel houses, but they are often clogged with garbage. Telephone operators also violate, do not want to clean the channels and climb with their wires into the 380V compartment to go from floor to floor.
So if they ever speak to me for my machine gun, I will point them to their phone lines next to the riser.
And people sometimes put sockets in the low-current compartment to power all kinds of IT junk.

Yes, such retreats are darkness. It is possible and impossible to hang telephones and metal lines of radio and telephone networks on supports, nevertheless, they hang and fight with them, it all depends on the degree of filling the glass - whether the interested parties agree or not. This was not asked with a scoop, and everything hung. But if you do not allow to hang something else on the power transmission line supports, each operator will start planting their own supports ??? And they reconcile in the RC, knowing perfectly the conditions of the game - you give me a waw, I will give you a waw.

And why were the 25A machine guns installed in this dashboard?

Alexander, for more powerful consumers, for example, the same electric stoves, only of lower power than it was supposed to (5.6-8.0 kW) with the corresponding machine 40 (A), which is indicated in the diagram under the asterisk.

So it was in high-rise buildings with electric / stoves - 40 A for the stove, 16 and 10 for sockets and light. Sometimes 16 and 16, sho snazazhitsy got it.

Hello! Please, help! On the 5th floor, we have 3 apartments per floor and on the site there are old meters with a spinning disk. In theory, there are aluminum wires everywhere. I want to put machines on 25 amperes markings, so that each room is independent, and machines for light at 16 amps. RCD 40 amperes. Do I need to first clarify something with the management company or is it all within the framework of the guest and I can be calm? The husband says it is possible, but the grandfather cannot, you only need 1 machine 16 amperes, otherwise everything will be at the neighbors' and on the site will burn.

Why do you need 25 amps in sockets, and as many as 16 amperes on lighting ??? Will the welder and spotlights be installed? For sockets 16, for light and 10 with a head is enough, UZO-25A
And what will burn out among the neighbors is only the opinion of the grandfather, no more.

When I came home, the light was off, and a private trader was working in the shield on the stairs, called by the neighbors during the renovation of the apartment. She asked why the light was not on, he said that he accidentally touched a rotten wire, and it fell off. Before that, there were no problems with the shield. A minute later, the light turned on. But the worry remained. What to do and how to check if everything is in order there on my side of the counter.

Natalia, unfortunately, this happens in old shields, which for years (or maybe decades) did not know normal maintenance - until no one touched the old wires, everything seemed to work, but if it was accidentally touched, something could fall off.
For example, chaotically located wires prevented this private trader from performing his work, and he decided to move them a little to the side, and one wire came off.
Whether he had the right to poke around in this shield is another topic. Check the presence of seals on your meter. If the wire was accidentally touched, it fell off, then they screwed it into place, then it's not scary, you can call the ZhEK electrician to check everything. Worse, if this private trader accidentally broke off not only a rotten wire, but also some rotten seal on your meter. In this case, you need to quickly go to the appropriate office and write a statement so that you are not accused of breaking the seal.

Find a QUALIFIED AND SANE ELECTRICIAN. Alas, remotely, apart from flooding, it is unlikely that anything will help.

Lounger: Thank you so much for your answer. I just don’t understand how an iron wire could rot, aren’t they eternal. And I have a new counter. Everything else was changed for everyone in the house in 2000. Thanks again.

Natalia, as an option, there could be a weakened contact in the nut from the mainline or some other place of connection. When working in the switchboard, an electrician could accidentally help it to break away with a slight movement of his hands. The second option, he simply could mistakenly turn off your apartment, and in order not to look stupid in your eyes, he came up with a story with a rotten wire. I don't think that if a major overhaul was done in 2000, there could be rotten wires. In any case, the lines and branches from them were changed. Although rotten wires could be after the meter, going, for example, to apartments, after all, the inputs to the apartments were probably not changed ?! In general, it is not important, the main thing is that he restored your nutrition! All that remains for you, as Lounger recommended, is to check for a seal on the meter.

The photo is not so hot, but the work is decent, some corners are worth something. Clearly, accessible, understandable. I would give it for pizarok.

And the electrician will leave after chuchi for kichu, there are no papers. Either work on a paper contract, or agree in advance and an advance. They work in the hope that only students will pay later, because they did not burn themselves.

Hello. We decided to change the machines for an apartment. The electrician turned off the old machines that are in a separate place ... And the new machines now stand right where the meters are ... under the same door.
We have some. I look at all the machines are as expected, but in ours it is different. Tell me if this is normal?

Elena, there is nothing wrong with that, he just placed all the machines together with the counter on one DIN rail.

We are all used to enjoying the benefits of civilization, in particular electricity. Where does electricity come to our houses and apartments? Most city dwellers will answer this question - from the storey board located on the staircase of an apartment building. I myself live in an apartment. On the landing we have a floor board for 4 apartments.

Its main task is to distribute power supply between apartments. For decades, there is no supervision over them, no one repairs them and no one is responsible for their operation. Neither network nor management companies are willing to repair them. The residents of the house do not care about them either.

There are two very important electrical devices in the floor panel: an input automatic device designed to limit power consumption and an electric meter that records the electricity used. In the dashboard, there is a delineation of responsibility and ownership between the management company of the house and the owner of the apartment.

Greetings to all readers of the site Electric in the house. In today's article, I want to talk about the device of the floor board, which you all probably saw on your staircase. Here we will consider an illustrative example, how is the floor panel for 4 apartments arranged, we will analyze its electrical circuit with installed equipment: meters, circuit breakers, automatic machines, etc.

The device of a floor panel in an apartment building

Overwhelming majority electrical panels on the floors does not lock and poses a serious threat of electric shock to residents, as well as the risk of fire for the entire house. Misfortune can lie in wait for residents even when viewed.

In the photo you can see some of the horrors of the internal structure of the floor board. Practice shows that energy companies and management companies do not care about the technical condition of switchboards.

These enterprises do not want to do any major repairs or maintenance. The maximum that the residents of the building can count on is the replacement of trunk cables running from the lead-in switchboard in the basement of the building to the upper floor.

If the wires burn out in the dashboard or electrical devices fail, you can count on the arrival of the electricians on duty. They will replace failed devices or conductors in the floor panel scheme, however, one cannot expect high-quality repairs from them.

The purpose of this article is to draw the attention of residents to their floor boards and the state in which they are. Most of them require immediate overhaul. Do not be lazy to go out to the site and look into them.

Boards located on staircases, as a rule, consist of three compartments: subscriber, distribution and low-current compartment... Structurally, each compartment has its own door, and on the front side there are viewing windows for taking meter readings. On the door of the distribution compartment, a floor panel diagram should be applied so that the electrician from the housing and communal services understands what is going where. But as a rule, this is not always observed.

IN distribution compartment of the floor panel there are electricity meters. And as in our case, packet switches. IN subscriber compartment installed circuit breakers on a din rail. In order to turn off the machine or check its position, it is enough to open the door of this compartment (you do not need to open the entire flap).

Low-current compartment the floor panel is located separately from the power section. It accommodates telephone and radio communication cables, internet, intercom, burglar alarms, etc.

Shield marking according to GOST

How shields are marked? According to GOST, each shield has a different design model and has its own marking. The marking has a structure that indicates:

1. 1) Purpose - SHE (floor board);
2. 2) The number of apartments for which it is designed - 2, 3, 4;
3. 3) Execution type - B - built-in, H - mounted;
4. 4) Number of compartments - 1, 2, 3.

For example, take a shield with the designations ШЭ-4Н-3, the abbreviation stands for: floor panel, designed for four compartments, hinged, three compartments. At the same time, there are four viewing windows on the front door for taking readings.

If there are no numbers after the letters ШЭ (only the letter В / Н), this indicates that the shield is supplied without viewing windows.

Another example is Shcher-V-1. The letter "p" means that the shield is made in the form of a frame. The front part is as expected, and there are only brackets at the back for mounting in a niche. It stands for: floor panel in the form of a frame, internal design, without viewing windows, with one compartment.

How a floor panel for 4 apartments should not look like

In the photo you can see floor panel for four apartments nine-storey building built in the distant 80th year. This dashboard has not been visited by qualified electricians for a long time. Here the tenants of one of the apartments replaced the old bag with modern machines. Moreover, two independent machines are installed, each connected to a phase and zero, respectively. It is not right. In this case, a two-pole circuit breaker must be installed, which, when disconnected, will break both poles at the same time.

Above are the old Soviet circuit breakers. The first thing that struck me was not that they need to be thrown away for a long time, but how they are connected. Comb-shaped busbar made of BREAKED aluminum wire. A couple of millimeters from this wire is the metal case of the shield.

For an inexperienced person, it is not just work - it is dangerous to open such a shield. I am already silent about people passing by, who may accidentally touch the shield body.

In addition, these black machines need to be replaced for a long time, since most of them are not capable of performing their functions. Sometimes you just turn off the machine manually, but you can't turn it on anymore, since the trigger inside just crumbled.

I went down one floor in the same building. It seems that the machines were connected by the same electrician on all floors. In that floor panel a similar picture - the machines are connected with a bare wire in the form of a loop. Some of the tenants replaced the old automatic machine in their apartment and installed a new modern one.

But again, a mistake with the choice of the denomination. The wire is connected to the machine with a cross section of 2.5 mm2, and the machine is 25 Amperes. It is not right. A cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 can withstand a load of 27 A. On average, a circuit breaker with an overload of 45% can work and not turn off for 1 hour. Now we count: 1.45 * 25 A = 36 A. This is the current that the machine can hold for 1 hour and not shut down. During such a time and under such loads, the wire (with a cross section of 2.5 mm2) will simply melt.

I'm sure if you ask a question to the owners of the apartment: "why do you have a 25 Ampere machine"? The answer will sound something like this: yes, because the electrician said not to knock out. And then people wonder why the apartments are on fire ...

In the photo below you can see how the neutral wire that goes to one of the apartments will soon burn out.

And here's another photo fused neutral wires going from the highway to the meters. Moreover, it is clear that one of them has already burned out. The popular method of "twisting without isolation" was used to build it up.

In this photo, the branch of the phase conductors and the neutral conductor, or rather the PEN from the main. The trunk line is made of four wires - three phases A, B, C and a PEN wire. The grounding system in this case is TN-C. There is no separate grounding, the neutral wire and the grounding wire are combined.

The trunk line is made with an aluminum wire with a cross section of 16 mm2. A branch of the main trunk line is carried out without a break on all floors of the house.

It may seem that the phase is connected to the metal part of the shield. However, it is not. If you look closely between the body and the terminal, you can see a special insulating stand.

Power is supplied from the phase terminals to the packet switches. All wiring done aluminum wire APV brand with a cross section of 2.5 mm2.

And here are the branches of the main PEN conductor. The wire sits tightly on the shield body without breaking.

Floor board layout for 4 apartments

Friends, on the basis of the photos discussed above, we will try to figure out all the "snot" that are there and understand what an electric one looks like. floor board layout for 4 apartments.

Friends also wanted to note that the layout of the floor panel, which is presented here in terms of format, is very voluminous, if published in full format the drawing will take up half of the screen, so I will split it into several fragments.

Single-line diagram of a floor panel for four apartments.

The first thing that can be said is that the power supply for each apartment is single-phase. If only because all meters are single-phase. In the shield, we see a minimum of equipment: a packet switch, an electric energy meter, automatic machines.

Each floor board receives power from the main line, which runs along the entire riser, from the first floor to the last (see the photo with a branch of 3 phases and a neutral wire). Each phase of the main line is connected without break to the terminal block. The combined PEN conductor is connected directly to the board case.

Then, from the terminal blocks, two wires go to the packet switches. The connection is made with an aluminum wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm2.

If all this is voiced then will be as follows:

For apartment No. 1, phase "A" and zero go from the terminal block to the bag. For apartment No. 2, phase "B" and zero go from the terminal block to the bag. For apartment No. 3, phase "C" and zero go from the terminal block to the bag. For apartment No. 4, phase "A" and zero go from the terminal block to the bag.

Further, from the bag, the wires are connected to the meter and are distributed among the apartments. A two-pole bag (packet switch) is installed in front of each meter. With its help, you can de-energize the entire apartment. This is a kind of switch that can be used to turn off the voltage when replacing the meter. After connection, the meter is sealed and access to its contacts is closed.

Further, the phase wire leaves the meter and is connected to the circuit breakers (each to his own apartment). The zero wire leaves the meter and is connected to the terminal block, and from it goes to the corresponding apartment.

Scheme in floor boards is performed in such a way as to load all phases evenly. For example, one apartment is connected to the "A" phase, the second to the "B" phase, the third to the "C" phase. It is clear that if the floor is for 4 apartments, then two apartments will be connected to one phase at once.

On the next floor, distribution to apartments is proceeding in the same way, but already two apartments are connected to another phase.

Thus, they achieve a more or less uniform load in all three phases.

Each apartment must be powered by circuit breakers. In no case should it be connected before the meter to the terminals of the bagger or directly to the terminals of the branch lines of the main line. This is already considered theft of electricity with the imposition of a fine.

On the floor panel diagram, you can see a smiling circle that looks like a smiley - this is the designation of a panel socket. In the first photo, you can see her in the upper right corner.

How to turn on the light yourself in the apartment if it was turned off for non-payment?

It depends on where they turned off. Usually they turn it off in the control room, where only electricians from the housing department have access.
Still, I would recommend paying your electricity bills and living in peace.

The distribution board for the apartment in most houses is installed on the staircase, there is also a meter for the consumed electricity. To connect to the phase and working zero bus, you need to find the wires coming from the meter and connect them, although it will be difficult to find the phase wire, since 1) the meter is de-energized and sealed
2) connecting bypassing the counter is a crime
3) without the appropriate qualifications and training, you can injure yourself with an electric shock, or even lose your life altogether. From this, the conclusion is to pay off the debt for electricity, call a specialist and make a connection.

So, to climb into the control room and break the law, but in fact you are going to steal electricity, I categorically do not advise you and I will not tell you how to do it!

But you can get out of the situation by another method, firstly, without breaking the law, and secondly, without being exposed to the danger of being electrocuted in the switchboard.

You can negotiate with your neighbors and carry out the transfer to your apartment, naturally compensating the costs of your rescuers, if your wiring is in order and it is disconnected from the electricity supplier's line, then you can connect at the end of the carrying not an outlet, but a plug, by inserting it into your outlet, you will supply electricity is fully connected to the network of the whole house (apartment).

First, you can use rechargeable batteries, pre-charged, for example, in the garage next door. From them, using an adapter device, you can get a standard voltage of two hundred and twenty volts.

In the case of using a gasoline generator, it will be noisy and smoky, so the generator should be located away from home, for example, in a shed next door.

There are also wind farms, which are a generator with blades, and are driven by the force of the wind.

And finally, solar panels.

If you turned off the electricity for non-payment, you can connect it yourself in the apartment.

I got into this situation. He told her how to get out of her neighbor.

He allowed me to connect to his home electrical grid while I dealt with debt and connectivity issues.

We have mutually decided how much I will owe him for the period of consumption of his electricity.

Having bought the required length and cross-section of an electric cable, an outlet and a plug, and having connected to a neighboring network, I used electricity without any problems.

It seems illegal, but through the counter.

You can connect the electricity in your apartment if you have cut off the electricity supply, you can feed on your neighbor (of course, having warned him by talking to him), you can throw the wire from the driveway, as the electricians say "sniff", but it is illegal if they catch you all this, by connecting to the entrance, you will receive electricity and will always be afraid to use it.

Be careful with working with current, you do not know how - it is better not to meddle.

In a large-panel house, you can connect to a neighbor so that he does not know about it (or learns over time). There are junction boxes, KON, (they are on the wall, popularly called the "crescent") They contain connecting wires. You will have to work under voltage and keep in mind that your neighbor is unlikely to thank you.