Cesspools in the country. Drainage pit in a private house with their own hands

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose the appropriate option:

a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath;
sealed cesspool - for a large number of drains;
septic tank - for partial treatment and draining of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drain cesspool?

If the daily amount of discharged water does not exceed one cubic meter, a drain pit can be used. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold, which can be immediately buried.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

A septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of drain exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is unprofitable to order a monthly pumping out of the pit, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than the usual latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area for the organization of the filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ It is possible to carry out a complete cleaning once every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with the device of a septic tank alone;
- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;
- additional equipment - to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or a drill with a mixer.

Site selection

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But to the house it can be placed almost close - 3 m from the foundation with a one-story building, and 5 m - with a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

Be sure to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood water - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it can not be buried completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step by step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people, the main chamber will be at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers must be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drains in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug. The upper fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and arrange the beds.

The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. So that the masses do not stagnate, the pipe must be laid without straight and sharp corners.
It is desirable to get to sandy or sandy soil. On clay soil, a sand and gravel cushion is made. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and tamped, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a fraction of 5 cm. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.

The rest of the formwork is done on top of the pillow. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the second side is the earth.

A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is above freezing of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
Concrete can be kneaded both manually in a trough with a chopper, and a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of ordinary washing powder to each bucket of water.

Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones of different sizes is poured into the formwork, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and the tee are poured so that after the formwork is removed, there is a monolithic wall around them.

As soon as the concrete hardens, you can make the top floor. It is most convenient to use corrugated board for formwork. It is laid so that it goes halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. It is necessary to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber - a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum relief hole is made at the end of such a pipe. A ventilation pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is inserted into the second.

An overlap with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured with the obligatory addition of stone and bayonet. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and it can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. So that in winter the septic tank does not freeze through this hatch, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

An improved do-it-yourself cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber becomes silted, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and the final cleaning of the drain water takes place in the second chamber.

And how to make a simple cesspool is described step by step in the video:

Sewerage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But it is not always possible to connect to a centralized sewer system - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage villages. The way out of the problem is the arrangement of their own facilities for the collection, treatment and disposal of wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How is a cesspool without a bottom

There are two types of cesspools:

sealed;
leaky, without a bottom;

The first are the simplest structures made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewage machine should pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, because some owners are thinking about how to partially dispose of sewage with the help of soil purification.

And the simplest option is leaky cesspools. They are a shallow well, assembled from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself is located there, or a filter pad made of sand, gravel or crushed stone. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil post-treatment. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewage machine 1-2 times a year.

You may be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For a large family without a bottom, they are not an effective and environmentally safe solution - in this case, it is preferable to build from several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly consider what is good and bad design of a leaky cesspool. Its advantages include the following.

The extremely low price of the structure compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
Ease of creation - a pit and a trench are dug under the pipe, the walls of the cesspool and the lid are installed, the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be performed independently.
The speed of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings in a couple of days.
Lower costs compared to a sealed cesspool - you can call a sewage truck not every month, but only 1-2 times a year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious drawbacks.

Problems with the environment - if this is placed near a source of drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live near you are unlikely to enjoy the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage settlements and garden partnerships - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even simpler facilities for collecting sewage.
Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site with a check, then it may consider that you have a cesspool with seepage of sewage into the soil as a violation of the norms, with corresponding consequences.
The fragility of work - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt up and stop passing water in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill up with drains faster, so you will have to move it to a new location or replace it with a full-fledged septic tank. Or more often turn to the services of vacuum cleaners.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not the best solution in terms of ecology and compliance with sanitary standards. But a competent choice of a place for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that the current sanitary and building standards do not give a clear answer to the question of the admissibility or, conversely, the inadmissibility of building a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, an unsealed cesspool, if possible, should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between a similar structure and various objects:

from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
to trees and gardens - at least 5 m;
to the road or the border of the site - from 2 to 4 m;
to residential buildings - 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the facilities for collecting sewage from the nearest neighbors are arranged. Also, if the case takes place in the country, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of a visit from the sanitary service to your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-arranging cesspools without a bottom, drainage wells and septic tanks are concrete rings. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and the low price makes these products affordable for any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before starting excavation work, determine how many concrete rings, and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in the table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings made in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Name	Inner diameter, m	External diameter, m	Height, m	Weight, kg	Internal volume, m3
COP10.3	1	1,16	0,29	≈200	≈0,3
COP10.6	1	1,16	0,59	≈400	≈0,62
COP10.9	1	1,16	0,89	≈600	≈0,94
COP15.6	1	1,68	0,59	≈660	≈1,3
COP15.9	1,5	1,68	0,89	≈1000	≈1,97
COP20.6	2	2,2	0,59	≈970	≈2,24
COP20.9	2	2,2	0,89	≈1480	≈3,38

Step 1. Start the construction of a cesspool without a bottom by determining the place where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2 At the selected location, mark and define the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3 Start the actual extraction of the soil. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow, and there is enough time, then earthwork can be done manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil up. The work is greatly facilitated when using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it turns out that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to involve an excavator.

Step 4 Regularly measure the depth of the pit with a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m (preferably more) between sewer drains and groundwater.

Step 5 Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, while they are brought on a truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6 With the help of a crane-manipulator, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! For better fixation of the rings with each other, apply cement mortar to their ends before laying a new product.

Step 7 In the same way, put the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Complete the laying of concrete products with the installation of the upper round slab, in which a hole is cut out for the hatch.

Step 9 In loamy conditions, effective drainage will require a large contact area. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the cesspool. Their total area should reach 10% of the total area of the internal surface of the structure.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured into the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows at least a little cleaning of the sewage that goes into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and easy job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important for him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much, or the absence of the need to go down to the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filter pad. Instead of the latter, you can use ordinary sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a brick bottom

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a brick structure. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than the construction of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, a fence or a barn, then it makes sense to put them into action and make a cesspool without a bottom completely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. The step-by-step instructions with photos below will help you in this matter.

Step 1. The construction of a brick cesspool, like any other sewer structure, start with earthworks - choose a place and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2 Check the depth and diameter of the pit with a tape measure.

Step 3 Get rid of the earth excavated during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave a part of it for the subsequent backfilling of the cover of the structure.

Step 4 At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5 Proceed to laying the lower part of the walls of the brick cesspool. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then the construction of this structure will be a good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! Silicate bricks absorb water well and at the same time gradually collapse. If you want the cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6 Continue laying and climb higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and the brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Finish laying the walls of the cesspool of bricks, not reaching a little to the surface of the earth.

Step 8 Lead the sewer pipe out of the house into the cesspool.

Step 9 Reinforce the pit with a metal bracket installed as shown in the image below. Instead, it is allowed to use a wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to collapse and rot.

Step 10 Fold the same flat ring of brick on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Seal the cesspool on top with a concrete slab, prefabricated or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage disposal. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at the factory or.

A do-it-yourself cesspool without pumping out is one of the possible inexpensive, and under certain conditions, quite rational options for an autonomous sewer system. To cope with the work on its arrangement and carry it out correctly, you need to know some of the nuances of this process.

To begin with, it is worth saying a few words about the legal aspects associated with the arrangement of a cesspool, a septic tank, and other local treatment facilities on the site. The fact is that it is impossible to create such objects recklessly on anything.

In order not to make problems for yourself, and autonomous sewage was legalized, before proceeding to work, it is necessary to issue a SES building permit. This is due to the fact that any waste that enters the sewer containers is almost always a favorable environment for the development of a large number of harmful microorganisms. Therefore, sanitary and epidemiological supervision keeps the construction and operation of such structures under control - in order to protect groundwater from biological or chemical contamination that can lead to the spread of various diseases.

In order to obtain a permit for the construction of a local sewer, you will have to collect a package of documents. The required list includes the following:

Documents confirming the ownership of the site and the main building located on it.
Technical passport with a plan of the territory of the site, on which all buildings without exception are indicated.
A copy of the plan, on which it is necessary to determine the proposed location of the drain pit or septic tank.
The project of the device of a septic tank or pit. It will be helped to develop in the design organization.
The project (plan) of a residential building with the location of the bathroom in it.

An example of a topographic survey of a site

Topographic survey of the site, which is carried out by specialists of geodetic organizations. The survey plan displays not only all the buildings and boundaries of the site, its relief, hydrological resources, the presence of vegetation, soil type, and other necessary data.
Agreement with organizations involved in the removal of various household waste.

The collected documents and the application are submitted to the regional SES or to an organization engaged in environmental protection. A building permit will have to wait about a month. The organization issuing the permit has the right to control the correct operation of the local sewage system, the timeliness of cleaning, and compliance with environmental standards.

The location of the cesspool on the site

It is clear that before submitting documents, the first thing to do is to determine the location of the cesspool on your own. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to certain requirements established by the current rules.

Scheme of the permissible location of the cesspool on the site

These rules include the following items:

The domestic wastewater storage tank should be located on the territory adjacent to the house at a distance of at least 4 ÷ 5 m from it, as well as from residential buildings located in neighboring areas. This is explained by the fact that water penetrating into the soil should not have a negative, eroding effect on the foundations of structures.

By the way, it is impossible not to mention that if the cesspool is combined with a yard toilet, then according to the requirements of SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 (sanitary rules for maintaining the territories of settlements), p.p. 2.3.2., the distance between residential buildings and it should be at least 8÷10 m.

From the drain pit to the fence separating the plots, the distance must be at least one meter. Nobody needs conflicts with neighbors. If possible, it is better to increase this distance even up to 3÷4 meters.
If a well or well is equipped on the site, then the cesspool must be organized at the greatest possible distance from them. To determine the minimum allowable distance between the water intake and the drain pit, the composition of the soil on the site is also taken into account:

- clay soil - at least 20 m;

- loam - not less than 30 m;

- sandy or sandy loam soil - at least 50 m.

If the house is connected to the water supply, then the sewer facilities should not be closer than 10 m from the laid pipe.

When the site is adjacent to natural reservoirs, a cesspool or septic tank cannot be closer than 30 m from standing water (lake, pond) and 10 m from flowing water (river, stream).
From the road, from the gas pipeline laid underground, the distance cannot be less than 5 meters.
Within a radius of 3 meters there should be no trees, 1 meter - bushes.
The depth of the pit should be no more than 3 meters, otherwise the drains can directly penetrate the groundwater. In addition, a deeper tank will be difficult to maintain.
It is unacceptable to discharge effluents outside the boundaries of the site without an appropriate permit. This, by the way, also applies to connecting to the central sewer - self-will in this matter is prohibited.

Options for arranging a container for collecting sewage

There are several options for arranging containers for the collection, accumulation and partial processing of liquid household waste:

A cesspool without a bottom, with proper arrangement, will last quite a long time without pumping

Cesspools, with walls reinforced with various materials, but with an open bottom. Due to this, liquid waste waste, dissolving, goes into the ground. With such a simple approach, the pit may not require pumping out for a long time, for several years, especially if anaerobic bacteria are regularly introduced into the tank, capable of processing part of the solid waste into water and carbon dioxide.

The problem is that SES is very likely to categorically oppose such sewerage. So the possibility of building such a simplified version should be clarified in advance.

Hermetically equipped containers of large volume, with walls made of concrete rings or concreted. This variant of the pit requires periodic cleaning with the help of specialized equipment - calling a sewage truck.
Installation of a sealed plastic container buried in the ground, which is also pumped out by vacuum trucks as it is filled.

All conveniences of human habitation are connected with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. The owners of "summer residences" - dachas, small country houses - are trying to equip their seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the easiest task, almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is decided by the arrangement of wells or wells. The most difficult issue - the local sewage system - also has a standard solution: a do-it-yourself drain pit is being built on the site.

A drain pit in a private house or in a country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage effluents. Household waste from toilets, kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers is transported here through sewer pipes.

Any treatment facilities in anticipation of this simple collection of sewage is not provided. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewers or, after treatment with biological products, are used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drain pits

Drainage pits are classified in relation to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

On this basis, collections of sewer waste are divided into two groups:

superficial;
underground.

Surface collectors of sewage

This option is only suitable for use in the warm season. It is used extremely rarely, since in this case the sewer network has to be laid on top. The required slope (from the "supplier" of wastewater - sinks, toilets, etc. - to the collector) can only be provided if all sources of wastewater are above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to arrange surface drain tanks in areas with a high level of groundwater.

Underground drain pits

Underground sewage collection facilities are the most common. Depending on the number of drains, the design of the drain pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary norms of Russia pits without sealing the bottom are allowed if the daily volume of effluents does not exceed 1 m 3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground reservoir is equipped.

According to the materials of manufacture

For the construction of the construction of the drain pit, you can use the following materials:

ceramic brick;
concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
waste tractor tires;
plastic;
tree.

For do-it-yourself drain pits, concrete rings are the most inappropriate option. Construction equipment is required for their installation - manually heavy products cannot be handled.

The easiest and cheapest way to equip a drain pit in a private house or in a summer cottage is to decorate its walls with tires. But such a design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage entering the soil.

Location - sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do anything on their site, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services do not sleep - they require strict adherence to the norms and rules in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drain pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum allowable distances from the wastewater storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

to the conduit (central) - 10 meters;
to the underground gas pipeline - 5 meters;
to a drinking well: 20 meters - on clay soils, 30 meters - on loamy soils, 50 meters - on sandstones and sandy loams;
to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
to the fence (site boundary) - 1 meter.

The maximum depth of the drain pit is also regulated: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that non-compliance with sanitary requirements can threaten not only with a fine - in case of damage to the health of others, a criminal case may be initiated.

In addition, when making a drain hole in the country with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize an unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Tip: Practice shows that it is better to place a drain pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction order

The device of a drain pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer tanks. To take him away ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe brought out through the lid of the pit. Its dimensions are regulated by building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - at least 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a drain cleaning method

Before you build a drain pit in a private house, you should decide a very important question: how will you clean it. The amount of work on the improvement of the site depends on this:

if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewage truck, take care of organizing an access road;
if you are ready to clean it yourself, purchase a plastic container with an airtight lid and find out in advance who will take your waste. Do not forget about the means of protecting the skin of the hands and respiratory tract. It is better if it is a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator will do. Of course, you can not do without rubber boots.

When arranging a drain hole, you need to take care not only how to dig it, but also how to clean it.

Modern technologies make it possible to significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drain pit, if it fills up quickly, or even make it practically waste-free. We are talking about microscopic helpers - capable of turning effluents into fairly clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as a fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drain pit, but also diligently fight against an unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind, when deciding how to clean the drain pit in a private house, that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria do not withstand contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders are detrimental to them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have worked hard, you just have to pump out the liquid component with the pump (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.

Almost all owners of country houses are faced with the need to perform autonomous sewage. The simplest and most economical way is a cesspool device. Next, we will consider how a cesspool is made in the country with our own hands.

Types of cesspools

In fact, a cesspool is a reservoir that collects sewage and used water ().

According to the type of pit device, there are two types:

Without a bottom - in this case, liquid waste seeps into the ground, and solid waste is compressed. As a rule, after filling such a hole, it is simply buried.
Sealed pit - made of concrete, brick or reinforced concrete rings. Cleaning the cesspool in the country in this case is carried out using special equipment.

I must say that according to SNiP standards, it is forbidden to use cesspools without a bottom (without filtration) if the volume of wastewater per day exceeds one cubic meter. This is due to the fact that runoff enters the groundwater and thus can spoil the water in the well or well. If the volume of wastewater is less, then the bacteria that live in the soil have time to process and purify such a volume of polluted water.

Therefore, in modern dachas, where they wash, wash in the shower and cook, it is not recommended to use cesspools without a bottom.

Advice! If the drive is needed only for the toilet, then it makes sense to use a country toilet without a cesspool. For example, peat dry closet.

Pit device

Location selection

Before proceeding with the device of the cesspool, you should choose a place for it. First of all, you should pay attention to the fact that a sewage truck, which has impressive dimensions, can drive up to the pit.

In addition, it is necessary to maintain a certain distance to the following objects:

Note! The sump should not be located on the same groundwater flow line with a well or other water intake.

Payment

The construction of cesspools in the country should begin with the calculation of its volume, which depends on the number of people living in the country. So for one person a volume of at least 0.5 cubic meters is required. If the family consists of 4-5 people, then the sump must be at least 8 cubic meters in volume.

Volume calculation is performed as follows:

If the country house has a bathroom and water heaters that run on fuel or electricity, an average of 150 liters of water will be consumed per person per day.
If water heaters run on gas, then one person will consume 180 liters of water on average.

Accordingly, these figures should be multiplied by the number of people in the family to determine the average daily water consumption. Thus, it is possible to calculate how quickly a pit of one or another volume will be filled.

I must say that they often perform a toilet in a country house with a cesspool without sewer pipes being connected to it. In this case, of course, the drive does not need such a large volume.

Pit execution

The instructions for the device of the pit are as follows:

You can dig a hole of the required volume with your own hands or with an excavator. In any case, the walls of the pit should be carefully leveled. The bottom should be with a slight slope towards the hatch.
Next, the bottom of the pit must be covered with sand and rammed.
After that, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the bottom and concrete is poured.. Work after pouring is stopped for 28 days, until the concrete has completely solidified.
The next step is to complete the walls, for this you need to install formwork from chipboard panels or wooden boards. To reinforce the walls, reinforcement bars should be used, which should be located vertically and horizontally. This will make the walls stronger and allow them to withstand ground movements.

When pouring walls, it is necessary to provide holes for sewer pipes so that you do not have to subsequently drill concrete.

After the walls are laid out, internal waterproofing is carried out using bituminous mastic..

Next, you need to make a cover.. The principle of its manufacture resembles the pouring of a screed, the only thing to use as the lower formwork is chipboard panels, which must be supported by support pillars. In the ceiling, it is necessary to provide a hatch measuring 0.7x0.7 m.

Note! Outside, the walls should be waterproofed with a layer of clay 25-30 cm thick.