Do-it-yourself budget bath. How to build a bath with your own hands

A bath is a mandatory attribute of most summer cottages and personal plots. However, often its construction is associated with considerable costs. However, when erected small building, used only in the warm season, financial losses can be minimized.

Overview of alternative building materials - choose from three

The main expenses that await us during the construction of a bath are the purchase of construction and Supplies. Therefore, when drawing up a construction estimate, we will think about how these costs can be reduced. The traditional building material for baths is wood in the form of a beam or a rounded log. A little less common are buildings made of brick or sibit, which have proven themselves well. But, unfortunately, the price of such consumables is quite high.

Consider alternative materials that are not so well known, but quite suitable for the quick construction of an inexpensive bathhouse:

• Cinder block. It is easy to work with, and its cost is low.
• Arbolite (wood concrete). It was widely used in construction in the middle of the last century. Differs in light weight, simplicity in processing, plasticity.
• differs in the speed of construction. The price depends on the heat insulator used.

Of these options, the last two are the most acceptable. The fact is that the classic cinder block can hardly be called an environmentally friendly material. Of course, modern manufacturers reduce its danger to a minimum, but this applies only to large companies. But health is not something you want to risk. A lot has already been said about frame baths. Therefore, further we will talk about how to build an arbolite bath.

A strong foundation is the key to the durability of the building

The owners of dachas and country houses tape, monolithic, screw foundations and options on support posts are popular. Each of these options has strengths and weaknesses. For example, strip base it is quite possible to do it yourself at no extra cost, but it is almost impossible to equip it in areas with difficult terrain. In addition, concrete (the main component) gains strength for at least 14 days, and ideally a month. There is no need to talk about efficiency.

A monolithic foundation can withstand significant loads, but at the same time it is subject to the same disadvantages as a strip foundation - it is difficult to equip it in swampy and uneven areas. Not to mention the price. The cost of such a foundation does not differ in availability. But you also need to take into account the cost of logistics. One of the most affordable are the foundations on the supporting posts. Yes, the device of such a foundation will require a minimum of labor and cash costs. However, like previous options, it is undesirable to use in areas with watery soil.

Screw piles are considered equal in cost to strip foundations. You can agree with this opinion, if you forget about the associated expenses. To install metal piles, you do not need to order and pay for the delivery of concrete, spend money on a reinforcing belt, sand and gravel for a pillow. But, perhaps, the main advantage is that you can install a screw foundation in one day without outside help.

Such piles are blamed for their inability to withstand significant loads. But our task is to build a bathhouse as quickly as possible and at minimal cost. For us, screw piles are the best option.

We install a screw foundation - a step-by-step description

Let's start with a description of the pile itself. This steel pipe, equipped with a tip and blades at the bottom. The dimensions of the pile depend on the required depth of screwing into the ground, but cannot be less than 2.5 meters. The body of the pile is coated with an anti-corrosion solution. After twisting into the ground, the pile is crowned with a square head (50 × 50 cm). It is fixed with a welding machine, after which the seam is protected from corrosion. It is on this head that the support beam (channel) will lie, from which the construction of the bath will begin.

Device work screw foundation starts with markup. The proverb "measure seven times - cut one" is more relevant than ever. The number of piles depends on the dimensions of the future building, but the distance between them cannot be more than 3 m, and preferably 2–2.5 m. After marking and cleaning the construction site from debris and foreign objects, we invite assistants and proceed to screwing the pile:

• In the marked place we make a pit with a depth of no more than 30 cm and install a pile in it.
• We align the pile vertically, pass scrap through the mounting eyes and begin to screw the pile.

Of course, the length of the crowbar will not allow you to create an effective lever. Therefore, we lengthen it with pre-prepared pipes, preferably with a square section - they have higher rigidity. average speed deepening - 20 cm per pile turn. We stop screwing when the metal lever is deformed. But at the same time, it is important that the pile goes below the freezing point. The minimum distance from the ground surface to the pile tip is 1.5 m.

After deepening the piles, we check their elevated edges - they should be on the same level. If necessary, we make corrections with the help of a grinder. We complete the work by pouring cement mortar into the cavity of the pile. This will give it additional rigidity and prevent corrosion. The final stage, when working with piles, is the installation of the strapping. For a bath from wood concrete, we make it from a metal channel, welding it to the heads. For frame bath- enough timber, attracted by bolts. A mandatory requirement in both cases is the use of a building level, the horizon must be even, because the quality of the walls and roof depends on it.

Arbolite blocks - features of material and construction

Theoretically make wood concrete blocks you can do it yourself. To do this, you need a vibrating table, molds for blocks, cement and leftover lumber (sawdust, shavings). However, given that the cost of such material is low, it can be purchased at a hardware store. This material combines such important characteristics for a bath as good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. In addition, we do not forget about the safety of this material for human health.

Today, you can hardly find baths with a combined steam room and sink. As a rule, the layout provides for a separate steam room, sink and room. Drawings drawn up before construction will allow you to choose the optimal size and number of consumables. There are two technologies for building walls from wood concrete - monolithic and from blocks. The first involves the preparation or purchase of an arbolite solution. Let's say right away that pleasure is not cheap, but with self-manufacturing it's still long. Therefore, we turn to the second option - block construction.

By and large, this method does not differ from working with brick, sibit or cinder block. The layout begins with the installation of corner blocks, after which a thread is pulled between them - a guideline for masonry. Adhering to the line given by the cord, lay out the first row. Next, we check its horizon with a building level. If necessary, we correct the flaws and proceed to laying out the second row.

Please note that, unlike the same sibit, no special glue is required for laying arbolite blocks - it is quite possible to get by with the usual solution of sand and cement. However, there are also similarities. For example, when laying out door and window openings, you need to lay a corner or channel on top. So, we raised the body of the future bath, it remains to build a roof, install a stove and finish the interior.

Gable roof - roof and ceiling in a single complex

Among the variety of roofs of various types (Gothic, hip, oriental), we will focus on the gable. The explanation is simple - this design is simple, reliable and relatively low price. From building materials for the construction of such a roof, we need:

• Bar 100 × 100 mm - we will make a Mauerlat from it, vertical racks and stops for them.
• A board 50 mm thick and 100 mm wide - blanks for the truss system.
• Unedged boards and laths for lathing.

In addition to lumber, we will prepare a vapor barrier film, mineral wool, roofing material. As the latter, we use a metal profile - it is easy to work with, and it is relatively inexpensive. We start with the treatment of wood with an antiseptic and fire-fighting solution, in the bath - this mandatory requirement. Then we lay a waterproofing layer along the upper perimeter of the walls. And only after that we proceed to the installation of the truss system.

It begins with the laying of a bar - Mauerlat along the perimeter of the walls. Naturally, all corners are checked with a building corner, and the horizon - with a level. After the mauerlat is leveled, we attract it to the walls with anchor bolts. The next step is the installation of tie beams. They are attached to the long sides of the Mauerlat "in the paw". That is, we need to cut out the corresponding grooves in the beams and the beam (base). After installation wooden details additionally fix with nails or staples. It is desirable to maintain a distance between the beams of 1.5 meters.

Having finished with the preparation of the base, we expose vertical racks at the ends of the building. We immediately attach temporary slopes to them (they will give rigidity to the structure) and rafter legs. We connect the racks with a beam - a run, the rest of the rafter legs rest on it. By the way, release them 20 cm from the wall - this will reduce the impact of precipitation on wood concrete. After mounting the rafters, we fill them as a crate unedged board, lay a vapor barrier film on it. It is attached with a construction stapler.

The final stage in the construction of the roof is the laying of roofing material. The metal profile is pressed against the crate with roofing screws. Having closed the constructed circuit, we have already completed 70% of the construction. It remains for us to hem the ceiling and finish the walls inside the bath.

Interior decoration - PVC panels or lining?

Among the budget finishing materials select PVC panels. They have proven themselves well in the decoration of the rest room and washing facilities. It is quite a worthy alternative to ceramic tiles. You can choose such material for every taste and budget. But only for washing. In the steam room, it is better to turn to the traditional lining made of linden - it will not melt when exposed to high temperatures.

It is noteworthy that wall cladding with clapboard and panels is performed almost the same way. In both cases, we need to mount wooden crate. Metal carcass, which causes corrosion, is unacceptable in this case. We mount wooden (in the steam room) and plastic (in the sink) panels on a stuffed and leveled wooden base.

Keep in mind that the distance from the stove to wooden surfaces should be at least 0.5 meters, but it can be reduced to 25 cm by protecting flammable surfaces with non-combustible material.

The final step before installing the oven is the installation of the ceiling. To do this, you can use lining or planed boards. We nail them to the tie beams and go up to the attic, we need to insulate the ceiling. Boards hemmed from below and tie beams formed the floor of the attic. We cover it with a vapor barrier film and fill it with mineral wool. In order to save money, we will use not ready-made mats, but crumb mats, which can be bought as residual raw materials at enterprises producing sandwich panels and similar products.

The only caveat when arranging the ceiling is to install a 40 × 40 cm metal box at the exit of the chimney. It will be required in any case, regardless of which stove you prefer - metal or brick.

Building a bath from a log house is not an easy task, but the construction technology, the choice of materials, and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen. This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camping stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries of competition with baths and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting a bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it works in general - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Location and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a reservoir with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrast bath - after taking a steam bath in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, a natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Linked up today country bath there is no special need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from strangers (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire-prevention distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bath are the dressing room, the washing room and the steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 for one person. In addition, in the dressing room there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothes, benches for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bathhouse of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bath of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, relaxation rooms, etc. to it.

In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. Such an arrangement of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow longer to illuminate its premises with sunlight.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selection and laying of the foundation.
3. Creation of a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).
4. Creating a floor and sewer system baths.
5. Assembling the log cabin.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installation of a furnace, installation of a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply of the bath.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture to the outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, baths are built from pine or spruce round timber with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bath - oak, larch and linden. For example, the lower crowns and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the juice itself" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made from larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for building a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bath - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of coniferous species, dryness, a sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places of damage by woodworms.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying the foundation of any type: cleaning the site from debris, complete removal of the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid clay or fluid plastic.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dusty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bath

Arrange for weak heaving soils: consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junctions of the internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly at the site of the bathhouse, the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, related concrete mortar. Basic (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation, they are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer - 100-150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

Foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be done independently. This will require a collapsible formwork made of boards, smeared from the inside with a non-hardening lubricant of the Emulsol type. Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For casting foundation pillars inside the pits dug for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent lifting concrete pillar during swelling of the soil. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then the concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is lifted by 400 mm by rocking, sand is poured from the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

Between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bathhouse and the inner walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried in the ground by 250 mm.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300-400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. At the ends of the pillars, during casting, mortgages of the required shape made of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the log cabin of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a tape monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking the construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70-100 mm).
4. Formwork installation.
5. Reinforcement tab.
6. fill concrete mix.

The reinforcement laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5:3:1 (crushed stone:sand:cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). It is quite simple to calculate the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mix of concrete is the lack of scales on construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of gravel, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation protruded above the ground level by 100 mm. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced bayonet shovel or with a wire probe, tap the outer side of the formwork with a hammer (eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, the formwork after pouring concrete must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the period allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. The grid is masonry.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing material (roofing) is cut into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic(for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row dressing method: a masonry mortar is laid out on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis) is laid on it, then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are laid, but already “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork accompanied by flooring masonry mesh, laying "in a spoon" and "in a poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the solution is sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the bath house. If a major laying of a heater is expected, it needs an independent foundation, that is, not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earth, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bath visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring rises above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and an unpleasant odor. The wooden flooring wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6-8 years it may require replacement. Tile will be more practical for bath flooring - it is easier to care for it, it is not exposed to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms should be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep warm), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a coated concrete floor ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room it is more profitable than a wooden floor - we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid in series. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay a roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Next steps:

1. First option- flooring of a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can proceed to tile work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer containing perlite (expanded sand). Composition of the mixture: perlite:cement:water as 5:1:3. After a full week from the moment of laying the perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Correctly observe the proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bath above the ground (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs will be supported by the logs. For larger sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. Support pillars for logs must be placed on a multilayer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the log, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewerage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

Solution floor covering in this case, it is as follows: the concreted space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation you can lay a layer of 200 mm polystyrene), a draft floor of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the joists. Then a PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top we pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm grooved boards made of softwood.

An important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - the condition is especially important for a steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain wastewater from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for Wastewater and pipes that carry dirty water to the pit and further to the sewer.

The pit is torn off outside the foundation of the bath, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it from the steam room and washing room (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, a 110 mm drain pipe (pipes) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drains, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the farther the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid under a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main sewage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully tamp each layer.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be laid between them, and the top cover covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Shed, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers; its manufacture is quite difficult. Finished log house in disassembled form, it is necessary to bring it to the construction site and assemble it according to the numbering of logs. Crowns are fastened with 25 mm steel spikes with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The design of the roof of the bath includes rafters, a crate is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (better to the penultimate one) with the help of staples-thorns. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Keep in mind - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Shed rafters, located at an angle, are fixed with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are interconnected, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap on the walls of at least 500 mm.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

Along the perimeter of the foundation, we perform a blind area: we completely remove upper layer soil, deepen by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay the expansion joints (19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - dry cement is covered with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Caulker of a bath house

It is carried out for warming the log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt are traditionally used for caulking. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to moth and fungus damage, and it is easier to work with factory material, because it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of the log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a full caulk is performed - from the outer and inner sides of the log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house is upset - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet, you can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking spatula looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, handle thickness 30 mm, blade width at the base 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the impact part diameter is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is performed in two ways - “in a set” or “in a stretch”. In the second way, we caulk like this: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it in with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller around them and drive it into the groove with the help of a spatula and a roller - with force, until we are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover grooves (slots) of large width. We twist the material for caulking with 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the slot. Loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

• first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log, and only after that - along the bottom;
• we start work on caulking from the slots of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

In no case do not caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the log house to skew, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Recall once again: caulking is performed in the direction "from bottom to top" along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the oven

There are many design options for sauna stoves, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated by electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. brick ovens in baths they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry joints must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying stoves. The firebox of the stove is taken out into the waiting room, its remaining three walls are in the washing room (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast-iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters installed for those who like to take a steam bath are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). But, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the chamber of the heater. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to stoves, heaters differ from them in a wider pipe or in the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, iron ingots must be added to the stones at a percentage of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of a steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

If a distance of 40-50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close as possible to the roof ridge. When passing the chimney through the attic space, be sure to fluff the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe must not pass near roof lathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

At least 8 liters of hot water is required for washing one bath user. There are several ways to provide such an amount: heat a container of water on the stove, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath leads from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained into winter time otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for supplying electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, dwelling on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a carrier cable. But it's extremely difficult to deal with him. installation work, because it is too thick (minimum cross section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of the bath according to fire safety standards; it is required to mount it on special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed on a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on a wire insulated with plastic, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched through the air to the bath, the optimal section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what kind of electrical equipment the owner of the dacha wants to power from it in the future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel should only be outdoor installation. According to fire safety rules, it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Don't joke with opportunity short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bath should be made only in non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed to special clips, cable passage through partitions - only through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, only glass cover. All connections of the internal wiring of the cable are only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of RCDs, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you yourself are not one!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

The internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, with subsequent heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually carried out in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the decoration scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing exterior and interior decoration, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to carry out full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - draft and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From the inside of the washing / steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the draft ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - lime, pine tongue-and-groove board (20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

Bathroom needs windows small size(on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that you can look out through them to the person sitting on the bench. The windows in the bath are always double-glazed, depending on the size - with a window or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

The doors in the bath rooms must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened to the dowels. The size of the flaps must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the flap will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal size of the door in the washing section of the bath is 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it is uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles - wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, the width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling is 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the caps of which are recessed into the tree; bottom with screws. For fastening choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the design of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have a higher density and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and timber without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a stove in front of the firebox steel sheet, make sure that the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure that you can freely open the doors of the steam room and washing room when kindling the bath. Do not block passages, the space in front of doors and windows.

Building your own bathhouse on the site of a country house is a rather serious and troublesome business, so you need to approach this issue with full responsibility. In this article we will try to highlight the main points of construction, and in general, talk about how to build a bathhouse with your own hands on your own site, using your capabilities in the most rational way.

Self-construction of a bath, from start to finish

Any construction begins with the preparation of design and permit documentation. With the construction of a bath, the issue is solved a little easier, since it is a non-residential auxiliary room.

According to Article 51. "Issuance of building permits", of the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation of December 29, 2004 No. 190-F3, a separate permit for the construction of auxiliary buildings is not required. However, after the construction of the bath, you must contact the BTI to register a new building on the general layout of your site.

The construction project of any structure, first of all, is necessary for the owner himself for:

• objective budgeting;
• development planning;
• competent construction of the building;
• laying all the necessary communications.

In addition, for an understanding person, the project contains ready-made instructions that will tell you how to build a bathhouse with your own hands. Therefore, this item is mandatory for the construction of objects of any complexity, including baths.

Start of construction

After the project is selected, the construction timeframe and budget are set, the necessary materials are purchased, construction work can begin.

The first step is usually planning work on the ground and digging a pit, while it is recommended to observe certain conditions:

• During the planning of the territory, it is necessary to remove the fertile soil layer, and store it separately until the end of the work, and then return it to its place.
• When hiring earth-moving equipment, in parallel with the foundation pit, it would be advisable to immediately dig trenches to bring communications to the bathhouse (water supply, sewerage, electric cable).
• During construction, equip drainage ditches to remove rainwater from the pit.
• Install fences at the work site, and provide walkways and walkways for the safe passage of people.

Advice! It is best to start earthworks in the second half of spring, when the snow melts, the earth dries out and warm, clear weather sets in, and try to finish before the start of the period of prolonged rains, snowfalls and autumn frosts.

Foundation selection

For the construction of a bath, there are several types of foundations. All of them are made on the basis of reinforced concrete.

Which one to choose depends on the characteristics of your site.

1. Ribbon shallow foundation, the most common variant. Suitable for sandy stable soils, with a low level of occurrence ground water. Work on the manufacture of strip foundations consists in digging a trench, about 400 mm deep, installing formwork, backfilling a layer of sand at the bottom of the trench, then a layer of gravel, installing reinforcement strapping, and pouring all this with concrete to the upper level of the formwork.

1. Column Foundation, is reinforced concrete pillars installed at the corners of the building, and at the junction of internal and external walls. Instead of reinforced concrete, brick, or rubble stone, connected with cement mortar, can be used. It is used on slightly heaving soils. The depth of the pillars, as a rule, can reach one and a half meters. The work consists of digging holes, installing formwork, backfilling rubble, installing reinforcement, and pouring concrete pillars. As a variant of the columnar foundation, bored piles can also be considered.

1. Screw piles, another type of columnar foundation, is used in the case of weak peat or flowing clay soils. The deepening of such piles can reach several meters, until it reaches solid layers of soil with its base. screw pile It is a thick-walled steel pipe with metal blades at the base, which is screwed into the ground manually or with the help of mechanisms. After deepening, the pile is cut to the desired height, and poured with concrete mortar.

1. Monolithic concrete pad, is used in case of difficult hydrological conditions of the soil with a high level of groundwater. It is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is poured on the spot, over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pit.

Advice! The distance between the bearing supports of the columnar foundation should be no more than 2 meters. If the distance between the corners of the building and the intersection of the walls is greater, an additional intermediate support must be installed.

External and internal walls

Before you build baths with your own hands, you need to decide on the material of the walls. Most often, brick and natural wood are used for these purposes.

In addition, sometimes the bathhouse is carried out according to the principle of frame-panel construction, where a prefabricated structure made of wooden beams is used as a frame, and the cladding is performed with composite materials based on wood-shavings with expanded polystyrene filler. Also, in some cases, the walls of the bath are erected from materials based on lightweight concrete, such as foam concrete, or wood concrete.

For those who are wondering how to build a cheap bathhouse with their own hands, it would be most appropriate to make the inner walls and piers from the same material as the outer ones. The difference mainly lies only in the thickness of the walls.

Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

1. Brick, characterized by easy accessibility, fire safety, durability, resistance to high humidity and exposure to rodents, pests, mold fungi. The construction of a bath from it does not require any special skills, and is available for do-it-yourself work. Among the shortcomings, it should be noted the low thermal insulation capacity, high weight, relatively high cost of material and construction costs.

1. Natural wood, environmentally friendly, due to its porous structure, has good thermal insulation and breathability, has a small specific gravity. In our latitudes, it is an affordable and relatively inexpensive building material; the construction of walls takes a little time. However, a long time is required for shrinkage and shrinkage of a log house, practical skills are required for construction, a tree has an increased fire hazard, it does not resist water well, it is unstable against mold, rodents and various pests.
2. The advantages of frame-panel construction lies in the simplicity and high speed of construction of such objects, their mobility and versatility. If necessary, the bath can be converted into a barn, living quarters, or even moved to another place. In general, this relatively new method has recently begun to gain popularity, and you can learn more about it from the materials on how to build a shield bath with your own hands.
3. Structures made of lightweight concrete or wood concrete, which replaced foam concrete, are structures made of blocks made from a mixture of chopped wood-fiber materials with cement mortar. This one, relatively new material combines the properties of natural wood and monolithic brick. It is characterized by high strength, durability, fire resistance, low specific gravity, good thermal insulation and breathability, resistance to moisture, rodents and mold fungus. However, it is better to protect it from direct contact with water.

Based on the above characteristics, everyone can make the best decision for themselves what to build a bath from.

Sauna oven

As you know, one of the most important elements of any bath is its stove. From ancient times, and until today, the most wide use has a brick stove-heater, which is heated by wood or coal.

The furnace of such a furnace, made of refractory bricks, has thick-walled metal grates in its lower part, through which, from the blowing compartment, air is supplied to the furnace, which ensures stable combustion of the fuel and a quick temperature rise.

There are some features that are not inherent in a conventional home stove.

• The stove is usually equipped in such a way that it simultaneously heats the steam room, the washing department, and the rest room, which is often combined with a dressing room.
• From the side of the washing compartment, a heat exchanger enters the oven, into which cold water is supplied from below, heating up, goes up, and enters the hot water tank. Thus, constantly circulating, it heats up to a high temperature.
• From the side of the steam room, on the stove there is a compartment for stones. In the process of heating the stove, the stones are heated, and during the adoption of bath procedures, after supplying small portions of water to them, they give off heat in the form of superheated water vapor to the steam room, which is the whole process of soaring. The more stones on the stove, the longer the bath can keep warm.

With good insulation, it makes sense to use electric heaters, the price of which will be lower than the cost of construction and operation wood stove. In them, the stones are heated by the heat of powerful electric heaters.

The advantages of such stoves are ease of installation and operation, fairly quick heating of the room, no need for firewood, periodic fuel tossing. Also, they are lightweight and compact in size.

From negative qualities such furnaces, it should be noted their high consumption of electricity, and in some cases, their operation requires a three-phase power supply, which is not available in every country house.

Note! needs arrangements for it separate foundation, in no way connected with the supporting foundation of the bath. For electric ovens, its installation is not required.

Engineering communications equipment

In order for the bath to serve as a full-fledged resting place and satisfy all the needs of sanitary and hygienic procedures, it must be equipped with all the necessary communications.

The water supply can be brought using an ordinary metal-plastic pipe, laying it underground in a protective sheath with thermal insulation.

Sewerage also needs to be equipped with an underground laying of a plastic pipe for outdoor use, connecting it to the common drain manifold of the house, and directing the drain from the bath to the septic tank.

The supply of electricity can be performed using both underground and overhead cable power lines. For this purpose, you need to use a special cable of a suitable cross section, connecting it after laying to switchboard Your house.

Conclusion

Many owners of suburban areas are concerned about the question: how to quickly build a bathhouse with your own hands? This article, as well as other materials on similar topics, is aimed at helping readers get an answer to their question. If this theoretical material not enough, you can watch the video in this article.

For a Russian person, a bath is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that love for a bath broom and good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages nearby, next to rickety dilapidated huts, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I, during a trip to France, could not stand two days without his own steam, urgently ordering the construction of a Russian bathhouse right on the banks of a foreign river, which shocked the natives a lot. But what to do if it is so expensive to build today, and not everyone likes public steam rooms? And if rest in the steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the cunning tricks of modern Russian masters who manage to build their steam rooms literally for vacation pay.

So let's take a look at the most successful projects construction of baths and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not to lose the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budgetary bath is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.

What can and cannot be saved on when building a bath?

Agree, not a single saving is worth the loss of health, property or life. But the saddest situations occur when the issue of cheapness is thoughtlessly approached: such baths first slowly poison their owners with the release of hazardous substances, and then either burn or quickly deteriorate. But this does not mean that it is better to give up all hard-earned conscience construction team- it is better to simply refuse from the dangerous use in construction from the very beginning:

1. Non-certified materials and fakes, for which unscrupulous sellers ask many times less. And at the same time, they convince the buyer that “there is no difference with expensive material, there is simply no markup for the brand, my brother / matchmaker / son-in-law has had a bath with this for half a century, and nothing.”
2. Materials that are categorically not intended for the construction and decoration of baths. So, if it is impossible to insulate the walls in the sauna with foam plastic, then it is impossible, and this is not a whim of the manufacturer. Again, a neighbor who, at his own peril and risk, insulated in this way and now boasts is not an example.
3. Unsuitable components for conducting electricity in the bath (wires, sockets), unprotected lamps or cheap Chinese products.
4. Homemade stoves and water heaters that no one tested for fire safety.
5. Combustible materials and those that do not indicate that they can be used in conditions of high humidity and heat.

If you are building a bathhouse with your own hands and are forced to save as much as possible on materials, calculate your every step well, consult with experts and do not disregard anything “it seems to work”. And finally, save on a limited budget is better on cubic meters of the steam room, but not on the materials for its decoration. Such is the advice.

Let's look a little at affordable heaters. So, basalt wool is made from stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are not connected by chemical means, but by another technology, and therefore, even when placed behind the foil, hazardous substances will not be released into the steam room. This insulation is not combustible and well insulates the firebox. For a bath - the most the best way. If you want to save money, then put one layer of basalt wool and a couple of layers of another, cheaper material on the ceiling.

Penofol is also used as an economical option - porous propylene with a polyethylene film and foil spraying. You can buy it at roll form, and fasten immediately to a bare wall. This material is a good bridge of heat between the wall itself and the insulation.

1. Buy a stove without an external firebox - this way it will take much less firewood to heat the steam room, and such a unit is inexpensive.
2. Be sure to install a water tank - this is the fastest and most economical way.
3. Make a cheap removable foundation for a bath: it is much cheaper and easier to carry out repairs and change to another one later.
4. Pay maximum attention to the insulation of the bath - the less you “heat the street”, the more economical the heating itself will be.
5. Stick a wrapping film with bubbles on the window in the rest room in winter - this will retain at least 50% heat.
6. Instead of an ordinary shower or shower stall, put a traditional Russian tub. Yes, and healthier, by the way. And it is not at all necessary to pour only ice water into it.
7. When purchasing lining, take bars of short sizes - they are cheaper and look no worse.
8. Build a low roof near the bath, no more than a ratio of width and height of 1: 3. Such a design will take much less materials, and the chimney will also not need to be made high.

Project #1 - a compact sauna at a minimum cost

So the step by step process:

• Step 1 - foundation. We will make the foundation columnar. To do this, you will need to get a 2 meter auger drill. As a casing, take ordinary cheap sewer pipes by 110 mm. Insert reinforcement from two connected rods.

• Step 2 - strapping. Place 500 mm long studs under the harness. Assemble the harness 150x150, and prepare the frame racks with a height of 2200 mm. Treat the frame with Neomid 440 or some other suitable for the same purpose.
• Step 3 - walls. You can finish the walls right on the strapping, and just lift them. We sew CSP. To do this, pre-drill the plates, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws with a semicircular head.
• Step 4 - the roof. The roof is covered with eight-wave slate. Let's save!
• Step 5 - warming. Now we put any inexpensive insulation that is suitable for a bath. In this project - Linerock Light.
• Step 6 - oven. We put an inexpensive stove, you can make it yourself. But under any, we must additionally lay out a brick corner.
• Step 7 - finishing. We fasten lining, plinths, cashers.

So a compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.

If the walls, due to economy, are not too strong, then the smaller the bath, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.

Project # 2 - wood concrete is used

But good example construction of a budget bath from wood concrete - the price is not much more expensive than frame technology. So, the outer walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, inside - a brick partition from the stove.

Here's what the build process looks like:

• Step 1. We dig a drain hole with dimensions of 1.2x1.8x1.4 m. On both sides we fill up the OPGS with stones, make a formwork, fill it.
• Step 2. We dig a foundation 30 cm wide, up to 50 cm deep. We fill it with sand and ram.
• Step 3. We put the formwork, we reinforce two rods at the top and bottom. We put vertical bars through the meter. We pour the foundation.
• Step 4. We put EPPS, mesh in the washing and steam room and fill the floors. In the washing room, we additionally organize a drain.

• Step 5. We put the blocks, check the evenness of the walls with a level.
• Step 6 We make a roof using 50x100 boards. The optimal distance between the rafters is 55-80 cm. We cover.
• Step 7. We cook the oven or buy a budget ready-made one. The ventilation scheme is suitable as follows: from the outside, the air goes to the gap between the stove and brick wall where it is heated.
• Step 8. We install a shower tank in the attic.
• Step 9 We finish the walls from the inside. If possible, use Izospan FB - a material special for baths, plus heat-resistant tape. Isolon is good for the ceiling, which can withstand temperatures up to 150 ° C.

Such a budget and quite successful bath turns out.

When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: in terms of its density, it can be heat-insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg / m, the second - 500-850 kg / m. This material is used to build self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.

Project # 3 - a miniature bathhouse made of timber in the national style

And if you can’t imagine a Russian steam room from another material, like timber, you can build such a relatively budget option.

• Step 1. We level the platform for the foundation from screenings, put together the “formwork” and leave only an opening for draining water from the washing room.
• Step 2. Lay out the EPPS, knit reinforcing cage. We fill it with concrete, make a slope for water and the foundation is ready.
• Step 3. We lay the log house. Under the first crown we put a board treated with an antiseptic, which we close with roofing felt on three sides. You can put moss on the board itself - it has antiseptic properties, and therefore the crown of the bath will last even longer.
• Step 4 We build the walls and leave it for several months to shrink.
• Step 5 We fix the rafters and cover the roof. We make a pipe passage through the ceiling - it is easy to make it from a metal corner and a stainless steel sheet.
• Step 6. Between the steam room and the dressing room we make a frame partition, insulate it with mineral wool and sheathe it on both sides with clapboard.
• Step 7. We lay out the floor in front of the stove with porcelain stoneware. We leave a special hole in the floor - for forced ventilation.
• Step 8. We bring the pipe from the furnace through the roof. The passage is made of Master Flush rubber, which is resistant to temperature. The joint with the roofing is sealed with MS-polymer.
• Step 9 We fix the shelves in the steam room and conduct electricity.

Remember: the first step to huge savings when building your own bath is to build it yourself!

Project #4 - a steam room on a light frame from improvised means

Bars for the frame of the bath can be made even from the collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is to choose from them without defects and knots, and be sure to treat with an antiseptic.

So let's build budget bath from improvised means:

• Step 1. We make bars for the frame, process and dry.
• Step 2. We build a pile-rubble foundation: we tear out the soil with a drill for a meter, forget the thick pine stakes there and make a backfill of concrete and stones on top. Next, fill the pillars already to the top.
• Step 4. We assemble the frame.
• Step 5. We dig a hole under the drain, insert a barrel with broken bricks and rubble inside, and bring the ladder out there. This is a summer version that is not insulated, and for winter, you can lay a heater or a heating cable.
• Step 6. and the ceiling, put a film on top of the insulation. On the walls and ceiling we put Finnish sauna foil paper.
• Step 7. We put the oven. Take it with a register, because. you need water heating for washing - in order not to purchase a boiler separately. So, it has proven itself - inexpensive and warms well.

Such a bath surprisingly lasts a long time, steam pleases and spending time in it is a pleasure. And you can always find cons.

Mini-baths: cheap and cheerful

But if there are no funds at all for the construction of a steam room, you should not despair - today there are many options to build a steam room literally from nothing. Let's take a closer look.

Barrel bath

This is the most common, only more solid sizes. Part of it is covered by a wooden lattice screen, behind which the stove is hidden. There is a small bench in front of the screen. Even three people can steam at the same time in such a bath. But this option is only summer: they rolled it out onto the site, put it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option - very much even nothing.

Camping bath

Such a bath is taken mainly on a hike, but in the absence of another alternative, it can also be used on the site. It will be inexpensive, because it is an ordinary tent in which they put a stove or an electric one. This is no longer the same soft Russian bath, but as a temporary phenomenon it also has the right to exist.

Built-in mini sauna

There was also a fashion to do in the bathroom. So let's transfer washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something similar to a closet. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of a frame and upholstered with clapboard. Inside - one shelf for the seat and a built-in steam generator. The person sits down, closes the door, turns on the appliance. But his head remains outside - for safety's sake. When using special aromatic oils and other SPA elements, it is quite a good way to improve your health. We can say that this is the smallest and cheapest bath in the world.

Baths in the car

If you have the opportunity to get a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can build a small bathhouse right in them. Our website even has detailed master classes how to do it, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room with pouring the foundation. Experiment!

A small do-it-yourself bath is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the cottage is limited. In addition, with such a solution, you can significantly save the budget, but as a result you get full place rest, which will not only allow you to relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a good time with family and friends.

Project examples

Ideally, the bath includes 4 rooms in its design:

• dressing room;
• restroom;
• washing;

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of the stay is not lost. The overall size of the building will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

• 1.20 mx2.50 m Very compact solution. In this case, the bath consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m × 1.50 m, the second - 1 m × 1.20 m. There is no rest room, and you can change clothes in the dressing room. Washing can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
• 2.50 m × 2.50 m. By the number of rooms - like the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m × 1.50 m, the dressing room is 1 m × 2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize additional space for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can easily fit.
• 3 m × 3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If there is a desire that three people fit in the steam room, then it can be made 3 m × 1.50 m in size, the washing room can be made separate by putting a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there remains a space that can be used as a rest room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
• 4 m × 3 m. In this case, 4 m 2 can be separated for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, 2 m × 3 m remains for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can easily fit. They will be able to stay in the steam room at the same time, as well as enjoy communication in the dressing room.
• 4 m × 4 m. In such a territory it is already possible to turn around well. The steam room can be left 2 m × 2 m in size. Make a separate dressing room 2 m × 1.50 m in size. In this case, the relaxation room is 4 m × 2 m (one of the sides will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room, for this an electric boiler and a shower cubicle are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the rooms within the available limits. You may want to make the steam room smaller, as there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Note! All measurements are given in ideal values ​​without taking into account the thickness of the partition walls. This was done for greater clarity. In the case when the bath is adjacent to the house, then it can be made in the form of one steam room. At the same time, the bathroom will act as a washing room, and the rest of the territory is available for relaxation.

Choosing a material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on which project you have chosen, as well as the planned amount of money. For example, you can use ordinary brick. How to build a brick bath, you can read. In this case, the following points will be positive:

• availability;
• ease of delivery;
• relative ease of construction;
• long service life (with proper care - up to 150 years);
• ease of maintenance;
• the possibility of combining with the main structure;
• when using a new brick, there is no need for cladding;
• freedom to choose the form of construction.

TO negative aspects can be attributed:

• the high cost of the material;
• the need for good ventilation, tk. brick has poor vapor conductivity;
• kindling such a bath takes more time than wooden buildings;
• high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

• light weight with large size;
• high laying speed;
• ease of fitting block shapes;
• good thermal insulation;
• relatively low price;
• excellent sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• subject to the recommendations - a small consumption of glue.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

• uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
• shrinkage may occur within a few months;
• poor bending stability.

The most favorite way of manufacturing is rounded logs. There is a lot to be said about its benefits, here are just a few:

• high environmental friendliness;
• pleasant appearance;
• low heat capacity;
• no need for interior and exterior decoration;
• nice interior atmosphere.

The negative side is:

• unprofitable to use in small buildings;
• some complexity of construction;
• the high cost of the material;
• long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and quick options is the construction of a frame structure. This method will require minimal building skills. The advantages are:

• no need for a massive foundation;
• availability of materials;
• relatively low cost compared to other options;
• ease of care;
• very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
• ease of laying communications;
• seismic resistance;
• no shrinkage.

Of the minuses, one can note the need for good sound insulation. A high level of boominess is the transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to take care of good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case when a really small bath is planned, it makes no sense to sink the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you don’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

At the stage of laying the foundation, the necessary communications are provided. This may be a water supply and a sewer drain for water from a washing.

Note! If it is known that soils in your area are highly mobile, then an unburied foundation is a poor option, because it can easily collapse under the pressure of the layers. In this case, it is better to evaluate the possibility of installing piles.

pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored and driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcing rods are lowered, and the entire space is poured with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are immediately clogged. The most suitable options for a small bath will be screw. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades, which contribute to the immersion of the supports into the ground. You can buy them or make your own. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

In each of the options described, separate support elements for the stove should also be provided, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can damage the floor and lag.

Note! This foundation is ideal for frame structures, log buildings, as well as small foam block baths. If the soil in the area where construction is planned is sufficiently strong and rocky, then something in between a pile and strip foundation can be used - columnar. In this case, individual pits with a size of 50 × 50 cm are dug out every meter to a level below the freezing of the soil. A formwork, a metal crate is installed inside and a solution is poured.

Building brick walls

For a bath, it is better to use a red brick that has passed heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the amount required material, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone brick. The area of ​​the masonry seams can be neglected, because you still need to make a reserve in case of a fight or marriage.

The wall can be built using several methods:

• in two bricks with external insulation.
• with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
• with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because it is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To maintain the vertical level of future walls, two metal profiles 5 × 5 cm and a length equal to the height of the future walls are dug in at the corners. They are leveled and secured with braces. Between them, a fishing line is stretched to the height of one row. After it is laid, the fishing line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20–25 mm. It must be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using bubble level. If the second and third type of masonry is chosen, then it is necessary to provide a dressing between the two walls. This is ensured by the transverse laying of two bricks opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should go with an offset of half a brick, so that the overall weave of the entire plane is ensured.

over windows or doorways a jumper must be installed. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can buy it ready-made or fill it directly on the spot. It should go beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed, a wooden board is mounted on them. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them are reinforcement bars, which should also go beyond the opening by 25 cm, while it is better to bend them in order to intertwine with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete solidification (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general principle of laying will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start from the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made of profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

• In order to achieve the best adhesion, the row-base is laid on a cement mortar. The ratio with sand is better to make 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
• All other rows are fixed with special glue.
• The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
• Every 3 rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam, which serves to give additional rigidity.
• Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
• Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

It is this option that pops up in the imagination when it comes to the bath. For its manufacture, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make external walls from this material. Because the design is small, it is good if the partitions are frame.

After the construction of the walls is completed, the primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply hammered into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation has been erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is performed according to the example of the grillage, which was mentioned above. For corner posts we need exactly the same beam as for the base. In addition, it will be necessary to stock up on an edged board with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5–10 cm.

Roof erection

For small buildings, a pitched roof is the ideal solution. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, then in the case of a wall of brick and foam block, waterproofing from bikrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base with anchor bolts or immured studs. Beams are laid on top, on which the crate will be stuffed. They can be fixed to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another version, the walls are made the same. Ceiling beams are laid on the Mauerlat. On one side, vertical boards are installed that will form a pediment, rafter legs are lowered from them to another wall. At the junction with the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. Fastened with metal corners. To make it easier to support the roof in one plane, two extreme elements are first installed. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the ceiling beams from above. In this role, dense foil can act. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed in the space between the beams. Additionally, it is covered with plastic wrap. From the inside, filing is done using a wooden lining or a polished edged board. Read more about the insulation of the ceiling in the bath.

Note! For a house made of timber, when attaching the rafter legs to the Mauerlat, it is better to use floating corners. This is necessary so that during shrinkage the roof does not skew.

finish line

An integral part of each bath is a stove. It can be made independently from sheet material or metal pipe large diameter. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it may take large space. For a small space, it is better to use electric options that are purchased ready-made.

Shelves are mounted inside the steam room. For him, it is better not to use coniferous wood, because. when heated, it may release resin, which will cause burns. A good material for it would be aspen, larch, linden or oak. With a small space, a width of 40 cm will suffice, it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fixing material must be recessed flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the whole structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, a double-braided cable must be used. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually there is a prefix “ng” in the marking). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. Switches are not mounted in the steam room itself. Luminaires are used waterproof with index IP68.

Take care of good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with an outlet to the gable through the roof. This will be enough for all the moisture to be removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bath from. Choose the option that best suits you.

Scheme

Frame-panel bath with a porch