Plates can be laid on gas silicate blocks. floor slabs

The cover is Basic structure, designed for separating floors in large-panel construction or separating living rooms from attic spaces in brick, frame private houses. It is located horizontally, as a rule, consists of reinforced concrete slabs, but can be monolithic or precast-monolithic. Must be strong enough to support its own weight, other parts of the building and current loads (furniture, people, etc.). Installation of floor slabs is usually carried out according to a project drawn up by engineers, which avoids unnecessary additional costs and ensures the reliability of the buildings under construction.

For private construction, you can calculate the plan yourself and select the appropriate materials. Reinforced concrete products for individual developers are affordable, allow for hidden communications in voids, have good sound insulation. In order to choose them correctly, it is advisable to navigate in their types, types, markings.

Reinforced concrete floor slabs are as follows:

hollow - have air cavities of circular cross section, due to which they have good soundproofing and heat-insulating properties;
ribbed - in the form of the letter P, used for roofing, more often - in industrial construction to cover garages, hangars, warehouses, laying communications and other things;
monolithic - reinforced structures of increased strength, designed for high loads, therefore they are usually used for the construction of multi-storey residential complexes.

Floor slab marking

The GOST-certified material has a set of letters and numbers, sorting out which you can choose the right equipment, taking into account the thickness, diameter of the cavities, length, width, type of reinforcement, number of supports.

The first two letters indicate the type of slab (PK - hollow, PR - ribbed, PB - monolithic) and that it can be placed on 2 supports. The third letter "T" - means the ability to lay the overlap on the 3rd side (PKT). Additional "K" - a sign that the slab is placed on 4 load-bearing walls (PKK). If the letters “L” and “C” are indicated in the marking, then they indicate the type of concrete, respectively: light and silicate. The numbers following the letters show the size in decimeters, the values are usually rounded, and the actual length is 20 mm and the width is 10 mm less. Then the calculated floor load in hundreds of kg per m2 and the type of reinforcement are indicated.

For example, the marking of goods PK63.12-3.AtVta is a hollow slab 6280 mm long, 1190 mm wide, withstanding 300 kgf / m2, with a reinforced lower surface.

Calculation of floor slabs

Since the structure provides strength to the structure and presses on the load-bearing walls with its weight, it is important to correctly distribute the load. This will ensure the reliability, durability of the building, and, of course, the safety of future residents. Incorrect calculation of the strength of the support and the floor panel can lead to gradual cracking of the walls and deformation of the slab itself.

In an ordinary residential building, the load per 1 m 2 of the floor is approximately as follows: people - about 200 kg, partitions - 150 kg, screed and coating - about 150 kg. This is already 500 kg, and it is also necessary to take into account furniture, equipment, household appliances and other things that will be in the room. Do not forget about temporary loads either: festive table, two dozen guests, snow, rain, hail also have their own weight, so it is better to do the calculation with a margin (if the foundation and load-bearing walls allow) than to calibrate everything to kg, and then be forced to limit the load. Depending on the purpose of the floors (basement, basement, interfloor, attic), structures are designed differently.

Do-it-yourself installation features

Before starting work, you must familiarize yourself with the standard technological map for laying floor slabs. It describes in detail the stages of work, equipment and safety precautions, drawings are attached.

For laying reinforced concrete products, lifting equipment is needed, a crane operator and two certified slingers will be needed. Do-it-yourself installation of plates without qualified assistants is contrary to safety regulations.

In the process of unloading or working, it is not recommended to drag blocks or let them fall freely. Perfectly
it is required to build supports (from wooden beam) specially for storage of plates. You can schedule the laying of the panels right away by lifting them directly from the truck: this will save you a lot, since the crane operator has to be paid for each lift, and the materials will be safer.

The panels must be laid on cement mortar from M100 so that they rest on the load-bearing walls by at least 100 mm. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the position of the floor slab to be mounted is even and that each of them fits perfectly. It is recommended to check the level of the panels with each masonry. If necessary, they are lifted by a crane and shifted again. After the masonry is completed, the slabs are cleaned and the joints are filled. cement mortar.

The support node of the floor slab of a brick residential building is usually 100-120 mm. Bearing masonry must not protrude beyond the width of the foundation, otherwise it may not support the weight.

Installation of plates on gas silicate blocks requires larger area pressure on the supports (up to 250 mm), as they are less durable than fired bricks. In this case, it is desirable to strengthen the walls with a reinforced belt.

Quality control of the installation of floor panels

Installation of prefabricated monolithic ceiling

The advantages of this type of construction are low cost, relative safety of work, no need to rent lifting equipment and hire highly qualified workers. Small lightweight slabs can be used various kinds: cellular, ribbed, beam. But there is also a minus: the time spent on setting the concrete.

Laying beam-type slabs consists of the following steps:

drawing up a work plan, calculation of materials, fittings and other things;
formwork assembly;
installation of wooden or iron props;
installation of waterproofing on roofing or polyethylene formwork;
reinforcement;
slab laying;
re-reinforcement (if necessary, depending on the type of beam);
pouring with a liquid mortar using cement grade from M300;
formwork removal after 28 days.

Installation of cellular concrete slabs is carried out according to the same principle. It is important to arrange a canopy or cover the structure with a film so that weather conditions do not affect the quality of work.

Price

When buying slabs, pay attention that they are even, with a good surface, without a radioactive background of reinforcement. One product costs the buyer from 3,800 rubles. The price of laying slabs includes the rental of equipment, hiring a team and the cost of materials and electricity. Do-it-yourself precast-monolithic flooring costs only 1,000 rubles / m 2, since it does not require additional costs.

Articles

Comments:

The question of how to carry out the installation of floor slabs becomes relevant during the construction of any room. At first glance, it may seem that installation is quite simple, but there are some nuances that need to be considered when building and erecting a building.

Floor slabs are reinforced concrete products designed for arranging interfloor ceilings.

To understand how to lay the slabs, you need to know the technology and rules for laying floor slabs. Reinforced concrete structures can be divided as follows:

round-hollow ceilings;
tented (ribbed);
long ribbed.

Some people prefer to use monolithic reinforced concrete slabs but this option is more expensive. The most common types that are used for floors are reinforced concrete round-hollow. They have good thermal conductivity, sound insulation.

Floor slab installation technology

For installation, you must have:

round-hollow reinforced concrete slabs;
truck crane;
cement mortar (cement, water, sand);
Master OK;
grinders or autogen;
sledgehammers;
level;
scrap;
steel brush;
tow;
gypsum mortar;
lime-gypsum mortar;
thermal insulation material;
welding machine.

It cannot be said that the installation of floor slabs - easy process; on the contrary, it is considered quite time-consuming and risky.

Any foundation is not even and smooth, therefore, before installing reinforced concrete floor slabs, it would be correct and expedient to make the foundation even, for example, lay out a row of bricks on a concrete base. To check how even the surface is, you can use the level, level. It is possible to lay floor slabs only on the most even surface, the further service life of the entire building depends on this.

It is necessary to take care of the strength of the foundation, because due to heaving of the soil, its deformation can occur, and no matter how responsibly the builders approach the installation and how the floor slabs are laid, the building will squint over time.

You can fix the foundation with the usual reinforced mesh, which is subsequently applied concrete mortar and floor slabs are installed. Cement must be at least grade 100. The height of the cement layer must be at least 20 cm.

Before installing reinforced concrete floor slabs, you need to prepare them.

If there are flaws, protrusions or chips on the surface, they must be eliminated.

To understand how to lay the slabs, before installing and installing reinforced concrete floor structures, you need to calculate the width so that they occupy the entire perimeter and do not leave uncovered parts. The calculation scheme is quite simple.

Before the installation process, a substrate is laid out from concrete mix. Laying floor slabs is possible only with the help of a truck crane, since their weight is large enough. Having hooked reinforced concrete slabs on the hinges, they are lifted and placed in the right place. Moreover, it will not work to carry out the laying alone; for this process, a team of 3-5 people is needed. When installing, it is necessary to ensure that each plate lies flat, all elements should be as close as possible to each other. Due to the fact that the cement footboard does not harden immediately, the plates will be movable for some time, and installation inaccuracies can be corrected by correcting them with a crowbar.

It is necessary to lay floor slabs only on the main walls of the future premises. Installation of internal partitions and walls is carried out after the installation of floor slabs, and they must rest on the wall by 12 cm. Adjacent slabs must be attached to each other with mounting loops. For laying, it is better to use a cement-sand mortar, it must be liquid, the sand is carefully sifted, otherwise even if small debris gets in, it can lead to deformation of the floor and ceiling.

After the installation of the floor slabs, there are seams between them that must be sealed. Using a steel brush, all seams must be cleaned. The gaps between the elements of the reinforced concrete structure are filled with tow, pre-moistened with gypsum mortar. The tow layer must be compacted. When the gypsum mixture dries, its volume increases, so the tow will press against the walls as much as possible. After that, the gaps are covered with lime-gypsum mortar.

The ends present also need to be sealed so that the plates do not freeze during the cold season.

For this you can apply mineral wool, concrete mortar or backing brick.

In any construction process, force majeure situations can occur, for example, slabs can burst if unloading rules are violated or they were stored incorrectly.

But throw away so expensive construction material impractical. They can be installed on 3 main walls. Or they can carry out the installation of the attic, in this place the load is minimal.

Back to index

Laying floor slabs: important points

For the accuracy of the design, you need to draw a diagram with all sizes, so you can avoid gaps and lack of plates. If there are still large gaps, they can be filled with cinder block, and small gaps and cracks can be filled with concrete mortar.

When installing hollow core slabs, care must be taken to ensure that they are laid with the smooth side down. They should be located as close to each other as possible - even the smallest gaps should be avoided. You need to lay them, adjusting to each other along the bottom edge.

When installing floor slabs on a foundation base, it is very important to know that they should only be installed on 2 walls, and with short, not long sides. This method of installation is needed in order to prevent possible deformation and displacement if the foundation “sags”.

The thing is that in such cases, the entire weight of the structure moves to the third, long side, and cracks or gaps may appear on the short sides, and this cannot be allowed. Also, one should not forget that the short sides of reinforced concrete blanks should not be fully installed on the walls - by 11-15 cm. This will help reduce heat loss in the further operation of any room.

You should immediately think about where the communications will take place in order to leave gaps between the floor slabs for them.

After the installation of reinforced concrete structures, it is imperative to tie them with reinforcing bars for the strength and strength of the future premises. For this, rods with a diameter of 9-12 mm are suitable, you can use class A1 wire rod (when loads arise, it will stretch and not break). The rods are welded at one end to the loop, and the other end to the loop of the adjacent floor blank. It is impossible to connect several reinforced concrete slabs at once - only two slabs are interconnected. WITH outside plates are fixed with anchors.

Be sure to pay attention to the rules of transportation, unloading and storage of reinforced concrete structures and materials so that they do not undergo deformation. Between the iron concrete slabs be sure to put wooden bars at the same distance and in the same places, otherwise they may burst under load.

In some cases, when reinforced concrete slabs for a long time are in the cold, they can freeze, then due to the moisture that will be in reinforced concrete structures, fungus and mold can form. To avoid this, you need to make small holes in each blank at a distance of 25 cm from each other and blow into them mounting foam. Thus, reinforced concrete structures will not absorb moisture.

Currently, in our country, the most popular are three methods of building floors in the house. This is the installation of floor slabs, the device of a monolithic iron concrete floor and a device for overlapping wooden (rarely metal) beams. We will definitely talk about all these methods and not only. And the first technology that we will consider is the installation of finished floor slabs.

First, a little about the floor slabs themselves. Depending on their shape, all plates can be divided into flat and ribbed. Flat, in turn, are divided into solid and hollow. We are now interested in void ones, because it is this type of slabs that is used mainly in low-rise construction.

Hollow core slabs, in turn, are also classified according to various parameters, such as the shape and size of the voids, the thickness of the slabs, the manufacturing technology of the slabs, and the method of reinforcement.

I will not delve into the topic of classification. It is better to look for this information on the websites of enterprises producing reinforced concrete products (reinforced concrete products). We'd better talk directly about the installation.

The very first point that you need to pay attention to even at the design stage of your future home is the opportunity to purchase in your area exactly the slabs of the sizes that are laid down in the project. Each manufacturer has its own specific range of manufactured products and it is always limited. This is really important and it surprises me that very often developers forget about this recommendation and then they have to either cut one or more slabs, or do it on the floor monolithic section. We'll talk more about this below.

Storage of floor slabs at the construction site.

Of course, it's great if you have the opportunity to lay floor slabs immediately upon delivery, directly from the machine that brought them. But most of the time this doesn't happen. Or the driver insists that you unload the plates as quickly as possible, because. he is in a hurry for the next order, or the plates are not laid on the machine in the order you need, or you just bought them in advance and are not going to lay them yet. In all these cases, the plates will need to be stored on your site.

Try to choose a flat surface for this. Never lay tiles directly on the ground. Be sure to put something under the edges of the slab, for example, trimming a wooden beam. There should be only two linings, at a distance of about 25-40 cm from the edges. Linings cannot be placed under the middle of the plate.

Boards can be stacked up to 2.5 meters high. Make the linings under the first slab higher so that in the event of their possible indentation into the ground when laying subsequent slabs, the first one in no case touches the ground, otherwise it can easily break. It is enough to make all subsequent linings even from an inch (2.5 cm). They must be stacked strictly on top of each other.

Preparation for installation of floor slabs.

Preparation begins even at the moment when the masons kick out the last rows of masonry. The slabs will lie evenly and without drops if the top rows bearing walls will be straight and will be in the same horizontal plane.

To achieve this, there must be horizontal level marks in all corners of the overlapped room. They are put in the process of building walls with the help of a level, or laser level or hydraulic level. And when the last row of masonry is done, the distance from the marks to the top of the walls is controlled with a tape measure. It should be the same in all corners. From my own experience, I can tell you for sure that some masons neglect this, especially when they make backing masonry at the same time as the front one, performed “under the bar”.

The top row of load-bearing walls should be bonded. That is, if you look from inside the overlapped room, then only poking should be visible on the load-bearing walls (on which the floor slabs rest) in the uppermost row of masonry.

If the slabs are placed on a load-bearing partition 1.5 bricks thick (i.e., the slabs rest on it on both sides), then the top row of such a partition is laid out in one of two ways:

Before laying floor slabs on walls from various blocks (foam concrete, gas silicate, slag, etc.), it is necessary to make a reinforced concrete belt (usually about 15-20 cm thick). Such a belt is made either by pouring concrete into the formwork, or using special U-shaped blocks around the entire perimeter of the house box, i.e. not only on load-bearing walls, but also on non-bearing ones.

When installing hollow core slabs, the holes in them must be sealed. It is much more convenient to do this in advance, while the plates are still on the ground. In general, SNiP prescribes to seal voids without fail on the side of the slab that rests on outer wall(to reduce the likelihood of freezing of the slab), and from the side that rests on the internal partition, only starting from the third floor from the top of the house and below (to increase strength). That is, if, for example, the house has a basement floor, a floor between the 1st and 2nd floor and an attic floor over the 2nd floor, then it is mandatory to close the voids from the side of the load-bearing partitions only in the basement floor.

I will say that when laying the slabs, we always close up the holes. Moreover, in Lately increasingly round hollow core slabs, come from factories with holes already sealed. It's comfortable. If the holes are not sealed, we insert a one-and-a-half brick (maybe even a half) into them and pass the remaining gaps with mortar.

Also, before installing the plates, it is necessary to prepare a site for the crane in advance. Well, if in the place where the crane will stand, the soil is, as they say, native, caked. Worse, when the ground is bulk. If you have a basement, you can not put the tap too close to the house, in order to avoid what is shown in the figure below:

In such cases, it is better to order a truck crane with a longer boom. Also, sometimes in the place where the crane will stand, you first have to put several road slabs (usually there are used ones somewhere). Often this has to be done in the fall in rainy and slushy weather, when the site is so “broken” that the crane simply gets stuck on it.

Floor slab laying.

For the installation of floor slabs is enough three people. One clings to the slabs, two lay. If desired, you can cope with two, although not always. It happens that when overlapping, for example, the second floor, the installers and the crane operator do not see each other. Then at the top, in addition to 2 people directly laying the slab, there should be another person who will give commands to the crane operator.

Laying starts from the wall on a mortar layer of no more than 2 cm. The mortar must be thick enough so that the slab does not squeeze it completely out of the seam. After the crane operator places the slab on the walls, he first leaves the lines taut. At the same time, with the help of a crowbar, the plate, if necessary, is not difficult to move a little. If the upper surfaces of the load-bearing walls were made even, then the slabs will lie flat, without drops, as they say "from the first approach."

Regarding the size of the support of the plates on the walls, I will give an extract from the document “Manual for the design of residential buildings. Issue. 3 (to SNiP 2.08.01-85) 6. FLOORS ":

Paragraph 6.16.: The depth of support of prefabricated slabs on the walls, depending on the nature of their support, is recommended to be taken at least, mm: when supported along the contour, as well as on two long and one short sides - 40; when supported on two sides and a span of slabs of 4.2 m or less, as well as on two short and one long sides - 50; when supported on two sides and the span of plates is more than 4.2 m - 70.

When assigning the depth of support for floor slabs, the requirements of SNiP 2.03.01-84 for anchoring reinforcement on supports should also be taken into account.

In our practice, we try to support at least 12 cm, since now it is possible to purchase exactly the plates that are needed. The step of their lengths is 10 cm.

I often hear disputes about whether hollow core slabs can be supported on three sides (two short and one long) and how long it is possible to put the slab on the wall with the long side. From what is written above, it follows that it is possible to support the plates in this way. But it is not so. If you read the indicated SNiP, then it says that slabs that rely on three sides have a different reinforcement scheme than those that rely on only two sides.

The vast majority of hollow core slabs, which are now produced by reinforced concrete factories, are designed specifically to rest on two short sides, so it is not recommended to start them with the long side on the wall. Under a certain load, this can lead to cracking of the plate. The reinforcement scheme and, therefore, the possibility of supporting the slab on a third side must be clarified with the manufacturer.

Also, an error associated with improper loading of the slab is the overlapping of two spans at once (see the figure below):

Under certain adverse conditions the plate can crack, and the place where the crack appears is absolutely unpredictable. If you still use such a scheme, make a cut with a grinder (to the depth of the disk) on the upper surface of the plate strictly above the middle partition. Thus, in which case the crack will pass exactly along this section, which, in principle, is no longer scary.

Of course, it’s good if we manage to overlap only with whole slabs. But the circumstances are different, and yet sometimes some plate (or even more than one) has to be cut along or across. To do this, you need a grinder with diamond disc on concrete, a sledgehammer, scrap and not the most frail man at a construction site.

To facilitate the work, it is better to lay the stove on a lining. Moreover, this lining is placed exactly under the cut line. At some point, the plate will simply break along this line from its own weight.

First of all, we make a cut on the upper surface of the plate with a grinder along the cut line. Then, striking with a sledgehammer from above, we cut a strip along the top of the slab. It is quite easy to break through concrete in the void area. Next, we break through with a crowbar lower part slabs (also for voids). When cutting the slab along (we always chop along the hole in the slab), it breaks rather quickly. When cutting across, if the slab has not broken after the destruction of the lower part with a crowbar, a sledgehammer strikes from the side on the vertical partitions of the slab until the victorious one.

In the process of cutting, we cut the falling reinforcement. It is possible with a grinder, but it is safer by welding or a gas cutter, especially when the reinforcement in the slab is pre-stressed. A disk from a grinder can bite. To prevent this from happening, do not cut the reinforcement to the end, leave a couple of millimeters and then break it with a blow from the same sledgehammer.

Several times in our practice, we had to cut the slabs along. But we have never used, let's say, "stumps" with a width of less than 60 cm (less than 3 holes remain), and I do not advise you. In general, when deciding on cutting a slab, all responsibility for possible consequences You take full responsibility, because not a single manufacturer will officially tell you that it is possible to cut a slab.

Let's now see what can be done if, nevertheless, a whole number of plates is not enough for you to completely cover the room:

Method 1- we put the first or last (maybe both) plates without bringing the long side to the wall. We lay the remaining gap with bricks or blocks, hanging them no more than half from the wall (see Fig.):

Method 2- we make the so-called "monolithic section". From below, a plywood formwork is placed under the slabs, it is done reinforcing cage(see figure below) and the area between the slabs is poured with concrete.

Anchoring of floor slabs.

After all the plates are laid, they are anchored. In general, if the construction of a house is carried out according to the project, then an anchoring scheme must be present in it. When there is no project, we usually use the circuit shown in the figure:

The anchor is made by bending the end into a loop that clings to the mounting loop of the plate. Before welding the anchors to each other and to the mounting loops, they must be pulled as far as possible.

After anchoring, we immediately seal with mortar all the mounting eyes in the slabs and rustication (seams between the slabs). Try not to delay it so that you don’t get into rusts construction garbage, and water was not poured into the eyes during rain and snow. If you suspect that water has got into the slabs (for example, you bought slabs with voids already sealed, and rainwater could get even during storage at the factory), it is better to release it. To do this, after laying, simply drill a small hole in the slabs from below with a perforator, into those voids where the mounting eyes are located.

Especially dangerous is the presence of water in voids in winter time when the house is not yet heated (or not completed at all) and the slabs freeze below zero. Water saturates the bottom layer of concrete, and with repeated freeze-thaw cycles, the slab simply begins to collapse.

Another way of fixing the plates is the construction of the so-called concrete ring anchor. This is a kind of the same monolithic reinforced belt, only it is not made under the slabs, but in the same plane with them, also around the entire perimeter of the house. More often, this method is used on foam concrete and other blocks.

I must say right away that we have never used it because of the much greater laboriousness. I think the ring anchor is justified in more seismic regions than our Nizhny Novgorod region.

At the end of the article, I propose to look short video, which deals with the choice of floor slabs:

In the process of building walls made of aerated concrete or foam concrete, there comes a moment when you need to take care of arrangement of interfloor ceilings, which can be from a concrete slab or from wooden beams.

Unlike houses built of brick, when installing interfloor ceilings on walls made of gas or foam concrete blocks, it is necessary to additionally provide for distributing and reinforcing belts.

In this article, we will consider the installation of wooden and reinforced concrete interfloor ceilings, when building a house from wall blocks.

The device of interfloor ceilings from a monolithic slab

Many private developers, when building a house from aerated concrete or other similar blocks, use reinforced concrete slabs as interfloor floors.

It is very reliable and solid foundations, but at the same time they have a lot of weight, which must be taken into account when building walls from building blocks.

In order for the weight of the slab to be distributed evenly and not to violate the integrity of the walls, when laying slabs, an additional structure must be made in the form of a distribution concrete or brick belt.

Installation options for a monolithic reinforced concrete slab are shown in the figure.
In the first variant, the slab rests on a concrete strip measuring 150x250 mm, located around the entire perimeter of the wall. The tape is reinforced with bars with a diameter of 10 mm and poured with concrete grade M200.

It is also necessary to leave a temperature gap of 1-2 cm between the wall and the end of the reinforced concrete slab.

To remove cold bridges, the plate and the reinforcing belt are additionally insulated using extruded polystyrene boards, 50 mm thick.

Second option is a masonry of red burnt bricks, laid in 3 rows. This is the most popular version of the distribution belt device. In this case, there is no need to build a formwork and make a reinforcing cage from rods.

But, before laying the bricks, they reinforce the wall blocks with reinforcement. To do this, grooves are cut, reinforcing bars are laid in them and filled with cement mortar.

Brickwork is also reinforced with a masonry mesh laid between the rows.

A monolithic reinforced concrete slab should go 13-14 cm deep into the wall. This is quite enough for the stability and rigidity of the structure.

Wooden floors

Wooden construction is the most preferred option when building houses from lightweight wall blocks. Wooden interfloor ceilings are much lighter than concrete ones, which means they exert less pressure on the wall, and therefore the design will be simpler.

In addition, the price of wooden logs, taking into account delivery and work, is much less than the cost of reinforced concrete slabs. There is no need to hire an expensive crane and everything can be done without the use of machinery.

In one of the articles (link) we already talked about the device for overlapping wooden beams. In it, we gave the calculation of the floor beams and the installation of the floor according to wooden lags. Perhaps this information will be useful to you. But back to our topic.

As we have already mentioned, setting wooden floors more simple. It is enough to make a belt of reinforcement, as is the case with concrete slabs, on which beams can be laid.

Wooden logs, before installation, must be coated with antifungal compounds, and the ends that will lie on the wall should be wrapped in roofing felt or other similar material.

You also need to make a wash down of the end part of the beam at an angle of 60 0 and lay the insulation

Between the end and the wall, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 cm, for possible thermal expansion.

Wooden logs should be laid into the wall to a depth of 15 cm.

In conclusion, we offer you a video that will be useful in the further construction of a wooden floor.

They are usually made from prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs. There are several types of reinforced concrete floor slabs: cellular concrete, multi-hollow heavy concrete and prefabricated monolithic ceilings. They are selected based on the span width and bearing capacity.

Hollow-core floor slabs PK and PNO have found the greatest application, with bearing capacity 800 kgf/m2.
Distinctive features such floors are high strength, fire resistance, manufacturability and complete factory readiness for installation.
Ceilings from multi-hollow reinforced concrete slabs are used with a step of load-bearing walls up to 9 meters. These floors are durable, fire-resistant, provide the necessary spatial rigidity and stability of a residential building.
The slabs are laid closely and connected to each other by embedding the seams between them with cement mortar. To create a rigid single horizontal floor, reinforced concrete slabs are connected to each other and to the outer walls using steel anchors fixed to mounting loops. The gaps between the plates when resting on internal walls filled with bricks of the same brand as in the main masonry.

When using a concrete floor, a prerequisite is the installation of an annular reinforced belt.

In modern literature, you can find several ways to construct an annular reinforced belt. (Arm belt):

So in one case when the wall is made of lightweight cellular concrete and the support of the slab does not reach 250 mm. (usual support - 120 mm), use a distribution belt, through which the floor slabs rest on the wall (Fig. 1). Such a belt is carried out for the entire length of the support of the ceiling on the wall and can be made of monolithic reinforced concrete or from three rows solid brick, reinforced masonry mesh. The width of the belt is 250 mm and the thickness is at least 120 mm. The floor slabs must rest on the distribution belt at least 120 mm. Together with floor slabs, it creates a rigid structure to increase resistance to wind loads, temperature and shrinkage deformations, as well as stability in case of emergency impacts..

Rice. one. Knot for supporting the floor slab on the wall
from cellular concrete gas silicate and foam concrete blocks.
1 - masonry; 2 - thermal insulation layer; 3 - leveling layer cement-sand mortar; 4 - floor; 5 - floor slab; 6 - monolithic reinforced concrete belt; 7 - additional masonry blocks; 8 - prefabricated reinforced concrete lintel of the window opening; 9 - fiberglass corner; 10 - slope; 11-elastic gasket; 12 - window block

In the second case: when the compressive load passes the established norms or the width of the slab bearing on aerated concrete blocks more than 120 mm, the distribution belt can be omitted. In this case, its role in giving the house a rigid structure is played by an armored belt in the form of an annular anchor along the outer perimeter of all laid floor slabs. Photo. №2 -5