Add options to your home. What to make an extension to a private wooden house? Extension to a brick house - differences from previous options

Today we have not an ordinary homemade product, but a very complex project: we will tell you how, with the help of direct hands, you can make an extension to the house yourself!

First of all, construction begins with a floor plan. Having calculated the required area, I marked the ground with a size of 3 m by 5 m and dug a trench under the strip foundation 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide. Then I laid a bunch of reinforcing bars and welded brackets to the bars. Further in the article there will be a description and photos for which I made these staples. I don’t even want to remember the process of manually mixing concrete with a shovel and pouring it)) I’ll just say one thing: it would be better if I called a mixer with ready-made concrete and poured it))). Having exposed the formwork from the boards, I brought the foundation 20 cm above ground level and leveled it. M-400 cement was mixed with sand screening in a ratio of 1 to 3. The strength result was impressive.
After the concrete hardened, I started pouring a concrete podium for installing a gas boiler measuring 1m by 1m, laying it in two places with a grid and setting up the formwork.

By pouring the staples protruding from the foundation with concrete, I got pillows for laying floor timber (lag) on ​​them. I needed the staples to avoid the pillows falling into the ground and, as a result, the floors being skewed. I arranged them in accordance with the recommendations for installing the floor. That is, at a certain distance from each other and strictly according to the level.

This completed the foundation work. Then he started building walls. First of all, he made a waterproofing of the wall material from the foundation by spreading the roofing material over the entire area. After all, concrete conducts moisture very well and if moisture insulation is not made, then mold may appear on the walls, the walls themselves may crack.
My next step was marking for the wall itself. The distances of the sides from the wall to the opposite wall did not differ, and the diagonals of the corners were the same. Having outlined the corners, I started laying foam blocks measuring 20x40x60 cm.

The plans included exterior wall decoration with siding, so I set up the block with a beacon rail and a corner from the siding in such a way that after finishing the extension siding would not “dance” from the siding of the house. To bind the blocks together, a mixture of cement and sand was used in a ratio of 1 to 3. Special mixtures and glue are also sold. Before laying on the mortar, the blocks were wetted with water. This greatly facilitates the laying process. With a rubber mallet, the blocks were seated in place.

Any masonry is erected from corners, so I was no exception and acted exactly with the recommendations, adjusted for doorways. To obtain blocks of shorter length, an old hacksaw was used) She did an excellent job with her work. But on sale there are special saws a.


To connect the walls with the main house, I made T-shaped brackets from reinforcement and, having drilled a wall, drove them in with the expectation that they would fall into the seam between the blocks.
He erected walls taking into account window and door openings using a construction level one and a half meters long and a plumb line. Those. blocks were stacked strictly vertically and horizontally. This is especially important for door and window openings. The thickness of the seam can adjust the height of the blocks relative to each other.


When the height of the walls reached the required level, U-shaped channels were made from a metal corner measuring 5 cm by 10 cm for laying blocks over door and window openings. The length of each was the sum of the length of the opening plus 40 or 60 cm for laying on the wall. To do this, put the corners on the block with the long side to each other and welded them together using a welding machine and fittings to obtain a gap between them. The gap is needed for screwing self-tapping screws into blocks during the installation of doors and windows.



Then I simply put the channels on the blocks and screwed them with self-tapping screws for complete fixation. It would be possible to turn them over differently and put the blocks on top, but I put a board into them from the bottom for attaching window frames and doors.


Having laid the foam blocks on top of the channels, I sawed a beam of 100x150 cm and laid it out on top. I screwed it to the foam blocks with 200 mm self-tapping screws and fastened the timber together with reinforced corners. It is necessary for ceiling beams and truss systems.



Having screwed a bar 50x75 mm to the wall of the house. I got the support for the ceiling beams. Important!!! For each roof, the thickness of the beams and rafters for the roof, as well as the distance between them, is calculated individually. Beams 50x75 mm. screwed to the beam corners.

Since the height of the extension was the same as the level of the house, after installing the beams, I had to remove part of the slate above the house to get a roof slope over the extension. After that, the rafters were assembled. For fixing the rafters, 250 mm nails were used.

I laid a crate of boards measuring 25 mm by 150 mm on the rafters, laid heat and vapor barrier on the rafters and proceeded to laying the metal tile.

The metal tile was bought almost from the factory and had the length I needed. It did not even have to be cut or adjusted to each other in length. After laying out the sheets on the roof and slipping them under the old slate, I aligned them with each other and the walls. After fastening, I cut off the excess parts of the crate.

He laid the logs on pillows, laid the floors from a board 40 mm thick.
The doors were installed next.

Most projects of individual houses provide only a residential part without additional outbuildings. Over time, residents, in the presence of free space near the house, often need to expand the structure with their own hands or with the involvement of qualified specialists. This can be due to a variety of reasons, such as an increase in the number of residents, the purchase of a car that will require a garage, and other circumstances. Annex - an auxiliary part of the building, which is adjacent to its main walls from one or more sides.

Varieties of attached buildings

The building can be:

1. Open, in the form of a canopy adjacent to the main wall, a summer veranda, porch or terrace.
2. closed:
   • living room with panoramic windows;
   • several additional living rooms;
   • kitchen with barbecue and dining area;
   • a separate recreation area, a children's play complex or a sports gym;
   • insulated garage;
   • workshop with pantries;
   • sanitary unit with a swimming pool or bath;
   • Russian bath or sauna, made mainly from wooden logs or timber as an extension to wooden houses;
   • greenhouses for year-round cultivation of vegetables, a greenhouse or a winter garden;
   • to accommodate boiler equipment for heating.
3. Superstructure in the form of an attic, provided that the bearing capacity of the existing foundation allows such an increase in load.

Depending on the purpose, a heated warm annex is arranged or without heating.

Required approvals

An extension project to a private house can be ordered from specialized design organizations or developed independently. To change the design of the building, it is necessary to obtain a building permit from the local administrative authorities, which is necessary, as well as for the construction of the main house. The project should be coordinated with bodies a dignity. and fire supervision, communal department. If the distances from the border with neighboring plots, regulated by building codes, are not observed, a written agreement of the neighbors is necessary, preferably notarized. The illegality of the construction of an extension is also recognized in the absence of a written consent of all the co-owners of the building to carry out the work.

It should be borne in mind that a work permit is issued only with the existing registration of rights to own a land plot and a house in Rosreestr, taking into account in the state cadastre. In the absence of the necessary approvals, the structure may be declared illegal and subject to demolition. It is not necessary to obtain a permit for the construction of simple sheds or a porch.

Structures and materials for the construction of the superstructure of buildings

The added part should harmoniously fit into the overall interior of the house. A two-story extension to a one-story building will look ridiculous, which, moreover, will significantly complicate construction. It is recommended to use for the construction of walls the same materials from which the main structure is built. For an extension to a wooden house, use wood, and brick brick. You can use foam or aerated concrete blocks, and for a harmonious combination with the design of the house, veneer under a tree or brick. A high or turning porch, as well as open verandas and terraces, must be framed with a railing.

It is desirable to build the foundation of a capital extension to an old house of the same type as the one existing under the main building. Of course, for the construction of a simple canopy, porch or open veranda, there is no need for a powerful foundation. In most cases, a columnar foundation with a small laying depth or screw piles is sufficient.

For capital buildings and garages, reliable and durable foundation structures are needed. Mainly prefabricated and monolithic tapes or a monolithic slab. When using poles and screw piles, it is mandatory to tie with a grillage, and to protect the space under the floor, pick up from the cladding with basement siding with insulation from basalt mineral wool or other similar heaters. On the top of the foundation, horizontal waterproofing is required from rolled waterproofing materials (stekloizol, hydroisol, rubemast or roofing material).

A good option is a frame extension to the house. The frame is constructed from wooden bars filled with insulation (for example, mineral wool boards) and lined with thick moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or other materials. The attached building can be made with window openings. The doorway is more convenient internal, which allows passage to the attached part without going outside. But it is also possible to enter the device directly from the street.

The roof is most often arranged single-pitched. It is important to ensure that snow does not accumulate at the junction, so the roof is made with a slope angle of ≥ 25 degrees. The canopy is most often covered with sheets of monolithic polycarbonate or ondulin.

The floor, depending on the purpose of the room, can be concrete (mainly in garages, workshops and storerooms), wood, lined with porcelain stoneware or tiles. Often arranged "warm floors".

The walls of the garage are recommended to be built from non-combustible products (brick, concrete or lightweight concrete blocks) with overlapping with reinforced concrete slabs or corrugated board. Be sure to provide a number of ventilation holes.

How to make an adjoining extension to the house

The connection of an existing building with an extension is one of the most crucial moments of construction. If construction technologies are not observed, cracks will inevitably form in the junctions with opening up to large cracks. This is caused by the difference in the existing loads and the complete absence or slowdown of the settlement of the foundation of the old house.

Attachment of the attached part is carried out in the following two options:

1. With an expansion joint without direct contact between foundations, walls and roofs. It is recommended in the presence of problem soils (peat or clay). A gap is provided between the constructs, which is later filled with elastic heat and waterproofing materials. It is permissible to lay a board treated with several layers of bituminous mastic. The resulting seam is closed with decorative inserts. Be sure to eliminate the possibility of the formation of "snow bags" on the roof at the interface.
2. Inclusion of all constructs in joint work. The new foundation is arranged with occurrence at the same depth as the existing one. It is applied at the bases from the soils which are not subject to heaving. The contacting surface of the old one is cleaned of soil, a layer of waterproofing, and a notch is made with a perforator. Reinforcing bars are tightly hammered into the drilled holes with sealing of the holes. The obtained mortgages are connected by welding with the reinforcing cage of the extension foundation, and concreting is carried out with a thorough compaction of the mixture using a deep vibrator. Brick walls are connected in the same way. The rods are placed every two rows in the seams of the new masonry. Wooden structures are tightened with steel bolts or studs with double-sided thread, complete with wide washers, nuts and locknuts. To pair the roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roofing and jointly fasten the rafters and beams of the house and the extension with the addition of new additional nodes and racks. In some cases, it may be necessary to build a common truss system or replace elements of greater length.

The second option is more complex, laborious and costly, although it cannot be guaranteed that the joint of the joints will not disperse over time.

Depending on the design, materials of the existing house and the purpose of the attached premises, the foundation type, material and thickness of the walls, the truss system and roofing materials for the new building are selected.

Before deciding how to build an extension, it is necessary to foresee all the possible nuances of future construction and to ensure that you protect yourself from possible administrative sanctions.

Advantages of an extension compared to a freestanding building

• Reducing the scope of work on the supply of engineering communications (electricity, water supply, heating, sewerage, ventilation).
• Less material consumption and cost of construction, since at least one existing wall is used.
• Rational use of the territory without cluttering with additional buildings.
• Additional insulation that prevents the penetration of cold air directly into the house with a decrease in heat loss.

Many owners of country houses and cottages from time to time carry out redevelopment of plots with their own hands. But sometimes you have to touch the house. If it needs to be expanded, then an extension is an ideal option to increase the usable area. At the same time, it can perform completely different functions and be located not only at the main entrance. Projects of extensions are developed taking into account the peculiarities of their operation.

Types of buildings

Before choosing an extension project with your own hands, you should decide on its functional purpose. Typically, the following types of buildings are attached to the house:

For each type of extension, it is necessary to calculate the amount of materials and draw up a plan.

Types of structures of residential extensions

There are several basic options for do-it-yourself extensions to the house:

The first option is considered not only the easiest from a technical point of view, but also the most budgetary. He assumes that the roof of the main building remains in place, only slightly lengthening by the size of the extension to the house. The main building is completed on one side or two. Then a passage is punched between them so that the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building increases by the size of the new building.

An attic-type room will be more expensive, as it is supposed to carry out an add-on.

The third option for an extension to the house with your own hands involves your own roof. The rest of the structure resembles a side structure. A separate roof increases the consumption of material, so the extension will cost more and will be built a little longer.

The extension of the second floor is carried out only if the foundation of the house allows it. If initially the building was not planned to be multi-storey, then there may be problems with its completion. The foundation may simply not withstand the additional load. In some cases, it can be strengthened.

Designing a new premises

According to the law, any functional room is considered an extension to the house with your own hands. A balcony, a loggia, a winter garden or an additional bedroom - all this will be considered an extension. The essential elements of its design are:

• foundation;
• walls.

Unlike the main building, there may not be floors here. Do-it-yourself constructive solutions for the roof of an extension are as follows:

The foundation of the building is recommended to be erected separately, since the structures are operated under various loads.
At the design stage, it is very important to consider the compatibility of the new building with the old one. An extension with your own hands should not create obstacles to communications that pass through the site. If you plan to make multi-level buildings, then you need to consider that this will delay the snow masses. Therefore, they should be further strengthened to avoid subsidence of the foundation.

Foundation design

With an increase in the usable area of ​​an existing building in the horizontal direction, it is unprofitable to build a slab or strip buried foundation. The most economical base designs are:

If preference is given to a pile or column foundation, then it is necessary to perform additional protection of the lower part of the structure from freezing. For this purpose, you can use basement siding with an inner layer of insulation in the form of basalt wool or expanded polystyrene.

Wall design

When drafting an extension, you should decide in advance on the material for the walls. For frame or panel construction, a sandwich is used:

• OSB sheets with a layer of expanded polystyrene or stone wool;
• internal membrane for vapor barrier;
• outer film for waterproofing.

The laying of lightweight blocks - aerated concrete or foam blocks - will cost a little more. If preference is given to the latter, then it should be taken into account that even walls made of the highest quality foam concrete are often covered with a network of cracks. Therefore, the facade will need to be plastered over the reinforcing mesh with a special composition.

Roof design

When designing an extension to a house with your own hands, you need to calculate the reliability of the elements of the truss system, their configuration and choose a step for their placement. If the height of the walls is the same, then the supports can be based on the existing load-bearing structures. The rafters of the lower extension to the two-story building should rest on the columns located near the walls of the main building.

Most often, the slope of the roof of the house closest to the extension is dismantled. The elements of the truss system are replaced by new ones that have a greater length.

Alternatively, you can disassemble the roofing cake, but do not dismantle the rafters. For a new building, a shed roof is being erected. You can strengthen the truss system with racks.

— IF SPACE IS LOW —

The construction of the house has long been completed, and the need to increase the living space has already arisen. This problem is faced by many owners of country houses. An extension to a wooden house will help solve this problem without much difficulty.

Our team of builders is engaged not only in the construction of houses, but also warm extensions to the house, as well as verandas or terraces.

Construction of an extension to the house

Building an extension to a house is no less troublesome than building the house itself, especially if it is an extension to an old country house or a village log house. Sometimes this entails quite large changes in the design and layout of the house itself. It can be an extension of a veranda, terrace or a warm living space for any purpose: a bedroom or living room, kitchen, bathroom or bathroom. It can be technical premises - a boiler room or a garage.

Photos of extensions to the house that our team built

Terrace extension.

Adding a terrace to the house does not create big problems and costs. The terrace is an open area - a wooden flooring on a specially prepared base, with or without a railing. Stand-alone or attached to the main building and serves for outdoor recreation. It can be under a roof, the main functions of which are protection from rain and direct sunlight.

Veranda extension.

The extension of the veranda to the house is a little more complicated and expensive, since it implies its full or partial glazing, but it also remains cold. The device of the veranda provides additional benefits - protection from wind and rain from all sides. Can serve as a summer kitchen, living room, playroom. Usually not heated.

Construction of a warm extension to the house.

The construction of an extension to the house with insulation, for a full-fledged living, is a more difficult and costly undertaking. Most often, we have to deal with the construction of an extension to wooden houses. In the process of attaching to a house from a bar or log, when docking to a house, some difficulties sometimes arise that must be taken into account. For the extension itself, the most optimal solution is the choice in favor of a frame wooden wall structure! Possibility of year-round use, as part of the main house, heated.

The correct extension to a wooden house is a frame extension.

A frame wooden extension, compared to an extension made of timber or logs, does not allow vertical settlement of the walls and therefore it can be immediately rigidly attached to the main structure. Frame walls, floor and ceiling are insulated with mineral wool. This design will be the warmest, lightest and most reliable compared to other options. And also the cheapest and most practical. Possibility to make an extension immediately turnkey. Versatility - the ability to attach to any home: wood, brick or blocks. Appointment - any: bedrooms, kitchen, living room, bathroom, boiler room, garage.

The foundation for the extension is another "thin" place. For such an extension to the house, the foundation is required to be more reliable and a pile screw foundation is best suited for this. In some cases, this may be a shallow tape monolithic foundation.

The cost of building an extension without material, only work!

Estimated - the approximate cost of a frame extension (600x300x250) with a turnkey finish.

• Terrace open from 100 thousand rubles.
• Glazed cold veranda from 150 thousand rubles.
• Residential extension with insulation (100-150-200 mm.) from 200 thousand rubles.

Building a frame extension to the house is possible at any time of the year!

Our construction team is engaged not only in the construction of wooden extensions to houses, but can carry out a complete repair and reconstruction of the entire house.

Who doesn't dream of a spacious home? Even the owners of large houses often want to have even more possessions, to say nothing of the inhabitants of small dwellings, who really do not have enough space. Building an extension to an already operated house perfectly solves this problem. The fastest and most budgetary option is wooden frame-based extensions. They are valued for the speed of erection, as well as for convenience and comfort.

They are especially suitable for houses built from various types of wood or. Such structures are successfully combined with housing of any type. Thanks to simple and original technology, you can expand your home. Such actions are usually taken to equip another room, utility room, for expansion or a large comfortable bathroom. Or maybe it will be a wonderful roomy place where it is so cozy to gather with the whole family?

Simple jumpers and racks are made from ordinary boards. They are also used to outline future and extensions. The thickness of the racks and the layer must be equal. The width of the step between the individual posts depends on the width of the insulation.

For example, if we make an extension to a wooden house in the north of the country, it is recommended not to be thinner than 15 cm. This means that the estimated size of the lumber should be 0.15 m by 0.15 or 0.10 m. The step is approximately 0.6 m, so as an insulation plate has a thickness of 0.6 m.

Appointment of extensions

Living room

An extension to the house from a bar of a living room resembles the actual construction of a typical residential building, only reduced in size. This is due to the fact that in the course of the work there will also be reliable insulation and high-quality of all walls and surfaces of the room. This applies to floors and walls. The foundation must also be solid in order to prevent the appearance in the new room, and dampness.

Particular attention should be paid to proper waterproofing and quality. The choice of foundation should also be approached with all responsibility.

Step-by-step instruction

Strip foundation

Frame walls

Let's consider the production technology of frame-frame wall type. This will require:

• floor beams 0.10x0.15 m;
• wooden bars 0.15x0.15 m;
• anchor bolts, self-tapping screws;
• adhesive sealant for wood products.

There are different technologies for equipping roofs. Those who want to make a frame extension often prefer the option of a shed roof. A similar design is made of rafters, while it is important to choose the right angle slope.

The slope of the corner can be 25-300: having noted it, a horizontal line is drawn on the surface of the main wall.

A bar is fixed along this line, which will become the support of the upper part of the rafter. And the end of the wall, or beams from the already made frame floor, will become the lower support of the rafter. It should protrude about 30 cm beyond the lower support - this will not allow precipitation to fall on the walls of the building. For the installation of rafters, galvanized steel corners are used.

A more complex option for attaching a frame extension by hand is possible: on the video you can find an option in which the roof slope of the main house is directed to the erected extension. In this case, the extension beam will simply have nothing to fix on. You will have to remove part of the roof from the lower roof row, and after that use the bare beams in your work.

If it is chosen to cover the roof of a new structure, sheets are completely laid on the rafters, or a frequent crate. Also needed. If the selected roof is large sheets, then the truss system itself will fit under them. Waterproofing is mounted on it, then the roofing sheets themselves are overlapped (and fixed with fasteners).

Then they begin to insulate the walls and floor inside the extension itself. Very good for isolation. It is placed inside the frame structure, between the bars. On top of it, with brackets, a special vapor barrier film is mounted on the bars.

In conclusion

When erecting a frame extension with our step-by-step instructions, it clearly shows the sequence of actions. At the final stage, at the very end of the work, the walls are finished with slabs, plywood or. If you follow all the technology, use the proper materials, then a do-it-yourself frame extension will faithfully serve the owner for many years.