How to level the walls with a start. How to align the walls in the apartment? Surface leveling methods

Or putty.

How well this part of the work is carried out will directly depend on the appearance of the finished surface and its performance.

If pre-treatment is neglected, then an uneven base may begin to deform and crack over time, which will violate the aesthetics of the top, finish coating.

Any type of cosmetic repair, or painting, tiling, involves an indispensable preparatory procedure. Hired professional finishers can do it, but you can do it yourself.

First you need to inspect the entire room, determine the size and nature of defects and irregularities. Without this, it will be difficult to plan the progress of the upcoming work.

What is the best way to align the walls, how to do it easily and quickly?

To accurately assess vertical flaws, you can use the water or.

So the degree of curvature of existing defects will be visible more clearly.

When the assessment activities are completed, the actual leveling of the wall surfaces begins.

How to level the wall yourself. Training

Depending on the type and size of flaws, the number of defects and irregularities, various methods for leveling walls are distinguished.

Dry. It involves the installation of auxiliary structures of various types. For example, it can be drywall. The method is more laborious, because it will require the manufacture of a frame, on which sheets of material will then be attached.
Raw. This method involves the use of special building compounds: putty and plaster, including. This method is well suited in the presence of irregularities ranging in size from three to five centimeters. All holes are carefully sealed with mortar, the resulting irregularities are carefully smoothed out.

Necessary materials and tools

For each type of finishing construction work, materials are needed that cannot be dispensed with. To align the walls you will have to stock up:

They have some disadvantages: drying time, not very good adhesion, slight cracking. The first type of mixtures can be considered more versatile.

Gypsum

Gypsum-based compounds are especially popular for work.

Leveling the surface with gypsum allows you to apply a fairly wide layer, which dries quickly, has excellent plasticity, high heat and noise insulation properties.

There are special gypsum compositions - rotgypsum and rotbands: special additives in them significantly increase the adhesive properties.

Heat-saving

Straw, sawdust and other natural materials are used as a filler, thanks to which it is possible to maintain an optimal microclimate in the room.

wall leveling process

Leveling walls with plaster

What is the structure of work on the preparation of the wall?
Before starting work on leveling the walls, it is important to do special preparatory work: dismantle the old coating, evaluate the work surface intended for.

It should not delaminate or crumble. Often, already in the process of working on the old layer, after the freshly applied one has dried, defects become noticeable that were not visible before. In order for the result of the work carried out to please you, observe the following conditions:

the wall should be properly;
the building mix must be chosen correctly;
Beacons are a must.

For brickwork it is best to use one of the types of cement mixtures, the cost of which is very negligible. The material can be applied in a sufficiently thick layer, which is especially important when processing masonry walls. But it is important to remember that if the applied layer is thicker than two centimeters, a plaster mesh is certainly used to reinforce the composition.

For smooth concrete surfaces gypsum-based leveling compounds are suitable. They contain microparticles of quartz, which give the surface some roughness. Before that, she wall must be primed. For reinforcement, a polymer mesh of five by five millimeters is used.

For foam concrete surfaces gypsum-based mixtures are also used with a mandatory preliminary primer.

Installation of beacons

What is called beacons in construction?

These are a kind of guides, with the help of which the surface leveling is controlled when using liquid products. In this capacity, a special perforated profile is usually used for plastering, whose width is determined by the thickness of the applied composition.

It is very convenient to use purchased factory products that do not have to be removed after the events, and, accordingly, to mask the irregularities resulting from this.

Such beacons are located vertically, on strips of a quick-hardening mixture intended for plastering. The distance between individual beacons is calculated according to the size of the rule so that it does not slip off them, relying on a pair of neighboring ones.

Plastering technique

To do this, you need a tool with a handle, which is called the "falcon": outwardly, it resembles a familiar trowel, but has a much larger base. With such a “falcon” and a trowel, an excess amount of solution is thrown into the gap between individual beacons.

From the "falcon" the mixture is collected with a trowel, then dumped onto the wall. The use of such a device improves labor productivity, since there is no need to constantly approach the working container for the mixture. And this reduces the time required for the event.

Further, the solution is neatly distributed by the rule from the bottom up. To apply a more voluminous and massive layer of plaster, make a rough mark without leveling. When this preliminary layer dries up, a finishing mark is carried out, which is to be leveled.

Leveling the wall with putty

Before starting work, the surface is primed. The process of puttying with your own hands is not difficult.

But the method is not suitable in all cases: it is possible to level the wall in this way only if the height differences are not too significant.

What will be needed for work?

You will need:

narrow and wide spatulas,
low cuvette.

The mixture should have a sufficiently thick consistency so that the resulting stirring does not change its shape.

Over time, the composition begins to thicken, so periodically a little primer or water is added to it.

Getting rid of bumps with it can be considered one of the most effective, and at the same time low-budget options.

It can be done with or without a frame.

Aligning the walls with the frame

If you prefer the frame method, then you must first make the frame itself - sheets of material will be mounted on it.

It can be made from:

metal profile (rack-mount and guide)
or wooden beam.

The latter is less durable, since the wood is afraid of exposure to moisture, microorganisms, and can be deformed. And yes, it's a bit more difficult to install. It is for this reason that the metal profile often acts as the basis.

To build the frame, we screw a pair of parallel profiles to the ceiling (in relation to each other).

After 40-60 cm, taking into account the width of the sheet, we place the guides. At this stage, it is most rational to conduct insulation with foam plastic or mineral wool, if there are intentions to do this.

When the frame is ready, drywall sheets begin to be attached to it. To do this, you will need special screws made of oxidized metal.

The distance between the individual fasteners should be between 40 and 60 centimeters. Hats are a little "recessed" into the material.

Aligning walls without a frame

The frameless method has significant differences. Sheets of material are attached directly to the surface to be finished with glue. The obvious disadvantage of this method is that walls with large-scale defects cannot be fixed with it.

There are other ways to level the walls. To do this, use plastic panels or sheets of durable plywood. The technology of their installation is similar to the actions with drywall, only wooden blocks are used instead.

This is a simple and quite economical way, which is popular. Among other things, it allows you to mask all communications. They are actively used in the decoration of bathrooms, country houses and garages.

You can quickly and efficiently align the walls with the help of drywall sheets. They are easy to cut, strong enough and even a little construction skills are enough to successfully cope with the job.

With the help of drywall, wall defects of almost any complexity can be corrected: to close minor irregularities and significant surface differences. And besides this, such a building material as drywall makes it possible to arrange niches and portals in the walls, decorate doorways in the form of arches, and even build new partitions.

Depending on the degree of curvature of the walls, the leveling method is also used, using a frame base or fixing the sheets directly to the wall. Sometimes there are cases when the walls in the same room have different degrees of curvature and then it is more expedient to combine both methods.

Fastening drywall sheets to the frame

Before leveling the walls with drywall, it is necessary to carefully remove the previous coating, whether it be crumbling plaster or numerous layers of old wallpaper. And don't be fooled by the fact that the surface will eventually close anyway. By cleaning the wall, you thus not only get rid of the accumulated rubbish, but also win back precious centimeters of living space. Further, it is recommended to treat the surface with an antiseptic that will destroy possible fungal deposits, including the most dangerous - black mold.

Now you can start attaching the base. As a frame, a galvanized steel profile is most often used. First of all, with the help of dowels or self-tapping screws, profiles are fixed along the perimeter of the wall - along the ceiling, floor and adjacent walls. Further, vertical jumpers are installed on this frame, which will become the basis for drywall sheets. During installation work, it is important to frequently check the correct installation of each profile separately using the building level. The profiles are connected to each other with special screws ending in a small drill, which allows them to easily enter the metal sheet and securely connect the structural details. When the frame is ready, you can start sewing it with drywall sheets. This stage of work is carried out much faster than the previous one, and here the main thing is only to perform the correct joining of the sheets so that the edges are securely fixed and form a single plane.

In addition, it is necessary to strictly observe the verticality of the lines in the corners of the room, where even the slightest deviations will be noticeable.

When all the sheets are already screwed on, their joints must be puttied with the obligatory use of a reinforcing mesh. Further, after the putty has dried, it is recommended to apply a thin layer of plaster on the wall, which will become a solid base for painting, wallpapering or laying tiles.

Gluing drywall sheets to walls

If the curvature of the walls is insignificant, you can save on the frame and level the walls with drywall, fixing them directly to the wall. After high-quality preparatory work, they begin to glue drywall sheets to the wall using a special composition, the application layer of which depends on the differences in the relief of the walls. In the most problematic places, drywall is additionally fixed with long dowels or self-tapping screws.

At the same time, do not forget about the building level - after all, you are trying to achieve a perfectly flat and strictly vertical surface. Further puttying, plastering and priming of finished walls is not canceled in this case either.

Plaster

A cheaper option for repair work is to level the walls with plaster. In this case, the cost of acquiring materials is reduced, but a little more skill and time will be required.

In addition, a responsible preliminary preparation will become a guarantee of tight adhesion of the applied layer of plaster. And this work consists in the complete removal of the old coating up to the very foundation of the walls, that is, to the brickwork or concrete. And even if the old plaster seems to you still strong enough and durable, it is better not to risk it, because its possible detachment in the future will nullify all your efforts and expenses.

Plastering walls is a rather laborious and technologically complex process, especially if you have little experience in this matter. You need to be prepared for the fact that not everything will go smoothly right away (both literally and figuratively), but some practice and applied diligence contribute to achieving the highest possible result, because “not gods burn pots”.

The best result of plastering is the alignment of the walls with beacons, which not only help to control the uniformity of the application of the plaster, but also facilitates its distribution. As lighthouses, perforated T-shaped rolled metal products are used. They are fixed vertically on the wall after a certain distance, usually not exceeding one and a half to two meters. Only experienced plasterers can afford to save on the number of pendulums, but for beginners, pendulums will become real “helpers”. And we should not forget about the building level, controlling the verticality of the fixed beacons.

Next, you need to apply a primer to the walls and let it dry, thereby improving the adhesion of materials when applying the solution. Depending on the condition of the wall and the degree of its curvature, the thickness of the applied layer is determined. And if it is more than 2 centimeters, be sure to use a reinforcing mesh.

gypsum plaster mixture;
a container for preparing a solution;
construction mixer for mixing plaster;
craftsmen and spatulas.

The technology of applying the solution to the wall is simple. A certain amount of the mixture typed on the trowel is thrown with sharp movements onto the wall between two adjacent pendulums. After filling the space, using a flat board called a falcon, moving along the pendulums from the bottom up, the solution is evenly distributed. This stage of work requires some effort. The solution from the plank is collected with a trowel and again thrown onto the wall, filling in the recesses and recesses.

Thus, all the walls of the room are plastered to the most even surface.

The next step is grouting and sanding the walls. Typically, such work to eliminate defects begins as soon as the solution dries, and this may take from several hours to a day, depending on the thickness of the applied layer. For rubbing, use a special metal mesh or ordinary sandpaper. The process is of course laborious, but without it it is almost impossible to get smooth smooth walls. Further, the walls are primed and are already completely ready for applying the finishing material. In the case when there are such flaws in the work as cracks, small recesses or surface drops, they can be easily eliminated with puttying work.

putty

This method is perhaps the easiest and most inexpensive in deciding how to level the walls with your own hands. Minimum material consumption and great effort will prepare the walls of your room for painting or wallpapering.

There are two types of putty - starting (with a larger texture) and finishing (plastic and homogeneous). The first is used to seal holes and cracks more than two centimeters deep, and the second is used to create a perfectly flat surface.

Puttying work, like all previous ones, begins with preparatory cleaning of the surface and the mandatory application of a primer.

Puttying irregularities and individual recesses in the wall is carried out with a small spatula, with smooth, pressing movements. After the solution dries, the applied “patches” are sanded with sandpaper, trying to level the surface as much as possible. If the wall is being prepared for painting, then the next step will be processing with a starting putty. It is more convenient to apply it using a wide building rule, since the solution will be more evenly distributed and the work will go much faster than using a spatula.

Another option for using finishing putty is the creation of decorative, textured plaster. But it should be remembered that such finishing work is carried out only on perfectly aligned walls.

Panels, as the fastest do-it-yourself wall alignment

The building material market is replete with assortments of wall panels, with which you can not only correct the curvature of the walls, but also use them as finishing materials. One has only to get acquainted with the proposed panel options and the question of how to properly align the walls becomes resolved.

So, a variety of types allows you to purchase panels for any style of interior: solid wood, MDF, PVC, plastic, chipboard, laminated, veneered, embossed and smooth. As for colors, here too the choice is rich from the natural natural shades of natural wood and “marble”, “brick” or “stone” masonry, as well as with fabric ornaments or embossed “under the skin”.

The technology for mounting panels is similar to the technology for attaching drywall. Whether it is necessary to install a metal frame or fix the sheets directly to the wall depends on the degree of drops and curvature. In many interiors, whether part of the wall is trimmed with panels, for example, in corridors, halls or living rooms. But in the kitchen, only the wall behind the work surfaces can be closed with panels.

Why align the walls?

The walls are aligned for many reasons, of course, initially it is an aesthetic component. The appearance of your apartment depends entirely on the geometry of your walls and the smoother they are, the more expensive and elegant your apartment looks. Of particular value are the aligned walls with putty, and not sheathed with drywall, because. the latter visually reduces the space of the apartment, and also creates inconvenience associated with its operational properties (it is difficult to hang pictures, mirrors, etc. on drywall).

In addition, the owners of apartments with broken wall geometry (this is especially common in the so-called "Khrushchev") suffer from wavy skirting boards (both ceiling and floor), which follow the contour of the wall and break the visual geometry in your apartment. If you are faced with a similar situation, then this is a great solution for you.

Materials and tools required for alignment

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Step-by-step instructions for leveling a wall in an apartment without beacons

So, materials and tools are ready, it's time to start leveling. Initially, we prepare the walls, tear off the old wallpaper and clean the surface. In order to free the wall surface from old wallpaper, it is necessary to moisten the wallpaper with water using a sprayer (which is sprayed with flowers), so it will be easier to remove the old wallpaper.
Next, we unscrew all the screws and bolts, there were no screws on my walls, except for the stretch ceiling, which I removed, as well as a special mount on which I. We unscrew all the fasteners and screws from the walls.
Attachment removed. The next step is sockets and light. For my TV, which will be located on the wall, I decided to make an outlet. So, with the help of a grinder, we cut the wall and, it is advisable to lay the wiring in the cable channels.
The hole for the socket must be drilled using a special round nozzle on the drill.
The next step is this. Priming of the walls is necessary so that the adhesion of the putty to the wall is strong enough.
Has the wall priming been completed? Now let's start sewing the seams. In order to seal the walls as well as possible, it is necessary to add PVA glue to the solution, and then mix the solution with a drill with a special nozzle. You can see the process of mixing the solution in the video below.
Then comes the next stage - this is the application of a rough layer. The rough layer is applied using plaster, which is sometimes worth mixing with PVA building glue, for stronger adhesion to the wall surface.
The application is not carried out spontaneously, ideally, you need to install special building beacons, adjusted using the building level, and then, based on this, use the building rule to apply plaster to the wall, but this is a very costly method in terms of plaster consumption. It is easier to use the building level and mark the gaps with a pencil in the differences, and then apply plaster to these places. The process of leveling a wall without beacons will be shown in the video below.

Video - how to level a wall without beacons part 1

Video - how to level a wall without beacons part 2

When the rough finish is finished, the next part comes - this is the finishing with the finishing coat (Vetonit putty). It is worth noting that Vetonit putty is applied quite simply, unlike plaster, the application process of which is very heterogeneous and causes difficulties for novice builders.

Wall worn with a rough layer of plaster - photo

Often, when overhauling or entering a new house, residents are faced with a nuisance in the form of uneven walls. Modern finishing materials for the most part imply flat surfaces for processing. It will be about how to level a brick wall with your own efforts.

There can be many reasons why the walls are uneven, for example, poor-quality cement mortar or a violation of brickwork technology, but in this case this is no longer particularly important. The main question is how to eliminate the unevenness of the walls for subsequent finishing?

What may be needed at work?

Before you start leveling, you need to stock up on the necessary set of tools and building materials:

A plumb line will be needed in order to determine the verticality of the walls.
A trowel is needed in order to apply and distribute the mixture along the wall with its help.
Lighthouses are needed to determine the irregularities, then it is on them that the wall needs to be leveled.
A reinforcing mesh is needed so that the solution does not fall off under its own weight.
Self-tapping screws will be needed to attach the reinforcing mesh to the wall.
Building materials with which alignment will be performed.
Perforator.
Vertical guides are needed so that the plaster and primer lay flat.
A metal frame may be needed if you decide to level with drywall.

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Alignment Options

There are several options for leveling brick walls, in each case you need to rely on specific data. According to the alignment technology, methods are divided into 2 types:

dry - when a drywall construction is used;
raw - when building mixtures are used.

To determine the method, it is necessary to measure the irregularities with the help of a building level (you can also use a laser level). If the fluctuations in the difference in the wall are up to 5 mm, then this is insignificant and you can only get by with putty. If the irregularities are within 3-5 cm, then building mixtures will come to the rescue, but if more than 5 cm, then it is more expedient to use drywall.

A brick wall can be leveled with plaster, putty, gypsum mixtures and plasterboard structures. Each type has its own characteristics and its own areas of application.

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Leveling with plaster

To plaster the walls, you need to prepare a platform for work:

if there are old finishing materials, remove them, leaving a bare wall;
inspect and evaluate the scope of work.

A properly prepared surface, combined with the right choice of mix and precisely positioned beacons, is the key to success. To level a brick wall, it is better to choose a cement mixture. The cost of this mixture is relatively low, plaster can be applied in a rather thick layer, but it should be borne in mind that with a layer thicker than 2 cm, it is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh.

After you have assessed the surface, you need to install beacons. They are needed in order to control the process of leveling the walls with a raw method. A perforated profile acts as beacons. If you have to deal with this process for the first time, then it is more expedient to buy ready-made beacons: you don’t have to remove them after work and close up the recesses left after them.

The installation of beacons is carried out on a mixture or solution of rapid hardening, which will be used for further work.

The distance between the beacons depends on the size of the rule: it should not slip when supported by 2 beacons. After installing the beacons, you can proceed to the plastering process.

A ready-made solution is taken, and with the help of a trowel, a large amount of it is thrown onto the wall. The next step, using the rule in the direction from the bottom up, distribute the solution over the surface of the wall. Thus, the entire surface must be treated. As soon as the layer dries, you can apply the next, but already much smaller in thickness, after specifying the construction level of the deviation.

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Leveling putty: features

The method of leveling the walls with putty is only suitable in cases where the deviation is small. To do this, stock up on 2 spatulas, narrow and wide. The mixture must be kneaded in such a way that when creating a cone (during mixing with a stick), its shape is preserved. It must be remembered that the putty thickens quite quickly, so you should not dilute it very much at once, it is better as it is worked out, in extreme cases you need to dilute the mixture with water.

A mixture is applied to the surface of the wall with a narrow spatula, then leveling is carried out with a wide spatula. The spatula must be held at an angle to the wall, but it is worth remembering that the smaller the angle, the thicker the layer. After applying the first layer and drying it, you need to smooth out the roughness with sandpaper. If there is a need to apply another layer, it is recommended to prime the surface and then proceed to the second layer, after which the wall must also be sanded after drying.

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If the wall is in a very poor condition, then drywall will come to the rescue. This option will be more cost-effective and efficient than the others. Can be aligned with or without a frame.

With the frame method, you need to create it so that there is something to attach drywall sheets to in the future. You can build a frame made of metal or wood, the second option is less durable and more difficult to install.

The frame is created in the following way: guides are attached to the ceiling parallel to each other, every about 40-60 cm, fastenings are carried out using self-tapping screws. If necessary, you can insulate the wall at this stage, which will give increased heat and sound insulation, for example, if it is a partition between rooms.

The frameless method is different from the frame method: in this case, drywall sheets are glued directly to the surface, which will be further finished. However, this method has a big minus - if there are large wall defects, they cannot be eliminated.

There are also methods for leveling brick walls, which are used much less frequently: using plywood or plastic panels. They are mounted similarly to drywall, but only on wooden blocks. These options are budgetary and are usually used for finishing premises such as a garage or country houses. Also in this way you can hide communications from the eyes.

If there is a need to level the brick walls outside the building, then it is better to stop at plastering the wall with a special mortar for outdoor work. Although uneven walls outside are not as common as inside.

Smooth planes are an indispensable condition for high-quality repairs, in apartments it is very often necessary to level the walls, since ideal geometry is rare even for new buildings, and in old houses this problem is even more urgent. The process is not easy, but with patience and adhering to the necessary requirements, all work can be done on its own.

Small irregularities and minor defects are easy to hide under wallpaper, decorative plaster. In more complex cases, the alignment of the walls is carried out by one of the main methods - by applying a plaster mixture or plasterboard lining. Each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

The use of building mixtures

If the walls of the apartment are relatively even and have a slight degree of curvature, many owners often prefer the use of leveling solutions.

This alignment method has been known for a long time, and it has a number of positive aspects:

in the process of plastering, the internal volume of the room practically does not change;
perfect for any premises (for various purposes and operating conditions);
tiles, wallpaper, painting, and other finishing coatings hold well on the prepared base;
it is not necessary to process the entire surface, partial alignment of problem areas is allowed;
all work, using an affordable construction tool, can be done by yourself.

To reduce the thickness of the applied layer, at the preparatory stage, all cracks and recesses are pre-filled with quick-drying mixtures, and the protrusions are knocked down with a perforator.

The disadvantages include the following points:

the plaster mixture is suitable for leveling minor differences, an increase in the thickness of the layer leads to an increase in material consumption, financial and time costs;
special skills are needed, in their absence it is very difficult to immediately get the desired result;
so that the applied solution dries well before finishing, depending on the thickness of the layer, it is left for 2-3 or more days.

Basic preparatory work

If the wall is concrete, then the simplest, most affordable and common method is to use a cement-sand mortar. The technology is simple, therefore, in the absence of experience, it is possible to acquire and improve the necessary skills in the process of work.

To carry out the plastering correctly, follow the step-by-step instructions:

The surface is cleaned of the previous finish, for which old wallpaper and areas of poorly fixed plaster are removed, and the protrusions are knocked down.
Turn off the power and disassemble the sockets. If necessary, they are replaced, and the wires are laid in strobes.
Remove all fasteners (screws, nails, hooks).
Existing deep cracks are expanded and filled with cement mortar.
Having prepared the base, it is cleaned of dirt and dust.

The next step is priming. For better adhesion of the applied mixture to the surface, it is recommended to use a deep penetration composition with antiseptic properties. Onatstrengthens the base, improves adhesionand prevent the appearance of mold, the development of fungus.

On open flat areas, the primer is applied with a roller in a continuous layer, but in the corners it is more convenient to use a brush. After the first layer, after a pause necessary for it to dry, re-processing is carried out.

Before plastering the walls, beacons must be set up. For these purposes, metal profiles with a T-section or ordinary wooden slats are well suited. They are pressed into the "cakes" of cement, gypsum mortar previously thrown on the base and, until it has seized, they are quickly leveled.

An arbitrary distance is chosen between the beacons, but for the convenience of working at the corners of the room, at least 30 cm recede.

The main thing is that the rule along the edges rests on adjacent profiles and moves freely in the vertical direction.

Starting plastering, you can take the dry mix in the package and, diluted with water, prepare in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Or, using the most common materials - cement and sand, mix it yourself. Further, taking a trowel or spatula, the finished composition is applied to a pre-moistened wall so that the layer protrudes 2–3 mm above the level of the beacons.

Then, on them, trying to smooth the surface, they draw a rule from the bottom up. In places where small indentations remain, add a solution and re-align. If necessary, another layer is applied, leveling it in a circular motion, and the wall is left to dry. At the final stage, putty is used as a finish.

Working in separate rooms, you have to pay attention to the specifics of their purpose and features of operation. So, the bathroom is a relatively small room, so there are no particular difficulties, but given the high humidity and intensity of use, the question is natural - what material to choose?

Best of all, according to its characteristics, a cement-sand or gypsum leveling mixture is suitable; after hardening, their structure acquires the necessary properties that increase resistance to moisture. You can also install waterproof drywall, but the room is small and the frame will take up some space. At the end of all the work, the walls can be painted, but the best option is to glue ceramic tiles, as it will create additional protection and ennoble the appearance.

Internal and external corners

There are several ways to align the corners, but the easiest and most effective way is with the help of perforated profiles. When eliminating the irregularities of the inner corner with your own hands, it is necessary to perform a number of sequential works:

over the entire height in the most even places, through an equal interval of 150–250 mm, apply a quick-hardening mixture;
pressing an angular metal profile into it (inner shelves outward), check its position relative to the level;
leave until completely hardened;
further, starting from the flat sides of the corner, begin the main finishing work.

The outer protrusion is performed in a similar way, but the perforated corner is applied in reverse. After making the final alignment of the side surfaces and waiting for the complete hardening, drying of the material, they begin to grind it. To do this, take a grater or sandpaper, fixing it in a special holder, and, exercising light pressure, pass over the entire surface in a circular motion.

The number of layers applied and the choice of material, starting or finishing, depends on how curved the walls are.

Upon completion of work, in order to remove adhering plaster from the tool, it is placed for a while in a container of water or a small spatula is used. If painting is planned as a final finish or wallpaper will be glued, then a primer is applied to the walls for better adhesion of materials.

Visual alignment method

Very often it is not required to completely plaster all surfaces, sometimes it is enough to identify and eliminate problem areas in the form of protrusions and depressions “by eye”. This method is very efficient and allows you to achieve significant savings in time and materials.

The main attention is paid to such significant places as corners, doorways, ceiling and wall joints. The remaining planes are aligned using the rule, pressing it and simultaneously moving it along the surface, the presence of depressions is determined. After filling them with plaster, the excess is removed with a tool, re-wiring them to the walls. The application of the solution is carried out in several layers, each of which must be dried and covered with a primer on top.

Actions continue until the plane is flat and the rule is completely attached in the absence of recesses. After plastering, finishing putty is used as a final finish. After waiting for it to dry, the surface is polished with a special grater or sandpaper.

The visual method is complex and requires some skill, so only experienced builders use it. But all the work can be done in a short period of time and, if the partition has a slight slope, an acceptable result can be obtained. As a result, all the main decorative elements (skirting boards, baguettes) will be perfectly even.

The use of plasterboard structures

Due to the complexity of plaster leveling, more and more often, the GKL installation option is chosen as the main way to eliminate irregularities. This is also true if the house is wooden and the use of leveling solutions is impossible.

The main advantages include the following points:

can quickly fix very crooked walls;
ease of working with a surface of any material (concrete, gas blocks, brick, wood);
the frame method allows you to improve the soundproofing properties and carry out additional wall insulation.

Disadvantages of using drywall:

the partition reduces the internal volume of the room;
even moisture-resistant material loses its initial characteristics upon prolonged contact with water;
increased requirements for fine finishing, which includes the need to reinforce the seams with a mesh, followed by puttying and grouting the surface;
additional assistance is required, since it is difficult to carry out installation on your own, especially in the absence of proper experience.

Sheets are mounted in two ways: frame and frameless. Each has its own technology, scope. The first option involves the installation of a crate, it is carried out with a significant curvature of the walls, when installing additional insulation, soundproofing the room, and also when it is necessary to hide the wires.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a drywall construction:

Wallpaper, the “moving” parts of the old coating, are removed from the surface.
Having drawn a line on the ceiling, mark the outer edge of the location of the sheets. Transfer the border to the floor using a plumb line.
On the walls, mark the position of the vertical racks (three units per sheet) and the attachment points of the suspensions necessary for adjustment.
Having fixed the damper tape on the guides (using dowels every 30-40 cm), they are attached to the ceiling, floor.
Having drilled holes in the wall, mount the suspensions.
The vertical racks are fixed with self-tapping screws, checking their position with a level and pre-installing them in the guides. Then they are fixed on suspensions, bending the protruding parts to the sides.
If necessary, in places of horizontal joints, additional jumpers are mounted, which add rigidity to the frame.
Holes are drilled for switches, sockets, and chamfers of 45˚ are made at the joints of the sheets.
Prepared drywall fragments (of the required size) are fastened with hardware to the crate, slightly sinking the heads into the material.
At the final stage, the surfaces are puttied and the wallpaper and tiles are glued.

GKL fastening with glue

With this method, if the planes are relatively flat and do not need preparation, the sheets are mounted directly on the base.

The order of work is as follows:

The old coating is removed, the protrusions are knocked down and, having expanded the existing cracks, they are sealed with mortar.
The walls are treated with a deep penetration primer.
Prepare, cut drywall.
A special glue is applied to each sheet in the form of strips along the perimeter plus several dotted elements inside it.
The workpiece is pressed against the wall. Check its position relative to the plane and, if everything is in order, hold for a minute, waiting for the adhesive mixture to set.

It is very important to set the first skin element correctly, since all the others will be joined to it. To facilitate the task and prevent sheets from slipping, in the lower part at the level of the plinth, a rake is screwed y. It, holding the fragments in the right position until the glue is completely dry, will ensure reliable adhesion of the surfaces. Then it is removed and the installation site is covered with a plinth.

Before gluing the wallpaper, the finishing treatment of the plasterboard begins:

connecting seams are covered with reinforcing mesh and putty;
after waiting for their hardening, grouting is carried out with the help of fine sandpaper;
the surface is primed twice, taking a break in work until each layer is completely dry;
before gluing the wallpaper, the plane is puttied again, but in the case of tiling, decorative stone, this is not necessary.

By correctly determining the amount of work to be done, the consumption of material and, having assessed the quality of the walls, it is possible to significantly simplify the repair. Indeed, with a slight curvature, there is no need to erect a frame and install GKL sheets. Then, to obtain the desired result, in order to eliminate small irregularities, it is enough to clean and level all surfaces with plaster.