Learn to make 3D floors. Coating with protective varnish

Stunning volumetric paintings on the floor, which have gained immense popularity around the world, appeared thanks to the development of 3D self-leveling floor technology. It is possible to decorate the floors in an apartment in an unusual style with the help of specialists, but not everyone can afford such expenses, since the wages of qualified craftsmen should be added to the prices of materials and tools. The question of how to make 3D floors with your own hands worries many adherents of self-repairing their home, and professionals started teaching those who wish with the help of detailed lessons, in which they willingly share their secrets of skill.

It is quite difficult to achieve the desired effect: it is necessary to buy building mixtures according to the list, Decoration Materials and tools, choose a volumetric drawing or make it, process it in a graphics editor and print a photo, carefully study each stage of the work, see how specialists make 3D floors with their own hands (video).

Step-by-step instructions for making self-leveling 3D floors with your own hands from a to z with drawings and a video lesson will help beginners complete all the steps without unnecessary problems.

Tools and materials for 3D self-leveling floor

When self-installing a self-leveling floor, you will need:

wide spatula;
rule;
needle roller;
regular roller;
wide brush;
grinder or grinder with a disc with a diameter of 18 cm;
sand;
cement;
water;
construction mixer;
puncher;
respirator;
gloves;
protective glasses;
paint shoes (shoes with spikes);
construction laser level;
water level;
primer;
wallpaper knife;
drill with attachment;
containers for mixing the composition;
two-component polymer composition;
photo or drawing in 3D format on vinyl based;
colorless varnish;
industrial vacuum cleaner.

What is a self-leveling floor and how to make it

Self-leveling floors are seamless floor coverings made of polymer compounds - cement-acrylic, polyurethane, methymethacrylate, epoxy. The pouring technology consists of several stages.

Stage one - preparation of the foundation

How to make a self-leveling floor? First you need to prepare the base for it:

remove all furniture, remove baseboards, doors along with boxes, dismantle the old floor covering to the screed, remove dust and debris;
lay in rooms with high humidity;
make a concrete screed on top of the waterproofing layer or cover the surface with a mixture of cement and sand;
completely dry base to process grinder or grinder;
remove jags and irregularities with a puncher;
fill cracks with a mixture of cement and sand;
check the horizontalness of the screed surface with a rule or a laser level;
after drying, thoroughly clean the room - it is advisable to use construction vacuum cleaner... Particular attention should be paid to greasy spots to be removed with solvent and acetone.

You can start further work on the design of the self-leveling floor with your own hands only after complete drying concrete screed, which can last up to 30 days.

Stage two - priming

For high-quality adhesion of the polymer self-leveling coating to the base, it is necessary to cover the surface of the screed in two layers:

pour the primer and evenly distribute over the entire surface with a spatula, roller or brush, leaving no gaps in the joints of the floor with the walls;
Apply the second layer of primer when the first one is dry and smooth it thoroughly;
leave for at least 24 hours to dry the last coat of primer.

Stage three - filling the base layer

At this stage of the installation of the self-leveling floor, you need to perform the following steps:

Prepare a polymer composition for the base layer by mixing the components with a solvent in a container in a 2: 1 ratio. It is necessary to use a construction mixer, since it is almost impossible to manually mix the composition to a homogeneous consistency due to the many small lumps and the rapid solidification of the polymer.

Important! Do not immediately mix the composition in one large portion, as it will harden and become unusable. Better to cook in small batches one at a time.

Pour the ready-made self-leveling floor mixture onto the base, quickly and very carefully with a needle roller, spread it in a thin even layer over the surface. Make sure there are no bubbles.

Advice. In a large room, the self-leveling floor should be poured in strips, starting from the corner opposite the entrance. Smooth the borders with a wide spatula. Make sure that no overlaps are formed during pouring. You should try to spend no more than 10 minutes processing each strip.

Stage four - 3D image editing

When the base layer of the self-leveling floor has hardened, you can start laying the decorative layer:

dilute the polymer composition with a solvent and apply a thin layer on a dry surface;
place a previously prepared drawing or photo on a vinyl base on the treated surface, align the edges that should protrude beyond the perimeter of the base and lie on the walls;
press the image element to the self-leveling floor with a dry roller and, starting from the center of the room, roll it over the surface so that no air bubbles remain between the base and decorative layers, which will subsequently lead to cracking of the decorative layer;
when the decorative layer sticks to the base, carefully cut off the excess with a sharp wallpaper knife;
carefully clean the treated surface from dust and grout residues.

Stage four - finishing the self-leveling floor

The last stage in the design of the 3D self-leveling floor is the application of a finishing layer, which will help emphasize the effect of the volumetric image and keep the coating from scratches, dents, deformation for a long time. To fully comply with the technology, you will need:

using a construction mixer, mix the transparent polymer composition with a solvent in the same proportion as when the components of the base layer of the self-leveling floor were combined;
pour out the composition and carefully distribute it over the surface with a roller so that the layer thickness does not exceed 0.3 mm;
the polymerization process will take about 30 minutes, after which it is necessary to cover the self-leveling floor with colorless varnish twice.

Not worth it right after completion finishing actively use the room, drag in furniture there and put it on the just made self-leveling floor. It is necessary to wait until all layers are evenly dry, the polymerization processes will end, which depends on the temperature and humidity of the air, the season of the year, and the weather. If you managed to make 3d self-leveling floors in the apartment with your own hands in all rooms, you will have to ask to live for one or two weeks with relatives, friends or go to the country. It is better to do the self-leveling floor in stages - first in one room, then in another, and so on.

Important! At every stage of working with a self-leveling coating, a respirator, gloves and goggles must not be neglected, since dispersed dust and vapors of polymer compounds settle on the skin of the mucous membrane of the nose and mouth, get into the eyes and throat, causing skin irritation, feeling of sand in the eyes, a runny nose, cough.

Cost of work

The price of a self-leveling floor with a 3D image in Moscow ranges from 5,000 to 7,000 rubles. per 1 m2, in St. Petersburg from 4,500 to 6,500 rubles. for 1 m2. This cost, as a rule, includes material and payment for work, and depends on the footage of the room in which the self-leveling floor is made: the larger it is, the lower the price.

To finally understand how to make 3D self-leveling floors correctly with your own hands, the video presented on the site will help.

Floor coverings with a 3d effect are increasingly used in the design of interiors of houses and apartments. 3D floors are valued not only for their decorative effect, but also for their high reliability and durability, which other types of floors do not possess. Of course, the cost of such a coating is much higher than a laminate or tile, and the pouring technology is quite complicated. And yet, everyone who has at least a little construction experience can make 3d floors with their own hands, if desired.

Before starting work, you should study well the process of pouring the floor, familiarize yourself with the numerous nuances, choose an image. First of all, you need to know what such a coating is. Self-leveling decorative floor consists of three layers: base, image layer and finishing. Very often, the finishing layer is additionally coated with a special colorless varnish, then no mechanical effects will leave marks on the coating.

For the manufacture of the base and finish layers, a two-component polymer mixture is used, consisting of a hardener and transparent base... When mixing the polymer, it is very important to observe the proportions, otherwise the mixture will turn out to be either too liquid or too viscous. In both cases, the quality of the filling will be reduced, which will negatively affect the strength and durability of the floor.

The decorative layer can consist of banner fabric, vinyl self-adhesive film, resistant acrylic paint and various small elements - pebbles, shells, coins, pieces of wood. When using small decor, you will additionally need polymer clay or gypsum for grouting, since voids are necessarily formed between the elements. The finished drawing on film or fabric from the company will cost the most, because it is the printing of the image that increases the cost of the self-leveling floor. The use of natural materials will significantly reduce the cost of the process, but it will take much more time to install. If you have both time and patience, this option is optimal. You can draw a picture yourself or hire an artist, as well as use ready-made stencils and stickers.

How to make and print a picture

If you decide to make 3D floor with photo printing, you can try to select and process the picture yourself. It will take some time, but it will save you money on repairs. To work, you will definitely need a graphics program (photoshop) and a camera.

Step 1. Selection of the picture

A variety of images are suitable for 3D floor: flowers in the grass, sea waves or sand on the beach, abstractions, leaves, stones, ornaments. It is important to choose a picture that best suits the interior, pleasing to the eye, calm colors. You should not choose aggressive or creepy images, pictures with whirlpools, abysses, too contrasting pictures. The photo you like should have a high resolution - at least 300 dpi.

Step 2. Take a snapshot of the room

It is necessary to photograph the floor of the room where the filling will be carried out. To do this, it is recommended to stand so that the entire area falls into the lens; best shot from a doorway. The photo should also be clear enough, without light spots or darkening.

Step 3. Processing photos in a computer

After loading a photo of the room into a graphics program, overlay the selected picture on top. Carefully align the borders of the images, fix and remove all unnecessary using the program so that only the floor with the picture remains. As a result, the image will be expanded at the bottom and narrowed at the top. Align the borders of the picture in a rectangle, edit the clarity of the picture and copy the picture to a USB flash drive.

Step 4. Printing the picture on the fabric

To transfer the image to the fabric of the desired size, you need to contact any company that deals with outdoor printing. The cost of their services is much lower than a ready-made canvas for a decorative floor. First order black and white image required sizes on plain paper. Spread the paper on the floor and check how realistic the picture is. If everything is correct, you can order color photo printing on banner fabric.

DIY 3d flooring technology

After the drawing is printed, you can begin to prepare for pouring the floor. Please note that the whole process will take a lot of time, and you will not be able to use the premises for at least three weeks.

First, prepare everything you need for work:

Step 1. Surface preparation

The old floor is dismantled to the screed, debris and dust are removed. Carefully inspect the surface and seal up all detected defects with cement mortar. After the mortar has dried, it is recommended to grind the base to eliminate all roughness and small irregularities. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the surface, because even a slight slope will complicate the pouring of the polymer and increase its consumption. Finally, the screed must be thoroughly vacuumed.

Step 2. Applying the primer

Before applying the base coat, the base should be coated with two coats of primer. It is poured onto the floor and stretched over the entire surface with an ordinary roller or a wide brush (if the room small size). The primer should be distributed in a continuous even layer, filling the joints between the floor and walls well. The second layer is applied not earlier than the first dries, after which the base is left for a day.

Step 3. Filling the bottom layer

The components for the base layer are poured into a container and mixed with a construction mixer or powerful drill with a nozzle. It will not work to prepare a high-quality solution manually: firstly, many small lumps are formed that are difficult to break, and secondly, mixing will take too much time, and the polymer will begin to solidify. The finished mixture has a homogeneous structure and color, smoothly flows from the nozzle.

The polymer solution is poured onto the base in the corner farthest from the doors and rolled over the surface with a needle roller. If the area is too large, the floor should be poured in strips, carefully smoothing the borders of the stripes with a wide trowel. Since the working composition hardens quickly, the pouring of adjacent areas should be done within 10 minutes. When rolling out the mixture, it is necessary to ensure that the layer is as uniform as possible and that no air bubbles remain inside.

Step 4. Laying the decorative layer

To glue the canvas, take the same polymer composition as for the lower layer, dilute it in half with an organic solvent and apply a thin layer on the floor. Next, take the canvas with the image, straighten it on the working surface, align the edges. With a dry roller, press the fabric to the base and carefully roll it out, starting from the center of the room. It is very important to squeeze out all the air from under the canvas, otherwise bulges will form on the coating, which can crack over time. The edges of the material should protrude slightly beyond the perimeter of the floor and go into the walls; they are carefully trimmed after the decorative layer is fixed.

Laying the decorative layer must be done carefully in order to exclude the appearance of bubbles under the banner.

If, instead of photo printing, small decorative elements, you first need to think about their location on the surface. The easiest way is to lay the material in a chaotic manner, placing the elements close to each other. They should all have the same thickness and not rise too much above the base. A section of the floor is primed with a diluted polymer composition, after which the decor begins to lay out. This process requires a lot of perseverance, accuracy and patience, otherwise beautiful coverage will not work. When the whole area is full, the voids are erased polymer clay and left to dry.

Step 5. Applying the finishing coat

The clear resin finish is mixed in the same way as the base compound. The surface is pre-cleaned from the remnants of grout and dust, the mixture is poured out, rolled out with a roller. For the three-dimensional effect to be more pronounced, the transparent layer should be 3-4 mm thick. Half an hour after application, polymerization occurs, and the surface can be coated with a protective varnish. The floor will be ready for use when it is completely dry upper layer, before this, any stress on the coating should be excluded.

The nautical theme is very popular and is suitable for any space.

Video - DIY 3d floors

This article is addressed to those home craftsmen who want to try to fill polymer floors with a pattern, or, as they are often called in common parlance, DIY 3D floors. This technology is a relative newcomer to construction and repair practice, but it is rapidly gaining popularity and is in growing demand.

The desire of a certain part of apartment owners to give the premises of their home absolutely unique the sight forces them to look for completely unexpected solutions. The assortment of parquet, laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles offered in floor coverings stores cannot satisfy them, and then polymer floors with an optical three-dimensional effect come to the rescue.

Such a coating is usually performed by a team of craftsmen with the appropriate qualifications, since the stage-by-stage pouring process is rather complicated and replete with nuances. Can you do it yourself?

It is worth warning immediately that in view of specific features such a filling, the need for utmost accuracy and scrupulous, to the smallest detail, adherence to all technological recommendations, no one will undertake to guarantee success at the first experience. Any mistake can become “fatal”, as quickly solidifying compounds are used, and it is extremely difficult to eliminate the consequences of the error. Therefore, before making the final decision and running to the store for materials, carefully read this publication in order to realistically assess your strengths and abilities. Perhaps someone will understand that it is more expedient to turn to professionals.

5 best epoxy coatings for self-leveling floors

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 97 / 100
#5			⭐ 96 / 100

What is 3D-floors and their main advantages

3D-floor is a covering with a durable transparent polymer top layer several millimeters thick, under which graphic images of varying degrees of complexity or material objects are placed. Taken together, this design has a spatial optical effect that completely transforms the interior of the room.

Bold experiments on this designer decoration floor coverings began to be carried out in the West several decades ago, mainly in large public institutions - supermarkets, concert halls, exhibition grounds, etc. Over time, these technologies "migrated" to residential buildings - similar floors began to decorate kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, and then living rooms.

What are the advantages of such floors:

First of all, of course, it is worth noting the decorative qualities. There is always the opportunity to perform perfectly exclusive design premises.
The performance of such a coating is no less important. If done correctly, it has a pronounced resistance to abrasion and impact, which predetermines the durability of the floors.
A high-quality coating is chemically inert and is not afraid of exposure to harsh chemicals from all those that can be used in everyday life.
Such polymer coating absolutely harmless from the point of view of ecology, and can not cause any harm to human health or domestic animals.
The polymer completely "seals" the concrete, at the same time preventing dust formation and waterproofing the base.
Another important quality is that most of the compounds used to create 3 D floors in residential premises belong to the G1 group - they absolutely non-flammable.
Caring for such a coating is not difficult - periodic light wet cleaning as the floor does not absorb dirt and dust.

The disadvantages include the complexity of the technology for installing such a coating, a rather high price for it. And, of course, the material is not natural, and definitely loses to the same wood in terms of "natural" heat.

An important question is the choice of graphics for 3D- sex

How is it created decorative effect, or, in other words, what can be used as graphic objects that create volumetric image.

One of the options - on a concrete base or an underlying layer, are performed using cutting tools or, conversely, by applying mortars, relief inscriptions, textures or primitive drawings. After pouring the transparent coat, a three-dimensional effect will appear. This approach is appropriate if the room is designed from the standpoint of minimalism, for example, in the loft style.
An interesting effect is given by small objects laid out on the floor and filled with a transparent layer. So, you can use beautiful sea pebbles, shells, coins and even dry tree leaves.

Sometimes, in the presence of artistic talents, to the underlying layer acrylic paints drawing is applied. This can be, for example, stencil printing.

More complex options made by technique volumetric painting are available, of course, exclusively to professional artists. Such works cost a lot big money, therefore, they use them extremely rarely and only very wealthy homeowners.

Otherwise, a drawing is a drawing, and someone will like the simplest patterns or images made independently or even together with a child. The memory of such children's creativity will remain for many years.

Most often, they resort to placing under a transparent layer of the selected graphic image, executed according to a special technology in a typographic way. It is impossible to make it yourself without special expensive equipment, so you will have to turn to the services of printing houses or companies specializing in outdoor advertising.

As a rule, in such companies they will always be glad to offer a considerable assortment ready-made solutions... However, it is quite possible to choose your own version - the number of images on the Internet is incalculable.

Drawing can be done on vinyl (self-adhesive or not) or on banner fabric. Some caution should be exercised here - for example, the manufacturer of self-leveling floors "Elakor", the company "TeoKhim" (the technology of pouring this particular floor will be discussed below) immediately warns that the use of banner fabric is not allowed. Make sure that the artwork is compatible with the floor components in advance.

Video: Imaging Materials for 3D Floors

You should never rush to make a decision on the choice of a particular pattern. It is better to look through dozens, maybe hundreds of options, in order to accurately determine one of them:

Firstly, it is very expensive to make such a panel, prices are calculated at least from 1000 rubles per square meter(and with high print quality, with a resolution of over 1400 p, it can be much higher).
Secondly, such coverage is usually done for tens of years. It is worth carefully weighing whether the drawing will introduce some kind of discomfort after the first feeling of novelty has passed. The desire to surprise the guests is understandable, but friends will admire and leave, and you will live with it for many years. In addition, some kind of unusual, "vintage" the plot of the drawing, which today it seems original and "cool", in a year or two it will begin to be perceived as ridiculous or downright stupid, causing irritation and unnecessary worries.
Third, perhaps, there should be a consensus in the opinions of all family members. The image that delights one person can be negatively perceived by others. It happens that some patterns or "flashy" colors even lead to certain health disorders.
Fourthly, do not forget that the drawing must correspond to the general design style rooms. It is necessary to assess whether it will be easy to pick up to it suitable furniture, wall and ceiling decoration, other elements of the interior of the room.

It would seem beautiful. But won't such a bright color in the room "become boring", and how to choose the setting for it?

As a field for bold experiments, only small, isolated rooms are permissible, for example, a bathroom, an entrance hall, a bathroom, and to some extent a kitchen. Bright colors and large, detailed graphic objects are allowed here.

But in living rooms it is better to limit yourself to soft natural colors, unobtrusive patterns. This is especially true for bedrooms and offices. In the children's room, if the child so desires, heroes of popular cartoons or fairy-tale characters will be appropriate, but everything should also be in moderation, without aggressive or frightening images.

When ordering a printed drawing of a certain size, a small margin must be taken into account - this will make it easier to fit the canvas to the size of the room, trimming its edges as needed.

So, we have decided on the type of decoration and the specific pattern. You can go to building materials to be used to fill the 3D floor.

What you need to fill 3D-floor do it yourself

Basic materials for work

Currently, there are many varieties of polymer flooring systems on sale that can be used, among other things, to create 3D compositions. They can be epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate basis. From the point of view of the convenience of work, the strength of the resulting coating, complete environmental friendliness, including during technological operations, preference should be given to epoxy compounds. Unlike, for example, polyurethane, they are odorless at all in the original or diluted state.

Basically, the technology for pouring 3D floors with different systems is broadly similar. So, schematically, the device of such a coating can be depicted as follows:

1 - concrete base of the floor. The self-leveling floor, in principle, can be arranged according to wooden base, but only if the condition of its parts (log and flooring) does not cause any concern, and there is a guarantee that it will be stable for many years.

2 - a primer layer, which provides hardening, waterproofing of the base and increases adhesion to the compounds poured onto it.

3 - Sealing and base coat. Provides the required perfect surface flatness, complete coverage concrete base.

5 - The front transparent layer, which, along with the functions of the topcoat, will also serve as a kind of "lens" for the decorative composition.

Not shown in the diagram, but one more layer is always recommended - this is a protective varnish coating, which will prevent abrasive wear of the surface, will not allow the formation of scratches or scuffs that can spoil the visual effect of the 3D floor.

Self-leveling floor systems from various manufacturers, of course, have their own pouring technologies. It will not be possible to tell about all of them, and in order not to finish with general phrases, the technology of arranging a 3D floor using the Elakor-ED system will be considered step by step.

The products of the Russian company TeoChem can be trusted

This — development of the Russian company "TeoKhim". In terms of quality and durability of use, it, in any case, is in no way inferior to the products of leading European manufacturers, and in terms of cost it looks much more attractive.

The table below shows the calculations of the required amount of materials and its cost. For greater convenience, the data are calculated for 10 square meters of area with a 3 mm thick top layer. If necessary, it is easy to carry out your own calculations based on the real area of the room in which the floor will be poured.

Technological operation	Material used	price for 1 kg	consumption per square meter	required quantity	cost for 10 sq.m.	cost for 1 sq. m
Padding concrete surface	Primer "Elakor-ED 2K / 100	360	0.4	4	1440	144
Filling the underlayment	Epoxy self-leveling floor "Elakor ED"	325	1.1	11	3575	357.5
	Refined quartz sand	8	3	30	240	24
Finishing filling layer	Epoxy self-leveling floor "Elakor ED" transparent	515	1.8	18	9270	927
Protective polyurethane coating	Varnish "Elakor-PU Lux" transparent glossy	505	0.2	2	1010	101
TOTAL:					15535	1553.5

It should be noted that the calculation was carried out as much as possible. permissible thickness finishing layer - 3 mm. Here it is quite possible to save money by reducing it even to 2 mm. But to exceed the thickness - absolutely unnecessary class. First, it will result in a serious waste of material. Secondly, too thick transparent layer leads to refraction of light, distortion or deterioration of the quality of the picture. And thirdly, in terms of performance, it is not not set, there is absolutely no benefit - the strength of the floors will not increase from this, it is, if the technology is followed, is already more than sufficient at 2 ÷ 3 mm.

The prices in the table are retail (up to 40 kg) as of the end of February 2015. The cost of materials is from the manufacturer, that is, in retail chains it may be slightly higher.

Please note that the cost of the Elakor-ED self-leveling floor for the underlying layer and the topcoat varies significantly. With the similarity of the name and, in principle, equal performance, they have significant differences.

For the underlying layer, a two-component epoxy composition is used (main component A + hardener "B"), which is diluted in a 5: 1 ratio. This also predetermines its commercial packaging: a metal bucket for 20 kg + a canister for 4 kg (in total - 24 kg), or a polypropylene bucket for 25 kg and a canister with a hardener for 5 kg (total 30 kg).

This composition is opaque and has a certain tint - from pure white to other shades according to the catalog. There is an opportunity to make a colored "substrate" for a drawing, which is especially important if the artistic composition is not planned for the entire floor area.

The front layer is made of a completely transparent composition "Elakor-ED", and it is much more expensive. Nobody bothers to apply it for the base layer as well - the quality will not suffer from this, but it will not look cost-effective. However, for some artistic compositions this will be the only possible option.

The proportions of the components "A" and "B" are different here - 2: 1. It goes on sale in a container at the rate of 10: 6. Standard factory packaging: 8 kg metal bucket + 4.8 kg canister (total - 12.8 kg), or 16 kg bucket with 9.6 kg hardener canister (25.6 kg).

To finish with the materials, we should also mention the epoxy putty "Elakor - ED, Putty 2K". It may be needed if the concrete base of the floor requires repair work - sealing cracks, sinks, potholes and tp... it is also a two-component formulation that is prepared in a 5: 1 ratio.

The retail cost of this material is about 275 rub/ kg, but it is difficult to determine the quantity in advance, since its consumption will directly depend on the quality of the concrete base.

In general, this repair material shows excellent qualities, is easy to apply, has high adhesion to primed surface and absolutely does not shrink during polymerization.

It is recommended to use refined quartz sand as a filler for the putty. So, for primary filling, it is added at the rate of volume from 1: 1 to 1: 1.5, and for finishing - from 1: 0.5 to 1: 0.8.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Required tools and accessories

To get started, you will need to prepare certain tools and accessories:

To mix two-composite compounds, you need a construction mixer or drill with a power of at least 800 watts. A prerequisite is adjusting the speed of the drill and the presence of a reverse function (rotation in the opposite direction). If a drill is used, then a mixing attachment is needed for it. The best option- two-threaded screw part made of metal strips. Nozzles with blades made of thin wire or round bar are not allowed.

To distribute and level the composition over the floor surface, it is most convenient to use a squeegee, on which you can set the required gap.

Raklya - handy tool for distribution of the composition over the floor surface

According to the technology, the poured floor must be rolled with a needle roller.

The obligatory tool for pouring the floor is the needle roller

For priming the surface or applying thin layers of material, synthetic winterizer rollers with a pile height of about 12 ÷ 15 mm are required. For hard-to-reach places you will need soft hair brushes. We take into account that when working with epoxies, this tool becomes, as a rule, disposable.
To carry out repair work, puttying, as well as to distribute the poured composition over the surface, it is necessary to prepare spatulas with a width of 120 to 600 mm.
To move on a freshly poured floor surface, you must wear paint shoes on your shoes.

You will need a clean container for mixing the compositions and for soaking the tools after the end of work.
A powerful vacuum cleaner is needed to thoroughly clean the surface during the preparatory stage.
A stiff plastic brush is required to carry out the quartz filling of the seal coat.
Work clothes and protective equipment for the skin and respiratory organs should be provided - gloves or mittens, a respirator or mask. It will be useful to hide your hair under a cap or bandana.
In the place where it will be carried out by kneading the compositions, it is necessary to cover the floor and walls with plastic wrap.

Stages of work

Work on the arrangement of a self-leveling 3D floor takes place in several successive stages.

Floor surface preparation

One of the key conditions is that the surface of the poured floor must be almost perfectly horizontal. Maximum differences of no more than 1 mm per 1 running meter are allowed. Of course, polymer compositions have the property of self-leveling, but if you imagine how much expensive material will be spent on such leveling, it becomes clear that it is cheaper to level the floor with a concrete screed.

All further work will be carried out only after its full maturation.

There are certain requirements for the strength and moisture content of the concrete pavement.

So, the grade of concrete must be at least M200.
The surface should have gained the required strength - this is easy to check with a nail - it should leave only a slight scratch, but not cause crumbling.
Permissible floor moisture - no more than 4%. It is clear that there is no special device for measuring this indicator in household use. You can proceed as follows: cover the surface with a sheet plastic film 1 × 1 m in size, ensure that the edges are tightly pressed and leave for a day. If after this time there are drops of condensation on the film or even just sweat, the work cannot be carried out.

In the work room, it is necessary to create and maintain certain conditions:

The temperature of the concrete base is not lower than +5 and not higher than +25 degrees.
The temperature difference between the air and the concrete base at a height of half a meter from the floor is within - 4 degrees.
The relative humidity in the room is no more than 80%.
All used compounds must be kept in the temperature range from + 15 to +20 degrees.
There must be an inflow in the room fresh air, but drafts are strictly prohibited.

Work begins with a thorough cleaning of the floor from debris and dust. It is necessary to identify the weak points of the concrete - so, where there are signs of crumbling, delamination, looseness. Particular attention to stains that have impregnated the coating - bitumen, oil, paint residues. They should be scrubbed or hollowed out to a “healthy” concrete.

Small cracks, and it is best to cut a few (up to 5 mm wide) for further filling.

The guarantee of quality is thorough cleaning of the base from dust and debris

Final cleaning must be carried out using a powerful vacuum cleaner. Particular attention is paid to the removal of small particles and dust from cavities and crevices.

Carrying out priming and surface repair

During the pouring of the floor, you will have to repeatedly knead a variety of epoxy compounds. For this operation, it is necessary to provide a separate place outside the room, where there will be work in progress... It is absolutely essential to exclude the possibility of components falling on the floor surface. It is best if this issue is dealt with by a separate employee who will prepare the compositions as needed.

When working with any epoxy compounds, it should always be remembered that they, in the prepared liquid form, have a very limited period of use. It must be indicated in the instructions, and, moreover, it largely depends on the temperature in the room. One more nuance - the prepared component composition loses its properties much faster, being in the mixing container - it is necessary to ensure its distribution over the surface as quickly as possible. In any case, only such an amount of the mixture is prepared, which will be guaranteed to be produced within the next 30, as a last resort- 40 minutes.

According to the technology requirements, priming of the surface should be carried out no later than 2 hours after the last dedusting.
The soil is diluted in a ratio of 2 parts "A" to 1 "B" c following sequence... Add the required amount of hardener "B" to the container with the base component "A" and mix for average speed rotation 500 rpm. Be sure to alternate forward and reverse rotation.

After a completely homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is left for 3 minutes for the spontaneous release of air bubbles.
Then the composition is poured in half in the required amount (see table) and evenly distributed with a padding roller over the entire concrete surface. Particular attention is paid to the obligatory priming of all irregularities and crevices. For such hard-to-reach places, as well as corners, it is better to use a brush.
Ideally, a uniform surface with a glossy sheen should be obtained. In practice, it happens that there are areas with particularly strong absorption - in these places, the consumption of the primer should be slightly increased.
For normal polymerization, the soil takes about a day.

After the first coat of primer has solidified, it's time to move on to repair work if necessary.

The epoxy putty is diluted in a 5: 1 ratio, and when the homogeneity of the mass is achieved, the required amount of quartz sand is added in portions, without stopping the rotation of the mixer.
The resulting composition is filled in all areas requiring repair or leveling.
If the defects are not so significant, it makes no sense to buy a separate package of epoxy putty. You can use the composition of the "Elakor-ED" self-leveling floor, diluting a small amount in the usual proportion and adding also 1 - 1.5 parts of quartz sand.
The repair compound also needs time for polymerization - about a day. Then you can fix minor imperfections by using abrasive materials such as sandpaper.

By hardening the putty and removing dust (when her availability), carry out secondary priming of the surface. The work is carried out in the same way, but with the obligatory light dusting of quartz sand on freshly smeared surface. As a result, after curing, a smooth, rough surface should be obtained.

After a day, you can proceed to the next stage.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Base layer fill

The very purpose of the sub-base is to completely cover the entire concrete surface while simultaneously leveling it to the ideal, and creating a monolithic rigid base for placing the 3D floor.

In the descriptions of the technologies for pouring the base layer, you can find recommendations to cover fiberglass under it - this will give the surface the required solidity and rigidity. In the case we are considering, the material manufacturer advises to do without such a measure, but to use the quartz filling method.

To do this, first, the epoxy primer is again diluted. It will no longer be absorbed into the surface, and it is evenly distributed in a small amount, so that no puddles are created.
After 15 - 20 minutes, the surface is backfilled with quartz sand. At the same time, they do not spare him and fall asleep in excess, at least one and a half to two kilograms per square meter. It is spread over the surface with a spatula.
In this case, the primer needs about 15-20 hours for polymerization.
Then, using a hard plastic brush, the remaining sand that has not been absorbed into the primer is removed, and the surface is cleaned of the remaining grains of sand with a vacuum cleaner.
Now you need to dilute the bulk composition, which was purchased specifically for the base layer.

The mixing technology has some differences.

- To begin with, thoroughly, for 3 - 5 minutes, mix only the main component "A", using direct and reverse rotation.

- Without interrupting stirring, pour in a thin stream required amount hardener.

- When performing mixing, special attention should be paid to places where it is difficult - in the corners at the bottom. At the same time, hard contact of the blades of the mixer attachment with the walls and bottom of the container should not be allowed.

- After achieving complete homogeneity, the finished composition is left for 3 minutes to release the air, and then immediately used. It is unacceptable to keep it in a bucket for more than 10 minutes.

Before starting the filling, it is necessary to put on paint shoes on the shoes - this will make it possible to move around the freshly applied composition. In this case, the leg should be placed on the floor and rise vertically, without shuffling movements. In this case, the pits from the thorns will quickly and without a trace tighten up under the action of the surface tension of the semi-liquid solution.
The finished epoxy is poured halfway through in accordance with the consumption rates and evenly distributed with a spatula. Particular care is needed in difficult areas, in places where walls, columns, niches, etc. adjoin the floor.

Following the distribution, but no later than 10-15 minutes, it is necessary to roll the entire surface with a needle roller. This procedure will additionally evenly distribute the composition over the surface and allow the remaining air bubbles to escape.

The filled base layer is left for a day. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no drafts guaranteed and that dust, debris, water, etc. will not enter the flooded area.

Laying the decoration layer

This is one of the most difficult and crucial stages, which requires prohibitive accuracy, special cleanliness in execution. Work should be carried out only in clean, soft shoes, and it will be even better if you put shoe covers on it so as not to leave accidental marks from the sole.

The printed film may have a self-adhesive layer with a protective paper backing. The main difficulty is to carefully lay out the film on a flat floor surface and expel air "pockets" from under it. It is better to do this work together in order to prevent wrinkles or, even worse, the film from sticking on the folds - it can be hopelessly ruined.
Difficulties can arise if the drawing is made of several fragments that need to be very carefully joined together so that the joint line remains invisible.
Printed typography may not have an adhesive layer. In this case, it is recommended to dilute a small amount of a transparent epoxy finishing compound and use it as a ley. To do this, it is applied in a very small amount to the surface, and then a film is glued to it.
A similar method is also used if small objects are used as an ornament - coins, shells, leaves, etc. A thin layer of epoxy will securely fix them in the right place on the surface.
If your own drawing is preferred, then it is applied with acrylic paints, which then need to be given time to dry completely.
After the decorative layer is installed, it must be primed with a transparent epoxy compound, which is intended for the final pouring. This measure is mandatory. The fact is that to work on pouring the finishing layer, you will have to put on paint shoes again, and their sharp thorns can damage the drawing or the laid out composition. Thus, it is necessary to eliminate such a threat with a primer coat.

Filling the finishing layer

This layer will "seal" the floor pattern and create a kind of "lens" that will enhance T 3D effect of the image. It is clear that increased requirements are imposed on its quality. The ingress of dust or water on an uncured surface is unacceptable. Moreover, even a drop of sweat falling from the forehead can cause local clouding of the surface, which will be noticeable visually.

The pouring technology is in many ways similar to the application of the base coat.

The transparent composition "Elakor-ED" is used, which is diluted in a 2: 1 ratio. The stirring technology has no peculiarities.
Initial spreading of epoxy can be done with a wide trowel, but it is better to use special tool- a squeegee, on which the required gap is set.
It should be remembered about the rates of material consumption, depending on the selected thickness of the finishing layer. At the same time, one cannot be “greedy” - the self-leveling property of the epoxy composition will be ensured if at least a kilogram is applied per square meter. And in the case when the temperature in the room is close to the critical one (about +5 degrees), the bulk composition is needed even more - about 1.8 kg. If we look at the table again, we will see that exactly this amount is needed for a three-millimeter layer.
Do not forget about the needle roller - the entire surface should be rolled with it after 15 — 20 minutes after pouring.
The polymerization of the finishing layer will take at least a day. However, in no case should you rush, and even in soft shoes, walking on this surface is allowed only after 4 - 5 days. And we can talk about full readiness for mechanical operational loads in a week.

Video: one example of filling a 3D floor

It is advisable to complete the work by applying a polyurethane varnish coating. It is absolutely transparent and will not spoil the optical effect.

The varnish "Elakor-PU Lux" is diluted in a ratio of 2: 1 for 1 ÷ 2 minutes at a sufficiently high speed of the drill (about 1000 rpm). It takes more time for air bubbles to escape - up to 10 minutes, but you can also use the varnish for a whole hour.
Working with formulations based on polyurethane can be accompanied by harsh unpleasant odor, which enhances the importance of respiratory protection and providing fresh air, but without creating a draft.
For application, use a roller with a velor "coat" and a short nap, up to 4 ÷ 5 mm. Approximate consumption for one layer is 80 ÷ 100 ml per square meter of surface. The varnish usually spreads very well on the surface, leaving no drips or streaks.
Drying time for the first layer is about 8-12 hours. Then you can move on to applying the second layer. It is very important that more than a day should not pass between the application of layers, otherwise their reliable contact with each other will not be ensured.
Moving people in soft shoes is permissible three days after the final varnishing. The full load of the finished 3D floor can be given in a week.

So, the whole cycle of work on creating a 3D floor with your own hands will take at least two weeks. - extremely responsible, requiring increased accuracy and constant concentration of attention. Following the advice of an ancient proverb, one should think "seven times" before making the only correct decision about the possibility and feasibility self-fulfillment a similar task.

At the end of the article - another video example of the professional execution of a 3D floor:

Video: 3 D- gender - the work of professionals

After curing, the varnish forms a lightfast coating that is UV resistant. The top coat made of two-component polyurethane varnish Lux does not turn yellow, is optically transparent, has high protective characteristics in terms of resistance to mechanical and chemical influences.

high resistance to the visible spectrum and ultraviolet radiation;
high adhesion to all building materials;
very high wear resistance: abrasion according to Taber only 5 mg ( standard parameters- CS-10, 1kg, 1000 cycles);
very high chemical resistance, including to acids (for example, to 50% nitric acid) 4
high decorative properties, ease of cleaning.

layer-by-layer drying 4-6 hours (until the loss of stickiness), but not more than 24 hours;
after application: after 48 hours - foot traffic; after 7 days - full mechanical load.

Epox epoxy varnish spreads well and evens out on the surface, forming a perfectly smooth coating. After polymerization, it turns into a durable optically transparent coating. It is used for self-leveling floors with decorative drawings and photographs, 3D pictures, decorative chips, logos, etc.

increased mechanical strength and chemical resistance;
lack of shrinkage cracks;
resistance to fungal infections;
high resistance to light radiation;
operating temperature - from -10 ° С to + 60 ° С.

limited resistance to ultraviolet radiation (yellowing);
use of a surface exposed to chemical attack can be started after 5 days.

Due to the minimized emissions, the check for the presence of harmful substances and TÜV control, this product is particularly well suited for all sensitive areas such as recreation rooms, hospitals, kindergartens, schools, etc. For matt sealing of hard and viscous interior polyurethane and epoxy coatings exposed to light loads in the residential and industrial sectors.

with minimized emissions;
tested for the content of harmful substances;
increases the scratch resistance of hard and tough polyurethane and epoxy coatings;
good resistance to UV and chemicals;
reduces the light reflection of glossy coatings.

exceeding the time leads to a change in the degree of gloss, as well as to a decrease in strength and adhesion to the substrate;
with uneven application of the material, differences in the degree of gloss and streaks are inevitable, noticeable in grazing light, especially for very dark color tones;
Excessive layer thicknesses (> 200 g / m2) should be avoided, otherwise reaction bubbles will appear in the coating film.

For finishing works on epoxy and polyurethane coatings, as well as on concrete mosaic floors. Low to medium loads. For indoor and outdoor use. Resistant to UV radiation.

low viscosity;
good spreadability;
the possibility of obtaining a matte decorative effect;
lightness and simplicity of floor maintenance.

a decrease in temperature and an increase in air humidity in the room slow down the curing process of the coating and contribute to the appearance of defects on the surface.

Epoxy wear-resistant coating "Transparent gloss" from the brand "Make a Floor" is a two-component composition epoxy resins with fillers. It is intended for use on mineral surfaces (concrete, concrete tiles, stone, artificial stone, etc.), both horizontal and vertical.

has resistance to aggressive environments;
has a high degree of adhesion (maximum) - 1 point;
the film formed is water and vapor impermeable.

too thick a layer should be avoided.

Self-leveling 3d floors are not only very effective and beautiful covered, by completing such a coating, you can provide a high-quality floor for many years, and with a high-quality selection of a pattern, even visually increase the m3 of the room. Self-leveling 3d floors are very much appreciated, because if the technology is followed, the design of the room turns out to be stunning and does not require additional carpeting.

Self-leveling floor

The price of a self-leveling floor with a volumetric pattern is not cheap, but the end result is worth it, because the coating has a number of advantages over other analogues:

3D flooded floors last up to 30 years and do not lose their attractiveness;
they can be cleaned with chemicals, the jellied floor will not lose its gloss and brightness;
3d floors can be installed in any residential type room;
floor 3d does not emit harmful substances into the air, it is considered environmentally friendly;
the 3d self-leveling floor is fire-resistant, which increases the safety of the home.

Do-it-yourself self-leveling 3d floors are easy to do if you get acquainted with the technique of applying all layers in stages. The most difficult and expensive stage is the development and printing of a picture that is planned to be placed on the floor.

Choosing a drawing for a 3D self-leveling floor

The image is what distinguishes ordinary from 3 d, but it is he who complicates the whole technology of construction work.

The development of a drawing layout for 3D floors is not a cheap process, but you can try to prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself at least at a basic level with the Photoshop program. It will be great if a more experienced friend helps at this stage. It is important to understand that the image should be large and of good quality, with bright, highlighted contours. Otherwise, the floor will turn out to be grainy and ugly, and the money will simply go down the drain.

There are two ways to select a picture - to find it in Internet resources and take a photo of a place or object you like. To avoid graininess, the image must be at least 300 dpi. It is no less responsible to approach the choice of drawing. Worth considering overall design rooms and choose a drawing that is most suitable and emphasizes the beauty and general idea.

Self-leveling floor. Drawing

Photo of the room and installation of the drawing for the 3d floor

The selected image needs to be matched to the size of the room, so you need to do a few simple steps. First you need to take a photo of the room in which you plan to lay bulk 3D floors. It is necessary to take pictures from the doorway. We load the picture into the program, where we put a drawing on the floor plane, it is worth carefully trimming all the corners so that the drawing coincides as much as possible in shape with the room.

Printing on paper and fabric for self-leveling floors

Canvas printing is best done in printing companies, for example, for outdoor advertising. Such a move will save money, since self-preparation of the canvas will be several times cheaper than ordering a ready-made picture from specialists.

To make sure that all the miscalculations were correct, it is better to first print the drawing on paper. The paper layout must be spread on the floor and all errors must be determined. After eliminating all the shortcomings, you can order a finishing print on the fabric.

Stages of laying a jellied 3D floor

Do-it-yourself self-leveling 3d floors are easy to do, if you follow the instructions and do not deviate from the laying technology.

It is important to understand that the smoother the surface on which the drawing will be applied, the better the bulk 3d floor will be. It is also necessary to take into account that 3 weeks will be done, during this period it will be impossible to use the room.

Before making a self-leveling floor, you need to stock up on the necessary equipment, for this you will need:

large capacity for the preparation of the emulsion;
rollers with which the layers will be applied;
needle roller to remove air bubbles from the mixture;
paint shoes - special shoes with small spikes;
a vacuum cleaner;
putty;
topcoat;
fixing varnish;
protective clothing and respirator.

Preparation of the floor surface for pouring 3D floor

In the room where the flooded floor is planned, it is necessary to remove the previous coating up to the screed. After the old coating is removed, it is necessary to carefully remove the surface from dirt, debris and small parts. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this.

Preliminary preparation of the floor for pouring the self-leveling floor

If, in the process of removing the old coating, small potholes and cracks have formed on the screed, then they must be repaired with cement mortar. Otherwise, 3D self-leveling floors will have to be redone. After the cement has dried, the area is thoroughly rubbed over and vacuumed again.

Applying a primer to the base

Before making a self-leveling floor, the base must be covered with a primer. The primer evens out all imperfections in the floor. It is necessary to apply the primer in two layers with a roller, carefully smearing the joints between the wall and the floors. Primer consumption is approximately 1 kilogram per 3 square meters. Each layer must dry out, at least a day is allotted for this.

Application of a base layer of self-leveling 3D floor

This stage is needed in the case when the selected drawing is not solid, but only some elements that will be located on a certain background. The base layer is the background of the flooded floor, so the tone must be chosen no less carefully than the drawing itself.

It is necessary to stir the base layer in small portions, since it cools quickly, and only with the help of a special mixer (it is almost impossible to manually obtain a homogeneous mixture). After applying the base coat, it must be rolled with a needle roller to get rid of air bubbles. It takes at least a day to polymerize the base layer, but you need to pay attention to how long the instructions require to dry.

The dry surface is measured with a water level to avoid height differences. If errors are identified, then it will be necessary to apply an additional layer of the base in order to level the base. An uneven floor can significantly reduce its lifespan by up to three times.

Sticking a picture on the floor

Of all the technology, how self-leveling floors are made, gluing a picture is considered the most difficult and crucial moment. Often, a banner fabric with thermal printing is used to apply a picture, the density of which is quite high and it is almost impossible to tear or deform such an image when applied.

The main rule in drawing an image is to get rid of air bubbles. If, in the process of work, flaws in the form of airborne ones were found, then this section must be redone.
The edges of the image should extend slightly beyond the floor and fold into the walls, better then trim off excess than trying to hide the joints.

3D floor topcoat application

In order to pour 3D self-leveling floors correctly, and the properties of the topcoat were on high level it is necessary to observe a thickness of 3-4 mm, for this, about 4 kg of the mixture is consumed per 1 square meter of the coating, but the amount of kg may vary depending on the selected manufacturer, because the density of the finishing layer may differ. Therefore, before applying, you must read the instructions on the package and the manufacturer's advice.

This final stage should be step-by-step and in no case should you rush. The mixture hardens within 15-40 minutes, so you need to act in a coordinated and organized manner.

First you need to calculate how much emulsion you need to prepare and start. Mixing should only be done with a mixer. The finished emulsion must be evenly distributed throughout the room, paying attention to the corners and joints with the wall. Walking on the flooded floor is possible only with paint shoes. It is important that particles of debris, hair or dust do not fall on the top layer. After spreading, the surface must be carefully worked out with a needle roller.

The finished room is protected from direct sunlight and left to dry, this will take up to 2 weeks.

After such simple procedures, a room with a 3D flooded floor will be ready.

It is difficult to imagine modern renovation without high-quality flooring. Moreover, when you want to bring something new and creative into the atmosphere. Therefore, it's time to think about how to make a 3d floor with your own hands, and a video with step-by-step description works can be viewed on the Internet.

Benefits

Thanks to innovative building materials and modern technologies you can independently make a jellied floor, which is not only reliable and functional, but also attractive, extraordinary and appropriate to the style of interior decoration.

Among the features and advantages of 3d floor, it is worth noting:

attractiveness and originality;
the ability to transfer a huge number of fantasies and ideas to the floor;
resistance of 3d floor to mechanical damage;
hygiene of the coating;
the ability to perform pouring technology on any base;
resistance of 3d floor to moisture and chemicals;
ease of use;
the ability to do everything yourself.

About diversity

3 d floor casting technology allows you to make original cover that will look beautiful as in office space and in the living room.

Decorative self-leveling coatings can be decorated with any pattern, pattern, in any color scheme, which allows the owner of the premises to bring to life the most extraordinary, daring and diverse ideas.

For instance:

Pouring the base

In the living room, the floor can be decorated in the form of a photo of a flower meadow or a big city.
In the room for children, you can place your child's favorite characters from cartoons or fairy tales on the 3d floor.
In the bedroom, it is recommended to decorate the floor with a famous painting, an unobtrusive pattern, etc.
A bathtub or toilet can be decorated with a fill with a photo of dolphins, shells or other marine-themed elements.
The floor in the office space can be complemented with a company logo or other brand name.

Today, pouring technologies offer an incredible number of design solutions with which you can create 3d floors in different options and without restrictions. After all modern materials provide a wide range of colors and shades that do not limit your imagination.

Installation of floors

If you decide to do the installation of 3d floors with your own hands, then, despite your confidence, you will have to repeatedly look through the photos, and also better video showing phased implementation fill.

The process consists of the following types of work:

Preliminary surface preparation.
Base creation - filling the polymer layer. How to do it yourself, you can watch the video on the Internet.
Picture or photo sticker.
Covers the image with a transparent component.
The last stage is the application of a special wear-resistant and shockproof layer.

Innovative technologies

Compliance with all of the above steps allows you to create the effect of a 3-dimensional image. In this case, the depth of 3 d of the effect will depend on the height of the application of the last layer.

The design of the 3d floor is an exclusively individual creation that allows for a wide variety of experiments. For example, instead of a photo or drawing, you can use dried flowers and leaves, pebbles, multi-colored crystals, colored sand and other decorative elements.

Many experts say that making 3d floors with your own hands is too difficult and almost impossible. Since the slightest non-observance of the technology significantly reduces the life of the coating.

It is for this reason that it is possible to independently perform a self-leveling 3-dimensional coating only if all the subtleties of installation and the stages of technology are observed.

Materials used

In order to do the installation of 3d floors with your own hands, you must use the following materials:

A two-component polymer mixture consisting of a hardener and a transparent base, which are mixed before use.
Decor elements - photos, drawings, a variety of natural materials that will determine appearance floors and create the desired 3d effect.

Surface preparation

Preparation of the solution

This stage in the technology of creating 3 d self-leveling floors consists in carrying out the following actions:

dismantling skirting boards and old flooring;
installation of waterproofing is important for rooms with high humidity;
leveling the surface using a concrete screed or sand-cement mortar;
surface grinding using grinder or grinders with a diamond wheel;
elimination of cracks, chips, potholes and other defects using cement mortar or epoxy-based composition.

After the surface is level and smooth, it is necessary to remove the debris with fragments and remove the dust using a vacuum cleaner. Indoor humidity should be no higher than 50%.

Base priming

Distribution of special substance

The concrete base must be treated with a primer so that the base layer of the self-leveling floor with a 3-dimensional image is better connected to it.

Use light-nap spatulas, brushes or rollers to apply the primer. The solution is applied in at least 2 layers.

Application of a polymer layer

People who make 3D floors with their own hands must know that the application of the polymer layer must be started no later than 20 hours after priming. A polymer layer is used as a base base, ideal for applying a pattern to it.

Special compounds are applied to the floor screed. But first they are mixed with a solvent in a ratio of 2: 1 using a special mixer, since it is strictly forbidden to do this with your hands.

The mixture must be prepared in small portions, as after 30 minutes the composition will harden. The product is poured onto the surface, after which the base is carefully leveled with a special needle roller and the rule, removing all air bubbles.

Drawing a picture

This is the new seamless designer floor

After waiting for the base base to dry, you can start decorating the surface. Today there are two ways to apply an image for 3-day self-leveling floors:

Drawing a pattern with acrylic paints. This can only be done by a person with certain drawing skills.
Bonding the finished image or photo.

The first method is quite effective and reliable, but relatively expensive. Since it is necessary to have expensive UV-resistant materials to create a picture.

The second option is more common. For this, drawings or photos that are suitable for the style of the interior are taken. They are processed in a graphics editor, their brightness and color are corrected, then they are stretched to the right size and printed on heavy media.

The most popular options today are vinyl or thermal printed banner fabrics. When placing the image on the base, you should look so that air bubbles do not get under the film.

Filling the polymer component

The polymer composition is poured directly onto the image with a layer of at least 3 mm. The composition is mixed in a clean dish using a drill with a special attachment. The mortar is poured onto the floor in separate portions and leveled using a needle roller. Rolling is done until the composition begins to thicken.

The last stage is the application of a protective layer.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself self-leveling floors with a 3-dimensional image is not so difficult and time-consuming as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to work carefully and observe all stages of the technological process, as well as to use materials good quality... Self-installation of such a coating will significantly save money, since the services of specialists are quite expensive.

Semyon Knyazev