How to make a sports equipment yourself. Outdoor workout: do-it-yourself outdoor sports equipment

Making rockets with your own hands from scrap materials is a popular hobby among Westerners. In Russia, home "rocketry" is not in such high demand, but even here there are enthusiasts. And in most cases these are not students of technical specialties, but the parents of little fidgets and young dreamers. Only loving mothers, fathers and creative teachers-educators know how to make a rocket with their own hands from paper, cardboard, and a bottle, so that it not only involves the kids in space travel, but also takes off effectively. Using diagrams and models, daring experimenters will make a rocket that flies out of matches and foil. Don't believe me? Experience our master classes with photos and videos firsthand!

How to make a space rocket with your own hands from scrap materials - a step-by-step master class for children and parents

To present your child with a new exciting toy, you do not have to visit stores and auctions of expensive children's goods. You can make a bright, interesting and, most importantly, safe little thing with your own hands. For example - an intergalactic rocket for entertaining role-playing games and virtual travel. And our step-by-step master class "How to make a space rocket from scrap materials with your own hands" will simplify and accelerate the collective creative process of parents and children.

Required materials for a rocket from scrap materials

plastic bottle
colored terry sock
glue gun
sheet of red felt
thick foil
cardboard
scissors
red and yellow yarn
paper towel tube
thin lace

Step-by-step master class for children on creating a space rocket from scrap materials

Wash the empty plastic bottle with warm water and dry. Pull a colored sock onto a clean, dry container. Tie a thin string under the bottom of the bottle, and cut off the tail.
Cut out two circles with a diameter of 5 cm out of red felt. Glue the shapes onto the finished rocket base, simulating portholes. On the red circles, fix the same round pieces of thick foil, but with a smaller diameter, with a glue gun. Approximately 3.5 cm.
Draw three fins on a piece of white cardboard. Cut out the shapes and glue the tip down to the rocket on three sides.
Cut a ring 5-6 cm wide from a cardboard tube (from toilet paper or paper towels). Wrap the part with thick foil. Wrap the red woolen threads in the palm of your hand, then glue the resulting skein with one side to the previously prepared part.
Do the same with the yellow yarn. So it will turn out to make the lower part of the rocket with decorative flames. Fix the part with a glue gun to the bottom of the bottle. This completes the step-by-step master class for children and parents "How to make a space rocket with your own hands from scrap materials"!

How to make a bright rocket out of cardboard and paper with your own hands - diagrams and models

If preschoolers are delighted and delighted with a small toy rocket, the size of a bottle, then older kids will like a full-length spacecraft. Your own intergalactic ship will allow junior schoolchildren to feel like real captains and show courage, bravery and courage as the main traits of a man's character.

How to correctly make a large model of a rocket out of paper and cardboard with your own hands for a child, see the next master class with diagrams, photos and videos.

Do-it-yourself materials for a paper and cardboard rocket model

carton boxes
colored paper
yogurt cups
disposable plates
plastic covers and buttons
adhesive letters and numbers
bobbins of thread
flower pot
foam circle and pieces of fabric
stencils letters
markers
scissors
pencil
satin ribbons
thick foil
glue gun

A simple diagram of how to make a do-it-yourself model of a rocket out of cardboard and paper

With the help of the little ones, start creating a colorful rocket. Let the kids help you with their favorite toy tools. Use a large appliance box as the rocket base. Ideally, from the refrigerator.
Use a dyed flower pot, disposable tableware, and plastic sewing thread spools to make the top of a rocket. Decorate the details with cuts of satin ribbons and three-dimensional stars made of colored paper.
Cut out a round window in the front wall of the rocket. Wrap the foam circle with multi-colored satin ribbons and glue it to the panel in place of the porthole. Glue a few bobbins of thread just above and mark them with adhesive numbers. This will make it easier for the little pilot to keep track of the time to launch. Place another instrument panel below the porthole to make the rocket more interesting.
On the right side of the space rocket, equip the fuel cap with bright plastic buttons. For this, plastic bottle caps, spools of thread, old buttons from various devices are useful.
Don't forget the front door. Draw a large oblong rectangle on the back of the rocket and cut through three sides (bottom, top, and right). The remaining left side will serve as a curtain. Decorate the captain's door with decorative items.
Draw two legs on thick cardboard, cut out the details and cover them with foil. Fix the elements to the bottom of the right and left side of the rocket. With this the spacecraft is ready. You can clearly see how to make a bright rocket out of cardboard and paper with your own hands in the model diagram.

How to make a rocket with your own hands so that it flies - step by step instructions with photos and videos

Even using the most primitive waste materials (candy boxes, cardboard tubes from napkins, etc.), you can make an unusual rocket that will fly with your own hands. Of course, she will not be able to surf the expanses of the universe, but she will boldly set off on a journey through the children's room. Use our step-by-step instructions with photos and videos to make your kids a glorious gift for the significant Cosmonautics Day.

Do-it-yourself necessary materials for a flying paper rocket

paper towel tube
thick cardboard
scissors
pencil
brushes and paints gouache
permanent marker
yarn
straw for drinks

Step-by-step instructions with photos and videos on how to create a flying rocket with your own hands

How to make a simple launcher bottle rocket to take off

If the kids have grown up a long time ago and are no longer interested in cardboard toy models, invite them to make a simple rocket with a trigger that can fly high and effectively. Rest assured, the stunt with the launch of a spacecraft will delight even an adult. What can we say about impressionable teenagers.

Required Materials for a Basic Launcher Bottle Rocket

thick cardboard
thin cardboard
Scotch
plastic bottle
plasticine
wine stopper
pencil
scissors
Bicycle Pump

Step-by-step instructions for creating a simple rocket with a trigger

Roll a sheet of thin cardboard into a cone. Trim the edge to make the shape straight.
Cover the finished cone with colored tape, this will increase its resistance to water.
Wash and dry the empty bottle. Paint the container in any color, draw an emblem if you wish, or leave an inscription.
The main part of the rocket - the cone - glue it with liquid silicone to the bottom of the bottle. Try to make the structure as flat as possible.
Cut 3-4 right-angled triangles out of thicker cardboard. Glue the parts to the bottle. This will give the rocket tail keels. Ideally, the "legs" should end at the extreme point of the container neck.
Weight the bottom of the rocket. To do this, wrap a piece of plasticine around the neck of the bottle and mask the load with adhesive tape.
Pour 1 liter of water into the bottle.
Make a thin hole in the wine stopper with a needle. The hole should not be larger than the diameter of the needle from the bicycle pump.
Insert the stopper carefully into the neck of the bottle. Insert the needle from the bike pump firmly to prevent it from popping out.
Take the rocket with its neck towards the top and connect it to the pump. Turn the spacecraft over and position it so that it does not fly in your direction.
Holding with your hand, inflate the rocket with air. Then release the craft and continue pumping air. A simple rocket from a bottle with a launcher will take off as soon as the cork can no longer hold the thrust.

How to make a rocket out of matches, foil and other improvised materials with your own hands on video

And for those who strive to remember a fun and carefree childhood, being already old enough, we have prepared another master class with a video on making a flying rocket from matches, paper clips and foil. This time, you will not have to make crafts from cardboard, paper, bottles and other scrap materials. It is enough just to remember the very unpretentious model that flies, and accurately reproduce it, observing safety precautions. And if you can't recall the step-by-step instructions in any way, watch the video "How to make a rocket out of matches, foil and other materials with your own hands."

Rocket modeling is an activity that attracts not only children, but also quite adults and successful people, as can be understood from the composition of the teams of athletes at the World Championship in rocket modeling, which will be held in Lviv on August 23-28. Even NASA employees will come to compete on it. With rockets assembled by ourselves. In order to make the simplest operating model of a rocket with your own hands, special knowledge and skills are not needed - there are a large number of detailed instructions on the Internet. You can use them to make your rocket out of paper, even from parts purchased from a hardware store. In this article, we will take a closer look at what rockets are, what they are made of and how to make a rocket with our own hands. So in anticipation of the Championship, you can get your own model and even launch it in flight. Who knows, maybe by August you will decide to take part in the out-of-class competition for launching rockets with a payload "Save Space Eggs" (held as part of the Championship) and compete for a prize fund of 4,000 euros.

What the rocket consists of

Any rocket model, regardless of class, necessarily consists of the following parts:

Frame. The rest of the elements are attached to it, and the engine and the rescue system are installed inside.
Stabilizers. They are attached to the bottom of the rocket body and give it stability in flight.
Rescue system. Needed to slow down the free fall of a rocket. It can be in the form of a parachute or a brake band.
Head fairing. This is the cone-shaped head of the rocket, which gives it an aerodynamic shape.
Guide rings. Attached to the body on one axis, needed in order to secure the rocket to the launcher.
Engine. It is responsible for rocket take-off and is present even in the simplest models. They are divided into groups according to the total thrust impulse. You can buy a model engine from a store for technical creativity or assemble it yourself. But in this article, we will focus on the fact that you already have a ready-made engine.

Not part of a rocket, but a must-have launcher. It can be purchased ready-made or assembled independently from a metal rod on which the rocket is attached and a trigger. But we'll also focus on what launcher you have.

Classes of missiles and their differences

In this section, we will look at the classes of missiles that can be seen with our own eyes at the World Championship in Rocket Modeling in Lvov. There are nine of them, of which eight are approved by the International Aeronautical Federation, as official for the World Championship, and one - S2 / P - is open not only for athletes, but also for everyone who wants to compete.

Rockets for competitions or just for yourself can be made from different materials. Paper, plastic, wood, foam, metal. A mandatory requirement is that the materials are not explosive. The serious rocket sportsmen use specific materials that are the best for rocket targets, but can be expensive or exotic.

An S1 class rocket in competition must demonstrate the best flight altitude. These are some of the simplest and smallest rockets that take part in competitions. S1, like other missiles, are divided into several subclasses, which are indicated by letters. The closer to the beginning of the alphabet, the less the total thrust impulse of the engine, which is used to launch the rocket.

Rockets of the S2 class are designed to carry payload, in accordance with the FAI requirements, "payload" can be something compact and fragile, with a diameter of 45 millimeters and a weight of 65 grams. For example, a raw chicken egg. A rocket can have one or more parachutes, with the help of which the payload and the rocket will return to the ground safe and sound. S2-class missiles cannot have more than one stage and in flight they must not lose a single part. The athlete needs to launch the model to a height of 300 meters and at the same time land it in 60 seconds. But if the cargo is damaged, then the result will not be counted at all. So it's important to strike a balance. The weight of the model with the engine must not exceed 1500 grams, and the weight of the fuel components in the engine must not exceed 200 grams.

S3-class rockets may look exactly like S1-class rockets to the uninitiated viewer, but their tasks in competition are different. S3 are rockets for the duration of the descent using a parachute. The specificity of the competition in this class lies in the fact that an athlete needs to make three rocket starts, using only two rocket models. Accordingly, at least one of the models still needs to be found after launch, and they often land several kilometers from the starting zone.

For models of this class, the diameters of parachutes usually reach a diameter of 90-100 centimeters. Common materials are fiberglass, balsa wood, cardboard, and the nose is made of lightweight plastic. The ribs are made of lightweight balsa wood and can be covered with cloth or fiberglass.

The S4 class is represented by gliders, which must be in flight for as long as possible. These are "winged" devices, whose appearance is quite seriously different from what can be expected from a rocket. They rise into the sky with the help of an engine. But in gliders it is forbidden to use anything that will give them acceleration or somehow affect the hover, in the sky the device must be kept solely due to its aerodynamic characteristics. The materials for such rockets are usually balsa wood, the wings are made of fiberglass or foam, and balsa wood too, that is, everything that weighs almost nothing.

The S5 class of rockets are replica rockets, the purpose of their flight is altitude. The competition takes into account not only the quality of the flight, but also how accurately the participant succeeded in repeating the body of a real rocket. These are mainly two-stage models with a massive launch vehicle and a very narrow nose. They usually travel very quickly towards the sky.

S6-class rockets are very similar to S3-class rockets, but in flight they throw out a brake band (streamer). In fact, it serves as a rescue system. Since missiles of this class must also hold out in the air for as long as possible, the task of the competitor is to create the most lightweight and at the same time strong body. Models are made from parchment or fiberglass. The nose is made of vacuum plastic, fiberglass, paper, and the stabilizers are made of light balsa wood, which is covered with fiberglass for durability. Tapes for such missiles are usually made of aluminized lacquer. The tape should "flap" intensively in the wind, resisting the fall. Its dimensions usually range from 10x100 centimeters to 13x230 centimeters.

S7 class models require very painstaking work. Like the S5, these models are multi-stage replicas of real missiles, but unlike the S5, in flight they are judged, among other things, by how plausibly they repeat the start and flight of a real rocket. Even the colors of the rocket must match the "original". That is, this is the most spectacular and difficult class, do not miss it at the World Championship in rocket modeling! Both juniors and seniors will compete in this class on 28 August. The most popular rocket prototypes are Saturn, Ariane, Zenith 3, and Soyuz. Copies of other rockets also take part in the competition, but as practice shows, they usually show worse results.

The S8 are radio-controlled gliding cruise missiles. This is one of the most diverse classes, here the designs and types of materials used differ significantly. The rocket must take off, make a gliding flight within a certain time. Then it needs to be planted in the center of a circle with a diameter of 20 meters. The closer to the center the rocket lands, the more bonus points the participant will receive.

The S9 class are rotorcraft and they also compete with each other in flight time. These are lightweight models made of fiberglass, vacuum plastic and balsa wood. Without an engine, they often weigh about 15 grams. The most intricate part of this class of rockets are the blades, which are usually made from balsa and must have the correct aerodynamic shape. These missiles do not have a rescue system; this effect is achieved due to the autorotation of the blades.

In competitions, rockets of this class, as well as classes S3, S6 and S9, must be at least 40 millimeters in diameter and at least 500 in height. The higher the subclass of the rocket, the larger its dimensions must be. In the case of the most compact S1 missiles, the body diameter should not be less than 18 millimeters, and the length should not be less than 75% of the rocket length. These are the most compact models. In general, there are limitations for each class. They are set out in the FAI (International Aeronautical Federation) code. And before the flight, each model is checked for compliance with the requirements of its class.

Of all the missiles taking part in the current Championship, only the S4, S8 and S9 class models are required that none of their parts be separated during flight, even on a rescue system. For the rest, this is acceptable.

How to make a simple and functional rocket model from scrap materials

The easiest missiles to make at home are the S1 class, and the S6 class is also considered relatively simple. But in this section we will talk about the first one. If you have children, you can either make a rocket model together or trust them to make it themselves.

To make a model, you will need:

two sheets of A4 paper (it is better to choose a multi-colored one to make the rocket look brighter, the paper thickness is about 0.16-0.18 millimeters);
glue;
polystyrene (instead of it, you can use thick cardboard from which boxes are made);
a piece of thin polyethylene, at least 60 cm in diameter;
ordinary sewing thread;
stationery (as for money);
a rolling pin or other object of a similar shape, the main thing is that with a smooth surface and a diameter of about 13-14 centimeters;
a pencil, pen or other object of a similar shape with a diameter of 1 centimeter and another one with a diameter of 0.8 centimeters;
ruler;
compass;
engine and launcher if you plan to use the rocket for its intended purpose.

On the drawings, which are very numerous on the Internet, you can find missiles with different ratios of the length and width of the hull, the "sharpness" of the head fairing and the sizes of the stabilizers. The text below shows the dimensions of the parts, but if you want, you can use other proportions, as in one of the drawings in the gallery below. The procedure remains the same. Take a look at these drawings (especially the last one) if you decide to assemble the model according to the instructions.

Frame

Take one of the sheets of paper you have stored, measure with a ruler 14 centimeters from the edge (if your volume is not the same as ours, just add a couple more millimeters to your figure, they will be needed in order to glue the sheet). Cut off.

Roll the resulting piece of paper around a rolling pin (or whatever you have). The paper should fit perfectly to the item. Glue the sheet directly on the rolling pin to form a cylinder. Let the glue dry, in the meantime, start making the head fairing and tail of the rocket.

The head and tail of the rocket

Take a second sheet of paper and a pair of compasses. Measure with a compass 14.5 centimeters, draw from two diagonally located corners of the circle.

Take a ruler, attach it to the edge of the sheet near the beginning of the circle and measure a point on the circle at a distance of 15 centimeters. Draw a line from the corner to this point and cut out this section. Do the same for the second circle.

Glue the cones from both pieces of paper. Cut off the top of one of the cones by about 3 centimeters. This will be the tail section.

To glue it to the base, make cuts on the bottom of the cone about every centimeter and 0.5 centimeters deep. Bend them out and apply glue to the inside. Then glue it to the rocket body.

To attach the head fairing, you need to make a "ring" through which it will be attached to the base. Take a sheet of the same color you used for the base and cut out a 3x14cm rectangle. Roll it into a cylinder and glue it. The diameter of the ring must be slightly less than the diameter of the rocket base for it to fit perfectly into it. Glue the ring to the rocket head in the same way you glued the base (just don't cut anything off the cone this time). Insert the other side of the ring into the base of the rocket to check if you guessed the diameter.

Let's go back to the tail section. The rocket needs to be stabilized and provided with an engine compartment. To do this, you need to again take the paper from which you made the base of the rocket, cut out a 4x10 cm rectangle, find an oblong and round object with a diameter of about 1 cm and wrap a piece of paper around it, having previously greased it with glue over the entire area so that you end up with a dense multilayer cylinder ... On one side of the cylinder, make 4mm cuts, fold them back, apply glue to the inside and glue to the tail.

The rocket should have stabilizers at the bottom. They can be made from thin sheet polystyrene or, if not available, thick cardboard. You need to cut out four rectangles with sides of 5x6 centimeters. Cut out the retainers from these rectangles. You can choose any shape you like.

Please note that the head fairing, tail cone and engine compartment must be aligned exactly along the longitudinal axis of the hull (they must not be tilted away from the hull).

Rescue system

In order for the rocket to return smoothly to the ground, it needs a rescue system. In this model we are talking about a parachute. Ordinary thin polyethylene can act as a parachute. You can take, for example, a 120 liter bag. For our rocket, we need to cut out a circle with a diameter of 60 centimeters in it and fasten it to the body with slings (about 1 meter long). There should be 16. Strong threads are suitable for the role of slings. Attach the lines to the parachute with tape at an equal distance from each other.

Fold the parachute in half, then in half again, then squeeze.

To secure the parachute, take another string, the length of which should be twice the length of the body. Glue it to the engine compartment between the two stabilizers. Tie an elastic band to the thread in two places, so that if you pull on the thread, the elastic will stretch, and the thread is a stretch limitation (recommendations: tie the elastic to the thread at a distance of 5 centimeters from the upper edge of the case).

Before placing the parachute, a wad must be placed in the rocket. A wad can be, for example, a piece of cotton wool (or soft paper, napkins). Make a ball out of the material you like and insert it into the rocket. If you have talcum powder, sprinkle it with talcum powder to prevent possible ignition from a charge detonation. The wad should not fit tightly, but the amount of cotton wool should also be sufficient to push out the rescue system.

Insert it inside the rocket, then place the parachute and lines. Carefully, in rings, so that they do not get tangled.

A streamer can also act as a rescue system, and if you want to make an S6-class rocket, you can see how to pack and tie it in these photos.

Mount to launcher and launch

Cut out two rectangles 1.5 x 3 centimeters. Roll them into a cylinder with a diameter of about 0.8 centimeters so that the launcher mount will slide freely through these cylinders. Glue to the rocket base on the same axis a few centimeters from the top and bottom of the base.

Install the engine in the engine compartment. Ready to go!

To start, you need a metal rod with a length of at least a meter and a diameter of 4-5 millimeters. It should be strictly vertical to the ground. Regardless of any conditions, the end of the rod must be at least 1.5 meters above the ground to avoid injury to your eyes.

Never try to launch a rocket at home! Even this seemingly innocent device can cause a lot of trouble in a room. The distance from the launch site to the nearest houses must be at least 500 meters.

After igniting the engine, move at least 3-5 meters away from the rocket. Spectators, if any, should be at a distance of 10-15 meters. If you plan to entrust the launch to a child who is under 16, be sure to stay with him.

P.S.

Despite the fact that making the simplest paper rocket is not difficult at all, rocket modeling is a serious and interesting sport that requires a lot of work and a lot of time. And also very entertaining. Against the background of the growing interest from private companies in space exploration, the popularization of this topic among the population, especially children, is extremely promising. After all, those who have been attracted by space since childhood are more likely to choose it as a field of activity in adulthood. If in Ukraine several decades ago the topic of space would not have been so popular among children, then it is unlikely that now in our country there would be people and companies like that invest in such a promising industry as space. An event of the level of the World Rocket Modeling Championship could not have passed - because there would be no strong teams and a great desire to stir up interest in the industry among the next generations. We have already written about how interesting the Championship promises to be. There, by the way, it will be possible to assemble a rocket yourself from ready-made parts. Come to Lviv, see everything with your own eyes. Detailed information about the event can be found at its

The simplest sports equipment can be made by any person. Almost any person is capable of inventing this or that device, including for sports purposes. However, it should be borne in mind that we are surrounded by a great variety of ready-made shells and simulators. So, for example, in the absence of an expander, its role will be perfectly performed by a hemostatic rubber tourniquet or a rubber bandage sold in pharmacies. To increase the load, several tourniquets are used or a medical bandage is folded in several layers, and in their absence, the expander will be replaced by elastic training pants or tights, the amplitude of stretching of which, unfortunately, is not very large.

An excellent raw material for making a rubber shock absorber is an old car tube, from which the shock absorber ring elements are cut. They can be used on their own or they can be attached to specially made handles. Such shock absorbers stretch well and do not tear.

It is easy to make a weight from a car camera by cutting off an unnecessary part and cutting through 4 handles, after which wet sand, pebbles or crushed stone are poured into the weight-bag.

A lacing kettlebell can be sewn from tarpaulin by placing a plastic bag with a weight filler in it. An ordinary stick is used as a handle. The weight can be made from any metal blank by welding the handle. If such a weight is uncomfortable and presses on the forearm, then it is covered with a soft cloth cover.

A good sports equipment will be obtained from a wooden "headstock" used for compacting the soil. It is a log with a handle nailed to the end. With it, you can pump the biceps and perform the traction, and to increase the weight, it is either soaked in water, or additional weights are stuffed onto the log.

If you insert a handle into a piece of a hollow log or into a metal blank, you will get a completely new projectile.

Such sports equipment can be performed with removable discs.

Another unusual projectile is a steel cylinder with an adjustable handle. By rearranging the handle, the physical shoulder is lengthened or shortened, changing the load on the muscles. Another sports equipment for training biceps works in a similar way.

On a special armrest with a handle and a neck, discs are installed, with the ability to move and fix them along the entire length of the neck using locks.

As a rule, beginners purchase inexpensive one-piece ball dumbbells. But after a few months they turn out to be unusable due to their low weight. Interchangeable weights will help to correct the situation, each of which consists of two halves, fixed together with bolts.

It is very easy to make a dumbbell from a pipe, the ends of which are sawn and unbent, and large cans of tomato paste with a volume of 3 liters filled with cement are suitable as a load.

More difficult, but more convenient to use is a dumbbell, consisting of a handle, to which metal boxes with three compartments in each are welded.

The compartments are made to the size of the bricks and are closed with a common cover. The weight of such a dumbbell can be changed by adding or decreasing the number of bricks. For professionals working on muscles with large weights and at different angles, a dumbbell is suitable, the handle of which is set at any desired angle.

A barbell can be thought of as a large dumbbell and is made using the same techniques as for making a dumbbell. To make the simplest neck, it is enough to use a crowbar, and in its absence, a piece of a water pipe. Wooden plugs are driven in from both sides of the pipe, having previously filled in shot, small pebbles or sand.

Limiters in the form of bushings with clamps are installed on the pipe and the simplest locks are made, also in the form of bushings with a threaded clamp. Rod discs are either made from suitable scrap metal, or poured out of cement into a special mold, or made of wood. You can increase the weight of the wooden disc by using dumbbell weights mounted on the disc rods.

For additional fixation of the weights, the simplest locking elements can be used. A convenient rod will turn out from a metal box to which a U-shaped pipe is welded.

The geometry of the bent tube is measured in advance, based on the height of the bench on which the bench press is performed and the height of the athlete's chest. Any heavy objects are put into the box, be they stones or light sports equipment. If you make the U-shaped tube extendable, then you can perform squats with weights while standing on a bench.
Curved barbells are used to work out various muscle bundles. At home, not everyone can afford it. But everyone can make special devices for rods.

Having decided on the shape of the attachment and the diameter of the neck, it is ordered from any master of metal.
If an athlete has any sports equipment, then for a variety of exercises with them, appropriate devices are made to sum up the weight of the equipment. So, for exercises with weights, a holder is made, which allows not only to sum up the weights, but also to train, carrying out various grips.

By installing weights on a homemade bar, you will get an almost real barbell.

For deadlifts, presses, squats, a device is perfect, which is a support, on the axis of which a beam with handles is installed.

Holes for weights or other weights are made on the supporting beam, the rearrangement of which is used to achieve the required load.

A homemade expander is made from door springs, connecting them in length by two pieces, and the handles are copied from the factory expander. If the force has increased, and there are no more springs, then rubber shock absorbers pass inside the springs, which increase the total load and do not get tangled. To use the expander as a "block", a wide hook-holder is bent out of metal. By combining an expander and a dumbbell or an expander and a barbell in one design, they achieve the summation of the loads produced by each of the sports equipment.

For the manufacture of block devices, you will need pulleys - wheels with grooves for a cable or rope, which are fixed on the axle. Removable pulleys can be hooked. Interesting combinations can be achieved by attaching the pulleys to a bench or footrest. A mushroom rod is used for attachment to a block of discs, and single or double hooks are used for weights and dumbbells.

Everyone knows how to make a crossbar. But where to get the bars, few know. After all, push-ups from the bars with or without weight is one of the main exercises. A kitchen table with spacers inserted between the legs is perfect as bars.

Without spacers, the legs will break. You can also do push-ups from two tables or pedestals, and if they have different heights, then alternate push-ups, turning 180 degrees. The bars can be two sticks, preferably with flat ends.

Placed on a window sill and table, they make an excellent folding exercise machine. The simplest bars are two chairs with their backs facing each other. But this design is not stable. Therefore, we recommend that you fasten the backs of the chairs with a board with slots for the backs. There may be several slots in the board, corresponding to different widths of the grip during push-ups.

For push-ups from the floor, special straight or beveled stands are used. They can be crafted from wood or metal. They allow you to work out the pectoral muscles very well with deep push-ups. Stands are used for various types of push-ups, including in a stand against the wall.

The rope turns into a static simulator, which can not only be stretched, but with which you can even "push up" either in a given position, or by pushing up and simultaneously releasing the rope clamped by your hands. The athlete's best friend is a book that will also perform the functions of supports and a static expander for the pectoral muscles and biceps.

The branches of the tree will turn into a "natural natural block" that affects both the development of the broadest muscles of the back and the muscles of the arms.

Well, brushes, for example, can be trained with any object at all, be it a bicycle tire, a piece of rubber mat or a plastic bottle.

CONCLUSION: When training at home, it is important not to be afraid to experiment, it is necessary to look for new ways to work out certain muscle groups, to design previously unknown simulators, sports, equipment and devices.

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How to make a barbell

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Homemade snow scooters

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Do-it-yourself barbell

Like a homemade barbell from scrap materials. A simple simulator for summer cottages or installation in the yard near the house.

Homemade playground

How to make a homemade playground with your own hands

How to make dumbbells

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Homemade speed sled

Sleds for downhill skiing, which not only allow you to reach speeds of up to 150 km / h, but also control them both while driving and during flight after jumping from a springboard.

Homemade simulators

Making a horizontal bar with your own hands, a homemade trainer for the broadest muscles of the back,

A country house or dacha is not only a place for beds and berry bushes. It is pleasant and useful to do physical exercise in the open air, keeping fit and maintaining health. The best tool for this is your own horizontal bar or other uncomplicated sports equipment, which can be used by adults and children to train.

How to choose a horizontal bar

There are many options for making outdoor exercise machines. To determine the design, you need to understand exactly what you want to get from the sports equipment. People who are constantly involved in physical education do not have this question - the accumulated experience of regular exercise helps.

What do regular training on the horizontal bar give

Those who do physical education occasionally and do not systematize their skills can be reminded of the important points:

The horizontal bar is the simplest sports equipment that can be easily made with your own hands. If there is no desire or time to do this, they buy a finished product in a specialized store, both individually and in a set with other gymnastic apparatus.
All people, regardless of age, can be happy to use the horizontal bar, from the elderly to the youngest representatives.
Classes on this apparatus allow the athlete to constantly keep himself in good shape, be fit and strong.
Exercises of a passive nature on the horizontal bar help to stretch and relax the spine, relieving tension after working in an uncomfortable position in the garden.
It is extremely beneficial for schoolchildren and students to do relaxation exercises after sitting at a desk for a long time. They help to correct posture and get an additional boost of vivacity as a result of increased blood circulation.
Regular workouts increase endurance and resistance to the increased psychological stress that accompanies us everywhere.
A variety of horizontal bar designs, their reasonable combination with other sports equipment are very attractive for young children, which gradually draws them into physical education.
Classes in the fresh and clean country air help to strengthen the body and cleanse it of harmful products that saturate the air of cities.

Outdoor exercise is healthy and enjoyable

Types of horizontal bars

The choice of the design of this simple projectile depends on many factors, including the size of the site. There was a time when its typical area was 4 ares. It is clear that in such areas, the construction of a sports campus or a simple horizontal bar is not a priority task.

Such a device does not take up much space on the site, but it allows you to perform a number of warm-up and strength exercises.

Horizontal bar with a crossbar on two posts.
A simple horizontal bar with a crossbar takes up little space, but the possibilities of training on such a projectile are still limited.
Gymnastic complex - training methods can be significantly expanded if parallel bars, wall bars are installed together with a horizontal bar and a rope is suspended.
With such a projectile, you can expand the range of exercises for all muscle groups, make training interesting and meaningful.
Children's gymnastic complex - the child will be happy to spend time on such simulators, especially if the composition is supplemented with a pendulum swing.
To attract the younger generation to physical education, the gymnastic complex must be properly designed and carefully thought out in order to interest the child in training

Choosing a place for simulators

Before working out the design and composition of the simulators, you need to decide on the location of the gymnastic town. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the opinion of specialists with experience in such work:

the most suitable place for placing simulators will be the backyard, isolated from the excessive curiosity of passers-by and neighbors;
The underlying surface of the training area must be flexible enough to avoid injury from falls. The best material is crumb rubber. To use it, you need to remove the soil layer of the earth, arrange a drainage layer up to 15 cm thick from sand and gravel, the shock-absorbing bedding is also covered with a layer of 15 cm. You can use sawdust and shavings instead of crumbs;
Avoid placing exercise equipment in the sun, as the heat will not allow exercising or just spending time with children during the day. You should choose a well-shaded or semi-shaded side of the site. However, tree branches or bushes should not interfere with activities.

The backyard will be the best place to place your own gym.

Main design characteristics

First of all, you need to decide on the material that will be used in the manufacture of simulators. To do this, it is worth conducting an audit of the remnants of building materials from the construction of a country house.

Materials (edit)

Metal. The most convenient are the remains of the casing from the well device at the site. Mostly for private wells, pipes with a size of 89-146 mm are used; any product from this interval will serve for a long time and reliably. An additional argument in favor of using pipes is the presence of a welding machine in the courtyard and the ability to use it. For the same purposes, you can safely use square pipes left over from the construction of the fence on the site. The sizes used in the range from 80x80 mm to 150x150 mm with a wall of 4–5 mm are ideal for the construction of a horizontal bar. High weldability is ensured by the use of steel with a low carbon content for the production of such products.
Wood. Remains of various timber profiles are always sufficient at the end of construction. Of course, preference should be given to coniferous wood or hard species, such as oak, hornbeam, ash, and the like. Profiles can be round, square or rectangular. The use of glued structures can be recognized as a practical solution, since they acquire the properties of anisotropy of mechanical properties.
Fiberglass. For supporting structures, you can successfully use fiberglass shaped products, for example, round or square pipes. The advantage is the absolute inertness to corrosion, the cost of protection from it is not required, but painting for design purposes can be considered mandatory.

Photo gallery: horizontal bars from various materials

Wood trunks were used as supports for the unusual design. Metal is the most common material for sports equipment When constructing a horizontal bar, you can combine metal and plastic Wood is an environmentally friendly material well suited for children's exercise equipment

Dimensions (edit)

Dimensions of the main parts for outdoor sports equipment:

for supporting structures made of metal, pipes with diameters from 89 to 146 mm can be used;
gripping elements of structures for adults - 32–40 mm; seamless and electric-welded pipes can be used, provided they are rigidly attached to the supporting structures (welding);
it is better to make horizontal bars from a bar with a diameter of up to 40 mm from steel 45. Welding in this case is strictly prohibited.

The depth of the bearing elements buried in the ground must be at least 80 cm, concreting is mandatory. Thus, the length of the horizontal bar posts must be at least three meters.

Step-by-step instructions for making a horizontal bar

To make a horizontal bar on the street, you must perform a number of sequential steps.

Training

To develop a draft design of the horizontal bar construction.
Perform sketches of parts with dimensions.
Draw up a specification of the materials required for the manufacture of the horizontal bar, including the main products, fasteners, electrodes, materials for protective coatings, fixtures and tools. By adding to this list the prices for all listed material assets, you can get an estimate of the costs.

This stage must be carefully considered in order to avoid additional costs and not to wander around shops and markets in search of what was previously missed.

Procurement operation

This stage is started after the audit of the available materials and the purchase of the missing. Procurement operations include:

Purchase and delivery of materials and tools.
Cutting running materials into blanks in accordance with sketches. Manufacturing of parts. At this stage, you will need a grinder, a measuring tool and more, depending on the design.
Preparation of the workplace for assembly. Installation of the slipway. Electric cable supply for tool and welding machine operation, grounding device.

When cutting materials, it is vitally important to strictly adhere to the rules for safe work. Do not work without a protective cover on the grinder; protect your face with a face shield. The consequences of violating these rules can be dire.

At the end of the cutting of metal blanks, it is necessary to carefully process the cuts, removing sharp edges and burrs. This can be done with the same grinder or hammer.

Assembly

Before starting this operation, the parts must be laid out on the slipway, first supporting, then auxiliary. In the case of a horizontal bar, you will need two stands and a crossbar. During preparation, you need to choose a method for installing the crossbar and prepare a seat for it in advance.

The bar can be secured in different ways

The upper ends of the pipes must be plugged by welding sheet metal covers to them. Smoothen welded seams with a grinder or files. Blunt sharp edges.

The assembled structure must be protected from the atmosphere before installation. For this:

Protect the lower part, immersed in the ground, against corrosion using bitumen mastic. It can be water-soluble or solvent-borne. Both are quite reliable, but the second dries faster. The mastic is applied to the prepared surface (after removing the rust) at a distance of about one meter from the lower end. This means that a small part of the treated surface will protrude from the soil.
The rest of the structure must be prepared for painting by applying a primer on metal.

Installation

To perform this operation, you need to make two holes in the ground. Their depth is 120 cm, so it is better to use a garden drill with a diameter of 20-25 cm to dig them.

Create a drainage layer at the bottom of the grooves. To do this, sand about 18–20 cm thick must be poured into them. To settle the sand layer, it must be carefully tamped down and spilled with water. On top of it, you need to pour a layer of gravel of medium fraction with a thickness of 10-12 cm and also carefully tamp it.
Lower the structure with its lower ends into the pits, carefully level and plumb. Secure with temporary jibs.
When installing, you need to carefully align the horizontal bar
Prepare a concrete mixture of grade 300, which implies the use of cement grade 400, pure river sand in a ratio of 1: 4. Water is added until the desired consistency is obtained.
Fill the pits with the installed projectile with concrete. The formwork device in this case is optional. In the process of pouring, compact the concrete mass, preventing the formation of air bubbles. At the end of the pouring, cover the surface with a foil. The concrete drying period is at least 7 days, the end of the crystallization of the mass will occur no earlier than after 28 days. In hot weather, you need to remove the film every day and moisten the concrete surface.
Pits for horizontal bar supports are filled with concrete
If the user of the simulators plans to use it to perform amplitude swing exercises, you need to install stretchers - two for each pole. The angle of inclination of the guy wires in relation to the ground surface should be approximately 30 degrees, the deviation from the supports is about 15 degrees. To fasten the guy wires at the ground level, pits 50–60 cm deep are made in it with a diameter according to the existing garden drill. A metal anchor is installed in the concrete for fastening the guy wires.
Children will be interested in bright colors and unusual designs
You need to pay attention to the quality of the ladder rungs. So that the metal surface of the bars does not slip and maintains a normal comfortable temperature, it must be rubberized. Neoprene is also used as a tread coating. For safety reasons, wooden rungs are carefully processed and covered with a colorless, odorless varnish.
Video: building a street horizontal bar and bars with your own hands

An outdoor horizontal bar, complemented by other gymnastic equipment, will help to keep fit, and involving children in training will accustom them to an active lifestyle. And most importantly, such a simulator can be built independently without using expensive materials.