Soil for rooting grape cuttings. Rooting methods at home

Cutting is the most popular and affordable method of propagation of grapes (germination). On the one hand, it takes a lot of time and some effort, but on the other hand, it has a number of advantages. Cuttings are guaranteed to be cut from the best, powerful bushes, while rooting uses the soil of the backyard, which allows the plant to quickly adapt. In addition, this is how the planting material is obtained just in time for planting.

There are several different ways germination of shanks. So, rooting in water provides clarity. And this allows you to prevent the emergence of shoots before the roots appear. Growing in a substrate, in turn, eliminates the need for an intermediate transplant, which is traumatic for young grapes.

Why you need to germinate

Grapes multiply in several ways: by germinating seeds, rooting cuttings, layering and planting seedlings. The first method is used extremely rarely as it takes a lot of time, but does not guarantee the result. The latter ensures the absence of diseases, since in nurseries the seedlings are treated appropriately, but economically not very profitable.

The most popular propagation methods for grapes are with cuttings and layering. The preference of one method or another is determined by the weather conditions of the region. Reproduction by layering involves digging in a long young shoot and rooting it in the ground. At the same time, the new bush adapts to the existing soil. However, this option is feasible only if the earth warms up quickly enough in spring, and warm weather is not limited to July.

How to harvest and store grape cuttings in the fall, read on.

It is much safer to propagate grapes with cuttings in the northern and middle latitudes, where there is a high risk of late frosts, there are few sunny days and the summer is too short.

Cuttings are cut from young fertile vines and the owner himself determines which shoots are most suitable.
In this way, any grape variety can be propagated.- from the most common to the rarest.
Cuttings are specially prepared and rooted in order to obtain first-class planting material just in time for planting.
Chubuki adapted to the conditions of the personal plot and take root even better than seedlings.

Rooting grape seedlings

Features of winter germination (number, what time, period)

In a well-wintered shank, moisture appears on the cut. In addition, the cut itself has a deep green color.

The lower cuts on the cuttings are smoothed out with a sharp knife.
A container of the required volume is filled with lukewarm water - best of all, thawed water, and the shank is placed in it for 2 days.
After soaking, it is treated with a solution to stimulate root growth. To do this, add heteroauxin, root, sodium humate or even ordinary honey to the water.

Germination (planting cuttings)

There are quite a few different methods allowing the rooting of grape cuttings. Most of them are very simple to implement. However, when rooting, one feature of this breeding method must be taken into account. The stalk needs to be rooted, while the awakening of the upper buds, from which the leaves will develop, is best avoided. To do this, several conditions must be met:

after soaking, the upper cut of the shank is again covered with a layer of liquid paraffin. Thus, moisture will not get to the top of the plant so quickly;
certain temperature regime when germinating. Optimal conditions for rooting, the temperature of the water or substrate near the future roots is +24 and +20 C, respectively. The air near the top of the plant should be cool - + 8– + 13 С;
light is not a condition for germination. When rooting by the Pusenko method, the shanks are stored in a cool, dark place, which does not interfere with germination.

You can provide warm conditions for growing grape cuttings by placing them near the battery.

Germination in water in a jar

This method is the simplest and most intuitive.

Into the glass liter jar pour warm filtered water with a layer of 3 cm.
Put a bunch of cuttings in a jar. In this case, a jelly-like substance should stand out from the lower sections. While the juice is being released, the cuttings should be periodically pulled out and rinsed. When the cut swells, the juice will no longer be released.
Banks are placed on the windowsill and often ventilate the room. In such a simple way, they ensure that the liquid in the jar remains warm, and the upper part of the plant is in the cold.
Water is added so that layers of 3 cm are preserved throughout the entire rooting process. Cover the container with plastic wrap to reduce evaporation.
Roots appear after 3-4 weeks. As soon as they reach a length of 2-3 mm, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.

Temperature for rooting grape cuttings in water.

The eyes should not be in the water at all. It is known that roots form the fastest at the water / air interface. A thin layer of water provides aeration, and a small distance from the cut to the bud - 1.5–2 cm, guarantees the passage of the border along the node of the vine.

It also happens that the buds open before the roots appear, despite all the efforts. If there is only one escape, it is left. If several shoots grow, then the very first and strongest is destroyed - it breaks out. The bush can grow from any shoot, but the prematurely appeared sprout will suck all the nutrients from the cuttings and the plant will not be able to root properly.

In the substrate

After the roots appear, the shanks are planted in the ground, or, more precisely, in a special soil mixture or substrate. However, the grapes can be germinated immediately and in the soil mixture. This method is more convenient, since it does not require additional transplantation: containers with grape bushes can simply be planted on the site as soon as warm weather sets in.

Coconut substrate consists of nut shells crushed to varying degrees, usually pressed into briquettes, mats, tablets and other forms.

The most popular substrate is coniferous sawdust. Layers of sawdust 4–5 cm thick are poured into the container, moistened with water, a stalk is installed, and then another 3–4 cm of sawdust is sprinkled on top. Periodically, you need to check the condition of the substrate - it should be slightly damp, but not dry or wet.

When using this method, the shanks are pre-soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 8 hours. Then the cuttings are left in warm water for 2 days.

Soil substrate - for its preparation, river sand, humus are mixed in equal proportions, sawdust and soil from the site. The substrate is distributed in suitable containers, moistened - it should be slightly damp, drainage is pre-laid on the bottom of the vessels - expanded clay, for example. Then the cuttings are placed in a container, and sprinkled with a substrate so that the peephole is below the ground level.

Planting and rooting scheme of cuttings using a substrate

When rooted in water, the stalk is considered ready for transplanting into the ground with a root length of several millimeters. However, in this case, soil is understood as containers with prepared soil. When germinating in the substrate, the shanks are planted directly on the site. In this case, the length of the roots should reach 2–4 cm.

Capacities

For germination in substrates, use any suitable container. For the amateur winegrower, these are cheap plastic bottles and cups.

Plant bottle grape cuttings at home

The cut plastic bottle is the most suitable rooting container:

the material is lightweight, durable and not afraid of moisture;
the cost is more than affordable;
the bottom of the bottle is embossed, which makes it possible to do without additional drainage;
it is very easy to cut plastic when it is necessary to make ventilation holes.

Bottles are used when sprouting stems in substrates and soil mixtures. Expanded clay is placed on the bottom - if necessary, a stalk is installed, covered with soil mixture. In order not to lose moisture, the bottle, along with the seedling, is covered with a plastic glass on top. When shoots appear, the glass is removed.

When transplanting, the seedling must be removed from the bottle. Plastic does not belong to biodegradable materials, therefore, it is impossible to plant the sprout with the container.

In cups (germinate at home)

For rooting, both plastic cups and containers made of thick cardboard are used. The latter are more convenient in that they do not need to be removed when landing on the site - the cardboard decomposes.

Gardeners use 2 methods. The first is no different from growing in bottles: a glass is filled with soil mixture, a cutting is placed in it and the roots appear. The second method is more difficult, but it allows you to keep the upper buds asleep for as long as possible.
In the second case, 3 holes are made more in the bottom of the glass with an awl - for ventilation and a layer of soil mixed with humus is laid. Then a smaller glass is inserted into the container and filled with sand. The stalk is placed in sand and watered.

A layer of humus serves not only as a fertilizer, but also maintains the temperature due to the decomposition of organic components. To maintain soil temperature, it is recommended to wrap the glasses with plastic.

How to understand that the seedlings are ready for planting in the ground (a well and correctly germinated stalk is a condition that you can start / start planting grapes in the spring)

Good rooting is a sign that cuttings can be planted on personal plot... This is not difficult to do.

The fact that the stems have begun can be recognized immediately if they germinated in water or a damp cloth: the roots 2-3 mm long are already a sign that the seedling will be accepted. However, such roots are still very tender, so you should not rush to land right on the site. The seedlings that have taken root are transplanted into containers with soil mixture.
If the cutting is rooted in the substrate or soil, the roots cannot be seen. In this case, 3-4 weeks after disembarkation, the shank is slightly tugged. If resistance is felt, then the roots have appeared. After that it is recommended to reduce watering.

As a rule, after rooting, very abundant green leaves appear.

In the substrate and soil mixture with a sufficient volume of capacity, grapes can develop until the beginning of June. To plant it, however, it is better earlier - in early to mid-May, as soon as the temperature stops dropping below +19 C.

About planting and caring for grapes in open ground find out in this.

Video

This video will tell you when to put grape cuttings for germination.

conclusions

Rooting a large number cuttings before planting in open ground is required element for northern and middle latitudes / bands (Siberia, distant Urals). Too short summer limits the growth and development of the plant.
To prepare for, cuttings are cut from annual, fruiting vines only after the dormant phase begins.
Cuttings are stored all winter (in winter): at home in the refrigerator, in the cellar, in a special storage.
In late February-mid-March, when the growth phase begins, the shanks germinate. Any suitable method is used for this.
Cuttings can be rooted (planted) in jars and pots, in a substrate, in a damp cloth. Each method of germinating seedlings has its own advantages and disadvantages.

How to do spring grafting grapes can be recognized.

Thanks to hard work specialists, today it is possible to grow grapes in any climatic conditions. The main thing is to choose the right variety. There are vineyards that can withstand temperatures as low as -30 ° C.

But buying a shrub comes with a number of nuances. It is not always possible to find a vineyard of the desired variety. In addition, there is always a possibility that a completely different seedling will be sold under the guise of one variety, and their cost today is far from budgetary. Getting a stalk is much easier. Consider how to make rooting of grape cuttings yourself.

Cuttings are harvested after the harvest has been harvested and the leaves have begun to fly around. Procurement terms are determined planting material the timing of the onset of the first frost on the ground. This is due to the fact that the cuttings must have live and healthy buds. At the first frost, the buds on grape shoots die. Accordingly, such blanks cannot be used for growing a vineyard. It is advisable to start harvesting cuttings in the second half of September, if it comes O early varieties grapes, and at the beginning of October, if we are talking about late ones.

You should not harvest cuttings from the first shrub that comes across. It is necessary to determine the variety that gave the greatest amount of harvest in the season and is not susceptible to any diseases.

A part of an unripe shoot cannot be used as a cutting. You need a vine that is not green, but Brown color... Most suitable material for harvesting cuttings, there will be a shoot, the diameter of which varies from 8 to 10 mm, and the length of 1 is from 20 to 40 cm, while the number of internodes should not exceed 8 or less than 4. No damage to the bark should be observed along the entire length of the cuttings, including mechanical ... It is desirable that the selected part of the shoot is straight.

You should not choose varieties based on their characteristics. First of all, it is worth paying attention to which varieties of vineyards give a good result in a particular region of the country and, at the same time, are not particularly demanding in care.

Preparing cuttings for the winter

Rooting grape cuttings in winter is not possible due to the too low temperature, therefore, during winter period you need to save the planting material in such a way that it remains alive. This is not difficult to do if you follow 5 simple rules after pruning.

Immediately after pruning, it is important to place the cuttings in a container of water and leave for 24 hours.
After a day, place the planting material in a potassium permanganate solution for 30 minutes. This treatment is needed for disinfection. An alternative to a solution of potassium permanganate can be a solution of vitriol.
After the time has elapsed, take out the cuttings and put on dry towel or paper napkins. Remove excess moisture carefully paper towels and leave the cuttings to dry completely.
Wrap dry cuttings in a previously prepared foil and gently bandage with a soft piece of cloth. If it is too tight to do this, then the bark of the seedlings can be damaged at the dressing site.
In order not to confuse the varieties of the vineyard in the spring, hang a tag on all packed cuttings. In addition to the name of the variety, the date of packaging should be indicated on the tag.

All these procedures are easy to perform at home. This completes the preparation of grape cuttings for rooting. It remains to wait for spring and start planting them.

So that the planting material does not die during winter storage, it is necessary to provide it with a certain temperature regime. For grape cuttings, the most comfortable temperature is 3 ° C. Deviations of 1-2 ° C are allowed. Accordingly, the most suitable place for storing cuttings there is a refrigerator in which you can set the temperature to a certain mark. A loggia or cellar is also suitable for storing planting material.

Features of storing cuttings in winter

Be sure to check the condition of the cuttings at least once every 30 days. If they dry out, then they must be unpacked, repeat all the steps that were done before packing, and repackaged. If mold appears on the bark of the blanks, then the affected areas must be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Alternatively, you can store the cuttings in the ground in winter. They are buried to a height not exceeding 0.4 m.But in regions with severe winters, this method is not applicable. Most of the planting material usually perishes.

Preparation for rooting

Before rooting grape cuttings, you need to disinfect them and prepare them in a certain way. For disinfection, a solution of potassium permanganate is used, after which the planting material is washed. You need to perform these actions in a warm room.

After disinfection, the cutting is cut from the bottom. The straight cut line must be at least 5 mm below extreme point and no more than 20 mm below it. You also need to cut the cutting over the upper bud, but in this case, make an oblique cut. The stalk prepared in this way is placed in a stimulant, which can be purchased in a specialized store, for 48 hours. An alternative to the stimulants offered in stores can be a solution of natural honey or aloe juice. To prepare the solution, you will need 1 tbsp. l. honey or aloe juice and 10 liters of water. The upper cut is treated with garden pitch.

Before you root grape cuttings in the soil, you need to take care of the formation of the root system. In its absence, the leaves will not have enough substances for normal functioning, which will lead to their death, therefore, after disinfection and trimming of the planting material, the bark is slightly incised along the cutting below the last internode. This should be done with a clean knife, so as not to infect. After making the incisions, sprinkle them with heterouaxin.

If we are talking about varieties, the rooting of which leaves much to be desired, it is advisable to rub heterouaxin into the cuts made with a knife.

Kilchevanie

To speed up the formation of the root system, you can carry out a process called kilchevanie. It is easy to do at home. We'll need a couple of plastic bottles, a clean rag, a diaper, a container (preferably a box or box), and sawdust.

We take a pre-prepared cutting and wrap its lower part in a rag, which we pre-moisten warm water... We wrap the upper part of the cutting with a diaper.
We fill one bottle with water, the temperature of which is 28-30 ° С, and in the other we collect water and place it in the freezer until it freezes completely.
We put a bottle of warm water in a box on one side, and ice on the other. We put the cuttings on top of the bottles so that their lower part is located on the bottle with warm water. The top, respectively, should be located on the ice bottle.
We fill the cuttings with sawdust. We cover the box.

Kilchevay is performed for 3 days. Accordingly, during all this time, you will have to change the bottles of ice and warm water several times in order to maintain the desired temperature. After the specified period, root tubercles and an annular bead should form on the cuttings white... This planting material is ready for further rooting.

The final stage of rooting

Today, there are many options for rooting grape cuttings at home. We will look at three methods that are especially popular:

in containers with water;
"on the wardrobe";
in the filler.

This is not to say that some of the methods are better, and some are worse, so we will consider each of them separately.

Rooting in containers with water

This method is called P.P. Radchevsky in honor of the professor who invented it. For rooting cuttings according to this method, you will need either water obtained from snow, or collected from rain, either melted or boiled. Running water taking is not recommended. In an extreme case, it is defended. You will also need containers in which you can place the cuttings. Wide-necked glass jars are best.

Pour water into glass containers. It is enough to pour a layer of water, the thickness of which is 3 cm. Then we place the cuttings in the container. Do not put more than 10 pieces in one container. We put containers with cuttings on the windowsill, which is heated by the sun. It is advisable to put the containers on low stands and cover the tops of the cuttings together with the containers with plastic bags: this will maintain the required level of humidity.

After 1.5-2 weeks, the shoots will begin to grow, and the roots will grow in parallel. This method is good in that you can save the shoots on the cuttings, but you should not grow more than one: this will take away a lot of nutrients from the seedling, and there will be no nutrients left for the development of the root system. You need to break off the one that is stronger.

After the roots appear, we move the cutting into the ground. Planting a seedling is done very carefully. It is very important not to break off the roots.

Rooting "on the closet"

This method is easier to implement than the previous one. Let's consider how to properly root grape cuttings "on the closet". You will need cloth, water and film. First of all, we moisten the fabric with water, then we wrap the lower part of the previously prepared grape cuttings in the fabric. In this case, the upper part of each cutting should remain free.

At the next stage, we wrap the lower part of each cutting in a film, which should end on the same level with the fabric. The tops are still free. It remains to place the cuttings on the cabinet. However, you can put them on any tall furniture or shelf close to the ceiling. It is necessary to arrange the cuttings so that light falls on their tops, and the lower part is constantly hidden from light sources.

Ideally, after 2 weeks, the cuttings should appear root system... In extreme cases, the roots will appear after 25 days. The last step is planting cuttings.

Rooting in filler

Sawdust prepared in a certain way is used as a filler. In addition to sawdust, we need boiling water. We put sawdust in the container, fill them with boiling water so that it covers the contents of the container. We leave the sawdust until it cools completely, then remove excess water with our hands or using improvised means.

In a previously prepared container, the height of which should exceed the height of the grape cuttings, we put a few centimeters of sawdust, then we plant the cuttings in them. They need to be positioned so that the kidneys are directed upward. Carefully lay out another layer of sawdust. It remains to close the container and cuttings with foil.

With this method of rooting, you need to moisten the filler 2-3 times a week. After 14 days, roots should appear on the planting material. When the root system appears, the cuttings are transferred into a container, the filler of which is a mixture of earth, sand and humus. As soon as they come auspicious days, transfer the cuttings to open ground. Landing takes place, as a rule, at the beginning of summer.

It's all possible ways rooting grape cuttings at home. It is important to strictly follow all the above recommendations and remember that the rooting of planting material begins with the choice of a shoot to obtain a cutting. It is also worth noting that these methods are suitable for rooting a small number of cuttings. If we are talking about an industrial scale, then other methods are used.

Rooting of one-eyed cuttings and green cuttings

Separately, it should be said about the rooting of one-eyed cuttings. It is much easier to work with such planting material due to its small size. It is convenient to put such seedlings in containers or jars. In addition, if we are talking about purchased material, and 2 or 3-eye seedlings are sold, then cutting them into 2 parts, it turns out to save money.

But in order for the planting material to take root well, it should be prepared a little differently than a three-eyed cutting. If in the latter case, when performing the lower cut, we practically do not leave hemp, then when working with one-eyed material, it should be left long enough. This will greatly increase the chances of the event being successful. Further, the planting material should be rooted in water. We put the handle in a jar and cover it with a plastic bag.

It is also worth noting that you can propagate grapes with green cuttings. This is done in the summer, cutting green cuttings from the bush so as not to disturb its structure, and placing them in water until roots appear. In the summer, it is advisable to put cuttings in rainwater... This method helps to obtain a large amount of planting material in one season.

Specific moments

You can prepare cuttings both in autumn and spring, but autumn is considered more the right time, since moisture has not yet left the shoots. In spring, the shoots are drier, which negatively affects the rooting process. If, after all, you decide to cook the cuttings in the spring, then after pruning, soak them in water for at least 72 hours. During this time, the structure of the shoot tissue will be restored. Another disadvantage of harvesting cuttings in spring is the risk of getting planting material with frozen buds.

It also happens that grape cuttings do not root at all or the process is very slow. There may be several reasons for this. First of all, you need to properly store grape cuttings, then their rooting will take place without problems. In addition to the temperature regime, planting material should be provided normal level humidity. Excessive moisture can cause mold to grow on the cuttings. If the air is too dry, then a lot of moisture will leave the cuttings.

It is also worth making a reservation about the timing of rooting of cuttings. Many, when talking about when to root cuttings of grape bushes, consider February. But when choosing a month to start rooting, you need to take into account the peculiarities of the climate in a particular region. If the cold is kept until spring, then you should start rooting in March. And gardeners who are going to root cuttings directly in the ground should start rooting at least in the middle of spring. This is due to the fact that the cuttings should be planted in a heated soil.

Conclusion

We looked at how to root a grape cut at home. This can be done in 3 ways. And do not forget that rooted grape cuttings require careful maintenance, otherwise all the work done will go down the drain.

It is also worth considering that there are grape varieties that are optimal for propagation by cuttings. This is, for example, a parthenocissus or, as the people call it, girlish grapes... Viorica is also suitable for propagation by cuttings.

Every gardener at least once in his life tried to propagate grapes from cuttings at home. To germinate grape cuttings at home, you do not need special skills. Everyone can grow their own seedlings.

- A large number of seedlings can be grown from cuttings;

- you can use, and not throw away shoots after autumn pruning;

- cuttings can be found from friends, exchange the desired varieties, it is easy to send by mail;

- to purchase grape cuttings is much cheaper in comparison with the cost of ready-made seedlings;

- cuttings rooted at home are already prepared for planting and will quickly take root in a permanent place.

Why do you need to germinate cuttings

From the moment the vine ripens and the leaves fall off, the grapes "fall asleep" - they enter a state of forced dormancy, which lasts 2–2.5 months. Next, the grapes are preparing for the spring awakening.

Cuttings are already able to root and grow from February. There is still snow outside the window, and the roots are already growing in the house and the buds are turning green. This means that the vegetation of the shoots will begin three to four months earlier. By the time of planting in open ground, we receive already prepared rooted seedlings.

Having germinated the cuttings in advance, we give them an excellent start in development. Bushes are being formed at an accelerated rate. They will be better prepared for winter and will start yielding earlier.

Harvesting cuttings

Cuttings of grapes, or shanks, are cut from the bushes in the fall in front of the shelter. At this time, the foliage in the vineyard, as a rule, has already flown around. The vine is ripe and has accumulated nutrients for germination.

We choose high-quality cuttings for propagation:

- The shanks are cut from healthy and strong bushes.

- The most suitable vines are fruit vines. Not stepchildren and not fattening shoots.

— Best cuttings obtained from the middle part of the shoot. Cuttings with a heel - a piece of a two-year shoot are also suitable.

- In the upper part of the bush, the cuttings received more sun and matured better.

- The diameter of the shoots is not thinner than a pencil, seven to ten millimeters.

- We discard cuttings with blackened bark, rot spots, cracks, and also flat ones. Shoots with short internodes are undesirable.

- We examine the sections - they must be healthy.

Storing cuttings

The cut vines are labeled and stored for winter. Convenient and reliable labels made of foil strips from aluminum cans, with an embossed grade name. Storage options for cuttings:

Preparing cuttings for germination

An important point is the preparation of cuttings for germination.

At the beginning of February, the planting material is taken out of storage and examined. We discard everything that is dried up and rotten.
We soak the cuttings for two days in clean, preferably snowy water to saturate the tissues with moisture. We change the water every day.
To disinfect the cuttings, they are soaked for another day in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
Now the cuttings are placed with their lower ends in a solution of a stimulant - heteroauxin or epin for a day. Lovers folk remedies use a solution of honey (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), or diluted in a ratio of 1: 2 aloe juice.
Long vines are cut into segments of 2-3 buds. You can cut 3-5 buds and then plant the seedlings deeper. The upper cut is made even, 1–2 cm above the knot. The lower cut is led obliquely under the knot, in the direction of the eye.
Another secret to successful germination is furrowing cuttings. We scratch the lower ends of our sticks together with the knot with different sides a few centimeters in length. Callus, a white sugary tissue from which roots will begin to grow, will eventually appear in the cuts. These cuttings form more active roots.

How to germinate cuttings at home

Awakening cuttings two important conditions- warmth and moisture. Grapes have one feature: first, the buds awaken, shoots begin to grow, and only then the roots germinate. To eliminate this imbalance, the grapes need to create conditions under which the temperature in the zone of root formation will be higher than in the area of the tops.

Gardeners use different ways home germination of cuttings. The most popular of them are:

- stratification in water;

- kilchevoy.

Germinating cuttings in water

Germinating grape cuttings in water is a very simple and affordable way of stratification. It is ideal for aspiring wine growers.

We put prepared cuttings of 10-12 pieces in glass jars. You can pull cling film over the cans, pierce it and insert the shanks.
If possible, remove the lower kidney. If this is not done, the shoot from the lower bud can overtake the upper shoots in development.
Pour no more than 2-3 centimeters of water to the bottom. Why not more? Grape roots form most rapidly at the border of water and air. These are exactly the places that we scratched in advance.
We put the cans on a warm sunny windowsill. If there is no sun at all, artificial lighting will do.
We maintain the water level at a constant level, top up as needed.
We regularly change the water to clean. If bacteria appear in it, the water becomes cloudy. Before the roots appear, the water is changed at least once every 3 days, and, if necessary, daily.
The most caring gardeners put a layer of cotton wool 2-3 centimeters thick on the bottom, and a layer of gauze or a net on top so that the shanks do not grow into the cotton wool. The cotton wool is filled with water in such a way that it does not cover the entire substrate, but is constantly wet.

With this method of germinating grapes in water, it is important to maintain the correct temperature regime. It's cool on the window, shoots do not germinate too quickly. If the window sill warms up well from the battery, the future roots are provided with the necessary conditions. If it is cold, it makes sense to put a heat-insulating material. It is better not to allow the water to overheat above 26 ° C - the likelihood of decay is increased.

After about 10-12 days, the buds of the grapes begin to sprout. A week later, the roots will appear. If the roots have already grown to 2–3 centimeters, the cuttings can be planted in 1 liter containers with soil and grown on the window like seedlings.

Germination in the substrate

For germination of cuttings in the substrate, a special technique is used - kilcheva. The point of kilchevating is to increase the temperature in the area of callus growth and root germination. In this case, the development of roots is accelerated relative to shoots and leaves.

Advanced gardeners make intricate electric heaters with automatic heating. At home, a kilchevator can be made from an ordinary plastic bottle.

How to make a kilchevator:

We take a plastic bottle, cut off the neck.
We pierce the bottom drain holes, fill in the drainage.
We fall asleep with a loose moist substrate - a mixture of soil, sand and weathered sawdust.
We insert a stalk into the substrate with a slight slope so that the eye remaining above the soil level looks up.
Cover the handle with a plastic cup.
We put the kilchevator in a warm place. The temperature in the kilchevator is 20-25 ° С.
Water carefully, preferably from a pallet.
When the shoot appears, the glass is gradually removed.

In a kilchevator, seedlings can grow until they are planted in a permanent place. During this time, the root mass grows in the bottle, clearly visible through the transparent walls. Our goal has been achieved - we have received a healthy seedling suitable for planting.

Propagating grapes by cuttings at home is probably the most popular way to propagate grapes. Its popularity is due to its seeming simplicity.

In other words, many summer residents use it, following the rule: "I'll plant it, you see, something will work out." And why not try it, if the material for cuttings is at hand, and even when pruning grapes, you still need to put it somewhere. But not everything is so simple.

The correct harvesting of cuttings is half, if not more, of the success in the endeavor.

Conventionally, the preparation of cuttings can be divided into 3 important processes:

cutting cuttings;
storage of planting material;
preparation for rooting.

Cutting cuttings

Cutting cuttings is best done in the fall, after falling off vine all leaves, but before the onset of frost. Optimal timing the second half of November and the beginning of December are considered - during this period the vine is already ready for winter dormancy, therefore, the nutrients in the cut cuttings are better stored, and low temperatures they tolerate better.

It is better to use for the preparation of shanks fruit branches- in this case, the chances of the final successful result will be much higher. For cuttings, you need to take straight (or at least relatively straight) sections of the vine. The cuttings should be long enough: the recommendations are reduced to the length of the shank of 50-70 cm, but experienced growers recommend cutting the shafts 120-140 cm long.

Chubuku is best harvested from the middle of a fruiting vine. Each stem should have at least 3-4 living buds and 6-8 internodes. Do not bother harvesting cuttings that are too thick or too thick - both of them do not take root well. Chubuki from 0.75 to 1 cm thick are considered optimal.

In addition to the timing of procurement, the length and thickness of the cuttings, of great importance is also right choice uterine bush. Bushes affected by diseases or pests with damaged or deformed vines are not suitable for harvesting grape cuttings.

Storing cuttings

Before laying the cut cuttings for storage, they should be disinfected for half an hour in a 5% solution. copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. Then the cuttings are tied into small bundles - 8-10 pcs. If the cuttings are cut with different varieties, then the name of the variety is attached to each such bundle. Then each bundle is wrapped in a damp cloth, then plastic wrap and sent for winter storage.

For a small number of cuttings ideal place storage will be a refrigerator (but not a freezer). If you plan to plant a large vineyard, then it is better to store the prepared cuttings in the cellar by digging them into wet sand, but you need to constantly monitor the moisture content of the sand, periodically moistening it. Some gardeners prefer to store cuttings by burying them in the ground for the winter.

When stored in the refrigerator and cellar, you need to periodically check their condition and, if necessary, adjust the humidity or lower the storage temperature. Otherwise, the buds on the cuttings may dry out or develop in advance, and in both cases all the work on the preparation and storage of the shanks will go down the drain.

Spring preparation for rooting

Depending on the weather, in late winter or early spring, harvested cuttings wake up from hibernation. First, the removed cuttings are checked for "freshness": both edges of the cuttings are cut by 1-3 cm with a pruning shears.

If the wood in the place of the fresh cut turns out to be light green, and a drop of water protrudes on it, then the cutting is well preserved and can be planted for rooting.

If the cut site remains light brown and no signs of moisture are visible, then the cutting is most likely to die. You can try to make a second cut, stepping back from the edge of 5-8 cm, but the result is rarely encouraging. If, even without a new incision, water appears at the end of the cutting, and black blotches are visible on the surface of the fresh cut, then the cutting is rotten.

Cuttings that have safely undergone storage are first soaked in warm water for 2 days, periodically, 1-2 times a day, changing it. It is best to use melt water for soaking; you can take water from a well. Tap water it is not suitable for soaking, since chlorine-containing agents are used to clean it.

For greater efficiency, you can add a little honey or aloe juice to the water at the rate of: a tablespoon to a bucket of water. After soaking, the roots are placed for another 12-18 hours in special stimulants that promote the rapid formation of roots, for example, root.

To make the effect of root-stimulating drugs more effective, 3-4 shallow cuts 1.5-2 cm in length are made with a sharp knife at the lower end of the cutting (the one that will directly be in the stimulator).

Germinating grape cuttings for beginners

This process can be done in several ways. The easiest to perform are sprouting in cups and bottles. Also for germination, you can use plastic bags, buckets, wooden boxes, but the germination technology in general outline is similar.

Germination in cups

Three small holes are made in the bottom of a large plastic cup using an awl or the tip of a knife. On the perforated bottom, pour 2-2.5 cm of a mixture of leaf humus and sod land.

The mixture is prepared in a 1: 1 ratio. Then they take a smaller plastic glass, cut off the bottom of it and place it in the center of the large glass. The space between the walls of the glasses is filled with earth, it is compacted and watered, after which the space inside the smaller glass is rinsed river sand... The whole structure is poured over with water again, and then the smaller glass is removed.

A 4-5 cm hole is made in the center of the sand with a wooden stick and the lower end of the grape cutting is inserted into it, and again poured with water. A plastic bottle with a cut bottom is put on top of the planted stalk. The sand must be kept moist until 4-5 leaves appear on the handle. After that, the bottle can be removed from the handle.

Germination at home in a plastic bottle

Several holes are made in the bottom of a two-liter plastic bottle, and the neck is completely cut off. A small drainage layer is poured at the bottom, and 5-6 cm of soil mixture on top. The lower edge of the cutting is stuck into this mixture.

This must be done with jewelry: the upper peephole on the handle should be flush with the cut of the bottle. The space remaining in the bottle is covered with steamed sawdust and a plastic cup is put on top of the bottle. When the upper shoot develops so much that it becomes difficult to fit into plastic cup, it is being filmed.

In both cases, a pallet is used for watering: water is poured into it and a container with a planted shank is placed on it for 15-20 minutes. The secret to successful germination is to ensure that the part of the cuttings that needs to be rooted is warmer and comfortable conditions than the part where the kidneys will develop.

Propagating grapes by cuttings is really easy if you know exactly what and how to do it. But at the same time, it requires attention and care at every stage.

To do this, it is better to germinate a plant of a structure with planted cuttings on the windowsill, but it is imperative that the upper peephole "look" in the direction opposite to the window. Germination usually takes about 3 weeks.

Planting cuttings in open ground

The final step in growing grapes from cuttings is planting rooted cuttings in open ground. Landing is carried out in the second half of May, when the threat of severe night frosts has passed.

First, a planting hole is dug for each cutting. At its bottom with a wooden stake or an iron crowbar, a recess with a diameter of 10-12 cm is made in the ground. The root system of the cutting is installed in this hole, covered with earth, compacted and abundantly watered, spending about 20 liters of water on watering one hole.

When the water is completely absorbed, soil is poured into the planting pit just below the level of the developed upper peephole. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that this peephole should be located in the planting hole 5-7 cm below the soil level. At the same time, a wooden or metal stake is driven into the bottom of the planting pit, which will serve as a support for the developing grape bush.

Propagation by green cuttings

Propagation of grapes with green cuttings is best done in mid-June. For propagation, 2 or 3 ocellular cuttings are cut. They are harvested from stepchildren or young shoots. At the bottom, the stalk is cut 4-5 cm below the node, at the top - 1.5-2 cm above the eye.

The cut cuttings are placed in a bowl of water (rainwater or well water, but not tap water). While the cuttings are soaking, several holes are made in the bottom of the 5 liter plastic bottle, and its top is completely cut off.

For planting, a mixture of deciduous compost and sod land is prepared, mixed in equal proportions. To make the mixture looser and more "airy", it is better to take the soil for the mixture from molehills, if possible.

The prepared jar is filled with potting soil. The mixture is poured abundantly and carefully compacted, for which the bottle is gently shaken several times and tapped with its bottom on a hard surface.

An important point: at the top of the can must first be strengthened wooden frame, deepening several rails into the bottle and fixing them. Then prepares for landing green stalk... In a two-eyed cutting, the lower leaflet is removed, and the upper leaf is left. In a three-eyed one, the lower leaf is also removed, and half of the middle and upper leaves are cut off to reduce the area of moisture evaporation.

They plant 3-4 cuttings in one bottle, deepening them into the soil by 5-6 cm.After that, in advance installed frame put on and tightly fasten a cellophane bag on the top of the bottle. The erected structure with planted cuttings is placed on the sill of the south window, and remains for women until rooting.

If everything is done correctly, then in the first 10-12 days no additional action is required. Then you need regular - once a week - watering and airing. Rooting lasts 5-6 weeks, after which the rooted green cuttings are planted in open ground using the same technology as the woody ones, and by October they have time to grow up to 40 cm in length.

Propagating grapes by cuttings is really easy if you know exactly what and how to do at each process of their rooting. But at the same time, you need to understand that any mistake at any of the stages can cause failure. Therefore, you need to approach each stage responsibly and never rely on "chance".