Make a knife yourself from a saw. Homemade knife from a saw for metal
A hand-made knife is one of the first tools that a person created on his own. And although over time everyone had the opportunity to buy at least a dozen knives, some craftsmen still continue to create them themselves. An unnecessary, broken saw can also be converted into a convenient and sharp knife.
Peculiarities
A DIY knife has many advantages.
- It will be much stronger and better quality than an inexpensive knife bought from a Chinese website or hardware store.
- The product can be made "for yourself", that is, so that the handle fits easily in the hand, and the blade is easy to handle.
- You can add some personality to the product by making its handle out of an unusual material, such as polycarbonate or some precious wood like alder. Decors applied by hand on the handle will make it unique.
And also from one canvas, you can make several blades at once, which will be used for different purposes.
Tools and materials
Very often, rapid steel is used as a base for the manufacture of knives. This can be a power saw blade. And you can also use steel from a band saw and a two-handed saw. Knives made from a chainsaw chain are quite strong. In any case, the knife will turn out to be of high quality, durable and will last a long time. And the old saw will take on a new life. To make a knife from an old frame saw, or a rapid saw, or any other base, you need to have the following tools on hand:
- drill (it is better to take an electric one);
- regular ruler;
- medium hammer;
- Bulgarian;
- turning machine;
- different files;
- several bars for sharpening;
- several types of sandpaper;
- black marker;
- a small bucket of water;
- some copper wire;
- core.
And also it is necessary to select materials for the manufacture of the knife handle. For this part of the future knife, you can use different blanks: from wood, for example, alder or oak; metal, such as bronze or copper; as well as from organic glass of your favorite color. In addition, one must remember that the handle must be solid, without any pricks or cracks: otherwise it will be inconvenient to use the knife.
Manufacturing process
Using the listed materials, as well as a metal knife, you can make a good quality homemade knife at home. Making a knife with your own hands can be divided into several stages. First you need to make a drawing, choose a material for making a knife. The next step is to create a knife layout and decorate the handle.
Making a layout
To start this stage, you need to determine what shape the finished knife will be. It is important to determine both the length of the blade and what its handle will be. In addition, you need to know exactly for what needs the knife will be used: for hunting or for woodcarving, cooking or cutting meat. A simple kitchen knife is an order of magnitude thinner than a durable hunting knife. Next, you need to make a layout from very thin plywood or thick cardboard. When making a layout, you must follow simple rules.
- Avoid making right angles as this can damage the blade itself.
- The shape itself must be chosen so that it corresponds to the purpose of the knife. For example, to work with wood, make a narrow and thin knife, for the kitchen - a little wider, and for household needs - strong, with a wide blade. Since a knife is made from a hand or any other saw, it is important that its size does not exceed the length of the blade.
And also be sure to consider that a knife can be considered a melee weapon. Therefore, when making a layout, it is necessary to choose the correct dimensions: storage of cold steel will be considered a criminal offense. Therefore, the parameters of the product should be as follows:
- blade thickness should not be more than 2.5 mm;
- in this case, the length should also not be more than 8–9 cm;
- the knife handle itself must be with a limiter.
When the layout is completely ready, you can apply the layout to the saw blade and outline it using a marker of any color.
Making a knife
When all the lines are drawn with a marker, it is necessary to scratch out all the contours on top of them with a core, so that they do not erase during work. Next, you need to take a grinder, put a disc on it for metal and use it to cut out a drawn knife. However, at the same time it is necessary to leave at the edges 2-3 mm along the entire length of the contour for a reserve. This is necessary in order to then remove the metal burnt by the grinder. If there is no such tool at home, you can use a regular hammer, as well as a chisel or a metal saw. When the blade is completely cut, you can start turning it. To do this, you can use files of different sizes.
After that, the blade must be processed using a grinder. So that it does not overheat at the same time, the knife must be lowered at some intervals into a bucket of water until the blade has completely cooled. When the blade is completely ready, you need to pay attention to the fact that all the curves are even. If, nevertheless, there are some errors, they can be corrected with a fine file. After that, you need to remove all the resulting burrs using sandpaper of any size.
Now it's time to start making a pen. To create it, you can use both wood and other materials that are at hand. The easiest way to make a handle is from wood. You need to take a solid, solid piece of this material. You need to make a longitudinal cut in it, and then a few more holes for the nuts. Then you need to attach a handle on the knife shank. Further, holes must also be made on the blade, and then the handle itself must be fixed. This can be done with glue or regular rivets or small bolts and nuts. If bolts are used, they must be completely driven into the wood and then filled with epoxy glue. If plastic is used instead of wood, the handle will consist of two symmetrical overlays, which are attached with glue or the same rivets. In addition, if you wish, you can decorate the handle with drawings. When the knife is completely ready, it must be additionally sharpened, and also given smoothness.
You can also make a knife from a chainsaw chain, because it is made of a good and dense alloy which can withstand both high temperature and friction. To make such a knife, you need to take a rather heavy anvil, as well as a small barbecue and firewood or coal. To make it easier to hold the blade in your hands, you can use special tongs, which are used by blacksmiths. Before work, you should put on special clothing, as well as a protective mask, and melt the brazier. When the fire flares up well, you need to put a piece of chain there. The knife must be solid, that is, its handle will also be made of a chain. It is important to take this into account when estimating the dimensions of the future product. The workpiece must warm up to the required temperature, that is, become bright red. In this state, it will be possible to forge a knife of the desired shape from it.
To do this, you need to put the workpiece on the anvil and flatten it in a few strokes so that it remains solid. After that, periodically heating the flattened workpiece, you need to give it the shape of a knife. Then it must be well polished and also sharpened. Next, you need to do the hardening of the knife. It must be heated again well, and then immediately immersed in cool water. Then, with the help of acid, as well as an engraving machine, you can make a complete finish, as well as polish. At the end of the work, the finished knife must be thoroughly washed in slightly warmed soapy water. Immediately after that, it can be used for its intended purpose.
You can make a very good knife at home. The product will turn out to be reliable, so it can be used for any purpose. So that in the process of making a knife no trouble happens, and it itself turns out to be strong and durable, you need to adhere to some rules when working.
- All metal blanks must be flat and free from damage. To do this, you need to knock well, as well as inspect them. If the part is solid, then it should make a very sonorous sound. A "defective" knife in such a situation makes a dull sound.
- When cutting and sharpening a knife, you need to try not to overheat the iron. Indeed, as a result of this, it can turn out to be quite fragile. To prevent this from happening, you must constantly dip it into a bucket of cold water. The temperature drop will make the blade several times stronger, that is, it will harden it.
- If the knife is made from a factory saw, then it is necessary to take into account the fact that it has passed the hardening stage at the factory, so there is no need to work with the material additionally.
- The blade of the knife should always be smooth, without corners. And the shank should not be too thin, because it is in this place that most of the load falls. Therefore, it must be made stronger.
- To drill holes in the shank of the knife, you need to use stronger drills, with a victorious tip, since it will be very difficult to do this with ordinary ones, because the saw is made of a fairly strong material.
- During the drilling process, be sure to add a little oil to the place where the rivets will be. This must be done to prevent overheating of the drills.
HighMan 13-10-2012 11:37
Hello gentlemen!
I had several old, nowhere good, one-handed saws on wood (hacksaws) lying around in my dacha. They are, as it were, not subject to revival, since they were once "sharpened" by surprisingly crooked hands. So I thought, couldn’t it be possible to give this murdered instrument a second life, as kitchen workers? Yes, they corrode darkly and are now in a terrible state, but it is probably possible to clean them up. In the kitchen, if they cut well, then the wife will take good care of them, therefore, low-corrosion resistance will not manifest itself so much.
But I don’t know what kind of steel was used for these saws. Some kind of quick cutter? If you put up with increased rustiness, will the knives come out normal? Those. how will such knives keep their sharpness?
If, nevertheless, this steel is good for knives, then please tell us how to cut the saw blade into the required strips, so that not to "let go" of the steel? I intend to cut with a grinder, but there is a crazy heating in the place of the cut, therefore the steel will be "released". So I would like knowledgeable people to advise how to cut correctly, so as not to ruin the piece of iron?
Now I will answer the question: why I do not want to restore these saws, but convert them into knives. It's simple ... Imagine the teeth of a circular saw ... Yes, that's exactly what they became! Moreover, not all of the teeth have survived. And the last thing: this spring I bought a Zubr hacksaw for 300 rubles, I used it all summer and it continues to cut normally. When it gets dull, I’ll buy a new one, since the price implies that it’s easier not to sharpen, but to buy a new one.
DokVV 13-10-2012 11:42
very common material. Yes, it rusts, dulls quickly, bends. But nevertheless, in our village, relatives have been serving for 15 years already. Refined to the state of an awl and remain favorite knives. Why? Yes, because they are thin and cut even shitty chiseled. And chiseled on a coarse abrasive saw quite vigorously and for a long time.
What kind of steel? a xs. Some kind of "U" I think the average hardness is 50 units. Saw with a grinder with a thin disc 0.8-1mm. Cut through faster than let go.
HighMan 13-10-2012 12:14
quote: Yes, it rusts, quickly dulls, bends.
quote: What kind of steel? a xs. Some kind of "U" I think the average hardness of 50 units.
Damn it ... And out of stupidity I thought that there was steel with high hardness ...
DokVV 13-10-2012 13:27
No. you can try it yourself. Has a permanent deformation during bending. If the hacksaws had a very high hardness, they would burst 2 times a day.
And in general, the entire sawing tool for wood has a low hardness. blades for band saws, for pendulum saws on sawmills, which is also about 50 +/-
Vladimir 972 13-10-2012 13:38
They drove me something like a circular so it turned out to be 42-47 units of hardness. I didn't really like the knife. They advised her to make hoes for weeding the beds, they say hurt yourself.
Sincerely.
DokVV 13-10-2012 14:52
I somehow did it from the disk from the seeder (?). The extreme cut-out strip was still nicho. tolerant. And the second one, closer to the edge, was cut out, with my hands bent ... you see, zone hardening.
and1111 13-10-2012 15:27
I did pieces of heels. they must be sharpened before each use, then they are cut as needed. you can simply heat up the zone, then more or less, but sharpening is troublesome. but in terms of hardness, so there and 40, IMHO, will not be. even better sharpening is obtained after exposure to a strong salt solution, at least 20-30. then it can be sharpened and sharper and hold much longer, it has been checked repeatedly. the method is taken from the book "handicraftsman's guide".
C_Cat 13-10-2012 21:42
quote: I had several old, nowhere good, one-handed wood saws (hacksaws) lying around in my dacha. They are, as it were, not subject to revival, since they were once "sharpened" by surprisingly crooked hands.
A grinder from any "not suitable" can make a decent file with sharpening in half an hour. Previously, he sharpened in the old fashioned way with a triangular file, and after buying a grinder, he mastered sharpening with a cutting disc. If you wish, you can cut any teeth with any pitch, just make a marking along the blade with a marker.
And for kitchen workers, you can also use stainless steel construction spatulas of a suitable size.
Chump 14-10-2012 14:44
I have a kitchen cooker (my first knife) from a power saw, I agree, it rusts, requires constant care, but does its job.
quote: And for kitchen workers, you can also use stainless steel construction spatulas of a suitable size.
really !!! thanks!
Va-78 14-10-2012 15:03
Soviet all-forged hacksaws, knife material is definitely suitable.
To cut better, you need to lower the wedge a little towards the RK.
Over time, the knife completely darkens, and then he already knows what will become. Can of course be etched in advance for aesthetics.
quote: Has permanent deformation during bending
The hacksaw bends 45g without deformation. - Do you need more with this thickness?
vvik 14-10-2012 15:08
carbon in the kitchen, I never for myself. Few disadvantages are listed above so it also absorbs odors. Then the cake smells like onions and other delights ...
Who does not believe - just let such a knife heat up a little with a lighter ...
HighMan 15-10-2012 16:43
I thought that I had a high firmness, as I wrote above. If the hardness is low, then there is no use from it! If the hardness is around 50, then it's easier to take a shitty Tramontina, the price tag is quite divine. In terms of hardness, it will not be worse, so also full-fledged stainless steel. Oh, yes ... Shit does not absorb foreign smells either.
It turns out that the hacksaw is in the trash.
Nix 15-10-2012 17:05
quote: It turns out that the hacksaw is in the trash.
I used to have one in the butchering of livestock - it’s right, which is what is needed there, in general.
paradox2010 15-10-2012 18:24
I made a kitchen wagon out of a hacksaw, now they mostly use it at home, after a week of use it has darkened, it stopped stinking when cutting, sharpening with bars shitty gives a soap cut, therefore I use musat, an extremely aggressive cut gives
and1111 15-10-2012 18:42
quote: so she also absorbs smells.
not all carbon absorbs. it happens that one comes across such that the food smells like iron. after etching, all odors disappear. there were a couple of two-handed saws, I tried to do it. one zashibis, completely neutral in smell, and from the second carried, I will not save. in a word, a lottery.
chief 15-10-2012 18:46
Two "Opinels" have taken root in the kitchen - carbon and stainless steel. Nerzha - "beautiful", carbon - "worker".
Carbon cuts MUCH longer, and, most importantly, more aggressive than stainless. I rule both on the same fine musat.
bodigard 17-10-2012 10:47
on the subject, quite suitable material for small kitchens, why small? so the thickness of the hacksaw is not conducive to making a long chef out of it
in the kitchen itself there are 3 knives from a saw, though from a Soviet-era sawmill (~ 3mm thick for her), they cut it with a bang, I correct it once every 2-3 months on a piece of fine sandpaper, despite the fact that we use them with my wife every day, by the smell HZ, did not notice, today I will try to heat it up with a lighter and smell
the only thing is that everything has become gray-gray, and you still can't throw them in the sink with dirty dishes for the night
I still have it from a stainless steel taken from a tramontina, I sharpen more often (it's been 4-5 months since I scored on it at all and I don't use it) cuts soapy ...
voschem my IMHO - it's easier to wipe carbon after use than to suffer with stainless steel
Sincerely
kaiowas 17-10-2012 21:02
and the father of the tramontin was called twice shitty? There are very nice options!
Want to create a unique knife? Do you need a woodcutter or a sharp blade for hunting? Making a good product with your own hands is more than real. The main thing is to have the skill of working with metal and know what you want.
Making a knife: where to start?
First, prepare all the necessary parts and tools, put them in one place. Decide what kind of material you will use. If you need a sharp and durable product, make a knife from a saw.
Take the blank. A saw blade for wood or metal is best suited for this purpose. Use wood (any, according to your desire), textolite, plexiglass as material for the manufacture of the handle for the blade.
What tools do you need in the process of making a knife?
To get started and make a knife from a metal saw, you will need:
- file;
- electric drill;
- marker;
- ruler;
- sandpaper;
- surface polishing paste;
- copper or aluminum for rivets.
How to make a blank?
Let's figure out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal blade for making a blade. Draw on it a blank of the future tool, using a marker for these purposes.
Remember that a knife is considered a melee weapon if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you improperly construct a knife from a saw and it is regarded as a cold weapon - expect punishment.
Having outlined the contour of the future product, start cutting the shape. It is important to draw the shape so that the cutting part of the future product is located in the area of the saw teeth. Due to the setting of the saw, if you make a butt in this place, you will have to do additional work to grind the bulge.
Things to consider when getting started
Don't start sharpening your knife without some practice. Take a regular piece of metal and try to process it. Spoiling a piece of iron is not as scary as losing a good piece. You should not only adjust the pressure when turning, but also monitor the temperature so as not to overheat the iron. High temperatures not only spoil the look of the metal. Even if it does not change outwardly, its structure can be seriously damaged: the metal will become much softer and more brittle. A knife made of low-quality metal will have to be sharpened more often.
To check if the iron has started to overheat, put a couple of drops of water on the workpiece. If it immediately evaporates, rather cool the blank for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles associated with overheating of the metal, place a container of water near the machine and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.
Working with a workpiece
Having formed the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and difficult stage of work - the removal of descents. The descent is the surface on the knife that gradually tapers towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly determines the angle and width of the slopes. So choose an average if you want to get out of the saw.
Before starting work on the machine, draw the intended descents on the metal canvas using a marker. Sew carefully, slowly, so as not to spoil the future knife. It is recommended, as in the previous step, to practice on a spare part. The slopes must be symmetrical and at the same angle on both sides. In this case, the blade must be unfinished: leave an indent of about 0.25 mm.
To sharpen the blade, use For such purposes, sandpaper of 8-10 hardness numbers is best suited. It is better to sharpen a knife from a saw for metal on a wooden block. To prepare a makeshift sharpener, take a block and glue sandpaper to it.
Using coarse sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary sharpness, and using a finer one, you will grind the metal blade completely.
At the final stage of processing, polish the blade. Cover the same wooden block with felt or leather, rub and polish until you achieve the desired effect.
How to make a knife handle
The easiest way is to glue the handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make it than to attach it to the tail of a knife. Naturally, you can choose an unpretentious option and wrap the handle with electrical tape, but why try so hard to end up ruining the aesthetic appearance of the knife?
And now the most crucial stage of work begins. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the blade can easily burst. Therefore, be vigilant and careful.
Steel is a hard but brittle material. With an even pressure distribution when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with spot drilling, the pressure increases and the metal can crack easily. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low machine speeds and do not forget to add oil to the drilling site. In this case, a screwdriver is an ideal tool for achieving this goal, since it has less revolutions, then the possibility of part breakage is not so high.
After completing the previous step and making holes in the handle, drill the same holes in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can glue the area where the rivet will be located with glue, but it is better if you have epoxy.
Can the process be simplified?
Craftsmen say that a hole can be made without the use of drilling tools. The blade together with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface from varnish. You should place a knife from a saw for wood in an electrolyte solution and lower a wire with a negative charge into a container with a workpiece, and connect the positive wire to a power source, which can be used as a regular battery.
As a result of such an impact, a hole in the metal will turn out, however, it will not be perfectly round, but it will definitely not work to damage the blade in this way.
Other processing methods of the part
If for some reason you cannot make a knife out of you, you do not have the necessary material - replace it. For the manufacture of a blade, an automobile spring is well suited, the metal of which is softer than that of a saw. To process such a workpiece, you do not have to use a sharpener, but you will need a metal saw to cut the shape of the blade. Since the metal is easier to machine, the edges of the workpiece can be adjusted with a file. It will take longer to work on making a knife in this way, because each stage of processing includes manual work.
Making a knife from a saw is a laborious process, but the result is worth it. Having made a knife from a saw with your own hands, you will receive a high-quality and unique blade.
Boyarych 30-11-2005 13:37
Tell me if anyone knows! Is it possible to make a chipped standing blade from a band saw blade (for sawmills), if so, how can it be hardened at home?
GFO 30-11-2005 13:43
Can. The device will turn out at the level. Although a little fragile. There is no need to do a thermic
Serjant 30-11-2005 14:42
Band saw thin, mm 0.8 ... 1 approximately thick. Saw in the form of a ring. A thin piece of iron. The engine turns STE disgrace, the tree is sawn ... The blade is made by Mona, but small and figurative. for as mentioned it is extremely thin.
Normal saws should be taken, from sawmills, two and a half meters long, mm 3 thick. Here is STE THING, about a band saw it is so ... gaveha by and large ...
Boyarych 30-11-2005 14:49
Thank you! I should.
Boyarych 30-11-2005 14:51
To what temperature should it be heated and where should it be lowered (in the sense of water or oil)?
GFO 30-11-2005 14:51
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
Leonid, do not confuse warm with soft.
Normal saws should be taken, from sawmills, two and a half meters long, mm 3 thick.
I meant it
osb 30-11-2005 14:52
And it is better, in my opinion, to take saws for cutting metal (well, we are talking about mechanical saws) from high-speed cutters P6, P9 (my favorite) or P18. Of course, it is difficult to process (long and tedious), but an excellent blade is obtained. You can buy freely and without stress.
If necessary, I will reset the links. I recently made a blade from a fast cutter P9 (80 years old), the thing turned out to be excellent. Descents from the butt, steamed up, and polished shitty. But it shines like a mirror, shaves and does not dull.
Boyarych 30-11-2005 15:14
If it's not difficult, throw it off.
vegur 30-11-2005 15:51
Again, from such a saw, only small blades, rust clings instantly, although you can sharpen to a razor
Kondrat 30-11-2005 16:29
2 osb "If you need to reset links".
Discard if not difficult.
Thanks.
osb 02-12-2005 16:57
You can buy here
Http://www.rekos.ru
_http: //www.inpo.ru/
_http: //www.tehservis.ru
_http: //www.tehmet.ru
Reglan 02-12-2005 18:17
quote: Originally posted by vegur:
Again, from such a saw, only small blades, rust clings instantly, although you can sharpen to a razor
I have a knife made from such a saw. My father-in-law (former) gave it to me; he did it himself in front of my eyes. Of course, his knife turned out to be ugly, but I could not refuse the gift. Having divorced my wife, having come to my mother, I threw this knife into the kitchen as unnecessary and scary. So that at least the moral right was to throw it out. Kind of rust in the trash, and in the bucket. So 4 years of tough use in the kitchen, sometimes for days in the sink, even if henna him. For the mother, the sharpest knife in general. Sometimes it is true, but after a long aging in the sink, rust appears on the sharpening itself and that which is immediately removed with a touchstone (5 times for the whole time). Now I began to remember how many times during this time I sharpened it and remembered only 2 times.
Conclusion: To prevent rust from clinging, the blade is etched with phosphoric acid on a heated knife several times, the color is almost black and resistant to abrasion.
vegur 03-12-2005 15:14
It’s strange, it turns red in places from such a saw, in places it turns black, once it gets into the kitchen.
And in a drawer, brightly polished
Thorwald 05-12-2005 12:38
I understand the posts about the saw from the sawmill?
just today I wanted to ask what kind of steel is there and is it worth using it for our needs?
on the weekend I just practiced getting descents on a workpiece from a sawmill saw. I have it for about 2 years lying around unfinished
Morgan 05-12-2005 14:27
I made as an experiment from a tape from an imported machine for sawing steel bars. It clearly shows a 5 mm layer of another metal welded to the working part, apparently a quick cut, and brought it to the RK. Thickness 0.9mm - not suitable for a serious knife, it is used as an auxiliary worker. Blade length 78mm, handle - unidentified wood, forging - titanium ring, mounted on epoxy. Impressions - in terms of properties, it is close to a quick cut.
Stream 05-12-2005 21:58
quote: Originally posted by Reglan:
Conclusion: To prevent rust from clinging, the blade is etched with phosphoric acid on a heated knife several times, the color is almost black and resistant to abrasion.
Can I get more details? To what temperature should the blade be heated?
I decided to write an article on how to make a knife. The main idea is that all work will be done by hand (except for drilling and heat treatment). The idea came about because there are many articles that say that to make a knife it is enough to have a few files and a drill or something like that on hand. I was curious to know how long the whole process would take and if I would have to cheat and use power tools. Making a knife in this way was a wonderful experience. The whole work took much longer than I expected. And at the end, I got a new respect for people who make knives by hand. Overall, I am happy with the result, and I hope this article will help anyone who wants to try making a knife with their own hands.
Creating a mock knife
I tried to make the knife as large as possible, using a design that fits the blade as much as possible. Thanks to the layout of the knife, made by me from thick paper, it was easy for me to transfer its outline to the surface. For this procedure, I used a fine point marker. This may seem like a small thing, but I think this detail is important. Compared to a conventional marker, the thinner marker leaves a more precise line. If the line is too thick, then it will be possible to make a mistake when cutting the workpiece.
Cutting the workpiece
With the disc secured to the work table, I began to cut out the rough shape of the blade using straight cuts. If you've never used a hacksaw for metal, make sure the blade is secured correctly with the teeth facing forward. The hacksaw should cut when pushing away from itself.
Sawing bends
In order to cut the curved section of the handle, for convenience, I had to make several perpendicular short cuts along the entire bend. Then, working at a slight angle with a hacksaw, I cut off each piece. Short cuts make it much easier to cut bends.
Primary file processing
To improve the shape of the workpiece, I attached a block of wood to a work table and fixed the blade on it with clamps. This made it possible to process the edges with a file. At the same time, the blade was conveniently and securely fixed. I also used the file to identify areas that need more work. The design had a slight bend in the butt, and I used the flat part of the file to check the progress of that bend. If there was a flat area on the butt, it can be easily found with a file.
Shaping the workpiece
I used several types of files to get as close as possible to the shape drawn by the marker. At this stage, the workpiece began to look more like a knife and it was more difficult to detect flaws by eye. If there was a place to work on, I corrected the outline with a marker and then processed the workpiece to a new line. This line was needed so as not to overdo it and not spoil the design. The last photo shows the blade after shaping it with a file and sandpaper. I don't have a photo of me grinding the blade. At this stage, the marks left by the file were removed. I started with grain P150 and went up to P220.
Drilling the shank
I originally planned to make a sharpening rib with a high cutting edge, but I didn't want to test my limited abilities. The saw blade is made of a fairly thin material that I would not have been able to file a sharpening rib with a cutting edge with a file as I would like. We will return to this topic later. At this point, I measured out the location of the rivets, applied cores and drilled holes with a cordless drill.
Preparing to work with a cutting edge
I applied paint with a marker along the future cutting edge of the blade. Then, using a drill bit the same thickness as the blade, I scribbled a mark exactly in the middle of the blade line. In the last image, this line is poorly visible, but it is there. This mark will be handy when filing the cutting edge so that it does not slope unevenly.
Forming the cutting edge
For the formation of the cutting edge, I used a file with a large notch, at this point I realized that I did not have sufficient skills to manually cut the sharpening edge. So I opted for a smoother angle, file from the edge to the butt. I'm new to this, so I chose a more conservative method of removing the stock. After the cutting edge was properly cut, I sandpaper with P220 grit all over the blade.
Finished blade
Here is the blade after shaping, filing, sanding. Ready for heat treatment.
Hardening
Before continuing, I would like to point out that heat treatment can also be carried out on an open wood fire, but I would not recommend that. The thing is that this method seems unsafe to me. So I used my mini-mountain. If you don't have anything like this, you can actually use a third-party service to heat-treat the blade. There are some businesses that are ready to perform heat treatment. For money, of course. Let me explain how I did it. He made a fire using raw wood. For the blacksmith fur, I used a hair dryer attached to a tube. I turned on the hairdryer and heated the charcoal to red. It didn't take long. I put the blade in the fire and heated it until it stopped magnetising. Then I tempered it in a peanut butter container. The last photo shows what the blade looks like after hardening. Although heat treatment can be carried out over an open fire, I do not recommend it.
Vacation
Then it was time to spend the blade release. First, I cleaned the scale that remained after hardening with sandpaper. I set the temperature in my oven to 190 degrees Celsius and put the blade in it for 1 hour. An hour later, I turned off the oven and left the knife in it to cool down to room temperature without opening the oven door. You can observe a light or bronze sheen, which the blade acquires after tempering. After this procedure, I sanded the blade with P220 grit and then changed to P400. In the last photo, I'm using P400 sandpaper over the block. I perform machining from the shank to the point only in one direction. This treatment makes the surface uniform.
Sawing out the handle blank
Using the blade as a reference, I traced the outline of the handle on a piece of wood. The handle will be walnut. Here again I used a bar and clamps, and cut off two pieces, each 0.6 centimeters thick. In a state of excitement, I hastened to cut the tree. Wait a bit to think about the procedure, and I could accomplish this with less effort, and probably with better results. My first mistake was trimming the extra part. It can be used for clamping while cutting. Here my inexperience manifested itself, and, as a result, more work was done. Although, in the end, it was possible to make two parts suitable for the handle.
Preparing the handle for gluing
So that the handles fit well to the shank after gluing with epoxy resin, using a flat surface and sandpaper, I made one side of each of the parts as flat as possible. So there will definitely be no gaps after gluing. At this point, I also decided on the shape of the handle, and in order to finally be convinced of this, I put its approximate outlines. Then I again transferred the outline of the shank to the wood part of the handle. I sawed out an approximate shape on one of the parts with a jigsaw, and then, attaching it to the other, I transferred the contour to the second. This operation gave me the opportunity to make approximately the same parts, which will be convenient for gluing. The last photo shows a fitting to check that all parts of the shank are covered with wood.
Forming the upper part of the handle
It's time again to sandpaper and shape more precisely. At this stage, it is important to finally form the shape for the forging or the upper part of the handle, because after gluing it will be more difficult to process. And also processing these parts after gluing, you can scratch the blade. Therefore, I achieved the final shaping and sanding of this part with P800 sandpaper.
Hole preparation for rivets
Having drilled one rivet hole in the wood, I inserted a drill of a suitable diameter into it to fix this axis. In other words, this was done for fixing to avoid mistakes when drilling the second hole. I drilled the other side of the handle in the same way, making sure the corresponding holes line up.
Making rivets
For the rivet, I used a 4.7mm diameter stainless steel rod. Before applying a layer of glue, I treated the surfaces to be glued with acetone or alcohol to remove dirt, dust or oil.
