Propagation of lilac cuttings. Breeding methods for various varieties of lilacs at home

Lilac is incredibly beautiful and lush bush, which will become a decoration of any garden and personal plot... In addition, lilac smells very pleasantly, filling the entire space around with a delicate, floral scent. Many gardeners are familiar with the moment when they decide to propagate a tree or bush, and in this case, they face certain difficulties, not knowing how to do it correctly. In this article, we will tell you how to properly propagate lilacs so that it takes root and blooms the next year.

There are three ways of propagation of lilacs, and they are all vegetative - grafting, using cuttings and layering.

Also, lilac bushes are divided into two categories: self-rooted and grafted. Life cycle rooted lilacs have much longer (from 25 to 50 years), care is very simple, you do not need to regularly remove root growth, and in the future there will be a significant advantage - such bushes give better quality planting material... However, lilacs are propagated by cuttings too.

Selection of planting material

Experience has shown that small cuttings, harvested from thin overgrowing twigs, growing not vertically, but at an angle to erect growth shoots, take root better. But before selecting the planting material, you need to make sure of the purity and quality of the plant, it must bloom at least once.

It's best not to give mother plants grow strongly in height, keep them low, then it is more convenient to harvest cuttings. Annual pruning of cuttings can weaken the mother liquors, therefore, in the process of harvesting the material, the shoots of the current year, which are longer than 20 cm, are cut by 70-80% of total length... If possible, it is better to give the plants a rest for 1 year.

Mother plants need regular feeding and watering. It is worth noting that excessive fertilization, as well as heavy pruning, lead to the formation of a large number of fatty shoots. Green shards from such shoots are poorly rooted.

Rooting of green lilac cuttings is difficult; in greenhouse conditions, do not expect results above 30, maximum 50 percent. In the process of harvesting, it is important to cut the cuttings correctly, the cut should be oblique, just under the knot. If you cut between the nodes, the cutting will not be able to take root.

Cuttings are harvested during or after flowering. Cut them into a length of about 15 cm, without breaking the leaves. Before planting the material, it is stored unfolded under plastic wrap.

First, all leaves are removed from the bottom node.

With the help of a sharpened secateurs, an oblique cut is made just below the node from which the leaves were removed.

The remaining sheets must be shortened by about half.

We remove the top of the shoot at a right angle.

Preparing cuttings before planting

In order to increase the likelihood of rooting, it is worth treating green cuttings with a growth regulator, for example, heteroauxin in an aqueous or alcoholic solution.

For the uterine method, you need to prepare the mother liquor in advance. You will need 98% ethyl alcohol or acetone, as well as a powder growth regulator (calculation of 1 g per 100 ml of alcohol). Store this solution in a dark glass container for about two months. The alcoholic solution is prepared by diluting the mother liquor twice with alcohol.

For lilac water solution used more concentrated than for other plants - 150-200 mg. heteroauxin per 1 liter.

When an alcohol solution is used, the cuttings are dipped into it for just a few seconds, they are kept in an aqueous solution from 16 to 18 hours, and then washed with water. Prepared cuttings are planted in greenhouses, or in low greenhouses, which are in partial shade. When planting, you can not use soil mixtures that contain sand, since in them lilacs are poorly strengthened by roots.

The most suitable soil composition: 1/4 coarse perlite, 1/4 high peat and 2/4 low peat.

A place for planting is prepared in this way: 10-15 cm of a drainage layer from crushed stone or expanded clay, 15-20 cm of humus or rotted manure are poured, and on top of all this, about 5 cm of soil mixture. Further, all this is compacted and poured with water.

A place for planting cuttings is prepared as follows: 10 - 15 centimeters of the drainage layer (you can use crushed stone or expanded clay), 15 - 20 centimeters of humus or rotted manure and on top of it - from 5 to 8 centimeters of soil mixture. All this must be compacted and carefully poured from a watering can.

Planting process and subsequent care of cuttings

Pre-prepared cuttings are planted in a greenhouse in rows at a distance of about 10 cm and 5 cm between cuttings, then water everything abundantly. Next, you need to make a shelter for the cuttings, which is made from plastic film and wooden sticks, from which a low frame is made, up to half a meter high.

Then comes the period of rooting of lilacs, when the cuttings are watered no more than 1 time a week, simultaneously removing the fallen leaves. The first roots will appear only after one and a half to two months, and just by this time you can start airing the greenhouse, but only in the evening. Later you can completely remove the shelter, and in the fall, transplant the cuttings to permanent place their growth.

If you see that the cuttings are poorly rooted, you can transplant them only in the spring, after wrapping them up for the winter. In the process of transplanting, remember the fragility of the root system, and therefore be very careful.

The results of the work done depend both on the correct manipulations and on the variety of the lilac itself. The following varieties take root best of all: Dream, Nadezhda, Buffon. Havemeyer, Katerina and Ludwig Shpet reproduce poorly.

And the various colors of the bud itself are simply mesmerizing. You can see white, purple, blue, pink flowers... Today, scientists know about 30 species of this amazing bush. Very often, having met a charming ornamental plant, I want to put him on your site. But how to do that? How does the reproduction of lilacs actually take place? Let's learn a few important secrets. But before we learn how to propagate lilacs at home, let's figure out the preferences of this plant.

Peculiarities

Lilac is thermophilic, and in general, unpretentious plant... The shrub is very fond of sunlight and freedom. Therefore, it is better to plant lilacs in a place where they can grow freely. However, the shrub is not very fond of drafts, so consider this when planting. Any soil is suitable, even not the most fertile, possibly rocky. Lilac does not like stagnant moisture, so you can plant a shrub for drainage. At the very least, it will only contribute to normal growth. Lilac is unpretentious in care and planting. Therefore, it does not require any mineral supplements.

Reproduction methods

The shrub reproduces:

cuttings;
layering;
root shoots.

Let us dwell on each of these methods in more detail. So.

Cuttings

Reproduction of lilacs in this way is quite simple. You will need a shank. Suitable as a young, green pagon, and already stiff. You can cut it in spring, summer, and also in late autumn, when the bush has dropped its leaves. Let's take a closer look at those cuttings that are cut in the spring, during the flowering of the bush. What do you need to know?

carefully cut off the stalk, on which there are 4 to 6 leaves. Usually this is a twig with three to four pairs of buds. We must leave the sheet on it;
before planting the cutting, you need to remove the leaves from the last two buds;
cut off the bevel twig;
the top of the branch must be cut in a straight line;
you can treat the cuttings with special solutions for growth and leave them for 18 hours;
preparing a pit for planting. To do this, pour drainage on the bottom, about 15 cm, fill it with liquid humus, and water it abundantly;
we plant the cuttings, leaving 5 cm apart;
cover with foil;
water them about 1 time per week;
we remove the fallen leaves;
choose the best shoots and transplant them to a permanent place, remove weak shoots.

As you can see, the method of propagation by cuttings is very simple. Sometimes you can not immediately plant the cuttings in the ground, but first plant them in a pot. But you should immediately understand that you will not have 100 exit. Approximately 50% of all cuttings will be discarded or not accepted.

If you need to grow lilacs from already stiff branches, then they should be prepared late autumn... Trim the cuttings as shown above and leave them in the wet sand in the basement for the winter. Then, in the spring, transplant the shanks into a warm earth. In this way, planted lilacs will begin to bloom in about 5-7 years.

Root shoots

Lilac is an amazing shrub that also reproduces undergrowth. This is perhaps the easiest way to transplant, it does not require special efforts from the owner. The new shrub usually has very strong roots, rooted well and grows without requiring special care... At the same time, the new bush completely retains the characteristics of its variety, which is important for true connoisseurs of lilacs.

A young seedling is separated from the maternal root system by about October, it is during this period that it should be planted. Indeed, at the end of October, sap flow significantly decreases, and the trauma to the root system from transplantation will be minimal. For transplanting, it is best to choose a not sunny day and water the new bush with plenty of water. Everything should be done very carefully so as not to damage the young pagons.

Layers

Talking about how lilacs multiply, it is impossible not to remember the Chinese method. Its essence is as follows:

in the spring, near a well-established 3-4 year old lilac bush, small furrows are made in the ground, about 20 mm wide;
the strongest shoots are put there and fixed several times;
pull the shoots with copper wire;
cover the shoots with earth. Vertical shoots should grow from the nodes;
spud shoots when they grow up to a distance of 15 cm;
watered regularly;
at the end of September, the land around the bush is harvested and transplanted for growing.

This is a more troublesome way of reproduction, but it has the right to life.

Seeds

Lilacs are also propagated by seeds. Collect them in the fall from the bush that you would like to grow. The seeds need to be dried a little so that the shutters do not open. The seeds are mixed with sand and stored in the refrigerator for several months. After this procedure, it is worth transplanting the seeds into a special container or pot. Seeds of ordinary lilacs will begin to sprout in about 2 weeks, varietal ones - a little longer. After you have dived the young, they can be transferred to the ground. Some people practice sowing seeds directly into the ground. This should be done in November, October, before the first frosts.

As you can see, you can grow lilacs the most different ways... The main thing is to achieve the desired result.

Lilacs are famous for the beauty of their flowers and a wonderful aroma, so many people want to plant it on their site. The tree will look great in the country or in adjoining territory city buildings.

Not everyone knows how to grow lilacs from a twig. It is necessary to ensure that the plant takes over, does not hurt and pleases with its wonderful flowers. Read more about this in the article.

The advantage of cuttings

Cutting lilacs has advantages over other options for obtaining ready-made bushes. At self-use seeds can be difficult because they do not always germinate easily.

The acquisition of seedlings leads to additional costs, so grafting lilacs will also be a profitable option. If you understand the intricacies of planting in other ways, you can choose any. Any method requires careful preparation and phasing. Don't forget about regular grooming.

Choosing a cutting

Before you learn how to grow lilacs from a twig, you should choose the right stalk - it depends on whether the shoot is accepted or not. The branch must be cut carefully. This should be done in early spring, when the cutting is not yet in active growth, otherwise it will be difficult for it to take root.

It is necessary to cut off green branches of medium thickness. A cutting from the crown of a young bush is perfect, preferably from the middle. It will be possible to grow a bush if there are 2-3 nodules and small internodes on the branch. It is advisable to cut the cuttings in the early morning - they will take better.

Treatment

How to grow lilacs from a twig? How do you make the cutting take good start? To do this, it is necessary to process it with high quality: remove the leaves from the lower node, and then make an oblique cut with a sharp knife. It is advisable to use a grafting secateurs.

This must be done carefully so that a cut on the internodes does not turn out. Next, cut the leaf plates in half. Remove the top of the shoot completely with a straight cut. After that, the cutting can be used for planting.

Landing

So how to grow lilacs from a twig? After processing and cutting, the cutting should be dipped into the Epin-extra solution. After 16 hours, take it out and rinse it with clean water.

Next, we plant the cutting in enriched soil. The earth must be mixed with sand, peat or perlite in equal quantities and a branch should be placed in it so that the lower node is covered. Water immediately with the fungicide solution to protect the plant from fungus.

Watering

How to grow a bush from a lilac twig? For this, it is necessary to ensure high-quality watering. After planting, the plant must be sprayed with a spray bottle and then shaded.

Watering should be done 3-5 times a day for several weeks. This is necessary to ensure the desired moisture content. Every week, you need to spray a solution of potassium permanganate on the leaves to protect the plant from bacteria and fungi. Best covered with a bottle to maintain moisture.

Care

The plant requires quality care. Roots will appear on it after 2 months. After that, it is necessary to ventilate the plant, preferably in the evenings: remove the bottle from it for 1 hour.

The rooting of the plant occurs by autumn. If necessary, it can be transplanted to a place where there is a lot of light and fertile soil... Conditions can be improved by fertilizing the earth with compost, humus, wood ash.

Seeds

This option is suitable for species specimens, since the cultivation of lilacs by seeds entails the loss of the characteristics of the variety. The method is suitable for obtaining a rootstock. This option attracts breeders with the possibility of obtaining new varieties.

First, the seeds are stratified for 2 months at a temperature of +2 ... + 5 ° C, and then sown in the spring in a soil mixture - peat and sand (2: 1). Germination time is different for all varieties, for example, for common lilac - 13-16 days.

After the formation of 4 leaves at the seedling, a pick is performed at a distance of 3-4 cm.In May, they can be planted in open ground, and by autumn they will adapt. With the first frost, the seedlings should be covered with a layer of peat 8-10 cm thick for the winter.

Growing lilacs can be done in other ways, for example, layering and budding. Each method has its own characteristics, but in all cases it is necessary to go through all the stages of preparation so that the plant is well accepted and grows healthy.

How to grow lilacs from a twig in a pot? The procedure is performed in the way described above, you just need to choose a container - it can be a plastic or ceramic pot. It is important to follow the sequence of actions, as with the classic landing, only then you can expect excellent results.

It is easier to grow in a greenhouse as the greenhouse effect creates ideal conditions. In addition, the moisture content is quite suitable for the root system. On the winter period the plant must be covered with spruce branches. For several years, the bush should be loosened, weeded, be sure to add top dressing. Fertilizer can be compost and humus. Proper care ensures excellent growth and luxurious flowering.

Everything cultivars lilacs reproduce vegetatively: by shoots (self-rooted specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have the skills of grafting, and it is problematic to make layering for you, then the most suitable way for you is propagation by green cuttings

Gardeners have the misconception that self-rooted lilacs bloom worse. However, it is in no way inferior to the grafted in size and beauty of the inflorescences, moreover, it is more durable. There are landings that, when proper care do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years. Lilac is one of the hard-to-root plants, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the timing of harvesting cuttings! Semi-lignified cuttings do not take root.

1. Most the right time- the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when the young overgrowing twigs finish their growth.

2. Cut the cuttings preferably in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using branches of medium thickness (in extreme cases, thin) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best that it has 2-3 nodes and short enough internodes.

3. Not suitable for harvesting cuttings of lilac shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fatty shoots. In lilacs, tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings.

1. First, remove all leaves from the bottom node.

2. Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which you removed the leaves. To do this, use a well-sharpened grafting knife or a special pruning shears in order to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly in internodes, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not take root.

3. Shorten the remaining leaf blades in half.

4. Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top knot.

5. Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in a solution of the "Epin-extra" or "Zircon" stimulant for 16-18 hours. They will need to be rinsed with clean water immediately before planting.

Rooting cuttings of lilacs in a greenhouse.

It is best to plant cuttings in a greenhouse or cuttings located in partial shade. In extreme cases, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with cut-off five-liter plastic bottles from under drinking water.

1. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix peat with sand in a 1: 1 ratio. It's good if you replace part of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting.

2. Fill the cuttings with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. Cover the top with a layer of sand (preferably river) 5 cm thick. Spill the prepared place well with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from fungal diseases.

3. Cuttings of lilacs are difficult to root, therefore it is necessary to use root formation stimulants. Dip the wet end of the cutting into the Kornevin stimulator.

4. Make a small indentation in the wet sand and place the stalk there, fully deepening the bottom knot. Try to keep the powder root stimulant from falling off. Seal. The bottom end of the cutting should be completely in the sand and not touching the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves touch each other slightly.

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle with water. The solution "Epina-extra" or "Zircon" remaining from soaking cuttings can be added to the water.

Cover the cuticle with two layers of polyethylene, placing a layer of thin or translucent fabric between them. You can use other shading methods, such as placing a plastic fruit mesh box on top of the plastic to provide a gliding shade.

Make sure that the sand in the cuttings does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they root successfully at 100% humidity. Spray a light pink potassium permanganate solution once a week to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Lilac cuttings take root for a very long time, depending on the variety, the roots appear 40-60 days after planting. With the formation of roots, the cuttings must be ventilated in the evening, and then opened completely.

Taking care of rooted cuttings.

If rooting happened late, then it is best to leave the cuttings in the cuttings for the winter. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, early autumn they can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing.

In the year of rooting, the plant does not shoot shoots, but builds up the root system. Leaves on cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not a problem. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

Choose a bright spot for growing young seedlings. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if necessary to lower the acidity, 300-400 g wood ash or 200 g dolomite flour by 1 square meter and dig on the bayonet of the shovel. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

The young roots of lilacs are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water them so that the earth settles a little.

For the first winter, cover the seedlings with spruce branches or provide any other dry shelter... In the spring, with the onset of warm weather, remove the shelter. At good care(weeding, loosening, regular feeding) after two years, the lilac can be planted in a permanent place. Lilac blooms after grafting in the 4-5th year, but after 1-2 years of growing, you can plant it in a permanent place.

The fresh scent under the windows on a warm May night is the best evidence of the victorious spring and the imminent arrival of summer. Lilac flowers have many shades, aromas and varieties. We will tell you about what to do in order to grow the varieties you like most in this article.

Cuttings

Like any beauty, lilacs are quite capricious, so any method of reproduction requires a lot of effort and has both advantages and disadvantages.

Cutting is the most difficult method for propagating lilacs, since you need to adhere to a number of conditions in terms of timing, temperature and humidity. However, it is the most effective, it is most often used for the mass cultivation of lilacs.

Now any beginner can learn how to propagate lilacs by cuttings, since there are a lot of training materials, including video materials, in the public domain.

The timing

Timely harvesting of cuttings is one of the main features of this type of breeding. Reproduction by green cuttings is carried out in the spring, during the flowering period or the next week, until the young green branches finish growing, since the cuttings that have begun to grow wood will no longer take root.

Blank

It is recommended to harvest cuttings early in the morning. They are taken on young bushes mainly from their middle, choosing those growing on the middle part of the shoots. Twigs need medium in thickness, preferably with 2-3 nodes and small gaps between them.
The tops and tines on thick branches are not suitable as they do not take root.

At the bottom node, all the leaves are cut off. Then, just below it, an oblique cut is made, trying not to injure the plant, for this they take a sharp, or sharp grafting knife.

If the cut passes through the internode, the cutting will not take root. At the cutting, the top is cut off, just above the top node. The remaining leaves are cut in half.

After such cutting, the cuttings are placed in water with dissolved, for example, indolyl butyric acid, an aqueous solution for 15-18 hours.

Did you know? Most varieties of lilac bloom in spring, about three weeks, but the variety Jose or Boomerang, and a number of others, bloom several times during the year.

Rooting

Rooting is best done in a light shade or shelter from the sun.

The cuttings are buried so as to cover the lower node in the ground. Subsequent watering is carried out, depending on the tightness of the greenhouse, from twice a day to once a week, the main thing is to ensure that the soil does not dry out.

To combat mold, cuttings, no more than once a week, are treated with a weak solution.

Rooting takes a long time, from 40 days to a couple of months. Not last weeks cuttings need to be ventilated, and then completely open.

Important! Different varieties of lilac take root in different ways. Rooting of varieties Nadezhda, Buffon, Dream goes without problems, the results of varieties Hortensia, Krasnaya Moskva, Zhanna D'Ark are worse, and varieties Havemeir, Ludwig Shpet, Katerina are practically not cuttings.

Landing

After rooting, the petioles can be replanted. If it's already autumn, then it is better not to touch them, but to do the transplant in the spring. When rooting has taken place before the end of summer, then from the beginning of autumn they can be transplanted into a "school" for growing.

By the end of the growing of roots, the leaves on the cuttings may darken, this is normal, the main thing is that the buds are alive, then the seedling will take root.
The place for growing is determined in the sun, closed from the wind. The earth is selected light, neutral or. It is fertilized with humus and dug onto a shovel bayonet.

The cuttings have fresh roots that are very delicate and fragile, so they are transplanted carefully, not rammed, but only so that the earth is slightly compacted. They are seated 30 cm from one another.

For the winter, cuttings are covered with coniferous spruce branches, hay or other dry cover. Lilacs are grown for two years, after which it can be planted in a permanent place.

The final planting of lilacs is best done in late summer - early autumn. When planting, the plant must be well watered. The planting site, if you do not take into account the design factor, you need to choose a sunny, warm, well-drained, neutral fertile, preferably even.

Lilac grafting

Vaccination is the most efficient way breeding varietal lilac. You can inoculate not only on wild, but also on any varietal lilac. You can grow a seedling for a stock yourself from seeds, but this will take you a couple of years, you can graft on it when you reach a centimeter thickness.

There are many ways of grafting plants, for lilacs the best are copulation, ordinary grafting with a cuttings for the bark, grafting into a split, budding with a sleeping bud (summer) and budding into the butt.

The timing

If you can graft lilacs only in the spring, when flowering is in progress, then you can graft most of the season. By the time of vaccination, it can be divided into spring, before the start of sap flow, and summer, when the tree is fully fed with juices.

Before sap flow, copulation and grafting into the split are carried out. With the onset of sap flow, the usual grafting is done with a cuttings, this usually happens during the flowering of lilacs. The period of budding of a dormant bud depends solely on the stage of bud maturation and occurs in the middle or late summer, depending on the region.

Important! Regardless of the period and type of vaccination, this should be done in dry, sunny weather.

Harvesting cuttings for scion is done at the beginning of winter, but it is possible at the end of winter or early spring, before spring grafting.

Scion and rootstock preparation

If the cuttings were cut at the beginning of winter, they are wounded in sawdust under the snow or in a damp cloth, in a bag in the refrigerator.

For scion, you can buy in special farms or from breeders. If the cuttings are harvested on their own, you need to adhere to a number of conditions.

First, they are taken from well-known, proven bushes so that you know exactly which variety you are planting. The bush should be relatively young, between three and ten years old.

Well-ripe annual shoots are cut from the bush, they are cut from the sunny side of the bush, preferably from the south side, from the outer part of the crown. It is best to take shoots at a medium height of the plant, since the lower ones are usually still small, and the upper ones are already too thick to take root.
Cuttings 30-40 cm long and about 7 cm thick will be optimal, with short internodes and well-marked, developed growth buds, there should be from 4 to 5 of them.

For rootstock, you can use different ages... Only the method of grafting will differ, for example, by copulation on thin shoots, and behind the bark on shoots thicker than one and a half cm. If an adult bush with a thick trunk is grafted, then it is better to inoculate on all skeletal branches.

Did you know? Lilacs belong to the Olive family, and the lilac flowers are edible.

Budding process

Sleeping bud budding is one of the main methods of grafting lilacs. It is held in July or August. Two-year-old seedlings or root shoots are taken for the stock.

On the eve of budding, in a couple of weeks, vegetation is cleared around the stock, and the lateral lower shoots and shoots coming from the roots are cut off. Before grafting, the stem of the stock is thoroughly cleaned with a damp cloth.
A sleeping kidney (a shield with an eye) is cut from the cutting, for this, taking the cutting with the lower part to itself in left hand, place the knife a couple of centimeters above the kidney and slightly plunge into, hold it a little deeper than the kidney, finishing the cut below it.

On the stem of the stock, 3-5 cm from the ground, a T-shaped incision is made on the bark, carefully separate the bark on both sides of the vertical incision. The shield is placed in a T-shaped incision, removing the protruding part with a knife.

Then the vaccination site is wrapped, leaving the bud with the petiole open. After the fusion of the shield with the barrel, the winding is removed. In early spring, part of the rootstock above the established bud is cut off.

Plant care

Usually the graft takes root in a couple of weeks, but they begin to grow much later, depending on the timing of vaccination this, or even next summer. Therefore, until the stalk is dry and the buds on it are green, the grafting is considered successful.

The scion garter is removed in order to prevent it from growing into, and in the event that there is confidence that it will not be broken off by the wind. To ensure engraftment, it is necessary to remove the shoots below the graft site.

Root lilac

Probably the most in a simple way Lilac propagation is root growth propagation. They do this in the canopy, when the movement of the lilac juices stops and root system not so sensitive.

It is advisable to choose a cloudy day. The bush from which the shoots are taken should be well-strengthened, already flowering. After watering it, a young seedling is separated. Since young roots are very fragile, this should be done carefully so as not to break them.

The resulting seedling, with already formed roots, is transplanted. The only drawback of this propagation is that the new plant will not bloom for about three years.

Seed reproduction

Lilacs are propagated by seeds when they want to grow a stock for subsequent grafting of valuable varieties of lilacs or if they want to get a new variety.

The fact is that during flowering, cross-pollination occurs and as a result, the same lilac will no longer grow, the flowers will be different.

Of the resulting seeds, some will be similar to the mother's, some will degrade to "wild" (flowers will be smaller and less often), they can be used on the stock, and some can grow with superior maternal splendor, aroma and color. This is how new varieties are obtained.

Seed preparation

The seeds are harvested in the fall, they are dried at home for several days until the capsules open, the speed of opening is determined by the lilac variety, if necessary, the seeds are harvested by hand.

Seeds are harvested a quarter more than necessary in order to then reject substandard seedlings. Harvested Seeds either sow for the winter, or at home.

Preparation and sowing

Seeds can be sown before winter directly into the ground, do it in already frozen ground or before the first snow falls. On clean, without, and other plants, the seeds are dropped in a couple of centimeters.

In the spring, after the snow melts, this one is covered with a film, and when the sprouts rise and grow (4-5 leaves appear), they are dived and planted more freely.

If the seeds are stored for the winter, then they are mixed with wet sand, 3 parts of sand for a part of the seeds, or put honey in wet wipes and placed in the refrigerator for several months. In the spring, they are sown on prepared for film, or they are pre-germinated at home in containers.

In the spring, it is advisable to first disinfect the soil in the beds by a thermal method from black rot and other fungi.

Seedling care

During cultivation, seedlings are fed or fertilized two or three times per season. The germination time is highly dependent on the variety, but no later than three months.

When propagating from cuttings, we get viable seedlings in a year. In an unvaccinated plant, this is important, the annual shoots are bent to the ground, fastened in this position and covered with earth. Water it during the season.

The grown bushes are separated and planted in the fourth year. With the grafted lilac, they act in this way, above the grafting site, the trunk is pulled over with wire, tilted and covered with earth by two-thirds so that the over-drawn place is in the ground.

By the end of the season, new roots are formed above the constriction site, after which the layers can be separated and planted.

When you decide how to breed lilacs, which method to choose, you need to take into account that you are critical of its advantages and disadvantages. Cutting lilacs with green cuttings, although it is difficult and time-consuming, makes it possible to immediately get many seedlings of the required variety. Write in the comments which questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!

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