How to hide wiring in a house from a bar. Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house - requirements, project preparation and step-by-step installation guide

Private buildings made of timber and logs are distinguished by their external attractiveness, living comfort and environmental friendliness. But they are classified as buildings with increased fire hazard, due to the combustibility of wood. Therefore, wiring in a wooden house is carried out taking into account special requirements. They are set out in the Electrical Equipment section of the Building Regulations (SNiP) and the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE).

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Installation requirements and general work plan

If you strictly adhere to the provisions of the PUE and SNiP, it is really possible to equip a reliable and safe power supply system for a wooden house with your own hands. First you need to familiarize yourself with the key requirements of these rules and regulations:

A competent scrupulous calculation of the cable cross-section is required. Non-combustible material is used for their insulation.
It is advisable to lay open wiring.
Concealed wiring is not recommended for wooden structures. If you have to use it, you should work with cables in a metal pipe or in another sheath.
In the switchboard, a protection device (RCD) and a circuit breaker are mounted and connected.

Wiring is divided into external and internal. The first is laid on the street and is connected to the home network through underground wells and channels or through the air (canopy).

External cables are usually made of wires with aluminum conductors, and only copper products are allowed to be used inside the dwelling. Their connection is carried out in a special adapter called a sleeve. It goes from the electric meter on the outer wall of the building to the switchboard.

Wiring in a wooden house is laid in stages. Experienced electricians are advised to adhere to the following sequence of work:

The total capacity of the equipment that is planned to be installed in the dwelling is calculated.
A power supply project is being prepared.
Selection and purchase of switches, sockets, wires, technical devices.
Power is being supplied to the building, a circuit breaker, an electric meter and a switchboard (PS) are connected.
The cable is bred around the house.
Mounted lighting fixtures, sockets, switches.

Lastly, the RCD is connected and the grounding system is equipped. After that, do-it-yourself wiring is tested for operability and safety of operation.

The nuances of drawing up a project for the energy supply of a wooden house

Work should begin by obtaining technical specifications from the local branch of the electricity supplier. Then they begin to calculate the total power of household appliances, lighting and other appliances. This operation is easy to do with your own hands, using the table below.

After the calculations, an electrical wiring diagram is created. The procedure is simple:

A house plan is being drawn up. It marks the installation points of electrical appliances, lamps, switches, sockets, and other equipment.
To connect the equipment, the appropriate type of cable is selected.
On the wiring diagram, the places where the junction boxes will be placed are marked. One such device is usually used for two adjacent (adjacent) rooms in the house.
The plan indicates the power of each electrical appliance (taking into account the starting force for installations with its own engine).
Equipment that consumes a lot of energy (furnaces, heating boilers, water heaters) are combined into one group. A separate machine is used to connect them.
Less powerful appliances (chandeliers, floor lamps, and so on) are collected in another group.

The diagram shows the distances from the line along which the cable is laid to all window and door openings and the removal of electrical points from the ceiling and floor surfaces. This is done so that later, if it is necessary to carry out repairs in the house, the probability of damage to the wiring is minimal.

During the design process, several important recommendations should be followed. Electricians advise working according to the following standards:

Cable laying is carried out at the top or bottom of the wall with an indent of 0.2 m from the ceiling or floor.
The switchboard is installed in the hallway of the house at a height of 150–170 cm so that children cannot reach it.
Turns of internal wiring are made at an angle of 90 °.
For reasons of aesthetics and ease of use, all switches are mounted at the same height (0.8–1.5 m). They are usually fixed from the side where the handle of the doors leading to the room is located.

Sockets are installed at any height (PUE and SNiP do not stipulate this point). But the places of their installation should be thought out as competently as possible, taking into account the layout of large household appliances and furniture. Then, after repair, you will not have to use extension cords to connect electrical equipment.

Selection of wires, sockets, switches - the table will help

The electrical network in a wooden house works without accidents and failures if the cross-section of cables is correctly determined, with the help of which lighting, special equipment and household appliances are connected. For many home craftsmen, this part of the work causes difficulties. The table for selecting the diameter of copper conductors for devices operating under certain loads allows you to cope with them.

Section, mm	Voltage, V
	380		220
	power, kWt	Current, A	power, kWt	Current, A
120	171,6	260	66,0	300
95	145,2	220	57,2	260
70	118,8	180	47,3	215
50	95,7	145	38,5	175
35	75,9	115	29,7	135
25	59,4	90	25,3	115
16	49,5	75	18,7	85
10	33,0	50	15,4	70
6	26,4	40	10,1	46
4	19,8	30	8,3	38
2,5	16,5	25	5,9	27
1,5	10,5	16	4,1	19

All electrical appliances have a technical passport or instructions for use. They indicate the loads that they consume. Based on this information, it is not difficult to select the required cables.

The safest wiring in a wooden house is obtained using NYM copper products. They are easy to install and process, have good strength, are equipped with additional insulation. Their only drawback is their high cost.

More affordable is the cable marked VVGng. Its insulation is carried out using PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic compound, which does not support combustion.

Switches and sockets are selected according to the type of wiring (open or hidden), the magnitude of the (calculated) current, the possibility of their connection on a single-frame block. Cables with three cores and mandatory grounding are connected to these network elements. The latter provides almost one hundred percent safety of operation of household appliances.

Introductory wire and machine - how to choose the right one?

To determine the cross section of the cable leading to the house, you need to calculate the total power (total rated load) of all available electrical devices and equipment. This is especially important if the wiring in a wooden house is being updated. That is, a complete replacement of auto switches and internal wiring is carried out.

If it is necessary to install a new lead-in cable on a log house or a residential building made of logs, contact the power supply organization. Its replacement is carried out before the installation and sealing of the electricity meter.

If the building network is designed for 380 V, a single-pole automatic machine is installed at the input. With a single-phase power supply (220 V), devices with 1 or two poles are used.

Experts advise choosing an automatic machine with a rating that, at maximum loads, does not turn off the current supply to the dwelling, but breaks the electrical circuit. Thus, it eliminates the risk of a short circuit.

It is easy to decide on the type, characteristics and rating of the introductory machine (VA) on your own. First, the power of all electrical equipment in the house is taken. According to the formula P / U * 0.8, the maximum current indicator is calculated. Its value is multiplied by a special coefficient of 1.1 and the value is obtained at which the switch at the input operates (in most cases, a 25 A fuse is used).

A suitable type of VA is selected according to the short circuit current (SCC). The formula used is: I = 3260 * S (wire cross section in millimeters) / L (cable length in meters).

The characteristic of the circuit breaker is determined by dividing the TKZ by the value of the rated current. For individual housing construction, it is recommended to use category C devices. They have shown themselves well when working in electrical networks with a mixed load.

VA is mounted after the counter. These two devices are mounted in an electrical panel on a DIN rail along with RCDs and automata for individual groups of equipment, after which they begin to lay cables around the dwelling.

Hidden and open wiring - features

Outside, the cable, as noted earlier, is mounted in metal pipes that are buried in the ground or in the air. The first method is more expensive, but really reliable.

Before the internal wiring in the house, the installation points of the switchboard and boxes, switches, sockets, and lighting fixtures are planned. RSH is fixed at the selected location. Then the following actions are performed:

An electricity meter is mounted in the switchboard housing.
A VA is placed on the DIN rail, to which the neutral and phase are connected.
The input of the input machine is connected to the terminals of the metering device.
Switches and voltage relays for RCDs and individual power groups are installed on the rail.
All clamps of electrical equipment are connected by a wire to one core.

Proceed directly to the wiring - hidden or open. The first is equipped in cases where the wall decoration in the dwelling is planned to be made as attractive and aesthetic as possible. It is ideal for newly built or overhauled log houses.

Hidden wiring involves placing cables in special non-combustible plastic or metal (aluminum, steel, copper) boxes. The latter are laid between the lining of the vertical surface and its base.

Open-type electrical wiring is installed in long-used houses and when creating retro interiors in new buildings. It is done with:

Ceramic rollers that act as insulators. This method is optimal for dwellings with walls made of wooden logs.
Plastic channels for cable fixed on vertical bases. These mounting fixtures are available in different colors, which makes it possible to choose them for any type of skin.
PVC bracket. This technique is rarely used in homes because of its unattractiveness. It is more suitable for wiring in technical, utility and utility rooms.
Corrugated pipes filled with cables up to a maximum of 40%.
Special skirting boards equipped with a gutter. In the latter there are special fixators for the wire.

Important! It is desirable to equip the passages through the walls from one room to another with fire-resistant metal sleeves. And already through them to stretch the cables. In this case, the likelihood of a fire due to faulty wiring is significantly reduced.

Popular Indoor Cable Routing Methods

Open wiring is usually carried out using cable channels. Step-by-step instructions for performing such an operation are given below:

The marking (according to the existing project) of the network laying line is being carried out.
Remove the cover from the cable channel.
Attach the box to the ceiling surface or wall. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Their installation is carried out in increments of 50 cm. At the turns of the route, additional hardware is screwed in.
Junction boxes are mounted in the designated places.
The wiring is placed in the cable channels, the latter are covered with a lid, and the fasteners are snapped into place.

Important! At the mounting points of switches and sockets, a small amount of cable should be left. It is required to connect the specified elements.

The wires in the distribution boxes are connected to each other and to the terminals of sockets, circuit breakers, switches. This part of the installation work is described in detail in the next section.

With hidden wiring, the cable is often "hidden" in metal pipes. The algorithm of work is simple:

They make strobes in the walls.
Distribution boxes are installed (so that access to them after facing the vertical bases is free).
Install pipes. If necessary, they are pre-cut. The ends of the products are cleaned, all burrs are removed from them.
Pipes are fastened with clamps.

The wiring is pulled through fixed metal channels. In junction boxes, the conductors are twisted and insulated.

Briefly about the methods of connecting wires and the intricacies of the procedure

The operation is done by hand in one of three ways. A single internal wiring is created:

twist.
Self-clamping Wago-terminals.
Special caps.

The first technique is inexpensive and available in implementation. The insulator (4–5 cm) is removed from the ends of the cables. The wires are twisted together, soldered and wrapped with a protective adhesive tape.

Wago technology involves removing 1 cm of insulation from the ends of the wires and connecting them using self-clamping terminals. The latter are selected according to the sections of the cables used.

The third method requires the purchase of special caps, inside which a conical spring is installed. How to use them:

wires are stripped and twisted;
cover the junction with the described product.

The spring, when screwing on the cap, firmly clamps the electrical cable. And the plastic shell acts as an insulator.

Nuance. The load capacity of the internal route being laid depends on the number of wire connections. The more of them, the less reliable the wiring is in operation.

The final stages of work - little things remain

PUE require that all household electrical equipment with a metal case (refrigerators and freezers, washing machines, boilers, stoves) be grounded. This operation is easy to perform on your own:

Three reinforcing bars with a section of 3 and a length of 300 cm are cut.
A triangular ditch 0.3 m deep with sides 1 m is dug in the courtyard of the house.
The rods are mounted into the ground at the corners of the trench, connected to each other by welding and steel billets.
An eye (loop) is attached to one of the bars. It is made of steel 10 mm thick.

The eye is connected in the electrical panel to the ground wire. It has a yellow-green insulating layer.

The residual current device is placed in the shield after the meter. It eliminates the risk of electric shock to a person during a breakdown of the latter on the housing of household appliances. RCD is selected according to two indicators:

Rated current. Its value is taken an order of magnitude higher than the characteristics of the auto switch installed in the circuit.
leakage current. For residential premises with normal humidity, devices with a response threshold of 30 mA are purchased, for bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens - 10 mA.

After installation of all elements, the wiring is checked for safety of use and operability by specialists of certified electrical centers and laboratories. They conduct comprehensive tests:

inspect the wiring for correct installation;
measure the zero-phase resistance of the ground loop and insulation;
check the operation of the RCD and machines.

The test results are recorded in the protocol. It must be presented to energy sales representatives who will come to seal the electric meter.

Most often, wooden houses are built in suburban areas. The advantage of these buildings lies in the low material costs of construction and the high speed of construction. The main disadvantage of this solution is the high probability of ignition in the event of an emergency in the wiring. As a result of sparks and short circuits, the walls and ceiling will easily catch fire. Hence the high requirements for cable laying in structures with combustible surfaces in the PUE and other NTD. Therefore, let's figure out how the electrical wiring in a wooden house should be carried out safely, in accordance with GOSTs and PUE.

Requirements

Lighting
Sockets
Powerful electrical appliances

Be sure to protect these groups with individual machines and RCDs. A residual current device must be installed on the circuits from which the water heater, electric boiler, dishwasher and washing machine and other powerful consumers are powered, especially if they are located in damp rooms.

Then for a cable with a cross section of 1.5 square meters. mm (lighting circuits) choose an automatic machine with a rated current of 6-10 amperes, and for 2.5 sq. mm - 16 amps.

Group RCDs for sockets or individual consumers must have a leakage current (differential current, aka Id) in the range of 10-30 mA, and a general RCD, it is also called introductory or fire-fighting, is chosen with a leakage current greater than for group ones, for example, 100-300 mA .

Also, a selective RCD is sometimes installed on the input - it differs from the usual one in a long response time. The rated current of the RCD must be higher than the current of the machine that protects this group, that is, AB at 10A - RCD at 16A, AB at 16A - RCD at 25A.

Assembly diagram of a single-phase shield in a wooden house:

If you spent 3 phases on the site, the switchboard diagram may look like:

After the wiring is done and the shield is assembled, we recommend calling an electrician to check everything and possibly eliminate obvious errors. Next, you need to pass acceptance tests, obtain an Acceptance Certificate for connecting to the network, and also call a representative of the RES to seal the meter and introductory machine.

That's the whole step-by-step instruction explaining in detail how electrical wiring is done in a wooden house with your own hands. Be sure to perform electrical wiring according to the PUE and other existing standards. They are designed and assembled on the basis of a large number of accidents that could have been avoided by simply following the rules. We hope that the tips and diagrams provided helped you do the wiring yourself, or at least save some of the installation steps.

A house made of wood is a beautiful, cozy building, but easily combustible, requiring increased attention to the power supply process. Making electrical wiring with your own hands is not an easy task, but doable. You just need to approach the issue responsibly, in compliance with the rules and regulations.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house must meet the main requirement - to be safe. More than half of the fires in buildings of this type occur due to a short circuit in the electrical network due to mechanical damage to the insulation or increased load on the cable.

You can eliminate the risk of fire if you follow the basic requirements:

Proper selection of materials.
Reliable isolation.
Possibility of automatic interruption of power supply.
Regular network diagnostics.

Compliance with these requirements will reduce the likelihood of ignition of wooden structures and ensure the safety of property in both city and country houses.

Regulations

Regulations governing the arrangement of electrical power in wooden buildings are contained in "Rules for electrical installations" (PUE) and in the Code of Practice “Design and installation of electrical installations of residential and public buildings”.

They give criteria for choosing switchgears, conductors, automation, lighting, the terms used and their meaning are indicated.

Electrical wiring is still regulated by Building Codes and Rules ( SNiP).

SNiP 3.05-06-85 describe how to enter a power cable into a living space, and SNiP 31-02- requirements for the device of the power supply system in residential buildings.

Preparation of a power supply project

The first stage of electrification of the object is the preparation of the project. In a private house, drawing up a wiring diagram can be done on your own. To do this, you need a house plan with the placement of furniture, equipment, electrical appliances, the designation of sockets and switches. The place of installation of the switchboard and the passage of cable lines is noted.

The location of the junction boxes is indicated, the maximum power consumption of energy by all devices, the total number of machines and the rated load on the introductory machine are calculated.

Cable selection

After drawing up the electrical circuit, you need to decide which wire to make the wiring in a wooden house: aluminum or copper. The first one is cheaper, the second one is more reliable. Having settled on aluminum, you need to remember that its cross section must be larger than copper, and it is brittle when bent. A more suitable material is copper, the wires of which can withstand temperatures from -50 to +50 ° C.

Having decided in the house, you can proceed to the choice of its brand. For wooden structures, copper non-combustible wire VVG with solid cores and reduced smoke emission is more suitable. It has high anti-corrosion properties and does not deform under temperature changes.

When planning how to conduct wiring in a house, you need to remember the requirements of the Electrical Installation Code for the color of the insulation: the cable cores must be of different colors. This will simplify the process of installation, maintenance and repair.

The choice of devices and automation for the switchboard

The purpose of selecting automatic protection devices is the safety of the network and equipment in emergency situations. Each device has its own purpose. All devices are located in the switchboard.

Circuit breakers protect against voltage overload and short circuit.

(RCD) - from the occurrence of fire and electric shock.

Voltage relay - from load fluctuations that affect the operation of devices.

Combine the functions of a circuit breaker and an RCD and save space when installed in a switchboard.

The integrated use of these devices guarantees the reliable operation of the devices and the safety of people in the room.

Electrical wiring installation - step by step instructions

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house requires preliminary preparation and compliance with step-by-step instructions, consisting of the following steps:

project development and determination of the total capacity of the equipment;
choice of cable, automation devices and electrical appliances;
power supply, connection of circuit breakers, electricity meter;
installation of an electrical panel;
internal cabling;
installation of sockets, switches, lighting devices;
system test.

Such a sequence will show how to properly wire the wiring in the house, and ensure the reliability of its operation. It is important to remember that each step must be carried out in compliance with safety rules: de-energize the room in which work is carried out, do not use bare wires, place all connections and branches in boxes, lay the cable either vertically or horizontally, preventing it from crossing.

Following the step-by-step instructions will allow you to perform the installation qualitatively.

Switchboard installation

The switchboard is designed to receive and distribute electricity in the room. With its installation, all electrical work begins. It does not matter whether the wiring is carried out in a country house, a city cottage or a rural log house.

The shield must be made of non-combustible material, placed in a dry place and locked with a key. Above it, rooms with high humidity cannot be located ( shower room, bathroom, bathroom), and within a radius of half a meter - heating equipment, water and gas supply systems.

An electric meter, an introductory machine, an RCD, grounding buses, voltage relays and machines for different power groups are mounted in the shield.

Grounding device

Any modern house is equipped with household appliances in a metal case, and the possible contact of metal with electricity requires grounding - protecting a person from electric shock through electrical appliances.

You can do it yourself.

A trench 30 cm deep is dug in the form of an equilateral triangle with a side of 1 m. Pins 3 m long and 3 cm in diameter are driven in at the corners, which are connected to each other with a corner by welding.

A hole is cut in one of the corners, a ground wire is attached with a bolt and nut, which is connected to the busbar in the switchboard. Earthing conductors of cables in yellow-green insulation are attached to this bus.

Entering the power cable into the room

Electricity enters the building through a power cable that enters the switchboard. There are two ways to carry out its supply: air and underground.

In the first case, the cable is brought through the air from the electric pole to the house, where it is attached to porcelain fittings. This method is simple and cheap, but has a number of disadvantages: less durable, high probability of damage to the wire by wind, snow, branches.

The underground method is more reliable, but more laborious and expensive. A trench is dug, where an armored cable or in metal pipes is laid. A layer of sand 20 cm thick is poured on top, a signal tape is laid, and the trench is buried.

The main element of the wiring, because it bears the load from all electrical appliances in the house.

Cable laying and connection

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house is carried out along the routes indicated in the project scheme. Junction boxes are mounted on it, fixed, switches, lighting fixtures. In buildings made of wood, wires are used only with special markings, the insulation of which does not ignite even at high temperatures.

"Twisting", "temporaries" are not allowed. The number of turns and bends is best minimized. Where possible, run a whole wire from the machine to the end point.

When doing the installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands, you must remember that the boxes cannot be closed with decorative panels or ceilings that make it difficult to access for maintenance.

Installation of switches and sockets

Overhead sockets and switches are selected based on the calculated current and the possibility of connecting under one frame. Before installation, turn off the power and make sure that there is no voltage in the cable.

The safest way to fix switches and sockets in a wooden structure is to mount them on metal substrates. This will protect against possible sparks when shorted or arcs when the plug is removed. For a wooden house, it is preferable to carbolite, rather than plastic, devices that have great heat resistance and can withstand strong heat.

Methods for open wiring

Open wiring in a wooden house is laid on the inside of the room. The main requirement is that the wire does not directly touch the walls, ceiling or floor and is protected: it is located in the middle of the channel, pipe or has several layers of insulation. Pipes and channels must be made of materials that do not support combustion.

Installation of wiring in a wooden house can be done in several ways:

In a corrugated pipe made of PVC;
In a metal hose;
In PVC pipes or boxes;
On staples;
on ceramic insulators.

The most common options are the use of corrugated pipes and cable channels.

The use of ceramic insulators or "" is becoming popular, when air space remains between the twisted electrical wire and the wall. This option also decorates the home.

Open wiring in a wooden house can combine several options. On walls and ceilings that have a flat surface, you can use plastic boxes, and in other areas - corrugated pipes.

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

Internal wiring in a wooden house has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is the absence of corrugated pipes and cable channels that spoil the appearance of the room. There is no risk of mechanical damage to the cable. On the other hand, the complexity of installation, increased requirements for fire safety, additional financial costs.

Unlike external wiring, it is more difficult to conduct internal wiring in a wooden house. To do this, you need to know more requirements and nuances related to this type of power supply arrangement.

Hidden wiring should not have many turns, because. the cable must be laid in steel or copper pipes. The use of metal hoses and PVC corrugations is allowed only when they are protected with plaster or asbestos gasket.

If a special tool is not required for the installation of external wiring, then it is necessary for a hidden one. It is necessary to drill in horizontal and vertical directions, cutting out seats for insulating boxes. You will have to pull not only wires and cables, but also a large number of steel or copper pipes. The latter fit better, because they bend well, taking the desired shape.

You can conduct wiring in the house with your own hands in an open and closed way. This is done in places where the wire is connected to switches or sockets.

Mounting errors

Typical mistakes when laying the electrical network in the premises:

bending or weakening of the supply cable;
fastening the wire to a wooden structure, which is prohibited by the rules;
installation of hidden wiring using corrugated pipes, metal hoses and plastic boxes;
installation of the switchboard too close to the power cable entry point;
the number of automata is calculated incorrectly: either more or less than necessary.

Wiring test

After installation, the wiring must be tested: conduct a visual inspection, measure the insulation resistance and the ground wire, check the operation of circuit breakers, RCDs or difavtomatov. The reliability of the electrical network must be maximum, because. electrical wiring requires increased attention and regular monitoring.

Wooden houses are a very ancient tradition of Russian architecture. Even in our time, when there is no shortage of modern building materials, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build housing from wood - no one can even compare closely with it in terms of natural warmth and the special comfort created.

Yes, and ordinary citizens - owners of small cottages, most often opt for wood, as the main material for construction. But both permanent and temporary housing in modern conditions cannot do without power supply. In both cases, it is extremely necessary to know how to make the wiring in a wooden house correctly so as not to endanger your health and even life, to ensure the safety of housing and property.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

First of all, it is necessary to warn home craftsmen who believe that if they can fix a socket or a switch in an apartment, they know how to distinguish zero from a phase using a conventional indicator, then they can safely take on independent wiring in a country wooden house. Not everything is so simple - a wooden structure is characterized by an increased fire hazard, and the requirements for laying power here are completely different.

Poor electrical wiring is the most common cause of fires

The bleak statistics show that the overwhelming number of fires that occur in wooden buildings are directly related to violations of the installation and operation of electrical appliances or wiring. By and large, you should not take on the independent laying of electrical lines at all - this is the lot of qualified specialists. However, any owner of wooden housing needs to know the basic rules, although would in order to evaluate the existing cabling or to control the work of the called electricians, since it is quite possible to run into "hacks" who perform work on the principle " it's okay, it will do".

So, what are the basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden structure:

The probability of cable ignition with the transmission of open fire to the wooden structure of the building in the event of a short circuit should be completely excluded or minimized to the limit.
The physical, technical and operational characteristics of the wires and electrical fittings used must correspond with a sufficient margin to the total power consumption at each specific section of the wiring, taking into account peak loads. Any manifestations of heating of cables or terminal connections are unacceptable.
The condition of the wiring must completely eliminate the risk of electric shock to people or pets.

The problem of aesthetics in a wooden structure should go by the wayside. There are many acceptable ways to solve this issue as well (this will be discussed below). But you should never seek to improve the interior design of premises at the expense of even a slight decrease in the level of security - this is fraught with disastrous consequences.

The complexity of independent work on laying in a wooden house is also in the fact that there is no single regulatory document. Experienced craftsmen with extensive experience know the basic requirements for it and the technological methods for their implementation. It’s not so easy to pick up the necessary information, scattered but SNiPam, GOSTs and PUE (electrical installation rules), and it is often too specialized in nature, understandable only to a person with a specialized education.

The main objective of this publication is to give the owners of wooden houses a basic understanding of how to install electrical wiring. As an instruction on how to make wiring in a wooden house, addressed to an unprepared person, for completely independent electrical work, it should not be considered.

The entrance of the electric line to the house

This — very responsible area, which for some reason the owners often forget about, focusing on the internal wiring. The principle probably works - it has been standing for a long time and fully justifies itself. Meanwhile, the introduction of a power cable into the house could have been carried out for a very long time, using old technologies that no longer meet modern requirements. The equipment of houses with electrical appliances has grown literally at times, respectively, and energy consumption has also increased. Yes, and the cable part itself can become hopelessly outdated - the insulation bursts under long-term exposure to the sun and temperature changes, exposing metal cores and reducing the safety of the wiring.

Such a cable entry through a wooden wall is a “time bomb”

A particularly vulnerable area is the passage of the cable through the wooden wall of the attic. At one time, it was believed that cutting a rubber hose was enough for safety. However, such a knot is fraught with a considerable threat - the composition of rubber contains a considerable percentage of soot, which in itself is carbon, i.e. conductive material. As such an “insulator” ages, electrical conductivity bridges with a sufficiently high resistivity appear. There may be areas of local heating, sparking, and for dry roof gable boards this may be quite enough.

In a word, if the goal is to completely update the wiring and bring it to a truly safe state, then you need to start from here.

There are two ways to bring a power line into a house - overhead and underground.

The underground method is considered more reliable, since the cable is completely hidden and not subject to external influences. However, this is a rather costly method that will require significant excavation. The cable must be located at a depth of at least 0.8 m, the security zone must be marked with signs. The passage through the foundation and entry into the house is carried out with the obligatory installation of metal sleeves from thick-walled pipes.

As a rule, it makes sense to organize such a connection only when, thinking over the passage of communications in advance. If the power line is laid in an already built house, then it is easier and cheaper to use overhead wiring.

It is strictly forbidden to carry out any independent electrical work on the poles of power lines - only a highly qualified electrician with the appropriate approval has the right to do this.

An approximate diagram of the required placement of overhead wiring from power lines to the house is shown in the figure.

The section of the line from the pole to the house is usually made of wire with a cross section of at least 16 mm. Basically, a SIP cable (self-supporting insulated wire) is used, which has a high-strength sheath made of cross-linked polyethylene, resistant to infrared radiation and thermal shock. The service life of such a wire should be at least 25 years.

However, this line never starts inside the house. According to existing rules, it is strictly forbidden to lay cables with an aluminum current-carrying part along combustible structural elements. And since we are talking about a wooden house, then starting from the entrance and up to The last socket or light bulb uses only copper conductors.

For the section from the line connection to the inlet switchgear, it is recommended to use the VVGng cable. The additional index "ng" indicates the incombustibility of its insulating coating. This cable fully meets the requirements for fixed wiring both indoors and outdoors. However, for greater reliability, it is also recommended to enclose it in a corrugated polymer pipe, which has the appropriate certification in accordance with the current fire safety rules NPB 246-97. The plastic from which the “corrugation” is made belongs to self-extinguishing, non-combustible materials.

Always carried out outside the building. Currently, for this, special hermetic compresses are most often used, providing reliable contact without the possibility of oxidation and sparking.

The sections of VVGng passage through the walls of the house and attic or interfloor floors must be enclosed in a metal sleeve made of a thick-walled pipe. This precaution has several purposes:

The cable part will be protected from damage that may be caused by displacements of building structures, for example, due to shrinkage of the house or ground vibrations.
The metal sheath will prevent the spread of fire to wooden structures to the maximum extent in case of an emergency - overheating or ignition of the cable.
The cable in vulnerable places hidden from view receives protection from domestic rodents.

The pipe wall thickness is a regulated value. So, if a wire with a cross section of up to 4 mm² is used, it should be 2.8 mm, and when using more powerful cables - from 6 to 10 mm² - even 3.2 mm. This will eliminate the possibility of burning the pipe wall if a short circuit occurs inside it.

The same rule applies to all sections of the house wiring in a wooden building, without any exception.

The next important section is from the entrance to the house to the switchboard (according to the accepted terminology, the introductory switchgear - VUR). What is the special specificity of this section - it remains unprotected by automation from overloads or short circuits and, as a rule, is not in sight, often passing through attic or utility rooms. You should not rely on the automation of an electrical substation - there are completely different levels of operation.

There are several ways to radically solve this problem:

The entire section of the cable to the ASU can be enclosed in a metal pipe with the same parameters as mentioned above. However, this becomes possible only with its small length - up to 2.5 - 3 meters and the absence of a large number of turns. Push a sufficiently rigid cable for considerable distances in the gap T t ruby will be simply impossible.
It seems optimal to install a circuit breaker in a sealed box immediately before the line enters the building. At the same time, the threshold for its operation selects a step higher than that of the main AZ, which is installed on the ASU. So, if a 25 A machine is installed on the shield, then 32 A should be set on the outside.

This will protect the vulnerable area from overload, but at the same time, if such a situation occurs in the internal house wiring, the automatic switch on the ASP will work, and there will be no need to get to the external AZ.

There is another option, when both the machine and the energy metering devices are taken out by the power supply organizations in general on the outer wall of the building or even on the power line poles. This, of course, is reliable, but not always convenient for the owners of the house.

Switchboard installation

The line from entering the house directly, without any branches, leads to the switchboard - ASU. What are its main components:

A metal or plastic box with places for placing an electric meter and additional protection devices, a DIN rail for AZ, tires - zero and ground loop. The dimensions of the box are not regulated, so it’s better not to save money in this case, and install it with the expectation of a further possible “upgrade” - retrofitting, the need for which may arise as it expands electrical equipment Houses.
Sealed electricity meter.
The main introductory circuit breaker, two-pole or three-pole, which is usually also sealed by the power supply organization.
DIN-rail mounted single-pole AZ. Their number may vary. Typically, the power grid at home is divided into zones - each them they will correspond to your machine of a certain power. So, a kitchen, one or more rooms are separated into separate zones, which can also be divided into lighting and a socket group. Often a separate zone is the lighting of the yard, the power supply of the garage and outbuildings, external sockets that are used for chores on the territory.

The power of the machines is calculated for each zone individually. They are guided by the rule that it should provide overload operation on the weakest section of the local wiring. The lower the rating, the higher the safety of the operation of electrical appliances. So, if ordinary sockets have a permissible limit of 16 A, then the AZ should not exceed this value.

RCD - a device for protective shutdown of power supply when a leakage current is detected. Due to the considerable cost of such a device, many simply neglect it. However, although it is not mandatory, it is still better not to be stingy, purchase and include it in the overall power supply system. The RCD will reliably protect residents from electric shock when using electrical appliances, and will not allow emergency situations in the network. It acquires special significance in areas with high humidity - kitchens, bathrooms, baths, boiler rooms, external fittings in yards, garages, etc. The selection of the RCD rating and its installation should be carried out by a qualified electrician, since several parameters are taken into account here - the total load of the site (maximum current) and leakage current.

The RCD can be installed on the entire intra-house network, but in this case there is a high probability of frequent false alarms, and besides, it will be very difficult to identify the source of a potential security threat. More convenient, but, true, and more expensive way becomes setting RCD also with zoning, similar to AZ.

Video: RCD installation example

All hardware of the switchboard must be exclusively from trusted manufacturers, have the appropriate certificates of conformity. It is important to remember that in many respects these are responsible for the safety of the owners and the safety of the building.

Prices for residual current devices (RCD)

Residual current devices (RCD)

How to make wiring in a wooden house - from the shield to the points of consumption

Now about one of the main points of the wiring device in a wooden house - the sections from the switchboard to the connection points for electrical appliances.

First of all, a few words about . Twisting must be avoided, even when using thick copper conductors of the same section. Soldering wires is allowed, followed by closing the bare part with plastic caps. The best solution would be to use special spring or screw terminal connections (for example, WAGO terminals). This is not so expensive, but it will provide both reliable contact and the required protection against short circuits. In addition, such connections are easy to check and, if necessary, replace.

The best solution for a wooden house is the open wiring on the walls. There are opportunities to place it hidden, but this will require large-scale and expensive work.

Methods for open wiring

For a long time, it has been used to place internal wiring cables on wooden structural elements on insulating rollers, providing a safe gap of 10 mm from the wall.

In the houses of the old building, in some places such wiring has been preserved to this day.

There are numerous fans of this retro style ...

By the way, this method of fastening has become fashionable again - many owners prefer such retro wiring. For this, special twisted cables of various colors are even produced.

… and you can even purchase special wiring

Video: retro wiring on wooden walls

However, to take such approaches seriously d for the organization of all internal wiring is hardly appropriate. The number of electrical appliances and, accordingly, points of consumption in the average house has increased significantly, and laying many highways from the switchboard on rollers over the wall will look simply ridiculous.

Single cables with a cross section of less than 6 mm² can be placed directly on the wall surface, fixing them with electrotechnical clips appropriate size. The main condition for this is the presence of double (or even triple) cable insulation. For such purposes, the already mentioned wires of the brand VVGng or NIM are suitable. If wires are used in ordinary insulation, then a fireproof gasket (asbestos or metal) will be required, protruding at least 10 mm on both sides of the cable, and this is unlikely to decorate the interior of the room.
Wiring can be placed in a polymer electrical pipe. The advantage of this approach is that several wires can be placed in one pipe. It will already look a little better than single cables, but still the aesthetics in this case are “lame” - the corrugation is not easy to place perfectly evenly, even using clips. But on the other hand, the wires receive additional protection from external damage and the required clearance from the wall is created.

For inconspicuous wiring areas, for example, for utility or technical rooms, this method is probably optimal. However, it also has a drawback - if it is necessary to replace a single cable, you will have to remove the corrugated lining from the entire bundle of wires.

Find out some of the available ways in our new article.

A sleeve made of a metal pipe at the place where the wires pass through the ceiling

The growing popularity of polymer cable channels, closed with a removable cover . They are produced in various sizes, which means that it is possible to choose them both for a single wire and for several parallel lines. They are made of non-flammable plastic, which increases the safety of the wiring.

Such boxes can be selected according to the most suitable color - they are not only white, but also toned or having a decorative "wood-like" coating that will go well with the material of the walls.

A special advantage of such channels is the simplicity of preventive or installation work with the cable part - you can always remove the cover to replace a problem cable or add a new connection.

Considering that there are a lot of additional accessories for such cable channels- turns, external and internal corner elements, tees, plugs, etc., the owners can use them to solve the problem of the required decorativeness of the electrical wiring.

Video: open wiring in a wooden house using cable channels

Another kind of similar cable channels are electrical skirting systems. They are also equipped with all the necessary elements for straight sections, turns, corners, rises to sockets and switches, junction boxes. This allows you to maintain the overall style of the room, despite the fact that, in fact, the wiring will be considered open.

Important note - installation cable channels should be carried out only after the initial shrinkage of the house and on condition that the wood of the walls is well dried. Otherwise, even minor changes in the “geometry” of the room can cause deformation and even destruction of the boxes.

They also resort to placing open wiring in pipes, metal or polymer. You can’t call this technology convenient - each straight section is threaded separately, then a transitional or rotary coupling is installed, and so on. Of course, the need to replace the cable part will also cause a lot of difficulties. This approach is rather a tribute to fashion, but by no means the optimal solution for outdoor wiring.

Sockets and switches installed with open wiring must necessarily have a non-flammable gasket at the bottom. Well, if it is provided by their very design. If not, then you will have to cut out sites from asbestos or metal.

You should immediately calculate the required number of outlets in a particular place in the room. The use of tees or extension cords during the operation of electrical appliances should be reduced to a minimum, and even better, completely eliminated.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

If the owners of the housing nevertheless prevail, the desire to completely hide the wiring, then they will face very large-scale work.

To ensure complete fire safety, all wires must be replaced with a fireproof sheath, which can only be a steel or copper pipe. The inner cavity of the steel pipe must be either painted or galvanized to prevent corrosion of the walls.

All transitions and turns are performed using threaded elements or by welding (soldering).
The horizontal sections of the pipes must have a slight slope so that the condensate formed in the cavity has an outlet to the outside. Special holes are also provided in those places where moisture accumulation is most likely.

Only metal sockets are installed in the holes cut out for hidden placement of sockets and switches, which must be connected to the ground loop.

All branchings are carried out only in junction boxes, which must also be hermetically connected to the pipes.
The entire pipe loop must be grounded. to remove possible static voltage from it and prevent electric shock in the event of a possible violation of the cable insulation.

To prevent contact of the wire insulation with the sharp edges of the pipe, a centering plastic plug must be installed at the outlet.

Video: placing hidden wiring in metal pipes

Hidden wiring is allowed in another way - according to the outline of the plaster layer with a thickness of at least 10 mm. However, this is rarely used, at least for the reasons that covering natural wood with plaster is probably not the best option.

If you look at photos or videos posted on the Internet, you can see a lot of examples when hidden wiring is placed in metal or plastic, or simply bundles of wires are laid in strobes made in wood. What no matter what “authoritative” masters write, who convince that such a method is completely safe, this is a gross violation of existing requirements. It is hardly worth laying such a "time bomb" in your wooden house - the stakes are too high!

The article mentioned the ground loop more than once. However, this question is so peculiar and important that it deserves a completely separate detailed publication, which will definitely find its place on the pages of our portal.

A wooden house pleases its inhabitants with lightness and indescribable comfort. But wood, for all its merits, is a combustible material that requires increased attention from the point of view of fire safety. But since the need to equip a house with electricity is not discussed today, before starting work, you need to carefully read the rules for installing electrical equipment (PUE) and the provisions of GOSTs. There are no particular difficulties in observing these rules, but you need to know about them.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

Codes of rules for PUE and SNiP are developed by security experts. This is not a whim of an armchair official, but a list of necessary norms, the observance of which brings the level of "carelessness" as close as possible to the desired one. It can be said that life itself writes these dry chapters, behind which human tragedies are sometimes hidden.

The main cause of fires in wooden buildings is a short circuit in the electrical wiring.

Fire statistics unfortunately leave no doubt that timber construction is always at the forefront of fire risk. However, if you remember that for hundreds (or maybe thousands) of years our ancestors lived in wooden log cabins, there is hope that everything is possible, you just need to correctly deal with the wiring. After all, it is in the vast majority of cases that it causes a fire.

The main requirements contained in the PUE and GOSTs are as follows:

The calculation of the wiring should be made with a margin of up to 30%. This applies primarily to the selection of the cross-sectional area of the wires, since the degree of heating of the insulation and the likelihood of a short circuit during operation depend on this. In order to cover the whole picture of electrification as a whole, it is necessary to prepare a working draft with a detailed diagram and specification of electrical wiring, and upon completion of work, get certified and receive a wiring passport.
The quality of the connections should not allow the slightest possibility of electric shock to the inhabitants of the house.
Heating and ignition of cables is unacceptable, as this will most likely lead to arson of the entire house. The possibility of short circuits must be completely excluded.

The PUE welcomes the installation of lighting in wooden houses using 12-volt lamps and LED equipment, which is considered the safest today. For example, in mines and mines, especially those where methane gas accumulates and an explosion can occur from a single spark, all equipment is powered by a current of 12 volts. The same is done in cars.

A significant obstacle that makes it difficult to independently carry out work on installing wiring in a wooden house is the lack of a single document regulating the installation. The main regulations are dispersed in the regulatory documents of GOST and SNiP and are not systematized. Therefore, when drafting a project, it is better to contact a specialized organization that has a license for this kind of activity.

Preparation of a power supply project

Project documentation should include all the details of future wiring. It displays the location of lighting fixtures, sockets, mounting boxes, switchboard. The specification describes in detail the brands of conductors used for wiring, their total number and ratings. All electrical devices involved in the power supply scheme, such as an electric meter, RAM, automatic machines and others, are calculated in advance for compliance with the loads that are expected during operation.

A power supply project usually includes a wiring diagram indicating the markings of the cables used, the type of devices installed and the estimated load on each of them

The presence of a project is a sign of a civilized and responsible approach to business.

You can, of course, separate the cables without it, but:

practice shows that wiring without a preliminary project, as a rule, costs 10-15% more. At the same time, errors are possible, the correction of which also costs money;
in the event of a fire, the insurance company will require a certified home electrification plan. In its absence, the coverage of damages will be postponed for an indefinite period (until the circumstances are clarified). Well, if only one house burns down. In densely populated areas, a fire can spread to neighboring areas. The culprit will be the owner of the wooden structure from where the fire began to spread. The only way to prove your innocence is to present a certified plan for the electrification of the premises;
the presence of a plan significantly reduces the cost of preventive and repair work on electrical wiring during further operation, and also helps to quickly find and eliminate the source of damage to the power supply.

A full-fledged project consists not only of drawings, but also of a detailed description of all elements and equipment. It usually includes:

A graphic representation of all levels of the living space, on which, using the accepted symbols, the locations of the cable routes, consumers and electrical equipment are reflected.
Single-line electrical supply schemes.
Detailed calculations of ground loops.
Cross-sectional area of conductors.
List of switching devices.
The maximum current and voltage of the meter.
Calculations of the power of electrical receiving devices.

In addition, the project must provide for outdoor lighting of the site and the connection of courtyard buildings - a bathhouse, a garage, utility rooms.

The electrical wiring project of a private house must contain a calculation and diagram of the outdoor lighting device for the adjacent territory

Project documentation is developed in several stages:

Formulation of the problem. Power supply is planned in accordance with the terms of reference and conditions. The customer expresses his vision to the contractor orally or with the help of a schematic image. As one of the options, a design project can serve as an order form.
Development and approval of the project. If necessary, the project is defended and coordinated with representatives of inspection organizations. The parameters of electrification and their compliance with regulatory documentation are being specified.
Project implementation support. Sometimes it is also called supervised installation, during which the designer exercises direct control over the execution of work.

Calculation of the cable section

The calculation of conductors consists in determining two parameters:

In conditions of increased requirements for fire safety, the rules require the use of three-core wires without fail. This measure is dictated by the need for protective grounding of the entire power supply system.

In private houses, wiring should be carried out with a three-core cable: one core is a phase wire, the second is zero, the third is grounding

Table: selection of cable section depending on the current strength

Section of cable laid openly	Single-phase switching, 220 V		Three-phase switching, 380 V		Cross section of the cable laid in the pipe
Section of cable laid openly	continuous current when heating the cable up to 60 o C	power, kWt	continuous current when heating the cable up to 60 o C	power, kWt	Cross section of the cable laid in the pipe
0,5	10	2,2
0,75	13	2,8
1	15	3,3	12	8	1,5
1,5	20	4,4	18	12	2,5
2,5	30	6,6	27	18	4
4	40	8,8	35	23	6
6	50	11	45	30	10
10	75	16,5	65	43	16

Calculation of electrical installation devices

Electrical installation devices - sockets, switches and junction boxes are selected based on the technological conditions of their operation.

Selection of input cable and circuit breaker at the input

Of great importance in ensuring the safety of electrical wiring is the correct input of electricians inside the house. When choosing a cable and a circuit breaker, it should be borne in mind that in the future the load on it will only increase - the number of household appliances and units that are used at home increases over time.

The cross section of the input cable must be calculated for the future: over time, the number of electrical appliances used and their total power consumption will only increase

The task of an electrician is to choose a cable that will allow the use of electrical appliances without the risk of overvoltage of the lead-in conductor. The optimal placement of the introductory circuit breaker (AB) is considered to be its location in front of the meter. Its task is to turn off the internal network in case of excessive current consumption, for example, in case of a short circuit. But at the same time, it should not turn off at the maximum allowable load. In order to calculate the rating of the input AB independently, use the formula I nom \u003d P / U x cos (f), where I nom is the rated current, P is the total power of all devices, cos (f) is the power factor, which for most electrical appliances can be consider equal to one. 10% is added to the obtained value of the rated current and a circuit breaker is selected relative to it. Most often, in a private house, AB with a rating of 25 A is enough.

The introductory circuit breaker must withstand the maximum load from all switched on electrical appliances, but open the network when too high currents appear, for example, from a short circuit

Three-phase power supply of a private house

The vast majority of wooden houses use single-phase power. But if it is planned to use high-powered units - for example, powerful electric welding or woodworking machines - a three-phase current supply is necessary. In this case, to calculate the installation devices, you must contact a specialist. Calculations are made according to more complex formulas and in relation to a specific situation.

Do-it-yourself wiring installation in a wooden house

If there is an agreed project, executed in accordance with all legislative norms, you can carry out the installation of electrical wiring yourself. To do this, stock up on the necessary tools and materials, as well as familiarize yourself with the safety rules. Consider the main stages of electrification of the house.

Switchboard installation

The switchboard is the main point of power management. It is a cabinet, inside of which there are devices for monitoring and recording the consumed current. It can be metal or made of dielectric plastic.

The switchboard contains control and monitoring devices for the electrical network: meters, circuit breakers, residual current devices, etc.

The shield is mounted in a convenient place for use, at a height of 1.5 to 1.7 m from the floor surface. Most often, it is located near the front door in such a way that when leaving you can turn off the electricity, and when you return, turn it on. An introductory cable is connected from the power lines to the shield, then the electricity is distributed throughout the house. Inside the shield is installed:

electricity consumption meter;
circuit breakers on a DIN rail;
RCD (residual current device);
tires for grounding and zero circuit output.

An introductory circuit breaker can also be located here, but it is also practiced to locate it outside the house at the point where the overhead line is connected to the home network. This option is not without meaning, since the risk of excessive load on the input cable is significantly reduced.

The switchboard is installed first. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of automation, using proven and reliable brands of devices from well-known manufacturers.

Video: switchboard overview for a private house

Entering the cable into the room

There are two options for entering the cable from the power line into the house.

Air method, which uses a self-supporting insulated conductor.
Underground method, when the cable is brought into the room from underground.

The first option is more common due to speed and economy. The second is more expensive, but has a number of advantages, such as a long service life and independence from atmospheric disasters.

The underground cable entry method is more laborious, but more reliable and durable.

In any case, the rules prescribe to lead the cable into a wooden house through a metal thick-walled (from 2.5 to 3.3 mm) pipe. Its inside must be painted or galvanized, and the installation is carried out at an angle of 3–5 ° to the horizontal plane so that the resulting condensate can freely flow out (GOST R 50571.15–97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2).

The cable is led into a wooden house through a metal sleeve, which is placed at an angle to organize the drainage of condensate

The installation of a metal sleeve and cable entry is always carried out from the outside of the wall. The installer must be suitably qualified and authorized. Most often, this work is performed by employees of the energy supply organization.

Video: cable entry into the house and connection to the shield

Installation of switches and sockets

In wooden buildings there are certain nuances in the installation of switches and sockets.

If hidden wiring is installed, the sockets, in accordance with the PUE, should only be metal. Despite the fact that the contact pair of modern switches is securely hidden inside a plastic (or ceramic) base, a microspark occurs with each use of the device. The same thing happens in the outlet when the plug is plugged into it. In ordinary stone walls, this is not dangerous. But in dry wood, in which wood dust can also accumulate, such a spark can lead to the most unforeseen consequences.
In wooden houses, hidden wiring can be done, but all electrical appliances must be installed in metal sockets
For outdoor wiring, when the cables approach the sockets and switches along the wall surface, dielectric plates are used to separate the device from the wood. You should not neglect this, it is better to think in advance about how to make such a lining aesthetic. Retail chains offer a wide variety of protective pads for every taste and color from plastic to metal. According to the rules, the size of the site should cover the wall by 10 cm on each side (counted from the basement).
For safety reasons, when wiring outdoors, electrical appliances are placed on dielectric plates.

Otherwise, the installation of sockets and switches is no different from installation in a stone building.

First, the wall is marked. It is best to use a building level or a laser level.
Next, socket boxes or protective pads are installed.
The base of the device is mounted on them.
After connecting to the wires, the outer casing is attached.

All of the above applies to junction boxes as well. It is recommended to design wiring in such a way as to minimize their number.

Wire connection

Based on the same prerequisites for increased fire hazard, it is recommended to connect conductors in wooden buildings using factory terminal blocks. Twisting is allowed only in the case of additional soldering of current-carrying wires and using plastic caps.

Wire connections must be made using special terminal blocks, twists can only be used as a last resort

Grounding and installation of RCD

Residual current device (RCD) is designed to protect people (and pets) from electric shock in case of possible leakage on damaged insulation or the metal case of household appliances.

In the electrical wiring diagram in a private house, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an RCD device that protects against electric shock in case of accidental leaks

The device is able to detect minimal leakage and react to it by opening the circuit. The level of sensitivity depends on the brand of the device. The choice is made according to the main parameter - the leakage current, which is expressed in milliamps. If the RCD is included in the whole house protection circuit, a leakage current value of 30 mA is sufficient. If the device is intended to protect individual premises, for example, a bathroom or a bathroom, a higher sensitivity of 10 mA is selected. The RCD is installed in the switchboard. The connection diagram provides for the location of the RCD in front of the circuit breakers.

The residual current device for the common circuit of the house is selected for a leakage current of 30 mA

Video: connecting a circuit breaker and RCD

The same tasks are assigned to the grounding of all electrical installations inside the house. Separately, we can say about the grounding device. In order for the stray current removal system to work properly, you need to follow the recommendations for self-arrangement of the ground strip.

The ground loop consists of three metal plates fixed on reinforcing pins.

To do this, you will need metal fittings of three meters in length and three meter pieces of corners.

Do not forget about the seasonal expansion and contraction of the metal under the influence of changing air temperature.

To prevent the ground bus from breaking, a “compensation hump” is made in it, which is designed to absorb thermal changes.

Methods for open wiring

In practice, three types of external wiring are used in wooden houses:

Corrugated wiring. Cables run inside a plastic or metal corrugated sleeve. The advantage of this wiring is the low cost of materials and the speed of installation. The corrugation is attached to the ceilings and walls with the help of special clips. The disadvantage is the ability of corrugated sleeves to accumulate dust, which is difficult to remove from them. In addition, over time, the wiring can sag, and it needs to be tightened.
Laying cables in corrugated hoses is very simple and convenient
Wiring in cable channels. One of the most popular types of wiring today. This is due to the fact that recently manufacturers have begun to produce a large assortment of connecting fittings, with which you can wire wires in any configuration without compromising the appearance. The main advantage of this type of wiring is affordability, speed of installation and a high level of maintainability. In this way, cable channels compare favorably with corrugations, which, in the event of repair of wiring, will have to be completely replaced. A big plus of wiring in cable channels is the availability of cables and the possibility of updating them if necessary. The only thing to keep in mind when installing cable channels is house shrinkage. Newly built wooden houses shrink significantly (up to 5% per year). And this means that the wiring lines can be deformed.
Wiring in the cable channel allows you to have access to cables at any time
Retro wiring. Quite a popular trend in interior design. It consists in the fact that the wires are fixed on the walls with the help of ceramic insulators in an open way. The cable is twisted in the manner of a twisted pair and in this form is pulled to lamps or sockets. The solution is not new, this is how wires were laid in residential premises 60-70 years ago, but at the same time it perfectly complies with safety standards - the cable does not touch the wall, remaining at a distance of 10 mm from the surface.
Retro wiring looks very aesthetically pleasing and meets electrical safety standards as much as possible

The choice entirely depends on the aesthetic inclinations of the inhabitants of the house. On sale there are all the necessary materials to realize your preferences in terms of design solutions.

Video: outdoor wiring in a cable channel in a wooden house

Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house

If, for some reason, the customer is not satisfied with the external location of the wiring in the house, the cables are bred in a hidden way. In a wooden structure, this is a rather time-consuming and painstaking procedure. Each wire, regardless of its thickness, must be packed in a metal tube. Sockets and junction boxes must also be made of metal. Pipes are supposed to be protected from corrosion. To do this, they must be painted from the inside with moisture-resistant enamels, and to drain condensate, drill small holes at certain intervals. For the same purpose, it is necessary to place the pipe at an angle so that drops of moisture can flow out. To avoid damage to the insulation, the ends of the pipes are cleaned from sharp burrs and are additionally equipped with plastic tips.

For a hidden wiring device in a wooden house, cables inside the walls are laid in metal pipes and led out into niches covered with metal sockets

The best material for such wiring is copper pipe. Its cost is quite high, but due to the plasticity of the metal, bends can be made without special equipment. A steel pipe is much cheaper, and threaded adapters and spurs are provided to give it the necessary shape.
Steel pipes are cheaper than copper pipes, and there are special fittings for bending them.
If the wiring is installed at the construction stage, hiding it in the walls is simplified. Especially if it is a frame structure. In houses made of logs or timber, all wiring channels are cut out in the walls after they are erected.
For laying cables in wooden walls, strobes can be cut
Another way, allowed by the PUE standards for wooden buildings, is to locate the wiring inside the plaster applied over the wood. This method was practiced in old buildings - shingles (plywood reinforcement) were stuffed onto the logs and a layer of cement plaster was thrown. According to the rules, the plaster layer in this case should be from 10 mm on all sides. The modern analogue of this technology is the sheathing of a wooden wall with drywall, which in essence is dry plaster. With a standard drywall sheet thickness of 12.5 mm, the wall must be covered in two layers.
If you put a drywall sheet on top of a wooden wall or ceiling, hidden wiring can be done under it.

A big disadvantage of hidden wiring in a wooden structure is the inaccessibility of cables. If any problems occur, it will be very difficult to replace the old cable with a new one. However, this type of wiring has its fans. Especially among designers who are primarily concerned with the aesthetic solution of the home.

Video: hidden wiring in a wooden frame

Wiring test

After completing the installation, the customer needs to invite employees of the electrical laboratory. The purpose of the test is to measure the resistance of the system as a whole, ground resistance and test all automation: RCDs, circuit breakers, current flow meters. If all parameters correspond to the norm, the customer receives a protocol signed by a responsible person. This document is presented to the service company when concluding an agreement for the supply of an object with electricity.

After the work is completed, it is necessary to invite a specialist to check the system and obtain a test report for the electrical wiring

When carrying out the wiring installation activities yourself, it is important to observe personal safety measures. Electric shock can cause irreparable harm to health, cause death. Installation is carried out only when the power supply is switched off. Putting the equipment into operation is carried out in the presence of an authorized representative of the design organization.