Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house - installation rules, step-by-step instructions. How to make wiring in a wooden house: we make hidden wiring from the panel to points of consumption Make electrical wiring in a wooden house

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is a more responsible event than laying conductive routes in a brick or concrete structure. This is due to the specifics of the material: wood burns, even if it is impregnated with a compound that prevents ignition from accidental coal.

The importance of correct installation

The temperature of the electric arc that occurs when the conductors are short-circuited through which the current runs with a voltage of standard 220 V can reach 5000 ° C (!). No fire-prevention impregnation helps from the temperature that melts steel.

Despite this, the wiring in a log house of rounded logs or a frame country house is often done "slipshod", if not negligent.

This is usually motivated by a reluctance to bother with the dacha, where they live for two to three months a year. But it is worth understanding: poorly made internal wiring of a wooden house can leave you without this very house.

Please note that "poor quality" primarily means "not according to the rules provided for a wooden house." The usual practice of installing a household electrical network in an apartment or a brick house is not suitable for a wooden one due to the combustibility of the building material.

What the regulations say

Electrical installation rules - PUE - give an unequivocal answer to this question. Concealed wiring in the voids of partitions made of combustible materials is permissible only in metal pipes that have the property of localization.

SNiP gives a more vague wording, therefore it is recommended to be guided by the PUE. By combustible material is meant just wood, even with a fireproof impregnation.

Under the metal pipe - a steel or copper pipe of a square or round profile with a regulated wall thickness of at least 2.8 mm for any cable with a conductor cross-section of up to 4 mm.

For cables with a cross section of 6-10 mm, the pipe wall thickness should be 3.2 mm.

In this case, it is forbidden to tightly "hammer" the pipe with cables - the cable should occupy no more than 40% of the clearance.

To enter the cable from the power line into a wooden house, only a thick-walled steel sleeve is used.

This requirement is due to the following situation. In the event of a short circuit during cable breakdown, only a thick-walled pipe is able to withstand the flash until it self-extinguishes or the circuit breaker is triggered.

The use of metal hoses or other "armor" made of corrugated metal or plastic for hidden wiring in a wooden house is unacceptable for the following reasons:

The main "unofficial" rule of high-quality wiring in chopped wooden houses is the prevalence of safety over external beauty.

Laying in pipes

Laying wiring in steel or copper pipes, observing the above requirements, is possible only at the stage of building a house from scratch.

For example, when installing electrical wiring in a house made of laminated veneer lumber, the installation of a system of such pipes, junction boxes and sockets (also metal) is carried out at the stage of installing the frame.

The rules for hidden wiring of power cables in a wooden house do not allow laying the cable in a metal or plastic corrugation in the cut-out grooves. inside the walls of a wooden house in thick-walled pipes is acceptable, but difficult due to the need to bend pipes and make complex connections using couplings, fittings or welding.

There are a number of requirements that must be observed when installing hidden wiring in a wooden house.

The inner surface of steel pipes should be painted or galvanized to avoid corrosion, copper pipes - painted to protect against oxides.

The use of a metal hose / steel corrugation on bends and transitions makes the whole structure meaningless - transitions are provided by threaded connections or butt-to-butt welding.

Horizontally, electrical wiring pipes in a wooden house are laid at a slight angle for condensate to escape, at the lowest point a hole is made for the liquid to drain (not inside the wall). A ground connection is provided for the entire system - separate from the ground provided by wiring.

In wooden houses, only metal sockets are used for sockets and switches. The connections of the junction box with the pipes entering it must be tight.

In order to avoid damage to the cable sheathing with a sharp edge when exiting the pipe, the edge should be rolled up or provided with a protective plastic plug.

Open wiring - installation features

If a wooden house has already been built, but there is a need to replace the wiring in it, then this can be done without sawing the grooves in wooden partitions, which are often not too thick and durable in themselves.

Recall that aluminum wire, the most popular among electricians of past years, is categorically unacceptable in a wooden house due to its tendency to fracture and fire hazard.

Open wiring in a wooden house is quite possible. Here are some options.

You can run the cable directly along the wall of the house, enclosing it in a standard plastic corrugation or metal flexible armor.

The open method allows this wiring method, since the fire site in the event of a short circuit will be visible immediately. There will be no fire inside the wall.

Wall mounting is carried out with conventional corrugation clips.

Wiring in standard cable ducts - the same method as for an apartment, only between the cable duct and a wooden wall a non-combustible gasket made of asbestos or, for example, felt, must be provided. A type of such wiring is wiring disguised as a baseboard.

A fresh look at old methods. The wiring is mounted on the wall of a wooden house on ceramic or plastic (non-combustible) insulators, maintaining a clearance of at least 10 mm from the wall.

A special, "antique" twisted power cable and sockets of the same style are used.

Open installation of a metal pipe system is also possible.

Advantages and disadvantages of surface mounting

All these wiring methods for a wooden house have their own advantages and disadvantages. Installation of wiring on a wooden wall of a house in a corrugated pipe is the easiest way; there are no problems with wiring in the junction box.

The downside is the unaestheticness of this method, as well as the need to remove the entire corrugated pipe as a whole in order to gain access to one cable.

In this respect, the cable channel is preferable, since now on the market you can find the color of the box "under the tree", and to choose an individual shade to match the color of your inner coating.

The cable duct is convenient for installation - it is easy to open and close, and is relatively safe for a wooden house, as it is itself made of non-combustible plastic.

If you wish, you can hide the wires by selecting the "bottom" wiring in the cable channel, disguised as a plinth.

Please note that it is not permissible to terminate wires under a real skirting board!

Lighting or connection of sockets with a load of no more than 16 A can be carried out using semi-antique wiring.

For this, specially stylized wires are produced, insulators between the wall and the wire, sockets and the like. But keep in mind that for a powerful load, like a welding machine, you need to provide an outlet to which a suitable cable with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm is connected.

General installation rules

The wiring device in a wooden house in an open way must be carried out in compliance with the following standards:

the point of entry of the cable from the power line into the wall, as well as the point of passage of the cable through the internal ceilings only in metal thick-walled sleeves;
the distance from the cable to the wall during open installation is not less than 10 mm;
grounding must be installed;
only a cable in a non-combustible sheath is used;
socket boxes and junction boxes in a wooden house made of metal only;
connecting wires to each other only in junction boxes, and only using spring / screw terminals or soldered twisting, which is closed with a cambric or cap;
unsoldered twisting is not allowed.

Be sure to install RCDs to protect against leakage currents, as well as separate circuit breakers for short-circuit protection for each consumer group.

Cable selection

An important stage in the wiring work is the selection of the main cable. Choosing the right cable for wiring means solving the main problem of the safety of a wooden house.

According to modern requirements, a so-called self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire) is used to extend from the power line to the house.

It uses aluminum conductors with a cross section of at least 16 mm, and there is also a steel reinforcing cable (for rigidity).

The sheath of this cable is designed to withstand adverse external factors for at least 25 years.

But the SIP cable can only be laid up to the wall of a wooden house. On the outside of the wall, through special insulators, or better sealed clamps, it is connected to a copper cable, for example VVGng (ng - non-combustible).

The VVGng section is selected as standard - 1.5 mm for the lighting line, 2.5 mm for household appliances, 4 mm for powerful consumers such as an electric stove, electric heating line or a welding machine.

Direct twisting of SIP aluminum conductors with copper conductors of internal wiring is prohibited.

Only copper is used for wiring inside a wooden house. When choosing a brand of wire, use or the already mentioned VVGng, VVGng (P) marked "GOST".

These types of single core copper cables are double insulated, yet flexible enough for easy internal wiring.

You can use German NYM cable - it is equipped with triple non-combustible insulation.

Switchboard device

A general distribution board for wiring in a wooden house must have a metal case.

Inside the switchboard there is an introductory circuit breaker, an electric meter, one or several RCDs (depending on the number of groups of internal consumers). There are also circuit breakers responsible for individual groups - the same number as RCDs.

It is the automation that is responsible for protecting the wiring from short circuit and current leakage, which can lead to electric shock. There are rules for calculating the choice of protective devices according to their characteristics, and it is better to leave this choice to a professional.

But it's worth knowing that in most cases the rules are as follows. The power consumption should not exceed 5.5 kW, the general input automatic machine is single-phase, 25 A, type C.

The machines are installed according to separate groups of consumers (selected according to the wire cross-section). A 16A machine must be installed on a 1.5 mm cable (lighting). For a 2.5 mm cable - 20A.

There are separate rules for the selection of RCDs. The main one is that the current limitation for an RCD should be an order of magnitude less than for an automatic machine.

That is, a 16 A machine is equipped with a 20A RCD, and so on. A three-phase input for wiring in a wooden house is very rarely used.

Thanks to the latest options for the distribution of electrics in the room, it is the hidden wiring in a wooden house that has become an alternative, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with the PUE.

To start reproducing latent electricity, it is important to be as prepared as possible, as there are new, but very definite risks. It is important to study a number of standards and GOSTs and only then proceed with the installation of the current method for laying electricity.

Benefits of hidden wiring in wooden houses

Everyone is familiar with the design firsthand, and if it is violated by a banal electrical wiring, it will be obvious. Let's consider a number of advantageous features:

Hidden wiring in a wooden house is installed not only according to regulatory requirements, but also taking into account aesthetic considerations.

Some rules that must be used

As we said, disregard for the rules when working with electrical networks has a dangerous outcome.

Important! Compliance with state standards in relation to the establishment of electrical wiring in a wooden house is a chance for the successful operation of electrical appliances.

We are for safety! So that there are no problems after the installation is completed, it is important to carry out all work exclusively according to the instructions of the diagram. Such a scheme can be drawn up independently or found on the Internet, choosing according to the conditions for building a house. This is the only way to guarantee safety.

We exclude fire! Try to lay electrical wiring in places where there is no possibility of wood ignition, in the event of a short circuit or overcurrent breakdown. Usually installation is carried out on non-combustible materials, for example, in partitions.

We keep the interior of the house! To make the branching of the wires invisible, they should be done in baseboards, door frames or near windows, placing them in special wooden boxes. You can also make an electrical network in special pipes with corrugated insulation, you can also put an asbestos gasket in it. It protects the insulation from heavy wiring.

Such a connection of wiring in a wooden one is prohibited.

Free access accounting! Despite the preservation of the design solutions of the living space, it is important at any time to quickly get to the boxes where all the conductors are hidden. It happens that you have to fix some breakdowns, and demolishing half the wall for this will cost you a lot.

Concealed wiring insulated in wood

How should hidden wiring enter a wooden house?

Many would-be electricians try to use the most primitive and lightweight ways to connect their wooden housing to the general electrical network. However, this issue has its own nuances. We propose to consider them.

Do not under any circumstances be guided by the old methods of the electrical factory in the house. It is likely that such options have not met the requirements for a long time.
It is not recommended to place conductors on ceramic heads attached to the street wall of a wooden house, as they say - this is a time bomb! Sooner or later, you will be faced with a fire problem.
Do not install the electrical network through a wooden attic. In conditions of dampness and an unheated under-roof space, the insulation layer is often broken, as a result of which there is a risk of a short circuit.
Use approved wiring methods. One of the best is the air method. But its disadvantage is that for implementation it is necessary to involve professional electricians.
Underground wiring is reliable and durable. These qualities are due to the fact that the wires are completely hidden and are not exposed to atmospheric phenomena or mechanical influences carried out by the human factor.

Important! The difficulty of laying hidden wiring in a home is proven by the implementation of laborious tasks.

Such wiring is prohibited.

Remember that more than one centimeter of the electrical cable should not come into contact with wood walls or other ceilings, therefore, steel or copper pipes are a prerequisite for wiring in wooden housing.

prokommunikacii.ru

Installation of hidden wiring in a wooden house according to PES: cable laying with step-by-step instructions

Many owners of wooden buildings were able to make sure that they have a lot of advantages over brick and other structures. Despite this, wooden buildings also have a number of disadvantages, among which the rapid combustion should be especially emphasized.

Often, such fires do not happen because of trivial reasons in the form of careless handling of fireplaces, stoves and other heating devices, but because of the incorrect location of the electrical wiring and its previously incorrect installation option.

Wiring: How It Should Not Be Routed

The rules for the installation of electrical installations or PUE are the bible of every electrician and it is in them that it is indicated exactly how it is necessary to mount the electrical wiring. If you follow these rules, the operation of the house will become as safe as possible, and the installation itself will be reliable and durable.

According to the PUE, cable laying on wooden structures of a residential building and especially cladding with flammable materials is strictly prohibited. It would be a big mistake if you trust the high-quality winding of the wiring, since the design of any cable provides for a huge variety of different processes that, in principle, cannot be predicted.

These include:

Deformation of the wiring at the micro level.
Temperature drops.
Increase and decrease of air humidity.
Potential for dust accumulation.

Sometimes when the electrical wiring in a wooden house is stretched parallel to each other, especially in the absence of protection from the base and when the voltage rises in the electrical network, a fire may occur.

Again, as the rule says, namely paragraph 7.1.38 of the PUE, the installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house cannot be carried out on top of wooden structures. It is also forbidden to place cables in plastic boxes and corrugations.

Why can't plastic components be installed? Because because of them, dangerous situations can arise due to sabotage by rodents and the accumulation of wood dust, which is extremely flammable.

It is important to note that if hidden wiring catches fire, even if hidden in a corrugation, the increased temperature will necessarily be transmitted to the walls, since any corrugated product is not able to prevent high temperatures.

In this regard, some builders are interested in why corrugation is needed then and what is its meaning? In fact, corrugated structures are necessary, since their purpose is to withstand a short circuit and without burning out at the time that is necessary for self-attenuation.

If a full-fledged action is necessary, it is necessary to use steel components, which just recommend these very rules.

How to lay the wiring correctly

Today, every electrician, if asked, can answer that there are many ways to install electrical wiring, but if the electrical installation is in accordance with the PUE, there are only a few of them. The most important thing to focus on is fire safety requirements, and it does not matter whether it is design or installation.

If we consider the installation of wiring in a building made of rounded logs, you can see that it passes exclusively through non-flammable channels. If a fire occurs, then it is immediately extinguished in the box itself.

The main rule is not to strive and prioritize exceptional design and visual beauty! If all this is not omitted, then such beauty can be lost and, in addition, suffer yourself.

It is best to hide metal pipes and steel boxes in a wooden house when laying wires, which can be hidden in numerous voids. If, however, lay cables in corrugation and junction boxes, exclusively non-combustible materials, then it is necessary to prepare in advance for installation special gaskets in the form of:

Plasters.
Gypsum.
Concrete.

The choice of the thickness of these gaskets should be selected individually, depending on the characteristics of a particular cable.

If you follow the rules for electrical installations, then the most reliable installation is in boxes and pipes made of steel or copper. For example, copper pipes, if necessary, can be bent at the required angle independently and without unnecessary effort, and this is a significant advantage with a branched power supply scheme.

If, when laying a cable in a wooden house according to the PUE, steel pipes are used, then it is recommended to invite qualified workers for their installation, since working with steel is much more difficult, especially if replacement is carried out in parts.

Again, cutting the sharp edges on the boxes also requires skill, and if this is not done, the wiring can be severely damaged.

Where to start

Without PUE, it is impossible to take literally a single step in any actions that relate to electrical wiring, including when selecting and marking a wiring line.

When marking, it is advisable to try to keep the possible number with bends and turns as small as possible, and in places where the installation of electrical wiring is possible, but complicated by complex architectural solutions, it is strictly necessary to use junction boxes.

The PUE rules categorically prohibit installing junction boxes in hard-to-reach places. They must have absolutely free access, which may be needed in unforeseen situations.

In order not to damage the structure of the house, steel or copper pipes should be positioned with the necessary calculation. Depending on the wiring, the required thickness of the tubes and their cross-section are selected, since the cable itself, according to the rules, can occupy up to 40% of the internal space and, if necessary, can be easily pulled through the pipe cavity.

If it is customary to lay not one wire, but 2 or 3, then the pipe should be selected with a larger diameter, since the rules remain the same - up to 40%.

You should also calculate the insulation resistance and this is done before the wiring begins. This is necessary in order to:

To be able to determine if the wire meets the requirements.
Find out possible damage to the insulation during transportation and storage.
To comply with all the same rules with regards to the preparatory stage.

How to choose wiring

When the stage has come to an end, which includes the marking of nodes and the development of circuits, it is necessary to choose the wire itself, which will have to be used for laying. Wooden structures should choose wires of the following markings:

VVGng-PLS.
VVGng (A).
VVGngLS.
VVGng-P (A).

VVGng (A) or VVGng-P (A) wires have solid copper construction and double insulation. The inner layer is made strictly of non-combustible PVC and, most importantly, each core is protected separately and has its own color, which greatly facilitates the installation of all types of sockets, lighting devices, switches, etc. The second type of insulation is made in the form of composite plastic and wraps around the wire from the outside. It can be used in a wide variety of places with temperatures ranging from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.

As for the cables marked VVGng LS, VVGng-P LS, they basically do not differ in their parameters. The only distinctive feature is that when heated, they do not release harmful substances.

And finally, NYM brand electrical wire. This cable has 3 layers of insulation, and it is manufactured in accordance with GOST 22483. The insulation of this cable consists of:

Each vein is protected by its own layer.
All strands in the bundle are re-insulated.
After that, insulation takes place in the form of enclosing the entire structure in a PVC sheath.

How to choose locations for switches and sockets

When the places where it is planned to mount the sockets with switches are determined, first you should drill the sockets with special nozzles and a drill. It is necessary to install metal boxes in these nests, which are mounted according to the same rules as any other soldering analogs.

It is extremely important to provide grounding during installation. If the continuity of the circuit is achieved when pulling the wire, then the ground can be installed through the distribution board.

The device itself for fixing metal boxes to pipes is based on welding and brazing. There are, of course, other possibilities, but in wooden buildings this method has maximum reliability:

The contacts achieve maximum strength by soldering and welding.
Protection against environmental influences in the form of corrosion.
Such fasteners are able to withstand mechanical stress from the outside.

Depending on which pipes are used, a decision is made to connect to the box. For example, when working with copper pipes, all edges in the box are flared, and with steel analogs, the connection is made using nuts. To do this, you first need to cut a thread at the end of the pipes.

All nuts must be processed, since both the quality of installation and their further operation depend on this. When choosing boxes for installing switches with sockets, both distribution and technological, it is necessary to make sure that they comply with the requirements of the IP -54 class. Only under this condition can we be guaranteed to get the maximum confidence that neither moisture nor dust penetrates the box during operation.

The last step: testing the wiring

When all installation work is completed, boxes and pipes are installed, check the grounding device. This is necessary in order to determine how reliably all elements of the common circuit are fixed.

If the check showed that all the requirements of the PUE were met in absolute accuracy, you can start pulling the electric wire.

It is extremely important to leave a tolerance when pulling the wiring and fixing in the boxes, since sometimes the connection system can change, and if there is no stock of length, then the section of the circuit will have to be electrified again.

If the material of the erected building is wood, then, according to the rules of the PUE, it is allowed to use cables with only 3 or 5 cores. Grounding is also mandatory. If the electrical wiring network is not equipped with grounding, the object for delivery is considered unprepared.

Summing up, we can add that exactly how the entire path of electrical wiring will be laid, of course, is decided by the customer. Of course, the factors of shrinkage of a wooden house and the flammability of the material should be taken into account. As for the builders, in fact they don't care what they tell them to do. Only the construction customer should decide and follow the PUE or design and aesthetics, this is his right.

Video: hidden wiring in a wooden house

derevostroika.ru

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house: step-by-step instructions, PUE rules, diagrams, hidden and open wiring + photos and videos

A wooden house pleases its residents with ease and indescribable comfort. But wood, with all its advantages, is a combustible material that requires increased attention from the point of view of fire safety. But since the need to equip a house with electricity is not discussed today, before starting work, you need to carefully read the rules for installing electrical equipment (PUE) and the provisions of GOSTs. There are no particular difficulties in observing these rules, but you need to know about them.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

Codes of rules PUE and SNiP are developed by experts in the field of safety. This is not a whim of a cabinet official, but a list of necessary norms, the observance of which brings the level of "carelessness" as close as possible to the desired one. We can say that life itself writes these dry chapters, behind which sometimes human tragedies are hidden.

The main cause of fires in wooden buildings is a short circuit in electrical wiring.

The statistics on fires, unfortunately, leave no doubt that timber construction is always at the forefront of fire risk. However, if you remember that for hundreds (and maybe thousands) of years our ancestors lived in wooden log cabins, there is hope that everything is possible, you just need to correctly deal with the wiring. After all, it is she who, in the overwhelming majority of cases, becomes the cause of the fire.

The main requirements contained in the PUE and GOSTs are as follows:

The calculation of the posting should be made with a margin of up to 30%. This primarily concerns the selection of the cross-sectional area of the wires, since the degree of heating of the insulation and the likelihood of a short circuit during operation depend on this. To cover the whole picture of electrification as a whole, it is necessary to prepare a working project with a detailed diagram and specification of the wiring of electricity, and upon completion of the work, pass certification and obtain a wiring passport.
The quality of the connections should not allow the slightest possibility of electric shock to the inhabitants of the house.
Heating and burning the cables is unacceptable, as this will most likely result in the entire house on fire. The possibility of short circuits must be completely ruled out.

The PUE welcomes the installation of lighting in wooden houses using 12 volt lamps and LED equipment, which is considered the safest today. For example, in mines and mines, especially in those where there is accumulation of methane gas, and an explosion can occur from one single spark, all equipment is powered by a current of 12 volts. The same is done in cars.

A significant obstacle that makes it difficult to independently carry out work on the installation of wiring in a wooden house is the lack of a single document regulating installation. The main regulations are scattered in the normative documents of GOST and SNiP and are not systematized. Therefore, when drawing up a project, it is better to contact a specialized organization that has a license for this type of activity.

Preparation of a power supply project

The design documentation must include all the details of the future wiring. It displays the location of lighting devices, sockets, junction boxes, switchboard. The specification details the brands of conductors used for wiring, their total number and ratings. All electrical devices involved in the power supply scheme, such as an electric meter, RAM, automatic machines and others, are calculated in advance for compliance with the loads that are expected during operation.

The power supply project usually includes a wiring diagram indicating the markings of the cables used, the type of devices installed and the estimated load on each of them.

Having a project is a sign of a civilized and responsible approach to business.

You can, of course, run cables without it, but:

practice shows that installation of wiring without a preliminary project, as a rule, costs 10-15% more. In this case, errors are possible, the correction of which also costs money;
in the event of a fire, the insurance company will require a certified electrification plan for the home. In its absence, the damage coverage will be postponed for an indefinite period (until the circumstances are clarified). It's good if only one house burns down. In densely populated areas, the fire can spread to neighboring areas. The culprit will be the owner of the wooden structure from where the fire began to spread. The only way to prove your innocence is to present a certified plan for the electrification of the premises;
the presence of the plan significantly reduces the cost of preventive and repair work of electrical wiring in the course of further operation, and also helps to quickly find and eliminate the source of damage to the power supply.

A full-fledged project consists not only of drawings, but also of a detailed description of all elements and equipment. It usually includes:

A graphic representation of all levels of the living space, on which, using the adopted conventions, the locations of the routes of cables, consumers and electrical equipment are reflected.
Single-line power supply diagrams.
Detailed calculations of ground loops.
Cross-sectional area of conductors.
List of switching devices.
Maximum current and voltage of the meter.
Calculations of the power of electrical receivers.

In addition, the project must provide for outdoor lighting of the site and the connection of yard buildings - a bathhouse, a garage, utility rooms.

The electrical wiring project of a private house must contain a calculation and a diagram of the device for outdoor lighting of the adjacent territory

Design documentation is developed in several stages:

Formulation of the problem. The power supply is planned in accordance with the terms of reference and conditions. The customer expresses his vision to the performer orally or using a schematic image. As one of the options, a design project can serve as an order form.
Development and approval of the project. If necessary, the project is defended and approved by representatives of the auditing organizations. The parameters of electrification and their compliance with regulatory documents are being clarified.
Project implementation support. Sometimes it is also called installation supervision, during which the designer exercises direct control over the execution of work.

Calculation of cable cross-section

Calculation of conductors consists in determining two parameters:

In conditions of increased requirements for fire safety, the rules prescribe the use of three-core wires without fail. This measure is dictated by the need for protective grounding of the entire power supply system.

In private houses, the wiring should be carried out with a three-core cable: one core is a phase wire, the second is a zero, the third is grounding

Table: selection of cable cross-section depending on current strength

Calculation of electrical devices

Electrical installation devices - sockets, switches and junction boxes are selected based on the technological conditions of their operation.

Selection of the lead-in cable and circuit breaker at the input

Of great importance in ensuring the safety of electrical wiring is the correct entry of an electrician into the house. When choosing a cable and a circuit breaker, it should be borne in mind that in the future, the load on it will only increase - the number of household appliances and units that are used at home increases over time.

The cross-section of the input cable must be calculated for the future: over time, the number of electrical devices used and their total power consumption will only increase

The task of the electrician is to select a cable that will allow the use of electrical appliances without the risk of overvoltage in the lead-in conductor. The optimal placement of the input circuit breaker (AB) is considered to be its location in front of the meter. Its task is to turn off the internal network in case of excessive current consumption, for example, in case of a short circuit. But at the same time, it should not shut down at the maximum permissible load. In order to calculate the nominal value of the input AB independently, use the formula Inom = P / U x cos (f), where Inom is the rated current, P is the total power of all devices, cos (f) is the power factor, which for most electrical appliances can be considered equal unit. 10% is added to the obtained value of the rated current and a circuit breaker is selected relative to it. Most often, in a private house, AB is enough with a nominal value of 25 A.

The input circuit breaker must withstand the maximum load from all switched on electrical appliances, but open the network when too high currents appear, for example, from a short circuit

Three-phase power supply of a private house

The vast majority of timber houses use single phase power. But if it is planned to use units of increased power - for example, powerful electric welding or woodworking machines - a three-phase current supply is required. In this case, to calculate the installation devices, you must contact a specialist. Calculations are made according to more complex formulas and in relation to a specific situation.

Do-it-yourself wiring installation in a wooden house

If you have an agreed project, completed in accordance with all legislative norms, you can carry out the installation of electrical wiring yourself. To do this, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials, as well as familiarize yourself with the safety rules. Let's consider the main stages of house electrification.

Switchboard installation

The switchboard is the main power control point. It is a cabinet, inside of which there are devices for monitoring and metering the consumed current. It can be metallic or made of dielectric plastic.

The switchboard contains control and monitoring devices for the electrical network: meters, circuit breakers, residual current devices, etc.

The shield is mounted in a convenient place for use, at a height of 1.5 to 1.7 m from the floor surface. Most often, it is located near the front door in such a way that when leaving you can turn off the electricity, and when you return, turn it on. An input cable is connected from the power lines to the switchboard, then the electricity is distributed throughout the house. The following is installed inside the shield:

electricity consumption meter;
circuit breakers on a DIN rail;
RCD (residual current device);
busbars for grounding and zero loop.

An introductory circuit breaker can also be located here, but it is also practiced to locate it outside the house at the point where the overhead line is connected to the home network. This option makes sense, since the risk of overloading the lead-in cable is significantly reduced.

The installation of the switchboard is done first. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of automation using proven and reliable brands of devices from well-known manufacturers.

Video: overview of a switchboard for a private house

Cable entry inside the room

There are two options for entering the cable from the power line into the house.

Air method, which uses a self-supporting insulated conductor.
Underground method, when the cable is brought into the room from underground.

The first option is more common due to its speed and economy. The second is more expensive, but has a number of advantages, such as a long service life and independence from atmospheric disasters.

Underground cable entry method is more time consuming, but more reliable and durable

In any case, the rules prescribe to lead the cable into a wooden house through a metal thick-walled (from 2.5 to 3.3 mm) pipe. Its interior must be painted or galvanized, and the installation is carried out at an angle of 3-5 ° to the horizontal plane so that the resulting condensate can flow out unhindered (GOST R 50571.15-97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2).

The cable is led into a wooden house through a metal sleeve, which is positioned at an angle to organize the drainage of condensate

Installation of a metal sleeve and cable entry is always carried out from the outside of the wall. The installer must be suitably qualified and authorized. Most often, this work is performed by employees of the energy supplying organization.

Video: cable entry into the house and connection to the switchboard

Installation of switches and sockets

In wooden buildings, there are certain nuances in the installation of switches and sockets.

The rest of the installation of sockets and switches is no different from installation in a stone building.

First, the wall is marked. It is best to use a building level or laser level for this.
Further, socket boxes or protective pads are installed.
The base of the device is mounted on them.
After connection, the outer casing is attached to the wires.

All of the above applies to junction boxes as well. It is recommended to design wiring in such a way as to keep their number to a minimum.

Wire connection

Based on the same prerequisites for an increased fire hazard, it is recommended to connect conductors in wooden buildings using factory terminal blocks. Twisting is allowed only in case of additional soldering of current-carrying conductors and using plastic caps.

Wire connections must be made using special terminal blocks, twists can only be used as a last resort

Grounding and installation of RCD

Residual current device (RCD) is designed to protect humans (and pets) from electric shock in case of possible leakage on damaged insulation or metal casing of household appliances.

In the wiring diagram in a private house, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an RCD device that protects against electric shock in case of accidental leaks

The device is capable of detecting minimal leakage and responding to it by opening the circuit. The sensitivity level depends on the brand of the device. The choice is made according to the main parameter - the leakage current, which is expressed in milliamperes. If the RCD is included in the protection circuit of the whole house, a leakage current of 30 mA is sufficient. If the device is intended to protect individual rooms, for example, a bathroom or a bathroom, select a higher sensitivity of 10 mA. The RCD is installed in the switchboard. The connection diagram provides for the location of the RCD in front of the circuit breakers.

The residual current device for the common circuit of the house is selected for a leakage current of 30 mA

Video: connecting a circuit breaker and an RCD

The same tasks are assigned to the grounding of all electrical installations inside the house. Separately, we can say about the grounding device. In order for the system to drain stray currents to work properly, you need to adhere to the recommendations for self-arrangement of the grounding strip.

The ground loop consists of three metal plates fixed to the reinforcement pins

To do this, you will need three-meter-long metal reinforcement and three-meter pieces of corners.

Do not forget about the seasonal expansion and contraction of the metal under the influence of changing air temperatures.

To prevent the grounding bus from breaking off, a "compensation hump" is made in it, which is designed to absorb thermal changes.

Methods for open placement of wiring

In practice, three types of external wiring are used in wooden houses:

The choice depends entirely on the aesthetic inclinations of the inhabitants of the house. All the necessary materials are on sale to realize your preferences in terms of design solutions.

Video: outdoor wiring in a cable channel in a wooden house

Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house

If, for some reason, the customer is not satisfied with the external arrangement of the wiring in the house, the cables are bred in a hidden way. In a wooden building, this is a rather time-consuming and painstaking procedure. Each wire, regardless of its thickness, must be packed in a metal tube. Socket and junction boxes must also be made of metal. The pipes are supposed to be protected from corrosion. To do this, they must be painted from the inside with moisture-resistant enamels, and small holes must be drilled at regular intervals to drain the condensate. For the same purpose, it is necessary to place the pipe at a slope so that moisture droplets can flow out. To avoid damage to the insulation, the ends of the pipes are cleaned from sharp burrs and additionally equipped with plastic tips.

For the device of hidden wiring in a wooden house, cables inside the walls are laid in metal pipes and led out into niches, covered with metal sockets

The big disadvantage of hidden wiring in a wooden structure is the inaccessibility of cables. If any problems arise, it will be very difficult to replace the old cable with a new one. Nevertheless, this type of wiring has its fans. Especially among designers who are primarily concerned with the aesthetic solution of the home.

Video: hidden wiring in a wooden frame

Test wiring

After finishing the installation, the customer needs to invite employees of the electrical laboratory. The purpose of the test is to measure the resistance of the system as a whole, ground resistance and check all automation: RCDs, circuit breakers, current flow meter. If all parameters correspond to the norm, the customer receives a protocol signed by the responsible person. This document is presented to the service company when concluding a contract for the supply of electricity to the facility.

After the end of the work, it is necessary to invite a specialist to check the system and obtain a wiring test report

When performing the wiring installation yourself, it is important to observe personal safety measures. Electric shock can cause irreparable harm to health and cause death. Installation is carried out only when the power supply is disconnected. Commissioning of equipment is carried out in the presence of an authorized representative of the design organization.

tehznatok.com

Installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house. Part 2

Welcome to the website http://zametkielectrika.ru.

In the last article (part 1) I told you about the mistakes that electricians make when performing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, as well as what the consequences are.

Today I am writing a continuation of the article for you.

How to carry out the installation correctly?

I will say right away that the primary basis should only be the requirements of electrical safety and fire safety. The cost of electrical work and interior design goes into the background.

Laying methods

There are 2 ways of laying cables and wires in voids and ceilings made of wood, i.e. from combustible material.

1. In a metal pipe

The first method, I think the safest and most reliable - is the laying of cables and wires in metal pipes or metal boxes.

But this method of laying is quite laborious and laborious. But let's talk about this below.

2. In a plastic PVC corrugation, a box (channel) and a metal hose

The plastic surface of the corrugation and boxes refers to non-combustible materials and is designated by the index "ng", i.e. does not spread or sustain combustion. Read about this in the wiring requirements article.

I told you about the laying of wires and cables in a metal hose, PVC corrugation and a duct (channel) in the first part of the article. But here I want to add the following.

Such a gasket is allowed to be made under one IMPORTANT condition:

Throughout the entire length and on all sides, it is necessary to put a non-combustible material between the metal hose (PVC corrugation and the box) and wooden surfaces.

Fireproof materials can be: alabaster, plaster, cement, concrete, etc.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house using metal pipes

As I said above, the installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house using metal pipes is laborious and labor-intensive. And besides, such electrical installation can only be performed by trained and qualified specialists.

Where to begin?

The very first thing to start with the installation is the materials. And I advise you to use copper pipes.

Why copper pipes?

Because copper pipes are easily deformed (bend easily). Therefore, when using copper pipes, an additional professional tool does not need to be purchased.

A few more words I want to tell you that the installation of hidden electrical wiring must be carried out in such a way as to ensure the interchangeability of wires and cables. What can not be said about metal boxes, tk. when pulling wires and cables in this case, we will damage their insulation on sharp corners of bends.

1. Route marking

If you have a project, then this is the task of the designers. But if you do the installation yourself (on your own), then the marking of the wiring route must be chosen the most optimal, i.e. with minimal damage to wooden surfaces, because chipping and drilling in wood structures weakens them.

2. Installation of junction boxes

Here I want to say that only metal junction boxes need to be installed and in accessible places for inspection and further maintenance and operation.

It is forbidden to hide and hide the junction boxes.

3. Diameter of metal pipe

Also an important point.

How to choose the right metal pipe diameter?

The diameter of the metal pipe is very easy to select. It is necessary that wires and cables enter the pipe freely, while filling 40% of the pipe cross-section.

How to choose the wall thickness of a metal pipe?

The wall thickness of a metal pipe for hidden wiring is selected based on the cross-section of the wire or cable cores laid in this pipe.

In order not to burden you with unnecessary figures, I will give the data in the form of a table.

4. Installation of mounting boxes (socket boxes)

To choose the right location for the socket outlets, read the article Installing sockets and switches.

It is necessary to use only metal junction boxes for sockets and switches, which we attach to the already connected metal pipe.

If you used steel pipes, then we connect the pipe and the junction box with a nut. You can also use welding for the connection, which is, in my opinion, a more reliable connection. Junction boxes are mounted in the same way.

It looks like this.

If you used copper pipes during installation, then the end of the copper pipe is expanded in the installation box.

5. Grounding of metal pipes

The installation of a metal pipe must be carried out without pipe breaks in junction and junction boxes. In this case, the PE grounding conductor is connected to the pipe in the ASU switchboard.

If the pipe has breaks, then at the break point you need to ensure the connection of the pipe to the PE grounding conductor.

6. Electrical measurements

The next installation point is electrical measurements. It is necessary to measure the presence of a circuit between earthing switches and grounded installations and elements of a grounded installation, i.e. metal connection.

I will tell you how to do this next time. Subscribe to the site news.

This measurement gives us the assurance that all metal junction and back boxes are continuous and connected to the common PE bus in the home switchgear.

7. Laying wires and cables

Wiring is carried out with three-core or five-core wires, i.e. on the TN-C-S or TN-S system. You can choose the brand of wires and cables according to my recommendations. Follow the link and study the material.

For information - the PUNP wire is prohibited for use.

Plastic sleeves are put on the ends of metal pipes so as not to damage the wires and cables during laying.

Then "steel" is pulled into a metal pipe, with the help of which wires and cables are subsequently pulled to the junction boxes.

Upon completion of work on laying wires and cables of hidden electrical wiring in metal pipes, it is necessary to measure the insulation resistance to make sure that the insulation was not damaged during installation.

8. Connection

The last stage of installing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is cutting and connecting wires and cables to electrical equipment.

9. Completion of work

After completing the installation, you need to contact the employees of the electrical laboratory, who will carry out the following acceptance measurements and tests:

After all the measurements, the electrical laboratory specialists will write a conclusion on the condition and serviceability of your newly installed hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house.

In the next article, read about open wiring in a wooden house.

P.S. This concludes the article. I think I have demonstrated to you in detail and clearly how to carry out the installation correctly. Ask your questions in the comments.

zametkielectrika.ru

If you look at the statistics of fires in our country, then the question of how to properly conduct wiring in a wooden house is quite relevant. After all, most of all fires in wooden houses occur due to a short circuit, and if you want to protect your house from this, then the most close attention should be paid to the issues of power supply.

Your utility company is responsible for connecting your home to the electrical network. After agreeing on all the necessary papers, they must install the meter and connect it to the mains.
They must do this with a flexible wire in isolation. And to avoid problems in the future, we advise you to check that the insulation on this wire is not damaged.
The meter is usually installed outdoors. The distribution box is usually located inside the house.
To connect it, we need to punch a hole in the wall of the house, and in accordance with paragraph 2.1.38 "Electrical Installation Rules" (PUE), protect it from all sides with fireproof material. Usually a steel pipe is used for this, followed by plastering.
The input itself, according to 2.1.79 PUE, must be located at a height of at least 2.75 meters from the earth's surface. In this case, the distance from insulators or wires to the protruding part of the roof must be at least 200 mm.
It is also quite important to foresee, and the rules stipulate this, the impossibility of water accumulation in the pipe, as well as its penetration into the house through the power supply inputs.

Switchboard installation

Internal wiring in a wooden house starts from the switchboard. It should be installed in a dry, flood-free location.
At the same time, the rules of the PUE regulate that a bathroom, shower or toilet cannot be located above the installation site of your switchboard.
The shield itself must be made on a fireproof base and locked with a key. On the market, you will now find many of these boxes for a distribution board of a wide variety of sizes.

Note! Within a radius of half a meter from the switchboard, there should be no heating equipment, no water supply or drainage systems, or gas supply systems, and the ventilation ducts passing through this room should not have branches.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house

Hidden wiring

You can lay electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands in an open and hidden way. The hidden method, which is almost universally used in brick and concrete houses, is not so in demand in the case of wooden houses.
After all, it is somewhat more difficult to implement it here, and most importantly, the price of the issue is much higher. In the list below you can see options for laying electrical wiring in a hidden way in accordance with the rules of the PUE, in compliance with fire safety conditions.
So:

If we use a conventional wire in a sheath made of combustible material (not fire-resistant corrugation), then it must be laid on a lining made of non-combustible materials. In the future, the wire must be plastered with a continuous layer at least 1 cm thick.
If you use an ordinary wire in a sheath made of a flame-retardant material (fire-resistant corrugation), then it will be enough for you to put a non-combustible material under the wire along the entire length.
If you use a wire sheathed with a non-combustible material (metal corrugation), then you can lay the wire directly on the structural elements.
In boxes made of non-combustible materials (steel boxes), even wires can be used directly on structural elements without additional protection.
In the case of using boxes made of non-combustible materials (plastic boxes), any wires can be used, but under the box there must be a gasket made of non-combustible material, and the box itself must later be plastered with a layer at least 1 cm thick.

How to make safe wiring in a wooden house?

The most popular material for the construction of country houses has been and remains wood. Which, with all its many advantages, has one serious drawback - is, as firefighters say, "combustible material."

Fire statistics show that more than half of all fires in wooden houses are caused by faulty electrical wiring. In practice, the main cause of malfunctions and subsequent short circuits is most often the violation of the integrity of the insulation of the wires in the wiring. As a rule, this happens either due to an increased load on the wires or due to mechanical damage to the insulation.

Why is this happening?

Most of the home-grown "jack of all trades", in order to save time, effort and money, pave hidden wiring on wooden bases, boldly hiding it behind the ceiling cladding, under the wall cladding, behind the skirting boards, in the voids of the ceilings and explaining to the "unreasonable" client that this is exactly what should be done.

Remember! Install hidden electrical wiring in wooden houses using a corrugated PVC pipe, plastic box IT IS FORBIDDEN!

Why?

In fact, there are several reasons. Below we will consider two of the most typical situations that arise when using electrical wiring in a wooden house.

At first. In the process of laying the cable, an electrician may slightly violate the insulation of the wires, and control electrical measurements of damage may not be recorded.

However, when all the necessary electrical equipment is connected, the wiring begins to function at maximum load. Naturally, such operation, which causes increased heating of the cable or wire, inevitably weakens the insulation, which causes a short circuit in the wiring.

The rather thin walls of plastic pipes and PVC boxes are not able to withstand a short circuit without burning out, therefore, a short circuit, alas, will inevitably entail a fire.

Secondly. Concealed electrical wiring using a corrugated pipe or PVC box, laid in the voids of wooden walls, ceilings and floors, is an object of increased attention from rodents, which are not uncommon in wooden houses, who want to "taste" the details of your communications.

For mice, and even more so for rats, it will not be difficult to gnaw through a rather thin pipe or PVC box, exposing the wire cores, the consequence of which is a short circuit in the hidden electrical wiring.

The situation is aggravated by the fact that over time, a huge amount of wood dust accumulates in the voids of the walls and floors of wooden houses. As a result, the slightest spark leads to a fire. The worst thing is that it is almost impossible to immediately determine the place of fire and eliminate it, since the combustion process that takes place BEYOND the walls and ceilings is hidden from view. Therefore, even flooding everything around with water and foam, you still cannot quickly extinguish the fire.

Can these problems be avoided?

At first glance, if you lay electrical wiring in a wooden house in accordance with the requirements of SNiP, PES, there will be no problems. However, in reality, not everything is so simple. First of all, because the requirements of the PUE regarding the installation of electrical wiring in wooden buildings are extremely stringent. By the way, it is the strictness of the standards that most often forces the "home-grown" electricians to break them.

Nevertheless, laying fire-safe electrical wiring in a wooden house is a feasible event, while you yourself can choose which wiring to use.

The table below shows the types of electrical wiring and methods of laying wires and cables in accordance with fire safety conditions.

Let's take a closer look at all types of fireproof electrical wiring in a wooden house.

Hidden wiring

Although most competent sources on this topic do not recommend installation of hidden wiring on combustible, in our case, wooden structures, however, with subject to compliance with fire safety requirements and the absence of financial problems, such a posting can be done.

Below we give a regulatory document (PES-6) in its part concerning the laying of hidden wiring inside the premises.

In fact, methods of fireproof laying of hidden wiring in a wooden house just two.

One of them is the laying of hidden electrical wiring using metal sleeve (pipes)... The main advantage of this method is that in the event of a fire metal pipe will protect adjacent structures from fire.

When using this wiring method, you will need to comply with several stringent conditions: to protect the pipe walls from corrosion, it must be painted or galvanized from the inside. To protect the cable insulation from sharp edges resulting from cutting pipes, special plastic plugs must be put on their ends. Plus, for such wiring, you will need to drill grooves in the thickness of the walls in the form of channels, into which, in fact, metal pipes are then laid.

The best option for this wiring option is copper pipes. Due to the fact that copper pipes bend quite easily and they can be laid without special tools, wiring is at least somewhat simplified. However, for simplicity and convenience you will have to pay a high, literally, price - copper pipes are very expensive.

In accordance with GOST R 50571.15-97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2, pipes should be laid with a slight slope to ensure the possibility of condensate outflow. But be prepared for the fact that in practice it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to check the quality of the installation of metal pipes, the same angle of inclination or the tightness of the joints.

The second way to lay hidden electrical wiring in a wooden structure is on a layer of plaster (outline) at least 10 mm thick on all sides.

Way seems to be simple, but when using it, the question arises: how to comply with PES standards regarding the replaceability of electrical wiring. Alternatively, you can embed it in plaster, having previously packed it in a corrugation. Formally, of course, the PES standards will be met, but in fact it will be impossible to pull the hard wire.

Moreover, no specialist can predict how plaster will behave on wooden surfaces after a while. Will the cracks go? Will it start to fall off? Not to mention, a thick layer of grout will look odd to say the least on beautiful wood surfaces.

It should be emphasized that both of these methods are quite costly in terms of money, effort, and time. Plus, they require planning of electrical wiring even at the construction stage.

Open wiring

- Wiring in electrical corrugated pipe

This method involves pulling the cable into a flexible corrugated pipe made of special plastic that does not support combustion. One pipe can accommodate two or more cables.

The disadvantages of this method include, first of all, its unaestheticness - you are unlikely to like the prospect of "decorating" your house with several rows of corrugated pipes. Taking into account the number of electrical appliances in a modern house, there may be 5-7 such rows! In addition, since a corrugated pipe with a cable stretched into it is almost impossible to lay straight, "along the line", all its bends and sagging will also not add charm to your home.

Another disadvantage: the corrugated pipe is an excellent "dust collector", from which it is very difficult to remove accumulated dust from it.

- Wiring in electrical boxes (cable ducts)

In this method, the cable is laid in a non-combustible plastic and closed with snap-on covers.

The main problem when using this method is associated with the inevitable shrinkage of a wooden house. On average, it is 1 cm per 1 m of house height, and these values are given for houses made of high-quality laminated veneer lumber, the shrinkage of which is minimal. In practice, this means that a shrinkage of three centimeters (for a typical two-story house) will squeeze all the boxes, the lids will fly off, the boxes themselves will crack. As a result, the wiring will have to be redone!

Secondly, in order to accurately and evenly install plastic boxes, a certain skill and dexterity will be required. Add to this the problems with fittings - alas, manufacturers offer a rather meager assortment of turns, corners, plugs, joints, without which it is almost impossible to accurately install cable channels.

Another significant drawback of electrical wiring in cable channels is its boring, office look.

The advantages of this method include its low cost, minimal labor costs and the ability to easily make any changes in the future.

- Open cable wiring

Finally, we will consider the most optimal of all methods of laying electrical wiring in a wooden house - wiring with an open cable.

Naturally, when using an unprotected open cable, there is no need to talk about the aesthetics of the room either. Not only does the cable itself in conventional insulation (for example, the most common PUNP) look rather dull, but it will still be necessary to install a gasket of asbestos or metal under it, protruding from all sides by at least 10 cm.

However, there is another way. This is the so-called retro wiring on insulators. Its main advantages are the ability compliance with all necessary safety requirements, a plus, original, extremely popular lately retro style interior design.

You will learn more about installing such wiring in our next article.

The company "Salvador"

In terms of electrical installation, wooden buildings are the most difficult objects. We have prepared for you a set of rules for wiring in a wooden house, where questions regarding the choice of materials and cable laying systems, as well as the installation of installation products, are discussed in detail.

1. Wiring in strict compliance with regulations

The organization of the electrical network in a wooden house is second in complexity only to buildings on a fixed polystyrene foam formwork. Laying on combustible bases is allowed only in an open way or with one hundred percent localization of the conductor inside the protective sheath.

This requirement is not so strict for frame internal partitions with a non-combustible filler. In the most correct version, the passage of the cable through the frame racks is accompanied by a casing of the latter; in practice, most often the conductor is dressed completely in a corrugation or a metal hose, ensuring interchangeability.

Open-pit laying is also a good solution. A number of fittings and installation techniques are provided to make open wiring aesthetically pleasing and even add a touch of color to the interior. In addition to plastic cable channels, it is possible to lay a PV-1 wire with winding on ceramic insulators and use case-based installation fittings of a non-flush type. In cases of hidden laying, non-combustible cable brands are used: VVGng or KGng.

Due to the complexity of the installation, wiring along the walls should be kept to a minimum. But for this you will need to thoroughly think over the layout of the cable lines.

2. Wiring diagram for walls and ceilings

In the most acceptable version of the electrical network around the house, each electrical point is connected in one straight line with a frame floor, a ceiling or a rough ceiling, covered with a suspended or stretch covering. Through the technological cavity, hidden from view, all the main wiring is performed, although more often the lines simply stretch one by one to the group shield. Naturally, the bulk of the sockets and switches should be placed on the inner walls, and on the enclosing ones only if necessary.

A smart solution would be to run the lighting wiring from the switches to the ceiling, and lead the wires for connecting the sockets down to the floor. Due to their low load, the lines of the lighting network can be organized by means of junction boxes that are inaccessible for maintenance. It is enough to bring the power line from the circuit breaker to such a box, and from it, lower the commutation wire to the key and along the power line to each lighting group.

Lines of sockets and general-purpose groups are allowed to be combined into so-called garlands. It is important that no more than two conductors are fixed to each terminal block of the sockets. Otherwise, each socket and group are connected in hidden junction boxes, and lines with a particularly high load from household appliances and heaters follow to the group board without breaking.

It is recommended to cover the loops gathering on the wall near the panel board with a decorative casing. When laying the cables in groups, it is also recommended to separate the base with a non-combustible backing, for example, by cutting drywall.

3. Localization of conductors and forks

For some reason, surface wiring may be unacceptable. In this case, the task becomes many times more complicated, despite the fact that the part of the wiring laid along the walls is only 15-20% of the total length of the lines.

The possibility of hidden laying should be laid even at the stage of preliminary assembly of the log house. According to the plan of internal power supply, technological channels for the cable are made in the walls as they are laid. For this, either electric blowers or core drills are used. The approximate channel width is 30-50 mm.

Outlet holes are drilled in the section of the frame system of the floor or floors. Installation of electrical fittings is possible by the recessed method; for this, the channel is found with a probe and a hole is drilled with a 60-80 mm core drill in the array of timber. The installation boxes for sockets and switches should be made of steel, preferably with a fiberglass insert.

Portions of pipes laid inside the walls must be localized from the environment. A smooth pipe is used for this: metal with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm or steel - from 1.2 mm. These values are approximate, a more accurate calculation requires taking into account the load and voltage on the line, as well as the type and number of conductors inside the sheath.

For branching power lines hidden in the cavities of frame structures, it is recommended to use metal boxes. For indoor installation, protection from wood dust with a degree of at least 3 is desirable, moisture protection is not taken into account. The entry of the sheaths of cable lines should be flared, or equipped with a restraining ring or a nut that does not allow undocking.

4. Protective devices

Electrical installation in a wooden house can be complicated by the peculiarities of the arrangement of group and distribution boards. The difference is observed both in the method of mounting the enclosures and in the selection of protective equipment.

The installation of the housing of the electrical panels must be carried out on a non-combustible base. Therefore, it is recommended to upholster the surface with tin under the central shields with ASU, and when installing group shields, use textolite or fiberglass linings.

It is convenient to connect group shields to the floor and floor by means of a cable channel, in which usually 3-4 lines are laid for each room. It is not recommended to place the shields close to the ceiling or floor.

The circuit breakers are selected according to the permissible continuous current for the cable on the outgoing line, the choice is always made towards a lower rating. Equipment that does not have internal protection against short circuits, as well as lines with a fixed maximum load (ovens, air conditioners) are connected through a circuit breaker with a rating for power consumption and a low response delay in case of overload (characteristics B and A).

In wooden houses, it is customary to lay wiring according to a three-wire circuit, where the protective conductor is not connected to the zero one. For this reason, the installation of differential protection against electric shock can lead to false positives. But a fire-fighting diffautomat, which monitors insulation leaks, will be very useful.

5. Installation of installation products and fittings

At the final stage, the installation of fine electrics is carried out. This is most easily done using non-flush fittings. It is easy enough to screw it to a wooden wall with a pair of self-tapping screws, having previously inserted it into the case and connected the wire cores.

Much more time and effort is spent on installing hidden (recessed) fittings. For a tight fit of the frames, a flat surface is required, so the logs are first grinded with a plane. Next, a hole is made to connect the surface to the hidden channel. It is used as a centering tool for drilling the installation niche with a core cutter.

It is characteristic that the installation boxes can be embedded in the same way as in stone walls - by planting on alabaster. Otherwise, the area must be localized and connected to the cable duct with a non-combustible rigid sleeve.